Glad you printed the enclosure. I'm very happy with mine, too! I have wall mounted the AMS Lite to save a lot of space. Some things to consider for anyone interested in the enclosure: 1. I used PTFE tubes for the connection between the enclosure and the AMS motors. If you do, make sure the tubes do not extend outwards of the enclosure. I made that mistake and had terrible binding issues. They should sit flush with the outside, at least it you wall mount the AMS. 2. The little plates with the numbers on them can be really difficult to press on the enclosure. I chamfered mine a bit which made it much more manageable. 3. Be very careful when moving the desiccant boxes. I had mine open by mistake and spilled dessicant all over the cupboard, nearby board and floor. I am still finding beads over a month later. I wish the designer would have used a sliding instead of a press mechanism for the lid, but as long as your careful, things should be fine.
Hey, these are all great tips! I also have this enclosure setup and wish this video was out a couple weeks ago before I did mine but I managed 🤣 I’m curious about the PTFE tube portion of your comment…would you mind elaborating on that a bit more? Thanks!
Everything fits perfectly together except the lid on the desiccant box. I used a cable management velcro tie and wrapped it from top to bottom on the center which keeps the lid on very well. It also serves as a nice little grab handle to pull the desiccant box out when changing spools!
@@jet_lea I also use PTFE tubes instead of the printed exit guide, it was mentioned in Supergrapher's instructions. "…use a short PTFE tube instead." I used about a 20 mm length and it fits snugly in the exit holes.
The humidity that's being measured is that in the air around the filament. This doesn't mean that the filament is dry though. Since the enclosure isn't heated, the moisture in the filament isn't moving out as readily. I recommend using a filament dryer before installing a roll on the AMS with dessicant, that way you can be assured of low internal moisture within the filament. There are a lot of good videos on the topic of drying filament. This is a great start to making the AMS lite more reliable. Thanks for the vid
Yeah I made a makeshift dryer with a tote that has a lb of dessicated and I put a lava lamp bottom with the light in it for a day. And it stays at about 10% for 2 weeks in there. And it holds like 10 rolls of filament
I mean, it's the same as the full AMS as well. These are dry boxes, just designed to maintain a steady state condition, not get it there in the first place.
Do you want to know what suffering is? I live near the Uruguayan border, and the hygrometer just hit 94% humidity! I’m getting the A1 Mini with AMS today, and I was already going crazy! Great video, I'll definitely give this solution a try!
Color-changing desiccant beads are the thing to get. You can tell when they’re saturated because they change color and they’re “rechargeable”: dry them out in a low temperature oven or microwave on defrost and they’re ready to suck up that moisture again!
Quick word of warning about the indicator type. It seems the chemical they use to make them colour changing are highly toxic. This is according to the CNC Kitchen (IIRC). Just thought people should be aware.
Honestly I've yet to see any of these change color in a way that is obvious. Sure they do EVENTUALLY when they are saturated but if they get to that point they should have been changed long ago. I have ones that are supposed to go from blue to pink but you won't see them pink until like 80% humidity. At the 20-30% I'd want them changed, they just look blue.
if you print this, I'd think about spraying it down with clearcoat (both sides) too. Otherwise, the plastic that you're covering it with is mostly just as porous to humidity as the filament that you're protecting. it slows it, but well, you know. double bag it with the clear coat.
This video just came in perfect timing. My A1 with the AMS lite will be shipped tomorrow and I already was trying to think of a solution. Now I have one. Thanks!
I was very skeptical that I would be able to print every part and that everything will come together. All that I can say that is just beautiful. I just finished completing one side and everything came together very well. I am so pleased that I spend the time and the filament doing this, thank you so much to everyone that contribute.
Just printed this out and installed it for the first half of my AMS lite. I would not have figured it out without this video so thank you so much! Cut the ambient humidity in half. My only regret is that I didn't have any transparent/translucent filament so now I have to open it to check on levels remaining. There's a mod to insert a window but I'll leave that for another time. Thanks again!
Great video and perfect timing! My A1 combo is being delivered today. Not only does it look like this will work well but it I think it makes the whole setup have a better appearance. Also, I was happy to see you tear the desiccant open as I use dry beads. Great video. I will print this!
This is a great video and your delivery is really good. Unlike many videos from the US you don't shout and your relaxed approach makes it extremely easy and pleasant to watch, that alone is refreshing to see and most importantly hear (without ear plugs lol) Keep up the good work and well done on this excellent video.
You got me to buy the a1 mini and now I just ordered the P1s! I’m going broke! 😂 Here’s what happened. I kept regretting not buying the AMS lite. And now I didn’t want to pay $250 for it plus it takes up too much space but manually changing the colors mid print was driving me crazy loading unloading loading… So I gave in and bought the P1S combo! It’ll be here Tuesday. 😂
@@TheFutureLooksGrimm You’re not alone. I started with a P1S, then upgraded to a P1S, then got an AMS, then got another AMS and an A1 Mini with AMS Lite, and I’ve spent close to $1000 on filament. This hobby just sucks you in!!!
Just in case anyone asks the maximum length of Bambu PTFE you can use is 1.2 metres , its buried but detailed in the Bambu Wiki for the AMS lite , any longer than that will damage the AMS lite unit.
Watched the video all the way through and assumed you were a popular channel, the production quality is so good! You deserve MUCH more subscribers man, keep it up!
I kind of regret not ordering an AMS Lite with my A1. I declined as it's 70% humidity here in the autumn. Thought that the AMS with the P1S would be fine. Only it was very quickly obvious that the AMS is really nice to have with these printers, if you're taking orders then they'll pay for themselves in a couple of months.
Now I'm kicking myself in the butt even more because I didn't buy an AMS with my A1 Mini. Biut, I want to congratulate you on your PCBway sponsorship. It's cool that you got a sponsor so early in your TH-cam career.
The amount of usage I get out of my ams is probably 5% of my prints with my mini. Granted I only print functional items. Unless you're printing fun landfill items you're best off with just saving the money for filament.
@@Targetf I run my AMS as a spool emptier with all my nearly empty spools for prints I don't care about the colour of. Load up all the colours, set them all to the exact same settings and let it run with runout swapping on.
@@Bearrito582 have you tried multicolor prints yet by hand loading the machine? It drives me nuts especially when I have a 4h print and put the pause in the slicer too early causing me to change to white too early and ruining my print. But I just couldn’t see myself paying $250 for the ams now, plus it takes up way to much space so I ordered the P1S combo on payments.
Great job finding that model and showing it to us! My AMS is collecting dust, since I exclusively print from Dryboxes now, even PLA (you can guess why 😏) So I was disappointed that I never really got to use the AMS to it's full potential and I was just waiting for a good Drybox-conversion to come along! So I might give that one a try, thanks alot! ...but wait... ...since you have a "Drybox" too now... 😏 Any fexible/TPU is a material you should absolutely give a try. Unfortunately flexibles do not work on the AMS Lite though, so you need a different drybox 🤣 (look for a second comment regarding that at some later date) They open up a whole world of possibilities. More than PETG, ABS or any other material, since those all basically are the same: more or less stiff. So flexibles are at the other end of that property spectrum. If you never try them, you could potentially miss out on 50% of the fun Jokes aside, on my A1 Minis alone I've used flexibles for 3 upgrades: Extruder cable straightener, a poop bucket mounted on the purge wiper (printed in flexibles for less rattling noise) and a double Nozzle holder (same reason) that perfectly fits in the right-sided hole of the protrusion that the filament cutter lever pushes against. For starters I'd recommend going with a small 500g spool of 95A hardness or harder. Note: I have 2 A1-Minis. Tested flexibles on a 3rd actually. Two A1-Minis printed them like a god, the third one could barely squirt out any flexible material all. Under-extruded horribly. I still need to find the main issue and will probably write a ticket if I can't figure it out. But so far reducing the drag on the filament path helped a lot with the extruder being able to gripping and pushing the filament better. (500g instead of heavy 1kg spool, using ball bearings instead of hanging the spool on a rough printed rod and shortening the PFTE tube as much as possible that feed from a drybox directly into the extruder) So be aware that your mileage may vary. I hope though it was just bad luck on my end and that A1-Mini in question got shipped with some uncommon hardware defect like a weaker extruder spring or similar...
Thank you for the tips! I’ve tried to print with tpu just to test it out with great results so far however I haven’t had a practical print using tpu yet. i’m sure the day will come soon
Thanks for the video! I could NOT find a video about it before I printed Supergrapher's AMS Lite dry box. But I'm so glad I did. I was amazed at how precisely everything fit together! It would be great if it were a bit more airtight, but for now I'm very happy with mine except for having to recharge my desiccant a bit more frequently here in San Diego. Another video idea: I watched a video about recharging desiccant in an air fryer. I didn't want to put my desiccant in my kitchen oven or microwave, so I was looking for a dedicated MWO but they're not very small. The 2-qt air fryer is pretty small, so I got one. Cheers!
2 questions from a newbie: A) What PTFE tubing should I buy(include sizing, please) B) Does the action bucket need to have it's orientation changed. I printed the first one, and I could not get the supports out. I guess that is question B2) Does the action bucket need to be printed with supports?
thank you for showing this... I had no idea there was something like this for the AMS Lite. I guess I know what I[m printing next... I live in SW Ontario surrounded by the great lakes so humidity is often high.
Uh…in LA the humidity is 87%…PETG gets soaked in a day or two. That said, the designers put the humidity sensors right in front of the desiccant, so those readings are literally worthless. I have made a few dry boxes and learned there needs to be an air-tight seal for there to be any real-world impact. If air cycles through the container the desiccant gets saturated and you have to replace it dry it. There is a model for basically the same thing, but each spool gets its own container. This means the air gets cycled when you put the spool in it and that’s it.
Considering I haven’t been using any sort of filament dryer, I consider any drop in humidity to be an improvement. This also works as a dust cover to keep your filament clean!
Great video! Thank you. For me, a lack of the filament spool 'container' was a - pt against this when looking at a comparison Anycubic Kobra 3 Combo; so this changes my prospectives. the moisture module integration is very neat IMHO.
The likelihood of moisture affecting PLA is very low, although UV damage can be a concern depending on how it’s stored. I’ve left PLA materials (such as silk and matte) exposed for months or even years without issues. While materials like PETG, ABS, and carbon fiber are more moisture-sensitive, PLA is the least affected. I encourage you to research this further, as moisture shouldn't be a reason to avoid printing with PLA. Keep in mind that 3D printed parts won’t completely eliminate moisture concerns, as printed parts can still absorb humidity. For long-term durability, injection-molded parts are often a better choice. Also, it’s important to note that desiccant packets can only absorb moisture from the surrounding air and won’t remove moisture from the material itself. The best way to dry materials is with hot, moving air.
this is so nice! it makes me even happier choosing a bamboo lab, now we just need a few mods like combining this with an old hair dryier and arduino and we can superpower the AMS. So nice!
Thank you for the video. I am not sure how air tight this enclosure is and if it really helps keeping out all the humidity, but for sure a good dust protection.
There is only a small amount of air space in the holders, therefore any ‘outside’ air drawn into the compartments, due to air pressure changes, or filament use, will be negligible. Any moisture which does get in, will be quickly absorbed by the desiccant. This is supported by the fact that the humidity in the container dropped by 15% over night, and in all probability will drop even further, if reuse-able Silica Gel is used. I have P1S/AMS Combo loaded with Silica Gel, and the RH in the AMS is usually 10%. It increases slightly when I replace a filament spool. I keep the, not in use, filament spools in a sealed container, also loaded with SG. After a day, or so, the RH reverts to 10%.
Hello! Great job, this is a really nice project you’ve presented. However, I just wanted to point out that PLA is not the best material for protection against humidity, as it tends to absorb moisture and can actually transmit it inside. A better option would be to use polypropylene (PP), which has much lower moisture absorption and is more suitable for this kind of application. Keep up the great work!
@@jet_lea I just lear that the PETG is the best after the polypropylene. Here is the ChatGpt answer. Here is an estimate of the hygrophilicity coefficients for several common 3D printing materials, using polypropylene (PP) as a reference at 1: Material Hygrophilicity Coefficient (relative to PP) Polypropylene (PP) 1 (100%) PCTG 1.5 to 2 (150% to 200%) PETG 1.5 to 2 (150% to 200%) PLA 2 to 5 (200% to 500%) ABS 1.5 to 2 (150% to 200%) Nylon (PA) 3 to 10 (300% to 1000%) TPU 1.5 to 3 (150% to 300%) HIPS 1.5 to 2 (150% to 200%) Summary PP: 1 (reference) PCTG and PETG: Approximately 1.5 to 2 (50% to 100% more hygrophilic than PP) PLA: Approximately 2 to 5 (200% to 500% more hygrophilic than PP) ABS: Approximately 1.5 to 2 (150% to 200% more hygrophilic than PP) Nylon: Approximately 3 to 10 (300% to 1000% more hygrophilic than PP) TPU: Approximately 1.5 to 3 (150% to 300% more hygrophilic than PP) HIPS: Approximately 1.5 to 2 (150% to 200% more hygrophilic than PP) These values are general estimates and may vary depending on specific material formulations, printing conditions, and storage environments.
Also out of Arizona and work with about 5 other people(out of a team of ten) that all 3d print and do electronic projects. I would love to see a local community of Arizona makers.
Hey bud you are most definitely developing your presentation skills. May I recommend toastmaster. The first few times you try it it will feel goofy, but it is a great way to learn public speaking. Most important thing is finding you way of speaking. Not everyone is a morning dj, and that fad is long gone anyway. U be the best u. Best of luck.
@@jet_lea this one is a drawer setup that the a1 (or mini I assume) would sit on and just the feeders sit ontop of the gantry. I have been trying to justify a mini for a few weeks and may need to give it a go, use this enclosure for that and use the drawer setup for the a1 lol I’ve only been printing for almost 3months and I have three printers already. May need to wait a month or two for a mini combo 😂
I had a few issues with this: 1. My spools were getting stuck from time to time and causing prints to stop 2. It's harder to know your filament levels 3. It's harder to put new filaments 4. It didn't really do much of a difference in my print quality (I use only PLA). At the end I have decided to remove it
Congrats on getting sponsored! Did you say you printed those on a P1S? Where the P1S videos then 😂? Any issues printing these parts? And last question....any issues using Elegoo filament, or petg in general? Great video and keep em coming Jet 😊
Thank you! Yes they were printed on the p1s and I’ll be honest with you, I like making videos about the a1 mini because they’re relatable for more people however i definitely have some p1s videos planned. I have had zero issues with elegoo filament and it’s all i’ve used. I have also had zero issues with elegoo petg, it prints just as easily as pla for me
If you have a spare $40 I would recommend the sunlu filament dryer for one roll because you can print out if it and it actively heats and dries your filament :)
Thank you for sharing and explaining your experiences. I was thinking about it, but now i will get one. Also your hint, that PCBWay do 3D prints. This is perfect, as i am not able to print the large parts on my A1 mini. What type of infill would you suggest to print this parts? PCWWay offers 20%, 40%, 60%, ...
Funny, I was testing 3 different high speed PLAs available on Amazon and Elegoo Rapid PLA+ (grey) was the price-performance winner for me 😄(12,6€ or 14,0$/kg for a 4kg pack) Here my calibration results on the A1-Mini if anyone is interested (all filaments pre-dryed): Temperature tower: I settled at 235°C from the resistance I got from pushing in the little spikes with a pen (I like to print hotter at higher flow rates to compensate for decreased layer adhesion). Layer adhesion was second best. From 210 to 250°C nothing looked bad. All overhangs perfect. Bridging was as good as perfect at every temperature. Max Flowrates: 30mm³/s @235°C 34,6mm³ @260°C Flow Ratio: 1.01 (did the calibration test with high flow rate, so use 1.00 or .099 if you notice over extrusion) Retraction: 0,3mm sufficient Pressure advance: unnecessary with A1's flow calibration. After that I ordered 4kg more and tried using them out of the box without drying. Optical results (prints) are not as good now. Need to dry them again. Flow rate winner was Polymaker Polysonic PLA with 37mm³/s at 250°C. All overhangs perfect. Bridges 210-230°C good, then little sags, at 250° good again. Very soft/weak material. Also the most expensive. Stiffest material & best layer adhesion was Eryone HS PLA+: 33mm³/s@235°C. All overhangs perfect. Almost no bridging even at 235°C. But progressively worsening bridging from there. Not unacceptable, just the worst bridging of the 3 tested
@@jet_lea You could give your standard Elegoo PLA a Max flowrate test with similar temperatures first, before buying the High Speed one. Maybe there is so little difference, that it's not worth switching 😆... who knows. (Orca Slicer has the Max flowrate test build in at the "Calibration" tab under "More..." if you want it conveniently auto generated. Or download it from any platform).
@SebasTian-od7oz i will definitely give it a try, I haven’t experimented much with any advanced settings yet but it’s definitely something I want to try out
Amazing video! Thanks! Can you confirm the measurement of the widest it can hold a filament spool? My local brand spools are around 83mm wide and I'm not sure if this will fit.
I had an issue with binding at first and have since moved to using bowden tubes and have had zero issues. I will most likely make a short video in the future explaining how to do it
Great video! I was wondering if this also works with the vertical stand mod? The AMS lite takes up quite a lot of space and doesn't have an enclosure. Wanted to solve both these issues with the enclosure+vertical stand mod.
I haven’t tried it yet however i don’t see why it wouldn’t work because the enclosure doesn’t interfere with the mounts that a vertical stand would use. You would just have to use desiccant pouches so they don’t spill out :)
I've assembled mine in accordance with the video but now find the AMS will not pick up the filament when I pass it up through the little round inserts with the holes. I've checked to make sure the filament is going through the holes easily and up into where AMS grabs it but nothing is happening. All the light are on so the AMS is alive but when I try to print something, I'm getting a popup saying the filament has run out.
I want to buy one, but I'm very worried about the atmosphere in which I'm putting it?' If I put it in my room and adapt a suitable job for it to complete the printing of the model
I mean, I was printed in a room and the adjustment was turned on, does the printing damage a product or completes printing normally without damaging a printed piece
I’m interested in printing this. How much filament would it use so that I can make sure to have enough available? Also, which clear filament is recommended? Thanks
Good job on the video 👍
Wow it’s the legend themselves! Please feel free to correct anything I said 😂
Hey do you have plans to make one for the top mounted AMS Lite
Glad you printed the enclosure. I'm very happy with mine, too! I have wall mounted the AMS Lite to save a lot of space.
Some things to consider for anyone interested in the enclosure:
1. I used PTFE tubes for the connection between the enclosure and the AMS motors. If you do, make sure the tubes do not extend outwards of the enclosure. I made that mistake and had terrible binding issues. They should sit flush with the outside, at least it you wall mount the AMS.
2. The little plates with the numbers on them can be really difficult to press on the enclosure. I chamfered mine a bit which made it much more manageable.
3. Be very careful when moving the desiccant boxes. I had mine open by mistake and spilled dessicant all over the cupboard, nearby board and floor. I am still finding beads over a month later. I wish the designer would have used a sliding instead of a press mechanism for the lid, but as long as your careful, things should be fine.
Hey, these are all great tips! I also have this enclosure setup and wish this video was out a couple weeks ago before I did mine but I managed 🤣
I’m curious about the PTFE tube portion of your comment…would you mind elaborating on that a bit more?
Thanks!
Thank you for the tips! I would also be interested in hearing more about this PTFE tubes
Everything fits perfectly together except the lid on the desiccant box. I used a cable management velcro tie and wrapped it from top to bottom on the center which keeps the lid on very well. It also serves as a nice little grab handle to pull the desiccant box out when changing spools!
@@jet_lea I also use PTFE tubes instead of the printed exit guide, it was mentioned in Supergrapher's instructions. "…use a short PTFE tube instead." I used about a 20 mm length and it fits snugly in the exit holes.
Thanks for the tips. I'm about to do this as well.
The humidity that's being measured is that in the air around the filament. This doesn't mean that the filament is dry though. Since the enclosure isn't heated, the moisture in the filament isn't moving out as readily. I recommend using a filament dryer before installing a roll on the AMS with dessicant, that way you can be assured of low internal moisture within the filament. There are a lot of good videos on the topic of drying filament. This is a great start to making the AMS lite more reliable. Thanks for the vid
very good point, I will see what I can do to improve the setup!
Yeah I made a makeshift dryer with a tote that has a lb of dessicated and I put a lava lamp bottom with the light in it for a day. And it stays at about 10% for 2 weeks in there. And it holds like 10 rolls of filament
I mean, it's the same as the full AMS as well. These are dry boxes, just designed to maintain a steady state condition, not get it there in the first place.
This isn’t to dry the filament. It’s to keep it dry while it’s loaded in the AMS.
Do you want to know what suffering is?
I live near the Uruguayan border, and the hygrometer just hit 94% humidity! I’m getting the A1 Mini with AMS today, and I was already going crazy! Great video, I'll definitely give this solution a try!
wow that’s extreme! I hope this works for you
94% is like the average humidity for atlantis 💀💀💀
Color-changing desiccant beads are the thing to get. You can tell when they’re saturated because they change color and they’re “rechargeable”: dry them out in a low temperature oven or microwave on defrost and they’re ready to suck up that moisture again!
That’s definitely something i’m going to look into!
Quick word of warning about the indicator type. It seems the chemical they use to make them colour changing are highly toxic. This is according to the CNC Kitchen (IIRC).
Just thought people should be aware.
Honestly I've yet to see any of these change color in a way that is obvious. Sure they do EVENTUALLY when they are saturated but if they get to that point they should have been changed long ago. I have ones that are supposed to go from blue to pink but you won't see them pink until like 80% humidity. At the 20-30% I'd want them changed, they just look blue.
if you print this, I'd think about spraying it down with clearcoat (both sides) too. Otherwise, the plastic that you're covering it with is mostly just as porous to humidity as the filament that you're protecting. it slows it, but well, you know. double bag it with the clear coat.
definitely not a bad idea
This video just came in perfect timing. My A1 with the AMS lite will be shipped tomorrow and I already was trying to think of a solution. Now I have one. Thanks!
Glad I could help!
Haven't even finished the vid yet, saw this pop up and immediately clicked on it. Looks cool.
Thank you!
I was very skeptical that I would be able to print every part and that everything will come together. All that I can say that is just beautiful. I just finished completing one side and everything came together very well. I am so pleased that I spend the time and the filament doing this, thank you so much to everyone that
contribute.
This is definitely a thing of beauty
Just printed this out and installed it for the first half of my AMS lite. I would not have figured it out without this video so thank you so much! Cut the ambient humidity in half.
My only regret is that I didn't have any transparent/translucent filament so now I have to open it to check on levels remaining. There's a mod to insert a window but I'll leave that for another time. Thanks again!
I might have to look into the window mod because that could be very useful
You may not have humidity but you have scorpions and I’ll take humidity over scorpions any day! 😂
honestly i agree with that 100%
Yeah but scorpions are no problem for your 3d prints afaik. so you gotta get your priorities straight 😉
Scorpions had a few running around in Australia doing home extension just put them in a jar preserved for conversation peice 😆
@@Arne.Bornheim 🤣
Hate it when my filament is 15% scorpion
Great video and perfect timing! My A1 combo is being delivered today. Not only does it look like this will work well but it I think it makes the whole setup have a better appearance. Also, I was happy to see you tear the desiccant open as I use dry beads. Great video. I will print this!
that’s awesome! you’re gonna love the ams lite
This is a great video and your delivery is really good. Unlike many videos from the US you don't shout and your relaxed approach makes it extremely easy and pleasant to watch, that alone is refreshing to see and most importantly hear (without ear plugs lol) Keep up the good work and well done on this excellent video.
wow thank you! Relaxed but informative is exactly what I aim for, i’m glad you like it :)
@@jet_lea I’m half way through the print and will use your video for my assembly
@raspberrypiploy771 Glad i can help out 🫡
Supergrapher did a great job on this iterative design! Using one of his previous designs and it still works great.
I agree! It is an extremely impressive design
Very fine video! Straight, to the point and leaving the "oopies" in is brilliant as it shows what NOT to do. Awesome job.
Thank you!
You got me to buy the a1 mini and now I just ordered the P1s! I’m going broke! 😂 Here’s what happened. I kept regretting not buying the AMS lite. And now I didn’t want to pay $250 for it plus it takes up too much space but manually changing the colors mid print was driving me crazy loading unloading loading… So I gave in and bought the P1S combo! It’ll be here Tuesday. 😂
that’s so crazy because i’m in the same exact boat!
@@TheFutureLooksGrimm You’re not alone. I started with a P1S, then upgraded to a P1S, then got an AMS, then got another AMS and an A1 Mini with AMS Lite, and I’ve spent close to $1000 on filament. This hobby just sucks you in!!!
@@davidahn4130 it’s addictive that’s for sure
Just in case anyone asks the maximum length of Bambu PTFE you can use is 1.2 metres , its buried but detailed in the Bambu Wiki for the AMS lite , any longer than that will damage the AMS lite unit.
wow good to know!
Watched the video all the way through and assumed you were a popular channel, the production quality is so good! You deserve MUCH more subscribers man, keep it up!
Wow, thank you!
I kind of regret not ordering an AMS Lite with my A1. I declined as it's 70% humidity here in the autumn. Thought that the AMS with the P1S would be fine. Only it was very quickly obvious that the AMS is really nice to have with these printers, if you're taking orders then they'll pay for themselves in a couple of months.
Now I'm kicking myself in the butt even more because I didn't buy an AMS with my A1 Mini.
Biut, I want to congratulate you on your PCBway sponsorship. It's cool that you got a sponsor so early in your TH-cam career.
I also got the a1 mini without the ams and I wish I saved that 100$
Thank you! I did the same thing and now that I have the ams system I absolutely love it
The amount of usage I get out of my ams is probably 5% of my prints with my mini. Granted I only print functional items. Unless you're printing fun landfill items you're best off with just saving the money for filament.
@@Targetf I run my AMS as a spool emptier with all my nearly empty spools for prints I don't care about the colour of. Load up all the colours, set them all to the exact same settings and let it run with runout swapping on.
@@Bearrito582 have you tried multicolor prints yet by hand loading the machine? It drives me nuts especially when I have a 4h print and put the pause in the slicer too early causing me to change to white too early and ruining my print. But I just couldn’t see myself paying $250 for the ams now, plus it takes up way to much space so I ordered the P1S combo on payments.
This is so cool
Printing one rn
Great video! Looking forward to printing this to keep dust off the filament.
Thank you! Hope it works out
Great job finding that model and showing it to us!
My AMS is collecting dust, since I exclusively print from Dryboxes now, even PLA (you can guess why 😏)
So I was disappointed that I never really got to use the AMS to it's full potential and I was just waiting for a good Drybox-conversion to come along!
So I might give that one a try, thanks alot! ...but wait...
...since you have a "Drybox" too now... 😏
Any fexible/TPU is a material you should absolutely give a try.
Unfortunately flexibles do not work on the AMS Lite though, so you need a different drybox 🤣 (look for a second comment regarding that at some later date)
They open up a whole world of possibilities. More than PETG, ABS or any other material, since those all basically are the same: more or less stiff.
So flexibles are at the other end of that property spectrum. If you never try them, you could potentially miss out on 50% of the fun
Jokes aside, on my A1 Minis alone I've used flexibles for 3 upgrades: Extruder cable straightener, a poop bucket mounted on the purge wiper (printed in flexibles for less rattling noise) and a double Nozzle holder (same reason) that perfectly fits in the right-sided hole of the protrusion that the filament cutter lever pushes against.
For starters I'd recommend going with a small 500g spool of 95A hardness or harder.
Note: I have 2 A1-Minis. Tested flexibles on a 3rd actually. Two A1-Minis printed them like a god, the third one could barely squirt out any flexible material all. Under-extruded horribly. I still need to find the main issue and will probably write a ticket if I can't figure it out. But so far reducing the drag on the filament path helped a lot with the extruder being able to gripping and pushing the filament better.
(500g instead of heavy 1kg spool, using ball bearings instead of hanging the spool on a rough printed rod and shortening the PFTE tube as much as possible that feed from a drybox directly into the extruder)
So be aware that your mileage may vary.
I hope though it was just bad luck on my end and that A1-Mini in question got shipped with some uncommon hardware defect like a weaker extruder spring or similar...
Thank you for the tips! I’ve tried to print with tpu just to test it out with great results so far however I haven’t had a practical print using tpu yet. i’m sure the day will come soon
Great video! Just found this enclosure for the AMS Lite last night, i guess imma print it now lol
might as well
Thanks for the video! I could NOT find a video about it before I printed Supergrapher's AMS Lite dry box. But I'm so glad I did. I was amazed at how precisely everything fit together! It would be great if it were a bit more airtight, but for now I'm very happy with mine except for having to recharge my desiccant a bit more frequently here in San Diego.
Another video idea: I watched a video about recharging desiccant in an air fryer. I didn't want to put my desiccant in my kitchen oven or microwave, so I was looking for a dedicated MWO but they're not very small. The 2-qt air fryer is pretty small, so I got one. Cheers!
That’s a great idea, i’ll have to check it out
2 questions from a newbie: A) What PTFE tubing should I buy(include sizing, please) B) Does the action bucket need to have it's orientation changed. I printed the first one, and I could not get the supports out. I guess that is question B2) Does the action bucket need to be printed with supports?
I love the way you do this video. You don't edit out the mistakes. Hoping you get to 10,000 subs!
I appreciate that!
Awesome, this is one of the reasons why i love 3D printing, you can just make functional stuff :-)
Same here!
thank you for showing this... I had no idea there was something like this for the AMS Lite. I guess I know what I[m printing next... I live in SW Ontario surrounded by the great lakes so humidity is often high.
I hope it works out for you!
Great video! I’ve never been too worried about humidity here in so cal but seeing that overnight drop has convinced me to print this. Thanks!
Uh…in LA the humidity is 87%…PETG gets soaked in a day or two.
That said, the designers put the humidity sensors right in front of the desiccant, so those readings are literally worthless. I have made a few dry boxes and learned there needs to be an air-tight seal for there to be any real-world impact. If air cycles through the container the desiccant gets saturated and you have to replace it dry it.
There is a model for basically the same thing, but each spool gets its own container. This means the air gets cycled when you put the spool in it and that’s it.
Considering I haven’t been using any sort of filament dryer, I consider any drop in humidity to be an improvement. This also works as a dust cover to keep your filament clean!
I like to see these kind of huge 3d printing project, the steps and reactions, keep it up!
That's the plan!
I've been searching for this and it looks that fits perfect on the ams, I'd like to see more upgrades like this one ! Great video !
More to come!
Great video! Thank you. For me, a lack of the filament spool 'container' was a - pt against this when looking at a comparison Anycubic Kobra 3 Combo; so this changes my prospectives. the moisture module integration is very neat IMHO.
I agree, I would love to compare the 2 printers one day in the future
This instantly nakes the AMS lite a lot more interesting and valuable! 🤩
Thanks for the showcase
Glad you like it!
This upgrade is amazing bro!! I strongly need to do that! 👏👏👏👏👏👏
do it!
The likelihood of moisture affecting PLA is very low, although UV damage can be a concern depending on how it’s stored. I’ve left PLA materials (such as silk and matte) exposed for months or even years without issues. While materials like PETG, ABS, and carbon fiber are more moisture-sensitive, PLA is the least affected. I encourage you to research this further, as moisture shouldn't be a reason to avoid printing with PLA.
Keep in mind that 3D printed parts won’t completely eliminate moisture concerns, as printed parts can still absorb humidity. For long-term durability, injection-molded parts are often a better choice. Also, it’s important to note that desiccant packets can only absorb moisture from the surrounding air and won’t remove moisture from the material itself. The best way to dry materials is with hot, moving air.
this is so nice! it makes me even happier choosing a bamboo lab, now we just need a few mods like combining this with an old hair dryier and arduino and we can superpower the AMS. So nice!
Working on it 👀
@@jet_lea woahh how can I help?? 😂
Fellow Arizona guy here. I purchased the same elegoo clear PLA and started printing this and could use some tips to get rid of all the stringing
I printed it slow and used a hair dryer to get rid of the strings once it was done :)
Thank you for the video. I am not sure how air tight this enclosure is and if it really helps keeping out all the humidity, but for sure a good dust protection.
There is only a small amount of air space in the holders, therefore any ‘outside’ air drawn into the compartments, due to air pressure changes, or filament use, will be negligible. Any moisture which does get in, will be quickly absorbed by the desiccant. This is supported by the fact that the humidity in the container dropped by 15% over night, and in all probability will drop even further, if reuse-able Silica Gel is used.
I have P1S/AMS Combo loaded with Silica Gel, and the RH in the AMS is usually 10%. It increases slightly when I replace a filament spool. I keep the, not in use, filament spools in a sealed container, also loaded with SG. After a day, or so, the RH reverts to 10%.
I had my doubts as well but it is now sitting well under 20% with an ambient humidity of around 35%. in my opinion this is a significant improvement
Hello! Great job, this is a really nice project you’ve presented. However, I just wanted to point out that PLA is not the best material for protection against humidity, as it tends to absorb moisture and can actually transmit it inside. A better option would be to use polypropylene (PP), which has much lower moisture absorption and is more suitable for this kind of application. Keep up the great work!
Good to know, thanks for the tips!
@@jet_lea I just lear that the PETG is the best after the polypropylene. Here is the ChatGpt answer.
Here is an estimate of the hygrophilicity coefficients for several common 3D printing materials, using polypropylene (PP) as a reference at 1:
Material Hygrophilicity Coefficient (relative to PP)
Polypropylene (PP) 1 (100%)
PCTG 1.5 to 2 (150% to 200%)
PETG 1.5 to 2 (150% to 200%)
PLA 2 to 5 (200% to 500%)
ABS 1.5 to 2 (150% to 200%)
Nylon (PA) 3 to 10 (300% to 1000%)
TPU 1.5 to 3 (150% to 300%)
HIPS 1.5 to 2 (150% to 200%)
Summary
PP: 1 (reference)
PCTG and PETG: Approximately 1.5 to 2 (50% to 100% more hygrophilic than PP)
PLA: Approximately 2 to 5 (200% to 500% more hygrophilic than PP)
ABS: Approximately 1.5 to 2 (150% to 200% more hygrophilic than PP)
Nylon: Approximately 3 to 10 (300% to 1000% more hygrophilic than PP)
TPU: Approximately 1.5 to 3 (150% to 300% more hygrophilic than PP)
HIPS: Approximately 1.5 to 2 (150% to 200% more hygrophilic than PP)
These values are general estimates and may vary depending on specific material formulations, printing conditions, and storage environments.
Nicely done! I think this will be on my list of projects, too.
You should!
This is a great design and is so cool!
Glad you like it!
Thanks for the info. Your videos have given me soooooo much info that when I got my a1 mini I had no problems 👍
Glad I could help
@@jet_lea Thanks to you I now am going to start posting 3d printing content
th-cam.com/users/shorts9l5ZcS3Iq-4
Never even thought about the humidity being an issue, but where I live there's currently 76% humidity outside so it seems like a great thing
I didn’t realize how much it can affect print quality
I have 7 fish tanks in my room and 3 humidifiers my filament goes old in a week this is a life saver ❤😅
There's also the clips that attach both sides, the 1 and 2 connecting to the 3 and four. Makes everything that more ridged as well
Can’t believe i missed that!
@@jet_lea lol
@@jet_lea good vid though. I built one too, just didn't do the vid for it yet
Wow you already got a sponsor. Congrats!
Thanks! 😃
Yo amazing video! Cool project and super well made 😊 you got a new subscriber and I’m sure you’ll get to 5k soon
Thank you so much!
This is awesome! Thanks for sharing. 🎉
Thanks for watching!
Just started my 3d printing journey and immediately ran into MoistCritical. Great video.
that’s a compliment in my book 😂
made one few days ago. it brilliant design!
Great Video my friend
Thank you!
Thanks for the walk thru. Much appreciated.
No problem 👍
New subscriber here in Sierra Vista, Arizona. Great info. Thanks.
Happy to have you here!
Having a similar setup with a place for a mini heater would be brilliant.
active drying would definitely take it to the next level
Also out of Arizona and work with about 5 other people(out of a team of ten) that all 3d print and do electronic projects. I would love to see a local community of Arizona makers.
I would to, that would be amazing!
Good job...
I have been trying to figure out how I can take my machine mobile. You have just solved my problem
glad I could help!
Tbh with all those upgrades the A1 seems like the best option right now
It is definitely a top contender for the price 🤝
It’s crazy that I was just thinking about designing this lol
I wish I was smart enough to design something like this 😂
Been thinking about doing one of these so thank you for this!!!
I would definitely recommend it!
Great video mate
Thanks!
Printing as am watching your video for top mount A1
That’s awesome
Hey bud you are most definitely developing your presentation skills.
May I recommend toastmaster. The first few times you try it it will feel goofy, but it is a great way to learn public speaking. Most important thing is finding you way of speaking. Not everyone is a morning dj, and that fad is long gone anyway. U be the best u.
Best of luck.
I'll check it out!
I should start a print farm here in san diego. Hopefully earthquakes wont mess up bed adhesion
Maybe just some slight layer shift
was going to make this then saw the s4 conversion and decide that will be a better option
what are the new features??
Love my ultimate AMS lite enclosure! Although, I just saw another option posted on Facebook this morning so I may have to try that one too 🤣 🤣
Give them both a try and let me know what you think
@@jet_lea this one is a drawer setup that the a1 (or mini I assume) would sit on and just the feeders sit ontop of the gantry. I have been trying to justify a mini for a few weeks and may need to give it a go, use this enclosure for that and use the drawer setup for the a1 lol
I’ve only been printing for almost 3months and I have three printers already. May need to wait a month or two for a mini combo 😂
I feel like i’m in the same boat! My printer collection is growing rapidly 😂
@@jet_lea they’re so much fun!! 🤩
@BossyNSaucy you have a link to this setup? I'd like to see what you're talking about. Sounds interesting
I had a few issues with this:
1. My spools were getting stuck from time to time and causing prints to stop
2. It's harder to know your filament levels
3. It's harder to put new filaments
4. It didn't really do much of a difference in my print quality (I use only PLA).
At the end I have decided to remove it
Fair enough, I will monitor for these issues and update if I have any problems!
you should get rechargeable desiccant because you can see when they are full of water then dry them out and reuse them again (they change colors)
definitely will in the future!
Came for the review. Stayed for the cute little ant.
Happy to hear that
Congrats on getting sponsored! Did you say you printed those on a P1S? Where the P1S videos then 😂? Any issues printing these parts? And last question....any issues using Elegoo filament, or petg in general? Great video and keep em coming Jet 😊
Thank you! Yes they were printed on the p1s and I’ll be honest with you, I like making videos about the a1 mini because they’re relatable for more people however i definitely have some p1s videos planned. I have had zero issues with elegoo filament and it’s all i’ve used. I have also had zero issues with elegoo petg, it prints just as easily as pla for me
That desk light is unreal what brand is that????
it’s “neatfi” 🫡
I would check your desiccant, it looks like the kind that dissolves when fully saturated and makes a thin soup like mix.
I didn’t know that was a thing! I will check it out, thank you!
I'm literally printing out the last part of mine right now.
perfect timing
Thank you
You’re welcome
nicely made video , although it was not meant as a tutorial i would be able to put that together with how you explained it . happy to subscribe!
Thank you! that was the goal for the video
@@jet_lea succes! now i need find someone to print it without breaking the bank
hi-Grah-mitter! Great video!
good to know!
1st
Could you do an a1 mini maintenance video? Keep making good videos almost to 5000🎉
It is definitely in the list of planned videos!
@@jet_lea good to hear can’t wait
Check out the reptile heat mat for drying the filament
that’s a great idea
I'd love to have this kind of enclosure but for non-AMS A1, i.e. for just the external spool :)
If you have a spare $40 I would recommend the sunlu filament dryer for one roll because you can print out if it and it actively heats and dries your filament :)
Thank you for sharing and explaining your experiences. I was thinking about it, but now i will get one. Also your hint, that PCBWay do 3D prints. This is perfect, as i am not able to print the large parts on my A1 mini. What type of infill would you suggest to print this parts? PCWWay offers 20%, 40%, 60%, ...
Great video! How do you remove the sensor to replace the battery? 🤔
do the RFID tags still work?
Yes, that was one of the questions i answered in the 2nd video about the enclosure if you’re interested!
Funny, I was testing 3 different high speed PLAs available on Amazon and Elegoo Rapid PLA+ (grey) was the price-performance winner for me 😄(12,6€ or 14,0$/kg for a 4kg pack)
Here my calibration results on the A1-Mini if anyone is interested (all filaments pre-dryed):
Temperature tower: I settled at 235°C from the resistance I got from pushing in the little spikes with a pen (I like to print hotter at higher flow rates to compensate for decreased layer adhesion). Layer adhesion was second best.
From 210 to 250°C nothing looked bad. All overhangs perfect. Bridging was as good as perfect at every temperature.
Max Flowrates: 30mm³/s @235°C 34,6mm³ @260°C
Flow Ratio: 1.01 (did the calibration test with high flow rate, so use 1.00 or .099 if you notice over extrusion)
Retraction: 0,3mm sufficient
Pressure advance: unnecessary with A1's flow calibration.
After that I ordered 4kg more and tried using them out of the box without drying. Optical results (prints) are not as good now. Need to dry them again.
Flow rate winner was Polymaker Polysonic PLA with 37mm³/s at 250°C. All overhangs perfect. Bridges 210-230°C good, then little sags, at 250° good again. Very soft/weak material. Also the most expensive.
Stiffest material & best layer adhesion was Eryone HS PLA+: 33mm³/s@235°C. All overhangs perfect. Almost no bridging even at 235°C. But progressively worsening bridging from there. Not unacceptable, just the worst bridging of the 3 tested
that is interesting, i’ll have to give it a try
@@jet_lea You could give your standard Elegoo PLA a Max flowrate test with similar temperatures first, before buying the High Speed one.
Maybe there is so little difference, that it's not worth switching 😆... who knows.
(Orca Slicer has the Max flowrate test build in at the "Calibration" tab under "More..." if you want it conveniently auto generated. Or download it from any platform).
@SebasTian-od7oz i will definitely give it a try, I haven’t experimented much with any advanced settings yet but it’s definitely something I want to try out
Awesome man!
Thanks!
Amazing video! Thanks! Can you confirm the measurement of the widest it can hold a filament spool? My local brand spools are around 83mm wide and I'm not sure if this will fit.
just answered this question in my latest video!
You need two more brackets. The bottom of the unit also accepts them.
ohhhh, I was wondering what the other pieces where for, thanks for the info!
That drop was wild! Gotta try it out. Any problems with extruding?
I had an issue with binding at first and have since moved to using bowden tubes and have had zero issues. I will most likely make a short video in the future explaining how to do it
Great video! I was wondering if this also works with the vertical stand mod? The AMS lite takes up quite a lot of space and doesn't have an enclosure. Wanted to solve both these issues with the enclosure+vertical stand mod.
I haven’t tried it yet however i don’t see why it wouldn’t work because the enclosure doesn’t interfere with the mounts that a vertical stand would use. You would just have to use desiccant pouches so they don’t spill out :)
@@jet_lea ty bro appreciate the comment! keep doing you, glad to see you're growing on yt fast
Thank you! It’s thanks to all your support :)
just answered this question in my latest video!
@@jet_lea Appreciate it ill watch it
Greetings from norway... where 60% is low humidity...
that sounds rough!
I've assembled mine in accordance with the video but now find the AMS will not pick up the filament when I pass it up through the little round inserts with the holes.
I've checked to make sure the filament is going through the holes easily and up into where AMS grabs it but nothing is happening.
All the light are on so the AMS is alive but when I try to print something, I'm getting a popup saying the filament has run out.
have you tried using bowden tubes? I showed how to do it in my latest video
Link to makerworld doesn't work? Good Video Bro!
makerworld was down this morning, try it again now!
@@jet_lea works, thanks
Is the original 3D file available for download. Would like to add a 12V heating strips for each compartment + a central temperature controller!
that would be a great addition, I’m not sure if the file is available because i’m not the creator
I want to buy one, but I'm very worried about the atmosphere in which I'm putting it?' If I put it in my room and adapt a suitable job for it to complete the printing of the model
I printed it in a spare bedroom no problem if that’s what you’re asking
I mean, I was printed in a room and the adjustment was turned on, does the printing damage a product or completes printing normally without damaging a printed piece
Great video. Can this be printed on the A1 mini?
yes, there is a print profile for the a1 mini however it will require you to glue the pieces together
Isn’t it an issue to use cardboard spools on the AMS lite?
I haven’t had any issues yet
I’m interested in printing this. How much filament would it use so that I can make sure to have enough available? Also, which clear filament is recommended? Thanks
I used less than one roll of clear elegoo pla and around 50 grams of petg for the clips. The amazon links to the filament is in the bio :)
great thanks
No, thank you!
I can’t find it on Maker world. I’ve searched till I’m crazy but can’t find it. Any update?
Have you tried the link in bio or searching “supergrapher”?
Sounds like: hai·graa·muh·tr
thanks for the video bro, but where the files?
Link in bio!