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How to Make a No-Till Garden
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ส.ค. 2024
- No-Till gardening is the soil-loving, weed haters alternative to tilling. Learn why no-till gardening is the best thing we can do to prepare and maintain an area for planting (and fewer weeds), and the consequences of tilling. No-till gardening is where it’s at. If you love your soil, ditch the tiller! Read more about the benefits of a no-till garden. www.milorganit...
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I would also add that buying some night-crawlers and red wigglers (which work at different depths naturally) to the soil can help kick-start the break-down process even more
Ok I'm gonna start this
It seems that all of these videos send up a flag about how much damage you are doing when you till, but fail to take into account the people who are trying to prepare seriously uneven, rocky land the first year. I have a patch of land once the foundation of a barn that burned. There are huge holes and steep mounds full of rocks and debris. There is no way to plant on this land without bringing equipment to level it and clean it. All the videos showing this no-till method show lawns that are flat and even, with grass and decent soil. That is far from the reality of everyone. It may be best to use a no-till method in subsequent years, but sometimes you need to till when first starting out and that should be mentioned.
It's not always no till. If you till your land which is in the condition you mentioned, you will likely not have to till again. Till once, so you never have to again.
Great video full of useful info, thank you.
I fully agree with the no till method for the reasons you stated. I find there's one exception and that is when starting a garden in heavy clay soil. Tilling a few inches of organic material into the clay can take years off the soil building process. Then layer with more organics per this video. This will result in a bed that is about a foot deep and pretty well drained with organics below the top few inches. No tilling after year one!
I like starting a growing plot with a motorized tiller, removing stones and debris larger than a dime in diameter (lots of work, but it really pays off in the long run), and then tilling in several cubic yards of compost. By tilling and amending the soil from the beginning, we could learn everything we needed to know concerning soil composition, soil needs, and any drainage issues. The walkways throughout the garden are covered first by cardboard, then industrial-grade weed cloth, an inch or two of sand, and then several inches of the smaller stones previously removed from that same ground. For the growing areas, I generally build 12" raised beds filled with a mixture of the existing soil and compost. From this point forward, there is never again a need for motorized tilling. Plants are harvested and ultimately cleared by cutting at the soil level, with roots left in place. Beds are "mulched" with several inches of fresh compost as a top dressing at every planting. Planting is as easy as sticking a hand into the airy soil and clearing a spot for the seedling. If the bed seems like it could use some deeper loosening, a couple minutes with a broad fork can do just that on a 20-ft-long raised bed.
When we bought this house, the backyard was essentially a dump for road fill materials. It was nearly a foot of hard-packed clay with zero drainage. There were even several sections of old, crumbling pavement. The prior owner had simply spread a couple inches of topsoil and new sod over the entire surface and watered it like mad to keep it green until after it was sold. That grass died after a single day of not watering it during the spring. By tilling, removing the vast majority of large stones (including massive chunks of pavement), and then tilling in cubic yard after cubic yard of compost (a cheap $2.00/cubic yard from our municipal composting program due to the bulk purchase), we improved the soil in a single summer to a degree I doubt even a decade of no-till could come close to matching. We laid new sod as a border around the garden, and this grass still thrives. It sent roots deep into ground that was once too dense and rocky, with zero drainage just a year earlier, and it easily stays green and healthy using mostly passive rain fall and collected rainwater via fairly infrequent watering throughout even 100+F degree summers and full sunlight. We did all of this improvement nearly 20 years ago. Our gravel walkways are still nearly 100% weed free ("weeding" takes about five minutes every couple months), and didn't even show a hint of water drainage issues when we were hit last fall with 10 inches of rain in just two hours. Several of our neighbors reported basement flooding due to backyard "flash floods" caused by that same storm. The grass drains well, the raised beds drain well, and the overall soil quality is unrecognizably better than when we began.
Sure, if a person is starting off with well-drained, healthy soil that simply happens to be covered by manicured lawn and has a couple years to wait for cardboard and a cold compost pile to convert that area into a garden space, then the method demonstrated in this video is an option. However, I think the benefits of ongoing no-till gardening policies are often conflated with the idea that motorized tilling is always bad and shouldn't even be used during the initial creation of a healthy garden space. I think manual/motorized tilling, stone grading, and massive organic-material amending of non-prime sites is an extremely effective and time efficient way of getting a healthy garden off to a fantastic start in a single season. Any root zone damage from the tilling and amending of the soil is, in my opinion, completely negligible, and will be repaired and massively improved in just a single growing season, especially if soil composition was terrible from the start. For those reasons, I support using motorized tilling to prep a garden site, and then using no-till gardening techniques from that point forward.
PSPSMITH202 Stones are pa ked with minerals! Why bother removing the minerals? lol you just removed important nutrients from your soil!
For a quick start in new ground, I think Tilling, raking a through down the centre of the new row, then laying down cardboard would be the best. Mulching with straw from grain crops where Glyphosate was used and Desiccant for drying the crop for harvesting is resulting in complaints that garden soil is contaminated by the Roundup, and plant's are withering! Straw from grains grown Organically would be rare!
I am very happy with my no till garden, I have about 4” of wood chips and no weeds. The dirt also stays moist under the wood chips here in the Arizona dessert
So simple and helpful, amazing video!!!
Awesome video if i may suggest though at least some things that will speed up the process even down from a couple of years to maybe a few weeks to 2 months at most with the method ive been doin with soiled wood shavins wasted hay an horse manure an it get extremly hot ...enough ta cook a duck egg when buried in it ...dont ask anyway i turn it bout once or so a week an ive got fully darkened rich brown to black mulch dirt that i use an like i said the way i do it is only a few weeks to couple months max an youre ready depending on how broken down you want it but in 2 weeks it dont even smell like manure no more smells like dirt so ya know its workin good cookin it down
Milorganite is the only way to go!
Close but just not quite there. Cook that grass area FIRST with tarps, dark side up, then till it up / in with natural / organic compost and cook / sterilize again with tarps, dark side up. THEN go about layering your natural and organic materials ( NO GRASSES with potential seed! ) and inoculate with leaf molds or IMOs (Indigenous Micro Organisms ) that are right there on your own property or in some wooded area near by. Water it in and cover yet again with tarp, dark side up for 1-3 months and THEN you can add your final / initial COVERING of preferably 2-3 inches of wood chips. It WILL NOT be or always be grass / weed free, you will never stop the wind from blowing or the birds from flying over but you can take some precautions like making sure to shoot the grass clippings AWAY from the vegetable growing area. Bottom line.......You DON"T need to purchase products that are already available to you in nature. Just my thoughts.
@@3basketliving how long do you keep the tarps on the first two times you mentioned? This sounds like a very lengthy process. I’m probably just going to fill up the soil with a shovel. Mix in some organics then put cardboard on top and more organic on top of that then plant.
thanks and take care 😊
Good tips, but if you want to have a truly organic garden, you must choose cardboard without any ink on it! Ink is highly toxic and will decompose in your soil along with the cardboard. Remove the tape too. And newspapers... full of ink...? That's like making an "organic" soap and putting a few drops of store soap in it 😆
What of you do this before the first snow fall? Here in upstate ny, sun is limited in late fall to april ish.
BEST TIME IS IN THE FALL INDEED. COPY NATURE
All the planning to be great while I just am with or without the friends and family, with or without the glamour..
Don’t forget to till under your cover crop before it goes to seed or you’ll be worse off than before!
Loved it, thank you.
How do I aerate an existing perennial flower bed? Compacted clay that was amended once, planted, and heavily mulched. Recently digging other holes for plants in the area, I could see that about a spade's length down or shallower, the clay is still compacted, hard as a rock. If I can't till this bed to loosen compacted soil the roots on the plants will not be able to expand with growth into the clay beyond the original holes which I dug (a little wider and deeper, added amendment, and planted). What can I do to amend at a deeper level, where the clay is compacted and aerate the soil and adding drainage?
Organic matter adds nutrients but also improves drainage and aeration in heavy soil. Spread a one to two-inch layer of compost over the soil surface of struggling perennial gardens. Use an auger bit to drill holes through the compost and into the soil in several places between existing plants. This moves compost into the root zone and aerates poorly drained soils. Learn more on how to improve your soil: www.milorganite.com/blog/Lawn/improve-your-soil
So it's the end of January. If I place all my cardboard and compost now, I should wait until NEXT April before doing any planting? Or should 3 months be long enough for everything to break down?
Hi Dani, Once all organic material is in place, strive for at least a 6-inch mound above ground. In a matter of months, if you keep it moist, everything that you’ve added will break down and integrate into the soil. It will also serve as the first new, nutrient rich plantable layer. Then, simply pull away just enough material where you want to sow your seeds or plant your seedlings.
Warmer temperatures will help speed up the decomposition process, if you live in the northern region start the process in spring after the ground thaws.
To learn more no-till tips: www.milorganite.com/blog/garden-landscape/no-till-gardening
Thank you
You're Welcome! :)
I don’t have 1-2 seasons. I wanna get rid of the grass now !!
I'm taking out an area that has had a turf carpet and the soil is really compacted so I was wondering... Can I do the no till method up here in the Massachusetts area? Thanks , I love your videos
Strive for at least a 6-inch mound above ground. In a matter of months, if you keep it moist, everything that you’ve added will break down and integrate into the soil. It will also serve as the first new, nutrient rich plantable layer. Then, simply pull away just enough material where you want to sow your seeds or plant your seedlings.
The beauty of the no-till gardening method is that, unlike tilling, dormant weed seeds are covered deeper and deeper as you continue to add a new layer or two of organic matter every year. Ultimately, you have an incredibly spongy layer of soil rich in nutrients and beneficial organisms that are the perfect environment for roots to grow into and easily expand. For more info: www.milorganite.com/blog/garden-landscape/no-till-gardening
You say season you mean a whole year or like over the winter?
Great question! Ideally, you want to plan ahead, at least by a season (prep in winter or fall for spring). However, the timing will depend on where you live and the weather. For those in the south are lucky to garden all year long, and those in the north are spring through fall. One season is enough time to allow nature to prepare the top surface for planting. From then on, it only gets better and better after that. For no-till information please check out the blog: www.milorganite.com/blog/garden-landscape/no-till-gardening
Hey 👋, so it is my first time trying to start a garden. My landlord allowed me to start one. I live in GA and surrounded by a lot of pines and oaks. I started by taking a hoe and shovel to break up the grass and roots. It doesn't look like very rich dirt and the dirt is tough to dig. I planted maybe 10 ft from a tree and I came across a TON of roots and rocks. All pretty hard to get out. I was wondering of a garden would even survive?
Caution to not disturb tree roots that may weaken the tree(s) View our video on improving your soil th-cam.com/video/Q8vLN2pi7AM/w-d-xo.html or check out the benefits of raised garden beds! th-cam.com/video/xxijbIcUeLY/w-d-xo.html
love Milorganite .
Close but just not quite there. Cook that grass area FIRST with tarps, dark side up, then till it up / in with natural / organic compost and cook / sterilize again with tarps, dark side up. THEN go about layering your natural and organic materials ( NO GRASSES with potential seed! ) and inoculate with leaf molds or IMOs (Indigenous Micro Organisms ) that are right there on your own property or in some wooded area near by. Water it in and cover yet again with tarp, dark side up for 1-3 months and THEN you can add your final / initial COVERING of preferably 2-3 inches of wood chips. It WILL NOT be or always be grass / weed free, you will never stop the wind from blowing or the birds from flying over but you can take some precautions like making sure to shoot the grass clippings AWAY from the vegetable growing area. Bottom line.......You DON"T need to purchase products that are already available to you in nature. Just my thoughts.
@@3basketliving tilling the no till method is not necessary and actually is detrimental to the structure.
We're nearing the end of our first year trying this in our home garden and it's gone very well, I think my parents have been convinced! The only tough part was digging rows for green beans, but there was very little weeding to be done over the summer. Before we start the cover for next year, does the entire bottom layer have to be cardboard or can it just be any layered material?
Newspaper (5-10 sheets thick) is a common material used for the base smother level. However, if you choose this option, just be sure to come in behind it quickly with something to weigh it down. Compost, wood chips or even spraying it with water will help keep it from blowing away as you lay out this first course. An alternative to newspaper, is cardboard. It’s just as available and easier to work with. Plus, over time, it completely breaks down, and provides a better smothering base. For more no-till gardening tips: www.milorganite.com/blog/garden-landscape/no-till-gardening
If you added a thick layer of soil the to the top of your mulch could you plant on it - without waiting a season as you mentioned?
Hi, Sarah - Yes, you can plant immediately just sprinkle compost or potting mix on top of the beds before planting.
@@MilorganiteFertilizer excellent - thanks 😊
Where was this video shot? It's so beautiful outside
Hi, This video was shot at Joe Lampl's garden farm in suburban Atlanta, GA. th-cam.com/users/joegardenerTV
What time of year is best to start this?
Once all organic material is in place, strive for at least a 6-inch mound above ground. In a matter of months, if you keep it moist, everything that you’ve added will break down and integrate into the soil. It will also serve as the first new, nutrient-rich plantable layer. Then, simply pull away just enough material where you want to sow your seeds or plant your seedlings. To learn more: www.milorganite.com/blog/garden-landscape/no-till-gardening
My garden is full of rocks. I live in a town that used to be a marble quarry and I can’t dig more than an inch without hitting a rock. Should I do one big dig out to remove the stones and then start no till gardening or just leave it as it is?
Hi Andrea, Until you start digging you won't know how deep the rock layer is. Another great option to start a garden is using raised beds which will allow you to amend the solid in the bed. th-cam.com/video/xxijbIcUeLY/w-d-xo.html and for more benefits to raised bed gardening and tips on improving your soil: www.milorganite.com/blog/garden-landscape/top-5-reasons-garden-raised-bed
Oooh that's a great idea but I started to till where I want to put a raised flower bed in the ground well my raised flower bed isn't raised there anyway how can i fix it just keep adding soil Maybe
A cover crop, maybe? Pack it together with a shovel you could use a roller if it's on the earth and not raised.
I have missed the window for getting mulch and organic material down in time for it to be incorporated in the soil. I am still determined to plant this year on a new plot that is already void of grass. Could I till this year and then lay down mulch at the end of the season? I don't want to disturb the soil microbiome, but I want to have a decent yield this season. Any suggestions?
There are many ways to improve the soil. Incorporating compost is one method. The addition of this material into the soil helps improve drainage, increase water holding ability adn adds nutrients to the soil. Research shows lots of benefits from compost enriched soil. Lasagna gardening is a way to use landscape trimmings to build soil on the existing soil surface. This method puts landscape trimmings to work and yields great result the first season. Over time the bed will settle but beds made from lasagna gardening that years later provide good benefits: www.melindamyers.com/audio-video/melindas-garden-moment-videos/sustainable-gardening/build-great-garden-soil-with-lasagna-gardening
This video is very helpful. will the no till method work for rocky soil? I have lots of walnut-sized rocks in the spot I want to plant. Can I build my layers on top of the rocky soil and not worry about it or do I need to try to remove as many rocks as I can?
It's possible! Building your garden soil on top of the existing soil with rocks is easier than amending soil loaded with rocks. Try lasagna gardening. Lasagna gardening immediately creates a plantable garden bed. Learn more in our no-dig gardening blog: www.milorganite.com/blog/garden-landscape/no-dig-gardening
Can u do this tehnique on a patch where a garden used to be but is terribly overgrown with weeds?
Yes no-till gardening can be done on areas of grass or weeds.
Close but just not quite there. Cook that grass area FIRST with tarps, dark side up, then till it up / in with natural / organic compost and cook / sterilize again with tarps, dark side up. THEN go about layering your natural and organic materials ( NO GRASSES with potential seed! ) and inoculate with leaf molds or IMOs (Indigenous Micro Organisms ) that are right there on your own property or in some wooded area near by. Water it in and cover yet again with tarp, dark side up for 1-3 months and THEN you can add your final / initial COVERING of preferably 2-3 inches of wood chips. It WILL NOT be or always be grass / weed free, you will never stop the wind from blowing or the birds from flying over but you can take some precautions like making sure to shoot the grass clippings AWAY from the vegetable growing area. Bottom line.......You DON"T need to purchase products that are already available to you in nature. Just my thoughts.
I get your point but this presentation is about a no till method.
@@beebob1279 Well I for one didn't miss the point of this vid at all I believe. Lets start with the fact that it just another promotion for another fertilizer with heavy toxic metals (although less than your trusty USDA will allow) with cautions against the dogs getting into it by recommending that the pets stay off the lawn for at least 24 hrs, approximately $16 for a 36 lb. bag with the vegetable garden application rat of 4 1/2 lbs x 2 in the growing season OR 4 cups per plant. Do you think we have to worry about or pets and children with UN-Treated tree leaves, grasses, or wood chips. This is the same ole selling you bottled water and some day trying to keep you from collecting the natural rain from your roof top. The good Creator has provided all we need naturally and THAT is my rebuttal trying to encourage others of a more self sustainable natural (media) way while doing so more economically. Not to mention that he points out while laying the cardboard (which is work as well to collect for any significant garden) that in a few years you'll be able to plant in the developed ground. A garden as it is (the way man goes about it) isn't a natural thing to begin with being all contained in our manageable areas. So with that said....my tiller use is to create a good foundation in an area that doesn't that doesn't do so naturally given the location so as to have a no till natural garden area. Just like putting a house up...you intervene by building a foundation if it's not there naturally to begin with. I completely understand the process and I am a huge promoter of the no-till methods and the ground / soil will heal wonderfully just like our own bodies do after surgery. ;)
thanks will give this a try
Good info, thanks. How do I go about finding IMOs?
Could I plant in it after 1 season?
Yes, you want to plan ahead, at least by a season. That’s enough time to allow nature to prepare the top surface for planting. In subsequent seasons, continue to add a generous layer of organic materials or cover crops, once or twice each year. Such as adding a one-inch layer of compost just before planting. For more no-till gardening tips: www.milorganite.com/blog/garden-landscape/no-till-gardening
Cover crops are the way to go. Find one that blooms and benefits our pollinators. Let it bloom for a week, then take it down. This way those seeds dont get a chance to grow. Too many people dont do cover crops and continue to use chemical fertilizers. Quit doing this and use cover crops
Can I use grass clippings? From after cutting grass
Hi Blake, Adding layers of organic matter above the carboard or paper such as aged manure, compost, straw, or grass clippings that will break down rather quickly. Lawn clippings treated with a herbicide (weed killer) should be returned to the lawn for two or three mowings after the application before using them. For more no-till gardening tips: www.milorganite.com/blog/garden-landscape/no-till-gardening
Does it matter what kind of wood chip you use? I'm having a tree removed (not sure of the species) and was going to ask the tree service to leave some chips when they are done. Also, can you use grass clippings instead of straw?
Stump grinding makes excellent and free mulch and can be used in a no-till garden or spread the wood chips in a one-inch layer over your soil and then rake it into your flower beds. If the tree chopped down was diseased before stump grinding, the wood chippings can still be composted and used as topical mulch. However, it is best to let it sit for up to a year before use. Good luck!
@Bee Bob Well I for one didn't miss the point of this vid at all I believe. Lets start with the fact that it just another promotion for another fertilizer with heavy toxic metals (although less than your trusty USDA will allow) with cautions against the dogs getting into it by recommending that the pets stay off the lawn for at least 24 hrs, approximately $16 for a 36 lb. bag with the vegetable garden application rat of 4 1/2 lbs x 2 in the growing season OR 4 cups per plant. Do you think we have to worry about or pets and children with UN-Treated tree leaves, grasses, or wood chips. This is the same ole selling you bottled water and some day trying to keep you from collecting the natural rain from your roof top. The good Creator has provided all we need naturally and THAT is my rebuttal trying to encourage others of a more self sustainable natural (media) way while doing so more economically. Not to mention that he points out while laying the cardboard (which is work as well to collect for any significant garden) that in a few years you'll be able to plant in the developed ground. A garden as it is (the way man goes about it) isn't a natural thing to begin with being all contained in our manageable areas. So with that said....my tiller use is to create a good foundation in an area that doesn't that doesn't do so naturally given the location so as to have a no till natural garden area. Just like putting a house up...you intervene by building a foundation if it's not there naturally to begin with. I completely understand the process and I am a huge promoter of the no-till methods and the ground / soil will heal wonderfully just like our own bodies do after surgery. ;)
What can I do this season??
Hi, Kathy, If you want to plant a garden this year (less than 8 weeks) we recommend removing the grass/weeds by hand and adding compost to the garden when planting and then in fall amend the soil. Another option is to use containers this season while you smother (no-till method) the area for next season. Here are a few ways to remove grass/weeds without chemicals. www.milorganite.com/blog/Lawn/how-kill-grass Good luck!
Dude.... I am 72.... I may live a long time, but I don't want to give up even one season while this is percolating. Can I do this over the winter and just plant through what I've put down in the spring? In fact, my early spring stuff (onions & garlic) are ending. I was going to go with the cardboard and compost now and be ready to replant in the fall.... make any sense? yep I am impatient....
Hi, Ed! Once all organic material is in place, strive for at least a 6-inch mound above ground. In a matter of months, if you keep it moist, everything that you’ve added will break down and integrate into the soil. It will also serve as the first new, nutrient-rich plantable layer. Then, simply pull away just enough material where you want to sow your seeds or plant your seedlings. Check the No-Till blog for more information: www.milorganite.com/blog/garden-landscape/no-till-gardening
Do you plant seeds below the cardboard layer in the dirt? What did you plant on this?
Once all organic material is in place, strive for at least a 6-inch mound above ground. In a matter of months, if you keep it moist, everything that you’ve added will break down and integrate into the soil. It will also serve as the first new, nutrient-rich plantable layer. Then, simply pull away just enough material where you want to sow your seeds or plant your seedlings.
The beauty of the no-till gardening method is that unlike tilling, dormant weed seeds are covered deeper and deeper as you continue to add a new layer or two of organic matter every year. Ultimately, you have an incredibly spongy layer of soil rich in nutrients and beneficial organisms that are the perfect environment for roots to grow into and easily expand.
Would it help to cover the area with a dark plastic sheet?
I'm asking because want to start a garden but I only have uncomposted chicken manure and grass/weed clippings available.
The area I plan to work with had sheep in it up until last week so there's plenty of sheep dung all over the place. This leads me to assume that the area is probably fertile enough already, and I just want to kill the grass and weeds, and get the soil ready for planting after winter.
Solarization is an all-natural method, that uses the heat from the sun to kill the grass and weeds. This method is best done in summer and is excellent for your soil health. Cover the grass area with a transparent plastic tarp (1-2 layers) and wait for est. 4-8 weeks. Another option as mentioned in the "No Till Gardening" video is to smother the area which kills the grass and weeds and allows it to compost in place, adding valuable organic matter back to the soil. Learn more on how to smother the area: www.milorganite.com/blog/garden-landscape/no-till-gardening
How many months does it take to break down
You may plant into this garden right away or allow it to decompose over several months, timing will depend on the temperature and sunlight. To plant seeds in a row, spread in a one-inch deep strip of soil, lay the seeds on the soil and cover with the recommended amount of additional soil. For more no-till gardening tips: www.milorganite.com/blog/garden-landscape/no-till-gardening
I can't find Milorganite fertilizer anywhere in Portland OR and ordering it online incurs shipping costs. Is there anything else I can use?
Hi, Tom - We apologize for any inconvenience and appreciate your support of Milorganite. Please visit our store locator for additional stores in your area. www.milorganite.com/tools-and-resources/store-locator Also, try calling your garden center or local Ace or True Value store, you may be able to order Milorganite at the store or on their websites for in-store pick-up.
@@MilorganiteFertilizer I did use the store locator and I tried three stores listed. None of them had it, including Ace Hardware, Parkrose Hardware, and Bi-Mart. I will look at Fred Meyer next time I'm there.
Does the garden look this weedless after a year?
In a no-till garden, we still have the same objectives: a garden with fewer weeds, improved soil, and continued improvement. But in a no-till scenario, nature does the soil prep for you. The key though is that it takes more time initially. Ideally, you want to plan ahead, at least by a season. That’s enough time to allow nature to prepare the top surface for planting. From then on it only gets better and better after that. www.milorganite.com/blog/garden-landscape/no-till-gardening
when using a cover crop, what do you do when you’re ready to plant your veggies and such? does the cover crop just die by then or would you have to pull it up?
When cover crops have reached the end of their season or served their purpose, it’s time to work them into the soil. The first step is always to cut the growth of any cover crop close to the soil surface, and then, you have two options:
1) Turn the plant material and the roots into the soil to take advantage of the nutrients stored in all the plant materials. This option feeds the most nutrients and organic matter directly into your soil, but it can also take more effort to mix that much material into your garden bed. Especially for crops such as deep-rooted winter rye. While its deep roots are great for aerating the soil and great for providing nutrients. For no-till gardeners, this option can still be viable, but you may find it’s more work than you have the time or energy to do.
2) Add the cut foliage to your compost pile and turn just the roots into the soil. This option provides plenty of benefits with less physical effort. The nutrients within the foliage will still find their way into your soil once the composted material is added to your bed later.
If you would still like to turn some of the crops into the soil there are good crop choices that will work well here. Austrian winter peas can be much easier to work in, yet they provide many of the same nutrient and soil protection benefits you may need from a cover crop. Red clover can be another gentler option, and it can be planted even in early spring if you didn’t get around to planting a cover crop at the end of the summer season.
For more info: www.milorganite.com/blog/garden-landscape/understanding-cover-crops-home-garden
Could this method work in Texas where we have “black gumbo” soil? 😏
Hi Kelly, No matter what type of soil you have to start, whether it’s loose and sandy, or heavy clay, doing what you can to incorporate organic matter will give it body, porosity, texture, and crucial microorganisms your plants need to really thrive. Learn more tips on how to improve your soil with Joe Lamp'l: th-cam.com/video/Q8vLN2pi7AM/w-d-xo.html
I want his fork/shovel 2:43. Where can I find one?
Hi Angela - This took is called a Unifork. Here’s the link: www.unionjacktools.com/unifork-grape-pomace-fork/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwsvrpBRCsARIsAKBR_0LZQ4-4L4uPPBC-lXsMZwq5y4rXqQc0NNTKm7y_j8nSzezBIpQwl3QaAiYVEALw_wcB FYI, Amazon may have a better price.
Lol i thought you was about to flame torch the ground
What if you don't have cardboard or newspaper?
The goal is to smother the area designated for planting using newspaper or cardboard. This will kill the grass and weeds beneath and soften the area for planting later. Check with a neighbor or local store for free cardboard. Good luck!
Try a local recycle center if you have one.
And always remember. NEVER use that toxic sewage sludge
Milorganite complies with federal and state standards for the protection of public health and the environment. Milorganite can be used with confidence for all of your fertilizing needs, including lawns, trees, shrubs, flowers, and vegetables when used as directed. For more information visit our safety page. www.milorganite.com/using-milorganite/safety
So you add heavy metals to your soil ....
Metals are not all bad. Some metals are micronutrients and are necessary in small amounts for plants to grow and reproduce, including copper and zinc, which naturally occur in the environment. For a product like Milorganite, federal and state regulations have established limits for metals to protect public health and the environment. Milorganite contains metals at levels found safe by EPA when Milorganite is used as directed. To view the EPA Metals Limits vs. 2019 Milorganite Averages: www.milorganite.com/using-milorganite/safety
No thanks to arsenic and cadmium in my garden. Even very small amounts bioaccumulate and have been known to cause cancers in humans.
@@Tamarind525 right ? that exactly my point too
@@Tamarind525 Is there arsenic and cadmium in the product?
do you know any good alternative to cardboard ?
Isn't millorganite human feces? I'm no germaphobe, but as a holder of a doctorate in infectious disease, I have qualms about the residual lipophiliic drugs, unmetabolized chemo waste, active viruses and general human nasty.
I prefer horse manure, black Cow, et al.
Or better yet, soil from the floor of the old growth forest in which I live. Active mycelial layers/beds throughout. Avg tree age is 200+ yrs.
Pureblood, mask free (not even once) healthy, so I'm not anti drug/vax/etc. Just coerced drugs, scientific illogic and ruminant-like gullibility are my cues of distrust.
I ain't dumb.
Appalachian mtns, btw.
Hi, Milorganite is NOT a bag of poop! (Seriously, it’s not.) It’s a question we’ve heard for decades. There’s an obvious reason for the misunderstanding: Milorganite is the end result of Milwaukee’s wastewater treatment process. So, in the same sentence, you hear “sewerage” and “Milorganite.” Milorganite is composed of heat-dried (dead) microbes that have digested the organic matter in wastewater. So, it’s actually a bag of dead microbes that nourishes and feeds the soil microbes. Learn more: www.milorganite.com/blog/milorganite/what-milorganite
Learn How to Create the Best Soil for Your Raised Bed Gardens: th-cam.com/video/QbDdYKmji8U/w-d-xo.html
Clown from Monsanto gonna show us how to organic
This is no a no till organic system. No where in nature does mother earth layer cardboard and leaves and woodchips and compost. This method is just overloading an area with organic material and then having to add to it every year. This is no sustainable. If structure in soil is a key that you focus on then you can no later brag about planting into fluffy loose soil. You made that "soil" fluffy and loose because you constantly add fluffy loose organic material to it every year. This is 100% NOT no till or even remotely close to organic. Its nonsense. Tillage does not wreck natural native soil.
Made from human sewage?
No thank you!
There is no human waste in Milorganite - it is heat-dried microorganisms. To learn more please visit: www.milorganite.com/using-milorganite/what-is-milorganite