I used to use Steam Distilled Turpentine rather than mineral spirits, Boiled Linseed oil, a small amount of Marine deck varnish and Bee's wax. Never used the iron oxide as a filler, didn't know I needed it. However, Grandma said one should always put a half pound of tobacco into the pot when heating the mixture to drive off insects when camping.
When I did my oilcloth I used cotton canvas painter's drop cloth. I didn't use Japan dryer (never heard of it). I use raw linseed oil bc I don't like boiled. Other than that, the only real noticeable difference that I did was I took my tarp, before applying anything, to the local laundromat and washed it in the hottest water and dried it on the highest temperature setting. This shrunk the fabric so well that it still holds water. I'm not saying I did a better job or anything like that but, if you shrink the fabric first (before you even cut and sew them) I think it becomes more water resistant and dries faster. Mine is an 8ft x 8ft and it dried in just 3-4 weeks. Thanks for the great video and the great follow-up video of setting it up.
When I used the boiled linsed mixture my tarp came out sticky and never fully cured. I made my last tarp / bed roll cover out of a tightly woven cotton bed sheet. I used semi transparent brown deck stain. I painted both sides each day till I could not see light through it. It dryied each day. I would reinforced each corner with a leather loop as well as the middle. I did this a quite a few years ago. It made a very light, water proof and durable tarp. I still use it for historical trekking to this day.
What a labour of love, all that sewing must have taken forever, one thing I do know about oilcloths is that they often coated both sides and in the final stages of drying they rubbed the cloth all over with a rounded smooth river stone to soften it up and make the oil cloth pliable. You must be so proud of that oilcloth, I know I would be. Cheers
Outstanding! For those making oilcloth the first time do not do what I did and substitute a Harbor Freight canvas drop cloth. The weave is so open that it will not close, and even after washing it was not usable.
HB has decent canvas tarps. I don't know if they're actually treated or not, mine are very well used. Still keeps my screen in room dry all summer long. I need to treat them, which is why I'm here.
I saw another video in which a guy made an oil cloth using turpentine as the drying agent. I thought he said it was a traditional 18th Century method. So maybe not everything was lead-based.
The first time I treated my canvas coats and overalls to make waxed canvas, I used a mixture of 1/3 boiled Linseed oil 1/3 Turpentine and 1/3 beeswax. It worked, but the stench from the turpentine took a few months to wear away. I have since used the odorless mineral spirits to replace the turpentine. The last few years I have just used boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. THe linseed oil still stinks for a while, but not as bad as turpentine, and the items are not as sticky as when beeswax was included. I may try the iron oxide next year.
Where do you get the iron oxide in a bag? Also I've heard to "cook" linseed oil down in a crock pot to about 1/2 volume and itnwill dry better than the chemically treated "boiled" linseed oil you get today. Haven't tried it, but Intend to do so soon.
I got iron oxide from Amazon. Don't cook the linseed oil that is labeled "boiled", that will create a sticky mess. The boiled linseed oil from the big box store seems to be a bit acidic, adding the iron oxide slows down the degradation of the canvas. The first tarp I made without the iron oxide didn't hold up as well as the second.
@seamus6397 , thanks for the source of the iron oxide. And for what happens if you boil boiled linseed oil. What I was saying though is if you get raw linseed oil and boil it down your self you will get a much truer product than the commercially available "boiled"(with chemical drying agent).
@@holderm6 I misunderstood what you were saying. I haven't been able to find raw linseed oil so I would be interested to see how it turns out. I would boil it outside with a fire extinguisher close at hand.
@seamus6397 it's ok, I didn't take offense, just wanted to clarify:-). My brother worked at a hardware store and got it for me years ago. It is in a metal quart can like the common boiled stuff is packaged. Just need to find that crock pot I was told was out in the garage...
I would think another option, and less fire risk, is using acrylic paint and a tight weave cloth like a good cotton sheet from a thrift store. Not period correct, but if you use the right color, no one will know unless you tell them or someone comes up and smells it.
@@munchkin5674 None. I've read his first "pilgrim"/ journey" book but other than that and a couple short clips of him giving talks at events I haven't watched anything of his.
I used to use Steam Distilled Turpentine rather than mineral spirits, Boiled Linseed oil, a small amount of Marine deck varnish and Bee's wax. Never used the iron oxide as a filler, didn't know I needed it. However, Grandma said one should always put a half pound of tobacco into the pot when heating the mixture to drive off insects when camping.
When I did my oilcloth I used cotton canvas painter's drop cloth. I didn't use Japan dryer (never heard of it). I use raw linseed oil bc I don't like boiled. Other than that, the only real noticeable difference that I did was I took my tarp, before applying anything, to the local laundromat and washed it in the hottest water and dried it on the highest temperature setting. This shrunk the fabric so well that it still holds water. I'm not saying I did a better job or anything like that but, if you shrink the fabric first (before you even cut and sew them) I think it becomes more water resistant and dries faster. Mine is an 8ft x 8ft and it dried in just 3-4 weeks. Thanks for the great video and the great follow-up video of setting it up.
When I used the boiled linsed mixture my tarp came out sticky and never fully cured. I made my last tarp / bed roll cover out of a tightly woven cotton bed sheet. I used semi transparent brown deck stain. I painted both sides each day till I could not see light through it. It dryied each day. I would reinforced each corner with a leather loop as well as the middle. I did this a quite a few years ago. It made a very light, water proof and durable tarp. I still use it for historical trekking to this day.
@@seantinsley1411 I've heard deck stain works but have never tried it. Thanks for the info!
It's hit or miss
@@FlintlockOperator deck stain is usually the same mix you have used. Linseed + lots of dillutants (spirits)
Great stuff!Thanks for sharing.
Outstanding subject
Great project, thank you so much for sharing!
Proper 🤌
Great idea, im going to try this
Best & clearest demonstration that I've seen. More later...
What a labour of love, all that sewing must have taken forever, one thing I do know about oilcloths is that they often coated both sides and in the final stages of drying they rubbed the cloth all over with a rounded smooth river stone to soften it up and make the oil cloth pliable. You must be so proud of that oilcloth, I know I would be. Cheers
@@peter-d2w I just about went crazy from stitching the grommets! That's a good point about using a stone. I'd forgotten then did that!
Another great video, thank you for putting this content up. Cool hat.
I’m surprised you weren’t at shot show to look at all the new flint lock pistols and rifles.
Outstanding!
For those making oilcloth the first time do not do what I did and substitute a Harbor Freight canvas drop cloth. The weave is so open that it will not close, and even after washing it was not usable.
@@EklonAdvant Very true! I find painters drop cloths in general to make poor tarps, oil or otherwise.
HB has decent canvas tarps. I don't know if they're actually treated or not, mine are very well used. Still keeps my screen in room dry all summer long. I need to treat them, which is why I'm here.
@maddawgnoll Same!❤
I used denatured alcohol to thin out linseed oil before I applied it to wood. Would it work as a drying agent on the cloth as well?
When I had to help my friend make this and I watched Townsend video to make it
I saw that one. Has it started disintegrating yet? I remember that he mentioned that was common.
@GenStallion no my friend it's still doing outstanding
I saw another video in which a guy made an oil cloth using turpentine as the drying agent. I thought he said it was a traditional 18th Century method. So maybe not everything was lead-based.
The first time I treated my canvas coats and overalls to make waxed canvas, I used a mixture of 1/3 boiled Linseed oil 1/3 Turpentine and 1/3 beeswax. It worked, but the stench from the turpentine took a few months to wear away. I have since used the odorless mineral spirits to replace the turpentine. The last few years I have just used boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. THe linseed oil still stinks for a while, but not as bad as turpentine, and the items are not as sticky as when beeswax was included. I may try the iron oxide next year.
Where do you get the iron oxide in a bag?
Also I've heard to "cook" linseed oil down in a crock pot to about 1/2 volume and itnwill dry better than the chemically treated "boiled" linseed oil you get today. Haven't tried it, but Intend to do so soon.
I got iron oxide from Amazon. Don't cook the linseed oil that is labeled "boiled", that will create a sticky mess. The boiled linseed oil from the big box store seems to be a bit acidic, adding the iron oxide slows down the degradation of the canvas. The first tarp I made without the iron oxide didn't hold up as well as the second.
@seamus6397 , thanks for the source of the iron oxide. And for what happens if you boil boiled linseed oil. What I was saying though is if you get raw linseed oil and boil it down your self you will get a much truer product than the commercially available "boiled"(with chemical drying agent).
@@holderm6 I misunderstood what you were saying. I haven't been able to find raw linseed oil so I would be interested to see how it turns out. I would boil it outside with a fire extinguisher close at hand.
@seamus6397 it's ok, I didn't take offense, just wanted to clarify:-). My brother worked at a hardware store and got it for me years ago. It is in a metal quart can like the common boiled stuff is packaged. Just need to find that crock pot I was told was out in the garage...
I would think another option, and less fire risk, is using acrylic paint and a tight weave cloth like a good cotton sheet from a thrift store. Not period correct, but if you use the right color, no one will know unless you tell them or someone comes up and smells it.
How many of your videos topics are you getting from the Long Hunter series that Mark Baker did?
@@munchkin5674 None. I've read his first "pilgrim"/ journey" book but other than that and a couple short clips of him giving talks at events I haven't watched anything of his.
There are some safety organizations that fear linseed oil. I will look into the old recipes, I don't scare easily.