I finally finished the broken intake valve spring repair. Had to do all of this as part of it. THANK YOU for such great commentary. Your comment at 34:45 to look for the gasket was perfect! I definitely would have missed that and made a mess. It sounded so horrible when first starting it! Thought I left a socket under the valve cover. Then the oil pumped up the tensioner and adjusters and it's smooth as silk now. The indy shop quoted $2k just to replace the spring. I replaced the tensioner while in there (it was shot) and with all the bolts and the spring and tool... about $300. NICE! Thanks again.
Iv done the full chain job on two A6s. What a waste of money. Long time subscriber here so happy to see someone else have the balls to take this on and post it on youtube.
Thank you for this video which was a great aid to helping me change my bank 2 tensioner successfully. I've never worked on an engine before but seeing how you did everything was very helpful, even if I did watch the video about 100 times! Audiworld forum thread was the other essential resource for me. I measured block 93 values in vcds and bank 2 went from intake 7.9 exhaust 4.9 on the old tensioner to 0.0/0.0 on both intake and exhaust with the new tensioner.
Great video, thank you. Used it to reseal my camshaft girdle. Did first assembly and messed up timing. Following this video made it success second time.
Where was this video about a month ago? lol I just did this on my dad's 05 A6. Both of them were toast though. Only thing I did differently was pull the oil pan and cleaned out about a hand full of broken guide bits out of the screen. Great video man.
Great recording of fantastic work. There can't be more than about 4" of work space to get to the upper chain and tensioner. I have asked local garages about doing this and they all want to pull the engine. Probably a good idea if there is any chance that the lower chain has issues or if anything else has gone bad. Nevertheless this gives great insight into the mechanics of how the top is put together and clues on diagnosing the timing and associated firing issues. Thanks for you time and effort EdgeMotors... I am likely going to do this myself. I did notice that you are using a cam sprocket hold tool that has additional threaded ends where you can move the pins. I would like to find this tool, as all I have found have exactly one set of threads. the problem that your tool solves is that there is a good chance the sprockets will be in the wrong position to get a good hold for the torque needed on the bolts, and by using a different angle (via the additional threads) this is addressed. I have a 2007 A4 3.2 with misfires, poor power and poor fuel consumption. Throwing CAM position errors and bank 2 misfires. has 140k miles on it.
Same. I have 2008 Audi A4 3.2 that just started throwing code P0340 camshaft position sensor, crank no start have yet to find the problem! Not throwing any timing related codes though.. changed the sensor no luck.
wow like fixing a F15 E all by feel, would be nice to see details of what you are doing with engine out, but you got the feel for it and know exactly what to do step x step.
I have 5 Audi's and your videos are the best out there that I trust.... I just did the upper chain tensioners on a 09 Q5.. I made it easier by pulling the motor... I have a question...do you respond to questions?
Thanks for the video! I hope folks can see this video and go to a shop like yours to get the tensioner swapped out vs an engine pull to replace the chain as some folks may get talked into.
it all depends on what is wromg with the car... some times you do need to pull the engine out.and most of the times i would suggest doing that. just because if you do not have a problem with lower chain guides YET, you might get them soon. thats just this customer did not want to spend the money for a piece of mind....
Just did a spark plug tube gasket job on my audi a6 along with new tensioners. Thanks for the info in your vid and your advice. Made things alot easier. Only thing i did different was crank the motor with no spark to prime the tensioners... been almost a month with no issues.. again thanks
This was very assuring to see that it's relatively easy to do it without having a shop drop the engine down and charge $2400. Is there any way you could tell me what kind of special tools I might need that the average home mechanic might not have? Also, I just want to do the driver side one. Is that referred to as the left or right tensioner? I'm not sure if they label it facing the towards or away from the car. Don't want to buy the wrong one.
awesome job and time saver, well done! As far as i can tell it is identical to the 3.0tfsi, with the exception that the 3.0 has the kombi valves behind the sprockets covers. So my question would be, could the kombi valves and its heat shields be removed so i can than proceed with replacing the upper chain tensioners with the engine in situ? Thanks a lot for all your awesome DIY's, this is very valuable information to the rest of us!
Thank god for your video. I was pulling my hair out trying to get the manifold off. However. I dont have the crank tool The cam tool I bought was too soft and broke. I thought I had bent valves but my intake valves are fine. Have you tried to pull the head in the car? I am attempting that now. I dont know how to get to the three header bolts by the pre cat. No tool I have fits the small space.
Got it fixed! exhaust valves were fine. wish I had a compression tool. must have been the AC pump as it squeeked bad for a while after initial repair. also note not well mentioned is #2tdc and round hole in the balancer is the tdc marker. I was off a few teeth first try. but the new tensioner is bad so I'm getting another one... its not stuck just a bad rebuild it bleeds down....
Great video! I am curious if it is possible to replace the rocker arms by loosening the camshaft caps, raising them up just enough to sneak them out? Or, is this a repair that calls for removing the engine to disassemble down to the rockers appropriately? It looks like it would be extremely difficult to remove the timing chain components and remove the camshafts without removing the engine. I had failed rockers on the left bank. The bearings in a few have gotten loose.
Quick question...I have a a6 c6 4.2 v8, and I would like to change the tensioners on that as well...is the process the same? If not, what are the differences? Thanks ...this video is one of the best Ive seen!!
i have a 2007 A4 3.2 V6 i was wondering if its worth doing this job because the car only makes timing chain noise for les then a second on cold start, right now its winter but i plan on doing my clutch and valve cover gaskets in the summer
I have never had to do one yet are they prone to go bad is there a certain model you had a A6 does the Q5 have the same issue or all 3.2l have the potential of getting worn early? Buy the way good job.
all of the 3.2l have that issue... it all depends on driving style... i have noticed that the more the car is driven, the less the chances of it happening...
Hi could you tell me if the 2 upper chains can be replaced at the same time you replaced the tensioners or they are done only when the engine is removed ? And how many hours you think is to do both tensioners on a 2010 Audi Q5 for someone that has never done one yet.
Great video. I changed my guide but when I went to hand crank it. The chain jumped a tooth. I think the chain stretched. Can you remove the chain without removing the engine?
I am leaking oil down the front of the engine. It's all over the pulleys, serpentine belt, ac compressor and alternator. There is some oil pooled up too under intake manifold. The valley I guess you can call it. What should I check first for the leak? Thx man
Thanks for this video! It is seldom you get such a detailed view of a complicated job! Btw, would it be the same work method and space for a 3.0 TDI engine (in my case in an A6 4F, BMK engine)?
Excellent video...I am doing the 2.4 BDW V6 which is essentially the same...however it does not have a camshaft adjuster on the exhaust cam, hence also a short bolt and washer...what is the torque specs for the exhaust sprocket bolt (it is shorter and will yield much quicker tna 90deg from 60ft.lbs. Hope you can help
hi, I have audi a4 3.2. It makes a tcking noise - like lifter noise. I checked the driver side tensioner and it looks brand new. No signs of any wear at all. No pieces broken, no issues. But the car makes noise and definitely not coming from the other bank. I was wondering, could it be that the hydraulic tensioner is collapsed? How far extended does it need to be? Is there a way to check?
This is great man I really like that perspective. Definitely a subscribe. I had a question my VW passat 1.8t has a little noise from What i believe is the cam shaft chain and a little leak with you can smell from the inside when ac is on.If you get one of these in can you be kind enough to put a video on like this.
Im doing this same job, except i need to replace the exhaust cam sprocket $_$. my question is, since ive never worked on an audi but i want to save $2000, my cam sprocket has some worn down teeth and im getting a full 4,5 and 6 cylinder misfire, does that mean the crankshaft has spun more than the camshaft? if so, do I need to rotate the camshaft to get the timing correct? ive seen a couple videos of this now and no one mentions having to position something correctly other than the camshaft, and in this video you locked the crankshaft. I was also told I didnt need to do that as long as I lockdown the camshaft, is that correct?
Is it a similar job in a6 c6 2.4l v6? Is the waterpump runned by the timingchain? Can you replace it without removing the engine? What about the thermostat? Cant find any info regarding 2.4l... thanks for help!
How many miles were on this car? I have a 01 GTI VR6 with about 100K miles on it. I have been reading that the guides going bad on these engines also. Any recommendations if I should change the guides and chain as preventive maintenance at a certain amount of miles or just wait until it starts making noise.
I have a 07 A6 with the 3.2 and my valve spring broke on the 5th cylinder intake valve. So Ive gotten to the point of your video shown and removed the bolts for the cam guides in the correct order but I don't want to break the top part of the head from trying to separating. What would be the safest way to separate?
Dude you rock!!! I have the same vehicle and engine type. I have leaky oil valve cover gaskets and had no clue or even a thought about changing the valve cover bolts. I will definitely buy them and replace them. Where can I purchase them. I normally purchase parts from audi online store, but they take a while to deliver. Thanks
Eddie M The valve cover bolts are attached to the valve cover which means you can't separate them.. I have this exact engine and I have to replace my valve cover gasket every 3 months because they keep leaking! Is this the same problem your having?
EJK k the valve cover bots are not attached to the valve cover... you can remove them. We do that all the time.... and the reason for your valve covers leaking every 3 month is that you never replaced the bolts...
EDGEMOTORS I'm not sure but the bolts always stay on the valve covers and the gasket clicks onto the bolts. I haven't tryed taking the bolts out but it has never came off when I replace the gasket.. What happens to the bolts that makes it nessacary to replace them everytime you take out the valve covers?
EJK k The bolts have rubber groomers on them, those groomers are the actual things that push down on the valve covers to seal them... over time the groomers crush and can't push hard enough to seal the covers...
EDGEMOTORS Gotcha. Well I just changed the gasket over the weekend so ill do this in a few months when it starts leaking again.. does WorldPac carry the bolts?
OK, thank you for answering my original question. the alternative is deactivating the cylinder. will that cause my other valves to get bent due the loss of combustion in the deactivated cylinder?
E Perry How exactly are you planing on deactivating the cylinder? Just removing the piston will not work... 1. Your engine will be crazy disbalanced 2. You have to somehow block the intake, and much harder exhaust ports 3. Just removing piston and leaving valves in place will cause all your oil to get into intake or exhaust 4. Removing piston and valves, and blocking intake and exhaust ports will create a danger of either getting the blocking material sucked in by other cylinders, falling into the crankcase... or most likely getting burned thought from exhaust side If put enough engineering thought into the project, it is possible. But is it worth it? Don't forget, even if you succeed with all the oil and balance problems, your gas mileage and power will be ridiculously bad, not even talking about many codes associated with misfires, knock sensors and so on and so on..,
Hey have a 3.2 that has codes relating to the chain at the top but if it is them i also have a misfire in 2 an 4. So from in your experience you think I have bent valves also?
Awesome video, thank you for doing it. I'm in need of this particular job and if I were in your neck of the woods i'd definitely take it to edge motors. But I'm in California and a shop today told me they'd need to pull the engine for this job. What was the cost of this job you performed with only replacing the upper tensioners? What would you think is a fair price to pull the engine and do all of them? Thanks in advance for a response.
Thanks for the video. Man, getting to those bottom-rear corner valve cover bolts in an A4 is no walk in the park, A6 looks like it's easy. Thanks also for the tip to inspect the rollers; I found one of the intake rollers (very rear on pass side) is stuck, noticed cracks on it and does not want to spin like the others, after getting it to spin you can see there is a wear mark where it's been riding on the cam. Can You (or anyone) please tell me, Is it possible to replace it without removing the cam?
I took your advice from comments on another video. I did a compression check on my 2005 A6 3.2L which had a no start following ECS light coming on. I have ~180psi on right side cylinders. Drivers side (left) cylinders have zero compression. Metallic clank noise occurring after first attempting engine crank, is likely chain and or tensioner. Thank you for pointing me to checking compression! What next? is there even a chance valves survived? Head R&R?
Take the cams out and try to pressurize the cylinders, but make sure to rotate the engine to put the piston in cylinder you about to pressurize all the way down, or the engine will rotate and may cause damage ...
+E Perry Which country you located in? I guess passing emissions inspection is not an issue for you... cause you will alway have misfire codes in there... your knock sensors will not register the explosions...
Wow, I thought my 01 VW GTI VR6 had a cramped engine compartment. I am not looking forward when I have to replace the timing chain, but it definitely looks more difficult on this engine.
Hello, would this be the same method needed to reseal the upper timing chain covers? The dealership diagnosed my oil leak and said I need to reseal them.
After seeing your video whe started ourself with this job. Today we fit in the chain tensioners on both sides . Afther turning the crankshaft 2 times around Whe notice that the new tensioners makes a little Klik Klak noice Is this correct ? Can we go on with replacing the rest Or have we don something wrong Dear regrets Henk & Maarten Netherlands
It seems that engine compartments are getting tighter and tighter. It seems that the manufactures for these tight engine compartments need to design a engine compartment where the engine can be easily removed. Maybe like a 10 step process that can be done in 20 minutes. Imagine how much easier this job would have been with the engine on sitting on a stand and the easier access to it. The technician in the video is excellent but imagine the damage of a inexperienced performing this job.
My 2005 3.2 Quattro is leaking from there do they sell just the gasket or does it come with the tensioners and housing like you changed? It's also leaking at the front passenger side in front of the valve cover it's a black cover, what is that part called?@EDGEMOTORS
Just done my A4 CALA engine timing. Never gonna do it again. My case dropped the engine and trans together. All chains and tensioners are quite good except two upper chain guide cracked. After freaked out of mine, now I see this video, this car is painful to do the job and no easy way
My Audi Q5 3.2 has a fuel rail wiring continuing after the coil pack wire - mine is the S-line - they must be different from the 3.2 you are working on - I didnt see you take off the fuel rail connections????
Question: I am seeing a lot of A3-4-6 videos of the 3.2 timing chains. But what about the 2010 A5 3.2. Does this issue still apply or is the A5's 3.2 different in the respect of "better built"
Great video !!! Quick question ... Why at the 1:02:50 mark do you put the cam locks back on and then the crank lock back in after the 2 full rotations? Did I miss the reason why?
Hoping you still read these and can help. I have 0 pressure on cylinder 4 (all others are good pressure). I put it at TDC and put both cam locks on (so still in time) . I pulled the spark plug and put a scope down and looked around and all 4 valves look closed. (turning the crank when locks removed shows the valves extending into the cylinder) So I took the timing chain cover off and the chain initially seemed tight but after pulling on it a bit, it definitely loosened up and I could pull the chain up probably a quarter inch. Prior to the loss of cylinder 4, starting the engine sometimes made the classic sound of the tensioner not tight (chain slap) but typically only when down a quart of oil. The car was running perfectly, then suddenly ran rough. Code said cyl 4 misfire, but stayed #4 even when swapping plugs and coils... so I checked pressure and 0 on #4. Do you think it's possible that the tensioner failed? Could that cause 0 pressure in #4 cylinder? I have all the tools to change the tensioner (and your excellent video) , but I'll scrap the car if it doesn't work (183k miles) , so I don't want to pay for a tensioner and have it not work. If the tensioner did fail, should I be able to compress it with my fingers while it's installed? Thx
Thanks. I did, and found that the intake valve is not closing fully. Looks like the head has to come off, so I'll be doing this job. It was confusing because my first leak down test showed no leak because it seems the valve seated again, but a second compression test followed quickly by a leakdown test showed the intake valve slightly off the seat. A question then... if my tensioner is still tight on the chain, do I have to compress it before removing the cam bolts and pulling the chain off of the sprocket? Or will the sprocket just release from the camshaft with no drama? Thx
Hi EDGEMOTORS, thank you for this useful video! I have a question relative to the cover gasket. On the video you said that we MUST replace the bolts to avoid to have an oil leaking issue. On my car, I had a leaking issue into one of the spark-plug tube, so I replaced the cover gasket but without changing the bolts... And I still have a leaking issue - even worst The difficult thing is to figure out if the leak come from the cover gasket or from the other gasket just below in the middle of the camshafts. Any advices?
Hello The reason behind replacing the bolts, is that the bolt it self is not pushing down on the valve cover and gasket to seal it. The bolt has a sleeve on it which bottoms out before the bolt reaches the valve cover, so the bolt it self never touches the valve cove, so it never compresses the gasket. There is grommets that come with the bolt which press down on the valve cover and which create pressure on the gasket to seal it. If your bolts are old, so is your grommets... They are crashed already and they will never push hard enough to seal the gasket. Thank you for doing business with Edge Motors 107 E Railroad Ave West Haverstraw NY 10993 (845)269-3846 www.EdgeMotors.com
Sergey Reznichenko thank you for your answer! I didn't expected a grommet issue. My car is about 105k miles, so yes the grommets are old and probably crashed... I will replace them!
@@yannmasoch what was the cause of your oil leak? I hear upper timing chain gasket, valve cover gasket, and oil filter housing gasket can all be causes, so this internal thing is a new idea to me. please explain it in more detail.
Great video! And you seem to know what you are doing ;) Just curius, how much time did you spend on this repair? And another question Do you think liquimoly is a better oil than Castrol? I've alway ran my E46 (m54b22) on Castrol Magnatec 5W30 but switched to Liquimoly 5W40 this fall. I think the valvetrain and chain is got noisier now on on the new oil. Always used MANN filter and the car has 22.000km on it. Again, great video and thank you!
Hi! I have the same problem with my a6 3.2 fsi. But all my tensioners looks fine, so I think my chain is streched. Is it possible to changs the chain whitout pulling out the engine? Thank you for the great videos and sorry for my english :)
@@EDGEMOTORSNo I dont have the tools yet. But the tensioner is fine and I have faulty cam sensor on bank 2 but I have changed both sensor and no diffrent, missfire on cylinder 4 and 6 and I got 17-22 bar kompresion in cylinder 4-6. So I think my chain have skipped one jug. Bank 1 sems to work fine. Thanks for quick answer :)
Well not really it don’t mean that, it could be allot of things, starting with cam adjustment solenoids, oil pressure and cam adjusters them selves... I would try to swap the solenoids first and see if the problem will follow...
@@EDGEMOTORS allready tried that and I have cleaned the intake ports and the crankcase ventilation and the egr. Is it some think else I should cheak before doing the chain job?
The tripple square tool used for the cam adjuster bolts - do you have to order the Audi tool, or can you use a normal triple square from a set? And do you know what size it is? Thanks
after replacing passenger side tensioner cam lock when on smooth. it was hard to take off and it seems to be out of line. it didn't move much but enough so the bolt wont go back in.
You're the best because you just straight up fix them and not give a story about audi because that's all I ever got and I went to 2 audi specialist one tried to charge me close to six grand and the other didn't even look at my car and he had it the whole day I had an 2001 A6 2.7t
Is this a complete timing chain replacement or just some of the parts? What I've read it's a engine out job but you seen to be doing it without any problems with engine still in.
Thank you for your reply! If you get any cam position/correlation DTCs that mean the chains are stretched and everything needs to be replaced? This repair is only good for when they break and everything else is OK?
No, if you get those codes, most likely there is either a chain tensioner or a guide broken or a solenoid problem, Try to swap the cam adjuster soleoids and see if the code follows.... if not take the upper chain cover off and inspect the tensioner, set the engine on timing marks and see if they line up....
hi serge, is there any way to replace a piston on this car without removing the engine. I don't have enough compression on cylinder 3 because of a timing tensioner meltdown. Valve head broke off in cylinder and scratched walls bad. the pistons was angled toward 1 side of the wall allowing are to escape behind the piston. I was thinking of disabling that cylinder. I removed both heads and did a valve job. before I installed the cams, I did a compression test to see if compression held but the pistons the culprit.. I'm tapped out and need to know if this is doable. thanks
E Perry What exactly are you asking? If you can disable the cylinder? Not really.... you will not be able to take the piston out without removal of the engine, or transmission.... the upper oil pan that holds the crankshaft is bolted under the transmission.... to fix that damage, you will have to remove the engine to resleve it
EDGEMOTORS thank you so much for your reply, i just need the passenger side to be adjusted because the timing chain tensioner was broken bad and it look that on the the camshafts jumped a tooth or two the driver side is perfect and you can put the cam locking tool without any problem
When you turn the crankshaft, are you still in park or neutral, and can i leave the belt on? I bought a 3.2l C6 with a no start condition and found no oil. I just want to know that the engine is not seized before I keep working on this car. Please help.
I finally finished the broken intake valve spring repair. Had to do all of this as part of it.
THANK YOU for such great commentary. Your comment at 34:45 to look for the gasket was perfect! I definitely would have missed that and made a mess.
It sounded so horrible when first starting it! Thought I left a socket under the valve cover. Then the oil pumped up the tensioner and adjusters and it's smooth as silk now. The indy shop quoted $2k just to replace the spring. I replaced the tensioner while in there (it was shot) and with all the bolts and the spring and tool... about $300. NICE!
Thanks again.
After watching you work on cars I wouldn't mind paying what ever you charge. Great work sir.
John Dows
Iv done the full chain job on two A6s. What a waste of money. Long time subscriber here so happy to see someone else have the balls to take this on and post it on youtube.
why was it a waste of money?
Honestly, I don't even need to do this, but I watched the whole thing. Amazing video! Your tips are fantastic!
Watched this video 2 yrs ago and still come back to it for reference. Great Video on how to do this job.
Safe to say one of the best tutorials I've watched yet, helped me out a lot!
Thank you sir!
Thank you for this video which was a great aid to helping me change my bank 2 tensioner successfully. I've never worked on an engine before but seeing how you did everything was very helpful, even if I did watch the video about 100 times! Audiworld forum thread was the other essential resource for me. I measured block 93 values in vcds and bank 2 went from intake 7.9 exhaust 4.9 on the old tensioner to 0.0/0.0 on both intake and exhaust with the new tensioner.
Very well explained, so far, the best video I could find on TH-cam about this subject.
Thank you, brother!
To EdgeMotors>>> you are the Best,, this tutorial helped me do something I would never attempt to.. keep up the good work!!! and thx again
baki4king I'm going to try this and I've also never worked on an engine. Did you learn anything worth passing on pls?
Great video, thank you. Used it to reseal my camshaft girdle. Did first assembly and messed up timing. Following this video made it success second time.
Where was this video about a month ago? lol I just did this on my dad's 05 A6. Both of them were toast though. Only thing I did differently was pull the oil pan and cleaned out about a hand full of broken guide bits out of the screen. Great video man.
Great recording of fantastic work. There can't be more than about 4" of work space to get to the upper chain and tensioner. I have asked local garages about doing this and they all want to pull the engine. Probably a good idea if there is any chance that the lower chain has issues or if anything else has gone bad. Nevertheless this gives great insight into the mechanics of how the top is put together and clues on diagnosing the timing and associated firing issues. Thanks for you time and effort EdgeMotors... I am likely going to do this myself.
I did notice that you are using a cam sprocket hold tool that has additional threaded ends where you can move the pins. I would like to find this tool, as all I have found have exactly one set of threads. the problem that your tool solves is that there is a good chance the sprockets will be in the wrong position to get a good hold for the torque needed on the bolts, and by using a different angle (via the additional threads) this is addressed.
I have a 2007 A4 3.2 with misfires, poor power and poor fuel consumption. Throwing CAM position errors and bank 2 misfires. has 140k miles on it.
Same. I have 2008 Audi A4 3.2 that just started throwing code P0340 camshaft position sensor, crank no start have yet to find the problem! Not throwing any timing related codes though.. changed the sensor no luck.
wow like fixing a F15 E all by feel, would be nice to see details of what you are doing with engine out, but you got the feel for it and know exactly what to do step x step.
I have 5 Audi's and your videos are the best out there that I trust.... I just did the upper chain tensioners on a 09 Q5.. I made it easier by pulling the motor... I have a question...do you respond to questions?
Once in a while, been very busy for some time…
Great video! Thank you for taking the time to shoot and great video editing.
Thanks for the video! I hope folks can see this video and go to a shop like yours to get the tensioner swapped out vs an engine pull to replace the chain as some folks may get talked into.
it all depends on what is wromg with the car... some times you do need to pull the engine out.and most of the times i would suggest doing that. just because if you do not have a problem with lower chain guides YET, you might get them soon. thats just this customer did not want to spend the money for a piece of mind....
best video i have seen. Explained with no drama. Thank you.
Wow now I’m having second thoughts about getting an A6 from watching this video...
I'm trying to get rid of my A4 with the 3.2 motor. The car is garbage!
It all depends on the driving style, and maintanance...
Love my A6
@@EveryDayLifeChannel9777 what's wrong with it
Awesome video, thank you for the high level of detail.
Just did a spark plug tube gasket job on my audi a6 along with new tensioners. Thanks for the info in your vid and your advice. Made things alot easier. Only thing i did different was crank the motor with no spark to prime the tensioners... been almost a month with no issues.. again thanks
excellent mechanic, great job you make it look so easy, thanx
Das beste Video um Audi blank zu machen, Audiservicecenter says you must an new engine
Fantastic job man, you made it look easy
This was very assuring to see that it's relatively easy to do it without having a shop drop the engine down and charge $2400. Is there any way you could tell me what kind of special tools I might need that the average home mechanic might not have? Also, I just want to do the driver side one. Is that referred to as the left or right tensioner? I'm not sure if they label it facing the towards or away from the car. Don't want to buy the wrong one.
awesome job and time saver, well done! As far as i can tell it is identical to the 3.0tfsi, with the exception that the 3.0 has the kombi valves behind the sprockets covers. So my question would be, could the kombi valves and its heat shields be removed so i can than proceed with replacing the upper chain tensioners with the engine in situ? Thanks a lot for all your awesome DIY's, this is very valuable information to the rest of us!
Yes you will have to remove the valves, and to remove them you will need to remove the cats....
Salut Mihai la ce masina faci asta ? am un a6 2010 3.0 T probabil trebuie sa dau cats jos ?
Hi Mate, wonderful work, can you replace the seals for timing chain covers without opening anything from under the car. Thanks
Thank god for your video. I was pulling my hair out trying to get the manifold off. However. I dont have the crank tool The cam tool I bought was too soft and broke. I thought I had bent valves but my intake valves are fine. Have you tried to pull the head in the car? I am attempting that now. I dont know how to get to the three header bolts by the pre cat. No tool I have fits the small space.
Got it fixed! exhaust valves were fine. wish I had a compression tool. must have been the AC pump as it squeeked bad for a while after initial repair. also note not well mentioned is #2tdc and round hole in the balancer is the tdc marker. I was off a few teeth first try. but the new tensioner is bad so I'm getting another one... its not stuck just a bad rebuild it bleeds down....
Dayum! Now I know why it costs $4-5k to get a timing chain changed....
The whole engine needs to come out!
Great video! I am curious if it is possible to replace the rocker arms by loosening the camshaft caps, raising them up just enough to sneak them out? Or, is this a repair that calls for removing the engine to disassemble down to the rockers appropriately? It looks like it would be extremely difficult to remove the timing chain components and remove the camshafts without removing the engine. I had failed rockers on the left bank. The bearings in a few have gotten loose.
He's awesome,I wish I was good with cars,all I can do is change a tire an pour oil in an drive....I pray my timing belt or chain didn't break on my A4
Shit good job, I was about to buy c6 3.2l today...not anymore if it was ab avant I'd do it but can't say I'd have the patience to tackle this job.
Quick question...I have a a6 c6 4.2 v8, and I would like to change the tensioners on that as well...is the process the same? If not, what are the differences? Thanks ...this video is one of the best Ive seen!!
youre the best on the internet !!!!
i have a 2007 A4 3.2 V6 i was wondering if its worth doing this job because the car only makes timing chain noise for les then a second on cold start, right now its winter but i plan on doing my clutch and valve cover gaskets in the summer
I have never had to do one yet are they prone to go bad is there a certain model you had a A6 does the Q5 have the same issue or all 3.2l have the potential of getting worn early? Buy the way good job.
all of the 3.2l have that issue... it all depends on driving style... i have noticed that the more the car is driven, the less the chances of it happening...
Hi could you tell me if the 2 upper chains can be replaced at the same time you replaced the tensioners or they are done only when the engine is removed ? And how many hours you think is to do both tensioners on a 2010 Audi Q5 for someone that has never done one yet.
Great video. I changed my guide but when I went to hand crank it. The chain jumped a tooth. I think the chain stretched. Can you remove the chain without removing the engine?
Your tensioner may not be reset, it should not compress that far to let the chain jump
I am leaking oil down the front of the engine. It's all over the pulleys, serpentine belt, ac compressor and alternator. There is some oil pooled up too under intake manifold. The valley I guess you can call it. What should I check first for the leak? Thx man
Thanks for this video! It is seldom you get such a detailed view of a complicated job!
Btw, would it be the same work method and space for a 3.0 TDI engine (in my case in an A6 4F, BMK engine)?
Amazingly helpful. Thank you so much!
Excellent video...I am doing the 2.4 BDW V6 which is essentially the same...however it does not have a camshaft adjuster on the exhaust cam, hence also a short bolt and washer...what is the torque specs for the exhaust sprocket bolt (it is shorter and will yield much quicker tna 90deg from 60ft.lbs. Hope you can help
hi, I have audi a4 3.2. It makes a tcking noise - like lifter noise. I checked the driver side tensioner and it looks brand new. No signs of any wear at all. No pieces broken, no issues. But the car makes noise and definitely not coming from the other bank. I was wondering, could it be that the hydraulic tensioner is collapsed? How far extended does it need to be? Is there a way to check?
This is great man I really like that perspective. Definitely a subscribe. I had a question my VW passat 1.8t has a little noise from What i believe is the cam shaft chain and a little leak with you can smell from the inside when ac is on.If you get one of these in can you be kind enough to put a video on like this.
Im doing this same job, except i need to replace the exhaust cam sprocket $_$. my question is, since ive never worked on an audi but i want to save $2000, my cam sprocket has some worn down teeth and im getting a full 4,5 and 6 cylinder misfire, does that mean the crankshaft has spun more than the camshaft? if so, do I need to rotate the camshaft to get the timing correct? ive seen a couple videos of this now and no one mentions having to position something correctly other than the camshaft, and in this video you locked the crankshaft. I was also told I didnt need to do that as long as I lockdown the camshaft, is that correct?
Looks easy i'm impressed I have the same car with the same problem if you in NY please let me know?
I know this video is old. But what specialty tools did you use for this job? For removing gears and locking cams?
Is it a similar job in a6 c6 2.4l v6? Is the waterpump runned by the timingchain? Can you replace it without removing the engine? What about the thermostat? Cant find any info regarding 2.4l... thanks for help!
Nice job, thanx for the video! How long does it take for you to do this whole procedure from start to finnish?
Jouni Backman it all depends on my mood... but anywhere from 3-5 hours....
How many miles were on this car? I have a 01 GTI VR6 with about 100K miles on it. I have been reading that the guides going bad on these engines also. Any recommendations if I should change the guides and chain as preventive maintenance at a certain amount of miles or just wait until it starts making noise.
I have a 07 A6 with the 3.2 and my valve spring broke on the 5th cylinder intake valve. So Ive gotten to the point of your video shown and removed the bolts for the cam guides in the correct order but I don't want to break the top part of the head from trying to separating. What would be the safest way to separate?
Dude you rock!!! I have the same vehicle and engine type. I have leaky oil valve cover gaskets and had no clue or even a thought about changing the valve cover bolts. I will definitely buy them and replace them. Where can I purchase them. I normally purchase parts from audi online store, but they take a while to deliver. Thanks
Eddie M The valve cover bolts are attached to the valve cover which means you can't separate them.. I have this exact engine and I have to replace my valve cover gasket every 3 months because they keep leaking! Is this the same problem your having?
EJK k the valve cover bots are not attached to the valve cover... you can remove them. We do that all the time.... and the reason for your valve covers leaking every 3 month is that you never replaced the bolts...
EDGEMOTORS I'm not sure but the bolts always stay on the valve covers and the gasket clicks onto the bolts. I haven't tryed taking the bolts out but it has never came off when I replace the gasket.. What happens to the bolts that makes it nessacary to replace them everytime you take out the valve covers?
EJK k
The bolts have rubber groomers on them, those groomers are the actual things that push down on the valve covers to seal them... over time the groomers crush and can't push hard enough to seal the covers...
EDGEMOTORS Gotcha. Well I just changed the gasket over the weekend so ill do this in a few months when it starts leaking again.. does WorldPac carry the bolts?
OK, thank you for answering my original question. the alternative is deactivating the cylinder. will that cause my other valves to get bent due the loss of combustion in the deactivated cylinder?
E Perry
How exactly are you planing on deactivating the cylinder?
Just removing the piston will not work...
1. Your engine will be crazy disbalanced
2. You have to somehow block the intake, and much harder exhaust ports
3. Just removing piston and leaving valves in place will cause all your oil to get into intake or exhaust
4. Removing piston and valves, and blocking intake and exhaust ports will create a danger of either getting the blocking material sucked in by other cylinders, falling into the crankcase... or most likely getting burned thought from exhaust side
If put enough engineering thought into the project, it is possible. But is it worth it?
Don't forget, even if you succeed with all the oil and balance problems, your gas mileage and power will be ridiculously bad, not even talking about many codes associated with misfires, knock sensors and so on and so on..,
Hey bud?
I have one with blown head gasket, can I do it the same way you doing it?
Hey have a 3.2 that has codes relating to the chain at the top but if it is them i also have a misfire in 2 an 4. So from in your experience you think I have bent valves also?
Awesome video, thank you for doing it. I'm in need of this particular job and if I were in your neck of the woods i'd definitely take it to edge motors. But I'm in California and a shop today told me they'd need to pull the engine for this job. What was the cost of this job you performed with only replacing the upper tensioners? What would you think is a fair price to pull the engine and do all of them? Thanks in advance for a response.
Thanks for the video. Man, getting to those bottom-rear corner valve cover bolts in an A4 is no walk in the park, A6 looks like it's easy.
Thanks also for the tip to inspect the rollers; I found one of the intake rollers (very rear on pass side) is stuck, noticed cracks on it and does not want to spin like the others, after getting it to spin you can see there is a wear mark where it's been riding on the cam. Can You (or anyone) please tell me, Is it possible to replace it without removing the cam?
I took your advice from comments on another video. I did a compression check on my 2005 A6 3.2L which had a no start following ECS light coming on. I have ~180psi on right side cylinders. Drivers side (left) cylinders have zero compression. Metallic clank noise occurring after first attempting engine crank, is likely chain and or tensioner. Thank you for pointing me to checking compression! What next? is there even a chance valves survived? Head R&R?
Take the cams out and try to pressurize the cylinders, but make sure to rotate the engine to put the piston in cylinder you about to pressurize all the way down, or the engine will rotate and may cause damage ...
EDGEMOTORS ok. Looks like pulling intake, timing covers, synchronizers and chains to get cams off?
What size is that triple square cam bolts please? Great watch. Cheers
thanks for your videos,you are a really good technician,
i am always trying to become better, but there is no such thing as THE BEST.. so i try to do "my best"
thanks a lot, I have a theory. I was worried about bending the other valves in the process. it was a headache getting the left cylinder head off.
+E Perry
Which country you located in? I guess passing emissions inspection is not an issue for you...
cause you will alway have misfire codes in there... your knock sensors will not register the explosions...
Wow, I thought my 01 VW GTI VR6 had a cramped engine compartment. I am not looking forward when I have to replace the timing chain, but it definitely looks more difficult on this engine.
Great video AAA
After everything was installed and engine was turned by hand 2 revolutions why you have to put cam/crank locks back on ?
Mamoon Asender this is to check and verify that the cams and crank are still fully in alignment. It doesn't take very long at all
Hello, would this be the same method needed to reseal the upper timing chain covers? The dealership diagnosed my oil leak and said I need to reseal them.
After seeing your video whe started ourself with this job.
Today we fit in the chain tensioners on both sides .
Afther turning the crankshaft 2 times around
Whe notice that the new tensioners makes a little Klik Klak noice
Is this correct ?
Can we go on with replacing the rest
Or have we don something wrong
Dear regrets
Henk & Maarten
Netherlands
Hey! How are you there? with what you ended up?
EdgeMotors Do u guys have a video on how to replace fuel injectors on a 2006 audi a4 2.0t fsi
Look for our 2.0fsi Carbon deposit cleaning video. That's pretty much the same thing.
Awesome video! You have anything on changing the the Oil Pressure Switch/Sender for the 3.2? Can't find anyone talking about the 3.2 other then you!
Hi, is it same way on Q5 (CALB) or i have take engine down?
thank you
It seems that engine compartments are getting tighter and tighter. It seems that the manufactures for these tight engine compartments need to design a engine compartment where the engine can be easily removed. Maybe like a 10 step process that can be done in 20 minutes. Imagine how much easier this job would have been with the engine on sitting on a stand and the easier access to it. The technician in the video is excellent but imagine the damage of a inexperienced performing this job.
pretty much what the dealers have
Would it be easier just to remove the engine block?
How many hours the job takes to be completed? thank you and really good video !!!!
My 2005 3.2 Quattro is leaking from there do they sell just the gasket or does it come with the tensioners and housing like you changed? It's also leaking at the front passenger side in front of the valve cover it's a black cover, what is that part called?@EDGEMOTORS
great videos very detailed keep up the good work,
Just done my A4 CALA engine timing. Never gonna do it again. My case dropped the engine and trans together. All chains and tensioners are quite good except two upper chain guide cracked. After freaked out of mine, now I see this video, this car is painful to do the job and no easy way
Just another Great video! I can't thank you enough.
My Audi Q5 3.2 has a fuel rail wiring continuing after the coil pack wire - mine is the S-line - they must be different from the 3.2 you are working on - I didnt see you take off the fuel rail connections????
If the thicking noise is only when you start the car for 30seconds it is normal or upper chains are need to be done?
Does this apply to 2006 A4 3.2? Or does the engine have to come out because of the smaller engine compartment??
How many hours of labor was this for you to complete back to a running motor?
Question: I am seeing a lot of A3-4-6 videos of the 3.2 timing chains. But what about the 2010 A5 3.2. Does this issue still apply or is the A5's 3.2 different in the respect of "better built"
Yes the timing chains are different, and not as many problems...
Great video !!! Quick question ... Why at the 1:02:50 mark do you put the cam locks back on and then the crank lock back in after the 2 full rotations? Did I miss the reason why?
+David Ebert that was done to check if the engine is timed properly...
Hoping you still read these and can help. I have 0 pressure on cylinder 4 (all others are good pressure). I put it at TDC and put both cam locks on (so still in time) . I pulled the spark plug and put a scope down and looked around and all 4 valves look closed. (turning the crank when locks removed shows the valves extending into the cylinder) So I took the timing chain cover off and the chain initially seemed tight but after pulling on it a bit, it definitely loosened up and I could pull the chain up probably a quarter inch.
Prior to the loss of cylinder 4, starting the engine sometimes made the classic sound of the tensioner not tight (chain slap) but typically only when down a quart of oil.
The car was running perfectly, then suddenly ran rough. Code said cyl 4 misfire, but stayed #4 even when swapping plugs and coils... so I checked pressure and 0 on #4.
Do you think it's possible that the tensioner failed? Could that cause 0 pressure in #4 cylinder? I have all the tools to change the tensioner (and your excellent video) , but I'll scrap the car if it doesn't work (183k miles) , so I don't want to pay for a tensioner and have it not work. If the tensioner did fail, should I be able to compress it with my fingers while it's installed?
Thx
Timing chain would of affected more than one cylinder...
do a leak down test and see what’s faulty...
Thanks. I did, and found that the intake valve is not closing fully. Looks like the head has to come off, so I'll be doing this job. It was confusing because my first leak down test showed no leak because it seems the valve seated again, but a second compression test followed quickly by a leakdown test showed the intake valve slightly off the seat.
A question then... if my tensioner is still tight on the chain, do I have to compress it before removing the cam bolts and pulling the chain off of the sprocket? Or will the sprocket just release from the camshaft with no drama?
Thx
Can you just take the covers off and replace the tensioner without taking the valve covers off or moving anything else ?
No, you can not remove tensioners with camshaft adjusters in place.
You're a life saver!
Hi EDGEMOTORS, thank you for this useful video!
I have a question relative to the cover gasket. On the video you said that we MUST replace the bolts to avoid to have an oil leaking issue.
On my car, I had a leaking issue into one of the spark-plug tube, so I replaced the cover gasket but without changing the bolts... And I still have a leaking issue - even worst
The difficult thing is to figure out if the leak come from the cover gasket or from the other gasket just below in the middle of the camshafts.
Any advices?
Hello
The reason behind replacing the bolts, is that the bolt it self is not pushing down on the valve cover and gasket to seal it. The bolt has a sleeve on it which bottoms out before the bolt reaches the valve cover, so the bolt it self never touches the valve cove, so it never compresses the gasket. There is grommets that come with the bolt which press down on the valve cover and which create pressure on the gasket to seal it. If your bolts are old, so is your grommets... They are crashed already and they will never push hard enough to seal the gasket.
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Sergey Reznichenko thank you for your answer! I didn't expected a grommet issue. My car is about 105k miles, so yes the grommets are old and probably crashed... I will replace them!
@@yannmasoch what was the cause of your oil leak? I hear upper timing chain gasket, valve cover gasket, and oil filter housing gasket can all be causes, so this internal thing is a new idea to me. please explain it in more detail.
Does A5 3.2 FSI have this common problem too?
I have a 08 a5 3.2 and 2
1 guide is broke. On left side .Do you know if the tensioner are the same as this one. Mines is a quattro
Great video! And you seem to know what you are doing ;) Just curius, how much time did you spend on this repair?
And another question Do you think liquimoly is a better oil than Castrol? I've alway ran my E46 (m54b22) on Castrol Magnatec 5W30 but switched to Liquimoly 5W40 this fall. I think the valvetrain and chain is got noisier now on on the new oil. Always used MANN filter and the car has 22.000km on it.
Again, great video and thank you!
i never noticed any differences between the two... both good oils.
Thanks for the answer! Maybe the cold starts is taking its toll on the engine.
Hi! I have the same problem with my a6 3.2 fsi. But all my tensioners looks fine, so I think my chain is streched. Is it possible to changs the chain whitout pulling out the engine? Thank you for the great videos and sorry for my english :)
No, you will have to pull the engine to do the chain, why do you think it attached? Did you put the engine on timing marks?
@@EDGEMOTORSNo I dont have the tools yet. But the tensioner is fine and I have faulty cam sensor on bank 2 but I have changed both sensor and no diffrent, missfire on cylinder 4 and 6 and I got 17-22 bar kompresion in cylinder 4-6. So I think my chain have skipped one jug. Bank 1 sems to work fine. Thanks for quick answer :)
Well not really it don’t mean that, it could be allot of things, starting with cam adjustment solenoids, oil pressure and cam adjusters them selves... I would try to swap the solenoids first and see if the problem will follow...
@@EDGEMOTORS allready tried that and I have cleaned the intake ports and the crankcase ventilation and the egr. Is it some think else I should cheak before doing the chain job?
Well it’s impossible for me to tell what’s wrong without seeing the car...
The tripple square tool used for the cam adjuster bolts - do you have to order the Audi tool, or can you use a normal triple square from a set? And do you know what size it is? Thanks
Don’t remember what size it is, but it’s a regular triple square...
@@EDGEMOTORS thanks!
Do you change the cam sprocket bolts for new ones also?
i have audi q5 3.2 engine code CALB ..wich tool kit i should use to hold camshafts? not able to found thanks
after replacing passenger side tensioner cam lock when on smooth. it was hard to take off and it seems to be out of line. it didn't move much but enough so the bolt wont go back in.
yes the reseal consists of removing timing chain covers, cleaning the surfaces and applying new sealant to them.
You're the best because you just straight up fix them and not give a story about audi because that's all I ever got and I went to 2 audi specialist one tried to charge me close to six grand and the other didn't even look at my car and he had it the whole day I had an 2001 A6 2.7t
Does the reseal solve the leaks I'm having in that area of the engine? I replaced the valve covers already
Well if that’s the covers that leaking and the job done properly, it should
EDGEMOTORS so just regular rtv? Same like doing any other seal? How manageable is it in that tight space?
Use good silicon regular rtv will leak
Is this a complete timing chain replacement or just some of the parts? What I've read it's a engine out job but you seen to be doing it without any problems with engine still in.
This is only the upper tensioners, to take any of the chains out, you have to pull the motor
Thank you for your reply! If you get any cam position/correlation DTCs that mean the chains are stretched and everything needs to be replaced? This repair is only good for when they break and everything else is OK?
No, if you get those codes, most likely there is either a chain tensioner or a guide broken or a solenoid problem,
Try to swap the cam adjuster soleoids and see if the code follows.... if not take the upper chain cover off and inspect the tensioner, set the engine on timing marks and see if they line up....
hi serge,
is there any way to replace a piston on this car without removing the engine.
I don't have enough compression on cylinder 3 because of a timing tensioner meltdown. Valve head broke off in cylinder and scratched walls bad. the pistons was angled toward 1 side of the wall allowing are to escape behind the piston.
I was thinking of disabling that cylinder. I removed both heads and did a valve job. before I installed the cams, I did a compression test to see if compression held but the pistons the culprit.. I'm tapped out and need to know if this is doable.
thanks
E Perry
What exactly are you asking? If you can disable the cylinder? Not really.... you will not be able to take the piston out without removal of the engine, or transmission.... the upper oil pan that holds the crankshaft is bolted under the transmission.... to fix that damage, you will have to remove the engine to resleve it
Hi there im wondering if you need to adjust passenger side camshaft can you do that without locking the engine with the pin underneath the car ?
Sure you could. But that would be the only way to make sure you undistinguished it properly....
EDGEMOTORS thank you so much for your reply, i just need the passenger side to be adjusted because the timing chain tensioner was broken bad and it look that on the the camshafts jumped a tooth or two the driver side is perfect and you can put the cam locking tool without any problem
When you turn the crankshaft, are you still in park or neutral, and can i leave the belt on? I bought a 3.2l C6 with a no start condition and found no oil. I just want to know that the engine is not seized before I keep working on this car. Please help.
Sure you could turn the engine in park or neutral, and have the belt on.
if the left side cams are in time and the cams are locke, does the crank need to be locked or wouldn't the left cam hold it in place?
How do you know they in time if you didn’t put the crank lock bolt in?
on the one im currently doing the guides are not broken but the passenger side tensioner piston i can move in and out with my finger
Wondering of there are any good Audi engines out there.
I have 06 a6 an I'm having trouble trying to get the camshaft out to replace the rocker arms