I love the army painter set. I bought the mega set, 50 colors for about $90 usd. I also found in addition to the agitator ball put a couple drops of flow aid in there really improved my paints.
Thanks for this suggestion. I am about to go through adding agitators to the same set. I'll be following your advice with the flow aid. I've been using several of the paints already and some, even after vigorous shaking sessions, are still rather paste-like. :)
I bought some hematite beads locally. Just make sure they are real solid hematite. Not compressed hematite. Compressed ones wont rust but can fall apart over time I hear.
Great to see someone noticing the army painter range, I bought the zombiecide sets a few years ago and as nice as the citadel paints are I actually prefer and buy army painter stuff for the majority of my paints and washes, very cool to see a hobbyist use the same stuff as I usually use
The Zombicide set seems to have a nice collection of colors in it. I have an Army Painter Super Hobby Set and am consider rounding it out with a Zombicide set.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I often recommend Army Painter paints. Good bottles, good price, and good pigment and viscosity. Plus their color match system is brilliant.
I have the Mega set and use it daily. You are correct, agitators are a must!! Otherwise medium comes to the top and paints are way too thin. I do love the range of colors!
The paints look great! Army painter has a neat little pamphlet that is with their displays in my area and it is free.... has a lot of nice tips and tricks too...
I LOVE their Dragon Red for Blood Angels. Also a word on fixings going too heavy on the spray primer, a dunk in Cutex Ultra powerful from Amazon for like 5ish seconds takes the stuff right off just gotta be careful not to leave it in too long or the plastic will start dissolving (obviously). Also Army Painter's customer service is fast and really top notch.
@@janbiela8596 the cutex is a "brute force" method of stripping that I go to when i want to do it fast or the more gentle method just isn't working. The more gentle method is to soak in simple green, windex, or denatured alcohol for 8 hours, a day, a week (haven't had issues with them reacting to the plastic) then use an old toothbrush to clear the paint away. I've also heard good things about soda blasting but never tried it myself.
I found those nail varnish bottle shakers a month ago (before I found this video) and they're great. And I'm awaiting an order for Army Painter agitator balls to arrive! Good to know I'm on the right track in my return to the hobby ☺
Thanks for this! I'm getting back into painting after a 2 decade hiatus, and opted for Army Painter kit. I think the whisper quiet shaker is what I need to deal with my only criticism of their paints :) I was afraid to try the drown-in-wash step of their method, but it looks like with a bit of touching up it gives a great final piece. Will have to take the plunge and try it.
The agitators in the pots have made a big difference across all the ranges I use - it's kinda surprising I hadn't thought of the shaker earlier! Army Painter also offer two clear mediums, one for paint and one for their washes, so you could soften the shading effect and probably get a much smoother finish before highlighting and tidying up. Something to try next time!
After coming back to the hobby after a decade+ long break, I picked up AP paints just because it was all I could easily get a hold of around me. After some more experimenting with the modern Citadel, I actually found I prefer the AP just because it's closer to the old hex-pot Citadel than the modern lines of base and layers. That's not a knock on Citadel modern at all, just that it behaves different than I like for my style of painting whereas the AP paints are perfect for me.
I have the Army Painter sprays and I have used them on my armor models and they do cover quite well. I like the Desert Yellow and Uniform Grey. I have not used the bottle versions but I think I will try a couple of them myself. I appreciate the review and I am looking forward to you reviewing their other products as well. Thanks for sharing this neat tutorial as it was very helpful.
If it helps, I've really been enjoying the wash medium they've got. They do a paint mixing medium and a wash one as well, which has a strange, slightly cloudy consistency when mixed with other stuff, but it dries really smoothly. It's been a great thinner for the Strong Tone and I'm going to give it a shot with some paint mixed in and see if I can't make my own coloured shades with it. Really digging these new paints in the toolbox!
Stainless steel nuts are good agitators as balls can sometimes act as stoppers in the neck of the bottle and stop paint flow and the holes in the nuts & shape prevents this. Cheap too.
It's a pretty convincing video to at least look at AP colours the next time I'm out shopping! The coverage looks so good, and if it's that consistent, I can think of a bunch of colours I'd much rather get from Army Painter. I'm a little disappointed on the pooling present from the Quickshade, but that might just be my preference for Agrax Earthshade showing.
The pooling might be mitigated from thinning with a little water or some of their own wash medium; putting it on as thick as I did might be more my problem than the wash itself! I might also have been better off using the Soft Tone rather than Strong Tone, but this is all part of messing around and learning with them. That Tanned Flesh went on unbelievably smoothly, though - might end up replacing Bugman's Glow as my go-to for basing skin tones like this!
I found the AP washes are a.) really potent and b.) need to be used with a light hand. The first couple times I used them I slapped it on like old GW washes and got similar results. After tweaking my methods by thinning and/or being more selective of where I deposited washes and/or wicking away pooling, I no longer have problems. They do behave differently than GW washes. Those go on a lot "faster" because they pool much less. I mostly use the AP ones because I prefer more potent colors I can manipulate more, but to each their own. :)
Thanks! This helps a lot when window shopping for paints. I have been thinking of grabbing some Army Painter Paints because they just have a better range of colours than Citadel does, as well as a better price point here in the US.
That's ultimately part of what informed the decision to go ahead with these videos. Army Painter's roughly half the price here compared to Citadel, too. Are they half the quality? Certainly not. They've also got a bunch of colours that slot neatly in gaps in other ranges, too - their bruised reds and purples are fantastic.
I've got some replacement parts coming for a resin 3D printer so I can start doing more of that. Rangers of the Shadow Deep has everybody asking about evil critters and the like, so I figure I might swerve in that direction a bit. ;D
I always like to try new products; It's easy to get stuck in patterns, especially with the price of some of these things but it's universally worth it. ~ In the long run, it can turn out to be more economical too.
Good stuff. I am a fan of GW& Vallejo, but these seem to be a good product also. I DO like the dropper style bottles. Thanks for an honest & detailed review. Always like your posts/ trust your views& opinions. Thanks
They've been a real surprise! There's a couple that are still slightly thin, but they're the lighter colours you'd usually expect not to cover perfectly anyhow. I'm going to have some fun playing with the rest of the range - the reds and purples Army Painter do are really nice!
I've actually been really surprised by the brushes. I wasn't expecting them to be as good as they have been! In particular I really like the wedge tip on their drybrushes, that's a neat touch.
Awesome video! Loved it actually- you had me at 'Whisper quiet!!' Lol Hope your noggin is doing alright, mate! Honestly didn't even notice any ums or ehs.
It's a status thing really. We make really solid paints at insanely good prices, and we've developed a system to make painting easier for new or less skilled painters. So maybe it's an elitist mentality, but we're proud of our products and proud to support not only painters, but gaming! We're gamers first and foremost, total nerds, so we make paint for gamers and we don't believe in #paintshaming.
Dank deinem Video kann ich mir in Zukunft viele Schmerzen in den Ellebogengelenken ersparen ;)))) denn durch dein Video bin ich erst auf die Idee gekommen und habe mir das Ding auch gekauft und bin heilfroh das ich endlich nicht mehr endloss lange meine Farben schütteln muss...! p.s. Hab Abo dagelassen ;)
Great video. I use mostly AP paints. Nice to see a ( smallish ?) Danish company competing with the big boys. You should contact Adam ( the yank who does their videos) . They say on their home page that they send paints and stuff to reviewers , so maybe a mega set is on the cards. Should be, you,re very fair and honest.
It might be that I've already heard from them! ;D It was courtesy of Adam that these paints arrived in the first place, so I wanted to make sure I got down to the good stuff as soon as possible.
I used to love AP's Strong Tone, but recently I had some really bad experiences with it being really glossy and leaving these awful dried air bubbles on the miniature. So I'm not really a fan of the new formula and went back to Agrax for the most part. Edit: to be fair I messaged their support, they sent me some free replacements, but only 2 of the bottles they sent me were up to the qualtiy I was used to. (I'm painting lots of 40k terrain at the moment so I need lots of wash)
I'm noticing a similar effect from the new pots I've got. Personally I like it working differently to Agrax, but it really did surprise me when I first loaded up my brush - not at all what I was expecting! I'd check out Luke's APS here on TH-cam if you're looking for big tubs of brown shade for terrain, visit some of his cunning tutorials. :D
@@TheArmyPainter Yes of course, I used your product (and other paints) for years without shaking. Very funny. I had a great time fixing those bubbles your product left. Basically getting called an idiot makes it even better.
The character is Ellen, known as "The Lady" from The Quick And The Dead, starring the hot and popular, at the time, Sharon Stone. It also features Gene Hackman and a baby-faced Leonardo Decaprio. But the best character is played by a young "scene-stealing" Russell Crowe as a reluctant gunslinging preacher, who's trying to put his past behind him. Now in no way is it an epic western tale by any means. But it is kinda cool in its own way, especially since they really weren't making western at the time.
And an interesting fact that they also just posted on Yahoo that according to her book, Sharon Stone says she paid Leonardo DiCaprio's 'The Quick and the Dead' salary because the studio didn't want to hire him, since he was a no-name at the time.
A very acceptable tabletop mini, as the colours are all pale my choice would have been a softer wash than strong tone though. Soft tone, I use strong tone for darker colors such as greys & dark browns. You can also combine the 2 if your careful rather than a single tone over the whole model. I then original colour drybrush & than lighter colour drybrush so very similar to you have done here.
In retrospect you're definitely right, and having played around with the range for a little while now I'd say I'd do it with Soft Tone if I were to paint her again. I haven't experimented much with mixing the washes, but I've really liked thinning out the shading effect with the Wash Medium, that's been super helpful!
I am seriously considering moving from citadel to AP. Nothing wrong with their paint but I'm really getting tired of the paints clogging and removing dried paint from the lids. I think their paints clog up because their pots just don't seal well. AP have a direct equivalent to citadel. I'll still keep shades. Price wise I think Citadel is way overpriced. Would appreciate you comments.
It's really much of a much, honestly - if you find the Army Painter stuff works for you, then for sure, making the switch is the better choice. I've found there's a handful of individual paints in each range that don't exist in the other, but for the price point, Army Painter is definitely a good choice.
I've had very little success with the AP spray (I got the Desert Yellow years ago) - whatever I do it always comes out too thick obscuring the details on the figure. Despite the cost I find it hard to beat the GW spray primers which seem to work like a charm every time. The bottled AP paints that I've tried are okay.
The Desert Yellow has proved pretty thick, and it's a recurring comment from others that have used it. I really like using it to fill in 3D prints on occasion! :D But taking it slow and doing a couple of light coats has made sure I don't lose detail on these smaller figures.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio It also seems to lack the texture I expect from primers - it seems very smooth once dry. I was impressed by the Vallejo spray primers.
I just got my first actual project to paint. Its a District9 Boardgame, 1/48 scale. I’ve normally been using acrylic paint for my smaller minis like 1/76-72. But I know I’m gonna need enamel paints or model color paints to paint up my minis for the game. What kind of paints do u recommend sand how should I get started?
You mentioned that the quickshade you used might have been reformulated. Could you elaborate on how it differs? I have a tin of each of the quickshades from years ago and I'm curious about this if I end up buying more.
In this case I'm using the acrylic wash from the pots rather than the tinned stuff. It feels a little gloopier than it used to, and runs similarly to how the dip from the tins does. It's quite neat both 'feeling' similar to one another.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio It's not that it's been reformulated, however we're constantly improving our paints, but our Quickshade Washes are an acrylic-based wash. Whereas the Original Quickshade Dip is a poly-varnish. Our Washes may appear "gloopier" due to the fact that we have one of, if not, the best wash medium available in the miniature painting industry! That, and compared to competitors washes, we pack in a lot more pigment. If you like a more controlled wash, you can always mix with our Quickshade Wash Mixing Medium...that stuff is magic.
Really enjoy the videos and my new hobby. Cheers! Loved the mini and wondered apart from our usual favourite power armour suppliers do you like any cool alternatives in particular? Fairly new so appreciate any pointers.
Alternatives to Space Marines or in general? There's a lot of great manufacturers out there, but I can name a few I really like off the top of my head. Bad Squiddo Games, any of the North Star lines (Artizan Designs, Crusader Miniatures, Copplestone Casting), Anvil Industries, Warlord Games... to name just a few! It really depends on what you're interested in, but there's roughly a squillion companies out there making miniatures and quite a few of them are really good. :D
Just pull the lids off the top! :D Let them sit for a little while, then with a bit of paper on your fingers you just twist the lids and pull firmly until they slide out of the bottle top. They'll pop straight back in, no problem.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio SMH. i was grabbing too far down thinking the entire threaded thing came off. grabbed the top and almost threw across room i yanekd too hard lol
I've heard the horror stories. ;D I wouldn't put a Citadel pot on one of these things, either. The design of the interior of their pots is generally pretty good, though - with an agitator ball and a bit of elbow grease there's plenty of space for the paint to rattle and roll, so I don't get the same issues as with the smaller bottles.
You can get much the same result with an agitator, I found. The reason why I figured the nail polish shaker was a worthwhile investment was that I had to shake 124 pots of paint and I don't think my arm's quite up to that... On top of that, it's actually been pretty useful with my Vallejo pots, too - I finally get Middlestone come out of the pot one single colour! 😂
I think the shaker is nice to have, but I've never used one. In order to prevent your paints from drying out in storage, on a shelf, or in transit, we top off each bottle with a little extra medium. This helps to make the bottle as air-tight as we can get it, while preserving those high-quality pigments. Gravity, with all acrylic paints it's not exclusive to ours, will eventually take it's course and since we use heavier pigments, they will eventually settle. Heavy pigments = solid coverage, necessitates appropriate mixing. Our Mixing Balls work like a dream. Alternatively, when you open a new bottle, give it a squeeze to remove that excess medium and shake away. Smooth, creamy paints await!
It mostly looks great but I really don't like the shade on the jacket, to much pooling for my liking but I think this can just be adapted depending how you use the wash. Btw, great to hear a fellow Aussie on TH-cam painting mini's I would have subscribed but it seems I have already subscribed some point previously, I probably also mentioned how great it is having a fellow Aussie on here, I don't recognise your voice though so perhaps you had a different setup in the previous videos I watched.
I've just been using a couple drops of water in my brush to thin them. If they're seeming very thin coming out of the pot, let them sit for a few minutes, then squeeze out whatever's sitting in the top of the bottle's neck; it's usually a few drops of medium that rises to the top. Give them another good shake and try again, should be good then!
One of the Army Painter guys has previously mentioned they add the extra medium so it effectively seals the air out and stabilises the paint much better while its in storage before it gets to you and recommends squirting out that top medium before shaking them to use. It is a bit of a pain though to have to do that with every bottle before using them.
Nice video as always but, for me personally, I think you could have a much nicer "plonk on the table" miniature if other washes were used instead of the AP Strong Tone :-)
In retrospect I think Soft Tone might have been a better choice! I'll be doing more where I get into individual areas in different washes, but for the first time out of the gate I wanted to stick to some of the suggestions in their leaflets and such and just stuck with Strong Tone. We'll see how others look in time!
I use the tinned dip on quite a few things. :) I think with a little tweaking I could get a better result than I did on this miniature with the washes, but if I were to pick one over the other I'd go with the Citadel Shades for more general purpose stuff.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio thanks, most videos showcasing army paints vids I've seen tend to skip this step, which gave me the impression that these army paints where magical paints with no need to think down!
It turns out I like them quite a bit! There's a bunch of really nice colours in the range that don't have an equivalent in Vallejo or Citadel's ranges, and in particular there's a lot of interesting 'highlight' colours that are near or off-white with slight tint to them which I am going to really enjoy. :D
I've been thinning it in the same way as I would Citadel or Vallejo. Just a touch of water in my brush, nothing special. There's a paint mixing medium which I'm going to experiment with as well, but for 'general purpose' it's all done with water.
I haven't thinned this shade at all. The washes from the smaller plastic pots are acrylic based so I could use a little water, but I was curious to see how they'd work at full blast, basically. I likewise don't thin my dip from the bigger tins, though my Dark Tone is getting a little thick - might be time for some white spirits!
You shouldn't need to mix any spirits into the can to begin with. It recommends only adding any if you're starting to notice it thickening over time - once you're halfway into the can or more, and even then only adding a tablespoon or so at a time. Spirits are best for cleaning your brushes if you apply it that way rather than dipping, but use old brushes since it'll quickly ruin most of them!
I got the mega set about a year ago. Very disappointed with the paint and the supplied brush came frayed and worthless. The paints were way too thick and creamy. It was like using Apple Barn acrylics. You shouldn't have to buy an agitator to use paints.
It's true that you shouldn't need a shaker to mix paints - it's a little in excess of the ordinary, after all - but I've had the exact same problems with Vallejo previously, too. An agitator's just good practice, and a few blips of steel aren't that pricey.
It's funny, but there's one or two of their paints I just can't get the results I want out of, but by comparison I've always really liked their brushes.
I love the army painter set. I bought the mega set, 50 colors for about $90 usd. I also found in addition to the agitator ball put a couple drops of flow aid in there really improved my paints.
Thanks for this suggestion. I am about to go through adding agitators to the same set. I'll be following your advice with the flow aid. I've been using several of the paints already and some, even after vigorous shaking sessions, are still rather paste-like. :)
What agitator balls do you use? I am fearful because some reviews of the army painter brands claim they rust.
Thanks.
I bought some hematite beads locally. Just make sure they are real solid hematite. Not compressed hematite. Compressed ones wont rust but can fall apart over time I hear.
@@jl4e23 the army painter brand agitators don't rust.
You can leave them in salt water for ages and they still won't rust.
Great to see someone noticing the army painter range, I bought the zombiecide sets a few years ago and as nice as the citadel paints are I actually prefer and buy army painter stuff for the majority of my paints and washes, very cool to see a hobbyist use the same stuff as I usually use
The Zombicide set seems to have a nice collection of colors in it. I have an Army Painter Super Hobby Set and am consider rounding it out with a Zombicide set.
This was probably one of your funnest vidoes. Always love more content from you, my dude. :)
And congrats on 20k subscribers! :D
I use Army Painter paints, with a few Vallejo. They are amazing paints! Welcome to the Army Painter club. :D
It took me a while, but I'm pretty happy to be here! ;D
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I often recommend Army Painter paints. Good bottles, good price, and good pigment and viscosity. Plus their color match system is brilliant.
I have the Mega set and use it daily. You are correct, agitators are a must!! Otherwise medium comes to the top and paints are way too thin. I do love the range of colors!
The paints look great! Army painter has a neat little pamphlet that is with their displays in my area and it is free.... has a lot of nice tips and tricks too...
Love the Army painter range, for me 2nd only to Vallejo.
I LOVE their Dragon Red for Blood Angels. Also a word on fixings going too heavy on the spray primer, a dunk in Cutex Ultra powerful from Amazon for like 5ish seconds takes the stuff right off just gotta be careful not to leave it in too long or the plastic will start dissolving (obviously). Also Army Painter's customer service is fast and really top notch.
Im currently looking for a good way to strip some old models of their paint. Would you recommend using Cutex Ultra for that as well?
@@janbiela8596 the cutex is a "brute force" method of stripping that I go to when i want to do it fast or the more gentle method just isn't working. The more gentle method is to soak in simple green, windex, or denatured alcohol for 8 hours, a day, a week (haven't had issues with them reacting to the plastic) then use an old toothbrush to clear the paint away. I've also heard good things about soda blasting but never tried it myself.
I found those nail varnish bottle shakers a month ago (before I found this video) and they're great. And I'm awaiting an order for Army Painter agitator balls to arrive! Good to know I'm on the right track in my return to the hobby ☺
Thanks for this! I'm getting back into painting after a 2 decade hiatus, and opted for Army Painter kit. I think the whisper quiet shaker is what I need to deal with my only criticism of their paints :) I was afraid to try the drown-in-wash step of their method, but it looks like with a bit of touching up it gives a great final piece. Will have to take the plunge and try it.
The agitators in the pots have made a big difference across all the ranges I use - it's kinda surprising I hadn't thought of the shaker earlier! Army Painter also offer two clear mediums, one for paint and one for their washes, so you could soften the shading effect and probably get a much smoother finish before highlighting and tidying up. Something to try next time!
The method is the dip varnish though not the dropper bottle tones. The dip does a much better job but has a 24 hr drying time.
Congratulations on reaching 20K subscribers!
Oh geez! So I did! 😮 I gotta think of something to mark that one, now! Thanks bud!
After coming back to the hobby after a decade+ long break, I picked up AP paints just because it was all I could easily get a hold of around me. After some more experimenting with the modern Citadel, I actually found I prefer the AP just because it's closer to the old hex-pot Citadel than the modern lines of base and layers. That's not a knock on Citadel modern at all, just that it behaves different than I like for my style of painting whereas the AP paints are perfect for me.
It feels that way with a lot of the pots I've opened so far. Ultramarine Blue in particular feels pretty familiar. ;D
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I also realized that the old hex pots were *ahem* more than a decade...
The 90s are always 10 years ago right? Right?
I have the Army Painter sprays and I have used them on my armor models and they do cover quite well. I like the Desert Yellow and Uniform Grey. I have not used the bottle versions but I think I will try a couple of them myself. I appreciate the review and I am looking forward to you reviewing their other products as well. Thanks for sharing this neat tutorial as it was very helpful.
If it helps, I've really been enjoying the wash medium they've got. They do a paint mixing medium and a wash one as well, which has a strange, slightly cloudy consistency when mixed with other stuff, but it dries really smoothly. It's been a great thinner for the Strong Tone and I'm going to give it a shot with some paint mixed in and see if I can't make my own coloured shades with it. Really digging these new paints in the toolbox!
Stainless steel nuts are good agitators as balls can sometimes act as stoppers in the neck of the bottle and stop paint flow and the holes in the nuts & shape prevents this. Cheap too.
I love the army painter products especially the inks; those are the best in the market!
It's a pretty convincing video to at least look at AP colours the next time I'm out shopping! The coverage looks so good, and if it's that consistent, I can think of a bunch of colours I'd much rather get from Army Painter. I'm a little disappointed on the pooling present from the Quickshade, but that might just be my preference for Agrax Earthshade showing.
The pooling might be mitigated from thinning with a little water or some of their own wash medium; putting it on as thick as I did might be more my problem than the wash itself! I might also have been better off using the Soft Tone rather than Strong Tone, but this is all part of messing around and learning with them.
That Tanned Flesh went on unbelievably smoothly, though - might end up replacing Bugman's Glow as my go-to for basing skin tones like this!
I found the AP washes are a.) really potent and b.) need to be used with a light hand. The first couple times I used them I slapped it on like old GW washes and got similar results. After tweaking my methods by thinning and/or being more selective of where I deposited washes and/or wicking away pooling, I no longer have problems.
They do behave differently than GW washes. Those go on a lot "faster" because they pool much less. I mostly use the AP ones because I prefer more potent colors I can manipulate more, but to each their own. :)
Oh thank God I was worried that it was going to be another Space Marine power armor vid! 😉
...don't make me paint an Ultramarine in Army Painter blue. ;D
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Pls Paint one :D
It's even called Ultramarine Blue. Do ittttttt
Thanks! I enjoyed the longer format
You hit your head? Jeez, hope you're okay and you're feeling better now. Take care of yourself, man!
Thanks! This helps a lot when window shopping for paints. I have been thinking of grabbing some Army Painter Paints because they just have a better range of colours than Citadel does, as well as a better price point here in the US.
That's ultimately part of what informed the decision to go ahead with these videos. Army Painter's roughly half the price here compared to Citadel, too. Are they half the quality? Certainly not. They've also got a bunch of colours that slot neatly in gaps in other ranges, too - their bruised reds and purples are fantastic.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Definitely looking forward to the rest of this series.
Plus you ger more at the cheaper price. 6ml worth iirc
I would love to see your methods for some more weird and wacky fantasy models! Stuff like goblins, kobolds, spiders, ents, etc etc!
I've got some replacement parts coming for a resin 3D printer so I can start doing more of that. Rangers of the Shadow Deep has everybody asking about evil critters and the like, so I figure I might swerve in that direction a bit. ;D
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio That would be fantastic
Quickshade Mixing Medium is some of the best stuff ever for using overall washes.
I always like to try new products; It's easy to get stuck in patterns, especially with the price of some of these things but it's universally worth it. ~ In the long run, it can turn out to be more economical too.
Good stuff. I am a fan of GW& Vallejo, but these seem to be a good product also. I DO like the dropper style bottles. Thanks for an honest & detailed review. Always like your posts/ trust your views& opinions. Thanks
They've been a real surprise! There's a couple that are still slightly thin, but they're the lighter colours you'd usually expect not to cover perfectly anyhow. I'm going to have some fun playing with the rest of the range - the reds and purples Army Painter do are really nice!
While I mostly stick with Vallejo, I've used the quick shades and some of their paints, they work great, their brushes are very good too..
I've actually been really surprised by the brushes. I wasn't expecting them to be as good as they have been! In particular I really like the wedge tip on their drybrushes, that's a neat touch.
Awesome video! Loved it actually- you had me at 'Whisper quiet!!' Lol
Hope your noggin is doing alright, mate! Honestly didn't even notice any ums or ehs.
Much better now, thanks. :D Now I have to go back to patiently explaining myself rather than claiming 'ah no my head's broken!'
I have the mega set and really like it. I don’t understand the hate they get in certain Facebook groups.
Just bought it. Happy with it. What is the hate all about?
It's a status thing really. We make really solid paints at insanely good prices, and we've developed a system to make painting easier for new or less skilled painters. So maybe it's an elitist mentality, but we're proud of our products and proud to support not only painters, but gaming! We're gamers first and foremost, total nerds, so we make paint for gamers and we don't believe in #paintshaming.
Dank deinem Video kann ich mir in Zukunft viele Schmerzen in den Ellebogengelenken ersparen ;))))
denn durch dein Video bin ich erst auf die Idee gekommen und habe mir das Ding auch gekauft und bin heilfroh das ich endlich nicht mehr endloss lange meine Farben schütteln muss...!
p.s. Hab Abo dagelassen ;)
Great video. I use mostly AP paints. Nice to see a ( smallish ?) Danish company competing with the big boys. You should contact Adam ( the yank who does their videos) . They say on their home page that they send paints and stuff to reviewers , so maybe a mega set is on the cards. Should be, you,re very fair and honest.
My ears...are burning.... (Adam)
It might be that I've already heard from them! ;D It was courtesy of Adam that these paints arrived in the first place, so I wanted to make sure I got down to the good stuff as soon as possible.
I used to love AP's Strong Tone, but recently I had some really bad experiences with it being really glossy and leaving these awful dried air bubbles on the miniature. So I'm not really a fan of the new formula and went back to Agrax for the most part.
Edit: to be fair I messaged their support, they sent me some free replacements, but only 2 of the bottles they sent me were up to the qualtiy I was used to. (I'm painting lots of 40k terrain at the moment so I need lots of wash)
I'm noticing a similar effect from the new pots I've got. Personally I like it working differently to Agrax, but it really did surprise me when I first loaded up my brush - not at all what I was expecting! I'd check out Luke's APS here on TH-cam if you're looking for big tubs of brown shade for terrain, visit some of his cunning tutorials. :D
Washes need shaking too ;)
@@TheArmyPainter Yes of course, I used your product (and other paints) for years without shaking. Very funny.
I had a great time fixing those bubbles your product left. Basically getting called an idiot makes it even better.
@@HerrMarajin You're not an idiot, by any stretch of the imagination. Just a friendly reminder to shake those paints...AND washes. :)
Very cool... I've been eyeing Army Painter.... looks great
The character is Ellen, known as "The Lady" from The Quick And The Dead, starring the hot and popular, at the time, Sharon Stone. It also features Gene Hackman and a baby-faced Leonardo Decaprio. But the best character is played by a young "scene-stealing" Russell Crowe as a reluctant gunslinging preacher, who's trying to put his past behind him. Now in no way is it an epic western tale by any means. But it is kinda cool in its own way, especially since they really weren't making western at the time.
Oh yeah! They also included a young Gary Sinise (Forest Gump fame) in flashbacks as Ellen's father.
And an interesting fact that they also just posted on Yahoo that according to her book, Sharon Stone says she paid Leonardo DiCaprio's 'The Quick and the Dead' salary because the studio didn't want to hire him, since he was a no-name at the time.
They look pretty good and i have three of their brushes, but the paints came along a little too late as i'd switched from Citadel to Vallejo.
A very acceptable tabletop mini, as the colours are all pale my choice would have been a softer wash than strong tone though. Soft tone, I use strong tone for darker colors such as greys & dark browns. You can also combine the 2 if your careful rather than a single tone over the whole model. I then original colour drybrush & than lighter colour drybrush so very similar to you have done here.
In retrospect you're definitely right, and having played around with the range for a little while now I'd say I'd do it with Soft Tone if I were to paint her again. I haven't experimented much with mixing the washes, but I've really liked thinning out the shading effect with the Wash Medium, that's been super helpful!
I love your videos! You have a great style
I love army painter great video love the figure as well
It must be nice to be so talented. Nice mini.
Very nicely explained. Thank you
I am seriously considering moving from citadel to AP. Nothing wrong with their paint but I'm really getting tired of the paints clogging and removing dried paint from the lids. I think their paints clog up because their pots just don't seal well. AP have a direct equivalent to citadel. I'll still keep shades. Price wise I think Citadel is way overpriced. Would appreciate you comments.
It's really much of a much, honestly - if you find the Army Painter stuff works for you, then for sure, making the switch is the better choice. I've found there's a handful of individual paints in each range that don't exist in the other, but for the price point, Army Painter is definitely a good choice.
-"How is it?"
-"Actually, this is Whoo"
I would use their mixing medium with the wash.
I've had very little success with the AP spray (I got the Desert Yellow years ago) - whatever I do it always comes out too thick obscuring the details on the figure. Despite the cost I find it hard to beat the GW spray primers which seem to work like a charm every time. The bottled AP paints that I've tried are okay.
The Desert Yellow has proved pretty thick, and it's a recurring comment from others that have used it. I really like using it to fill in 3D prints on occasion! :D But taking it slow and doing a couple of light coats has made sure I don't lose detail on these smaller figures.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio It also seems to lack the texture I expect from primers - it seems very smooth once dry. I was impressed by the Vallejo spray primers.
Also, putting them in a bath of fairly warm water before spraying helps the paint consistency.
I just got my first actual project to paint. Its a District9 Boardgame, 1/48 scale. I’ve normally been using acrylic paint for my smaller minis like 1/76-72. But I know I’m gonna need enamel paints or model color paints to paint up my minis for the game.
What kind of paints do u recommend sand how should I get started?
You mentioned that the quickshade you used might have been reformulated. Could you elaborate on how it differs? I have a tin of each of the quickshades from years ago and I'm curious about this if I end up buying more.
In this case I'm using the acrylic wash from the pots rather than the tinned stuff. It feels a little gloopier than it used to, and runs similarly to how the dip from the tins does. It's quite neat both 'feeling' similar to one another.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio It's not that it's been reformulated, however we're constantly improving our paints, but our Quickshade Washes are an acrylic-based wash. Whereas the Original Quickshade Dip is a poly-varnish. Our Washes may appear "gloopier" due to the fact that we have one of, if not, the best wash medium available in the miniature painting industry! That, and compared to competitors washes, we pack in a lot more pigment. If you like a more controlled wash, you can always mix with our Quickshade Wash Mixing Medium...that stuff is magic.
i like the vid, whats that rotating thing you used in the intro?
Haven't watched video yet, but as a AP user a good agitator and something to shake them (I use a jigsaw tool) works wonders for AP paints
Do you thin them? I've only used their primer sprays.
@@Drewscipher Yeap, always thin them roughly 1 to 1, there metallics are great too, nearly always just 1 coat
Really enjoy the videos and my new hobby. Cheers! Loved the mini and wondered apart from our usual favourite power armour suppliers do you like any cool alternatives in particular? Fairly new so appreciate any pointers.
Alternatives to Space Marines or in general? There's a lot of great manufacturers out there, but I can name a few I really like off the top of my head. Bad Squiddo Games, any of the North Star lines (Artizan Designs, Crusader Miniatures, Copplestone Casting), Anvil Industries, Warlord Games... to name just a few! It really depends on what you're interested in, but there's roughly a squillion companies out there making miniatures and quite a few of them are really good. :D
I like Army Painter, I prefer War Colours, but Army Painter is fun.
How did you get agitators in their bottles? I went to do that and my bottles don’t seem to open anywhere to put them in?
Just pull the lids off the top! :D Let them sit for a little while, then with a bit of paper on your fingers you just twist the lids and pull firmly until they slide out of the bottle top. They'll pop straight back in, no problem.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio SMH. i was grabbing too far down thinking the entire threaded thing came off. grabbed the top and almost threw across room i yanekd too hard lol
Wow looks awesome!!! Btw you sound like roger Moore. Say...Bond, James Bond. Lol great work.
...a nail polish shaker? Better hope your cap is secure. I wouldn't want to use that on my Citadel paint (because they don't close quite right!).
I've heard the horror stories. ;D I wouldn't put a Citadel pot on one of these things, either. The design of the interior of their pots is generally pretty good, though - with an agitator ball and a bit of elbow grease there's plenty of space for the paint to rattle and roll, so I don't get the same issues as with the smaller bottles.
I find it odd to buy a nail polish shaker because otherwise, you cannot really mix the AP paints properly.
You can get much the same result with an agitator, I found. The reason why I figured the nail polish shaker was a worthwhile investment was that I had to shake 124 pots of paint and I don't think my arm's quite up to that... On top of that, it's actually been pretty useful with my Vallejo pots, too - I finally get Middlestone come out of the pot one single colour! 😂
I think the shaker is nice to have, but I've never used one. In order to prevent your paints from drying out in storage, on a shelf, or in transit, we top off each bottle with a little extra medium. This helps to make the bottle as air-tight as we can get it, while preserving those high-quality pigments. Gravity, with all acrylic paints it's not exclusive to ours, will eventually take it's course and since we use heavier pigments, they will eventually settle. Heavy pigments = solid coverage, necessitates appropriate mixing. Our Mixing Balls work like a dream. Alternatively, when you open a new bottle, give it a squeeze to remove that excess medium and shake away. Smooth, creamy paints await!
It mostly looks great but I really don't like the shade on the jacket, to much pooling for my liking but I think this can just be adapted depending how you use the wash. Btw, great to hear a fellow Aussie on TH-cam painting mini's I would have subscribed but it seems I have already subscribed some point previously, I probably also mentioned how great it is having a fellow Aussie on here, I don't recognise your voice though so perhaps you had a different setup in the previous videos I watched.
I use their inks rather than the dip and they're great.
I do rather like the coloured inks as well, but most of my stuff works fairly well with a single shade - the dip does the job pretty well. :D
Do you thin the AP paints with water? They seems very diluted to me
I've just been using a couple drops of water in my brush to thin them. If they're seeming very thin coming out of the pot, let them sit for a few minutes, then squeeze out whatever's sitting in the top of the bottle's neck; it's usually a few drops of medium that rises to the top. Give them another good shake and try again, should be good then!
One of the Army Painter guys has previously mentioned they add the extra medium so it effectively seals the air out and stabilises the paint much better while its in storage before it gets to you and recommends squirting out that top medium before shaking them to use. It is a bit of a pain though to have to do that with every bottle before using them.
Can you please do a 15 minute ork boy?
I'll get there eventually!
Are you going straight from the pot to the model, or are you thinning the paint?
Thinning them with just a little water, same as usual.
I thought so, just wanted to make sure. Thank you.
I had honestly forgotten to mention it, which is not a great sign! ;D
Nice video as always but, for me personally, I think you could have a much nicer "plonk on the table" miniature if other washes were used instead of the AP Strong Tone :-)
In retrospect I think Soft Tone might have been a better choice! I'll be doing more where I get into individual areas in different washes, but for the first time out of the gate I wanted to stick to some of the suggestions in their leaflets and such and just stuck with Strong Tone. We'll see how others look in time!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Ya - the Strong Tone in practice is meant for darker colours. The Soft Tone is for lighter - like this model.
Better to dip than wash. Another painter compared AP wash v GW wash v AP dip and preferred the dip.
I use the tinned dip on quite a few things. :) I think with a little tweaking I could get a better result than I did on this miniature with the washes, but if I were to pick one over the other I'd go with the Citadel Shades for more general purpose stuff.
I have the exact same paint mixer. They work well but the included power supplies are junk. Luckily they take batteries!
I'm hoping mine holds out for a little while yet. I've been buzzing my Vallejo collection as well!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Yeah, I couldn't find any quality option so I bought one of those too and an adaptor socket as the plug wasn't Australian :(
Nice!
Could you or someone tell me where could i get that rotary thingy at the beginning of the video?
Just look for 'solar display stand.' They're available in a ton of places online, and they're pretty cheap!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio thank you so much ;)
❤️❤️❤️ from a new sub!
What miniature handle do you use?
This is one of the Redgrass Games handles. The bit at the top turning is super useful, I find.
Where can I get this miniature model?
what rotating painting grip is that? thx
Do you need to thin the paint?
A little water or medium will definitely help, same as any acrylic paint.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio thanks, most videos showcasing army paints vids I've seen tend to skip this step, which gave me the impression that these army paints where magical paints with no need to think down!
I may have missed you mention it in the video but what is that miniature and which range is it from? Thanks.
Eliza Stone, from Artizan Designs. Cracking miniature!
www.artizandesigns.com/prod.php?prod=1254
Good review of the paints,I gather you are impressed with them then?
It turns out I like them quite a bit! There's a bunch of really nice colours in the range that don't have an equivalent in Vallejo or Citadel's ranges, and in particular there's a lot of interesting 'highlight' colours that are near or off-white with slight tint to them which I am going to really enjoy. :D
Neat!
you r refreshing using less than 10 color paints so many demos list 30 or more bottles
How did you find thinnng the paint?
I've been thinning it in the same way as I would Citadel or Vallejo. Just a touch of water in my brush, nothing special. There's a paint mixing medium which I'm going to experiment with as well, but for 'general purpose' it's all done with water.
:O Where is that miniature from?
Seriously now we need a machine to agitate paint bottle ? But nice video
What is your ratio between quickshade and solvent?
I haven't thinned this shade at all. The washes from the smaller plastic pots are acrylic based so I could use a little water, but I was curious to see how they'd work at full blast, basically. I likewise don't thin my dip from the bigger tins, though my Dark Tone is getting a little thick - might be time for some white spirits!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio oh ok i see. I have a can of quickshade and some mineral spirits. I was wondering how i should i combine the two.
You shouldn't need to mix any spirits into the can to begin with. It recommends only adding any if you're starting to notice it thickening over time - once you're halfway into the can or more, and even then only adding a tablespoon or so at a time. Spirits are best for cleaning your brushes if you apply it that way rather than dipping, but use old brushes since it'll quickly ruin most of them!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio oh ok thanks. I have noticed it's thicker than usual so I'll just add some spirits then.
I got the mega set about a year ago. Very disappointed with the paint and the supplied brush came frayed and worthless.
The paints were way too thick and creamy. It was like using Apple Barn acrylics. You shouldn't have to buy an agitator to use paints.
Yeah and that's the main problem lies: why pay extra to buy ball bearings and a paint shake? When you can just buy paints that dont have this problem
It's true that you shouldn't need a shaker to mix paints - it's a little in excess of the ordinary, after all - but I've had the exact same problems with Vallejo previously, too. An agitator's just good practice, and a few blips of steel aren't that pricey.
I really dislike AP paints, just couldn't get along with them at all.
What aspect didn't you like? Always good to know the actual criticism so as to know your not just some marketing turd from a rival company.
Love their paint. Their brushes suck.
It's funny, but there's one or two of their paints I just can't get the results I want out of, but by comparison I've always really liked their brushes.