Wow, these details in 4K are incredible! Outstanding to see this gigantic mahogany log transformed into high-quality timber with such skill. Awesome craftsmanship!
I don't know what it is, but I think I could sit and watch these type of videos for hours, and still get enjoyment out of them, thank you for sharing your expertise.
I believe this is the first Red Green video I've ever seen without him using Duct Tape. LOL Nice video. Something like this would've been mighty handy to someone like me 50 years ago. I learned it on a tractor driven buzz saw back in the 70s. Same concept, only shifted 90 degrees. Most people don't even think about the direction of the grain when buying boards. They just buy them and trust that they work as intended. Most don't even know what a Pith is without Googling it. Let alone knowing why it isn't wise to use it in certain applications. But for those who DO want to know about Quarter Sawing, this video is a great place to start. It gives the basics with a drawn out diagram of what each board will look like as it gets cut. Each log is different. Some have a straight Pith and others meander. You never really know until you cut into it. As for the purpose, Quarter Sawn wood is structurally stronger due to the direction of the grain in reference to the width/length of the board. It will withstand the elements better, too. It's a Quality thing that good Woodworkers pay attention to. Depending on its purpose, of course.
Remarkable! This video taught me so much about sawmilling. The way you handle those massive logs is impressive. The footage is crystal clear. I'm eagerly anticipating more content from you. Keep up the exceptional work!
Thanks for the comment. As long as you stop to think about what you're trying to do, you can generally figure out the easiest & safest way to get 'er done. I am still making videos for Norwood & enjoy every bit of it!
What a pleasure it was to see a log sawn the right way ! Most people take the easy way and just cut through and through, that is why most of the timer we buy is twisted like a propeller! Many thanks for posting this.
Wow, thanks, Pete-- what an honor to hear from you! I just watched your BBC video from 2015, and your recent Ukulele CWD. Good to see that you are still building & playing. If I ever travel again to Great Britain (or if you visit the U.S.), I hope we can meet in person. I just put together a Stewart McDonald uke kit with my grandson, which he is learning to play, and got a second kit that I'm using as a pattern to build one for myself out of wood off the sawmill (probably walnut with a quarter-sawn sassafras soundboard for the first one). Gotta start somewhere!
Thanks for watching and for leaving the comment. There are other ways to quarter saw lumber, but this is the easiest & most efficient for this type of sawmill.
Quartersawn wood is less likely to cup and shrinks less with changes in humidity, so I can see why this is important to you. Keep in mind that woodworkers will pay a premium for salvaged quartersawn pine flooring!
Thnx for a simple well explained logical method. I love you wasted hardly anything and im sure most of us would gladly have the fire wood to make something from.
The problem is that the wood that comes off the edges is not stable and tends to warp and bow as it dries. Still, it would be good for small projects, such as pen blanks. Not wasting wood is one of the things I love about running a band saw. On a typical log, I get an extra board or two because the thin kerf wastes about half as much wood as a circle or chain saw mill.
So good Dave. Your explanation followed a very logical sequence. Probably the best explanation and demonstration I've seen on the subject. You are truly a subject matter expert.
Hi, Howard, good to hear from you. Any expertise comes from making a bunch of mistakes, and I'm still amazed at how many ways there are to mess up a cut! Stay well, and keep making sawdust!
@@daveboyt6810 Well put Dave. Very well put! PS - I just posted a public thanks for your support and all the learning you've provided me with along the way - in the most recent video on my channel. Least I could do out of appreciation . . . th-cam.com/video/0bErCbRCXx4/w-d-xo.html
most descriptions of quarter sawn are confusing. The way I put it it's the same as plain/plane cutting ( a little pun there) except you're ripping the board in half so there is only one side of the center. In essence all you are getting is parts that do not go beyond the center of log. I'm a mason and this is what I came up .
Terrific demonstration of quarter sawn. My father was a wood shop teacher for nearly forty years and always admired the quarter sawn lumber. Said it is more stable then the other cuts. I personally like those flecks that show.
maximum yield of high-value lumber zero waste of useable lumber and he references scrap for firewood very conscientious and smart sawyer very well done sir
Quarter and riff saw is the only way to go. I see now it's a lot more work, but as a woodworker for 35 years it's pretty much the only type of wood I use. Glad to see you take the time and do it right.
I agree that it has a lot of advantages. Even wood like walnut that doesn't have a ray structure that stands out is beautiful when quartersawn. I cut wood they way the customer wants, but definitely recommend quartersawn.
Let me know how it works out! I started out with a small sawmill about like yours, but pretty soon, I needed a bigger mill to handle bigger logs. Even with the HD36, I mill logs that push the limits, but with a little determination, there's always a way. I enjoyed you channel, by the way, looking forward to watching more of your videos as time permits.
Thanks for checking us out, Dave! I'm really looking forward to trying out quarter-sawing. That's the fate of the next 20 inch log I get on the mill. Your sawmill is impressive and I envy some of your nice features, like the locks. I'm sure we'll go bigger and better one day. I got the sawdust in the veins now too!
i would like to thank you for the information you gave me. You are an insperation to me as a teacher. Your descriptions were accurate and informative. Thank you for your time and for helping the next generation understand things that they may have otherwise missed.
I am thexnewest of Sawyers and have seen several attempts to explain quarrersawing. Dave has done the best most thorough explanation of any. The little add ins based on his experience are so valuable. Thanks for this presentation, I am subscribed snd ready for the next lesson.
Hey Dave ,this is Dave. Great video. Im looking for that big walnut still. Thanks for coming out to mill the cedar and letting me and Jake work with you,it was a pleasure.
I really appreciate your knowledge and the quality of video you made here for us. And I hope this doesn't offend you, because I think it's a compliment, but you're a dead ringer for Mr. Red Green!
Uh, thanks... I guess... I do buy duct tape by the case, but don't much care whether women find me handy or handsome, as long as they find me! I come by my Red Green ingenuity from my Dad. Growing up in the late '50s, we had two washing machines-- one would only agitate, and the other would only spin. We also had two televisions, one with picture, the other with sound.
Thanks! I enjoyed your video on the Old Chillicothe Village. Maybe in a couple hundred years someone will dredge up this video as an example of the primitive conditions in Missouri in the early 21st century.
re: the modified cutting pattern around the 11 min mark: What I've done with my Norwood is to set the cut 5/4 off the bunks (or whatever thickness desired) and cut the board off the bottom. That way, I don't have to 1) mess with constantly try to level the small log and 2) adjust the cutting height. Thanks for the vid. Please keep it up.
Tom Novak approx 7:30 mark: Can also do each of the top/bottom pieces individually so the wider piece doesn't have as much waste. I use a scrap when securing it so I don't scar the face of the wood.
+Dave Boyt may be the machinist in me, but the more stable the workpiece is, the better the end product will be. Guess I'm not much of a poker player. lol. But you're probably right.
I 𝗿𝗲𝗮𝗹𝗹𝘆 enjoyed this video. Got some good 𝙢𝙖𝙣𝙡𝙮 education, plus enjoyed seeing the use of a great tool in the portable sawmill. Been learning about Gerstner tool chests, which are made with quartersawn, and in researching the word wound up actually learning something worthwhile. Thanks very much.
Thank you for presenting this video. I needed some quarter sawn oak for a steam bending project. I took several logs to a local Amish sawyer two days ago. A couple were white oak and the rest black walnut. We used your process to quarter saw one of the oak logs, 3 different ways, just as you did in this video. And it worked out very well. Now I think we know what we are doing! I had taken 4 red oak logs to the same guy 2 months ago and I had asked him to quarter saw them, but he had misunderstood me (or I just communicated badly). Anyway, that didn't work out very well. So this time, I made a single page collage of pictures of you doing the various steps and it worked out very well. Thanks again, Pete Stanaitis ----------------------
Great video. It's a real pleasure watching some one who knows their business and is good at it taking care to do a job the right way. Well done and thanks for posting.
Great presentation...love the markings on the wood to indicate your plan, and you explained everything so clearly. It was an informative and RELAXING watch. Thank you! :)
I love the look of quarterd sawn white oak. I have a dining room table made of it with an OCS Boston stain and love it. I am thinking of getting a kitchen island top in quarter sawn oak now. I will probably have an Amish furniture company make it for me. Thanks for helping to make this beautiful wood available to us consumers.
One of my greatest pleasures is seeing how woodworkers use the wood that comes off my mill. I'm pleased to be a link between the log and the end product.
Thanks. Yes, I'm fortunate to be able to do this. It is actually easier and more affordable than most people think, and I meet some amazing people along the way.
Nice explanation , I really like your bucket over the sawdust chute. That will keep it off of the ground and clean in case you want to repurpose it and less cleanup too.
Congratulations on the mill... you'll love making sawdust. Quartersawn maple is pretty, but doesn't have the ray flecks like oak or sycamore. Which mill are you using?
@@daveboyt6810 I am neither presently. We live on 6.5 acres of woods mostly oak, hickory, walnut, and maple. I want to get into woodworking as I have lots of material. Thanks for sharing.
@Bert Clayton as a former teacher I really like your perspective. Very insightful and sometimes it is not the subject but the way in which it is shared, discussed, and interpreted. That makes all of the difference! Thanks for sharing.
This a really nice outfit, has plenty of power. You do nice work and don't have much waste at all, enjoyed your video and learned a few things as well. Thank You..
You're right on all counts. I've pushed that mill to the max and it always comes through! Never yet had a log that I couldn't mill, even if I have to quarter it with a chain saw first.
At 10:15 mark, why not lay it flat on log bed and make cut to get a board off the bottom of the cant? That way it will be perfectly level. The saw can cut under that thick of wood it appears.
Thanks for the comment. You are right. A lot of people do it that way, and I could have shown doing it both ways. The reason I prefer to cut off the top is that it lets me see what the grain on the next piece will be. Sometimes it is better to make a couple of cuts from the same side.
Sir, you presented yourself very well. Your explanation of how to quarter saw and get the most useable product from a large log was interesting and informative. Thanks and keep that saw blade sharp. **** 1/2
Thanks for the kind words. Quartersawing that log isn't that complicated, but it does help to have a plan. A lot like playing Tetris, only in reverse (taking the log apart instead of putting it together.
Norwood Portable Sawmills Yes I really did! There are not a lot of Mills around today That even know how to cut and get those Beautiful Quarter Sawn Planks. Or Maybe they just want to get the most Planks they can and forget about Quarter Sawn. Thanks again!
That's what I love about the Norwood mill. It has the versatility and flexibility to do this kind of cutting. There are more of these mills out there than you might think!
On the last wedge instead of trying to get it leveled up, just put the cut side on the deck and make a bottom cut, then flip it 90 degrees to the other cut side and make a bottom cut. Do this flipping back and forth with bottom cuts until you are down to the "firewood" wedge.
Nice video. I was wondering, with the quarter sawing at the end of the video, would it have been easier to have the log flat on the bed and cut the boards from the bottom of the log, that way having the log weight to your advantage and not having to worry about the levelling issues every cut while just needing to flip flop the log as required.
Good observation. You're right, and a lot of sawyers do just that for that reason. A lot of mills have limits on how thick that last piece can be cut, and cutting from the top lets me cut any thickness I want, plus I don't have to move the wood if I want to take a second cut.
Thank you for the fantastic demonstration and my increase in knowledge i don’t use oak as I’m a guitar builder but quarter-sawn lumber in my craft is essential
Good to hear from you, Brad. I'm an amateur luthier, myself (mostly dulcimers), and set aside the best cherry and walnut for bodies, and use quartersawn sycamore and sassafras for soundboards. I have a beautiful quartersawn spruce wing spar from a 1940s Aeronca Champ set aside for soundboard material. Antique aircraft restorers typically replace the wing spars, and I'm always looking for more!
Dave Boyt Nice to to hear from a fellow builder. I have built 3 dulcimers but mostly guitars and ukes, getting some walnut out of Buffalo from a tree cut about 20 years ago should be great stay safe
@@bradhibbitts8188 I just finished my first uke, from a Stewart McDonald kit, which I'll use as a pattern for my next one. I wrote an article about building dulcimers for Woodcraft magazine, and they made this video of the process: th-cam.com/video/tWP2FHBCOTg/w-d-xo.html Let me know if you want to try some sycamore or sassafras soundboards. You can contact me a dboyt.42@gmail.com
Thanks for sharing your skills and experience, I really enjoy your video. I love to work with woods. With that skills and fine machene you got, I'll be so happy. Take it easy.
Lots of woodworkers are using bandsaw mills because that's the only way they can get exactly the right lumber for their projects. Next best thing is to have the wood custom cut by a sawyer who can custom cut for you.
Not being a smart Alec but have wondered watching several of these mills run why guys don’t use a jib pole with an electric hoist to help move a lot of the heavier materials. Seems like it might help protect backs and toes.
Not a bad idea. When you look at sawmills, you'll see about every possible way of doing things. A lot of the mills (including Norwood) have options for hydraulic lifts and turners that are even better.
I worked in a veneer mill operating a veneer slicer and a dry kiln where I operated a double edge trim saw and a chop saw but I knew nothing about cutting lumber until just now.
The red bucket is my solution to sawdust. I cut a piece of a tire to deflect the sawdust down. Usually, I let it go on the ground, but I can catch it in a bucket when I'm milling in someone's yard or want to use the sawdust for compost. As for lubricant, I've heard a lot both ways, but generally don't use it, since freshly cut logs are roughly half water by weight. I do use it with a little Pine-Sol when sap build-up on the blade is a problem as it often is in the spring.
Wow! What an interestingly great video! Thanks for the explanation of quarter-sawn, etc. I juts wonder how you deal with the weight of the log behind the cut and why it doesn't jam-up the saw. I didn't see any wedges in the video and wonder if you insert spacers, etc. Anyway, thanks for a great video.
The blade is narrow and think-kerf. The portion of the log not yet cut (in front of the blade) holds the cut open in advance of the blade. Norwood sawmills have been in production for nearly 30 years; this technology has many years of success in the field.
Thanks for the comment. The set in the teeth of the blade makes the kerf about 1mm wider than the thickness of the blade itself, which lets the blade slide through without need for wedges. Total kerf of the cut is about 3.2 mm.
Hello. Nice information. I was wondering would it not be easier to flip the log and cut a inch off the bottom of the log and that way you won't have to keep putting ur level on it. Just use the bottom bunk. Thanks
Thanks for the comment. You're right, a lot of sawyers cut off the bottom, and it works just as well. I just got started off the top and kept on going that way.
Thanks for that. Wish there was one of those in my area. I loved your voice. Reminds me of the Older disney movie narrators I watched when I was younger.
+Old_Phart There are Norwoods in every corner of America. If you want to see one in action, just give us a shout at 1-800-567-0404 and we can find one very close to you. Thanks
I'm thinking about ways to make it easier. The problem with automation is that it would have to be adaptable to the wide variety of oddball sizes and shapes that I encounter.
That was great,I now have a better understanding of what I need to be looking for.Its difficult to find good wood when all the diy superstores such as B&Q, Wickes and the likes will all be looking for quantity rather than quality. I bet it's a bit more expensive when you find some though.
Not necessarily more expensive IF you go straight to the sawmill. Like many sawyers, I don't have the mark up of the superstores, and can custom cut to a customer's needs. There is probably a small sawmill in your area that would do the same. Check CraigsList.
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed the video. If you're asking about dogs of the canine variety, we have about a dozen, ranging from a Jack Russel to a Black Lab/Great Dane mix. They're all rescue dogs, and very friendly.
Great tutorial. The only thing I would say is that the blade is not level with the bubble on the spirit level. It was clear to see the uneven thickness of the last few boards cut using that method. I would hover the blade close to the top of the timber and sight it by eye to get a more accurate cut rather than use the spirit level. Thanks for the video, I learnt a lot here.
Good eye! Thanks for the idea. Even better might be to put the spirit level on top of the wood and sight that to the blade. Those last few cuts are the hardest.
2 questions: What is a reasonable fee to mill a customers tree with a machine like the HD36? Hourly/bd ft? What percentage over the desired final thickness do you cut to? If I want 1.25 final thickness should I cut 1.5 when green? Thanks. Nice video.
Good questions. I charge $60 per hour, + $1.50 per mile if I have to move the mill to the site. This encourages the customer to have everything set up when I get there, and to help out. A lot of people do charge by the board foot, but here's the way I see it-- if you hire a bulldozer, backhoe, or other heavy equipment, you pay by the hour, and I see no reason why a sawmill should be different. I tell the customer that for cutting good logs, my hourly fee comes out to about $.35/ bd ft, but specialty cutting, like quarter sawing takes longer, and gets less yield from the log, and the hourly fee compensates from that. I advise the customer to arrange the logs so that I cut the best ones first. I keep track of time & output, and let the customer know how much per board foot that log cost to mill. As we work into the poorer logs, the quality goes down and the time per board foot increases. When we reach the point where the customer feels that it isn't worth it, I stop milling, and the rest goes for firewood. That way, the customer decides how much per board foot he or she is willing to pay. $60/hr sounds like good wages, but I use the rule of thirds: 1/3 goes for taxes & insurance, 1/3 goes to mill maintenance (mostly blades), and 1/3 puts beans on the table. The maintenance part is more than necessary, but the extra gets set aside to add hydraulics and buy a new chain saw. Thickness depends on the end use. For counter tops & table tops, the rule of thumb of 1" final thickness per foot of width. To figure out how thick to saw, work backwards. To end up 1-1/4" thick, figure 1/8" loss in planing (1/16" off each side), so you need 1-3/8" thick going into the planer. You lose around 8% thickness in drying, so the board needs to be 1-1/2" off the mill. That will get you close, at least. Your results will vary by species, stress in the log, and what part of the log the board was cut from. That's a long answer to your question-- the short answer is "yes".
No, but if I ever get my ideal sawmill shed built, it will have an overhead gantry. Generally, I manage with a Case-IH 485 with pallet forks. By the way, I noticed you're really into knife blades. Ever try using band saw blades for knives?
Actually, weight on top of the blade isn't an issue at all. The kerf of the blade lets it slide through without even touching the wood, no matter how much weight is pushing down. The main reason I cut from the top is to watch the grain pattern and know when to turn the log-- and it is easier to offload boards from the top. A lot of people do cut off the bottom, because the cant is more stable that way.
I can't think of one off hand. The question is more how to get the most VALUE out of a log. If you get 75% potential yield by quartersawing sycamore, for example, but can sell it for twice as much, then you're ahead doing that. On the other hand, you might be better off sawing ash for greatest yield, or slabbing walnut for live edge table tops. It all depends on the market, the species, and the character of the individual log. I'll get back with you if I find a good reference book.
We do indeed. There is loads of useful information in Norwood's book - "The Ultimate Guide to Portable Sawmills". We have a whole chapter devoted to making various cuts including quarter sawing. There is another chapter devoted to drying wood. We have another chapter covering how to make money with your Norwood. Plus, there other chapters with great pro-sawmilling tips. We recommend you consider getting this valuable resource. It's just US$8.70 for shipping (we give the book for FREE). www.norwoodsawmills.com/en_us/ultimate-guide-to-portable-sawmills
I get the concept but from what I see that level is more than a quarter bubble off And those pieces you cut are wedged a great deal....Would it be better to line up with the blade ?
Good observation. You're right, the cuts didn't perfectly line up. The mill was set up with the crossbunks level, and the blade parallel to the crossbunks-- so in theory, at least, a level piece should be lined up with the blade, but clamping down the wood with the curved side against the stops allowed it to rotate a little. Another option is to cut off the bottom instead of the top. Lots of ways to do it. I enjoyed watching your restoration of the Reaper. Doubt I'll be putting anything like that near my face any time soon, though!
@@daveboyt6810 I am dying to get some property and a mill someday. It will come just a matter of time. I got the idea you were presenting I just got to wondering about using the blade as a gauge,,, Glad you enjoyed the restore. I got into that after getting tired of getting loans for trac 5 blades and waiting for the manager to open the case. It has a learning curve and over confidence will get you a surgical cut. But they heal fast. I have over 300 in stock now and will be me first trade to start a business around in a year or 2. I make them from scratch now and believe it or not they sell like hot cakes.
Hello Dave, I need your help. I just finished putting together the HD38 fully hydraulic and lets just say the people at Norwood have NOT been very helpful. I have a couple of question for you on the operation of the sawmill alone with the wireless remote and actuator with the 27H Honda motor. I would really appreciate your input.
Thanks! From your screen name, I'm guessing you're a metal worker. I've pounded a bit of steel, but not enough to do anything fancy. Discarded band saw blades, by the way, make great knives.
That was cool! I was thinking if you kept the last peices that were to small to work with, they might turn into table legs. If they could be used for that you could sell the entire log after it's cut as one unit. The selling feature for me would be that I could build a wood project entirely out of one log
Thanks for the comment. The problem with the table leg idea is that those pieces contain a combination of heartwood and sapwood which tends to make the piece warp (especially with walnut), and is visually less appealing. I do, however keep all the boards from an individual log stacked together for exactly the reason you mentioned, and give customers a discount when they buy the entire log. Table legs are best made from the rift grain pieces (growth rings at 45 degrees to the board), since it has a similar grain appearance on all four sides. Any way you slice it, you're going to wind up with a little firewood. This mill helps me keep that to a minimum.
Quartersawing is making a comeback. With bandsawmills like this one, it is a lot easier than it used to be, but still more time consuming than conventional sawing. Well worth the effort.
Thanks for the video. What I miss though is a video showing cutting patterns when you have inner stress in a log, which curves on you as you cut it. The results are then boards of uneven thickness and thus uneven stacking, which in turn not good for all the boards upwards in the stack. I think this is more of the challenging stuff to deal with when sawing, especially floor boards which need some accuracy. I´ve yet come across any videos dealing with this issue, I´d be greatful for any links or pointers if anyone have some.
Good idea for a video! Stress in a log presents some interesting challenges. Once you have the cant cut, keep an eye on the bottom of the cant, and make sure it is resting flat against the cross bunks. If the cant bows up or down, turn it 180, and make a skimming cut to level it before cutting boards. If a board bends up as you cut it, the wood has stress, but the thickness will be even, as long as the cant itself lays flat. Hope that makes sense. Yellow poplar is one of the worst species for internal stress, but look for off-center growth rings that indicate that the tree was leaning or that you are cutting a big branch (common with walnut lumber) instead of the main stem. When you stack wood for drying, try to put the bowed pieces on the bottom of the stack so the weight of the wood above it holds it flat as it dries. Hope this helps!
![How to Quarter Saw a Log the Easy Way! #sawmill [Quarter Sawing]](/img/n.gif)
"...I let the woodworker figure out where the hell he want's to trim that up."
Most genuine comment of the week, and a thumbs up from me.
Thanks, Per!
The effort to get stable lumber with beautiful grain is worth the sweat.
You bet it is! Especially when you see it come off the planer!
Wow, these details in 4K are incredible! Outstanding to see this gigantic mahogany log transformed into high-quality timber with such skill. Awesome craftsmanship!
Thanks for the comment. Actually it was a sycamore log, locally cut by a tree service. I love a challenge!
I don't know what it is, but I think I could sit and watch these type of videos for hours, and still get enjoyment out of them, thank you for sharing your expertise.
+Buddy Vibe Glad you're enjoying them!!
www.norwoodsawmills.com/portable-sawmills
I believe this is the first Red Green video I've ever seen without him using Duct Tape. LOL Nice video. Something like this would've been mighty handy to someone like me 50 years ago. I learned it on a tractor driven buzz saw back in the 70s. Same concept, only shifted 90 degrees. Most people don't even think about the direction of the grain when buying boards. They just buy them and trust that they work as intended. Most don't even know what a Pith is without Googling it. Let alone knowing why it isn't wise to use it in certain applications. But for those who DO want to know about Quarter Sawing, this video is a great place to start. It gives the basics with a drawn out diagram of what each board will look like as it gets cut. Each log is different. Some have a straight Pith and others meander. You never really know until you cut into it. As for the purpose, Quarter Sawn wood is structurally stronger due to the direction of the grain in reference to the width/length of the board. It will withstand the elements better, too. It's a Quality thing that good Woodworkers pay attention to. Depending on its purpose, of course.
Well, I don't care whether women find me handy or handsome, as long as they find me! Once you use a band saw, you'll never go back to circular sawing!
For someone who came across this recently. This is the best {Explanation , Showing of how to do this } Very good. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment! There are several techniques for quartersawing out there on TH-cam, but this is what I've found works best for this mill.
Remarkable! This video taught me so much about sawmilling. The way you handle those massive logs is impressive. The footage is crystal clear. I'm eagerly anticipating more content from you. Keep up the exceptional work!
Thanks for the comment. As long as you stop to think about what you're trying to do, you can generally figure out the easiest & safest way to get 'er done. I am still making videos for Norwood & enjoy every bit of it!
Most productive 16 mins I've had at work in a long time. Excellent video and love the dogs wandering around!
Thanks. My wife collects strays, but I can't complain, since she took me in!
What a pleasure it was to see a log sawn the right way ! Most people take the easy way and just cut through and through, that is why most of the timer we buy is twisted like a propeller! Many thanks for posting this.
Glad you like it! :-)
I take a lot of pride in getting the best out of every log. The "best of the best" goes into my own personal stash of lumber.
Watching the video a second time after trying it once is a real help!
Best sawmill video - humility comes to mind plus a 'correct', almost textbook demonstration of quarter-sawing. Brilliant!
Wow, thanks, Pete-- what an honor to hear from you! I just watched your BBC video from 2015, and your recent Ukulele CWD. Good to see that you are still building & playing. If I ever travel again to Great Britain (or if you visit the U.S.), I hope we can meet in person. I just put together a Stewart McDonald uke kit with my grandson, which he is learning to play, and got a second kit that I'm using as a pattern to build one for myself out of wood off the sawmill (probably walnut with a quarter-sawn sassafras soundboard for the first one). Gotta start somewhere!
Very cool - this guy knows what he wants and he is using his machine to get it. He's the master of this machine and this job. Very cool.
Thanks! I love running the mill!
I have always wanted to know the difference between quarter sawn and plain sawn and cut in half. You are the first I have seen to really explain it.
Me too! Valuable information. Thank you for a straightforward demonstration.
That was a great explanation of how to do it right. Many thanks!
Thanks for watching and for leaving the comment. There are other ways to quarter saw lumber, but this is the easiest & most efficient for this type of sawmill.
We are a wood flooring refinishing and installing company,,,,you sir geve us a very valuable information, thank you very much.
Quartersawn wood is less likely to cup and shrinks less with changes in humidity, so I can see why this is important to you. Keep in mind that woodworkers will pay a premium for salvaged quartersawn pine flooring!
Thnx for a simple well explained logical method. I love you wasted hardly anything and im sure most of us would gladly have the fire wood to make something from.
The problem is that the wood that comes off the edges is not stable and tends to warp and bow as it dries. Still, it would be good for small projects, such as pen blanks. Not wasting wood is one of the things I love about running a band saw. On a typical log, I get an extra board or two because the thin kerf wastes about half as much wood as a circle or chain saw mill.
So good Dave. Your explanation followed a very logical sequence. Probably the best explanation and demonstration I've seen on the subject. You are truly a subject matter expert.
Hi, Howard, good to hear from you. Any expertise comes from making a bunch of mistakes, and I'm still amazed at how many ways there are to mess up a cut! Stay well, and keep making sawdust!
@@daveboyt6810 Well put Dave. Very well put! PS - I just posted a public thanks for your support and all the learning you've provided me with along the way - in the most recent video on my channel. Least I could do out of appreciation . . . th-cam.com/video/0bErCbRCXx4/w-d-xo.html
Awesome! Very demonstration and explanation of the process. Thank you!
Thanks for watching and for the comment. This is just one way to do it!
This is the best tutorial I've seen on how to quarter saw a log! Bravo!
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it.
putting the lines on the log really gave a good visual
Known about quarter sawn wood for 40 years but never seen it done. Nicely shot, edited and presented.
most descriptions of quarter sawn are confusing. The way I put it it's the same as plain/plane cutting ( a little pun there) except you're ripping the board in half so there is only one side of the center. In essence all you are getting is parts that do not go beyond the center of log. I'm a mason and this is what I came up .
Thinking the same thing.
Terrific demonstration of quarter sawn. My father was a wood shop teacher for nearly forty years and always admired the quarter sawn lumber. Said it is more stable then the other cuts.
I personally like those flecks that show.
It is more stable. Some species show more flecks than others. Oak & sycamore are beautiful. Well worth the extra effort!
maximum yield of high-value lumber
zero waste of useable lumber and he references scrap for firewood
very conscientious and smart sawyer
very well done sir
... and I had fun doing it!
You have an awesome presence and a natural teaching demeanor. Very enjoyable to watch!!
Thanks!
Wow! Awesome.. I gotta try this on my mill! Thank you well done. Brief, to the point, well illustrated etc. Excellent!
Thanks! Let me know how it works out.
Quarter and riff saw is the only way to go. I see now it's a lot more work, but as a woodworker for 35 years it's pretty much the only type of wood I use. Glad to see you take the time and do it right.
I agree that it has a lot of advantages. Even wood like walnut that doesn't have a ray structure that stands out is beautiful when quartersawn. I cut wood they way the customer wants, but definitely recommend quartersawn.
It is a lot more work if you follow this method.
heloy sr good morning i love the l'échine haow moch a you salling?
in box me place
I've been cutting everything flat, just learning and getting started. I'm going to give this method a try. You explained it nicely. Thank you!
Let me know how it works out! I started out with a small sawmill about like yours, but pretty soon, I needed a bigger mill to handle bigger logs. Even with the HD36, I mill logs that push the limits, but with a little determination, there's always a way. I enjoyed you channel, by the way, looking forward to watching more of your videos as time permits.
Thanks for checking us out, Dave! I'm really looking forward to trying out quarter-sawing. That's the fate of the next 20 inch log I get on the mill. Your sawmill is impressive and I envy some of your nice features, like the locks. I'm sure we'll go bigger and better one day. I got the sawdust in the veins now too!
i would like to thank you for the information you gave me. You are an insperation to me as a teacher. Your descriptions were accurate and informative. Thank you for your time and for helping the next generation understand things that they may have otherwise missed.
+Ashley Nevins we're glad you enjoyed it!
I am thexnewest of Sawyers and have seen several attempts to explain quarrersawing.
Dave has done the best most thorough explanation of any. The little add ins based on his experience are so valuable. Thanks for this presentation, I am subscribed snd ready for the next lesson.
I really appreciate how well thought out the presentations are. I’ve enjoyed them so much that I’ve watched them more than once!👍💪👌
Thanks for watching & for leaving your comment. Even a bad day at the sawmill is better than a good day doing just about anything else.!
Hey Dave ,this is Dave. Great video. Im looking for that big walnut still. Thanks for coming out to mill the cedar and letting me and Jake work with you,it was a pleasure.
Hi, Dave, glad you found the video. Looking forward to working with you again soon!
Thank you for sharing your instructive video. You explained the art with such clarity. A skill only won by deep experience.
Thanks, but I'm still learning.
I really appreciate your knowledge and the quality of video you made here for us. And I hope this doesn't offend you, because I think it's a compliment, but you're a dead ringer for Mr. Red Green!
Uh, thanks... I guess... I do buy duct tape by the case, but don't much care whether women find me handy or handsome, as long as they find me! I come by my Red Green ingenuity from my Dad. Growing up in the late '50s, we had two washing machines-- one would only agitate, and the other would only spin. We also had two televisions, one with picture, the other with sound.
@@daveboyt6810 You got new subscriber with this!
Thank You for an informative presentation! Years of experience deserve respect! Knowledge expressed well.
Thanks! I enjoyed your video on the Old Chillicothe Village. Maybe in a couple hundred years someone will dredge up this video as an example of the primitive conditions in Missouri in the early 21st century.
excellent demonstration, the best I've seen yet. I actually understand what you;re doing.
Thanks. Took me a long time to work it all out. Helps to have the right tools.
Then you're ahead of him in the game. LOL!
re: the modified cutting pattern around the 11 min mark: What I've done with my Norwood is to set the cut 5/4 off the bunks (or whatever thickness desired) and cut the board off the bottom. That way, I don't have to 1) mess with constantly try to level the small log and 2) adjust the cutting height.
Thanks for the vid. Please keep it up.
johnsobj That is the way I would do it too. Accuracy is greatly improved as is safety.
Tom Novak approx 7:30 mark: Can also do each of the top/bottom pieces individually so the wider piece doesn't have as much waste. I use a scrap when securing it so I don't scar the face of the wood.
Good idea. Guess I'm just too used to pulling boards off the top. In poker, dealing off the bottom can get you shot!
+Dave Boyt may be the machinist in me, but the more stable the workpiece is, the better the end product will be.
Guess I'm not much of a poker player. lol. But you're probably right.
same page here!! even if a level is needed, how'z'bout a bullet level, eh??? anyway, twas a fun watch
I 𝗿𝗲𝗮𝗹𝗹𝘆 enjoyed this video. Got some good 𝙢𝙖𝙣𝙡𝙮 education, plus enjoyed seeing the use of a great tool in the portable sawmill. Been learning about Gerstner tool chests, which are made with quartersawn, and in researching the word wound up actually learning something worthwhile. Thanks very much.
Glad you enjoyed it. I'll have to check out Gerstner tool chests. Always looking for new projects!
Thank you for presenting this video. I needed some quarter sawn oak for a steam bending project. I took several logs to a local Amish sawyer two days ago. A couple were white oak and the rest black walnut. We used your process to quarter saw one of the oak logs, 3 different ways, just as you did in this video. And it worked out very well.
Now I think we know what we are doing!
I had taken 4 red oak logs to the same guy 2 months ago and I had asked him to quarter saw them, but he had misunderstood me (or I just communicated badly). Anyway, that didn't work out very well.
So this time, I made a single page collage of pictures of you doing the various steps and it worked out very well.
Thanks again,
Pete Stanaitis
----------------------
+Frenchcreekvalley .frenchcreekvalley
Glad it helped!! :-)
Loved the video...great explanation you gave sir. thanks you so much....I also noticed the bucket on the saw mill....very wise man...lol BB
Thanks. Yeh, we compost some of the sawdust for the garden and I get plenty of exercise without shoveling!
Great video. It's a real pleasure watching some one who knows their business and is good at it taking care to do a job the right way. Well done and thanks for posting.
Thanks Herb!
Great presentation...love the markings on the wood to indicate your plan, and you explained everything so clearly. It was an informative and RELAXING watch. Thank you! :)
Thanks. Actually, I find milling lumber relaxing when the weather is good.
Excellent video!!! Quarter sawing is a lot of extra work but should bring WAY more money. I know I would pay more.
That's the whole idea... getting the most value out of a log. I've even milled hollow logs using this method.
I love the look of quarterd sawn white oak. I have a dining room table made of it with an OCS Boston stain and love it. I am thinking of getting a kitchen island top in quarter sawn oak now. I will probably have an Amish furniture company make it for me. Thanks for helping to make this beautiful wood available to us consumers.
One of my greatest pleasures is seeing how woodworkers use the wood that comes off my mill. I'm pleased to be a link between the log and the end product.
very good video. your love for wood and saw milling shines through!
Thanks. Yes, I'm fortunate to be able to do this. It is actually easier and more affordable than most people think, and I meet some amazing people along the way.
great job showing how to quarter saw lumber . Thanks for you U tube video !!
Nice explanation , I really like your bucket over the sawdust chute. That will keep it off of the ground and clean in case you want to repurpose it and less cleanup too.
Sawdust is collected and mixed with manure for garden compost. I don't waste much!
Great educational vid. Thank you, from a Newbie sawmill owner. I have three Maple logs that will be quartersawn in the next few days.
Congratulations on the mill... you'll love making sawdust. Quartersawn maple is pretty, but doesn't have the ray flecks like oak or sycamore. Which mill are you using?
@@daveboyt6810 Frontier OS27, with a trailer under it. It cuts pretty good.
Dave, really enjoyed your video! I'm a City Slicker but always dig a good wood or sawmill video! Greetings from Hollywood California!
Good to hear from you. I'm still waiting for a Hollywood producer to discover me!
@@daveboyt6810 for that you need to be here! It's a very competitive landscape!
@ Nope, I'm stayin' put right here in Missouri!
Awesome job! This is what youtube was made for.
Thanks for that! Are you a sawyer or woodworker?
@@daveboyt6810 I am neither presently. We live on 6.5 acres of woods mostly oak, hickory, walnut, and maple. I want to get into woodworking as I have lots of material. Thanks for sharing.
So I've been milling logs (for my own use) for almost 20 years. I probably learned more in this 15 minute video than I have in those 20 years.
Never stop learning! As they say, "Good judgment comes from experience, and experience comes from bad judgement". Words to live by!
@Bert Clayton as a former teacher I really like your perspective. Very insightful and sometimes it is not the subject but the way in which it is shared, discussed, and interpreted. That makes all of the difference! Thanks for sharing.
This is one of the greatest Videos I have ever seen. Thank you.
Thanks for your kind words. The mill provides a lot of enjoyment and every log is different!
Very nice instructional video. Love your helpers, there. Though they don't seem to be all that much help.
Actually they're the brains of the operation. Lacking opposable thumbs, they bark out the orders.
Good one Dave!!! :-) +Dave Boyt
Very well done video.
Thanks for posting!!
This a really nice outfit, has plenty of power. You do nice work and don't have much waste at all, enjoyed your video and
learned a few things as well. Thank You..
+Joseph M Thanks Joseph!!
www.norwoodsawmills.com/portable-sawmills
You're right on all counts. I've pushed that mill to the max and it always comes through! Never yet had a log that I couldn't mill, even if I have to quarter it with a chain saw first.
At 10:15 mark, why not lay it flat on log bed and make cut to get a board off the bottom of the cant? That way it will be perfectly level. The saw can cut under that thick of wood it appears.
Thanks for the comment. You are right. A lot of people do it that way, and I could have shown doing it both ways. The reason I prefer to cut off the top is that it lets me see what the grain on the next piece will be. Sometimes it is better to make a couple of cuts from the same side.
Sir, you presented yourself very well. Your explanation of how to quarter saw and get the most useable product from a large log was interesting and informative. Thanks and keep that saw blade sharp. **** 1/2
Thanks!
Thanks so much for the time you took to produce such a great instructional video. Wish I had a mill.
Norwood, Nice job with the editing to make this look simpler than it is.
Thanks for the kind words. Quartersawing that log isn't that complicated, but it does help to have a plan. A lot like playing Tetris, only in reverse (taking the log apart instead of putting it together.
Great educational/instruction video.. Thanks! 👍👍👍
My pleasure. Will have more posted soon!
Simply explained. Thank you Sir. 🇺🇸
Thanks, Jerry!
Very informative. Thanks for posting. It really does seem like a pain as the operator said, but the beauty of 1/4 sawn wood is worth it.
Just takes more time, actually. A labor of love!
Very nice Machine. Thanks for the explanation on quarter sawing. Appreciate it! Keep up the good work! Thanks.
+Sunny One Glad you enjoyed it!
www.norwoodsawmills.com/portable-sawmills
Norwood Portable Sawmills Yes I really did! There are not a lot of Mills around today That even know how to cut and get those Beautiful Quarter Sawn Planks. Or Maybe they just want to get the most Planks they can and forget about Quarter Sawn. Thanks again!
That's what I love about the Norwood mill. It has the versatility and flexibility to do this kind of cutting. There are more of these mills out there than you might think!
On the last wedge instead of trying to get it leveled up, just put the cut side on the deck and make a bottom cut, then flip it 90 degrees to the other cut side and make a bottom cut. Do this flipping back and forth with bottom cuts until you are down to the "firewood" wedge.
Nice video. I was wondering, with the quarter sawing at the end of the video, would it have been easier to have the log flat on the bed and cut the boards from the bottom of the log, that way having the log weight to your advantage and not having to worry about the levelling issues every cut while just needing to flip flop the log as required.
Good observation. You're right, and a lot of sawyers do just that for that reason. A lot of mills have limits on how thick that last piece can be cut, and cutting from the top lets me cut any thickness I want, plus I don't have to move the wood if I want to take a second cut.
I was going to ask this. Thanks for your explanation of why you could do it either way.
I like it was an off cut from another logging operation. Looks like a fun way to spend a fall day
It is amazing how much "scrap" I get from loggers & tree services! It is great to turn it into something useful.
Thank you for the fantastic demonstration and my increase in knowledge i don’t use oak as I’m a guitar builder but quarter-sawn lumber in my craft is essential
Good to hear from you, Brad. I'm an amateur luthier, myself (mostly dulcimers), and set aside the best cherry and walnut for bodies, and use quartersawn sycamore and sassafras for soundboards. I have a beautiful quartersawn spruce wing spar from a 1940s Aeronca Champ set aside for soundboard material. Antique aircraft restorers typically replace the wing spars, and I'm always looking for more!
Dave Boyt Nice to to hear from a fellow builder. I have built 3 dulcimers but mostly guitars and ukes, getting some walnut out of Buffalo from a tree cut about 20 years ago should be great stay safe
@@bradhibbitts8188 I just finished my first uke, from a Stewart McDonald kit, which I'll use as a pattern for my next one. I wrote an article about building dulcimers for Woodcraft magazine, and they made this video of the process: th-cam.com/video/tWP2FHBCOTg/w-d-xo.html
Let me know if you want to try some sycamore or sassafras soundboards. You can contact me a dboyt.42@gmail.com
Thanks for sharing your skills and experience, I really enjoy your video. I love to work with woods. With that skills and fine machene you got, I'll be so happy. Take it easy.
Lots of woodworkers are using bandsaw mills because that's the only way they can get exactly the right lumber for their projects. Next best thing is to have the wood custom cut by a sawyer who can custom cut for you.
Good job, very uplifting and inspiring
Thanks. Hard to believe I can make a living doing something I enjoy so much!
Very nice clear demo, I've always wondered what quarter sawn really meant.
Not being a smart Alec but have wondered watching several of these mills run why guys don’t use a jib pole with an electric hoist to help move a lot of the heavier materials. Seems like it might help protect backs and toes.
Not a bad idea. When you look at sawmills, you'll see about every possible way of doing things. A lot of the mills (including Norwood) have options for hydraulic lifts and turners that are even better.
Loved the video best one I've seen on quarter sawing Thanks keep up the good work
Glad you liked it. Whether you're a sawyer or woodworker, it pays to pay attention to the grain.
I worked in a veneer mill operating a veneer slicer and a dry kiln where I operated a double edge trim saw and a chop saw but I knew nothing about cutting lumber until just now.
I'm still learning... and in the case of hitting log stops with the blade, re-learning. Every log presents its own challenge and reward.
What do you keep in the red bucket that hangs off the opposite side of your mill? Does your sawmill require a blade lubricant?
The red bucket is my solution to sawdust. I cut a piece of a tire to deflect the sawdust down. Usually, I let it go on the ground, but I can catch it in a bucket when I'm milling in someone's yard or want to use the sawdust for compost. As for lubricant, I've heard a lot both ways, but generally don't use it, since freshly cut logs are roughly half water by weight. I do use it with a little Pine-Sol when sap build-up on the blade is a problem as it often is in the spring.
Wow! What an interestingly great video! Thanks for the explanation of quarter-sawn, etc. I juts wonder how you deal with the weight of the log behind the cut and why it doesn't jam-up the saw. I didn't see any wedges in the video and wonder if you insert spacers, etc. Anyway, thanks for a great video.
The blade is narrow and think-kerf. The portion of the log not yet cut (in front of the blade) holds the cut open in advance of the blade. Norwood sawmills have been in production for nearly 30 years; this technology has many years of success in the field.
Thanks for the comment. The set in the teeth of the blade makes the kerf about 1mm wider than the thickness of the blade itself, which lets the blade slide through without need for wedges. Total kerf of the cut is about 3.2 mm.
Hello. Nice information. I was wondering would it not be easier to flip the log and cut a inch off the bottom of the log and that way you won't have to keep putting ur level on it. Just use the bottom bunk. Thanks
Thanks for the comment. You're right, a lot of sawyers cut off the bottom, and it works just as well. I just got started off the top and kept on going that way.
I saw off the bunk for quarter sawing... but either way, it's a lot of work...in my opinion, it's worth it...way better lumber
Great to see someone skilled.
Thanks! I'm still learning.
I want to work with this guy. He seems like a wealth of information.
Why not? Come on over & I'll put you to work! I'm in southwest Missouri, not hard to find.
Thanks for that. Wish there was one of those in my area.
I loved your voice. Reminds me of the Older disney movie narrators I watched when I was younger.
+Old_Phart There are Norwoods in every corner of America. If you want to see one in action, just give us a shout at 1-800-567-0404 and we can find one very close to you. Thanks
Really well explained . Good work. You just need some automation to take away some of the labour. Great work
I'm thinking about ways to make it easier. The problem with automation is that it would have to be adaptable to the wide variety of oddball sizes and shapes that I encounter.
Nice Mill! Would love to have one! Thanks for the share!
Great info. Enjoyed video. Vs using a level, consider squaring the log with the resting position of the saw blade. That will insure true/even cuts.
Good observation. Of course the first thing the woodworker does is edge it on a jointer.
That was great,I now have a better understanding of what I need to be looking for.Its difficult to find good wood when all the diy superstores such as B&Q, Wickes and the likes will all be looking for quantity rather than quality. I bet it's a bit more expensive when you find some though.
Not necessarily more expensive IF you go straight to the sawmill. Like many sawyers, I don't have the mark up of the superstores, and can custom cut to a customer's needs. There is probably a small sawmill in your area that would do the same. Check CraigsList.
Very enjoyable video. Its good to see and hear an expert at work. One question,how many dogs do you have?
Hi Peter
Standard, the Norwood HD36 comes with two rests and two dogs.
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed the video. If you're asking about dogs of the canine variety, we have about a dozen, ranging from a Jack Russel to a Black Lab/Great Dane mix. They're all rescue dogs, and very friendly.
Thank you for this video!!! Fellow Norwooder.
Great tutorial. The only thing I would say is that the blade is not level with the bubble on the spirit level. It was clear to see the uneven thickness of the last few boards cut using that method. I would hover the blade close to the top of the timber and sight it by eye to get a more accurate cut rather than use the spirit level. Thanks for the video, I learnt a lot here.
Good eye! Thanks for the idea. Even better might be to put the spirit level on top of the wood and sight that to the blade. Those last few cuts are the hardest.
2 questions:
What is a reasonable fee to mill a customers tree with a machine like the HD36? Hourly/bd ft?
What percentage over the desired final thickness do you cut to? If I want 1.25 final thickness should I cut 1.5 when green?
Thanks. Nice video.
Good questions. I charge $60 per hour, + $1.50 per mile if I have to move the mill to the site. This encourages the customer to have everything set up when I get there, and to help out. A lot of people do charge by the board foot, but here's the way I see it-- if you hire a bulldozer, backhoe, or other heavy equipment, you pay by the hour, and I see no reason why a sawmill should be different. I tell the customer that for cutting good logs, my hourly fee comes out to about $.35/ bd ft, but specialty cutting, like quarter sawing takes longer, and gets less yield from the log, and the hourly fee compensates from that. I advise the customer to arrange the logs so that I cut the best ones first. I keep track of time & output, and let the customer know how much per board foot that log cost to mill. As we work into the poorer logs, the quality goes down and the time per board foot increases. When we reach the point where the customer feels that it isn't worth it, I stop milling, and the rest goes for firewood. That way, the customer decides how much per board foot he or she is willing to pay. $60/hr sounds like good wages, but I use the rule of thirds: 1/3 goes for taxes & insurance, 1/3 goes to mill maintenance (mostly blades), and 1/3 puts beans on the table. The maintenance part is more than necessary, but the extra gets set aside to add hydraulics and buy a new chain saw.
Thickness depends on the end use. For counter tops & table tops, the rule of thumb of 1" final thickness per foot of width. To figure out how thick to saw, work backwards. To end up 1-1/4" thick, figure 1/8" loss in planing (1/16" off each side), so you need 1-3/8" thick going into the planer. You lose around 8% thickness in drying, so the board needs to be 1-1/2" off the mill. That will get you close, at least. Your results will vary by species, stress in the log, and what part of the log the board was cut from. That's a long answer to your question-- the short answer is "yes".
Have you ever tried to set up an A-frame with an electric winch to move your logs around? Over the mill.
No, but if I ever get my ideal sawmill shed built, it will have an overhead gantry. Generally, I manage with a Case-IH 485 with pallet forks. By the way, I noticed you're really into knife blades. Ever try using band saw blades for knives?
Other than weight on top of the blade, is there any reason to cut the plank from the top?
Because you can then offload the sawn boards.
Actually, weight on top of the blade isn't an issue at all. The kerf of the blade lets it slide through without even touching the wood, no matter how much weight is pushing down. The main reason I cut from the top is to watch the grain pattern and know when to turn the log-- and it is easier to offload boards from the top. A lot of people do cut off the bottom, because the cant is more stable that way.
Hello, is there a reference book to get the most wood out of a log like you just demonstrated?
thank you
I can't think of one off hand. The question is more how to get the most VALUE out of a log. If you get 75% potential yield by quartersawing sycamore, for example, but can sell it for twice as much, then you're ahead doing that. On the other hand, you might be better off sawing ash for greatest yield, or slabbing walnut for live edge table tops. It all depends on the market, the species, and the character of the individual log. I'll get back with you if I find a good reference book.
@@daveboyt6810 Thank’s
We do indeed.
There is loads of useful information in Norwood's book - "The Ultimate Guide to Portable Sawmills".
We have a whole chapter devoted to making various cuts including quarter sawing. There is another chapter devoted to drying wood. We have another chapter covering how to make money with your Norwood. Plus, there other chapters with great pro-sawmilling tips.
We recommend you consider getting this valuable resource. It's just US$8.70 for shipping (we give the book for FREE).
www.norwoodsawmills.com/en_us/ultimate-guide-to-portable-sawmills
what type of wood is this?
Thanks for great videos.
Black oak. Amazing what you get when you open up an ugly log!
I get the concept but from what I see that level is more than a quarter bubble off And those pieces you cut are wedged a great deal....Would it be better to line up with the blade ?
Good observation. You're right, the cuts didn't perfectly line up. The mill was set up with the crossbunks level, and the blade parallel to the crossbunks-- so in theory, at least, a level piece should be lined up with the blade, but clamping down the wood with the curved side against the stops allowed it to rotate a little. Another option is to cut off the bottom instead of the top. Lots of ways to do it. I enjoyed watching your restoration of the Reaper. Doubt I'll be putting anything like that near my face any time soon, though!
@@daveboyt6810 I am dying to get some property and a mill someday. It will come just a matter of time. I got the idea you were presenting I just got to wondering about using the blade as a gauge,,, Glad you enjoyed the restore. I got into that after getting tired of getting loans for trac 5 blades and waiting for the manager to open the case. It has a learning curve and over confidence will get you a surgical cut. But they heal fast. I have over 300 in stock now and will be me first trade to start a business around in a year or 2. I make them from scratch now and believe it or not they sell like hot cakes.
Very useful and great video! Thanks.
Thanks. Glad you liked it!
Thanks for your great video about Portable Norwood Sawmills and the great work you showed us !! greetings from Sweden
now i truly understand quarter sawed logs mean and know how to do it thank you.
Hello Dave, I need your help. I just finished putting together the HD38 fully hydraulic and lets just say the people at Norwood have NOT been very helpful. I have a couple of question for you on the operation of the sawmill alone with the wireless remote and actuator with the 27H Honda motor. I would really appreciate your input.
Thank you Dave. Love everything about your vid! You are amazing.
Thanks! From your screen name, I'm guessing you're a metal worker. I've pounded a bit of steel, but not enough to do anything fancy. Discarded band saw blades, by the way, make great knives.
That was cool! I was thinking if you kept the last peices that were to small to work with, they might turn into table legs. If they could be used for that you could sell the entire log after it's cut as one unit. The selling feature for me would be that I could build a wood project entirely out of one log
Thanks for the comment. The problem with the table leg idea is that those pieces contain a combination of heartwood and sapwood which tends to make the piece warp (especially with walnut), and is visually less appealing. I do, however keep all the boards from an individual log stacked together for exactly the reason you mentioned, and give customers a discount when they buy the entire log. Table legs are best made from the rift grain pieces (growth rings at 45 degrees to the board), since it has a similar grain appearance on all four sides. Any way you slice it, you're going to wind up with a little firewood. This mill helps me keep that to a minimum.
I enjoyed, and gleaned a lot. Many thanks
Badass presentation and easy to understand. This is a lost art and much misunderstood. FYI the video got fuzzy at 12 minutes
Quartersawing is making a comeback. With bandsawmills like this one, it is a lot easier than it used to be, but still more time consuming than conventional sawing. Well worth the effort.
Very well explained! Looks like a fun tool.
Maybe not for everyone, but I sure enjoy it!
Great video, really clear explanations.
Thanks. I enjoy your videos, too. I'm trying to move from sawmilling to woodworking, but too many jobs, right now.
@@daveboyt6810 cheers Dave, appreciate that.
Thanks for the video. What I miss though is a video showing cutting patterns when you have inner stress in a log, which curves on you as you cut it. The results are then boards of uneven thickness and thus uneven stacking, which in turn not good for all the boards upwards in the stack. I think this is more of the challenging stuff to deal with when sawing, especially floor boards which need some accuracy. I´ve yet come across any videos dealing with this issue, I´d be greatful for any links or pointers if anyone have some.
Great idea for a new video. I will reach out to Dave to see if he can give you any pointers now. Thanks
Good idea for a video! Stress in a log presents some interesting challenges. Once you have the cant cut, keep an eye on the bottom of the cant, and make sure it is resting flat against the cross bunks. If the cant bows up or down, turn it 180, and make a skimming cut to level it before cutting boards. If a board bends up as you cut it, the wood has stress, but the thickness will be even, as long as the cant itself lays flat. Hope that makes sense. Yellow poplar is one of the worst species for internal stress, but look for off-center growth rings that indicate that the tree was leaning or that you are cutting a big branch (common with walnut lumber) instead of the main stem. When you stack wood for drying, try to put the bowed pieces on the bottom of the stack so the weight of the wood above it holds it flat as it dries. Hope this helps!
@@daveboyt6810 Great info. I am learning a lot!