JB Weld is not a sponsor, there is always a way to repair/modify the original design. Fuel injection eliminated a lot of the carburetor issue's in modern cars it is a walk down memory lane fixing carbs on the picnic table. Granted you have raised my level of hindsight, I had a 65 2dr Corsa (35 yes ago). Great job!
In case you don't know it but the carbs for the motors had different idle circuit opening points depending on trans, horsepower, and the year. In better terms, the idle speed, airflow, and fuel flow were different in relation to the throttle plate position at idle and off idle. Not much and most people don't notice it but I am a perfectionist when it came to my carbs LOL I got the smoothest idle and best power when the carbs were just what came on the motor originally. I tried other carbs from other motors but they never quite worked as well. I won't tell you what I did to correct the cornering problem :)...I did not relocate the jets but solved the problem anyway.
A better method to test a float is to immerse them in hot water which causes the air to expand inside. If there are any pin holes they will show up right away.
This is a great video! My 67 (110hp) driver's side carb has weak to no spray, so I'm thinking it may be time to rebuild both carbs just to know where I'm at. This video came at the right time! Great info. I may modify some old carbs I have recently acquired like this and try them out eventually. Thanks!
I never understood why GM made their air cleaners with snouts that reduced in size restricting air flow. I liked to take the snout off a second unit and make mine a double similar to the 140hp style. Also modded the tops of the carbs with extended tubes to raise the vent to keep sloshing fuel out of the carb throat.
You'll see the extended vent tubes in this video, and my quick cheat to get around the small snorkel is to flip the air cleaner lid upside down and expose the filter element. I do think that the 90 degree turn into the carbs from the stock crossover pipe is restrictive as well - on the race track the butt dyno reports a noticeable improvement at high RPM with the whole air cleaner assembly removed.
I have not run one personally. I have one in the garage and might give it a try at some point! The conventional wisdom is that at any lower temperatures (like under 50-60 degrees F), the carb will tend to ice up because you're not getting much engine heat into the carb when it's sitting in the air above the cooling fan. The fix is often to run engine oil up to the carb base and build a small heat exchanger into the base of the 4-barrel manifold. That prevents icing and might even give you a tiny bit more oil cooling as well, a win-win.
I tried a 4bbl center mount. It was disappointing, to say the least. Way too many problems with the carb to get it to work right. Tried a 2 bbl center mount also and it worked better but I needed a Holley 2210 carb to get it to work and they are not available anymore LOL. I would suggest switching to fuel injection if you really want to make an improvement for your Vairs.
Ok its 2 years old but maybe somebody will be helped from these tips Its not a secondary carb the carbs are offset on the 140 because of the firing order and the way the pulses in the intake are spaced. The 4 carbs should be identical for this reason. The air horn you cut out is to help fuel distribution and atomization coming from the boosters. cutting It out may help flow and power at higher RPMs but hurt low and mid range . The vents could be a u shape one to the other with a hole at the top. Eliminating the enrichment circuit will require a larger main jet and if you do one you need to do all 4. Its not a good idea since what the enrichment circuit is doing is making it so at light throttle high vacuum the engine can be a little lean and crisp but once you open the throttle it will richen the mixture as the vacuum drops. Very similar to a map sensor on a modern car. Them there factory engineers are smarter than you thing it the bean counters that mess things up. Also one thing about the front suspension on a corvair the Ackerman is backwards that's really bad it maybe a crude attempt to tighten the car up really crude. if you can drive solving that will really help but it will handle like a Porsche really loose
Great video! is this the only Corvair You own? I liked the late sedans ,the only early sedans I liked was the 60! do You only use electric fuel pumps,if so why? man I got get back into my Corvairs 64 Greenbrier ,65 Corsa turbo & 67 Monza drop top, got turn wrenches on other stuff for now.Love the Vairs!
I think most Corvair owners would tell you it's hard to own just one! I've had 6-7 of them over the years but this has been my "keeper" for over 2 decades now. Electric fuel pumps are a hot debate, but it seems like the available remanufactured mechanical pumps leak almost immediately for many people, me included. The first 10 years or so I had no trouble with them, but it seems like the ones you can buy now just can't handle ethanol in the fuel or something. I'm electric-only now and won't look back.
@@FlawlessPlanGarageI guess it's like a electronic ignition I'll never go back to points either & like Petes hot sauce I put it on everything!!!!! ( LOL ) thanks for the reply .
You can also run the Buick distributorless ignition if you can get the pieces but the HEI shown works just great as is and keeps you from getting headaches LOL
JB Weld is not a sponsor, there is always a way to repair/modify the original design. Fuel injection eliminated a lot of the carburetor issue's in modern cars it is a walk down memory lane fixing carbs on the picnic table. Granted you have raised my level of hindsight, I had a 65 2dr Corsa (35 yes ago). Great job!
These are great looking 4dr cars. While I always had Corsa coupes I'd definitely go for a 4dr now.
What an informative and entertaining video Armen. It's always helpful to see where the potential pitfalls are. Thanks for producing it.
In case you don't know it but the carbs for the motors had different idle circuit opening points depending on trans, horsepower, and the year. In better terms, the idle speed, airflow, and fuel flow were different in relation to the throttle plate position at idle and off idle. Not much and most people don't notice it but I am a perfectionist when it came to my carbs LOL I got the smoothest idle and best power when the carbs were just what came on the motor originally. I tried other carbs from other motors but they never quite worked as well. I won't tell you what I did to correct the cornering problem :)...I did not relocate the jets but solved the problem anyway.
True, there are a ton of minor differences year to year. I wasn't trying to replace great resources like Bob Helt's book!
A better method to test a float is to immerse them in hot water which causes the air to expand inside. If there are any pin holes they will show up right away.
Thanks, Rick!
Awesome video, thank you!
This is a great video! My 67 (110hp) driver's side carb has weak to no spray, so I'm thinking it may be time to rebuild both carbs just to know where I'm at. This video came at the right time! Great info. I may modify some old carbs I have recently acquired like this and try them out eventually. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it! I didn't really cover a full rebuild in this video, as mine didn't need it, but it's not difficult, just take your time.
Nice video !
Yeah i'm not the only one to break something while "fixing" it! What did you do for the primary to get it to squirt? Just need to clean it?
Yep, took it apart, cleaned it, put it back together and it worked! For now, anyway....
I never understood why GM made their air cleaners with snouts that reduced in size restricting air flow. I liked to take the snout off a second unit and make mine a double similar to the 140hp style. Also modded the tops of the carbs with extended tubes to raise the vent to keep sloshing fuel out of the carb throat.
You'll see the extended vent tubes in this video, and my quick cheat to get around the small snorkel is to flip the air cleaner lid upside down and expose the filter element.
I do think that the 90 degree turn into the carbs from the stock crossover pipe is restrictive as well - on the race track the butt dyno reports a noticeable improvement at high RPM with the whole air cleaner assembly removed.
What's your take on the 4bbl intake for these cars
I have not run one personally. I have one in the garage and might give it a try at some point! The conventional wisdom is that at any lower temperatures (like under 50-60 degrees F), the carb will tend to ice up because you're not getting much engine heat into the carb when it's sitting in the air above the cooling fan. The fix is often to run engine oil up to the carb base and build a small heat exchanger into the base of the 4-barrel manifold. That prevents icing and might even give you a tiny bit more oil cooling as well, a win-win.
I tried a 4bbl center mount. It was disappointing, to say the least. Way too many problems with the carb to get it to work right. Tried a 2 bbl center mount also and it worked better but I needed a Holley 2210 carb to get it to work and they are not available anymore LOL. I would suggest switching to fuel injection if you really want to make an improvement for your Vairs.
Ok its 2 years old but maybe somebody will be helped from these tips
Its not a secondary carb the carbs are offset on the 140 because of the firing order and the way the pulses in the intake are spaced. The 4 carbs should be identical for this reason. The air horn you cut out is to help fuel distribution and atomization coming from the boosters. cutting It out may help flow and power at higher RPMs but hurt low and mid range .
The vents could be a u shape one to the other with a hole at the top.
Eliminating the enrichment circuit will require a larger main jet and if you do one you need to do all 4.
Its not a good idea since what the enrichment circuit is doing is making it so at light throttle high vacuum the engine can be a little lean and crisp but once you open the throttle it will richen the mixture as the vacuum drops. Very similar to a map sensor on a modern car. Them there factory engineers are smarter than you thing it the bean counters that mess things up.
Also one thing about the front suspension on a corvair the Ackerman is backwards that's really bad it maybe a crude attempt to tighten the car up really crude. if you can drive solving that will really help but it will handle like a Porsche really loose
Great video! is this the only Corvair You own? I liked the late sedans ,the only early sedans I liked was the 60! do You only use electric fuel pumps,if so why? man I got get back into my Corvairs 64 Greenbrier ,65 Corsa turbo & 67 Monza drop top, got turn wrenches on other stuff for now.Love the Vairs!
I think most Corvair owners would tell you it's hard to own just one! I've had 6-7 of them over the years but this has been my "keeper" for over 2 decades now.
Electric fuel pumps are a hot debate, but it seems like the available remanufactured mechanical pumps leak almost immediately for many people, me included. The first 10 years or so I had no trouble with them, but it seems like the ones you can buy now just can't handle ethanol in the fuel or something. I'm electric-only now and won't look back.
@@FlawlessPlanGarageI guess it's like a electronic ignition I'll never go back to points either & like Petes hot sauce I put it on everything!!!!! ( LOL ) thanks for the reply .
What ignition/distributor are you running?
It's an early version of Seth Emerson's billet HEI setup. I believe you can get them from Clark's now. It's a very nice, high-quality piece.
You can also run the Buick distributorless ignition if you can get the pieces but the HEI shown works just great as is and keeps you from getting headaches LOL
Holley sniper EFI
Yep, seen several Corvair guys running those and it looks really cool!
@@FlawlessPlanGarage I put one on my Triumph Spitfire Wow what a
Difference, I don't think I'll ever go back to carbs