How to Dress in an 18th Century Robe a l'Anglaise / Italian Gown
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- Have you ever wondered how women in the 18th century got dressed? What are all the layers of an 18th-century outfit, how do you put them on, and in what order? Lauren demonstrates getting dressed in an 18th century Robe a l'Anglaise (also known as an Italian Gown) from the 1780s, starting with the chemise, stockings, and shoes. She shows lacing the stays (corset), putting on accessories, skirt supports, and the final petticoat and gown.
Many of the garments and pieces in this video were made for or using the techniques in "The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking," available here: www.american-d...
FAQ:
* The yellow gown and petticoat are made of silk taffeta trimmed with silk-cotton voile, and are completely hand-sewn.
* The stays are boned with plastic zip ties, which mimic baleen whalebone.
* The shoes are "Dunmore" in red from www.AmericanDuc...
* The stockings are over-the-knee silk clocked stockings from www.AmericanDuc...
* The shift is made of 100% linen
* The split bum was made for the book "The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking" which you can buy here: www.american-d...
The music in this video is from Epidemic Sound
"Ava" by Kasper Schill - www.epidemicso...
"Life on the Mainland" by Infiniti Ripple - www.epidemicso...
"The Rain Against My Window" by Johannes Bornlof - www.epidemicso...
"Dismantle" by Peter Sandberg - www.epidemicso...
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1780's Maid " How many pins shall I use to dress you Madam?" "Yes"
haha, as many as it takes to keep this thing from popping open all the sudden!
Didn't the pins destroy the material after time?
@@tinarose5261 Not to mention get caught on or scratch things 🤷🏾♀️
@@sheranlanger247 Watch how she manipulates the pins. The pin is 1st pricked into the outer layer very near the edge going from top layer across toward the inner layer. It then is 'tipped over' and is pushed into the inner layer going back under the outer layer. It can also be slid into the outer layer of the stays. The pin is pressed in up to its head and the tip is buried so there is nothing to get caught on or scratched by. It works like a charm!
@@tinarose5261 I think they could have just mended it
Not going to lie, the stays and under-petticoat actually make for a pretty cute outfit on their own.
Kindof shepherdess-y!
I think some women in working class could actually get away with that, if I remember correctly. It is very cute.
@@shroomyk yes, that's right! There are depictions of working women in the "cries of London" prints who are wearing just stays, shifts, and petticoats.
@@AmericanDuchess1 I was thinking the same thing.
Kirsten Paff those stays are probably more comfortable than most bras I wear.
I love this. And this actually looks like the first complete outfit that doesn't totally overwhelm me. Like maybe I could actually make those. Very cool, thank you.
You totally can! It's not nearly as complicated as it looks. ;-)
I will never get tired of seeing this gorgeous yellow gown! It's so beautiful!
thank you!
So that’s how the tapes in the skirt work. 😲 I’ve heard people mention them, but never seen how they’re actually done. Thanks so much!
yup! There are a couple ways to do them and they can be on the interior OR the exterior for different looks.
Same!
I can’t wait until I move out of my parents’ house so that I can start to live my dream of wearing clothes like this and making them myself! 😍
❤🎉
You look beautiful . How I wish this fashion would come back . Forgot to add the music was wonderful
Thank you! Well, in these crazy times anything goes - let's bring it back!
The clothes that people wear reflect the ideology of the people that wear them but also their rulers for this type of dress to come back there must a paradigm shift in society
Not true at all. نعيمة السنهاجي
@@user-wk2uf5yo7x ?hmm really
@@LaDivinaLover actually yes clothing is full of symbolism
I just love how forgiving stays, and this fashion in general, was to fluctuating weight! To have that nowadays would be so nice! Not to mention the back support from stays too!
absolutely spot on!
Wow, this gave me a much better understanding for its construction-- thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Yes really helpful
Me too!
Yes Girl Puff that bum up🙈😂💖
Floof!
Sewing goals. That's one of my favorite styles in all of fashion history.
thanks!
I know it's a decade earlier, but suddenly the banter between John and Abigail about "pins and saltpeter" in the musical 1776 takes on a whole new meaning.
yes!
"Neck handkerchief"
...that is confusing on so many levels.
yes, quite, lol! We usually just call them "kerchief," also a period accurate term and quite less of a mouthful.
@@AmericanDuchess1 I've heard of people calling them "neckerchiefs," but I don't know if that's historically accurate or not.
I watched another fashion channel that called it a fichu...French term for it I guess
@@hollymeredith9998 I’m French, and I googled « fichu » to see what it was, since I thought it was the thing that some elder women wear on their heads, but thanks to you I’ll stop misusing that word ^^.
I’m getting Jane from Tarzan vibes and I love it
I love that movie!
Was just about to comment that! Love it! 💚
This is a beautifully made video. What a treat. I love the dressing, the music...descriptions. Everything.
Thank you so much!
It was so nice to see how all of these pieces come together. I thought the big bum pillows would make the skirt stick out very oddly, but it didn't. It was the perfect size for the look. Also, I guess that women had much better posture then than we do now since the women had to use straight pins to keep the bodice closed. Bend over a little and 'ouch!' Thank you for doing this.
Good point! (lol) The posture was held back by the straps of the stays and the narrow backs of the gowns. The pins actually don't poke through to the body - the stay boning keeps that from happening, so long as you've got your pins in correctly. I've never been poked while wearing a gown with a pinned front.
This is actually the first time I've watched one of these videos and thought how incredibly uncomfortable the clothing looks--usually I think "oh, that's not so bad!" But two sets of lacings, one for the stays and one for the underbodice, and straight pins all up the front, all I can think is that I'd have no choice but to sit and stand very straight and carefully!
It looks absolutely lovely, and I love watching these videos! Thank you so much for sharing!
It's not as bad as it seems, promise! The stays are just like any corset - they're snug. But the lacing on the gown isn't tight at all. It's a 1780s thing but not strictly necessary. The pinning doesn't stick through to the body. I've never been stuck with a pin while wearing 18th c dress...the stays protect from that. :)
Rebecca tho was for rich ladies, a poor woman would have not wore this
@@thetillerwiller4696 An Englische or American poor woman would actually not have been that different. She would have also worn shift, stays, petticoat, gown, kerchief, cap, a bonnet or a hat and of course shoes and stockings. She would also have used lacing and pins or hooks and eyes to close her gown and stays. But instead of silk her dress would probably have been made out of wool, printed cotton or linen.
These kinds of videos are one my favorite things to watch. Absolutely fascinating! I would love to see more. I liked watching the skirt being lifted into a polonaise shape - I knew it existed, but never seen it done on video :)
More to come! 1770s is next :-)
I just finished all my underpinnings today! Cant wait to start on my gown!!
You got this!
Go for it girl!!!👊👍
Hey, how's the gown coming along?
I'm always just so delighted with the idea of an 18th century lady doing the little adjustment hops.
petticoat bounce!
Very interesting that you put the pins in, something I’ve never seen in films or dramas.
Hi Jenny - it's probably because pinning takes too long to depict in films, but it is indeed the most common way womens clothing was closed in the 18th century :-)
I love the little bum jingle dance at the end when you're finished with tying up the skirt . xxx
I do it every time , lol
The laced under-bodice of the robe is a really good idea.
yes, it makes a big difference!
I think I now see something as beautiful as Prioattire's videos. Great job. I have a great deal of respect for your love of history! I've been a costumer for years and years, but I do Viking and old Celt. It's fun to see something so elaborate. The pattern of the fabric on the stays is amazing. It made me think of piecing. I also make Lolita and Edwardian and do a lot of piecing.
thank you!
This brought up a couple of questions I otherwise wouldn't have had and answered some others!
1. When pinning the front of the gown closed over the underbodice (which is an ingenious idea!), would you be pinning the front of the gown TO the underbodice, or just the two sides of the gown to one another?
2. If a lady were wearing pockets with this ensemble, would it go over the underpetticoat and stays or under the petticoat? I couldn't help but think that if it goes over, it might affect the silhouette of the underpetticoat if you had a coin purse or small book in there. But that could be me over thinking it, haha.
Great questions! So the lacing in the 1780s took the pressure/pulling off the front edges of the gown so that the back would fit nice and snug. You pin the front edges of the gown to themselves and also into the stays. If it happens to catch the underbodice in there too, that's fine.
I actually forgot my pockets in this video (lol!), but I usually put them on over the underpetticoat, but under the top petticoat.
American Duchess I had similar questions about the pockets. If they go over the under petticoat, do you put them on before or after the false rump?
The pockets go over the stays, which actually help support the weight of whatever you put in your pockets. It's very uncomfortable to have the tie dig in your waist because of the weight of it.
Now I want one. Darn it, another thing to add to the sewing list.
the sewing list is ever-growing!
I know it's not the right time period but it makes me want to go watch all my Jane Austen movies
This gown would just about make it into Northranger Abbey or Sense and Sensibility, since they probably take place around 1794.
It's always a good time to watch all the Jane Austen movies. :-)
Just like nowadays when we see older people still stuck in the 70s or 80s, in Jane Austens time there were older folk still walking around in that kind of dress.
This gives me some historically accurate Hamilton vibes.
A certain And Peggy! would wear this!
When I move out of my home away from my parents and I have enough money,
This is the only way I agree to dress.
I’m liking these videos, they remind me of CrowseyeProductions (I think that’s the channel).
thank you, that is a huge compliment! I can only aspire to make such beautiful films some day
American Duchess calling it into existence! You ladies will definitely do it! 🥰🙌🏽 Keep up they awesome work.
Watching this I got all nostalgic for that magical garage shoot you did with the snowy trees years ago. You've always made things look utterly stunning, and the new studio space is a wonderful backdrop for your dress-ups. This was a joy to watch. 💛
Thank you so much!
Retrousée really is such a good look for 18th century gowns
It's my particular favorite!
Absolutely lovely! Love the blue accents!
Thanks so much! 😊
I love it, the gown looks so pretty especially with the back floofed out..you look stunning. Thank you so much for sharing...
It was years before I found out that in the 18th Century the garments were in two halves and not an actual dress like we would wear today!
The pins look a nightmare, but handy if your weight fluctuates during pregnancy etc or you're just having a day when you feel bloated & yuck, like we girls do from time to time.
The gown is a good shape for a more positive body image I'd think as your 'wobbly bits' don't show, if you have any...it could hide a multitude of sins 😄 💖🌹
thanks! I promise the pins aren't as bad as everyone thinks ;-). And you're so right - it's nice to have the adjustability, and nothing's "wobbly" with stays on :-)
Lovely video! Makes me even more interested in trying 1780s!
you should!
Splendid! Love the colour. I would've thought that constant pinning would damage the fabric after even only. a few wears. Do you find evidence of this?
Yes, actually! There are pin holes and evidence of pinning on many, many, many extant gowns.
I love watching historical dressing videos. It takes me out of the modernity and fashions I don’t like and into the time I wish I was in. I hate trying to stuff myself into clothes that never fit right and suffering all day until I go to bed and do it all over again. Thank you for making this escape.
I feel the same way about clothes not fitting right
It’s really interesting looking at the differences between rococo and Georgian fashion. Rococo was very pastel and Georgian was very beige and gold but sometimes both broke the mould ❤️
Beautiful! Do you have a pattern with Simplicity for the gown or is this from your book? I'm currently working on your stays patter 8579. The eyelets aren't very pretty but they are hand sewn!
This one is from the book - The Italian Gown - although I did the front a little differently.
Thank you. I will check out the book!
That was lovely! ( I liked your hair even more with the cap on because it hid those buckles 😂 ) You are a beautiful young lady no matter what century you dress for, ✌
Thank you so much!!
OMG! She got it all on, and suddenly transformed. Amazing.
Certainly my favorite part - all of it coming together ;-)
The fabric is so beautiful, it makes me think of water from a stream for some reason, the pleating, how it flows, and not sure if it's the lighting but it has the illusion of a glisten one can only achieve if the item is wet. It's beautiful.
that's a lovely simile! You might be seeing the two different colors in the taffeta that make it look that way - "shot" taffeta, with the warp in a bright light yellow and the weft in a peachy color.
Beautiful outfit. Love this time period!
Thank you! 😊
I appreciate that the corset is named stays, like the stays in the standing rigging of a ship, which support and put tension on the masts. I guess this was a standard term for support. Excellent video, great for research.
that's right! thank you
please do more of these
more on the way!
Wow. I could happily live in this style of gown. It’s so very pretty and elegant. I just don’t know if I could manage that hairstyle every day. A nice updo maybe, but probably not this particular hairstyle.
Ah, the secret is that 90% of my hair in this video is extensions or hair pieces already styled ;-)
American Duchess but the beauty of this is that I can wear my hair however I want, it doesn’t all have to be 100% historically accurate. Which is what I love about history bounding in fashion. Everyone has their own unique ways of doing it.
So much thought put into the construction of this 💖🐸
thanks!
I’m so happy to find another historical dressing video!!
the more the merrier :-)
These are the women who make any beautiful dress more beautiful after wearing it with their charm.
I LOVE the way tied up skirts look!! I’m a little confused about how it all works though
It's one of my favorite ways to wear the skirts!
You look amazing! I was wondering about pockets as well
Thanks! Forgot them, haha, but I remember for the next video coming soon :-)
So cute and pretty! I adore 18th century dress :)
Thank you!! 😊
I love that you could gain or lose a goodly bit of weight and still be able to wear the same outfit you spent time and money sewing together. I'd probably switch to modern full length stockings or slip shorts instead but I like the look and the function!
it is pretty handy indeed!
I started the video thinking "oh that looks pretty cool. Yeah very pretty" and then by the end I was like "Oh! she looks wonderful! Positively marvelous!" in a british accent hahahaha
thank you so much!
The color of the fabric -- so sumptuous! I'm also dying to know the artist of the background music. Also sumptuous!
thanks! The music pieces are all from Epidemic Sound
Wow it is taking so long time to take on but so amazing style ❤❤❤
I love those two bows on the lower back. I wanna hold that part while dancing.
thank you!
The colors are very Jane from Disney’s Tarzan and that is amazing.
I do love love love that film
I’ve always wanted to dress like this if just for a day 😍
you should! it feels amazing.
I really don’t have time to hand make all this stuff :( I love sewing but I’ve taken up embroidery because it’s so easy to pick up and put down. Anywhere I could get a full ensemble like yours already made?
Impressive. I've only seen videos where women were dressed by others. I wondered how women could dress themselves.
Not too hard so long as things close in the front :-)
If there was concern for "stress" on the dress, "stress" on the gown, or "stress" on the back of the fabric it would seem to me that poking and 'stabbing' the fabric daily would (over time) tear the fabric. Love the 2-tone shoes. Reminds me of a pair of oxfords I had to wear in parochial school.
Beautiful gown, though. Not usually a fan of yellow / mustard yellow / gold for a dress color. However, this shade I DO like. Very nicely made dress.
There are many, many extant gowns that have evidence of pin holes down the front edges. The pins don't usually tear the fabric but they do scar it. One way to take the pressure or stress off the front edges of the gown is with the lacing underbodice like I show in the video - it pulls the back tight from the side seams.
@@AmericanDuchess1 Ah....interesting. I never knew this.
😉Cute hair. And great quality as always!👍
Thank you!! 😊
The scarf... was known as a Tucker, wasn't it? You demonstrated where the term comes from.
Lovely!
The scarf was called a neck handkerchief or kerchief and could be worn in lieu of or in addition to the tucker, which is a bit of lace or ribbon gathered or pleated into the neckline of the gown bodice.
I really enjoyed it. Thank you. I just wish that the end was a bit longer, we could see entire sillouete and you turned around 2-3 times so we can enjoy it longer :)
Next time!
@@AmericanDuchess1 Sounds great! Thank you!
You just laid out my to-do list for my current project, yay!
excellent!
Perfect👏🏻 !!
But I am thinking 🤔 about the tight of the top of the DRESS...
on not to unsew/to rip apart, wow~😲!!
It is amazing, how all the materials as: the textile,🧵 thread are so good.
(it's not made in China, for sure)!🙏
Thank you💐 for share!
thanks!
Beautiful gown and I love the bow accents and inner lacing in the gown itself--I'm going to have to try that! I thought a Robe a la Anglaise had a back seam all in one, as in your book. I guess I'm just confused--is that term synonymous with Italian gown now?
Hi Carrie - good catch! "Robe a l'Anglaise" is the French term that was applied to both the English gown and the Italian gown, in France, in the 1770s and 80s. Both dresses are "Robes a l'Anglaise," and they only overlap each other by a few years. In England, the English gown was called a mantua, nightgown, or just a gown. When the Italian gown comes into fashion, with the waist seam and no back pleats, it is also called a night gown or just a gown, but in some publications it was called an Italian gown, presumably to distinguish it. It's very confusing!
Just beautiful. You look just perfect....well done
Thank you so much!
Wonderful 👏 👏. I love the colors.
thank you
Beautiful and interesting but I have a hard enough time getting jeans on I can't imagine
I also have a hard time getting jeans on, lol - I actually find the historic clothing more comfortable than modern clothing sometimes. It's restrictive through the abdomen, but distributes the weight and tightness of the clothing so that it doesn't cut in at the waist, which modern elastic waistlines or tight jeans tend to do.
Very relaxing to watch - Thank You!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I need to learn to spiral lace my corsets
stunning!
I keep having an unrealistic wish that these gowns with all their accessories will come back in style. lol
Is the under petticoat always under the stays and bum pad? It just seemed natural for me to put the petticoat over those
Great questions! Underpetticoats are depicted worn under the stays in a lot of primary source images, but it's not an "always" thing.
You look like first First Lady *Martha* *Washington* it sent chills down my spine.
素敵なファッションですね✨
着方、とても勉強になります！
Everyone in the 18th century:-getting dressed in only 5 minutes-
Me: -Taking 2 hours just to wear a hoodie and some pants-
I love how they don’t show off and project women’s body’s like every other vid on TH-cam
I mean, I start in basically my underwear, so... (lol)
so lovely
Beautiful!
Thank you!
Very pretty 🥰❤️ ( these type of dresses is call : a - lady - is - never - late - everyone - else - is - just - early - dresses ) back then this was normal that it took so much time to get dressed . But this time area that we are in right now it’s all about “ getting dressed as fast as can be . And not in a lot of layers “ . Maybe that is the reason why I love the dresses from back then . All poefy and amazingly beautiful . ( and I love taking my time to get dressed and get ready ) 🤪 “ social distance greetings “ from the Netherlands 🇳🇱 ( Anne) Miekje
I love that! thanks
How did the Buclé change? Are they there but filled with some ratted hair as mentioned in the Hair video? Periwinkle blue, or maybe lilac knots are so good with the yellow.
I have some low-key buckles in this hairstyle. They're still there, but not as many
The first ones were kind of distracting, heh
Hi ! I’m quite young and interested in fashion history, and wanted to make a 1780 gown just like that. Would you have resources for me to read ? Also, what hairstyle is accurate for une robe à l’anglaise ? Thank you so much, ps the gown is really pretty !
Hi! Yes, I have a great booklist here: blog.americanduchess.com/p/bookshelf.html
For step-by-step making, I recommend the AD Dressmaking Guide: www.americanduchess.com/collections/books-and-patterns/products/american-duchess-guide
And for all you ever wanted to know about 18th century hairstyles and how to do them, the AD Beauty book: www.americanduchess.com/collections/books-and-patterns/products/american-duchess-guide-to-beauty
@@AmericanDuchess1 Thank you so much !
Awesome video is that is a gorgeous dress. After my current daily wear project is complete that is definitely next on the list! The voile detail on the sleeves is amazing, did you pull that detail from a particular source? The voile and blue details are the perfect level of decoration:)
Thank you! I looked at lots of 1780s fashion plates for the trimming ideas and noticed that contrasting white ruffles and puffy sleeve trim was popular.
Great job
thanks!
Bello, armonioso, recatado, femenino, para pensar porqué se perdió él encanto de la feminidad y los valores de la pureza.
gracias
Beautiful dress. I wish you guys could take commissions. I don't think I would ever be able to sew that.
I believe in you
Lovely. Just lively! That is all...
Thank you so much!
wayyy cuter then the polish robe dress I did not like that style. the English dress is so pretty 😍
it's very flattering, indeed ;-)
waooooo waoooo Awesome, me l am very lover and very passionate by the changing rooms l love these beautiful changing rooms l like it much
Thank you so much 😊
May I ask how far off the ground your petticoat hangs? I know itll be different for different proportions and preferences but I'm so indecisive and love where it sits in the video! 😅❤
I like my walking length skirts between ankle bone and bottom of calf muscle.
@@AmericanDuchess1 just enough to show off those pretty little shoes!
I loved this video!
thanks!
Normally not a yellow person but I am smitting with that fabric
thanks!
This outfit is so smart and elegant!
The only thing that gives me doubt is the color of the bows which looks strange on the mustard-yellow background. Maybe someone could explain if it was a common practice to combine such colors.
Если посмотреть много старинных портретов и картинок из модных журналов, то становится ясно, что понятия о сочетании цветов заметно отличались от современных :)
yes, there are several portraits that show blue bows contrasting with yellow gowns. It was a common choice.
I just imagine how how this would be in the heat of a Carolina August.
Even if this is made of breathable linen, there are so many layers. I can’t even imagine how people didn’t collapse of heat exhaustion.
They certainly were wearing linen in Carolina - silk is very hot! There are actually unlined cotton gowns that survive, too.
Very pretty, would it be a zone front because of the two lines in the front of the gown.
Yes, it's a zone front, although the two lines of stitching there is actually piecing - it should be just one line of stitching, lol
This is so gorgeous! I'm working on one of these dresses from your book right now! If only I could figure out what you use on the stays to hold down those shoulder tapes :0
do you mean on the front where I secure the tapes/straps? They're large hooks.
If you watch their Q&A on 18th cent stays there's a part where they talk specifically about the tapes, the hooks and how it all attaches together.
Not personally into mustard yellow but it’s an amazing dress!
Yellow isn't everyone's cup of tea, for sure, but I love it!
American Duchess Id take it in blue lol!
Thank you! It’s great!