What I like about this video is that you go into such details in order to be more efficient. All those little movements that you mention would take some of us probably years to figure out for ourselves. You're an excellent teacher! Keep it up.
Man's fingers are made of dollar bills. It's always a pleasure to watch efficient tradesman doing their thing. Thanks for the knowledge. It's going to make a difference when I'm doing bar on my CMU jobs. Thinking of the quadrants really helps iron out what's going on.
Dude, you are super helpful, and explain things in a way that is clear and easy to understand. Became part of Local 397 , Dirty Hands but Clean Money!!!! Gotta love it!!
Dude, I'm with a concrete company and we usually tie our own bar rather than hiring out. We typically use saddle ties or figured 8s for wall bar. I learned how to snap tie more efficiently from this video but I'd love to learn how to do saddles more efficiently.
An efficent saddle is done by entering quad 3 (using the video quadrant system and rebar layout) to quad 4 with the hook, then grab the wire and feed enough wire to complete the tie (it will take a little practice to be able to eyeball the correct length more is always better here), then snap to snug and stab into quad 1, then release the wire and regrab with pliers from quad 2, pull the wire and snap to snug and complete the tie with the same technique as the snap tie shown in the video. This appies if you are righthanded BTW, if you are lefthanded it would be 4 to 3 then 2 to 1 and tie, hope that helps. As with all rebar tieing techniques you want to start slow get the technique right and then the speed will come.
In the uk we use knipex, I’ve worked with a few Americans that use pliers and them and we noticed pliers ties are much looser and not as strong. They conversed to knipex
Interesting in Ireland we use Knipex End cutters almost exclusively for tying rebar. Same for the UK I'm a formwork carpenter by trade and often got my arms torn up by sharp ties when closing up wall forms.
Respect bro getting my older brother in this trade and I don’t have the time to show him before he starts so I told him to study this only thing I don’t do is I bend my wire after or pre tying like you I just use my hand between thumb and index other than that I recommend this if you plan to be a rodbuster
Can you do a video with PVC pipe and those pvc Chair stands that get buried. Also attaching b-line strut to b-line to ridged conduit. I'm doing deck work and only have ty wire stones but no holders
I am an Ironworker what use for my tools like my dykes and crescent is carbon rod from the welders. It lubricates the tools without running the risk of getting them all dusty. Oil attracts dirt and dust.
Hey bro, this is really helpful even for me as a plumber since I have to tie my water lines. Deserved a like and subscribe! I just got a question, I’ve seen rod busters tie with pliers but also nippers. What do you think is best? Or can you also make a video by tying with nippers. Thanks!
Brother my back hurts so bad after today they had me tying matts weaving through all 4 quadrants. Not a steel worker but I tied about 600-800 ties like that today in about 5-6 hours 😅
Son, Back in the day when I did a lot of form work, we used what we called "potato ties"... Which were actually used in the potato fields to tie the heavy bags. The rolls were made of approximately 4 inch wire with looped ends. You used a hooked twister tool that was incredibly efficient and far superior to the pliers method...Simple bend the wire around the two bars, hook the loops and pull. These must still be available today...
A jiw I worked with had me bending nails in my down time to make my hands stronger and last longer when I tie. We don’t have any rod work at my local so I basically only work structural and rigging but I still walk around bending nails lol.
@@polishman4168 iw135 Galveston. Our main contractors are all crane rental companies and erection companies. Rats took most of our rod work long before I got in, and 847 has what what’s left of the rod work.
Thanks for the video. I ordered and received two pair of Klein Tools D201-7CSTA from Amazon and the cutter smashes the wire and then I have to twist it for separation instead of making a clean cut. Is this what should be expected or are they defective?
Just a little tip , before you skip your wire to make the hook , heel it that way you’re not wasting a move and you only have to twist the wire once , unless you’re tying template shouldn’t need another twist
Not a bad video at all, the technique is pretty dead on for the most part good job, now go grab me the rebar stretcher and a box of endo's out of the truck rod buster ;-)
One of those pairs of Linesman pliers are electrical pliers...That is why the jaw teeth are more fine then the Ironworker's Pliers with the more aggressive jaw and the curved handle...
If you had to carry only one pair of pliers Wich one would you ? I'm a concrete forms carpenter and I have been asked to carry a pair ! If you could give me a model number.. Thank you!
Klein 9's D2000.. you can drive double head 16's with 9's, break dobies, do all kinds of shit....plus, you're a carpenter, speed isn't your main concern.
They didn't teach you how to heal your wire on your first twist with your pliers? That second twist is unnecessary if youd heal on the first one....just sayin...if you work on a column crew and double twist you're gonna get your ass smoked, plus you make half as many motions with your wrist, carpal tunnels a bitch son.
Roddiener is right. I’m a multi craft civil worker in Houston Texas. When I’m working as a form carpenter I use my number 9 Klein pliers. They r heavy duty n u r likely to never miss n have more Accuracy when grabbing the tie wire. Number 7 Klein pliers r for more experienced Rodbusters. When I’m tying rebar I carry both sets of Klein pliers but you only really need one plier. It’s really your preference. Every person is different I have a lot of friends that tie with number 7 only n friends that only tie with number 9s but for carpentry work number 9s is better
Bahco 1519D is the one and only tool for this. yes its not a plyier, and thats becourse plyers CANT hold the wire as this tool does, the plyer slips alittle when you drag the wire after tightening it abit, and then tightening abit more to make sure that the binding and iron feels firm. good way to check if your binding is tight enough, hit the rebar with the tool, 1 cm away, if it rattles, its loose, too loose. and no, making a correct tight binding, take no more time than binding a fast incorrect one. Btw, the super cutter can also be used efficiently, but is abit more harsh on your wrists throu out the many years of craftsmanship :)
Springs Slow you down. No matter the work. I trimmed marijuana for years. Everyone starts out with the spring loaded Fiskars. But after some time everyone moves over to the springless Chickamasas scissors. I will disagree with his use of a wet lubricant. I have always found that dry metal lubes work better if contamination is not an issue. Overall an excellent video. Much appreciation for all of the details.
Max Twintier Rebar Tier made all this obsolete for the most part, it is always good to know these skills, but mechanical devices will make this kind of work less back-straining and breaking and save a lot of time.
Bro You cheated them rods are welded haha, yo I'm building 4 extra footings for my added post n beams in my basement , I have a few questions.. MUST I remove all rust and corrosion on rebar before I pour or does it not matter, pour with rusty rebar? And do I need the rebar under tension? I'm building a Cage for my 15 inch sonotube.
Rusted rebar can expand 4x its original size. This in turn can lead to more cracking, spalling & deterioration of the concrete. This is especially true in salty environments. Some say a little rust can even help with adhesion. All agree that Too much rust is always a problem down the road. Absolutely no rust is universally the best practice. Unfortunately, it isn't always possible. Therefore, if you can clean it all off you are better off. Tis my opinion.
Honestly guys don’t take the spring out. It’s not good for you’re hands to keep manually opening and closing them like that especially if you have to tie hella rebar. Trust me. Unless you want severe arthritis and hand cramps then by all means go for it.
"even when your foremost bar is perpendicular to your eyes" just say when the vertical is in front. I feel you over explain a bit. I'm a JIW and had to make sense of what you said I couldnt imagine a punk trying to comprehend it.
Man all these guys on here talking about loving rod-busting? Obviously they haven't been doing too long! Cause anyone's thats done it for awhile starts hating their job by year 5 I think? Unless their certifiably crazy! Then I think it's around 10 years that the love is lost and replaced resentment for whomever talked you into becoming a rod buster! I'll admit the first few years is kinda fun everyone's racing each other to see who's fastest tying running around beating their chests like a bunch of crazed gorillas trying to carry the more steel then next guy, but then all that He-Man shit starts catching up with you and after 25-30 years when you can't stand up straight anymore and some pain management doctor has you addicted to pain killers for the rest of your life, Well that's about when you start thinking "Damn I wish I would've stayed in school or Hell? Even finishing Concrete's better this this! And it pays more too damn it!" Oh but hey how 'bout these new? Or somewhat new rebar tying guns? Anyone use them and are they worth the crazy amounts of money they want for a brand name ones, or do the cheapy's do a comparable job? And do you need clearance around the steel? Like does the mat have to be up on dobies already cause that would kinda make it suck id think, or could they tie a mat thats resting on your subgrade? I mean on these decks with double mats 12" o/c I'm sure they work great but for someone's that mostly doing slab on grade is worth the hefty price tag? Any info. Would be greatly appreciated!
This is definitely a young man’s game in rebar. I started out hating it but grew to love it, still don’t like it tho. As for tie guns they’re good for certain situations like doing lines of mats for hours. All in all pliers are more flexible so every rod buster should be a proficient at tying. Every rodbuster should have an exit plan from the field. You body will force you to exit, with that said I have met quite a few old timers who have been in the field 30+ years.
Hi, Christopher I wanted to send you a DM but youtube doesn't allow. Have you thought about selling the actual goods plus the side hustle of making videos. We make the wire and want to find more people to work with in the States. Please let me know if you are interested or just ignore this self-promoting garbage comment.
@@hardlabormedia1449 tying is really a small portion of the job. By ten years you have completed your apprenticeship, worked under a good foreman and run your own job. so yeah 10 years....
What I like about this video is that you go into such details in order to be more efficient. All those little movements that you mention would take some of us probably years to figure out for ourselves. You're an excellent teacher! Keep it up.
As an EE, This was a very inofrmative video. I didnt know Iron work had this level of complexity, Bravo
Man's fingers are made of dollar bills. It's always a pleasure to watch efficient tradesman doing their thing.
Thanks for the knowledge. It's going to make a difference when I'm doing bar on my CMU jobs. Thinking of the quadrants really helps iron out what's going on.
Dude, you are super helpful, and explain things in a way that is clear and easy to understand. Became part of Local 397 , Dirty Hands but Clean Money!!!! Gotta love it!!
Thanks! Glad to hear it brotha, this career will pay you well and legal, we just gotta work for it 💪🏽
Excellent
I'm a sparky but I like watching videos about ironworkers. Cheers
I'm a sparky apprentice doing slab work, and I appreciate this tutorial so much.
Don't stop making videos. I cant wait to see what's next.
A master in motion. Beautiful, brother.
This and the last few videos on rebar work is great content. Thanks.
Dude, I'm with a concrete company and we usually tie our own bar rather than hiring out. We typically use saddle ties or figured 8s for wall bar. I learned how to snap tie more efficiently from this video but I'd love to learn how to do saddles more efficiently.
An efficent saddle is done by entering quad 3 (using the video quadrant system and rebar layout) to quad 4 with the hook, then grab the wire and feed enough wire to complete the tie (it will take a little practice to be able to eyeball the correct length more is always better here), then snap to snug and stab into quad 1, then release the wire and regrab with pliers from quad 2, pull the wire and snap to snug and complete the tie with the same technique as the snap tie shown in the video. This appies if you are righthanded BTW, if you are lefthanded it would be 4 to 3 then 2 to 1 and tie, hope that helps. As with all rebar tieing techniques you want to start slow get the technique right and then the speed will come.
im an apprentice electrician doing deck work. This helps me. Thanks
What is a keel? Pulling down while twisting? Thanks for the helpful video
In the uk we use knipex, I’ve worked with a few Americans that use pliers and them and we noticed pliers ties are much looser and not as strong. They conversed to knipex
You one proud steel men haha salute too ya from Ontario local 183
zach you tie here in ontario what part of ontario are you in how long u ben busting rods
?
Interesting in Ireland we use Knipex End cutters almost exclusively for tying rebar.
Same for the UK
I'm a formwork carpenter by trade and often got my arms torn up by sharp ties when closing up wall forms.
This awesome bro. I wish more people were into rebar. This was my first trade in construction. Love rod busting.
Respect bro getting my older brother in this trade and I don’t have the time to show him before he starts so I told him to study this only thing I don’t do is I bend my wire after or pre tying like you I just use my hand between thumb and index other than that I recommend this if you plan to be a rodbuster
Thankyou very much for the refresher course. Very well detailed !!
thank you for taking the time to make these videos. As i hope to get into the Ironworkers Union these videos are very helpful!
The quadrant part is on point.
Great video man! Keep it up! Someone finally explained it in details what happend between step1 and step9 🤣🤣😁
Sent this to my nephew and his homies
Thanks man pray for me when I start .
I plan to start soon.. havent called to apply yet tho.. do you have any advice?
@@Wbuc562 get your tickets first man .
@wickedbuc7474 Advice? Ya, shut the *uck up, pay attention, do what you're told, and lastly HURRY THE *UCK UP! 😂 HAHA! Have fun ladies!
I love the video man! keep it up! You have a knack for teaching!
Great vid. Just tried to wing it today on jobsite. Did not go over well.
Can you do a video with PVC pipe and those pvc Chair stands that get buried. Also attaching b-line strut to b-line to ridged conduit. I'm doing deck work and only have ty wire stones but no holders
God I can't tell you how many times I've smacked myself in the nuts when tying haha
I’m trying to figure out how to make a structure like that at home so I can practice. Any tips would be amazing ❤️🔥💯
I am an Ironworker what use for my tools like my dykes and crescent is carbon rod from the welders. It lubricates the tools without running the risk of getting them all dusty. Oil attracts dirt and dust.
Hey bro, this is really helpful even for me as a plumber since I have to tie my water lines. Deserved a like and subscribe!
I just got a question, I’ve seen rod busters tie with pliers but also nippers. What do you think is best? Or can you also make a video by tying with nippers.
Thanks!
Looking forward to the next thing maybe PT decks how to tie a good head. I always review these keep 'em coming
Actually tying heads is easy
Great video dude 👍
Great video. I feel like a pro now
Great video! Thanks for taking the time a breaking everything down in such good detail
Yo we need more content, show me more tie types.
Brother my back hurts so bad after today they had me tying matts weaving through all 4 quadrants. Not a steel worker but I tied about 600-800 ties like that today in about 5-6 hours 😅
This is such a great video! Excellent explanation and demonstration. Thanks man
This is a well made vid. Great tutorial.
thank you for explaining the hand movements, I always wondered about that left hand twist at the end (step 4?) #curioussparky
Back in the day, i use to do this.. was fun an a lot of hours an tiring
Great video ! Lots of good information now ima make the same rack and practice 😏
Hi bro I really enjoy watching your video but I was wondering where can I get the suspender like yours ? or where I can buy.
Omg thank you it was helpful also pretty funny lol
Great video and very informative. Can you do a tutorial on how to do figure 8 and saddle ties?
That's how I was taught. 50% saddle/basket/8 or 100% loop or 75% double loop. I always went the 50% route
I had this job! was hard even with the zipper because it wasnt all done correctly
I was sceptical of this video until.... He said take the spring out. He knows what hes talking about. (10 years in the rod patch L 392)
Thanks for posting this good video !🙏🏼
Great vid homie
Damn bro I bet u work around a lot of them barilleros matados huh them old style Mexican rod busters 😅 great helpful video bro 👊💯🙏
You already know big dawg 💪🏽
Nice, we have glassfiber reinforced rebars and production line for sale 🥳
Son, Back in the day when I did a lot of form work, we used what we called "potato ties"...
Which were actually used in the potato fields to tie the heavy bags. The rolls were made
of approximately 4 inch wire with looped ends. You used a hooked twister tool that was
incredibly efficient and far superior to the pliers method...Simple bend the wire around
the two bars, hook the loops and pull. These must still be available today...
Uphill both ways!
Always wear a good full aye protection!
Awesome mate
Yeeeeeee I was with you on ur first day at the chase center that’s crazy good shit my guy #378
Great video thank you for your help
What’s a “keel”? And how and when do you do it. Thanks
A jiw I worked with had me bending nails in my down time to make my hands stronger and last longer when I tie. We don’t have any rod work at my local so I basically only work structural and rigging but I still walk around bending nails lol.
😂😂😂 where the hell is this at
@@polishman4168 iw135 Galveston. Our main contractors are all crane rental companies and erection companies. Rats took most of our rod work long before I got in, and 847 has what what’s left of the rod work.
Does it needs big physical strength to be a rebar worker ?
@@mohammedyoussefnour5855 it definitely does. Especially in your hands. But it takes your whole body.
@@calebcoleman9569 thanks a lot for your feedback sir, appreciate it 🙏🏼
Epic traps, bro
Thanks for the video. I ordered and received two pair of Klein Tools D201-7CSTA from Amazon and the cutter smashes the wire and then I have to twist it for separation instead of making a clean cut. Is this what should be expected or are they defective?
Why use cutters to snip? Just twist your wire and cut with the blade on your pliers. The cutters should be able to make clean cuts
Just a little tip , before you skip your wire to make the hook , heel it that way you’re not wasting a move and you only have to twist the wire once , unless you’re tying template shouldn’t need another twist
What is heel it mean?
@@RoseBrosHTX you pry the snap tie to tighten it before you cut it , that way it tightens the loose wire so the bars won’t move
@@polishman4168 y don’t u just say pry then? Lol 😂
Because your actually heeling the wire with your pliers , not really prying ...
It’s a ironworker term I guess 🤷♂️
Videos do you connecting and welding?
Not a bad video at all, the technique is pretty dead on for the most part good job, now go grab me the rebar stretcher and a box of endo's out of the truck rod buster ;-)
One of those pairs of Linesman pliers are electrical pliers...That is why the jaw teeth are more fine then the Ironworker's Pliers with the more aggressive jaw and the curved handle...
Another reason to not cut tails while tying in vertical mats is because I have to clean that shit out of the bottom of my wall before I form 😅
Where do you buy the Milkers from????
Amazon. Or dairy farmer
First day of rebar today
How your shoulders feeling?
@@hardlabormedia1449 just did some cages but slabs for the next month, video helped a shit ton, was able to impress some a couple guys
Let's goooo
Where can I get a harness like that send link
Ironworker for 10 years here.
Nines>sevens IMO
Index>pinky
I trash the spring but I know badass rodbusters that don’t.
Good job bro helpful I’ve tried to much but haven’t done that cut/create next hook trick before. Fuck yeah man I love it.
I use my ring finger on my right😂that’s my spring
If you had to carry only one pair of pliers Wich one would you ?
I'm a concrete forms carpenter and I have been asked to carry a pair !
If you could give me a model number..
Thank you!
Definitely the speed(7s) you might even want to keep the spring just case your won’t be tying so much
Klein 9's D2000.. you can drive double head 16's with 9's, break dobies, do all kinds of shit....plus, you're a carpenter, speed isn't your main concern.
They didn't teach you how to heal your wire on your first twist with your pliers? That second twist is unnecessary if youd heal on the first one....just sayin...if you work on a column crew and double twist you're gonna get your ass smoked, plus you make half as many motions with your wrist, carpal tunnels a bitch son.
Roddiener is right. I’m a multi craft civil worker in Houston Texas. When I’m working as a form carpenter I use my number 9 Klein pliers. They r heavy duty n u r likely to never miss n have more Accuracy when grabbing the tie wire. Number 7 Klein pliers r for more experienced Rodbusters.
When I’m tying rebar I carry both sets of Klein pliers but you only really need one plier. It’s really your preference. Every person is different I have a lot of friends that tie with number 7 only n friends that only tie with number 9s but for carpentry work number 9s is better
Bahco 1519D is the one and only tool for this. yes its not a plyier, and thats becourse plyers CANT hold the wire as this tool does, the plyer slips alittle when you drag the wire after tightening it abit, and then tightening abit more to make sure that the binding and iron feels firm. good way to check if your binding is tight enough, hit the rebar with the tool, 1 cm away, if it rattles, its loose, too loose. and no, making a correct tight binding, take no more time than binding a fast incorrect one.
Btw, the super cutter can also be used efficiently, but is abit more harsh on your wrists throu out the many years of craftsmanship :)
Springs Slow you down. No matter the work. I trimmed marijuana for years. Everyone starts out with the spring loaded Fiskars. But after some time everyone moves over to the springless Chickamasas scissors. I will disagree with his use of a wet lubricant. I have always found that dry metal lubes work better if contamination is not an issue. Overall an excellent video. Much appreciation for all of the details.
Max Twintier Rebar Tier made all this obsolete for the most part, it is always good to know these skills, but mechanical devices will make this kind of work less back-straining and breaking and save a lot of time.
Bro You cheated them rods are welded haha, yo I'm building 4 extra footings for my added post n beams in my basement , I have a few questions..
MUST I remove all rust and corrosion on rebar before I pour or does it not matter, pour with rusty rebar?
And do I need the rebar under tension? I'm building a Cage for my 15 inch sonotube.
Rusted rebar can expand 4x its original size. This in turn can lead to more cracking, spalling & deterioration of the concrete. This is especially true in salty environments. Some say a little rust can even help with adhesion. All agree that Too much rust is always a problem down the road. Absolutely no rust is universally the best practice. Unfortunately, it isn't always possible. Therefore, if you can clean it all off you are better off. Tis my opinion.
Bro are you a juggler?! I haven’t met another Ironworker that juggles
The best video on TH-cam the rest should be deleted
Honestly guys don’t take the spring out. It’s not good for you’re hands to keep manually opening and closing them like that especially if you have to tie hella rebar. Trust me. Unless you want severe arthritis and hand cramps then by all means go for it.
They look like electric Klein pliers
Show us how fast you can tie
You got your hard hat on backwards
You think his dumb or what? He did that on purpose to look ghetto 🤠
17min,no way
How the hell is this clip 17 minutes long? it's literally the simplest knot in the world?
The best lube for your pliers and dykes will be form oil. Find a concrete guy and ask him to give you a couple drops
"even when your foremost bar is perpendicular to your eyes" just say when the vertical is in front. I feel you over explain a bit. I'm a JIW and had to make sense of what you said I couldnt imagine a punk trying to comprehend it.
I'm taking my apprenticeship entrance exam I fucking hate math.
Was it hard?
jfc 8 minutes to blather your way thru a 15 second demonstration
You high as hell huh
Safety glasses please..
Ok mom!!!!
Man all these guys on here talking about loving rod-busting? Obviously they haven't been doing too long! Cause anyone's thats done it for awhile starts hating their job by year 5 I think? Unless their certifiably crazy! Then I think it's around 10 years that the love is lost and replaced resentment for whomever talked you into becoming a rod buster! I'll admit the first few years is kinda fun everyone's racing each other to see who's fastest tying running around beating their chests like a bunch of crazed gorillas trying to carry the more steel then next guy, but then all that He-Man shit starts catching up with you and after 25-30 years when you can't stand up straight anymore and some pain management doctor has you addicted to pain killers for the rest of your life, Well that's about when you start thinking "Damn I wish I would've stayed in school or Hell? Even finishing Concrete's better this this! And it pays more too damn it!" Oh but hey how 'bout these new? Or somewhat new rebar tying guns? Anyone use them and are they worth the crazy amounts of money they want for a brand name ones, or do the cheapy's do a comparable job? And do you need clearance around the steel? Like does the mat have to be up on dobies already cause that would kinda make it suck id think, or could they tie a mat thats
resting on your subgrade? I mean on these decks with double mats 12" o/c I'm sure they work great but for someone's that mostly doing slab on grade is worth the hefty price tag? Any info. Would be greatly appreciated!
This is definitely a young man’s game in rebar. I started out hating it but grew to love it, still don’t like it tho.
As for tie guns they’re good for certain situations like doing lines of mats for hours. All in all pliers are more flexible so every rod buster should be a proficient at tying.
Every rodbuster should have an exit plan from the field. You body will force you to exit, with that said I have met quite a few old timers who have been in the field 30+ years.
Use 711 instead of wd40.. rookie mistake.
this job destroyed my wrists
Take one red sleeve off your tie tool. U don't need it.
Hi, Christopher I wanted to send you a DM but youtube doesn't allow. Have you thought about selling the actual goods plus the side hustle of making videos. We make the wire and want to find more people to work with in the States. Please let me know if you are interested or just ignore this self-promoting garbage comment.
do u chip to canada?\
@@brentfleury7184 yes we do. We got a guy in Canada who resells this too
you don't have to show your I.Q.
man, you talk way way toooo much for a very simple thing.
Bro get a good editor.
Horrible effort To understanding
Kid, you need more time in Iron before you can teach!! Master the trade get at least 10 year's in the Union. practice practice practice
Took you 10 years to learn to tie bar
*noted
@@hardlabormedia1449 tying is really a small portion of the job. By ten years you have completed your apprenticeship, worked under a good foreman and run your own job. so yeah 10 years....
@@hardlabormedia1449 also took you ten minutes to explain a single snap.... wtf are you you going on about quadrons and shit lmfao,
@@HeadingNorth04 you're making him look like a rebar nerd 🤓 🤔
Weak