I have a number of your books. They are excellent . Passing on your knowledge ro future generations is much appreciated ! I have a better understanding of my tools thanks to your guidance.
Great information as usual. I'm so glad Rex Kreuger pointed his viewers over to you. I do have to comment on that absolutely beautiful brass and wood marking gauge sitting on your bench. I'm sure I wouldn't be the only one to appreciate you taking a moment in a future video to give us all a closer look.
After watching this I just ordered two carpenter mortise chisels an 8mm and a 14mm. I need to cut a few good mortises for my bench build. Thanks for the lesson.
@@gjbmunc Your welcome sir. I have just completed chopping 4 mortises that are 1.25”x5”x2” depth and they came out square and snug. These are for the short and long stretches connecting to the legs of my work bench build. I really enjoyed that. Now, on to the through mortises for the legs wedged tenons to connect to the bench top.
Thanks Graham. If you have a chance, would you show us how to mortise a box or chest lock with a half-mortise and full mortise. Also can you demonstrate the use of lock-mortise chisels, if you have any? Thanks!
'Registered' mortice chisel- often called a framing chisel, as it was used in timber frame construction; this required robust design for cutting large and deep mortices. Socket or tang- the advantage of the socket is the slow transition to the handle, leaving no ledge that can mar the wood at low angles. However it costs more- and has become a badge of 'upmarket' chisels. Many bevel chisels now have them, so use is no longer the distinction. Great detail on mortice cutting! Thanks.
I got your book when it first came out. (You were in Woodstock at the time, and I met you in person a few years later). Happy to see you on TH-cam now. Years ago, I bought some English made Footprint "Registered Mortising Chisels" and they are quite different from yours, and look more like what you describe as a firmer chisel. Unfortunately, they don't appear to be made any more. They were recommended in Fine Woodworking at the time, probably in the 1980s. I'd send a photo but there does not appear to be a way to add one in a comment.
I’m wondering why the sash chisels are so long. They seem excessively long for the job they do. But I have no experience and I’m eager to learn. Excellent lesson! You cleared up much of my confusion about chisel types.
Thanks Graham. You said the sides of mortise chisels are parallel. I thought they were a little wider on the back (flat side) of the chisel than they are on the bevel side to give a little relief. Can you clarify?
What are the methods of sharpening a mortise chisel ? Grinding it when it is in very bad condition and just fine sharpening when it’s in pretty good condition ?
The registered mortise chisels (which I've always called "pig stickers") have more of a curved "bevel" than bench chisels. Is that intentional? How do you sharpen the chisel so as to maintain the shape? Good video. Thank you for sharing.
I have a number of your books. They are excellent . Passing on your knowledge ro future generations is much appreciated ! I have a better understanding of my tools thanks to your guidance.
Great information as usual. I'm so glad Rex Kreuger pointed his viewers over to you. I do have to comment on that absolutely beautiful brass and wood marking gauge sitting on your bench. I'm sure I wouldn't be the only one to appreciate you taking a moment in a future video to give us all a closer look.
May well do...
excellent.. Thanks for taking the time to tech folks.. I always have been a believer in passing on what one has learned to the youngers.. Carry on!
Glad to help
Thanks for you teaching. Take care & stay safe.
Thanks, you too!
Thank you for such a helpful tutorial.
You’re welcome!
After watching this I just ordered two carpenter mortise chisels an 8mm and a 14mm. I need to cut a few good mortises for my bench build. Thanks for the lesson.
You're very welcome!
@@gjbmunc Your welcome sir. I have just completed chopping 4 mortises that are 1.25”x5”x2” depth and they came out square and snug. These are for the short and long stretches connecting to the legs of my work bench build. I really enjoyed that. Now, on to the through mortises for the legs wedged tenons to connect to the bench top.
Thanks Graham. If you have a chance, would you show us how to mortise a box or chest lock with a half-mortise and full mortise. Also can you demonstrate the use of lock-mortise chisels, if you have any? Thanks!
Thanks a lot, Graham! I definitely need to find some of those! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks, you too!
'Registered' mortice chisel- often called a framing chisel, as it was used in timber frame construction; this required robust design for cutting large and deep mortices.
Socket or tang- the advantage of the socket is the slow transition to the handle, leaving no ledge that can mar the wood at low angles. However it costs more- and has become a badge of 'upmarket' chisels. Many bevel chisels now have them, so use is no longer the distinction.
Great detail on mortice cutting! Thanks.
You're welcome!
Wonderful video. I didn’t know that there was a difference in mortise chisels. Good to know.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for sharing. Great lesson.
My pleasure!
I got your book when it first came out. (You were in Woodstock at the time, and I met you in person a few years later). Happy to see you on TH-cam now. Years ago, I bought some English made Footprint "Registered Mortising Chisels" and they are quite different from yours, and look more like what you describe as a firmer chisel. Unfortunately, they don't appear to be made any more. They were recommended in Fine Woodworking at the time, probably in the 1980s. I'd send a photo but there does not appear to be a way to add one in a comment.
Different manufacturers often confuse things by trying to seem unique.
Mortise chisels are my favorite type. I look for opportunities to chop mortises!
Have fun!
Excellent tutorial sir.
Many thanks
I’m wondering why the sash chisels are so long. They seem excessively long for the job they do. But I have no experience and I’m eager to learn.
Excellent lesson! You cleared up much of my confusion about chisel types.
They're the right length for most sash mortises.
Thanks Graham
You're welcome.
I have quite old nice Marples sash mortising chisel and it has tongue not socket.
Yes, there's always something different!
Thanks Graham. You said the sides of mortise chisels are parallel. I thought they were a little wider on the back (flat side) of the chisel than they are on the bevel side to give a little relief. Can you clarify?
Maybe some are, but in general the sides should be parallel.
What are the methods of sharpening a mortise chisel ? Grinding it when it is in very bad condition and just fine sharpening when it’s in pretty good condition ?
The registered mortise chisels (which I've always called "pig stickers") have more of a curved "bevel" than bench chisels. Is that intentional? How do you sharpen the chisel so as to maintain the shape? Good video. Thank you for sharing.
I prefer a flat bevel, achieved either by hand on a flat stone, or by using a small bevel guide.
6:10 How many degrees mortise chisel usually have in blade?
depends on quality of chisel but 26 is a good place to start then go higher if it lasts.
Would you not recommend the David Charlesworth ruler trick on a mortise chisel? Keep the back flat from tang to tip?
Indeed, keep the back flat from tang to tip.
Thanks
Welcome
thank you,
You are welcome!
Thanks
You're very welcome!