I've learned to add some wraps on locking tuners because occasionally when taking the guitar out of the gig bag, it'll brush up against the tuners and loosen the thumbscrew on one and the string will slip out. If you put the string on with no slack, it's really hard to rethread the string again. Having just a little extra string to work with solves the problem.
Yeah good Idea I use 9's so no matter how tight I pull when Installing a new set of strings . I'm still gonna get a wrap or two by the time they are fully stretched and broken in . After that it stays in Tune for a good while . I don't have oily or sweaty hands so if I wipe down and use some Fast Fret after playing I can get a Month out of a set of strings . But everyone is different . I have used GHS Boomers 9's since 1980 and they are still my fav to this day , better quality then most Guitarists know . I learned in the 80's when stings were $20 bucks a pack so boiled them and all kinds of preservation methods LOL
I used to pull the strings as tightly as possible before locking. Never really had problems with breaking strings until recently. Since then I lock the strings with enough slack for a full turn on the tuning post. Fun fact: the amount of force that a string wound around a post can hold without slipping increases exponentially with the angle. So a little more slack makes a big difference!
It's always made sense to me to pull the string through the tuner and then back it off a tiny bit before locking it in. I rarely break strings. Also make sure you don't tighten the screw too much either. 😂
@@iamhated1292 Oh no, only once and it wasn't me. I got one of my guitars back from the guitar tech in town and the high E or B string broke right at the tuner. The screw was very tight. The tuners are Gotoh Magnums, and it would have been like a 9 or 11 gauge GHS string. I don't normally use that brand.
I put locking tuners on most every guitar I own and I am a huge fan of them! I use 9 to 42 so I’ve not had any issues with the high E string breaking even know if I do massive bends. Over the years I have found out that if you use a whole wrap or more with locking tuners, they don’t hold tune as well as if you use no more than a half a turn. I can get massive sustain out of most of my guitars.
A single wrap is ideal. There are three great reasons to do it. 1. It prevents string breakage by spreading the tension around over one-half inch of steel alloy in a standard post, which is about .2" diameter. 2. It maximizes the resonance transfer. Less string/post contact reduces surface area and attenuates more vibration from the string to the body than a single wrap does. Over-wrapping dampens the transference due to the phase difference and excess mass at the points of contact. 3. It's the easiest way to restring locking tuners. Slip a string into the post hole and adjust the lock to gently touch the string. Turn the tuning key three-quarters of a revolution (270 degrees). Pinch the end of the string, remove any slack and lock it. Snip excess string and tune up. Guide the unwound string under the string on the post. Enjoy!
Great info. I usually pull the string pretty tight then pre-trim the string about 1/4" from the tuner. I then pull it back into the tuner just enough so there is no sharp end poking out and then lock and tune. This usually gives about 1 to 1.5 turns on it and works well for me.
@@stevenellis8365 Graphtec makes TusqXL self-lubricating string trees embedded with teflon - fixed some issues for me! My luthier was a fanatic about break angle!
@@fredstevens799 I tried the Tusq string tree on my Tele, it’s no improvement at all over the stamped steel tree. The largest problem with that guitar is that the tree is too close to the nut and has too much break angle.
I use locking tuners on all but my Tele. I have never broken a string and I bend the crap out of my (only Stringjoy) strings. My favorite locker is the top-lock from PRS.
I’ve used a lot of locking tuners. I’m def a fan. But yes, I actually line the hole up and down, but then wrap the string over the top and down through the hole before locking it. This gives me half a wrap before I start tuning. And I usually end up with 3/4-1 turn when the string is in tune. Also, if you get a chance, try Graphtech ratio tuners. They make locking and non locking. But each tuner has a different ratio. So now each 1/2 turn is roughly a half step. So those strings that can be finicky, like the g, are now much easier to tune. It’s all I use now. And no I’m not affiliated with them in anyway.
@@jamesbrown4587 yes they’re more expensive the some. About the same price as schallers, but much less than prs phase 3 tuners. So it’s all relative. And prices seem to have come down. It wasn’t long ago most brand name locking tuner sets were approx $100.
@matt Edmonds those prs phase3 tuners are not something I would like to own. I am not a fan of open-back tuners. But they are very expensive you're right I didn't pay close to that for my graphtech locking ratio tuners.
I got a Deluxe plus Strat in 96. It has locking tuners. Got way use to this convenience. Got a Les Paul studio in 2012. Had regular Kluson tuners and the G had slack in it. Could actually pull string a little every time I would try. During a run of "Fix this guitar my way", I decided to change tuners to these Revolution locking tuners. Everything fit real nice, they look the same in front as you look at the guitar, they don't add enough weigh to feel any different. Plus to save money I put together a cart of stuff for my Les Paul and then offered the sell another cheaper price. While I didn't save a ton, I got a lot of value for my buck. At least in my opinion. Changed everything a studio cheaps out on; Tonespro locking bridge, alum tailpiece, Tusc XL nut, CTS 500K pots, 50's wiring to go with a 97 ebony fretboard black w/ gold trim studio. Came used with 496/500 pups, straplocks, and a chainsaw case. Now it's a hotrodded classic looking Paul. With the only problem, the dork behind the wheel. L O L
I like my locking tuners on my Les Paul however, I use your Strinjoy round core wrapped so I still put one to two wraps on the peg to make sure I won't have any unraveling of the string wrap.
On my Fender style headstock I have a tiny amount of slack before I tighten the lockers. By the time I'm up to pitch I have about 1/2 turn on the tuners and I've never broken a string up there, or had any issues with the break angle. I like the lockers and I've never looked back!
I use sperzel locking tuners on all of my guitars. I've never had any issues, aside from perfect tuning. I've never broken a string or anything else. Locking tuners are a must on my guitars. My stinging method is, I pull the string through loosely, tighten the thumb screw, and tune. Then I stretch and retune. I usually end up with about a quarter turn wrap on each string. This seems to be ideal for me.
It takes bravery to admit when you're was wrong or to even admit that we're humans and our opinions can change and evolve. Good on you, and thanks for sharing!
I have enjoyed locking tuners on my electrics so much that I'm starting to put them on my acoustics. Gotoh, Hipshot & Grover all make decent locking machines to replace most sealed types with zero drilling. Now, if only Waverly made a PRS style lock pin shaft (top screw) for their tuners. I'm not replacing $170 Waverly tuners with $70 Gotohs.
About 20 years ago, Kluson had top locking vintage style tuners. They were not popular at all. I bought a set on eBay in 2005, that were hard to find, even then. I just now used that set on a build and I love them.
@@solomonsanchez1897 very cool, I wasn't aware of those. My Gotoh back-pin Kluson type are pretty good (but their auto-lockers are miserable!!). I will start searching for the old genuine Klusons, thanks!
The only issue I've ever had with locking tuners is the slightly increased mass. You'll want to keep that in mind if you're installing them on guitars that are prone to neck dive or are at the limit of having neck dive issues.
I've never had a string break while using locking tuners -- but I do always use Stringjoy's so maybe that's the reason! Thanks for the video! love the strings!
OK so what about locking tuners on an acoustic? Worth the upgrade? Seems like a great idea - when you said "change a string in 30 seconds" I became way more interested
In my opinion, I love my locking tuners on my acoustics. I use the D'Addario Auto-Trim locking tuners on ALL my acoustics. Saves me a ton of time and hassle. I don't have to carry a set of wire cutters with me and have them confiscated at the airport.
I have locking tuners on my acoustic from the Hipshot brand. They are awesome and so much better. On my other acoustic I keep the standard tuners for sentimental value since I want to keep everything original. But any future new acoustics will get locking tunes unless if it’s a vintage one for historical preservation
I also leave a little bit of slack when I use the locking tuners, just in case I have to occasionally down tune the guitar (so that the string curvature is still there even at lower tuning).
it seems to me that, if you turn the tuning peg 90 degrees before you insert the string end, then, turning the peg only a quarter turn or so will be enough to give you that 'rounded' edge you need to avoid breakage. I plan to give 'em a try. Cheers!
@@Stringjoy if I go from standard tuning to downtunining a lot, are locking tuners right for me? Asking because if there's almost no wraps around the tuning peg before standard tuning is achieved, how would I be able to downtune that string? Thanks
@@allboutthemojo Downtuning isn't usually a problem. Even if you leave no slack before locking, there's only so much tension you can reasonably put on a string with your hand alone, so there's still enough room to downtune by a few semitones. The only caveat I've found is related to the string breaking issue described in this video - if your string is hanging by a sharp edge of a tuner hole, and you keep tuning down and up a bunch of times, the string may break at that point. Seems to only affect the thinnest strings though, I've broken a few High Es that way.
I have self locking grovers that work by grabbing pinching the string with torque. Sometimes I run the unwound strings through the hole in the tuner twice. I've never broken a string or had tuning problems.
I just bought some of those. So far they've been really nice!
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Interestingly PRS used to recommend the first method (pull tight, tune up) but now changed to let ~2 Fingers between fretboard and strings slack and wrap around (it'll be around 1 wrap for me) - they claim it'll improve the tuning stability - personally I had no issue with either but I do it this way now too
Used to not care about locking tuners, then bought the 75th anniversary commemorative strat that came with locking tuners, now I want them in all my guitars
Fabulous video. Very informative. This is not the usual "here is how I do it" video. This instructor gives the whys and science behind what actually happens with a locking tuner and considers various guitar head configurations. Worth the watch. Thank you.
I always use either kluson/wilkinson split locks or hipshot locking tuners. My process for the wrap is what changes the most, but I always get at least two full wraps on the splits and one whole wrap on the lockers. Haven’t had a string break up there…maybe ever. Hundreds of sets.
I always put a little extra slack on my PRS locking tuners. I do it for two reasons; to ensure the string is locked but doesn't have that breaking angle, and just in case I drop tune.
I never had a string break clean off the post, but I've had rattling or dull strings which I realized was the outer wrap coming loose. So I pull most strings through tightly, but beyond let's say .054 gauge, I leave enough slack for 1 turn.
I have played with 9's for 40 years and in the last 2 Decades I have put Locking tuners on every Guitar I have owned the Resonance/ Sustain is Improved to my ears , use them with Floyds or any style bridge . Not a string breaker and I play Shred, Metal ,Glam & Thrash majority of the time . Staggered Tuners deal with break Angles !!
Thanks for tip on leaving them a little slightly less tension to help with breakage. Keep breaking the 2nd string on my 335. Will try it not as tight for more of a loop around.
I got a set of Graphtech ratio tuners that have different gears for each string so that the tuning turns are the same for each string, pretty nice design. Cheap? No, but very well made.
An unexpected downside to locking tuners I found is that when I hang my reverse headstock 7 string on the wall, the bottom tuning peg's locking gear (high E string) rests on the wall hanger and slowly turns itself lose. I've had the high E string suddenly slip out of it's lock 3-4 times before I realized what exactly was going on. Because of how little slack there is and the kinks in the string, it's near impossible to relock the string. Now I make sure to make 2 wraps on the high E only.
The way to use locking tuners is to put the string hole at right angles to the string direction. Then you pull through and tighten the lock. I never have string breakage. NEVER!!! EVER!!!
Been using locking tuners for the past 8 years on three different guitars (without a locking nut); have never broken a string, even with bending often and heavy whammy-tremolo bar use on a superstrat.
I am a strong supporter of locking tuners, have them on all my guitars, and hate the old-fashioned wrapping and tying. Too unreliable and unpredictable. That said, yes, one should not pull the strings really tight, so taut, so that it takes a half to 3/4 of a rotation to get to pitch. And another big caveat, don't overtighten, especially would strings, that can almost literally tear them apart.
Just received my schecter c1 sls elite evil twin yesterday. My first guitar w locking tuners which is why I'm on here learning about them. From the factory out of the box they come with 2 full wraps around the peg. Most videos on here say that's wrong and to have no wraps. Idk which way to do it now
Have 2 guitars with locking tuners, 2 without which have Floyd Rose's so a locking nut, and the rest not... I have come to hate non-locking tuners (though don't mind on the FRs). I can understand it on some affordable guitars but one of my most affordable is a Sire Les Paul, it has locking tuners. No excuse without a locking nut. Never had a break on locking either, I have had 1 set break on a FR while tuning and it has forever put my off EBs... Could have been something I did but never had it before or since.
Thanks for the great information! I've thought of doing a couple upgrades to my Gibson Les Paul Studio, and I'm weighing what components to upgrade in the near future. Switching to Stringjoy Signatures 9/42's really brought me much closer for the sound I'm seeking. Locking tuners, are definitely now on the short list.
@@DwightP980 The String Butler will change your life if you love your Les Paul, SG etc but are plagued with tuning problems due to string angles through the nut. Best money I ever spent on my guitar.
The best thing I ever added to my Les Paul is a String Butler. This improves the tuning stability so much I wouldn't have a three a side splayed headstock without one.
I changed tuners( Kluson lockers), nut (Tusc XL) , bridge (Tonespro locking). Haven't had any tuning problems at all. I'm using DAddario XL140 strings which are a heavy bottom .10 light top set. I go back and forth drop D with this guitar all the time. Also guitar still looks stock, classic look I like. Only sharp eyes could tell difference.
I haven't used locking tuners until I got a new guitar that has them. So far, it seems to me like they're more trouble than they're worth, especially since some strings have broken right off the bat. But there are a few good comments here about ways to prevent that, like not tightening the locks too much and allowing for a few more turns. That being said, if I don't have to worry about this problem with my other guitar with non-locking tuners, then maybe I should just pick a guitar without locking tuners next time.
Some guitar tech told me "The guys from that shop robbed you, they used some Sperzels from 3x3 and mixed with others from a 6 in line.. like a stratocaster" I thought God works in misterious ways"🤣.
Hi man, this backangle on the nut is a major issue - thanks for the tip. After i changed to locking tuners i decided to try back the older ones: much more harmonic content and playfull tones!!! I guess making turns on a locking one is good BUT- graphtech are very poor metal made so the wraps will kill the sound
I dunno if this is just me or whatever, mainly because I don't gig but after I restrung my guitar, I don't play it for another 30 mins to an hour just to get the strings stretched and used to the neck.
surprised you dont see any custom guitars made with headstocks that go straight backwards at a right angle like a lute, that'll give you enough break angle.
I'm mainly an acoustic player but I'm considering locking tuners for a telecaster build. I plan to play open G and open D with a slide as well as standard tuning. Can I still tune down from standard with locking tuners? Thanks from South Mississippi!
I realize that is is a very broad and subjective subject, as there are many great brands of tuners, and after doing a little research I'm now very interested in replacing my tuners on my 1998 Gibson Les Paul Studio. Trouble is from what I've learned plugging and re-drilling the headstock, is maybe a factor with the use of some brands. Anyone replaced tuners with drop-in locking tuners on their Les Paul, and what brand/model would you recommend? Thanks for recommendations, an any insight in to your experiences!
There is another trick. You can put a string through another peg after the one your doing, so it's going through two. Tune it up and then lock the first. Cut and your string will be straight with no angle. Having no wraps gives better tuning stability which is the main reason for locking tuners.
What locking tuners are put on this guitar? I'm considering putting em on my 97' Jagmaster and 60's Tribute SG but it's difficult to know which ones are good price/quality wise.
You're not supposed to pull it tight before anchoring. Make sure your holes are perpendicular to the neck, run the string through and leave a little slack
I use boat epoxy and glob it on on around the tuner and when those strings are dead…. I just throw the guitar away and buy a new one….keeps the guitar industry happier instead of worrying about strings….. hahaha
Pre internet, with little available outside input, I once concluded that Gibson produced the more musical and easier to play instruments. For the last two decades I've exclusively played Fender. Opinions def do change, which is something that many should remember, especially when it comes to politics and religion.When and if they don't change, it more likely suggests that you have failed to learn and grow.
It's not rocket science, wrap the string under itself and 3 wraps on wound, 5 on unwound, make sure the string finishes at the bottom of the peg, no need whatsoever for Locking Machine heads. 30 Guitars here and never broke a string, unless the string was faulty or a burred edge.
You're really overthinking this. There's no great debate to be had here and there's no 2 ways to use locking tuners either. Thin strings on guitars without locking tuners don't pull out and you're not "reinforcing" anything by using windings + locking tuners.. People that put windings on with locking tuners are just not using them correctly. The key thing is tuning stability and windings add friction that using locking tuners allow you to remove. This has led to the wider spread of guitars without locking tremolo arms like Ibanez AZ. The string isn't putting more tension with them and it won't lead to any greater string breakage. As you note if you have a locking nut then you don't need locking tuners or windings - basically you can put your strings on without a winding as if you had locking tuners.
So, you didn't like locking tuners before you got that Les Paul, and that was your first guitar with locking tuners, meaning you didn't like locking tuners 'cause you haven't tried them at the time :P
@@jeremywilson15147 not if you don’t have enough turns of string on the peg. Video said the proper way to use the locking tuner is to stretch the string out, and, once locked, only turn 1/4 to 1/2 a turn to reach pitch (I assume standard tuning). What happens when you need to detune more than 1/4-1/2 turn?
@@mftorino you won't. Unless you can pull a string to within a full step of standard tuning before locking the tuner... which I'm willing to bet you can't, and even if you can, that's a ridiculous amount of tension to put on a string by hand. When you stretch the string out straight before locking, you likely won't be anywhere near standard tuning. I put my strings through my locking tuners the 'traditional' way, with less than 1/4 wind, and I have access to every tension between "too flimsy to ring" and standard.
Keep it simple .If the guitar trust rod has issues .poor strings ..bad bridge ..Locking Tuners RIP ...today people play less and do more science ..More knowledge less apply on playing ..😂😂😂😂😂
I've learned to add some wraps on locking tuners because occasionally when taking the guitar out of the gig bag, it'll brush up against the tuners and loosen the thumbscrew on one and the string will slip out. If you put the string on with no slack, it's really hard to rethread the string again. Having just a little extra string to work with solves the problem.
Makes sense
What if you need extra length to "Drop Tune"?
Yeah good Idea I use 9's so no matter how tight I pull when Installing a new set of strings . I'm still gonna get a wrap or two by the time they are fully stretched and broken in . After that it stays in Tune for a good while . I don't have oily or sweaty hands so if I wipe down and use some Fast Fret after playing I can get a Month out of a set of strings . But everyone is different . I have used GHS Boomers 9's since 1980 and they are still my fav to this day , better quality then most Guitarists know . I learned in the 80's when stings were $20 bucks a pack so boiled them and all kinds of preservation methods LOL
Don't do this. It's idiotic. You are just giving the string a chance to go out of tune and nullifying the whole point of locking tuners
Wrapping a string on a locking tuner shaft is just inviting the tuning problem right through the front door. 😂
This one time at band camp, I had some tuners stolen, so now I lock them.
I used to pull the strings as tightly as possible before locking. Never really had problems with breaking strings until recently. Since then I lock the strings with enough slack for a full turn on the tuning post. Fun fact: the amount of force that a string wound around a post can hold without slipping increases exponentially with the angle. So a little more slack makes a big difference!
It's always made sense to me to pull the string through the tuner and then back it off a tiny bit before locking it in. I rarely break strings. Also make sure you don't tighten the screw too much either. 😂
I assume you've cut a few strings with your locking tuners? I'm curious what gauge strings do you use? and what brand of tuners?
@@iamhated1292 Oh no, only once and it wasn't me. I got one of my guitars back from the guitar tech in town and the high E or B string broke right at the tuner. The screw was very tight. The tuners are Gotoh Magnums, and it would have been like a 9 or 11 gauge GHS string. I don't normally use that brand.
@@Just-Michael thanks for getting back to me! Good to know.
@@Just-Michael gotoh!
I put locking tuners on most every guitar I own and I am a huge fan of them! I use 9 to 42 so I’ve not had any issues with the high E string breaking even know if I do massive bends.
Over the years I have found out that if you use a whole wrap or more with locking tuners, they don’t hold tune as well as if you use no more than a half a turn. I can get massive sustain out of most of my guitars.
Exactly! Multiple wraps defeat the purpose of having locking tuners.
A single wrap is ideal. There are three great reasons to do it.
1. It prevents string breakage by spreading the tension around over one-half inch of steel alloy in a standard post, which is about .2" diameter.
2. It maximizes the resonance transfer. Less string/post contact reduces surface area and attenuates more vibration from the string to the body than a single wrap does. Over-wrapping dampens the transference due to the phase difference and excess mass at the points of contact.
3. It's the easiest way to restring locking tuners. Slip a string into the post hole and adjust the lock to gently touch the string. Turn the tuning key three-quarters of a revolution (270 degrees). Pinch the end of the string, remove any slack and lock it. Snip excess string and tune up. Guide the unwound string under the string on the post.
Enjoy!
Thanks! That does make sense.
Great info. I usually pull the string pretty tight then pre-trim the string about 1/4" from the tuner. I then pull it back into the tuner just enough so there is no sharp end poking out and then lock and tune. This usually gives about 1 to 1.5 turns on it and works well for me.
Staggered height locking tuners on a strat or straight headstock is awesome!
Spertzels are designed that way. I've got them on my Strat and they're great. They're also made here in my backyard in Cleveland Ohio.
Agreed 100%. I hate string trees on my Strats and Teles, they are an endless source of tuning issues.
Yep, on all my Fenders and looking at putting on my Squire Classic Vibe 50's Tele I'm about to hand down to a grand kid.
@@stevenellis8365 Graphtec makes TusqXL self-lubricating string trees embedded with teflon - fixed some issues for me! My luthier was a fanatic about break angle!
@@fredstevens799 I tried the Tusq string tree on my Tele, it’s no improvement at all over the stamped steel tree. The largest problem with that guitar is that the tree is too close to the nut and has too much break angle.
I use locking tuners on all but my Tele. I have never broken a string and I bend the crap out of my (only Stringjoy) strings. My favorite locker is the top-lock from PRS.
I totally agree that you gotta give that tiny amount of slack on a wrap for locking tuners, helps the reliability for sure!
Don’t we want “general funkiness” on bass?!?! 😜😉
I believe that is your Warhammer title, General.
@@Stringjoy that would be a great title.
I’ve used a lot of locking tuners. I’m def a fan. But yes, I actually line the hole up and down, but then wrap the string over the top and down through the hole before locking it. This gives me half a wrap before I start tuning. And I usually end up with 3/4-1 turn when the string is in tune.
Also, if you get a chance, try Graphtech ratio tuners. They make locking and non locking. But each tuner has a different ratio. So now each 1/2 turn is roughly a half step. So those strings that can be finicky, like the g, are now much easier to tune. It’s all I use now. And no I’m not affiliated with them in anyway.
@Matt Edmonds yes graphtech tuners are amazing they're the best especially the ratio locking tuners and ratio tuners are there quite expensive
@@jamesbrown4587 yes they’re more expensive the some. About the same price as schallers, but much less than prs phase 3 tuners. So it’s all relative. And prices seem to have come down. It wasn’t long ago most brand name locking tuner sets were approx $100.
@matt Edmonds those prs phase3 tuners are not something I would like to own. I am not a fan of open-back tuners. But they are very expensive you're right I didn't pay close to that for my graphtech locking ratio tuners.
I got a Deluxe plus Strat in 96. It has locking tuners. Got way use to this convenience. Got a Les Paul studio in 2012. Had regular Kluson tuners and the G had slack in it. Could actually pull string a little every time I would try. During a run of "Fix this guitar my way", I decided to change tuners to these Revolution locking tuners. Everything fit real nice, they look the same in front as you look at the guitar, they don't add enough weigh to feel any different. Plus to save money I put together a cart of stuff for my Les Paul and then offered the sell another cheaper price. While I didn't save a ton, I got a lot of value for my buck. At least in my opinion. Changed everything a studio cheaps out on; Tonespro locking bridge, alum tailpiece, Tusc XL nut, CTS 500K pots, 50's wiring to go with a 97 ebony fretboard black w/ gold trim studio. Came used with 496/500 pups, straplocks, and a chainsaw case. Now it's a hotrodded classic looking Paul. With the only problem, the dork behind the wheel. L O L
I like my locking tuners on my Les Paul however, I use your Strinjoy round core wrapped so I still put one to two wraps on the peg to make sure I won't have any unraveling of the string wrap.
On my Fender style headstock I have a tiny amount of slack before I tighten the lockers. By the time I'm up to pitch I have about 1/2 turn on the tuners and I've never broken a string up there, or had any issues with the break angle. I like the lockers and I've never looked back!
I use sperzel locking tuners on all of my guitars. I've never had any issues, aside from perfect tuning. I've never broken a string or anything else. Locking tuners are a must on my guitars. My stinging method is, I pull the string through loosely, tighten the thumb screw, and tune. Then I stretch and retune. I usually end up with about a quarter turn wrap on each string. This seems to be ideal for me.
It takes bravery to admit when you're was wrong or to even admit that we're humans and our opinions can change and evolve. Good on you, and thanks for sharing!
The tuners I have, the hole is lower...creating the same break angle.
I have enjoyed locking tuners on my electrics so much that I'm starting to put them on my acoustics. Gotoh, Hipshot & Grover all make decent locking machines to replace most sealed types with zero drilling.
Now, if only Waverly made a PRS style lock pin shaft (top screw) for their tuners. I'm not replacing $170 Waverly tuners with $70 Gotohs.
I really like my PRS top screw type tuners.
About 20 years ago, Kluson had top locking vintage style tuners. They were not popular at all. I bought a set on eBay in 2005, that were hard to find, even then. I just now used that set on a build and I love them.
@@solomonsanchez1897 very cool, I wasn't aware of those. My Gotoh back-pin Kluson type are pretty good (but their auto-lockers are miserable!!).
I will start searching for the old genuine Klusons, thanks!
The only issue I've ever had with locking tuners is the slightly increased mass. You'll want to keep that in mind if you're installing them on guitars that are prone to neck dive or are at the limit of having neck dive issues.
I notice the weight and a mild neck dive on my 2013 LP Standard with the included locking Grovers. Thinking of changing to tulip klusons.
@@davephilpott4543 I'm surprised. Les Pauls are so heavy to begin with that the tuners shouldn't make much of a difference.
I've never had a string break while using locking tuners -- but I do always use Stringjoy's so maybe that's the reason! Thanks for the video! love the strings!
Have you been using Stringjoy's since you've started playing?
OK so what about locking tuners on an acoustic? Worth the upgrade? Seems like a great idea - when you said "change a string in 30 seconds" I became way more interested
In my opinion, I love my locking tuners on my acoustics. I use the D'Addario Auto-Trim locking tuners on ALL my acoustics. Saves me a ton of time and hassle. I don't have to carry a set of wire cutters with me and have them confiscated at the airport.
I have a set on my sawtooth. I love them. ALL my guitars get them.
I have locking tuners on my acoustic from the Hipshot brand. They are awesome and so much better. On my other acoustic I keep the standard tuners for sentimental value since I want to keep everything original. But any future new acoustics will get locking tunes unless if it’s a vintage one for historical preservation
I also leave a little bit of slack when I use the locking tuners, just in case I have to occasionally down tune the guitar (so that the string curvature is still there even at lower tuning).
it seems to me that, if you turn the tuning peg 90 degrees before you insert the string end, then, turning the peg only a quarter turn or so will be enough to give you that 'rounded' edge you need to avoid breakage. I plan to give 'em a try. Cheers!
Neat idea!
@@Stringjoy if I go from standard tuning to downtunining a lot, are locking tuners right for me? Asking because if there's almost no wraps around the tuning peg before standard tuning is achieved, how would I be able to downtune that string? Thanks
@@allboutthemojo Downtuning isn't usually a problem. Even if you leave no slack before locking, there's only so much tension you can reasonably put on a string with your hand alone, so there's still enough room to downtune by a few semitones. The only caveat I've found is related to the string breaking issue described in this video - if your string is hanging by a sharp edge of a tuner hole, and you keep tuning down and up a bunch of times, the string may break at that point. Seems to only affect the thinnest strings though, I've broken a few High Es that way.
@@boshi9 good point. Didn't think of string breakage that way.
I have self locking grovers that work by grabbing pinching the string with torque. Sometimes I run the unwound strings through the hole in the tuner twice. I've never broken a string or had tuning problems.
I just bought some of those. So far they've been really nice!
Interestingly PRS used to recommend the first method (pull tight, tune up) but now changed to let ~2 Fingers between fretboard and strings slack and wrap around (it'll be around 1 wrap for me) - they claim it'll improve the tuning stability - personally I had no issue with either but I do it this way now too
Used to not care about locking tuners, then bought the 75th anniversary commemorative strat that came with locking tuners, now I want them in all my guitars
Fabulous video. Very informative. This is not the usual "here is how I do it" video. This instructor gives the whys and science behind what actually happens with a locking tuner and considers various guitar head configurations. Worth the watch. Thank you.
I always use either kluson/wilkinson split locks or hipshot locking tuners. My process for the wrap is what changes the most, but I always get at least two full wraps on the splits and one whole wrap on the lockers. Haven’t had a string break up there…maybe ever. Hundreds of sets.
I always put a little extra slack on my PRS locking tuners. I do it for two reasons; to ensure the string is locked but doesn't have that breaking angle, and just in case I drop tune.
I never had a string break clean off the post, but I've had rattling or dull strings which I realized was the outer wrap coming loose. So I pull most strings through tightly, but beyond let's say .054 gauge, I leave enough slack for 1 turn.
I have played with 9's for 40 years and in the last 2 Decades I have put Locking tuners on every Guitar I have owned the Resonance/ Sustain is Improved to my ears , use them with Floyds or any style bridge . Not a string breaker and I play Shred, Metal ,Glam & Thrash majority of the time . Staggered Tuners deal with break Angles !!
8😊😊
You really describe exactly what i feel now I bought my first electric guitar 1 month ago
Thanks for tip on leaving them a little slightly less tension to help with breakage. Keep breaking the 2nd string on my 335. Will try it not as tight for more of a loop around.
I got a set of Graphtech ratio tuners that have different gears for each string so that the tuning turns are the same for each string, pretty nice design. Cheap? No, but very well made.
You want to reduce wraps around the peg..maybe one and half...that way you don't have all the pressure on the anchor.
Recommend the minimum necessary to implement a luthier's knot, and running once around the peg so that the knot has enough pressure to hold.
An unexpected downside to locking tuners I found is that when I hang my reverse headstock 7 string on the wall, the bottom tuning peg's locking gear (high E string) rests on the wall hanger and slowly turns itself lose. I've had the high E string suddenly slip out of it's lock 3-4 times before I realized what exactly was going on. Because of how little slack there is and the kinks in the string, it's near impossible to relock the string. Now I make sure to make 2 wraps on the high E only.
The way to use locking tuners is to put the string hole at right angles to the string direction. Then you pull through and tighten the lock. I never have string breakage. NEVER!!! EVER!!!
Nice video buddy! I like how detailed you get with everything.
Been using locking tuners for the past 8 years on three different guitars (without a locking nut); have never broken a string, even with bending often and heavy whammy-tremolo bar use on a superstrat.
Great video. Also tone knob is often underused(if the guitar has one) to adjust shrill tones/open up more sonic territory
I am a strong supporter of locking tuners, have them on all my guitars, and hate the old-fashioned wrapping and tying. Too unreliable and unpredictable. That said, yes, one should not pull the strings really tight, so taut, so that it takes a half to 3/4 of a rotation to get to pitch. And another big caveat, don't overtighten, especially would strings, that can almost literally tear them apart.
Just received my schecter c1 sls elite evil twin yesterday. My first guitar w locking tuners which is why I'm on here learning about them. From the factory out of the box they come with 2 full wraps around the peg. Most videos on here say that's wrong and to have no wraps. Idk which way to do it now
Have 2 guitars with locking tuners, 2 without which have Floyd Rose's so a locking nut, and the rest not... I have come to hate non-locking tuners (though don't mind on the FRs). I can understand it on some affordable guitars but one of my most affordable is a Sire Les Paul, it has locking tuners. No excuse without a locking nut. Never had a break on locking either, I have had 1 set break on a FR while tuning and it has forever put my off EBs... Could have been something I did but never had it before or since.
Thanks for the great information! I've thought of doing a couple upgrades to my Gibson Les Paul Studio, and I'm weighing what components to upgrade in the near future. Switching to Stringjoy Signatures 9/42's really brought me much closer for the sound I'm seeking. Locking tuners, are definitely now on the short list.
Look into the String Butler, it fixes Les Paul tuning problems very well.
@@jerbear1601 Thanks for the information! I'll definitely be check them out.
@@DwightP980 The String Butler will change your life if you love your Les Paul, SG etc but are plagued with tuning problems due to string angles through the nut. Best money I ever spent on my guitar.
The best thing I ever added to my Les Paul is a String Butler. This improves the tuning stability so much I wouldn't have a three a side splayed headstock without one.
I changed tuners( Kluson lockers), nut (Tusc XL) , bridge (Tonespro locking). Haven't had any tuning problems at all. I'm using DAddario XL140 strings which are a heavy bottom .10 light top set. I go back and forth drop D with this guitar all the time. Also guitar still looks stock, classic look I like. Only sharp eyes could tell difference.
I haven't used locking tuners until I got a new guitar that has them. So far, it seems to me like they're more trouble than they're worth, especially since some strings have broken right off the bat. But there are a few good comments here about ways to prevent that, like not tightening the locks too much and allowing for a few more turns. That being said, if I don't have to worry about this problem with my other guitar with non-locking tuners, then maybe I should just pick a guitar without locking tuners next time.
Some guitar tech told me "The guys from that shop robbed you, they used some Sperzels from 3x3 and mixed with others from a 6 in line.. like a stratocaster" I thought God works in misterious ways"🤣.
The firebird pickup is the best humbucking pickup ever made.
Hi man, this backangle on the nut is a major issue - thanks for the tip. After i changed to locking tuners i decided to try back the older ones: much more harmonic content and playfull tones!!! I guess making turns on a locking one is good BUT- graphtech are very poor metal made so the wraps will kill the sound
PRS recommends 2 fingers of slack around the 3rd fret for their locking tuners
I dunno if this is just me or whatever, mainly because I don't gig but after I restrung my guitar, I don't play it for another 30 mins to an hour just to get the strings stretched and used to the neck.
I have locking tuners on my AmDlx Strat, but I don't find string changes significantly faster than old-school Fender slotted pegs.
surprised you dont see any custom guitars made with headstocks that go straight backwards at a right angle like a lute, that'll give you enough break angle.
Any alterations to the stringing process when installing the round core Broadways?
The only issue I have had with no wraps is one guitar with a 9 gauge high e and it just kept slipping.
So those aren't Les Paul Deluxe minis?
Other than the pole piece screws... Is there even a difference between Firebird mini's and normal Gibson minis?
I'm mainly an acoustic player but I'm considering locking tuners for a telecaster build. I plan to play open G and open D with a slide as well as standard tuning. Can I still tune down from standard with locking tuners?
Thanks from South Mississippi!
I realize that is is a very broad and subjective subject, as there are many great brands of tuners, and after doing a little research I'm now very interested in replacing my tuners on my 1998 Gibson Les Paul Studio. Trouble is from what I've learned plugging and re-drilling the headstock, is maybe a factor with the use of some brands. Anyone replaced tuners with drop-in locking tuners on their Les Paul, and what brand/model would you recommend? Thanks for recommendations, an any insight in to your experiences!
There is another trick. You can put a string through another peg after the one your doing, so it's going through two. Tune it up and then lock the first. Cut and your string will be straight with no angle. Having no wraps gives better tuning stability which is the main reason for locking tuners.
Very good engineering points.
What locking tuners are put on this guitar? I'm considering putting em on my 97' Jagmaster and 60's Tribute SG but it's difficult to know which ones are good price/quality wise.
I came for the locking tuners and you start off with the bridge pick up. I call that padding. Oh, and wasting people's time.
I start my string at half a wind and end up with 1 full wind or just a little more once tuned
I like simplicity on guitars. Locking tuners are out!
Hey Scott. Good video as always. I have a question. If someone is a StringJoy customer do you recommend they change their strings A LOT. 😜
We want you to get your full use out of them, keep 'em going as long as you can! They're designed to last and last.
How much slack do you need on the Estring if you want to do drop D?
How about locking tuners on acoustic guitar?
vintage Kluson style tuners are the best design, easier and just as fast as locking tuners.
I've never had a problem without wrapping the strings around my lockers
Wait... some bass players change their strings? I’ve got a handful of basses and all have the strings they came with ( over a decade ago]).
You're not supposed to pull it tight before anchoring. Make sure your holes are perpendicular to the neck, run the string through and leave a little slack
Doesn't it affect ability to drop-tune?
I use boat epoxy and glob it on on around the tuner and when those strings are dead…. I just throw the guitar away and buy a new one….keeps the guitar industry happier instead of worrying about strings….. hahaha
I'd like to meet the person who can manually pull a string "not quite in tune but almost there". lol.
Why do you sound like John Green
Pre internet, with little available outside input, I once concluded that Gibson produced the more musical and easier to play instruments.
For the last two decades I've exclusively played Fender.
Opinions def do change, which is something that many should remember, especially when it comes to politics and religion.When and if they don't change, it more likely suggests that you have failed to learn and grow.
It's not rocket science, wrap the string under itself and 3 wraps on wound, 5 on unwound, make sure the string finishes at the bottom of the peg, no need whatsoever for Locking Machine heads. 30 Guitars here and never broke a string, unless the string was faulty or a burred edge.
Locking Tuners : Game CHangers !
You're really overthinking this. There's no great debate to be had here and there's no 2 ways to use locking tuners either. Thin strings on guitars without locking tuners don't pull out and you're not "reinforcing" anything by using windings + locking tuners.. People that put windings on with locking tuners are just not using them correctly. The key thing is tuning stability and windings add friction that using locking tuners allow you to remove. This has led to the wider spread of guitars without locking tremolo arms like Ibanez AZ. The string isn't putting more tension with them and it won't lead to any greater string breakage. As you note if you have a locking nut then you don't need locking tuners or windings - basically you can put your strings on without a winding as if you had locking tuners.
I am still on the fence.
What the heck is a wolf tone? Lol
So, you didn't like locking tuners before you got that Les Paul, and that was your first guitar with locking tuners, meaning you didn't like locking tuners 'cause you haven't tried them at the time :P
Seems like locking tuners don't allow for tuning down, which I like to do every now and then to Eb Standard or D standard
They allow for tuning down the same as any other tuner.
@@jeremywilson15147 not if you don’t have enough turns of string on the peg. Video said the proper way to use the locking tuner is to stretch the string out, and, once locked, only turn 1/4 to 1/2 a turn to reach pitch (I assume standard tuning). What happens when you need to detune more than 1/4-1/2 turn?
@@mftorino you won't. Unless you can pull a string to within a full step of standard tuning before locking the tuner... which I'm willing to bet you can't, and even if you can, that's a ridiculous amount of tension to put on a string by hand. When you stretch the string out straight before locking, you likely won't be anywhere near standard tuning. I put my strings through my locking tuners the 'traditional' way, with less than 1/4 wind, and I have access to every tension between "too flimsy to ring" and standard.
@@jeremywilson15147 Ok, will try. Thanks for the tip!
@@mftorino no problem!
there a pain.
I loathe locking tuners and always will.
Interesting! Any particular reason?
Locking tuners on a non-tremolo guitar makes no sense to me. That like putting locking tuners on an acoustic guitar.
The added weight and size is enough right there for me not to like them.
It appears you aren’t done doing research on locking tuners… keep digging before you make videos…
What did we miss? We can always add information later and do appreciate any missed details getting caught.
Keep it simple .If the guitar trust rod has issues .poor strings ..bad bridge ..Locking Tuners RIP ...today people play less and do more science ..More knowledge less apply on playing ..😂😂😂😂😂