Instead of connecting the focus cube to power why don't you just rotate the focus knob on the other side of the telescope? I don't think the rotator will move, my PegasusAstro Falcon is stationary while the filter wheel rotates which in turn rotates the camera.
I could see doing that way if you were to put the coupler on the focus cube first. The Pegasus instructions suggest doing it this way. Yes, sorry I got mixed up - the rotator doesn’t move only the gear behind it in the image train.
I was thinking the same thing at first. But the real reason is to get the flat to line up in a position where you can tighten the grub screw with an allen key.
Great setup but make sure the flat panel lid doesn't block your guidescope when fully open. Looking forward to the images you will produce out of this.
Great video Nico. Enough to detail to follow along, without doing a deep dive. One thing I missed was the approximate cost of the fully remote rig. Will there a be a follow up with the setup in N.I.N.A or SG Pro?
Good video. I’m really glad you chose the ioptron gem45, because I have the cem40. And when I first started, I was lost in space with the tech, and really not even familiar with a laptop either. I am now, yrs. later, able to operate it with the hand held device. But most of the time it sits under a plastic cover and gets little use. Astrophotography is still a goal and I also have a Sony A7ii camera ready to go. I hope I’m not too far behind for your channels current curriculum.
This is a great vid Nico, you have given all the necessary info required for anyone to understand remote operation. I like the fact that this can be employed in any type of remote situation, like home observatories, or even for mobile astrophotography, making it easier to assemble and operate quickly other than mount levelling and polar alignment of course. Thank you for the time to make this 👍🏽
This was a terrific video, Nico, and I really liked that you used equipment from all different manufacturers and really focused on more economical solutions. I've haven't done this and I don't have any telescopes in remote locations so forgive me if this is a naive question, but would you also have to think about dew heaters and perhaps thermistors to control it/them? I know in the winter (in VT) I have dew heaters all over the place, even around my autofocuser, guide cam, and even my ASIAir, but I set the heat settings manually before I start my sessions. I wonder, too, if all remote telescope locations (and there seem to be more popping up every day) are created equally, and what sorts of things to look for prior to selecting one to host your telescope(s).
Excellent video Nico, thanks for making and I learned alot. One question, given this scope has a flattener inbuilt, and lets say you didnt opt for a reducer, then back focus isn't a problem and you could opt for an OAG setup too, with a bigger image train. Probably more relevant to larger scopes where OAG has more value. Also, from my research, if you do use a reducer/flatenner, it seems possible to put the rotator BEFORE the reducer/flattener also? Thanks!
Yes, you could add an OAG if not using the reducer. Putting the rotator before the reducer or flattener would be a case by case thing. With this scope you definitely could NOT put the rotator before the reducer. From all the different scopes and flatteners I’ve tried, I’d say that would work with a small minority, maybe 10-20%. It has to do with how the flattener is designed, some of them come apart and do have space and connection threads before the glass elements, but I wouldn’t count on it.
Your videos are awesome! I just started this hobby and thanks to you captured some great eclipse images. This is my long term goal, to have fully automated rig but probably use StellarMate Pro to control everything.
I wish you luck. But as a retired electronics technician this setup looks complicated enough to cause reliability problems. Complicated Dream setups have a tendency to turn into nightmares. Too many unsecured plugs with small conductor wires... Simplifying things would be more reliable. Enjoy! -mike
@nicholaslowe3185 This is for reliability, as most won;t Simplify their Dream... I'd use better wire for all USB cables, solder directly to the PC Boards with pigtails hooked to better connectors that screw together and are shielded, like Shielded gold plated DB-9's, and make matching interconnect cables labeled for what connectors match... A to A, B to B... Do the same for any other push in connectors using different Shielded Screw Together connectors or DB’s with different number of pins… H to H, G to G… Do the same for all Power Distribution using heavier wire and better Screw Together connectors… All Cabling cut to proper lengths without excess that can come loose and snag anywhere, and use double sided Velcro strips as wire stabilizers for fast easy swapping out as needed… (the military and NASA secure wires for reliability) Use a better quality more powerful active cooling computer (its not Necessary but over power rating equipment used more gently IS more reliable, as active cooling is better and more reliable than passive)… Assemble and test at home for several nights... Build a custom over cushioned crate and send assembled to be mounted, powered and internet’d (I’d probably use expanding foam halves / pieces that custom form and hols firmly) … Send redundant cables and equipment (especially a second setup and tested computer) for fast swap out troubleshooting and repairs, unless you want to be paying for & wasting observing time while any problem gets figured out and fixed. Remember YOU aren’t going to be there for quick fixes and the on site personnel are of an Unknown Quality for taking Your Place. More would come to mind during assembly and initial testing. This is off the top of my head. 🍺🍻
@nicholaslowe3185 Reliability since most won't simplify their dream,,, I'd use better wire for all USB cables, solder directly to the PC Boards with pigtails hooked to better connectors that screw together and are shielded, like Shielded gold plated DB-9's, and make matching interconnect cables labeled for what connectors match... A to A, B to B... Do the same for any other push in connectors using different Shielded Screw Together connectors or DB’s with different number of pins… H to H, G to G… Do the same for all Power Distribution using heavier wire and better Screw Together connectors… All Cabling cut to proper lengths without excess that can come loose and snag anywhere, and use double sided Velcro strips as wire stabilizers for fast easy swapping out as needed… (the military and NASA secure wires for reliability) Use a better quality more powerful active cooling computer (its not Necessary but over power rating equipment used more gently IS more reliable, as active cooling is better and more reliable than passive)… Assemble and test at home for several nights... Build a custom over cushioned crate and send assembled to be mounted, powered and internet’d (I’d probably use expanding foam halves / pieces that custom form and hols firmly) … Send redundant cables and equipment (especially a second setup and tested computer) for fast swap out troubleshooting and repairs, unless you want to be paying for & wasting observing time while any problem gets figured out and fixed. Remember YOU aren’t going to be there for quick fixes and the on site personnel are of an Unknown Quality for taking Your Place. More would come to mind during assembly and initial per shipment testing, this is off the top of my head.
Actually it's not complicated it just complicated to someone who isn't familiar, once you do this for Year's you know what to expect. I have automated to the point were it has a schedule to start it self and stop every day with out me having to do anything. I program it to do everything on its own. You have to test it out make sure there's no issues. The only imput it needs is the schedule times and the target once I give it that I don't have to do anything for a whole month. i just check and I'm like oh wow I got 100 hours of data feels like cheating cuz I'm not doing nothing besides put time of schedule. it finds the target and all that on its own
The plate itself is very heavy so having lots of it towards the front adds a kind of counterweight for all the stuff in the back. It also extends further back than the original plate which was only in the middle of the scope.
Awesome vid, man. I set up my mid size refractor for remote back yard/automated. I never got to the point of adding a focuser, but had a lot of fun\headaches, with configuring the mini PC, and adding some extra memory, as well as the "interesting" time with cabling, and 12V USB power port. When I get the time, I will refer back to this vid, for the 3D printed fabricators you mentioned, and possibly adding the rotator, and flats panel. I configured everything onto a Losmandy plate, so I could swap it out with my larger refractor and C11, though I never actually used it with with the other scopes. I love your technical correct and simple explanations. You are a good explainer, and I am very glad you transitioned to full time paid status in amateur astronomy. That is not an easy thing to do.
Thank you Nico for the video! I am planning to put my rig into an observatory in the center of Texas as well. A question about your computer, is it on at all times? I wonder what you switch on first, I am aware of the internet power switch from Digital Loggers, but once you switch on your computer, somehow you need to put the "On" button as well (may be WOL?). Thanks!
Ah sorry, it's a confusing term. What is meant by 'backfocus' in this case is the spacing between the end of the reducer and camera sensor. It's a separate issue from 'focus'. You can focus, but if your 'backfocus' or 'back spacing' is off, your stars in the corners will no longer be round.
Thanks for the vid! I had similar issues with my FRA400. I used the 300mm losmandy plate and needed to add a riser(thanks prima luce) due to the ZWO EAF needing more clearance. The balance is very far toward the rear, yes... Clear skies!
I quit watching these videos. I just look at great pics online of deep sky objects. I am not sure why I would buy 10K worth of telescope and hours of turning images when I can just get them online. I love a good hobby but this looks like a huge sink hole.
Nico you are one of the best "explainers" out there. Detailed enough to be able to replicate without putting me to sleep watching you unbox and put screws in...etc :) Love your videos! It was great meeting you at Neaf :)
Very informative. Question on the PC mounting plate. I'm also considering sending my Askar with a Mele PC. The link gets you to their website but none of the MiniPC options make sense. Which one did you get? Thank you!
In that configuration wouldn’t the auto flat field panel block the guide scope when imaging? This video is very informative. I’m putting together a remote setup to be shipped to Starfront observatory very soon.
I can open it to any angle so my first thought was just to open it to 90 degrees in which case it wouldn't block the guide scope, but Bray pointed out that increases the swing arm of the rig and would act as a wind sail, so he ziptied it with the motor on the side, so that I can open it all the way without blocking the guide scope.
When installing the focuser, is there a reason you powered it on and advanced the motor to align with the knob rather than just turning the back manual focus knob until IT aligned with the focuser?
Great setup!! I have the same scope but with the Primalucelab SESTO senso focuser and the Arco 2” work flawlessly. The flat panel you have is just the only thing I need for fully automated set up.
so weird. I've just spent a night setting up a second rig (FRA 400, Mele PC and Pegasus Powerbox). I had no idea about those Buckeyestargazer adapters. Thank you! I mean you've made my choice selection much worse, but thanks anyway :)
Hello Nico: Could you please make a video review of the Explore Scientific GO-TO mounts? I have two of them and I not been able to make them work yet. If you can make a video of how to use them, polar aligment and everything. Thanks!
The Wanderer Astro software lets you open/close it to any angle, so I was opening it to an angle where it didn’t block the guider. But I have basically no wind. For the final installation, it’s attached on the side so it can open all the way and that way won’t catch any wind gusts
Interesting video.. while we don’t use the same scope or mount, I found many of the same products for my observatory such as the digital loggers AC controlled supply, the Pegasus power box, and you’re the only other person I know who’s purchased the wander Astro light panel. I met Dan at NEAF and was attracted to the light panel due to the price as well. I simply could not put down $1000 for one of the other options.
Great Video considering Im setting a system up for the same remote site. I do wish you had gone into the configuring the minipc and digital logger for use for remote. Im not a network guy so this aspect is foreign to me. I did appreciate the tiny bit about changing the bios of the minipc to boot up when it gets power.
Can you put the rotator on the other way around and on the other side of the filter wheel? That way only the camera rotates. Also, there are reusable zip ties.... For your "flats flap".
Usually, you can just use the ones that come with the camera to reach 55mm backspacing from corrector to sensor which is the most common backspacing for telescope correctors (field flatteners, reducers, coma correctors, etc.) And if your telescope is a quad and the corrector is built-in, you don't need precise backspacing, but 55mm will still usually put you in a good spot for the focus range of the telescope. This is true of most refractors and Newtonian reflectors. Catadioptrics like SCTs and RCs often have more available backspacing, so definitely check with the manual for your telescope.
You matched the colour scheme of the main scope and guide scope, even though there won't be anyone there to see it, but couldn't match the colour of the elecrical tape which marks the position of the mounting rings? Shame!
Packaging? Shipping? I hope there is a follow up video, I can't wait to see the poor sod at the other end that has this turn up on his doorstep and then has to put it all together, along with the tripod and mount. I can't wait.
A couple tips I mentioned you may have missed: 1. If you have the original packaging your gear came with, use it. 2. If sending to a remote observatory where they install, I’d recommend also sending photos of the assembled rig, labels, and tape marks. From watching them install systems at Starfront this week, I’d say they are pretty good at figuring things out, but guidance and timesavers are always appreciated.
@@NebulaPhotos So, indeed, when you sent it, you sent it as multiple pieces? I was going to suggest either a local FedEx or UPS store. You'd have to check, but some of them have foam machines where you put expanding foam in bags, and then set the telescope, fully assembled on top, while it's still expanding. Then, once it's in place, you do another set for the top over the telescope. That way, you get a custom box packing and the rig is still completely built.
You don’t ship a tripod, they have custom made piers. I’m seriously considering getting a scope at Bray’s remote observatory, just trying to decide if I ship my gear or drive down the 3000km from Canada and hand deliver it
I have the wanderer flat panel on my SW ED80. If your planning on using it in a forward open position, meaning pointing away from the scope, be very aware of any stay light, the panel will capture it and pretty much ruin your sub. Trust me on this onefrom experence. I just moved mine around futher so it opens up as far as I can get it to go. I note your in a low Bortle area, so it may not matter, but for suckers like me imaging in town, it might be helpful. Like Monty Python said......every sperm is scared and so is every sub. 🔭🤣
Nice overview Nico, but I was wondering, does the falcon rotator rotates itself ?? My primalucelab Arco rotator stays in place and only the inner part rotates
To be sure how cable is moving try to use cable chain tracker. For example IGUS produce very small sizes (e2 Mico or easy chain). There are alson cheapee version on internet but they can stack so you need to move them before instal.
Can you explain further about using cable chain tracker? I’ve never heard of these until I saw you post. Looks like an interesting idea but they appear to only allow movement along one axis. How would these work with a GEM that is rotating along two different axis?
Why go through the hassle of using a computer to turn the focuser to match the grub screw on the telescope focuser, when you can just turn the knob on the telescope to match the focuser? Of course, once it is connected and locked down, then you always have to use the computer/phone to move the focuser.
During the focuser section you said that you need to spin the shaft on the focuser until it lines up. But why didn't you just spin the focuser until it lined up with the shaft instead?
Nice getting it all together and getting results. Can't believe how many people are just now opting for a Seestar or Dwarf III. Do you know how the images compare to a full rig like this?
There are still several limitations that would stop me from using a Seestar or Dwarf for my personal projects. Those limitations may not be important to others, but they include: limited compositional control with a small sensor and no rotation, files aren't big enough to print bigger than 4x6" or maybe 8x10", the limits of alt-az mounting and a small color sensor means severe limitations on the difficulty of the objects one can capture. I'm interested in obscure narrowband objects and even discoveries, both of which the current smart scopes aren't ideal for.
@@NebulaPhotos Thanks, comments like this absolutely stop me going down the easy route. My rigs still evolving and I'm currently viewing dedicated Astro cameras rather than my Canon, but they seem a bit pricey any advise with camera give best results for the least bucks?
@@philluvschips3787 I'd go with ZWO, specifically the 533 or 2600 depending on your budget. Personally, I think usually the 2600 (APS-C sized) sensor is worth saving for, but some people are okay with the smaller square sensor of the 533. Depends what kinds of objects and framing you like most.
@@philluvschips3787 Altair should be good too. I've never used them, but I've used similar, and as long as you can get all the drivers working with your system, there isn't much of a difference between the brands, they all use the same sensors and offer similar specs.
Neat! Ive got my rig mostly fully automated. But i have to stay near it in case of weather. I do need a second camera to keep an eye on it in case i need to put it in a specific position to align though. And of course to put the solar filter on when i image the sun. Id like to be able to add flaps to be able to switch between solar filter, dust cover, or light panel, but that may be a bit much for my little scope lol. When the weather is nice forndays at a time though I just leave everything out, and have to do minimal work to get aligned again.
Oh and since the 4se doesn't have an off the shelf focuser, I built my own. I'm planning to upgrade the arduino for it and add more features, including relays to power cycle the mount if need be. I love tinkering with gadgets! 🤓
Interesting stuff, Nico. I'll be glad to see next week's video when you upload that. Astrophotography has gotten expensive, though. But, $8,850 plus for that rig? I can't imagine what it would be like if I wanted a larger telescope. However, the FRA500 is a quint, and I could get a 140mm Askar triplet for the same price, although it would probably have to replace the reducer with a reducer/flattener, although for a 0.8 reducer/flattener, it would only be about another $50. But, either way, a lot of money. But, if I had a place to put it, and the money to buy it, I just might. LOL
Yeah, it is expensive, but having been in the hobby for 10 years. I've slowly accumulated rather than ever spending that much at once. If I was on a stricter budget, I'd go for a one shot color camera. The filter wheel and full set of filters adds a lot of cost. Depends on your goals of course.
@@NebulaPhotos don't get me wrong, I don't begrudge you being able to afford this, I think it's wonderful. Recently, in the last ten years or so, things have gotten pretty rough for me. I lost my home, car, job and a lot of my A/P rig (which wasn't that good to begin with). When I decided I wanted to try out A/P, I bought an AVX, a 6" R.C., an Orion guider, and some other stuff. I got told that an R.C. was not the way to get started, and I ended up with an Williams Optic ZenithStar 72. And then my world came crashing down. When I was seriously looking to get into A/P, after the initial buying of the wrong stuff, I was told $4,000 to do it right. Today, IF I was starting over, this is what I would be looking at, and recommending to others. iOptron HEM27A with iPolar, Case and Carbon Fiber tripod. $2,300 I really like the concept of the Askar V 60mm and 80mm combination scope. $1,700 Need power, and I like the Apertura All Night PSU. $550 Like you, would also be looking forward to the future, so a Pegasus Astro Ultimate Powerbox v3 and power supply: $735 I was going to use a Sony DSLR, but there turned out to be a lot of drawbacks to that. I could purchase a modified Canon and use software for that, but it’s just easier to get a dedicated Astrocamera. ZWO ASI2600MC-Duo, at least to start with. Later on, I can get a Mono camera. $2,000 Of course, you need filters, really. A Dual Band filter for Ha and OIII would be the place to start. Optolong makes a 2” Dual Band L-Ultimate, but it’s 3nm. While that would be wonderful for the non-Duo camera, where a dedicated guide scope and camera were used, I think I’d rather use the slightly less expensive 7nm L-eXtreme for $310. I've seen reports where the 3nm made guiding more difficult on lower intensity stars, so 7nm for better guiding. Of course, you need a bunch of the other accessories that aren’t really dedicated to A/P, per se. Apertura 2” mirror diagonal $150. I can get a couple of Apertura eyepieces, a 10, 20, 26 and 32mm Super Wides for about $380, most are 2” eyepieces. Add an additional $130 to that for a Baader 25mm Illuminated guiding eyepiece. Add $100 for dew heater strips. I like that MeLe Mini PC you showed, I’d probably get one of those, 16GB and 512GB for $270. So, when I started to get into this a few years ago, they said $3,500-$4,000. This list has more than doubled that! My list here, which isn’t really a whole lot to start into A/P with, is over $8,600 before taxes and shipping. Time to hit up the Classified section of Cloudy Nights! Reality check just sucks, big time!
Hi Nico, there were a few places where I got a little hmmmmmmmm. First off, the new losmandy dovetail is pointing in the wrong direction if you want correct balance. You therefore might need risers for the tube tings.🤔 (Ok, just saw your remote installation in the latest video. I guess the scope was not badly back heavy) Secondly, to attach the focuser you should not need to connect the pc. Just screw the tube a little out, put the notch in the correct position and when everything is connected you set the limits in the software. No need to over complicate things.
Hey Mark, addressed these elsewhere, but I’ll do so here too. The weight of having more of the losmandy plate out front corrects the balance issue I had with the smaller plate. It maybe didn’t come across, but it also went further back than the small plate. I can’t have it go too far back or it would interfere with the filter wheel. The focus cube tube requires two flat surfaces to match with grub screws while a 90 degree bracket lines up with the bottom of the focuser. I get you could do it the other way and not connect the focuser to a pc, but this way made more sense to me and is how they advise in the manual for the focuser.
@@NebulaPhotos Hi Nico, thanks for the fast reply. I actually amended my comment as I saw your setup in the latest video at "Starfront". Cool little setup with lots of potential. Best of luck with that. I wish I had the possibility to have my setup in a remote site.
Was the network power-strip really necessary? The V2 powerbox has power pass through, I thought, and the mele computer can be configured to auto turn on in the bios. Just seems like it’d be easier to just have the one power cable running to the powerbox and let it handle all the distribution.
The idea I had was I’d be able to power cycle the PC independently or even turn it off for periods in the hot summer months. I do have it on auto power on so as soon as it gets power it turns on without having to touch the button. You are right though, probably not necessary.
That makes sense. I was also wondering if maybe Task Scheduler could implement a wake/sleep schedule so the pc could be powered down during the day and cut back on as the sun sets. If this is possible then it could be a work around without the need to power cycle. There is also the Wake-on-LAN config within the bios. I need to learn more about that feature. Either way the redundancy doesn’t hurt!
I bet buckeye stargazer could create a relief pocket or cut out in that mounting bracket to hold the tracker and it would be sandwiched between the computer and the bracket and be hidden.
Someone else in the comments calculated it to be $8,500 (if all bought new), and the hosting fee at the place starfront.space that I'll be showing next week is $200/month for a telescope this size. You definitely don't have to spend $8,500 for a remote ready rig. This is just an example of the one I'll be using for my specific goals. If I was trying to cut costs I could do so by going one shot color which would mean dropping the filter wheel and filters. I could also drop the rotator and drop the flats panel. Those changes alone would about halve the price, and you could get it down further with a smaller telescope/camera/mount.
Is it a common thing in Canada to be able to send your equipment to a dark sky sight and someone there will set it up for you? Is it going to an observatory? Or maybe a friend's house? I take it that as you need a power source it's not going to a field in the middle of nowhere. If this really is an option, to send your set up to a dark sky sight, maybe you could do a video on where these places are. What are your options for the amount of equipment you can send? Do you get to choose where on the site your kit is positioned? Is it a first come first served basis? How many rigs can these places accept?
There are many remote observatories for amateurs across the world. Almost all of them work so that you rent a pier in a large shared roll-off roof building. There are many in the USA, several in Spain, Chile, Namibia, Africa. Not sure about Canada. I wouldn't think that would be a good place for one as it's too cloudy.I will be covering the one I picked that is located in Central Texas starfront.space/ in next week's video, and I think it will answer most if not all of your other questions.
I am also interested in doing a fully automated system, and yes, the homing feature is a must. that sets the bar pretty high as to which mounts can be used. I have been thinking though, that it might be possible to accomplish the same thing using plate solving, but I haven't worked out all the details. good presentation, thanks.
It should be possible. The worry is if somehow the mount loses power when the telescope is pointed at a wall (during a slew). In that case, you might have to use cameras pointed at the telescopes in the remote observatory to understand how the scope is pointed and manually slew to the sky before you can platesolve and get it back on track.
@@NebulaPhotos That is the problem. which way should the scope move to "try" to find the sky. Not so difficult for an Alt/AZ as the altitude will never be below the horizon. But EQs, well.... Perhaps a "fake" homing device that can be put on an axis that gives an approximate angle of altitude. I guess a device could be made to be ASCOM compliant.
This one is about $8500 for the rig (if all bought new) and $200 /month for hosting it at Starfront (starfront.space) which I'll talk about next week. You don't need to spend that much on the rig for remote though, it's just what fits my needs/goals. You could save money by going with a OSC camera so you wouldn't need 7 filters and a filter wheel. The Flats Panel and Rotator are also very optional items that you can do without.
It seems like such a huge disconnect from nature and astronomy. It's bad enough that many astrophotographers have never even done visual astronomy, but now people are not even being outside with their telescopes. They're just sitting inside their cozy sheltered home in front of a computer, but for only a short time. Most of the time they are just sleeping while the system is doing the work. It doesn't seem like fun. Just mindless laziness.
Yet, we all enjoy the wonders that get captured by all these mindless lazy astrophotographers... 🤭. This reminds me of "Annie Hall" final scene: - I thought of that old joke, you know, this- this-this guy goes to a psychiatrist and says, "Doc, uh, my brother's crazy. He thinks he's a chicken." And, uh, the doctor says, "Well, why don't you turn him in?" And the guy says, "I would, but I need the eggs."
Try being outside in the middle of winter when you suffer from arthritis, from experience I can tell you fun it ain't, especially when you come to pack your gear away at the end of the session. Astro photography is a hobby in its own right, don't forget many professional astronomers rarely if ever look directly through a telescope. Many astro photographers actually get their enjoyment processing the final image, some don't even own a scope they just download the raw data. There is no right way to enjoy the wonders of the night sky, it's all down to personal choice.
@@rexsterling7346 I'm not a professional, never said I was, in fact I'm not even that good at it. But I do understand that not everyone enjoys doing astronomy in the same way that I do. We are not all professionals but like them some of us do spend a lot of our time in front of a computer screen. Just for the record I do still like to have an hour or so just looking at the sky through binoculars while my automated rigs do their thing in the background, Just because people can leave their automated rigs and go to bed doesn't necessarily mean that they all do.
I live in Ohio. Here, we have awfully humid summers with unbearable evenings filled with mosquitoes. We have frigid winters in which I don’t enjoy sitting. However, I do love the night sky. When I have opportunities to image, which is infrequent at my location (trees, clouds, rain, wind, smoke), I will happily image by any means comfortable. Now that I have a pier reserved at Starfront Observatories, I’ll be able to enjoy spending the evenings inside with my daughter and sleeping while my telescope is working for me. Additionally, I have a full-time job, so staying up until morning isn’t an option for me at this stage in my life. I can still go outside, look up, and enjoy my local sky. If that’s lazy, then I’m happily lazy.
Instead of connecting the focus cube to power why don't you just rotate the focus knob on the other side of the telescope? I don't think the rotator will move, my PegasusAstro Falcon is stationary while the filter wheel rotates which in turn rotates the camera.
I could see doing that way if you were to put the coupler on the focus cube first. The Pegasus instructions suggest doing it this way.
Yes, sorry I got mixed up - the rotator doesn’t move only the gear behind it in the image train.
I was thinking the same thing at first. But the real reason is to get the flat to line up in a position where you can tighten the grub screw with an allen key.
Great setup but make sure the flat panel lid doesn't block your guidescope when fully open. Looking forward to the images you will produce out of this.
Very cool!
Great video Nico. Enough to detail to follow along, without doing a deep dive. One thing I missed was the approximate cost of the fully remote rig. Will there a be a follow up with the setup in N.I.N.A or SG Pro?
Good video. I’m really glad you chose the ioptron gem45, because I have the cem40. And when I first started, I was lost in space with the tech, and really not even familiar with a laptop either. I am now, yrs. later, able to operate it with the hand held device. But most of the time it sits under a plastic cover and gets little use. Astrophotography is still a goal and I also have a Sony A7ii camera ready to go. I hope I’m not too far behind for your channels current curriculum.
This is a great vid Nico, you have given all the necessary info required for anyone to understand remote operation. I like the fact that this can be employed in any type of remote situation, like home observatories, or even for mobile astrophotography, making it easier to assemble and operate quickly other than mount levelling and polar alignment of course. Thank you for the time to make this 👍🏽
This was a terrific video, Nico, and I really liked that you used equipment from all different manufacturers and really focused on more economical solutions. I've haven't done this and I don't have any telescopes in remote locations so forgive me if this is a naive question, but would you also have to think about dew heaters and perhaps thermistors to control it/them? I know in the winter (in VT) I have dew heaters all over the place, even around my autofocuser, guide cam, and even my ASIAir, but I set the heat settings manually before I start my sessions. I wonder, too, if all remote telescope locations (and there seem to be more popping up every day) are created equally, and what sorts of things to look for prior to selecting one to host your telescope(s).
Excellent video Nico, thanks for making and I learned alot. One question, given this scope has a flattener inbuilt, and lets say you didnt opt for a reducer, then back focus isn't a problem and you could opt for an OAG setup too, with a bigger image train. Probably more relevant to larger scopes where OAG has more value. Also, from my research, if you do use a reducer/flatenner, it seems possible to put the rotator BEFORE the reducer/flattener also? Thanks!
Yes, you could add an OAG if not using the reducer.
Putting the rotator before the reducer or flattener would be a case by case thing. With this scope you definitely could NOT put the rotator before the reducer. From all the different scopes and flatteners I’ve tried, I’d say that would work with a small minority, maybe 10-20%. It has to do with how the flattener is designed, some of them come apart and do have space and connection threads before the glass elements, but I wouldn’t count on it.
$7500 dollars (plus filters). A bit out of normal people's price range
Very true…I have 15k cdn in one rig alone 😯
Yeah I don't think this is a build for a normal person hahaha
Your videos are awesome! I just started this hobby and thanks to you captured some great eclipse images. This is my long term goal, to have fully automated rig but probably use StellarMate Pro to control everything.
I wish you luck. But as a retired electronics technician this setup looks complicated enough to cause reliability problems. Complicated Dream setups have a tendency to turn into nightmares. Too many unsecured plugs with small conductor wires... Simplifying things would be more reliable. Enjoy! -mike
How would you go about simplifying the setup?
@nicholaslowe3185 This is for reliability, as most won;t Simplify their Dream...
I'd use better wire for all USB cables, solder directly to the PC Boards with pigtails hooked to better connectors that screw together and are shielded, like Shielded gold plated DB-9's, and make matching interconnect cables labeled for what connectors match... A to A, B to B...
Do the same for any other push in connectors using different Shielded Screw Together connectors or DB’s with different number of pins… H to H, G to G…
Do the same for all Power Distribution using heavier wire and better Screw Together connectors…
All Cabling cut to proper lengths without excess that can come loose and snag anywhere, and use double sided Velcro strips as wire stabilizers for fast easy swapping out as needed… (the military and NASA secure wires for reliability)
Use a better quality more powerful active cooling computer (its not Necessary but over power rating equipment used more gently IS more reliable, as active cooling is better and more reliable than passive)…
Assemble and test at home for several nights...
Build a custom over cushioned crate and send assembled to be mounted, powered and internet’d (I’d probably use expanding foam halves / pieces that custom form and hols firmly) …
Send redundant cables and equipment (especially a second setup and tested computer) for fast swap out troubleshooting and repairs, unless you want to be paying for & wasting observing time while any problem gets figured out and fixed.
Remember YOU aren’t going to be there for quick fixes and the on site personnel are of an Unknown Quality for taking Your Place.
More would come to mind during assembly and initial testing. This is off the top of my head. 🍺🍻
@nicholaslowe3185 Reliability since most won't simplify their dream,,,
I'd use better wire for all USB cables, solder directly to the PC Boards with pigtails hooked to better connectors that screw together and are shielded, like Shielded gold plated DB-9's, and make matching interconnect cables labeled for what connectors match... A to A, B to B...
Do the same for any other push in connectors using different Shielded Screw Together connectors or DB’s with different number of pins… H to H, G to G…
Do the same for all Power Distribution using heavier wire and better Screw Together connectors…
All Cabling cut to proper lengths without excess that can come loose and snag anywhere, and use double sided Velcro strips as wire stabilizers for fast easy swapping out as needed… (the military and NASA secure wires for reliability)
Use a better quality more powerful active cooling computer (its not Necessary but over power rating equipment used more gently IS more reliable, as active cooling is better and more reliable than passive)…
Assemble and test at home for several nights...
Build a custom over cushioned crate and send assembled to be mounted, powered and internet’d (I’d probably use expanding foam halves / pieces that custom form and hols firmly) …
Send redundant cables and equipment (especially a second setup and tested computer) for fast swap out troubleshooting and repairs, unless you want to be paying for & wasting observing time while any problem gets figured out and fixed.
Remember YOU aren’t going to be there for quick fixes and the on site personnel are of an Unknown Quality for taking Your Place.
More would come to mind during assembly and initial per shipment testing, this is off the top of my head.
Actually it's not complicated it just complicated to someone who isn't familiar, once you do this for Year's you know what to expect. I have automated to the point were it has a schedule to start it self and stop every day with out me having to do anything. I program it to do everything on its own. You have to test it out make sure there's no issues. The only imput it needs is the schedule times and the target once I give it that I don't have to do anything for a whole month. i just check and I'm like oh wow I got 100 hours of data feels like cheating cuz I'm not doing nothing besides put time of schedule. it finds the target and all that on its own
Love the power strip. We use the same one in our university’s remote observatory. It’s been the most reliable part of our system. 6:00
Hey, Nico, I'm confused: if the whole setup is back-heavy, shouldn't the bottom plate be set to protrude to the back instead of the front?
The plate itself is very heavy so having lots of it towards the front adds a kind of counterweight for all the stuff in the back. It also extends further back than the original plate which was only in the middle of the scope.
@@NebulaPhotos Wow... I wasn't expecting that additional piece of information. Thanks for the clarification!
Awesome vid, man. I set up my mid size refractor for remote back yard/automated. I never got to the point of adding a focuser, but had a lot of fun\headaches, with configuring the mini PC, and adding some extra memory, as well as the "interesting" time with cabling, and 12V USB power port. When I get the time, I will refer back to this vid, for the 3D printed fabricators you mentioned, and possibly adding the rotator, and flats panel. I configured everything onto a Losmandy plate, so I could swap it out with my larger refractor and C11, though I never actually used it with with the other scopes. I love your technical correct and simple explanations. You are a good explainer, and I am very glad you transitioned to full time paid status in amateur astronomy. That is not an easy thing to do.
Thank you Nico for the video! I am planning to put my rig into an observatory in the center of Texas as well. A question about your computer, is it on at all times? I wonder what you switch on first, I am aware of the internet power switch from Digital Loggers, but once you switch on your computer, somehow you need to put the "On" button as well (may be WOL?). Thanks!
Great video! Instead of plugging the focuser and turning it via the PC, I would just turn the fine focus knob to line up the flat on the focus cube 😁
maybe I'm not understanding this, but if your back focus isn't 55mm, can't you compensate for this by just extending the focuser in or out a bit more?
Ah sorry, it's a confusing term. What is meant by 'backfocus' in this case is the spacing between the end of the reducer and camera sensor. It's a separate issue from 'focus'. You can focus, but if your 'backfocus' or 'back spacing' is off, your stars in the corners will no longer be round.
@@NebulaPhotos I get it now. Thank you for explaining this, Nico.
Thanks for the vid! I had similar issues with my FRA400. I used the 300mm losmandy plate and needed to add a riser(thanks prima luce) due to the ZWO EAF needing more clearance. The balance is very far toward the rear, yes... Clear skies!
I have the Pegasus Falcon Rotator V2 myself, and it almost feels like using cheat-codes. What a QoL-improvement to my rig.
I quit watching these videos. I just look at great pics online of deep sky objects. I am not sure why I would buy 10K worth of telescope and hours of turning images when I can just get them online. I love a good hobby but this looks like a huge sink hole.
Very expensive gear in this video. For us non-TH-camr mere mortals anyway.
Nico you are one of the best "explainers" out there. Detailed enough to be able to replicate without putting me to sleep watching you unbox and put screws in...etc :) Love your videos! It was great meeting you at Neaf :)
Thank you! It was great to meet so many people IRL at NEAF - I hope to go every year.
Thank you.
Love seeing more videos from you!
sweet
Very informative. Question on the PC mounting plate. I'm also considering sending my Askar with a Mele PC. The link gets you to their website but none of the MiniPC options make sense. Which one did you get? Thank you!
Ah, sorry, I got it from a friend and he informed me it was a custom job from BuckeyeStargazer. I’ll update the description with this info
In that configuration wouldn’t the auto flat field panel block the guide scope when imaging? This video is very informative. I’m putting together a remote setup to be shipped to Starfront observatory very soon.
I can open it to any angle so my first thought was just to open it to 90 degrees in which case it wouldn't block the guide scope, but Bray pointed out that increases the swing arm of the rig and would act as a wind sail, so he ziptied it with the motor on the side, so that I can open it all the way without blocking the guide scope.
When installing the focuser, is there a reason you powered it on and advanced the motor to align with the knob rather than just turning the back manual focus knob until IT aligned with the focuser?
Should work either way. I did it that way as that is how it was suggested to do it in the manual for the focuser.
Great setup!! I have the same scope but with the Primalucelab SESTO senso focuser and the Arco 2” work flawlessly. The flat panel you have is just the only thing I need for fully automated set up.
so weird. I've just spent a night setting up a second rig (FRA 400, Mele PC and Pegasus Powerbox). I had no idea about those Buckeyestargazer adapters. Thank you! I mean you've made my choice selection much worse, but thanks anyway :)
Hello Nico: Could you please make a video review of the Explore Scientific GO-TO mounts? I have two of them and I not been able to make them work yet. If you can make a video of how to use them, polar aligment and everything. Thanks!
Very nice Niko. Won't the flat panel block the guider when it's open?
Thought the same thing. That is a problem
I just rotated the flat panel 90 degrees and it is no longer an issue.
The Wanderer Astro software lets you open/close it to any angle, so I was opening it to an angle where it didn’t block the guider. But I have basically no wind. For the final installation, it’s attached on the side so it can open all the way and that way won’t catch any wind gusts
Interesting video.. while we don’t use the same scope or mount, I found many of the same products for my observatory such as the digital loggers AC controlled supply, the Pegasus power box, and you’re the only other person I know who’s purchased the wander Astro light panel. I met Dan at NEAF and was attracted to the light panel due to the price as well. I simply could not put down $1000 for one of the other options.
Great Video considering Im setting a system up for the same remote site. I do wish you had gone into the configuring the minipc and digital logger for use for remote. Im not a network guy so this aspect is foreign to me. I did appreciate the tiny bit about changing the bios of the minipc to boot up when it gets power.
Can you put the rotator on the other way around and on the other side of the filter wheel? That way only the camera rotates. Also, there are reusable zip ties.... For your "flats flap".
How do you determine when to use extension tubes when adding a camera?
Usually, you can just use the ones that come with the camera to reach 55mm backspacing from corrector to sensor which is the most common backspacing for telescope correctors (field flatteners, reducers, coma correctors, etc.) And if your telescope is a quad and the corrector is built-in, you don't need precise backspacing, but 55mm will still usually put you in a good spot for the focus range of the telescope. This is true of most refractors and Newtonian reflectors. Catadioptrics like SCTs and RCs often have more available backspacing, so definitely check with the manual for your telescope.
Celestron CGX has home position sensor and it was life-saver for very long time.
Nice setup I really need to get myself a flat panel flipper.
You matched the colour scheme of the main scope and guide scope, even though there won't be anyone there to see it, but couldn't match the colour of the elecrical tape which marks the position of the mounting rings? Shame!
😂 I think I even had red tape
@@NebulaPhotos Or black
Packaging? Shipping? I hope there is a follow up video, I can't wait to see the poor sod at the other end that has this turn up on his doorstep and then has to put it all together, along with the tripod and mount. I can't wait.
A couple tips I mentioned you may have missed: 1. If you have the original packaging your gear came with, use it. 2. If sending to a remote observatory where they install, I’d recommend also sending photos of the assembled rig, labels, and tape marks.
From watching them install systems at Starfront this week, I’d say they are pretty good at figuring things out, but guidance and timesavers are always appreciated.
@@NebulaPhotos So, indeed, when you sent it, you sent it as multiple pieces? I was going to suggest either a local FedEx or UPS store. You'd have to check, but some of them have foam machines where you put expanding foam in bags, and then set the telescope, fully assembled on top, while it's still expanding. Then, once it's in place, you do another set for the top over the telescope. That way, you get a custom box packing and the rig is still completely built.
I'm so sorry, I was being flippant. You obviously have better delivery people than we do in the UK. I've seen things that'd make your hair curl.
You don’t ship a tripod, they have custom made piers. I’m seriously considering getting a scope at Bray’s remote observatory, just trying to decide if I ship my gear or drive down the 3000km from Canada and hand deliver it
I have the wanderer flat panel on my SW ED80. If your planning on using it in a forward open position, meaning pointing away from the scope, be very aware of any stay light, the panel will capture it and pretty much ruin your sub. Trust me on this onefrom experence. I just moved mine around futher so it opens up as far as I can get it to go. I note your in a low Bortle area, so it may not matter, but for suckers like me imaging in town, it might be helpful. Like Monty Python said......every sperm is scared and so is every sub. 🔭🤣
Good call. In the final installation, I did mount it off-center so it opens all the way up.
Nice overview Nico, but I was wondering, does the falcon rotator rotates itself ?? My primalucelab Arco rotator stays in place and only the inner part rotates
I misspoke. Only the inner part rotates
To be sure how cable is moving try to use cable chain tracker. For example IGUS produce very small sizes (e2 Mico or easy chain). There are alson cheapee version on internet but they can stack so you need to move them before instal.
Can you explain further about using cable chain tracker? I’ve never heard of these until I saw you post. Looks like an interesting idea but they appear to only allow movement along one axis. How would these work with a GEM that is rotating along two different axis?
Can i mount this set up on a Skywatchers GTI
No, too heavy, but I plan to make a video about suitable telescopes for the GTi.
@@NebulaPhotos 🙌 i will check it out ! Merci ☺️ i plan to buy a Skywatchers with an Askar Fra300.
Neat.
I c u leave these simple 1 word replies on a lot of video from a lot of youtubers. r u a b o t ?
You might have already said this and if you did I do apologize Sir but is there some kind of automatic filter changer?
Ah yes, I glossed over it. I'm using a 7 position filter wheel. It's USB powered and controlled from my software on the mini PC.
what is the total cost of the kit?
Why go through the hassle of using a computer to turn the focuser to match the grub screw on the telescope focuser, when you can just turn the knob on the telescope to match the focuser? Of course, once it is connected and locked down, then you always have to use the computer/phone to move the focuser.
That's done to match the flat section of the shaft on the focuser to the grub screw.
During the focuser section you said that you need to spin the shaft on the focuser until it lines up. But why didn't you just spin the focuser until it lined up with the shaft instead?
I was following the instruction manual that came with the focuser, but yes I would think working in the opposite way would work.
Nice getting it all together and getting results. Can't believe how many people are just now opting for a Seestar or Dwarf III. Do you know how the images compare to a full rig like this?
There are still several limitations that would stop me from using a Seestar or Dwarf for my personal projects. Those limitations may not be important to others, but they include: limited compositional control with a small sensor and no rotation, files aren't big enough to print bigger than 4x6" or maybe 8x10", the limits of alt-az mounting and a small color sensor means severe limitations on the difficulty of the objects one can capture. I'm interested in obscure narrowband objects and even discoveries, both of which the current smart scopes aren't ideal for.
@@NebulaPhotos Thanks, comments like this absolutely stop me going down the easy route. My rigs still evolving and I'm currently viewing dedicated Astro cameras rather than my Canon, but they seem a bit pricey any advise with camera give best results for the least bucks?
@@philluvschips3787 I'd go with ZWO, specifically the 533 or 2600 depending on your budget. Personally, I think usually the 2600 (APS-C sized) sensor is worth saving for, but some people are okay with the smaller square sensor of the 533. Depends what kinds of objects and framing you like most.
@@NebulaPhotos Thanks the ZWO's are on my radar, but I may have to go Altair for the moment.
@@philluvschips3787 Altair should be good too. I've never used them, but I've used similar, and as long as you can get all the drivers working with your system, there isn't much of a difference between the brands, they all use the same sensors and offer similar specs.
Neat! Ive got my rig mostly fully automated. But i have to stay near it in case of weather. I do need a second camera to keep an eye on it in case i need to put it in a specific position to align though. And of course to put the solar filter on when i image the sun.
Id like to be able to add flaps to be able to switch between solar filter, dust cover, or light panel, but that may be a bit much for my little scope lol.
When the weather is nice forndays at a time though I just leave everything out, and have to do minimal work to get aligned again.
Oh and since the 4se doesn't have an off the shelf focuser, I built my own. I'm planning to upgrade the arduino for it and add more features, including relays to power cycle the mount if need be. I love tinkering with gadgets! 🤓
get a telegizmo 365 cover, I got one, and I have left mine out for months now. Rain or shine.
Interesting stuff, Nico. I'll be glad to see next week's video when you upload that. Astrophotography has gotten expensive, though. But, $8,850 plus for that rig? I can't imagine what it would be like if I wanted a larger telescope. However, the FRA500 is a quint, and I could get a 140mm Askar triplet for the same price, although it would probably have to replace the reducer with a reducer/flattener, although for a 0.8 reducer/flattener, it would only be about another $50. But, either way, a lot of money. But, if I had a place to put it, and the money to buy it, I just might. LOL
Yeah, it is expensive, but having been in the hobby for 10 years. I've slowly accumulated rather than ever spending that much at once. If I was on a stricter budget, I'd go for a one shot color camera. The filter wheel and full set of filters adds a lot of cost. Depends on your goals of course.
@@NebulaPhotos don't get me wrong, I don't begrudge you being able to afford this, I think it's wonderful. Recently, in the last ten years or so, things have gotten pretty rough for me. I lost my home, car, job and a lot of my A/P rig (which wasn't that good to begin with). When I decided I wanted to try out A/P, I bought an AVX, a 6" R.C., an Orion guider, and some other stuff. I got told that an R.C. was not the way to get started, and I ended up with an Williams Optic ZenithStar 72. And then my world came crashing down.
When I was seriously looking to get into A/P, after the initial buying of the wrong stuff, I was told $4,000 to do it right.
Today, IF I was starting over, this is what I would be looking at, and recommending to others.
iOptron HEM27A with iPolar, Case and Carbon Fiber tripod. $2,300
I really like the concept of the Askar V 60mm and 80mm combination scope. $1,700
Need power, and I like the Apertura All Night PSU. $550
Like you, would also be looking forward to the future, so a Pegasus Astro Ultimate Powerbox v3 and power supply: $735
I was going to use a Sony DSLR, but there turned out to be a lot of drawbacks to that. I could purchase a modified Canon and use software for that, but it’s just easier to get a dedicated Astrocamera. ZWO ASI2600MC-Duo, at least to start with. Later on, I can get a Mono camera. $2,000
Of course, you need filters, really. A Dual Band filter for Ha and OIII would be the place to start. Optolong makes a 2” Dual Band L-Ultimate, but it’s 3nm. While that would be wonderful for the non-Duo camera, where a dedicated guide scope and camera were used, I think I’d rather use the slightly less expensive 7nm L-eXtreme for $310. I've seen reports where the 3nm made guiding more difficult on lower intensity stars, so 7nm for better guiding.
Of course, you need a bunch of the other accessories that aren’t really dedicated to A/P, per se.
Apertura 2” mirror diagonal $150. I can get a couple of Apertura eyepieces, a 10, 20, 26 and 32mm Super Wides for about $380, most are 2” eyepieces. Add an additional $130 to that for a Baader 25mm Illuminated guiding eyepiece.
Add $100 for dew heater strips.
I like that MeLe Mini PC you showed, I’d probably get one of those, 16GB and 512GB for $270.
So, when I started to get into this a few years ago, they said $3,500-$4,000. This list has more than doubled that! My list here, which isn’t really a whole lot to start into A/P with, is over $8,600 before taxes and shipping.
Time to hit up the Classified section of Cloudy Nights!
Reality check just sucks, big time!
Hi Nico, there were a few places where I got a little hmmmmmmmm. First off, the new losmandy dovetail is pointing in the wrong direction if you want correct balance. You therefore might need risers for the tube tings.🤔 (Ok, just saw your remote installation in the latest video. I guess the scope was not badly back heavy) Secondly, to attach the focuser you should not need to connect the pc. Just screw the tube a little out, put the notch in the correct position and when everything is connected you set the limits in the software. No need to over complicate things.
Hey Mark, addressed these elsewhere, but I’ll do so here too. The weight of having more of the losmandy plate out front corrects the balance issue I had with the smaller plate. It maybe didn’t come across, but it also went further back than the small plate. I can’t have it go too far back or it would interfere with the filter wheel. The focus cube tube requires two flat surfaces to match with grub screws while a 90 degree bracket lines up with the bottom of the focuser. I get you could do it the other way and not connect the focuser to a pc, but this way made more sense to me and is how they advise in the manual for the focuser.
@@NebulaPhotos Hi Nico, thanks for the fast reply. I actually amended my comment as I saw your setup in the latest video at "Starfront". Cool little setup with lots of potential. Best of luck with that. I wish I had the possibility to have my setup in a remote site.
Was the network power-strip really necessary? The V2 powerbox has power pass through, I thought, and the mele computer can be configured to auto turn on in the bios. Just seems like it’d be easier to just have the one power cable running to the powerbox and let it handle all the distribution.
The idea I had was I’d be able to power cycle the PC independently or even turn it off for periods in the hot summer months. I do have it on auto power on so as soon as it gets power it turns on without having to touch the button. You are right though, probably not necessary.
That makes sense. I was also wondering if maybe Task Scheduler could implement a wake/sleep schedule so the pc could be powered down during the day and cut back on as the sun sets. If this is possible then it could be a work around without the need to power cycle.
There is also the Wake-on-LAN config within the bios. I need to learn more about that feature.
Either way the redundancy doesn’t hurt!
Stick the airtag to the bottom of the power box.
I bet buckeye stargazer could create a relief pocket or cut out in that mounting bracket to hold the tracker and it would be sandwiched between the computer and the bracket and be hidden.
Great video. Could you give us an indication of the overall cost of your remote rig, which is less than the hosting fees? Thanks.
Someone else in the comments calculated it to be $8,500 (if all bought new), and the hosting fee at the place starfront.space that I'll be showing next week is $200/month for a telescope this size. You definitely don't have to spend $8,500 for a remote ready rig. This is just an example of the one I'll be using for my specific goals. If I was trying to cut costs I could do so by going one shot color which would mean dropping the filter wheel and filters. I could also drop the rotator and drop the flats panel. Those changes alone would about halve the price, and you could get it down further with a smaller telescope/camera/mount.
@@NebulaPhotos OK, that is reasonable based on what you are designing for.
Is it a common thing in Canada to be able to send your equipment to a dark sky sight and someone there will set it up for you? Is it going to an observatory? Or maybe a friend's house? I take it that as you need a power source it's not going to a field in the middle of nowhere.
If this really is an option, to send your set up to a dark sky sight, maybe you could do a video on where these places are. What are your options for the amount of equipment you can send? Do you get to choose where on the site your kit is positioned? Is it a first come first served basis? How many rigs can these places accept?
There are many remote observatories for amateurs across the world. Almost all of them work so that you rent a pier in a large shared roll-off roof building. There are many in the USA, several in Spain, Chile, Namibia, Africa. Not sure about Canada. I wouldn't think that would be a good place for one as it's too cloudy.I will be covering the one I picked that is located in Central Texas starfront.space/ in next week's video, and I think it will answer most if not all of your other questions.
@@NebulaPhotos Excellent, thank you.
I am also interested in doing a fully automated system, and yes, the homing feature is a must. that sets the bar pretty high as to which mounts can be used. I have been thinking though, that it might be possible to accomplish the same thing using plate solving, but I haven't worked out all the details. good presentation, thanks.
It should be possible. The worry is if somehow the mount loses power when the telescope is pointed at a wall (during a slew). In that case, you might have to use cameras pointed at the telescopes in the remote observatory to understand how the scope is pointed and manually slew to the sky before you can platesolve and get it back on track.
@@NebulaPhotos That is the problem. which way should the scope move to "try" to find the sky. Not so difficult for an Alt/AZ as the altitude will never be below the horizon. But EQs, well.... Perhaps a "fake" homing device that can be put on an axis that gives an approximate angle of altitude. I guess a device could be made to be ASCOM compliant.
How much money the whole thing?
This one is about $8500 for the rig (if all bought new) and $200 /month for hosting it at Starfront (starfront.space) which I'll talk about next week. You don't need to spend that much on the rig for remote though, it's just what fits my needs/goals. You could save money by going with a OSC camera so you wouldn't need 7 filters and a filter wheel. The Flats Panel and Rotator are also very optional items that you can do without.
Nice Setup!!
It seems like such a huge disconnect from nature and astronomy. It's bad enough that many astrophotographers have never even done visual astronomy, but now people are not even being outside with their telescopes. They're just sitting inside their cozy sheltered home in front of a computer, but for only a short time. Most of the time they are just sleeping while the system is doing the work. It doesn't seem like fun. Just mindless laziness.
Yet, we all enjoy the wonders that get captured by all these mindless lazy astrophotographers... 🤭.
This reminds me of "Annie Hall" final scene:
- I thought of that old joke, you know, this- this-this guy goes to a psychiatrist and says, "Doc, uh, my brother's crazy. He thinks he's a chicken." And, uh, the doctor says, "Well, why don't you turn him in?" And the guy says, "I would, but I need the eggs."
Try being outside in the middle of winter when you suffer from arthritis, from experience I can tell you fun it ain't, especially when you come to pack your gear away at the end of the session. Astro photography is a hobby in its own right, don't forget many professional astronomers rarely if ever look directly through a telescope. Many astro photographers actually get their enjoyment processing the final image, some don't even own a scope they just download the raw data. There is no right way to enjoy the wonders of the night sky, it's all down to personal choice.
@@KevinRudd-w8s Sorry, I didn't know that both you and the main audience here were professional astro photographers.
@@rexsterling7346 I'm not a professional, never said I was, in fact I'm not even that good at it. But I do understand that not everyone enjoys doing astronomy in the same way that I do. We are not all professionals but like them some of us do spend a lot of our time in front of a computer screen. Just for the record I do still like to have an hour or so just looking at the sky through binoculars while my automated rigs do their thing in the background, Just because people can leave their automated rigs and go to bed doesn't necessarily mean that they all do.
I live in Ohio. Here, we have awfully humid summers with unbearable evenings filled with mosquitoes. We have frigid winters in which I don’t enjoy sitting. However, I do love the night sky. When I have opportunities to image, which is infrequent at my location (trees, clouds, rain, wind, smoke), I will happily image by any means comfortable. Now that I have a pier reserved at Starfront Observatories, I’ll be able to enjoy spending the evenings inside with my daughter and sleeping while my telescope is working for me.
Additionally, I have a full-time job, so staying up until morning isn’t an option for me at this stage in my life.
I can still go outside, look up, and enjoy my local sky. If that’s lazy, then I’m happily lazy.