I can't tell you how thankful I am for this video. spent the last 30 minutes and the last three days figuring where the friggin timing marks are. Bought a book that's 175$ for the VR4/SL and it doesn't even tell you where the timing marks are.... SMDH. This was a lot of help
Did you start from the beginning on Tavarish’s channel?!? If you the original condition, you’d know this thing needed a complete makeover. It’s fun to watch these guys fix things up. I wish videos could capture stench too 😂 Tavarish said it smelled like shit and ammonia in the first video 😂!!!!
Jursaw, I have been watching all your videos on the worst 3000GT in the the world, and they are very encouraging. Keep on working on this car :). I have a 1992 VR4 with some lesser mileage, get the timing corrected as intented. If you still have the engine light, you can go for replacing the coil pack unit all as one or you can lower the cost a bit by using a GM high voltage coil and modding it to work on your current coil pack. If the idle is high, go through the procedure for the factory manual to have the ECU recalibrate to the new IAC, I actually would like to see how that is done.
Jursaw the MMCD logger , you can see real time graphs as the vehicle is running, a real godsend. Yes you will need a special obd1 to USB conversion cable, read on. mmcdlogger.sourceforge.net/
do the solid tensioner and kevlar "race" belt instead. The belt cost abit more but it's Worth not having to worry about the hydraulic failing or belt snapping. but then again maybe you don't want to throw too much money on this one
I would like to but I don't have the funds at the moment. I need to get my daily driver back on the road as well. Maybe in the future I can put better parts!
bigchief2472000 Did you buy the OEM tensioner? I was thinking about using the solid tensioner on mine but I don't want to spend a lot of money on this car
i have the same problem, i went ahead and slipped plastic cards under the teeth and reset the time(probably not the best idea) but anyways i was able to reset the time that way and i still get no spark in 3 and 6, I'm doing a compression test tomorrow to see if i have bent valves.
now I've only got a 1991 SL manual with 140k and mine doesn't have the weird sound when you rev it, mine just sounds like a tractor. I've replaced the ECU with a new one, it had some other problems that the new one fixed so i kept it. I've replaced coil packs and the igniter, as well as all spark plugs, all of these things didn't really do much, i just checked compression in 5,3 and 1 today and everything checked out, I'm beginning to think its a wiring issue or i stretched the belt and it still won't spark.
This looks like a 91-92 car with the CAS (rear head intake cam), this one doesn't exhibit that problem like the 93+ (with crank at the oil pump sprocket and CAm at the rear exhaust) because if timing shifts it will miss the signal combination and drop 3-6, but yeah, one tooth off will run like crap.
check all the wiring, it should have good continuity and low resistance from the PTU pin all the way to the ECU , also check the PTU connector for corrosion or poor contact.
Alberto Alberto Alb I will check the continuity and resistance. I checked the ptu connectors and they seem fine. Wish I had a known good ptu to put into this car because who knows if this new one is good.
Please get an OEM timing belt tensioner and OEM Water pump, the timing belt can be a Gates but make sure the Tensioner and water pump are Genuine Mitsubishi parts.
that will be a long process, but if you love this car you can do it, I wanna see the final result, but I know , not is easy , take a time and money , I love the 3000gt I got a 1994 base with 222HP, I try to care any way , the pieces is expensive and hard to found sometimes, try to keeping with the same colour when you will go to painting, good luck bro!
I want to give this car a chance to be back on the road again, the parts are pricey and it will take some time but I will be happy to share my experience with you guys!
You're getting there brother. Keep fighting the good fight. You're going to have a fun highway monster when you're done for sure. Come find me on Misfit Toys on Facebook and Drive Tribe. Shoot me a PM. I have something I want to send you.
Ur not referring to "lifter tick" are U? sounds like it coming from one of your belts but it actuaally cos these came with small lifters....Personally no issue on my end cos have straight pipe n after market muffler on em plus use thicker oil Castrol high mileage semi-sythetic 10W30 with some marvel oil. will reduce sounds when u change ur oil but the annoying ticking sounds return after a few weeks.
Looks like a nightmare of a job to do inside the car. Would almost make more sense to pull it, rebuild it with all new gaskets and drop it back in. VT247
Vacationtime247 Yeah but I have seen it done. I don't have a engine hoist or engine stand or a place to work on it under a roof so I will see if I can get it done
I can't tell you how thankful I am for this video. spent the last 30 minutes and the last three days figuring where the friggin timing marks are. Bought a book that's 175$ for the VR4/SL and it doesn't even tell you where the timing marks are.... SMDH. This was a lot of help
I’m glad my video was of help to you!
man i never thought there'd be SO much (i just thought there'd be a lot) work needed lol godspeed brah!
There is a ton of work now, more videos for my subscribers to watch (more money for me to spend) lol
Did you start from the beginning on Tavarish’s channel?!? If you the original condition, you’d know this thing needed a complete makeover. It’s fun to watch these guys fix things up. I wish videos could capture stench too 😂 Tavarish said it smelled like shit and ammonia in the first video 😂!!!!
that vacuum line is to the clutch booster and has a check valve in it, if you run it without a check valve boost will leak into the clutch booster
Thanks for the tip
Jursaw, I have been watching all your videos on the worst 3000GT in the the world, and they are very encouraging. Keep on working on this car :). I have a 1992 VR4 with some lesser mileage, get the timing corrected as intented. If you still have the engine light, you can go for replacing the coil pack unit all as one or you can lower the cost a bit by using a GM high voltage coil and modding it to work on your current coil pack. If the idle is high, go through the procedure for the factory manual to have the ECU recalibrate to the new IAC, I actually would like to see how that is done.
ok here it is -> supercar-engineering.com/rubberducky/3S/Mods/All/MSDIgC/index.html
Jursaw the MMCD logger , you can see real time graphs as the vehicle is running, a real godsend. Yes you will need a special obd1 to USB conversion cable, read on. mmcdlogger.sourceforge.net/
I replaced the coil pack with a used set before I made this video but I didn't think it would be too interesting to watch but still the same problem.
I will look into it, thanks!
do the solid tensioner and kevlar "race" belt instead. The belt cost abit more but it's Worth not having to worry about the hydraulic failing or belt snapping.
but then again maybe you don't want to throw too much money on this one
I would like to but I don't have the funds at the moment. I need to get my daily driver back on the road as well. Maybe in the future I can put better parts!
Understand. If you want to be safe on the hydraulic you could do the welded washer mod(prevents it from fully collapsing). You can search it on 3si.
I will look it up, thanks for sharing!
bigchief2472000 Did you buy the OEM tensioner? I was thinking about using the solid tensioner on mine but I don't want to spend a lot of money on this car
bigchief2472000 I adapted my hydraulic tensioner and made it solid, I learned on forum ! Now don't miss time belt tooth.
i have the same problem, i went ahead and slipped plastic cards under the teeth and reset the time(probably not the best idea) but anyways i was able to reset the time that way and i still get no spark in 3 and 6, I'm doing a compression test tomorrow to see if i have bent valves.
water drop I never heard of that but what else have you checked?
now I've only got a 1991 SL manual with 140k and mine doesn't have the weird sound when you rev it, mine just sounds like a tractor. I've replaced the ECU with a new one, it had some other problems that the new one fixed so i kept it. I've replaced coil packs and the igniter, as well as all spark plugs, all of these things didn't really do much, i just checked compression in 5,3 and 1 today and everything checked out, I'm beginning to think its a wiring issue or i stretched the belt and it still won't spark.
water drop Wiring issue or maybe a stretched belt could be the case as well. Have you tried using a timing light?
What was the solution?
This looks like a 91-92 car with the CAS (rear head intake cam), this one doesn't exhibit that problem like the 93+ (with crank at the oil pump sprocket and CAm at the rear exhaust) because if timing shifts it will miss the signal combination and drop 3-6, but yeah, one tooth off will run like crap.
I read that too but I have no clue where to go from here to fix the no spark at cylinders 3/6 coil.
check all the wiring, it should have good continuity and low resistance from the PTU pin all the way to the ECU , also check the PTU connector for corrosion or poor contact.
bad ECU is another possibility
Alberto Alberto Alb I will check the continuity and resistance. I checked the ptu connectors and they seem fine. Wish I had a known good ptu to put into this car because who knows if this new one is good.
Alberto Alberto Alb That is true
Great video series man
Thank you!
thanks so much for the vids! my 94 sl has the same issue
What video did you replace the air filter in? Thanks
I didn't replace the air filter, the previous owner did.
Jursaw oh right thanks :)
Please get an OEM timing belt tensioner and OEM Water pump, the timing belt can be a Gates but make sure the Tensioner and water pump are Genuine Mitsubishi parts.
that will be a long process, but if you love this car you can do it, I wanna see the final result, but I know , not is easy , take a time and money , I love the 3000gt I got a 1994 base with 222HP, I try to care any way , the pieces is expensive and hard to found sometimes, try to keeping with the same colour when you will go to painting, good luck bro!
I want to give this car a chance to be back on the road again, the parts are pricey and it will take some time but I will be happy to share my experience with you guys!
You're getting there brother. Keep fighting the good fight.
You're going to have a fun highway monster when you're done for sure.
Come find me on Misfit Toys on Facebook and Drive Tribe.
Shoot me a PM.
I have something I want to send you.
Thanks for the encouraging words! I can't wait until it is fixed. I messaged you.
check under and behind the back seat for mouse.
I have to get a trap
I need to change my timing belts because when I start my car I hear clicking noises
Really? I have a weird rattling noise when I start my car too and I think it is coming from one of my pulleys
When I start my car I can hear that rattling when I let it warm up for 20 minutes the rattling stop I'm not too sure but I believe it's the pulleys
Ur not referring to "lifter tick" are U? sounds like it coming from one of your belts but it actuaally cos these came with small lifters....Personally no issue on my end cos have straight pipe n after market muffler on em plus use thicker oil Castrol high mileage semi-sythetic 10W30 with some marvel oil. will reduce sounds when u change ur oil but the annoying ticking sounds return after a few weeks.
yea it sounds like lifter tick. if your idle is above 1200 it will really make that noise. At least in my car.
Man I would hate to have that. Hopefully this car stays clear of that.
Looks like a nightmare of a job to do inside the car. Would almost make more sense to pull it, rebuild it with all new gaskets and drop it back in.
VT247
Vacationtime247 Yeah but I have seen it done. I don't have a engine hoist or engine stand or a place to work on it under a roof so I will see if I can get it done
No. It's not that bad just alot of parts to replace. It's a mileage service that needs to be done not an engine rebuild
Dirty with nuts 😂!!!!