If u broke n on a budget Water bottle. Hole in top Put line from valve into bottle Open valve. Pump brakes, With line submerged in brake fluid when u let off pedal it will only suck fluid back into system and not air, so long as ur quick it generally works on 1st or 2nd try
Usually you wanna start at the rear axle for a bleed for most cars. If you wanna be cheap and have no friends just let gravity do the work. Crack all 4 bleeders (or 6) and let the air get pushed out by the brake fluid behind it. Takes a long time, and can be messy but it works in a pinch if you have nothing else except a wrench, fluid and time. Once you get fluid only just close it up. Once all of them are closed, pump your brakes and check each bleeder for air again.
@@michaelric3540not in a 1970 Nissan Caball with a remote fluid reservoir, WHICH serves both the brake cylinder AND the clutch slave cylinder. And one master cylinder doing front and rear brakes NO separate chambers there!
@@michaelric3540not in a 1970 Nissan Caball with a remote fluid reservoir, WHICH serves both the brake cylinder AND the clutch slave cylinder. And one master cylinder doing front and rear brakes NO separate chambers there!
Don’t over pump it up especially on older cars, I’d recommend 10psi max. Reason being is an old plastic reservoir can burst and/ or, the rubber grommets between it and the MC can fail. First aid when you make a mess is flood with water asap.
Super cool feature of the power bleeder: the hoses rot and harden when exposed too brake fluid. Eventually you'll pressurize and brake fluid will spray all over your engine bay, paint, and windshield. Better to have friends than brake fluid all over your bay.
I like it and have one. It works great. Although, I have experience using cans to store the old fluid. They can cut the tube pretty easily. I would suggest a cheapo $10 bleeder bottle with a strong magnet. I never have to hold it and it comes with a long tube.
I tossed my power bleeder and use a telescopic paint roller handle on the brake pedal wedged into the seat. Been doing it that way 25 years hasn't let me down once
The one i have is a leftover from my old mans now closed shop. I started working there freshman year. Instead of pressurizing the top you would have it attached to an air hose and it would suck feom the pepcock on the caliper. You just had to pray you never sucked the master cylinder dry. Which i did several times because i was a poorly trained 14 year old with a stoner for a stupidvisorm
I've always heard that those add microscopic air bubbles into the brake fluid that you can't see. Over time, the bubbles will collect into bigger bubbles that you can see but by the time that happens, you aren't thinking about your brakes anymore.
Honestly.. if you just quick swap a caliper and don't get air in the lines, i just crack the bleeder and let em run for a bitm make sure the reservoir doesn't go dry. Thats all ya jeed to do. You'd need this if you got a bunch if air in the lines
Not a good plan. The power bleeder you are showing means you need a top to the master with a fitting specific to it. A vacuum pump is better. It attaches to the bleeder screw and you can leave the master lid off to add more fluid as required.
Nah this is old fashioned, the real answer is reverse bleeder. Start with a dry master reservoir, then push fluid from the closest calipers first to your master. If the master gets full, suck it back out for the next corner. That way the air goes up, the direction it naturally wants to.
Get a 99p spray cleaner bottle and use the spray top with straw, brand may differ on the size of the straw but you want one that fits snug inside the bleed nipple
I just use a 1/4” or 3/8” hose on the bleeder nipple 😬 and run it vertical up to the heavens then down to a bottle. Gravity and buoyancy let the air bubbles go up and brake fluid stay down near the nipple. Give her several pumps per corner (starting at farthest from brake master cylinder and working closer) and you should be good.
Or if your poor like everyone else and have no friends. Fill a plastic bottle halfway, with a hole in the cap also, with brake fluid. Crack the bleeder with a hose to the bottom of the bottle, and start pumping. When the air is all out it will fill the line. Close the bleeder
While you're completely right, on newer it's not necessary anymore. Some manufactures bleed there breaks front to back e.g ford on every hybrid. This is because newer cars have completely individual break circuits (optimizing abs and all that stuff) thus making bleeding from back to front obsolete (not for older cars and obv always do what the manufacturer says). Source am a mechanic who works primarily on ford's and Toyotas.
@@ethanwild3301 I think he’s talking about Larry breaking the former Hoonigan AutoFocus channel off from the mainstream Hoonigan media outlet, and turning it into his own channel.
need a hoonigan ron car car tips channel full of shorts like this
“Can We Go Home Now” 😂😂😂
If u broke n on a budget
Water bottle.
Hole in top
Put line from valve into bottle
Open valve.
Pump brakes,
With line submerged in brake fluid when u let off pedal it will only suck fluid back into system and not air, so long as ur quick it generally works on 1st or 2nd try
Yep, I came here to say this, learned how to do this recently myself! 🎉
You don't have to be broke this is my favorite method. No mess, it's simple and it works. Save the pump for the wife 😂
Came here for this. If you're a car guy you definitely have a piece of hose and a zip tie. Heat up a screwdriver on the stove and melt the hole. Boom.
What ah do all tha time, no need fer fancy stuff tae bleed em XD
Yeah, that’s not a pressure bleeder, it’s just a self bleeder which is not the same
You should be bleeding the rears first farthest away from the master cylinder
No friends to help bleed brakes? *empty water bottle has entered the chat*
Usually you wanna start at the rear axle for a bleed for most cars. If you wanna be cheap and have no friends just let gravity do the work. Crack all 4 bleeders (or 6) and let the air get pushed out by the brake fluid behind it. Takes a long time, and can be messy but it works in a pinch if you have nothing else except a wrench, fluid and time. Once you get fluid only just close it up. Once all of them are closed, pump your brakes and check each bleeder for air again.
@@michaelric3540not in a 1970 Nissan Caball with a remote fluid reservoir, WHICH serves both the brake cylinder AND the clutch slave cylinder. And one master cylinder doing front and rear brakes NO separate chambers there!
@@michaelric3540not in a 1970 Nissan Caball with a remote fluid reservoir, WHICH serves both the brake cylinder AND the clutch slave cylinder. And one master cylinder doing front and rear brakes NO separate chambers there!
Don’t over pump it up especially on older cars, I’d recommend 10psi max. Reason being is an old plastic reservoir can burst and/ or, the rubber grommets between it and the MC can fail. First aid when you make a mess is flood with water asap.
My friends have passed away. Thank u! Not good at asking for help. Great video. 👍
Super cool feature of the power bleeder: the hoses rot and harden when exposed too brake fluid. Eventually you'll pressurize and brake fluid will spray all over your engine bay, paint, and windshield. Better to have friends than brake fluid all over your bay.
I like it and have one. It works great. Although, I have experience using cans to store the old fluid. They can cut the tube pretty easily. I would suggest a cheapo $10 bleeder bottle with a strong magnet. I never have to hold it and it comes with a long tube.
The ones that suck the fluid from the calipers are a lot better then you can change out all your old brake fluid while your at it
You do the outside first. The inner part of the circuit will catch any bubbles as fluid passes to the outside.
I tossed my power bleeder and use a telescopic paint roller handle on the brake pedal wedged into the seat. Been doing it that way 25 years hasn't let me down once
i used a 2x4 and the driver seat ....
I'm old school, I put tubing into a bottle with fluid and pump until no bubbles.
Used one similar in the military but that one was all metal and had hose fitting along with different caps
Gravity, its a science you should read into, versus listening. 😂😂😂
Bruh I thought it said, how to delete brakes.....descriptions also says no friends im deadd
Ma man have the same knife as me... respect
The one i have is a leftover from my old mans now closed shop. I started working there freshman year. Instead of pressurizing the top you would have it attached to an air hose and it would suck feom the pepcock on the caliper. You just had to pray you never sucked the master cylinder dry. Which i did several times because i was a poorly trained 14 year old with a stoner for a stupidvisorm
Good advice. However dont use a food container as someone might accidentally imbibe the fluid
I always do this when I bleed my brakes. Now I'm gonna feel like I have no friends when I do it 😐
Solid
I've always heard that those add microscopic air bubbles into the brake fluid that you can't see. Over time, the bubbles will collect into bigger bubbles that you can see but by the time that happens, you aren't thinking about your brakes anymore.
I use an old pop bottle with a little piece of tubing attached to the bleed port. Only cost about 2 bucks.
Inside first you say, then outside, but which wheel first of the four and does the manufacturer state that it matters or not? Thnx.
Honestly.. if you just quick swap a caliper and don't get air in the lines, i just crack the bleeder and let em run for a bitm make sure the reservoir doesn't go dry. Thats all ya jeed to do. You'd need this if you got a bunch if air in the lines
Flair nut wrench ? Why wont a regular box wrench work ?
Not a good plan. The power bleeder you are showing means you need a top to the master with a fitting specific to it. A vacuum pump is better. It attaches to the bleeder screw and you can leave the master lid off to add more fluid as required.
You also forgot to mention that you should always start from the furthest wheel 😂😂 you messed up biggly
Nah this is old fashioned, the real answer is reverse bleeder. Start with a dry master reservoir, then push fluid from the closest calipers first to your master. If the master gets full, suck it back out for the next corner. That way the air goes up, the direction it naturally wants to.
And a scan tool for many vehicles abs bleed
I've always just pumped, wedge a long prybar or 2x6 between the pedal and the seat, move the seat up, crack into a bottle, replenish, repeat.
Something about Volvo 240 brakes being special
Awesome video. Thanks. I don’t have friends. Wish I did. Not in the cards
I realized my firebird self bleeds the front brakes 😮 I just bought speed bleders for the back
Can I just change my Brake pads without bleeding my brakes??
Hey why is Nads’ EG up on the rack? Why isn’t he driving it??
Nads should visit like Brady did
No master cylinder side first trick with these?
Get a 99p spray cleaner bottle and use the spray top with straw, brand may differ on the size of the straw but you want one that fits snug inside the bleed nipple
Soda bottle filled with fluid and a fuel hose. Save yourself a few bucks works like a charm
Does not get the air out of the master bore
I just use a 1/4” or 3/8” hose on the bleeder nipple 😬 and run it vertical up to the heavens then down to a bottle.
Gravity and buoyancy let the air bubbles go up and brake fluid stay down near the nipple.
Give her several pumps per corner (starting at farthest from brake master cylinder and working closer) and you should be good.
I totally do that without the "power bleeder"..
Or if your poor like everyone else and have no friends. Fill a plastic bottle halfway, with a hole in the cap also, with brake fluid. Crack the bleeder with a hose to the bottom of the bottle, and start pumping. When the air is all out it will fill the line. Close the bleeder
Also, work from the furthest away caliper (your case, rear driver's side) through to the nearest (in your case, driver's side front).
Enjoy!
While you're completely right, on newer it's not necessary anymore. Some manufactures bleed there breaks front to back e.g ford on every hybrid. This is because newer cars have completely individual break circuits (optimizing abs and all that stuff) thus making bleeding from back to front obsolete (not for older cars and obv always do what the manufacturer says). Source am a mechanic who works primarily on ford's and Toyotas.
It's called a line wrench
What about the lines
Self bleeding valves are less money, easier and you don't have to lug around that garden weed sprayer
You don't need a power bleeder if you don't have friends you just need a jack handle.
Or just hold the brake pedal down using the power seat and a stick.
Because friends pump the brakes when they should be holding them 😅
I used to have friends till I bought a power bleeder. Back to front I know….but same same
Gravity bleed...?
No friends l? Don’t bleed your brakes just hop on the interstate
I don’t have any friends. Was this made just for me?
Except you always start at the calliper furthest away from master cylinder,
You can do it with a 20oz soda bottle
That's so sad 😢 😂😂😂
Yep all you need is a 150$ tool and the right adapter
$50 tool
How to bleed brakes if you don’t have friends: use a tool for bleeding brakes
Or use a empty windex bottle
or throw a brick on the pedal
A gravity bleed is also effective.
You ask to leave, your staying late.😂
what a rude little nerd at the end man
Man Hoonigan fell off. Bunch of sketch advice and product ads. I knew it wouldn't last. Larry Chen might have been on to something
When did Larry say that?
@@ethanwild3301 I think he’s talking about Larry breaking the former Hoonigan AutoFocus channel off from the mainstream Hoonigan media outlet, and turning it into his own channel.