Nice work. I had not seen the sides of the float dories cut like that before. Looks a little bit like some of the body work on the late thirties and early forties autos with the sweeping curves. It is going to be a classy looking boat. Thank you and have a good week ahead.
Two fisted sanding looks cool. Smart not to sand through the glass. It’s a hand built boat. Perfect is the hallmark of machine production. Your boat has the pride of hand built craftsmanship. Well done.
You probably dont give a shit but if you're bored like me during the covid times then you can stream all of the new series on InstaFlixxer. I've been streaming with my gf these days =)
I have been following the construction of the boat, I confess that it is very beautiful and should be even more after it is ready. I haven't noticed the presence of your helper, UTZ.
I love the shape you went with. It is looking great. Man you tackled one huge project. And I must say, you are kidding it's butt. Thanks very much for sharing the journey with us. I hope you have a great week my friend.
For sanding over curved areas, Festool has softer interface pads will let the paper form to the shape of the material. Basically you can swap out the white pad that the sandpaper attaches to, and put on either a softer or harder pad. With the softer interface pad, you're able to get to more of a curved surface at a time which should even the sanding stoke out and also save time. Amazing project, by the way. Absolutely beautiful so far!
Those softer pads would probably reduce the jumping that it does sometimes. I’ll have to grab one. There were so many attachments and different sanding papers. It was overwhelming. I’m definitely under utilizing it
@@ThirdCoastCraftsman For sanding down epoxy, you definitely want to keep it in geared mode - but try playing with some other variables. For example, use the soft interface pad, and maybe turn the speed down a bit. Also, focus on keeping the CENTER of the pad pressed down into the boat. When only the edge of the pad is touching, that's when it really jumps off on you. I've had a Rotex 150 for a few years - it's unlike any other sander.. In geared mode, it can be like taking a Saint Bernard for a walk. And that's when you're sanding something flat..
I love that moment when you make that major cut that changes the whole character of the boat ... you spends months looking at it and you "think" that's the way it is and then ... boom ... it's a whole new boat!
Nice job so far. I have 2 thoughts for you. The first is, use a respirator at all times when sanding or cutting epoxy or fiberglass, They are real health hazards. The second is to take a look at Mas Epoxy. You have a lot less sanding with that product, and no blush to clean off if you miss the tack time as you did with the third coat. I have build 6 small boats and used Mas Epoxy for the last 2.
Even if you ruin the whole boat, it doesn’t matter because you have a terrific job. I am building a similar boat, it’s a cheyenne design by Jeff Spira, but your work is farrr superior than mine. Thanks for your videos
For the most even result, always make sure that you advance the roller sideways with the handle attachment side first. This is the side you get more pressure on and it squeezes more epoxy out. other side will leave ridge lines as you progress. Open side should trail. Hope I managed to explain this good enough. :)
Hi buddy, watching your channel regularly. I like your approach and your honesty regarding the worksteps you take. So I think I owe you some tipps regarding the Festool Rotex. I bought one before about one year. I use it for: - sanding down and finishing bigger and smaller wooden surfaces. - sanding and finishing metal surfaces. - preparing car surfaces for painting. - intermediate sanding between paintjobs. - polishing of paintjobs on all materials. - polishing of car headlamps. These are „only“ those tasks I already performed. Just ask your Festool dealer. I don‘t think there is any task you can’t perform with this sander except really filigrane workpeaces. There is different sanding disks papers or polishing pads as well as adhesive or polishing milks and substances for nearly every task you can imagine. I think you will be pretty happy with this machine. And, I don‘t use any respiration mask anymore while sanding. I use my Festool vac and an air cleaner only.
Another great video Bud! I'm pretty surer the more you use your new Festool sander the bigger fan you'll become and the more you'll reach for it. Happy New Tool Brother 👍
I totally hear what you are saying. I’m a sales person by trade and my specific job is to go to shops where they build 30’x50’ boats. Everything is covered in fibreglass. If the 20+ shops I visit there may be 2 or 3 that use masks and no respirators. These people are sanding 8 hours a day for 2 - 3 weeks at a time.
@J.C. Kohle true, but it's because the fiberglass gets ripped up into particulates when powertools are used on fiberglass/resin composites that the epoxy is indirectly harmful. If he sawed epoxy he's be fine
Not sure how good that Festool vacuum is (I bet it's pretty damn amazing.) but yes, fiberglass will get into your lungs and cut them up, and never come out. If you can smell it, it's in your lungs.
Cant wait to see it finished, it will be a beautiful boat, it already is actually. Would love to know how you transfered identical cutting line to the other side.
Thanks! About ever foot along the bottom I measured down along the side and then transferred those measurement to the other side. Then I bent the batten so it touched all the marks and was able to replicate the exact shape to both sides
Man, nice shape! I love the colour you've got now, beautiful. Demon tarp, lol. Sanding is bear at the best of times eh. I think I'll look into festool. Thanks for another great video.
Bosch makes a sander almost identical to the rotex. Works quite well matched with a Bosch dust extractor. Air holes on the disc aren't as fancy as the festool though
Three more good tricks on the cheaper side. 1. A microplane-style wood rasp makes quick work of drips if you can see them clearly. One light pass will shave down a vertical drip line and with some practice you can take them just down to the epoxy surface and no further. 2. A Fein (or knock-off) with a large cutting disk can be very easily used to "shave" the surface if you hold it at a very flat/shallow angle. It's amazing how fast you can clean up both drips and also fiberglass-tape edges if it gets a little shaggy there. 3. Make your tapes on 4+mil plastic. Wet heavily then lay another sheet of plastic on top. You can then squeegee out bubbles and then trim with disposable (Harbor Freight) scissors to a perfect line. Peel one plastic sheet, transfer to your joint and squeegee again. If you leave the top plastic sheet on, the squeegeed epoxy makes a perfect bevel on the edge of the tape line greatly reducing your sanding/jaggies there.
GREAT VLOG Gnarly stuff that cutting top edge off sides of boat! Two things I loved a third was good after wheeling out your boat liked the strip to mark in cut line, yikes sooo much work Am I cutting boat at right place along sides? But nicely done great choice of cutting tools camera angle, Sweet job, a loved also under inside view of cutting sides of boat. Nicely done.. Also loved chip brush idea with tape removal of loose bristles and then cyanoacrylate glueing down base of brisles on brush to futher inhibit brush hairs from buggering up finish of boat another idea I loved. We'll Done! You Best , David
I cringed when I saw you scribe and cut that low scoop on the bow. Then I remembered that this isn’t a Panga. Fiberglassing can have a steep learning curve- it’s nice to follow yours. Thanks!
Yes, I forgot Marfell. But I only knew the festool guys. I think Marfell and festool are almost the same.. Aber was der Bauer nicht kennt, frisst er nicht 😅😅 (sorry I don't know how I translate this 😆)
@@svenelsi5605 lol " what farmer doesnt know he doesnt eat" good one 😁 Anyway, I use track saws and have tried festool, it is good however mafell mt55cc is by far the best tracksaw on the market at the moment, same goes for their jigsaw and I believe their table saw Erika.
@@bluewanderer9903 Oh, Thanks for giving me a new perspetive. i think givin the mafell tracksaw a chance. I like the Erika to, i have lerned on this maschine. My (teaching master) got one allmost since 25 years i think.
Maybe you should try Festool Granat instead of the conventional sand paper. Those are a little expensive but the vacuum will work better and they last longer. I think those are originally from Mirca
When you use such a sander like that, you can't compare it with other orbital sanders cost a fraction of the price. As stated before, compare apple to apples. not apples to oranges. Each manufacturer has such expensive sanders and I think they would compare equally. Just my opinion. And yes I have built a boat and rebuild cars from top to down and even inside as well. I've used all types of sanders, and each type has it's place when doing most any project. Thumbs Up!
My kärcher shop vac does the same thing when you plug something into it starts automatically and keeps running for 5 more sec, just so you know there are multiple choices for that
Nice work Chris! Love the lines of the boat. Word of caution: as others have noted, I would strongly recommend that you wear good dust protection going forward. Also, where is UTZ?
Coming from an Autobody background you probably could save money and time using an air operated Palm DA sander with automotive grade 3m paper. Something like a Dynabrade or equivalent. You’d e surprised the difference in the paper alone. Find an automotive paint supplier in your area.
Don’t those air sanders require a pretty serious air compressor? Do they have dust collection? I’ll definitely check out the dynabrade. I’m always looking for good paper!
Third Coast Craftsman Yeah they need volume. I forget I was spoiled growing up with a shop at my parents house. 80 gallon black max home depot compressor. It’s about 25 years old now. They do offer models with dust collection. But it adds additional cost when it comes to paper.
You can actually almost eliminate sanding entirely, if you work carefully during the curing stages of the epoxy, and change your application method. With epoxy, timing is critical: 1. Don't wait until the epoxy's fully-cured, then use brute-force to sand drips etc out. Instead, wait a couple of hours (+/- depending on how quick it's curing) until it is just plasticky, not fully hardened, then use a furniture scraper, block plane or other sharp blade to just cut the still-soft-ish lumps etc off, easy as pie. Just exactly as you'd smooth wood. 2. Always try to re-coat before the previous coat is fully cured. That way, you'll achieve a full chemical bond, without the need to sand. Even if the previous-coat is glossy, the top coat will be fully adhered, without any need to roughen it to produce a mechanical bond. If left 'til it's fully cured, it won't chemically bond, so a considerable sanding effort becomes necessary. 3. Apply the epoxy using cheap flexible flat plastic spreaders, not rollers. The strongest, lightest and cheapest joints use the least-possible epoxy, and place the fiber-glass hard-up against the wood surface. Rollers can't squeeze the fiber-glass hard enough against the wood, so leave it 'floating' within a puddle of epoxy an un-known distance above the wood surface) and typically use much more epoxy than necessary (resulting in drips etc). You can probably halve the weight and cost of the epoxy you use, and double the effective strength of the finished product, and almost entirely eliminate drips, simply by switching to cheap plastic spreaders.
I did use plastic spreaders when applying the first coast of epoxy over glass. And yes I know it’s better to apply additional epoxy coats while it’s still tacky for the chemical bond but if you saw the last video I ended up with drip marks so I stopped after 2 coats to see if I could fix the drip marks before adding additional.
That boat is getting EXPENSIVE! But hey, what is the point of any DIY project if not for an excuse to buy more tools! The boat is looking really nice 👍. It’s going to turn out so professional looking, you’ll need the drip stains to prove to people you built it yourself!
looking sweet man! kind-of off subject, but I thought you bought some amazing riverfront property with a killer shop? Can't remember, does that place not have a house on the property yet?
You really need to do some research on the detrimental effects of epoxy / fiberglass or you won't be building any more boats . I worked in Aerospace for 32 years . You learned from your mistakes in applying it , your body will not learn from the mistakes of not wearing a respirator the effects are cumulative Take the advise of a 60 year old kiteboard builder who has made all the same epoxy mistakes you have . Dont trust the extraction system on that sander you owe it to your wife kids and those trout! Ps i still fish with the same G. Loomis rod i built in 1984 and you shoud see the lousy epoxy job i did on the guides ,drips and all. Keep up the good work I admire you, your one of us!
Hey brother you need to watch boatworks today... it will help you tremendously with your build... anyone and everyone who these comments please help me the word along... to help out third coast with his build... you need to watch boatworks today...
After running into the problem of sandpaper clogging up while hand sanding an 18’ stripper canoe that I built back in the ‘80s, I came up with a very low cost but efficient method of making the fiberglass super smooth. I was sitting at the local Waffle House enjoying a cup of coffee when the cook started cleaning the grill with a chunk of something so I asked her what she was using and she told me it was called a “Grill Brick,” after a little conversation she gave me one to try. It turned out to be the solution to my problem. The grill brick ablades itself as you use it so it never cloggs up and it leaves a great finish without any bumps or dips. I went back and asked her how I could get some of that magical product and she got me a whole case of them for $20.00 . It was enough to sand my canoe with plenty left over. The canoe looked like a piece of fine furniture when I applied the spar varnish and I was jumping for joy at how the project turned out. Everyone today is looking for a power tool to do the job but sometimes you just have to suck it up and use your hands. I’m sorry that you had to end up spending all that money on a “Pusstool Sander” while there was a waaay cheaper solution to your problem!
Boats: board of all this sanding That's just the nature of the trade get some headphones and suck it up. Having said the arba net disks mirka make are the best in the bizz
At some point this guy will need to move to a bigger property. You can only build so much is a residential area. But keep it up, since the rest of us can’t do it.
NO. runs can be reduced substantially with a scraper before sanding. Otherwise, stop playing with any epoxy without gloves. epoxy resin on bare skin eventually leads to allergies and inability to use it again.
Yes and no. It a drift boat with a wider reason that sits in the water so I can put a small motor on and still get on plane. With the motor off it will still row nice like a drift boat and float skinny skinny water (that’s the hope) haha
Everybody makes their own decisions, but even with the vacuum on the Festool you're breathing in some of the nastiest shit when you're sanding epoxy and fiberglass... I skip the dust mask and wear a respirator when doing this work.
Nice work. I had not seen the sides of the float dories cut like that before. Looks a little bit like some of the body work on the late thirties and early forties autos with the sweeping curves. It is going to be a classy looking boat. Thank you and have a good week ahead.
Two fisted sanding looks cool. Smart not to sand through the glass. It’s a hand built boat. Perfect is the hallmark of machine production. Your boat has the pride of hand built craftsmanship. Well done.
I appreciate that. It’s a good point that I should keep in mind more often
You probably dont give a shit but if you're bored like me during the covid times then you can stream all of the new series on InstaFlixxer. I've been streaming with my gf these days =)
@Finn Callan yup, I've been watching on InstaFlixxer for years myself :)
I have been following the construction of the boat, I confess that it is very beautiful and should be even more after it is ready. I haven't noticed the presence of your helper, UTZ.
You should look into carbide sanding disks... save a bunch of paper
Mr T duradisc by duragrit
I love the shape you went with. It is looking great. Man you tackled one huge project. And I must say, you are kidding it's butt. Thanks very much for sharing the journey with us. I hope you have a great week my friend.
Looks like you're back in business. Can't wait for the next video!
Looks great! Another reason for the sides being lower, you can see the bottom of the river, closer to your boat
For sanding over curved areas, Festool has softer interface pads will let the paper form to the shape of the material. Basically you can swap out the white pad that the sandpaper attaches to, and put on either a softer or harder pad. With the softer interface pad, you're able to get to more of a curved surface at a time which should even the sanding stoke out and also save time.
Amazing project, by the way. Absolutely beautiful so far!
Those softer pads would probably reduce the jumping that it does sometimes. I’ll have to grab one. There were so many attachments and different sanding papers. It was overwhelming. I’m definitely under utilizing it
@@ThirdCoastCraftsman For sanding down epoxy, you definitely want to keep it in geared mode - but try playing with some other variables. For example, use the soft interface pad, and maybe turn the speed down a bit. Also, focus on keeping the CENTER of the pad pressed down into the boat. When only the edge of the pad is touching, that's when it really jumps off on you. I've had a Rotex 150 for a few years - it's unlike any other sander.. In geared mode, it can be like taking a Saint Bernard for a walk. And that's when you're sanding something flat..
Good luck 👍. You're going to have a great time with your boat.
This has been such an interesting journey! Boat building is not for the weak
I love that moment when you make that major cut that changes the whole character of the boat ... you spends months looking at it and you "think" that's the way it is and then ... boom ... it's a whole new boat!
Nice job so far. I have 2 thoughts for you. The first is, use a respirator at all times when sanding or cutting epoxy or fiberglass, They are real health hazards. The second is to take a look at Mas Epoxy. You have a lot less sanding with that product, and no blush to clean off if you miss the tack time as you did with the third coat. I have build 6 small boats and used Mas Epoxy for the last 2.
Thx for the video. You’re a brave man cutting to the shape that you wanted. I would be pissing myself making those cuts! Gonna look great when done!
Nice progress Chris! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
Even if you ruin the whole boat, it doesn’t matter because you have a terrific job. I am building a similar boat, it’s a cheyenne design by Jeff Spira, but your work is farrr superior than mine. Thanks for your videos
For the most even result, always make sure that you advance the roller sideways with the handle attachment side first. This is the side you get more pressure on and it squeezes more epoxy out. other side will leave ridge lines as you progress. Open side should trail. Hope I managed to explain this good enough. :)
Great tip. Thank you!
Was worth watching for the chip brush truck alone. 👍
Hi buddy, watching your channel regularly.
I like your approach and your honesty regarding the worksteps you take.
So I think I owe you some tipps regarding the Festool Rotex.
I bought one before about one year. I use it for:
- sanding down and finishing bigger and smaller wooden surfaces.
- sanding and finishing metal surfaces.
- preparing car surfaces for painting.
- intermediate sanding between paintjobs.
- polishing of paintjobs on all materials.
- polishing of car headlamps.
These are „only“ those tasks I already performed.
Just ask your Festool dealer.
I don‘t think there is any task you can’t perform with this sander except really filigrane workpeaces.
There is different sanding disks papers or polishing pads as well as adhesive or polishing milks and substances for nearly every task you can imagine.
I think you will be pretty happy with this machine.
And, I don‘t use any respiration mask anymore while sanding.
I use my Festool vac and an air cleaner only.
youtube quit showing me your videos and I kinda forgot. getting caught up on this boat.
Beautiful color in that wood, glad you didn't sand it back to the wood.
Thanks Thomas!
Fantastic Sander.... Particularly for this type of job... Will save you a ton of time....
TH-cam is like watching someone who first discovers a rake. Love youtube!
Another great video Bud! I'm pretty surer the more you use your new Festool sander the bigger fan you'll become and the more you'll reach for it. Happy New Tool Brother 👍
You went the epoxy route. With polyester resin, if you use wax in your final coat, it will cure the resin rock hard. Much easier to sand.
You are going to love that rotex.
Best woodworker in the world
Haha I’m a LONG LONG ways from that but I do appreciate the support friend!
Please use some type of respirator or mask while using power tools on fiberglass/epoxy, that stuff is nasty
Otherwise I love the build!
It's literally giving you cancer. Please be safe
I totally hear what you are saying. I’m a sales person by trade and my specific job is to go to shops where they build 30’x50’ boats. Everything is covered in fibreglass. If the 20+ shops I visit there may be 2 or 3 that use masks and no respirators. These people are sanding 8 hours a day for 2 - 3 weeks at a time.
@J.C. Kohle true, but it's because the fiberglass gets ripped up into particulates when powertools are used on fiberglass/resin composites that the epoxy is indirectly harmful. If he sawed epoxy he's be fine
Not sure how good that Festool vacuum is (I bet it's pretty damn amazing.) but yes, fiberglass will get into your lungs and cut them up, and never come out. If you can smell it, it's in your lungs.
Check out the Mirka sanding screens too.
I know you have moved and many things have happened in the world. I would love an update on this great project
I felt that doubled fisted sanding in my soul. Get it done.
Good morning!
I think that buying new boat is cheaper than the festool sander with dust extractor ;)
Festool makes great finishing sanders also
I Wanna Ride That Boat So Cool!!!!!!!!!!!
Cant wait to see it finished, it will be a beautiful boat, it already is actually.
Would love to know how you transfered identical cutting line to the other side.
Thanks! About ever foot along the bottom I measured down along the side and then transferred those measurement to the other side. Then I bent the batten so it touched all the marks and was able to replicate the exact shape to both sides
That is very smart, and I understood that ☺, thanks for explanation .
Gotta use a scraper to remove the runs. Sanding just clogs the sandpaper.
Man, nice shape! I love the colour you've got now, beautiful. Demon tarp, lol. Sanding is bear at the best of times eh. I think I'll look into festool. Thanks for another great video.
Bosch makes a sander almost identical to the rotex. Works quite well matched with a Bosch dust extractor. Air holes on the disc aren't as fancy as the festool though
The concept for the Oar Points makes a lot common sense; which I would have never dawned on me.
Six to eight hours sounds about right to me.
Three more good tricks on the cheaper side. 1. A microplane-style wood rasp makes quick work of drips if you can see them clearly. One light pass will shave down a vertical drip line and with some practice you can take them just down to the epoxy surface and no further. 2. A Fein (or knock-off) with a large cutting disk can be very easily used to "shave" the surface if you hold it at a very flat/shallow angle. It's amazing how fast you can clean up both drips and also fiberglass-tape edges if it gets a little shaggy there. 3. Make your tapes on 4+mil plastic. Wet heavily then lay another sheet of plastic on top. You can then squeegee out bubbles and then trim with disposable (Harbor Freight) scissors to a perfect line. Peel one plastic sheet, transfer to your joint and squeegee again. If you leave the top plastic sheet on, the squeegeed epoxy makes a perfect bevel on the edge of the tape line greatly reducing your sanding/jaggies there.
Great tips! Thanks so much. It sucks I can’t have these tips before I do each part haha
@@ThirdCoastCraftsman Well you know the saying... "By the time you're done you'll be an expert!" :D
GREAT VLOG
Gnarly stuff that cutting top edge off sides of boat! Two things I loved a third was good after wheeling out your boat liked the strip to mark in cut line, yikes sooo much work Am I cutting boat at right place along sides? But nicely done great choice of cutting tools camera angle, Sweet job, a loved also under inside view of cutting sides of boat. Nicely done..
Also loved chip brush idea with tape removal of loose bristles and then cyanoacrylate glueing down base of brisles on brush to futher inhibit brush hairs from buggering up finish of boat another idea I loved. We'll Done! You
Best , David
Thanks so much David. Glad you liked it!
Have lots of Festool, plus the Rotex. Do not get too aggressive with it. It will eat up the epoxy if not careful. Boat is looking great.
It would have gone right through the boat if I wasn’t careful haha. It has major power
@@ThirdCoastCraftsman Boat is beautiful.
Irwin, Abranet, Bosch, maybe a few other brands available in the US do mesh sanding discs that won't clog like paper ones
That's what i was going to say too. He should buy some Mirka Abranet discs. They are amazing mesh sanding discs.
I’ll check them out
When I buy Festool , that is the exact same thing I will pull god trigger on too, I used that sander at demo booth and it is awesome .
what if you just spent the time and effort doing multiple coats of epoxy INSTEAD of doing any fiberglass cloth (or matting) ???
How freaking hard was it to take the saw to it? I had a small freak out when I drilled holes in my hull for my chainplates. You're doing great!
I cringed when I saw you scribe and cut that low scoop on the bow. Then I remembered that this isn’t a Panga. Fiberglassing can have a steep learning curve- it’s nice to follow yours. Thanks!
I realy love festool, in Germany it is the brand for profecional carpinters or cabinetmakers.
What about Mafell, I was under the impression that a lot of pro tradesmen in Deutschland prefer mafell over festool or bosch.
Yes, I forgot Marfell. But I only knew the festool guys. I think Marfell and festool are almost the same.. Aber was der Bauer nicht kennt, frisst er nicht 😅😅 (sorry I don't know how I translate this 😆)
@@svenelsi5605 lol " what farmer doesnt know he doesnt eat" good one 😁
Anyway, I use track saws and have tried festool, it is good however mafell mt55cc is by far the best tracksaw on the market at the moment, same goes for their jigsaw and I believe their table saw Erika.
@@bluewanderer9903 Oh, Thanks for giving me a new perspetive. i think givin the mafell tracksaw a chance. I like the Erika to, i have lerned on this maschine. My (teaching master) got one allmost since 25 years i think.
With the curve in the top lip of the boat, this is going to look incredible. I can't wait to see the rest of the content on this build
Thanks Ryan. It really does look great
Bosch has the auto start dust extractor that can be connected to a direct gear drive sander.
Second on the respirator
Maybe you should try Festool Granat instead of the conventional sand paper. Those are a little expensive but the vacuum will work better and they last longer. I think those are originally from Mirca
Yes I was using the grab at paper. It’s incredibly nice paper!
My grandma had that same stool in her kitchen
When you use such a sander like that, you can't compare it with other orbital sanders cost a fraction of the price. As stated before, compare apple to apples. not apples to oranges. Each manufacturer has such expensive sanders and I think they would compare equally. Just my opinion. And yes I have built a boat and rebuild cars from top to down and even inside as well. I've used all types of sanders, and each type has it's place when doing most any project. Thumbs Up!
My kärcher shop vac does the same thing when you plug something into it starts automatically and keeps running for 5 more sec, just so you know there are multiple choices for that
Nice work Chris! Love the lines of the boat. Word of caution: as others have noted, I would strongly recommend that you wear good dust protection going forward. Also, where is UTZ?
scrape the drips with a card scraper
I know your upset about the drips, but still, you will have a beautiful boat when done. Can't wait to see it.
Coming from an Autobody background you probably could save money and time using an air operated Palm DA sander with automotive grade 3m paper. Something like a Dynabrade or equivalent. You’d e surprised the difference in the paper alone. Find an automotive paint supplier in your area.
Don’t those air sanders require a pretty serious air compressor? Do they have dust collection? I’ll definitely check out the dynabrade. I’m always looking for good paper!
Third Coast Craftsman Yeah they need volume. I forget I was spoiled growing up with a shop at my parents house. 80 gallon black max home depot compressor. It’s about 25 years old now.
They do offer models with dust collection. But it adds additional cost when it comes to paper.
You can actually almost eliminate sanding entirely, if you work carefully during the curing stages of the epoxy, and change your application method. With epoxy, timing is critical:
1. Don't wait until the epoxy's fully-cured, then use brute-force to sand drips etc out. Instead, wait a couple of hours (+/- depending on how quick it's curing) until it is just plasticky, not fully hardened, then use a furniture scraper, block plane or other sharp blade to just cut the still-soft-ish lumps etc off, easy as pie. Just exactly as you'd smooth wood.
2. Always try to re-coat before the previous coat is fully cured. That way, you'll achieve a full chemical bond, without the need to sand. Even if the previous-coat is glossy, the top coat will be fully adhered, without any need to roughen it to produce a mechanical bond. If left 'til it's fully cured, it won't chemically bond, so a considerable sanding effort becomes necessary.
3. Apply the epoxy using cheap flexible flat plastic spreaders, not rollers. The strongest, lightest and cheapest joints use the least-possible epoxy, and place the fiber-glass hard-up against the wood surface. Rollers can't squeeze the fiber-glass hard enough against the wood, so leave it 'floating' within a puddle of epoxy an un-known distance above the wood surface) and typically use much more epoxy than necessary (resulting in drips etc). You can probably halve the weight and cost of the epoxy you use, and double the effective strength of the finished product, and almost entirely eliminate drips, simply by switching to cheap plastic spreaders.
I did use plastic spreaders when applying the first coast of epoxy over glass. And yes I know it’s better to apply additional epoxy coats while it’s still tacky for the chemical bond but if you saw the last video I ended up with drip marks so I stopped after 2 coats to see if I could fix the drip marks before adding additional.
@@ThirdCoastCraftsman Thanks :). Sorry if I came off like a know-it-all. Should have watched the last episode before I chimed in. Beautiful boat BTW.
Is there a launch video for your boat? I can't find it.
off topic question - Which japanese saw/saws would you recommend for dovetailing in 3/4 stock? What are the advantages of having a back on a pull saw?
Gyokucho brand. Grab a ryoba and dozuki
Спасибо за видео. Плохо, что защитой не пользуешься. Внутри лодки такая же обработка будет?
That boat is getting EXPENSIVE! But hey, what is the point of any DIY project if not for an excuse to buy more tools! The boat is looking really nice 👍. It’s going to turn out so professional looking, you’ll need the drip stains to prove to people you built it yourself!
Haha thanks bud.
looking sweet man! kind-of off subject, but I thought you bought some amazing riverfront property with a killer shop? Can't remember, does that place not have a house on the property yet?
I would like to introduce you to the channel Sail Life. He is the sanding fiberglass king. I REALY think you will learn a lot.
Should have went with Mirka. Like a lambo. Ofc more expensive haha
That’s the other brand I have seen before but couldn’t remember. They do look nice
Great color. Really beautiful work but when you're showing the festool you look really tired
Haha I probably am. This boat is exhausting
You really need to do some research on the detrimental effects of epoxy / fiberglass or you won't be building any more boats . I worked in Aerospace for 32 years . You learned from your mistakes in applying it , your body will not learn from the mistakes of not wearing a respirator the effects are cumulative Take the advise of a 60 year old kiteboard builder who has made all the same epoxy mistakes you have . Dont trust the extraction system on that sander you owe it to your wife kids and those trout! Ps i still fish with the same G. Loomis rod i built in 1984 and you shoud see the lousy epoxy job i did on the guides ,drips and all. Keep up the good work I admire you, your one of us!
Or as Andy at BoatworksToday would 'boat building is 90% sanding' 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣💪💪💪💪💪
Dude????? How much resin did you use?
с высокими бортами тоже было круто.
Have you ever had the denatured alcohol turn your hands and work piece a yellowish tint?
I haven’t noticed that yet
Hey brother you need to watch boatworks today... it will help you tremendously with your build... anyone and everyone who these comments please help me the word along... to help out third coast with his build... you need to watch boatworks today...
After running into the problem of sandpaper clogging up while hand sanding an 18’ stripper canoe that I built back in the ‘80s, I came up with a very low cost but efficient method of making the fiberglass super smooth.
I was sitting at the local Waffle House enjoying a cup of coffee when the cook started cleaning the grill with a chunk of something so I asked her what she was using and she told me it was called a “Grill Brick,” after a little conversation she gave me one to try. It turned out to be the solution to my problem. The grill brick ablades itself as you use it so it never cloggs up and it leaves a great finish without any bumps or dips.
I went back and asked her how I could get some of that magical product and she got me a whole case of them for $20.00 . It was enough to sand my canoe with plenty left over. The canoe looked like a piece of fine furniture when I applied the spar varnish and I was jumping for joy at how the project turned out. Everyone today is looking for a power tool to do the job but sometimes you just have to suck it up and use your hands.
I’m sorry that you had to end up spending all that money on a “Pusstool Sander” while there was a waaay cheaper solution to your problem!
I’ll check it out!
Boats:
board
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That's just the nature of the trade get some headphones and suck it up. Having said the arba net disks mirka make are the best in the bizz
So how did you transfer the line from one side to the other, and get them even?
At some point this guy will need to move to a bigger property. You can only build so much is a residential area. But keep it up, since the rest of us can’t do it.
Exactly. I actually did buy property last summer with a big pole barn. This spring I will be finishing that for the new shop
Hi. Just wondering why all american boats are flat bottomed.
Most boats that are meant for rivers have flat bottoms. Almost all ocean and lake boats are not flat
Where is the shop partner doggo? Show us the doggo!
👍
NO. runs can be reduced substantially with a scraper before sanding. Otherwise, stop playing with any epoxy without gloves. epoxy resin on bare skin eventually leads to allergies and inability to use it again.
why sand the epoxy so much?
By the way, I would have cut out shape, then finish wood and waste all that fiberglass, resin and time!
Drift boat?
Yes and no. It a drift boat with a wider reason that sits in the water so I can put a small motor on and still get on plane. With the motor off it will still row nice like a drift boat and float skinny skinny water (that’s the hope) haha
You could have saved on the fiber glassing too if you had ct the shape first.
Good point
Please tell the diagram thanks
Why wouldn't you cut the shape before you glassed the boat? Seems backwards way to go about it lol
Everybody makes their own decisions, but even with the vacuum on the Festool you're breathing in some of the nastiest shit when you're sanding epoxy and fiberglass... I skip the dust mask and wear a respirator when doing this work.
You should probably use gloves and a mask :/ Nice boat however !