I'm a beginner and just finished the simple fox from your tutorial. This video was very helpful with the next steps on how to finish my little fox. Even though he is not perfect I'd like to preserve him as a nice token of my first carving.
Another great video! I made my first wood carving the other day and had no idea how to finish it! I'm so glad i found your channel! It's been very helpful 😊
I'm currently using home made beeswax polish made of (roughly) one part each raw wax and vegetable turps. The turps is made from eucalyptus and so the polish smells like Vicks for a while but is gone by the day after application. I also use linseed oil for a lot of things apart from wood finishing. For food safe I use the same walnut oil I use for cooking as per a spoon carving tutorial I saw on wikihow.
@@CarvingisFun I just finished a figure I plan to paint with gesso and acrylics and even a bit of gold leaf. I haven't tried a full colour paintjob so I don't know how it's going to go yet.
Thanks so much for the video. Very informative! Do you have any experience with soaking woodcarvings completely in oil for several days? What's your opinion on this? I know some spooncarvers swear by this, but others say a few coats with a rag is more than enough.
I've only ever applied a few coats on mine, but still see soaking them being a completely valid option. Soaking will ensure wood penetration and may result in a more sealed carving that may last longer. On the flip side, it may also take longer to completely dry.
Thanks a lot for your videos! I had a dream the other day that I was whittling, so I got a BeaverCraft knife and some supplies and followed your fox tutorial today and was quite surprised with the result. Haven't been this excited about a new hobby in a while! I've got some walnut oil that I bought to use on my wood cutting boards, would that be okay on using on whittling projects? Any experience with it? Thanks!
I have a question I am working on a carving my dad dead back in the seventies it was done on pine it's our family crest or coat of arms I want to keep the back part of the carving dark but I want the shield itself the higher points on the carving to really pop!! The higher points on the carving are right now just sanded without any stain so I'm just wondering if I should go with the tongue well?? The back ground the lower end on the carving is already stained a dark walnut with a polyurethane coating on it!! Thanks I appreciate any advice you give me!!😎😎😎
Fixing my grammar here real quick!! Cuz you know how this AutoText changes things up!! Meant to say working on the carving my dad did back in the seventies and also about using the tongue oil ?? One other question real quick if I did go at the tongue oil on the high points on the carving after that sets and dries really well should I put a clear coat polyurethane coating on it??
Tung oil is a great option and it does add a protective layer to the wood so no extra finish is required. Instead of using another layer of polyurethane, just add a few layers of tung oil instead. I also would use non natural tung oil as the natural tung oil has a drying time that takes weeks instead of hours.
Hello, No one online, anywhere that I can find, talks about the curing or dry time using Mineral Oil on Basswood carvings. I used it liberally but not excessively. I have a piece that has been leaching oil for 3 days. Do you have any experience or knowledge about this ? Any suggestions will be appreciated very much. Thank You, Bill
Howdy!! Mineral oil doesn't dry or cure, it will always stay wet. I do mention in this video that it doesn't harden as well. However, most people use it primarily for carvings or wood objects that come into contact with food as it is food safe and provides a protective oil barrier that prevents food particals and juices from absorbing into the wood. Still, it does require reaplication over time depending on use.
Would you consider doing a review on Odie’s oil? I’d love to see how you think it’s backs up to these finishes. And how it works on raw and painted wood, like a carving that has some acrylic paint on it.
from what I'm told, Natural Tung Oil and Natural Walnut Oil is food safe AFTER it has fully cured. But this cure time can take weeks to a month to do. Then you have to worry about nut allergies.
How do you finish very tiny details or notches like small carvings that have eyes/button holes on clothes/hair etc.? A rag may not reach in there. Doubly so with wax.
Is there any merit to combining Danish Oil and Beeswax? (Using the oil first and applying the beeswax after it dries) Or should you stick with one or the other
are all of these good for hair sticks too? Esp the tung oil? I really want to make my own hair sticks and give them a good finish but I don't have anyone to ask about this lol
Not all of them, I would focus on finishes that dry hard. Beeswax paste may get soft in heat and get in your hair. You will probably want to find a finish that hardens, like polymerized tung oil finish or a hard varnish. Just pay attention to the drying times.
Great video, very helpful for a beginner like my self. being a cheap lazy bastard the few carvings i have finished ive just used vegetable oil on them, thoughts on that? Also i think you may secretly be SerpaDesign cuz you guys sound identical lol
Thanks! A note on vegetable oil, they do have a shelf life and will eventually go rancid over time. This will cause them to smell kinda funky, so I would probably switch over to mineral oil if you want a super cheap alternative. Nope not SerpaDesign, but now have another YT channel to binge watch!
What about water-based acrylic paints? They should have poor adhesion to the oil. What finishing coat do you recommend over water-based acrylic paints? Thank you.
I have never tried it, but in theory you could. I think that food dye would work better. Just mix it very thoroughly and only add a little color at a time. Some of the Danish wood oils come in darker colors too.
Hi and thanks for posting this! I do have a question about Tung Oil and was wondering what your opinion would be. I have an old wooden-handled kitchen knife that was painted but the paint has largely worn off the handle. I really like the blade and want to save it but the handle isn’t standing up well to dish washing anymore. Definitely don’t like how it’s getting left in the sink even for a bit if it gets exposed to water. I wish to sand the handle to get riding the remaining paint and preserve the knife but do not wish to repaint it, just leave it natural. My question, is sanding and applying Tung Oil sufficient? Will a Tung Oil treated handle stand up to repeated washing or is some other sealant needed? Btw I hand wash rather than using a dishwasher. I have thought of using a marine spar varnish but I think that might make the handle tacky. Haven’t used Tung Oil before and don’t want to get it if it’s the wrong thing. Any suggestions? Thank You!
Interesting, but I agree the varnish will get tacky. If you use tung oil, I imagine it will hold up with multiple layers after sanding the handle down first. As to applying, I would apply the first 1 or 2 layers using some sort of thinner with the tung oil so it can penetrate deep into the wood. then follow the directions on the container to see how frequently to apply a new coat and for it to completely polymerize. I do have a feeling that many people use linseed oil in this case, maybe it will be a faster and better option if it is something you want to try?
@@CarvingisFun Thank You for getting back! That sounds good for the Tung oil, hadn’t even considered using it with thinner! That said I will definitely look into linseed oil, hadn’t thought of that either but faster and better sounds great! Liked the video and some of your other ones and subscribed. Thanks again!! 😁
I personally like beeswax paste myself because it is easy to apply, not a chemical, and smells nice. But it isn't very durable. If you wanted to paint, I would do so before applying the beeswax. Another option that is popular is using linseed oil. Keep in mind that boiled linseed oil can be flamable so dry out any rags you used to apply with first before disposing of them. But you can paint with acrylic over the linseed oil Another option is watercolor, I personally like this rout and is easy to work with.
If the figure is already painted, the beeswax wont absorb into the wood. However. The beeswax will still add a thin protective layer to keep the paint from getting damaged.
I was waiting for something like that. Thank you. Can I suggest you to make a video about antiquing techniques? I found the liquid bitumen, but it’s not the right one if you have also to paint your work. I’m trying with lindseed oil and some brown oil colour. Do you have some techniques? Thank you
Welcome! I have only ever watched my aunt do some antiquing on cabinets and furniture. Definitely not very well versed in it myself but will add it on my list of things to learn. I doubt whacking your wood carving with a chain like you do with furniture will do much good :)
@@CarvingisFun thank you. I’m trying to do it because sometimes for example a carved bear, it’s better (for me) with an antiquing treatment. Obviously I use the mix on my piece and immediately after I wipe it with a cloth, so there is only an “effect” of antique. But I’m not satisfied. If you find something better, let us know! Thank you
not really, you are adding a protective layer on the outside of the wood to help preserve and protect your work of art. Varnish is a more durable option that I usually recommend for outdoor applications as some have a UV protection additive.
It depends on the kind of stain you use. You can buy a combo product that has both stain (pigment) and varnish in it. This kind of product tends to sit mostly on the surface of the wood, though some of the pigment might soak into the wood as the product dries. These finishes can dry with high shine, a satin finish, or a matte finish (the label will tell you which to expect), but in any case there will be a layer that seals the surface of the wood, and you won't need to apply anything else. If you use a penetrating stain, it will be a very thin liquid that soaks completely into the wood, which you'll then need to finish with something that will seal the surface of the wood (varnish/polyurethane). You can also apply multiple layers of penetrating stains, and the more coats you apply, the darker the wood will get.
All that said, you can also apply multiple layers of an oil finish, with sanding and buffing after each application dries, and end up with a remarkably shiny surface on the wood, and the wood will be well protected - though you won't want to let water sit on the surface for long periods of time. That goes for a shellac finish, as well, which you'll find on a lot of vintage furniture. Shellac will turn a milky white if you let water sit on it for even a short time. I think most oil finish products are made from all or mostly linseed oil, so you have to be careful how you handle any rags you use to apply the product to the piece. (Linseed oil can spontaneously combust.)
@@gnomelandco Depends on the temp and humidity levels, but I personally let pure tung oil cure for 3 to 4 weeks just to make sure it is properly polymerized before active use. The label will sometimes say 1 - 3 days but I have found it to still be oily after a week of sitting in the garage to dry.
I'm a beginner and just finished the simple fox from your tutorial. This video was very helpful with the next steps on how to finish my little fox. Even though he is not perfect I'd like to preserve him as a nice token of my first carving.
Another great video! I made my first wood carving the other day and had no idea how to finish it! I'm so glad i found your channel! It's been very helpful 😊
You can try running the tung oil cap under hot water to loosen it, or any sort of heat. Just suggesting.
I shal try that!
My lid is yet again stuck 🙃
I'm currently using home made beeswax polish made of (roughly) one part each raw wax and vegetable turps. The turps is made from eucalyptus and so the polish smells like Vicks for a while but is gone by the day after application. I also use linseed oil for a lot of things apart from wood finishing. For food safe I use the same walnut oil I use for cooking as per a spoon carving tutorial I saw on wikihow.
Never tried making my own beeswax paste! I have raw beeswax and mineral oil but never tried mixing them.
@@CarvingisFun I just finished a figure I plan to paint with gesso and acrylics and even a bit of gold leaf. I haven't tried a full colour paintjob so I don't know how it's going to go yet.
@@CarvingisFun I saw something on the net about a guy who made his own stain by soaking iron nails in lemon juice. I haven't tried that.
Now that is a cool idea!
Thank you for your research great video
Thanks so much for the video. Very informative! Do you have any experience with soaking woodcarvings completely in oil for several days? What's your opinion on this? I know some spooncarvers swear by this, but others say a few coats with a rag is more than enough.
I've only ever applied a few coats on mine, but still see soaking them being a completely valid option. Soaking will ensure wood penetration and may result in a more sealed carving that may last longer. On the flip side, it may also take longer to completely dry.
Thanks a lot for your videos! I had a dream the other day that I was whittling, so I got a BeaverCraft knife and some supplies and followed your fox tutorial today and was quite surprised with the result. Haven't been this excited about a new hobby in a while! I've got some walnut oil that I bought to use on my wood cutting boards, would that be okay on using on whittling projects? Any experience with it?
Thanks!
Walnut oil works great for any wood carving project! I just know it can take forever to dry properly but more than gets the job done.
I'm gonna make a honey scented bee carving with the beeswax 👀
That is a great idea!
Now I want to mess with my bars of beeswax and see what I can make.
I have a question I am working on a carving my dad dead back in the seventies it was done on pine it's our family crest or coat of arms I want to keep the back part of the carving dark but I want the shield itself the higher points on the carving to really pop!! The higher points on the carving are right now just sanded without any stain so I'm just wondering if I should go with the tongue well?? The back ground the lower end on the carving is already stained a dark walnut with a polyurethane coating on it!! Thanks I appreciate any advice you give me!!😎😎😎
Fixing my grammar here real quick!! Cuz you know how this AutoText changes things up!! Meant to say working on the carving my dad did back in the seventies and also about using the tongue oil ?? One other question real quick if I did go at the tongue oil on the high points on the carving after that sets and dries really well should I put a clear coat polyurethane coating on it??
Tung oil is a great option and it does add a protective layer to the wood so no extra finish is required. Instead of using another layer of polyurethane, just add a few layers of tung oil instead. I also would use non natural tung oil as the natural tung oil has a drying time that takes weeks instead of hours.
I paint my carvings using acrylics - should I put the beeswax coat on before or after painting my carvings?
You don't have to apply a beeswax coat, but def after painting if you want to apply it.
Do you seal your wood prior to paint? If so which do you use?
I actually dont seal my wood before painting.
Great video! Have tried pine tar or birch oil?
Thanks!
I have not tried either one of those, but will give them a shot if I run across some!
How about shuolacker is that any good for the spoo. Or just like only the wood dog and others???
My only concern for anything that will be used for food is to make sure the finish is food safe and non toxic.
@@CarvingisFun THANX FOR THE COMMENT BACK HOW YOU HAVE A NICE DAY'S @ WOOD CARVING....♡
Hello, No one online, anywhere that I can find, talks about the curing or dry time using Mineral Oil on Basswood carvings. I used it liberally but not excessively. I have a piece that has been leaching oil for 3 days. Do you have any experience or knowledge about this ? Any suggestions will be appreciated very much. Thank You, Bill
Howdy!!
Mineral oil doesn't dry or cure, it will always stay wet. I do mention in this video that it doesn't harden as well.
However, most people use it primarily for carvings or wood objects that come into contact with food as it is food safe and provides a protective oil barrier that prevents food particals and juices from absorbing into the wood. Still, it does require reaplication over time depending on use.
Would you consider doing a review on Odie’s oil? I’d love to see how you think it’s backs up to these finishes. And how it works on raw and painted wood, like a carving that has some acrylic paint on it.
I have plans on making a video on painting and will consider adding it in. No idea when I would make the video though.
Is there any food safe oils that don’t need to be reapplied if I were to give spoons to people as gifts
from what I'm told, Natural Tung Oil and Natural Walnut Oil is food safe AFTER it has fully cured. But this cure time can take weeks to a month to do. Then you have to worry about nut allergies.
if i was to paint my carving would i paint them first then but some type of wood finish on them or finish then paint?
Either way works fine really. Its one of those things you can see what looks best to your preference
How do you finish very tiny details or notches like small carvings that have eyes/button holes on clothes/hair etc.? A rag may not reach in there. Doubly so with wax.
Good question! I usually end up using cotton swabs to get into the smaller areas
i just finished following your basswood fox carving video for making a little fox for my girlfriend. what do you suggest for a finish?
The easiest one I like is the beeswax paste.
@@CarvingisFun thank you!
What about linseed oil is it any good
Linseed oil is also another great option, i personally don't use it only because I already have other options to choose from on hand already.
I love Tung oil
Is there any merit to combining Danish Oil and Beeswax? (Using the oil first and applying the beeswax after it dries)
Or should you stick with one or the other
I don't see any reason why you shouldn't combine them. But yes, oil first then beeswax for some shine.
Hi, thanks for the great video! I have a question: what do you buff the beeswax and mineral oil with? Thanks!
I use a soft cloth or the disposable blue shop towels
are all of these good for hair sticks too? Esp the tung oil? I really want to make my own hair sticks and give them a good finish but I don't have anyone to ask about this lol
Not all of them, I would focus on finishes that dry hard. Beeswax paste may get soft in heat and get in your hair.
You will probably want to find a finish that hardens, like polymerized tung oil finish or a hard varnish.
Just pay attention to the drying times.
@@CarvingisFun
Ah that's so amazing thank you soo much for this advice I really appreciate it!!
Tung oil always makes me think of the dead couple in Beetlejuice lol.
Ha! Havent watched that movie in a while. Love the part where they try to "haunt" the people in the house.
Great video, very helpful for a beginner like my self. being a cheap lazy bastard the few carvings i have finished ive just used vegetable oil on them, thoughts on that? Also i think you may secretly be SerpaDesign cuz you guys sound identical lol
Thanks!
A note on vegetable oil, they do have a shelf life and will eventually go rancid over time. This will cause them to smell kinda funky, so I would probably switch over to mineral oil if you want a super cheap alternative.
Nope not SerpaDesign, but now have another YT channel to binge watch!
@@CarvingisFun Good to know thanks for the info, for sure will grab a bottle next time im at Walmart
What about water-based acrylic paints? They should have poor adhesion to the oil. What finishing coat do you recommend over water-based acrylic paints? Thank you.
Boiled Linseed oil is a very popular option. Ive seen people using this on other channels.
Hola. Alguno de estos aceites se puede mezclar con un poco de pintura color marrón para un acabado más oscuro?. Gracias.
I have never tried it, but in theory you could. I think that food dye would work better. Just mix it very thoroughly and only add a little color at a time. Some of the Danish wood oils come in darker colors too.
Can I use Watco Danish Oil Medium Walnut on basswood? Or do I need to buy the natural one instead?
Either one is fine, have at it! It probably will just be a darker color.
Hi and thanks for posting this! I do have a question about Tung Oil and was wondering what your opinion would be. I have an old wooden-handled kitchen knife that was painted but the paint has largely worn off the handle. I really like the blade and want to save it but the handle isn’t standing up well to dish washing anymore. Definitely don’t like how it’s getting left in the sink even for a bit if it gets exposed to water. I wish to sand the handle to get riding the remaining paint and preserve the knife but do not wish to repaint it, just leave it natural. My question, is sanding and applying Tung Oil sufficient? Will a Tung Oil treated handle stand up to repeated washing or is some other sealant needed? Btw I hand wash rather than using a dishwasher. I have thought of using a marine spar varnish but I think that might make the handle tacky. Haven’t used Tung Oil before and don’t want to get it if it’s the wrong thing. Any suggestions? Thank You!
Interesting, but I agree the varnish will get tacky.
If you use tung oil, I imagine it will hold up with multiple layers after sanding the handle down first.
As to applying, I would apply the first 1 or 2 layers using some sort of thinner with the tung oil so it can penetrate deep into the wood. then follow the directions on the container to see how frequently to apply a new coat and for it to completely polymerize.
I do have a feeling that many people use linseed oil in this case, maybe it will be a faster and better option if it is something you want to try?
@@CarvingisFun Thank You for getting back! That sounds good for the Tung oil, hadn’t even considered using it with thinner! That said I will definitely look into linseed oil, hadn’t thought of that either but faster and better sounds great! Liked the video and some of your other ones and subscribed. Thanks again!! 😁
so if I'm simply wanting to finish and protect whittled figurines (no need to be food safe), is beeswax paste the way to go?
if so, could I apply the beeswax paste and then paint them?
I personally like beeswax paste myself because it is easy to apply, not a chemical, and smells nice. But it isn't very durable. If you wanted to paint, I would do so before applying the beeswax.
Another option that is popular is using linseed oil. Keep in mind that boiled linseed oil can be flamable so dry out any rags you used to apply with first before disposing of them. But you can paint with acrylic over the linseed oil
Another option is watercolor, I personally like this rout and is easy to work with.
Linseed oil is similar to tung?
I believe Tung oil ends up having a bit of a harder finish over linseed oil, but linseed oil has more of a yellowish color and dries faster.
Do you know if the beeswax method works on figures that have been painted or does the paint avoid the beeswax to fully coat and absorb into the wood?
If the figure is already painted, the beeswax wont absorb into the wood. However. The beeswax will still add a thin protective layer to keep the paint from getting damaged.
I was waiting for something like that. Thank you.
Can I suggest you to make a video about antiquing techniques? I found the liquid bitumen, but it’s not the right one if you have also to paint your work.
I’m trying with lindseed oil and some brown oil colour. Do you have some techniques? Thank you
Welcome!
I have only ever watched my aunt do some antiquing on cabinets and furniture. Definitely not very well versed in it myself but will add it on my list of things to learn. I doubt whacking your wood carving with a chain like you do with furniture will do much good :)
@@CarvingisFun thank you.
I’m trying to do it because sometimes for example a carved bear, it’s better (for me) with an antiquing treatment.
Obviously I use the mix on my piece and immediately after I wipe it with a cloth, so there is only an “effect” of antique.
But I’m not satisfied. If you find something better, let us know! Thank you
@@Alberto1993 Folk Art Antiquing Medium. I use #811. Just paint it on, then wipe off excess. Stuff is amazing.
I'll have to keep an eye out for that stuff on my next trip to the craft store, thanks for sharing!
@@CarvingisFun yep, thanks for all the great videos! I really enjoy them
love your videos, but is there a difference between sealing and staining? and where does varnish come into the mix?
not really, you are adding a protective layer on the outside of the wood to help preserve and protect your work of art.
Varnish is a more durable option that I usually recommend for outdoor applications as some have a UV protection additive.
It depends on the kind of stain you use. You can buy a combo product that has both stain (pigment) and varnish in it. This kind of product tends to sit mostly on the surface of the wood, though some of the pigment might soak into the wood as the product dries. These finishes can dry with high shine, a satin finish, or a matte finish (the label will tell you which to expect), but in any case there will be a layer that seals the surface of the wood, and you won't need to apply anything else. If you use a penetrating stain, it will be a very thin liquid that soaks completely into the wood, which you'll then need to finish with something that will seal the surface of the wood (varnish/polyurethane). You can also apply multiple layers of penetrating stains, and the more coats you apply, the darker the wood will get.
All that said, you can also apply multiple layers of an oil finish, with sanding and buffing after each application dries, and end up with a remarkably shiny surface on the wood, and the wood will be well protected - though you won't want to let water sit on the surface for long periods of time. That goes for a shellac finish, as well, which you'll find on a lot of vintage furniture. Shellac will turn a milky white if you let water sit on it for even a short time. I think most oil finish products are made from all or mostly linseed oil, so you have to be careful how you handle any rags you use to apply the product to the piece. (Linseed oil can spontaneously combust.)
Tung oil is also food safe
I believe it is too, but have met enough people who think otherwise.
@@CarvingisFun I'm new to woodworking and mostly making spoons/scoops right now and after research I went with pure tung oil. I hope its safe !
My views are that if you use pure, all natural, tung oil with no solvents and alliw for a full cure its fine.
@@CarvingisFun about how long would you think for a full cure?
@@gnomelandco Depends on the temp and humidity levels, but I personally let pure tung oil cure for 3 to 4 weeks just to make sure it is properly polymerized before active use.
The label will sometimes say 1 - 3 days but I have found it to still be oily after a week of sitting in the garage to dry.