I have one. Installed CR-Touch, improved the fans, upgraded the extruder to the metal version, and upgraded the heatbreak to slice engineering. Also running Klipper. Works very well
my cousin has one its his first machine, I built it for him and have BL touch just sitting as a spare. I'm curious where you found a touch probe firmware
Sounds like a good upgrade path. I went all-out and put a Sprite hotend on mine. It's overkill, and adds some ringing, but I'll be able to get 25mm³/s+ flow rates
@@NathanBuildsRobotsit's just a better firmware vs marlin. I love to control it remotely also, and so much easier to configure. I don't print fast, it's just the robustness really.
@@gitss7367 he is running Klipper, that is the "firmware" and you configure the probe as needed and on the fly. Do you really need a BL Touch on such a small bed? A good manual leveling is all I have ever needed. I don't do much "higher" temp printing with it.
My 11 year old has a heavily modded ender 2 pro with a 4.2.7 board, an ender 3 v2 screen, a CR touch, dual 50x10 blowers and mriscoc firmware. It was a journey getting there but would love to share.
@@NathanBuildsRobots wanted to make sure the mriscoc firmware was compatible. That firmware will also allow you to change the build volume to accommodate the small printer. The weak point is the power supply. Got a 16 minute benchy but when putting the acceleration up to 2000mm/s the power supply will black out immediately after the purge pass.
@@kennyjandreau1758 good to know. I always spec out power supplies with at least 25% overhead during worst case loading. Seems kind of crazy that they would spec a power supply that would black out, even if you're pushing it a little harder than the stock machine. Crazy, but not surprising from Creality.
Great video. Been using mine for a week. It’s my first 3d printer and really impressed with the print quality. It is definitely noisy. I haven’t used a 3d printer before. Gonna build an enclosure to help with the noise. Thanks for pointing out the fire hazard issues. I won’t be leaving this printer unattended while printing.
The part cooling fan can be quieted down by simply cutting the plastic cover. The small openings for the air to pass through make it kind of whistle or give off a high pitched noise. You can also print the minimal fan shroud which, for me, really quieted things down, even with the stock fans. I have this printer on my desk at work and nobody around me says they can even hear it. There's an ABL mount for the minimal shroud, as well, but it might just be for the BL Touch.
Solid advice! I will try cutting out the grates next time i've got excess fan noise. The other thing is - creality quality and performance varies from printer to printer. I'm pretty sure they are made in many factories across China. So some may perform better, or use quieter fans than others.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I totally agree. Some have the 4.2.3 board in them, some have this 2.4.S4 board, apparently. Seems to be hit and miss on which one you get. Kind of like the F1/F4 boards in the S1's. I saw that you've done what I ultimately wanted to do to mine and make it an Ender 2 S1 with the Sprite, etc. Nice work!
You can add a cr touch to the ender 2 pro. I did it, you do have to print the bracket to hold the cr touch on the hotend, BUT, it's super easy. You will have to flash different firmware. It's not normally available on creality's website. I found download links both on the thingaverse page for the bracket (in comments) and on the ender 2 pro subreddit, plus calibration instructions. Another must!!! PEI plate and silicone bed spacers instead of springs, great quality first layer and never gotta re level the bed! Great video!!! Need more content for this printer.
Thats too funny. I looked at the mainboard and there is the spot of the CR-touch, so mechanical and electrical install should be straightforward. Wish they were more on top of things with their firmware for new releases! I have a sprite hotend on there now, but left the CR-Touch off.
@@NathanBuildsRobots oh wow really!? I've been curious as to if a sprite direct drive could be installed on that. What did you do about the grounding wire going from the hotend to the board? And how did you calibrate it, ie settings changes? Sorry got me super stoked now that I know it can be done. I'm with you on wishing they'd get there crap together, would you like a link for the firmware download?Someone has it on a Google drive link.
@@johnnyhellfire6 I swapped it in with no firmware. I reverse engineered my own breakout board so I know what all the pins do. The last 2 wires are ground, I'll show you in the next video! Technically the ground is not necessary, I think it's required as a safety regulation. So yeah, get subscribed! 😀
@@NathanBuildsRobots way ahead of you lol all subbed up, I can't wait to check it out. I put an one of those sprite all metal hotend direct drive on my v2, looks like that can pop in there. But good to know on the ground wire. I was confused as to why they needed one lol
Going with the futurama crew as naming guide, I called my ender 2 pro Nibbler :D It sits next to my pc on my desk and is printing anything small that I need quick. Upgraded hotend fan to noctua, its a dream^^ Also metal extruder arm, creality should be shunned for selling plastic extruders for years
It's more satisfying to print small parts on a small printer. When I print a little pen cap or something on my 300x300 printer it looks silly. Plus this thing uses less power so is more efficient!
My secondary printer is an Ender 2 Pro. I purchased it on the recommendation of CHEP. I had a few growing pains with it but eventually figured out the best way to level the bed and it has been turning out some incredibly high-quality prints for quite a while now. I would highly recommend it to anyone looking for a small format printer or a secondary printer to their larger format printer.
I get a bit frustrated with people's gripes about no crimped ferrules. There are two use-cases for crimped ferrules: 1. Amateur assemblers who leave strands of wires poking out of the connection hold. (The shroud is more idiot proof) 2. Cheap connectors with spring-leaf terminals that deform in use. When reusing, you need to pry the spring leaf open again. That's it! If it's a factory assembled circuitboard, there's a fair assumption that users aren't going to be swapping wires in and out. Regarding the fan noise, yes, that would annoy me too. Fan blade design makes a big difference to this. Also things like blade count and motor support strut count (Hint:use prime numbers on both to to reduce harmonics)
I also think it is overblown, but would still like to see it on the main power connector and the bed. www.researchgate.net/publication/226464542_Creep_deformation_characteristics_of_tin_and_tin-based_electronic_solder_alloys Tin solder will creep over time, but at the temperatures and stresses of typical installations I think it is a non-issue. However, 3D printer manufacturers don't have the best quality control. If a connector is loose from the factory, it could generate enough heat to cause creep. In any professional applications I have pensions seen or worked on, crimped fertile seems are used. They are cheap insurance and required by regulation according to datasheets and regulations. Most printers come with a 350W power supply. 350W at 24V is about 14A. Most terminal blocks are rated for 9-14A, and best practice is to size 50% over. So it's not like these are low- power connections, and significant hearing may occur. I would wager that many printers are using components that are underrated for their application (the Chinese philosophy of "If it looks like it works, sell it") I appreciate your comment though, made me look some stuff up! It's always good to question your assumptions.
For fan noise, I have tried about 30 different 40mm axial fans. None come close to Noctua in overall performance and low noise. Some fans were super quiet, until I mounted them on a duct, then the backpressure caused a huge amount of noise. Noctuas seem to operate quietly across a wide range of conditions. There are a lot of small details in their design that I appreciate. Also, it's not necessarily the dB value that is the enemy. Sometimes the noctua is the same volume or louder, but sounds quieter/less annoying. Probably has to do with the particular frequencies/ harmonics that are being generated. Either that or it's the placebo effect and confirmation bias!
@@NathanBuildsRobots I've had Extruder connections fail before. I think the issue is like you say, connector rating. I don't think ferrules make a lot of difference here. If a connector is abused in rating then it gets hot in use and this encourages copper flow, which loosens copper in the terminal. These connectors are also prime candidates for dry jointing through the PCB connection, both due to load and that securely tightening the screws imposes a high load on the through hole pin which can be under-rated. This can be a small start to even more heat at the terminal. standard connectors clip together in twos and threes, I dislike the 2's, especially installed by themselves as they are much more easily twisted around in the process of tightening to an appropriate level for the wires fitted. Connections should all be retightened after a few minutes to account for copper flow, you will find it easy to turn the screws a bit more.
@@fluiditynz I would like to know more about connectors. They are components that are often taken for granted. I read in the datasheet that they don't recommend using 2 or 3 pin terminal blocks, 4+ is preferred. If you must use 2 pin blocks they say to hold the terminal while Tightening so it's not twisting the board connections.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Yes Nathan, I've worked in the Electrician industry, Elevator industry, Security industry and years ago I ran my own hardware and software design business for 4 years. Applying high torque to a 2-pin connector terminal screw will twist both pins and the whole connector around so I agree. 3 pin connectors are much much better and I've never noticed it above 4 pins, I don't think I've seen it for 3 pins either. Spring leaf terminals are very budget but they still have a use case, where a product is factory assembled and not expected to require significant repairs over it's life cycle, that's most consumer products these days and the cost difference between the two is very significant. Rising clamp terminals are definitely a superior product, basically they form a rectangular tube with two shortening walls. For mains connections, strand count is important for twisting. If there are only a few strands then screwing up a terminal will pinch the strands where they cross. For multi stranded wires though, this is not normally an issue and the twisting is useful to keep all strands together with none spiking out. It's good general electrical practice to fill the terminal as much as possible before tightening to reduce the point loading on the cores from the tightening. This can involve folding the ends over neatly. Twisting serves a triple purpose: tidying the strands together, thickening the connected mass and forming a semi cross grain that the connector can lock on to better, it's harder to then pull individual strands out.
Cost effective printer, and its upgradeable. For upgrades I'd highly recommend a PEI/PEX bed: Much improved bed adhesion, print removal and most importantly, its easier to eyeball bed adhesion with a hard, nearly smooth level, non-compressible surface. It's very cost effective. For any further upgrades, an all-metal hotend like the MicroSwiss NG is next.
One thing I'll add for bed leveling is I was able to find a file on a helpful TH-cam channel that sent me to thingiverse I believe. It makes bed leveling on the Ender 2 Pro much easier. It's pretty easy to find as I recall. Wham Bam Systems is the TH-cam channel.
Someone was asking me about that. I bought a couple replacement cables, they are available for under $20 one other possibility is to use the modder board, install it in the base, or on the x-axis where the X axis motor goes, then run “normal” cables out to the hotend to handle the high flexing portion of the cable.
prusa really is starting to fall off. theyre stuck making overpriced printers that can barely keep up with all the mainstream brands that are half the price. if i use creality as an example, the prusa xl is 1999 bucks, meanwhile the ender 5 plus can make parts of comparible quality at 650 bucks, not even a third of the price. same goes for the rumored mk4, with the ender 3 s1 pro released already you can have an extremely good printer for 400 bucks, not to mention you dont have to assemble each part and theres not 3d printed parts holding it together. even has a titanium heat break. prusa needs to chill out with their pricing since theyre hardly distinguishable from the competition aside from their orange color.
I know I bought it a year ago for £140 UK I have now serviced it to update all the features and the printer itself it only cost me £100 so it’s no brainer. First V4.2.7 board which the XYZE AXES wires are recersed and need to buy XH and crimp new wires as the originals are are 5 pin originally and smaller pins. Need 4 pin XH connectors and flip the wires 180. I got the 32bit 32gb( there is a64gb which is more expensive) v4.2.7 as I wanted it to be future proof. Please If you have your printer enclosed like mine PLEASE add a fan for the POWER supply as it uses the casing for heat sink and heat up the frames and motors on the printer. Should have seen that before hand. Use found out when I wanted to swap the fans for silent ones. For fans I got 8x4010 fans as it was £9 and 24v sleeve ones which are almost Silent. And wire them to fan1 port for them to be on ONLY when printing. I have now got 5 fans setup on the printer. My printer is enclosed in a warm house. So I completely removed the tray and bottom cover for ventilation and access. I opened and closed the bottom about 20 times in 2 weeks . So I finally had to execute the decision. I have added silicon to the four corners of bed, this allows long maintenance on bed level. And the Capricorn Bowden tube. no brainer as it is fluid and heat resistant to high temps. Dual gear extrusion its no brainer as it is boden tube setup and needs more grip. You do NOT need to upgrade the belts, but I found it for £7 for 5meters of 4 layer brown belt which is no brainer for-me. However the original has fiber ones and its barley scratched from 1 year of use. I have diy hacked a filament run-out sensor with a limit switch. I have a 3D touch but need to set it up. And thinking about putting the screen over to the other side-with an extension lead for SD card. I wish there was an option to upgrade to a full usb terminal. I found these 13 core 21Amp wire for really cheap 1M for £7 so yeah I may hack the wiring on the hot end. The way to go about it is with lever wire connectors that is modular and best easy connections with easy maintenance. I may need to design and print a support for that. And this will be a no brainer as I got fedd up with wiring and long sleeve removal. A free upgrade is putting filament down the wire sleeves to support and guide the wires especially the bed wiring as it will grab the motor. Also just remove the casing around the hot end it just limits air flow and adds weight. Just used magnets to gold the fan to the blower fan. And connect the fans to the fan2 port. Any other upgrade that I will invest in is the spring steel bed sheet double sided. All ball bearings to clear or red, visually its more Pleasing with the printers ready accents. Might try the pully bearings as they have a gap in-between and may help be shock abbrobent or hust slimmer for speed. I am able to print 300mm/s with good quality as my good as my first rabbit print.
I think it will have some issues with vibration at very high speeds. The single column design can twist, so the dual column design is much more structurally efficient and should be able to handle much higher accelerations. its probably something like 10x stiffer having a second support.
Good point! But I do like the drawer. I am thinking of doing some prints around town, and having a spot to store the basic tools will be quite handy. if it gets bumped and something comes loose while transporting it, allen keys, wrench, and clippers can fix a lot of small problems.
@@willcubemakes I played it for a little while, but there is some great content on YT on TF2. I don't play anymore but watch for fun. Thanks to those videos I know way more about the game mechanics than I did when I actually played the game
If they sent me one for review I'd love to check it out, its just out of my price range. I got my Ender 2 Pro on sale for $108 all-in. Pusa Mini is $511.64 with the cheapest shipping, and they rarely go on sale. These printers are close in terms of size and print quality, but miles apart in price. Prusa offers a better user experience for beginners - having a great ABL system and a better interface. Probably heats up faster, and has more professional wiring. That price tho... It's a barrier to entry for people who might really like to get into 3D printing.
I have one. Installed CR-Touch, improved the fans, upgraded the extruder to the metal version, and upgraded the heatbreak to slice engineering. Also running Klipper. Works very well
my cousin has one its his first machine, I built it for him and have BL touch just sitting as a spare. I'm curious where you found a touch probe firmware
Sounds like a good upgrade path. I went all-out and put a Sprite hotend on mine. It's overkill, and adds some ringing, but I'll be able to get 25mm³/s+ flow rates
Also curious how much Klipper helps on a machine like this
@@NathanBuildsRobotsit's just a better firmware vs marlin. I love to control it remotely also, and so much easier to configure. I don't print fast, it's just the robustness really.
@@gitss7367 he is running Klipper, that is the "firmware" and you configure the probe as needed and on the fly. Do you really need a BL Touch on such a small bed? A good manual leveling is all I have ever needed. I don't do much "higher" temp printing with it.
I have one. All I did were new springs and a pei sheet. It's been printing beautifully with zero issues.
That seems to be a common theme among Ender 2 owners!
24:00 How often are you wobbeling at the display?????
All the time!
My 11 year old has a heavily modded ender 2 pro with a 4.2.7 board, an ender 3 v2 screen, a CR touch, dual 50x10 blowers and mriscoc firmware. It was a journey getting there but would love to share.
Interesting, that thing probably looks like a mini Ender 3 V2.
Why change the board out though? Did you have an issue with the first one?
@@NathanBuildsRobots wanted to make sure the mriscoc firmware was compatible. That firmware will also allow you to change the build volume to accommodate the small printer. The weak point is the power supply. Got a 16 minute benchy but when putting the acceleration up to 2000mm/s the power supply will black out immediately after the purge pass.
@@kennyjandreau1758 good to know. I always spec out power supplies with at least 25% overhead during worst case loading.
Seems kind of crazy that they would spec a power supply that would black out, even if you're pushing it a little harder than the stock machine. Crazy, but not surprising from Creality.
Do you need firmware update for the screen or isit plug and play?
Great video. Been using mine for a week. It’s my first 3d printer and really impressed with the print quality. It is definitely noisy. I haven’t used a 3d printer before. Gonna build an enclosure to help with the noise. Thanks for pointing out the fire hazard issues. I won’t be leaving this printer unattended while printing.
Always a good idea to keep an eye on the printer.
The noise is a bit of an issue, but it can be fixed if you don't mind taking the printer apart.
The part cooling fan can be quieted down by simply cutting the plastic cover. The small openings for the air to pass through make it kind of whistle or give off a high pitched noise. You can also print the minimal fan shroud which, for me, really quieted things down, even with the stock fans. I have this printer on my desk at work and nobody around me says they can even hear it. There's an ABL mount for the minimal shroud, as well, but it might just be for the BL Touch.
Solid advice! I will try cutting out the grates next time i've got excess fan noise.
The other thing is - creality quality and performance varies from printer to printer. I'm pretty sure they are made in many factories across China. So some may perform better, or use quieter fans than others.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I totally agree. Some have the 4.2.3 board in them, some have this 2.4.S4 board, apparently. Seems to be hit and miss on which one you get. Kind of like the F1/F4 boards in the S1's. I saw that you've done what I ultimately wanted to do to mine and make it an Ender 2 S1 with the Sprite, etc. Nice work!
You can add a cr touch to the ender 2 pro. I did it, you do have to print the bracket to hold the cr touch on the hotend, BUT, it's super easy. You will have to flash different firmware. It's not normally available on creality's website. I found download links both on the thingaverse page for the bracket (in comments) and on the ender 2 pro subreddit, plus calibration instructions.
Another must!!! PEI plate and silicone bed spacers instead of springs, great quality first layer and never gotta re level the bed!
Great video!!! Need more content for this printer.
Thats too funny. I looked at the mainboard and there is the spot of the CR-touch, so mechanical and electrical install should be straightforward. Wish they were more on top of things with their firmware for new releases! I have a sprite hotend on there now, but left the CR-Touch off.
@@NathanBuildsRobots oh wow really!? I've been curious as to if a sprite direct drive could be installed on that. What did you do about the grounding wire going from the hotend to the board? And how did you calibrate it, ie settings changes? Sorry got me super stoked now that I know it can be done.
I'm with you on wishing they'd get there crap together, would you like a link for the firmware download?Someone has it on a Google drive link.
@@johnnyhellfire6 I swapped it in with no firmware. I reverse engineered my own breakout board so I know what all the pins do. The last 2 wires are ground, I'll show you in the next video! Technically the ground is not necessary, I think it's required as a safety regulation.
So yeah, get subscribed! 😀
@@NathanBuildsRobots way ahead of you lol all subbed up, I can't wait to check it out. I put an one of those sprite all metal hotend direct drive on my v2, looks like that can pop in there. But good to know on the ground wire. I was confused as to why they needed one lol
Going with the futurama crew as naming guide, I called my ender 2 pro Nibbler :D
It sits next to my pc on my desk and is printing anything small that I need quick.
Upgraded hotend fan to noctua, its a dream^^
Also metal extruder arm, creality should be shunned for selling plastic extruders for years
Love mine. Nice addition to the printer I already have
It's more satisfying to print small parts on a small printer.
When I print a little pen cap or something on my 300x300 printer it looks silly. Plus this thing uses less power so is more efficient!
Great video, thank you sir 🙏
My secondary printer is an Ender 2 Pro. I purchased it on the recommendation of CHEP. I had a few growing pains with it but eventually figured out the best way to level the bed and it has been turning out some incredibly high-quality prints for quite a while now. I would highly recommend it to anyone looking for a small format printer or a secondary printer to their larger format printer.
It is a fun little printer
What is the size of the hotend fan? 40x10 mm?
Yes
I get a bit frustrated with people's gripes about no crimped ferrules. There are two use-cases for crimped ferrules:
1. Amateur assemblers who leave strands of wires poking out of the connection hold. (The shroud is more idiot proof)
2. Cheap connectors with spring-leaf terminals that deform in use. When reusing, you need to pry the spring leaf open again.
That's it! If it's a factory assembled circuitboard, there's a fair assumption that users aren't going to be swapping wires in and out.
Regarding the fan noise, yes, that would annoy me too. Fan blade design makes a big difference to this. Also things like blade count and motor support strut count (Hint:use prime numbers on both to to reduce harmonics)
I also think it is overblown, but would still like to see it on the main power connector and the bed.
www.researchgate.net/publication/226464542_Creep_deformation_characteristics_of_tin_and_tin-based_electronic_solder_alloys
Tin solder will creep over time, but at the temperatures and stresses of typical installations I think it is a non-issue.
However, 3D printer manufacturers don't have the best quality control. If a connector is loose from the factory, it could generate enough heat to cause creep.
In any professional applications I have pensions seen or worked on, crimped fertile seems are used. They are cheap insurance and required by regulation according to datasheets and regulations.
Most printers come with a 350W power supply. 350W at 24V is about 14A. Most terminal blocks are rated for 9-14A, and best practice is to size 50% over. So it's not like these are low- power connections, and significant hearing may occur. I would wager that many printers are using components that are underrated for their application (the Chinese philosophy of "If it looks like it works, sell it")
I appreciate your comment though, made me look some stuff up! It's always good to question your assumptions.
For fan noise, I have tried about 30 different 40mm axial fans. None come close to Noctua in overall performance and low noise. Some fans were super quiet, until I mounted them on a duct, then the backpressure caused a huge amount of noise. Noctuas seem to operate quietly across a wide range of conditions. There are a lot of small details in their design that I appreciate.
Also, it's not necessarily the dB value that is the enemy. Sometimes the noctua is the same volume or louder, but sounds quieter/less annoying. Probably has to do with the particular frequencies/ harmonics that are being generated. Either that or it's the placebo effect and confirmation bias!
@@NathanBuildsRobots I've had Extruder connections fail before. I think the issue is like you say, connector rating. I don't think ferrules make a lot of difference here. If a connector is abused in rating then it gets hot in use and this encourages copper flow, which loosens copper in the terminal. These connectors are also prime candidates for dry jointing through the PCB connection, both due to load and that securely tightening the screws imposes a high load on the through hole pin which can be under-rated. This can be a small start to even more heat at the terminal. standard connectors clip together in twos and threes, I dislike the 2's, especially installed by themselves as they are much more easily twisted around in the process of tightening to an appropriate level for the wires fitted. Connections should all be retightened after a few minutes to account for copper flow, you will find it easy to turn the screws a bit more.
@@fluiditynz I would like to know more about connectors. They are components that are often taken for granted.
I read in the datasheet that they don't recommend using 2 or 3 pin terminal blocks, 4+ is preferred.
If you must use 2 pin blocks they say to hold the terminal while Tightening so it's not twisting the board connections.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Yes Nathan, I've worked in the Electrician industry, Elevator industry, Security industry and years ago I ran my own hardware and software design business for 4 years. Applying high torque to a 2-pin connector terminal screw will twist both pins and the whole connector around so I agree. 3 pin connectors are much much better and I've never noticed it above 4 pins, I don't think I've seen it for 3 pins either. Spring leaf terminals are very budget but they still have a use case, where a product is factory assembled and not expected to require significant repairs over it's life cycle, that's most consumer products these days and the cost difference between the two is very significant. Rising clamp terminals are definitely a superior product, basically they form a rectangular tube with two shortening walls. For mains connections, strand count is important for twisting. If there are only a few strands then screwing up a terminal will pinch the strands where they cross. For multi stranded wires though, this is not normally an issue and the twisting is useful to keep all strands together with none spiking out. It's good general electrical practice to fill the terminal as much as possible before tightening to reduce the point loading on the cores from the tightening. This can involve folding the ends over neatly. Twisting serves a triple purpose: tidying the strands together, thickening the connected mass and forming a semi cross grain that the connector can lock on to better, it's harder to then pull individual strands out.
Great review, thank you! Is this Ender 2 would be suitable for some small lithophane projects?
Yes, I think it would be great for that.
Cost effective printer, and its upgradeable. For upgrades I'd highly recommend a PEI/PEX bed: Much improved bed adhesion, print removal and most importantly, its easier to eyeball bed adhesion with a hard, nearly smooth level, non-compressible surface. It's very cost effective. For any further upgrades, an all-metal hotend like the MicroSwiss NG is next.
I have the original Ender 2 and it holds the award for my most reliable machine!
Less parts = less that can go wrong!
One thing I'll add for bed leveling is I was able to find a file on a helpful TH-cam channel that sent me to thingiverse I believe. It makes bed leveling on the Ender 2 Pro much easier. It's pretty easy to find as I recall. Wham Bam Systems is the TH-cam channel.
Is there a better ribbon cable that could be bought separately that doesn’t have creality’s flaws?
Someone was asking me about that. I bought a couple replacement cables, they are available for under $20
one other possibility is to use the modder board, install it in the base, or on the x-axis where the X axis motor goes, then run “normal” cables out to the hotend to handle the high flexing portion of the cable.
Looking forward to the MODS
prusa really is starting to fall off. theyre stuck making overpriced printers that can barely keep up with all the mainstream brands that are half the price. if i use creality as an example, the prusa xl is 1999 bucks, meanwhile the ender 5 plus can make parts of comparible quality at 650 bucks, not even a third of the price. same goes for the rumored mk4, with the ender 3 s1 pro released already you can have an extremely good printer for 400 bucks, not to mention you dont have to assemble each part and theres not 3d printed parts holding it together. even has a titanium heat break. prusa needs to chill out with their pricing since theyre hardly distinguishable from the competition aside from their orange color.
I know I bought it a year ago for £140 UK
I have now serviced it to update all the features and the printer itself it only cost me £100 so it’s no brainer.
First V4.2.7 board which the XYZE AXES wires are recersed and need to buy XH and crimp new wires as the originals are are 5 pin originally and smaller pins. Need 4 pin XH connectors and flip the wires 180.
I got the 32bit 32gb( there is a64gb which is more expensive) v4.2.7 as I wanted it to be future proof.
Please If you have your printer enclosed like mine PLEASE add a fan for the POWER supply as it uses the casing for heat sink and heat up the frames and motors on the printer. Should have seen that before hand. Use found out when I wanted to swap the fans for silent ones.
For fans I got 8x4010 fans as it was £9 and 24v sleeve ones which are almost
Silent. And wire them to fan1 port for them to be on ONLY when printing. I have now got 5 fans setup on the printer. My printer is enclosed in a warm house. So I completely removed the tray and bottom cover for ventilation and access. I opened and closed the bottom about 20 times in 2 weeks . So I finally had to execute the decision.
I have added silicon to the four corners of bed, this allows long maintenance on bed level. And the Capricorn Bowden tube. no brainer as it is fluid and heat resistant to high temps.
Dual gear extrusion its no brainer as it is boden tube setup and needs more grip.
You do NOT need to upgrade the belts, but I found it for £7 for 5meters of 4 layer brown belt which is no brainer for-me. However the original has fiber ones and its barley scratched from 1 year of use.
I have diy hacked a filament run-out sensor with a limit switch. I have a 3D touch but need to set it up. And thinking about putting the screen over to the other side-with an extension lead for SD card. I wish there was an option to upgrade to a full usb terminal. I found these 13 core 21Amp wire for really cheap 1M for £7 so yeah I may hack the wiring on the hot end. The way to go about it is with lever wire connectors that is modular and best easy connections with easy maintenance. I may need to design and print a support for that. And this will be a no brainer as I got fedd up with wiring and long sleeve removal.
A free upgrade is putting filament down the wire sleeves to support and guide the wires especially the bed wiring as it will grab the motor. Also just remove the casing around the hot end it just limits air flow and adds weight. Just used magnets to gold the fan to the blower fan. And connect the fans to the fan2 port.
Any other upgrade that I will invest in is the spring steel bed sheet double sided. All ball bearings to clear or red, visually its more Pleasing with the printers ready accents. Might try the pully bearings as they have a gap in-between and may help be shock abbrobent or hust slimmer for speed.
I am able to print 300mm/s with good quality as my good as my first rabbit print.
Where did you find it for $108?
I think it was shop.creality.com
In the discord we share sale prices when they come up, may want to check it out
This would be great to have to print printer parts with. Probably flies with klipper on it too.
I think it will have some issues with vibration at very high speeds. The single column design can twist, so the dual column design is much more structurally efficient and should be able to handle much higher accelerations. its probably something like 10x stiffer having a second support.
That drawer looks pretty useless, they could have stored the screen there...
Good point! But I do like the drawer.
I am thinking of doing some prints around town, and having a spot to store the basic tools will be quite handy. if it gets bumped and something comes loose while transporting it, allen keys, wrench, and clippers can fix a lot of small problems.
Kingroon KP3S
I'll read up on those. I've never used a kingroon
3D printesr, in general, is not IKEA.
First of all, it doesn't come in a flat-pack format
next printer - Kingroon KP3s
I'll watch some reviews on it. Seems like an interesting little printer. Might pick one up as my next project!
I would even walk next to it. I don’t like printer in which I cannot service I should admit that I do not like linear bearings.
Not the ubersaw!!!!
TF2 weapons are so cartoony and perfect for thumbnail art!
@@NathanBuildsRobots I love TF2, it's really amazing how many people like it aswell and provide subtle references to it!
@@willcubemakes I played it for a little while, but there is some great content on YT on TF2. I don't play anymore but watch for fun. Thanks to those videos I know way more about the game mechanics than I did when I actually played the game
is ok for the price
I really like the form-factor. There are much more expensive printers that aren't quite as fun to use.
No way it’s a Prusa mini+ killer. Not even close.
If they sent me one for review I'd love to check it out, its just out of my price range.
I got my Ender 2 Pro on sale for $108 all-in.
Pusa Mini is $511.64 with the cheapest shipping, and they rarely go on sale.
These printers are close in terms of size and print quality, but miles apart in price.
Prusa offers a better user experience for beginners - having a great ABL system and a better interface. Probably heats up faster, and has more professional wiring. That price tho... It's a barrier to entry for people who might really like to get into 3D printing.