I think that going all in on SMD and making as many components SMD as you can would make assembly a lot easier. Interested to see how your project develops.
One thing that I noticed while repairing phones is that many "secondary connections", like speakers, use pogo pins or regular springs. This may solve your hardwired tx/rx problems between your board and the pico; as well as adding modularity.
I think I would consider giving the board it's own enclosure so I do not have to fit it inside the mouse. But that is merely a personal preference so I don't have to solder smd components. I've ordered a new Microsoft Basic Mouse to see of this power saving modification can be done on that as well.
I am using hand-soldering optimized solder pads and large 1206 SMD components so they are not too tricky to solder. Ah nice, please share the current readings before/after the power mod! I am trying to build a database of all compatible mice on the project's github page.
Look at using something like an MCP100 supervisory circuit to reset the Pico. the MCP100 is available in multiple voltage ranges, so pick one that is very close to 5v, so you get a reset immediately after unplugging. Another trick is to add bleeder resistors. You could probably gate the bleeder resistor with a diode, to avoid current draw while plugged in.
Thanks for the suggestions! I think I found a good enough solution: I am now using a PNP transistor that acts as a capacitor bleeder when the power is low.
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I think that going all in on SMD and making as many components SMD as you can would make assembly a lot easier. Interested to see how your project develops.
One thing that I noticed while repairing phones is that many "secondary connections", like speakers, use pogo pins or regular springs. This may solve your hardwired tx/rx problems between your board and the pico; as well as adding modularity.
Fantastic and useful project!
I think I would consider giving the board it's own enclosure so I do not have to fit it inside the mouse.
But that is merely a personal preference so I don't have to solder smd components.
I've ordered a new Microsoft Basic Mouse to see of this power saving modification can be done on that as well.
I am using hand-soldering optimized solder pads and large 1206 SMD components so they are not too tricky to solder.
Ah nice, please share the current readings before/after the power mod! I am trying to build a database of all compatible mice on the project's github page.
Look at using something like an MCP100 supervisory circuit to reset the Pico. the MCP100 is available in multiple voltage ranges, so pick one that is very close to 5v, so you get a reset immediately after unplugging. Another trick is to add bleeder resistors. You could probably gate the bleeder resistor with a diode, to avoid current draw while plugged in.
Thanks for the suggestions! I think I found a good enough solution: I am now using a PNP transistor that acts as a capacitor bleeder when the power is low.
@@scrap_computing The MCP100 is a single TO-92 device that does it all.
The best solution would be not using Raspberry Pi Pico board, but RP2040 with necessary components on custom designed PCB.
why not imu (3acc + 3gyro) + table distance led+sensor = no ball/image mouse, just the imu as the mouse, led+sensor is to detect lift-off
no moving parts mouse, you could also use a touch pad on the top/bottom sides, detecting finger/table sliding
That would be a cool project!
Nice one, but why don't you just come up with your own design for the mouse housing? Or maybe even a full-blown mouse...
I think the next version will fit nicely. It's much smaller than this one so we won't have any issues with the housing.
Cant you use an arduino mini they got a much smaller footprint.
Or even an ATtiny85 and bit-bang the whole thing. even better if you find a PS/2 optical mouse and that reduces the complexity of the USB.
Any board should work as long as it supports USB host. You don't need that much processing power.
Then he can also use the pico's controller directly as you can buy it alone.