This is one of like 3 videos that actually tells the viewer anything about how the top systems in these cars work. I've been hunting for like a year in my efforts to figure out what makes them tick besides the obvious hydraulics that we all know about. This is probably the best explanation I've seen, by far, and it's going to be instrumental in my efforts to repair my top system- though I'm going to be removing the entire harness so that my whizz kid brother in law can do the soldering for me.
Glad this could be helpful for you! I seriously considered redoing the entire harness because (as you can see) I had to dig pretty deep to find that exposed wire. If it acts up again, I'll probably go that route but so far so good. Best of luck with your vert!
Excellent Video Instructions on both parts 1 and 2 you do a great job of getting to the point with no Blah Blah Blah. Hopefully I can find my issue using part 2 to find the short in my system. Thanks Dude
Thanks A good start to troubleshooting. My roof stopped mid opening. CVM says #12 and #13 control button short circuit. I think this is gonna take some time.
Hey man thanks a lot! I watched this video and Part I too and it is very informative. Made me excited to fix my friend's car's convertible top. I will post an update once I fix it :) !
Great video. I didn’t get to my top yet, but thanks to you I have a ton of info. One mistake (I think) that I found is the last fuse you mention, 45, is actually a 46, according to Bentley manual.
My top suddenly stopped working: First it would only open half way and the rear lid would not open. Then shortly later, the windows would not go down when pressing open button for the top so the top wouldn't even move. For a year before this, the windows started acting weird by not "auto up" when pressing the window button, regardless if I recoded the GM5 module. So I think the GM5 module is partly at fault. This morning, I recoded the CVM II module (convertible module) and GM module and the top started to work again. Nothing visually wrong with any mechanical part related to the top or hydraulics. I have a brand new virgin GM5 module arriving next week and will program it in order to get my "auto up" window function to work again.
I have a 325ci and the convertible malfunction is so bad that I won’t even unlatch from the front windshield on its own, but sometimes after manually unlocking the front latch, when I press the button it moves a little but I still have to manually finish it up and pack it away in the back and then the back cover doesn’t latch closed. It’s so bad that the feature that all convertibles have where the front windows rise about a half inch to create a seal on the convertible to is inoperable. Mind you the front widows do not go up or down.
Hi Jahmaine! Your problem might be a wiring issue but it also could be an issue with the convertible motor (under the rear seat) or hydraulic pump (in the trunk). I would start by checking the wiring above the door since that is a common fail point. If that looks good, then make sure there is hydraulic fluid in the reservoir. If that also looks good, your convertible motor might not be "catching" because the gear pops out of place. You can usually hear this problem though.
Hi so I have a problem my light flashes and sometimes it unlatches from the front window then stops and won't even close I had a problem last year too but it just started working again but always in winter I like in the UK but not sure if its a wiring problem I have the right amount of fluid in the pump so it's not the pump
Front latches will open, raise a little. All fuses good, checked pinch point on top right no broken wires. Getting no power to top lid motor, do these wires in video activate the lid (top storage) Help please.
The wiring harness that you see at the pinch point is the same one that runs in the back quarter panel shown in the video. If you have no power, I have to assume that you have a break somewhere
Nice job on the video, very helpful. You must be British - I've never heard "solder" pronounced that way, always as "sodder", with a silent "L". Apparently that's an American thing...
So I had just swapped my pump yesterday and i went to test the top and it went up and did so pretty nicely. But then I tried to put it back down and it unlatched and then stopped. I’m hoping it’s not the pump I put in and it’s a wiring issue. Based on the position it stops which spot on the wiring harness should I check first?
The LEDs when I press either open or close button no longer light up and top does not go down, no noise, as if no power to top at all. Any ideas? Already checked all fuses.
Hmmm. On *some* e46s, they are able to open the top with their key fob. Often times it is press unlock once, then press and hold unlock a second time for ~30 seconds while the top unlocks and moves. Give that a shot and if it works, you know that your actual physical buttons are not operational.
I fixed the wires on the top left side of the convertible top, (2 wires broken). Then my top wouldn't work, only worked when it was inside the compartment at the back and came out 25% then stopped, I checked for other broken wires (second part at the back) removed the screws and saw no broken wires. So now I do not know whats wrong with the car and why its not closing. (Flashing red light still, does not latch or unlatch it self completely dead until I put it back inside the trunk then it comes back up 25% and freezes). I checked pump fluid level and it is topped up, I checked the motor and it spins.
It's odd that by fixing the wires it stopped working. Did you use the correct gauge wiring to carry the signal? If so, it's sadly probably time to break out the multimeter to see where the signal "stops"
Another thought: Is it possible that any of the fixed wires are exposed and touching each other? Like when you stripped the wire to solder you left a little bit exposed?
@@AvoidStealership I just but spliced the wires together, I didn’t use any other external gauge wire to connect the but splice. Simply just put one side in the splice , and the other side in the other end and crimped it.
![โรงเรียนตอนตี 2 โคตรหลอน..!! [โรงเรียนไดเม่]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2MAEMwqVYh8/mqdefault.jpg)
![ลองสั่งของจากแอพ temu ถูกจริงหรอ?? ( part : 1/2 ) [โกงไหมครับ ep.89 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RTcZSQTiDZw/mqdefault.jpg)
This is one of like 3 videos that actually tells the viewer anything about how the top systems in these cars work. I've been hunting for like a year in my efforts to figure out what makes them tick besides the obvious hydraulics that we all know about.
This is probably the best explanation I've seen, by far, and it's going to be instrumental in my efforts to repair my top system- though I'm going to be removing the entire harness so that my whizz kid brother in law can do the soldering for me.
Glad this could be helpful for you! I seriously considered redoing the entire harness because (as you can see) I had to dig pretty deep to find that exposed wire. If it acts up again, I'll probably go that route but so far so good. Best of luck with your vert!
It worked! It's been a rough three summers without the top working. Thank you so much!
Awesome! 😎 Drop the top and enjoy!
Such a professional, articulate, informative and helpful video! I"m having similar issues with my car, which is your car's twin.
Glad it was helpful! Hope you got the problem solved :)
Videos like this give me the confidence to do the work myself. Thank you
You got this! Best of luck!
Great video thank you for taking the time to film and explain this process.
I hope that it gave you some insight into your own car's convertible wiring!
Excellent Video Instructions on both parts 1 and 2 you do a great job of getting to the point with no Blah Blah Blah. Hopefully I can find my issue using part 2 to find the short in my system.
Thanks Dude
Glad it was helpful and I hope you find your problem. Love dropping the top but they can be finicky!
WOOOOOOO HOOOOO this worked finally. Thank you! specifically those wires shown at 7:34.
Hell yes, glad it worked out for you! Enjoy dropping the top!
Thanks for the video. Super useful to me.
Glad this was helpful for you!
Thanks
A good start to troubleshooting. My roof stopped mid opening. CVM says #12 and #13 control button short circuit.
I think this is gonna take some time.
Best of luck! 🤞
Hey man thanks a lot! I watched this video and Part I too and it is very informative. Made me excited to fix my friend's car's convertible top. I will post an update once I fix it :) !
Awesome, I'm glad that it was helpful! I think the e46 is a great looking convertible but they just need some love every now and then :)
Great video. I didn’t get to my top yet, but thanks to you I have a ton of info. One mistake (I think) that I found is the last fuse you mention, 45, is actually a 46, according to Bentley manual.
Thanks for the heads up! Bentley manual is king and it's tight quarters in the fuse area. Appreciate you looking out!
My top suddenly stopped working:
First it would only open half way and the rear lid would not open.
Then shortly later, the windows would not go down when pressing open button for the top so the top wouldn't even move.
For a year before this, the windows started acting weird by not "auto up" when pressing the window button, regardless if I recoded the GM5 module. So I think the GM5 module is partly at fault.
This morning, I recoded the CVM II module (convertible module) and GM module and the top started to work again. Nothing visually wrong with any mechanical part related to the top or hydraulics. I have a brand new virgin GM5 module arriving next week and will program it in order to get my "auto up" window function to work again.
Solid diagnostic work! Hope the module fixes it for you!
Very helpful, thanks!
Best of luck with your repair!
Great video
Thank you! Glad it was helpful!
I have a 325ci and the convertible malfunction is so bad that I won’t even unlatch from the front windshield on its own, but sometimes after manually unlocking the front latch, when I press the button it moves a little but I still have to manually finish it up and pack it away in the back and then the back cover doesn’t latch closed. It’s so bad that the feature that all convertibles have where the front windows rise about a half inch to create a seal on the convertible to is inoperable. Mind you the front widows do not go up or down.
Hi Jahmaine! Your problem might be a wiring issue but it also could be an issue with the convertible motor (under the rear seat) or hydraulic pump (in the trunk). I would start by checking the wiring above the door since that is a common fail point. If that looks good, then make sure there is hydraulic fluid in the reservoir. If that also looks good, your convertible motor might not be "catching" because the gear pops out of place. You can usually hear this problem though.
Chivas. Cruz. Azul
Were you able to fix the problem?
Hi so I have a problem my light flashes and sometimes it unlatches from the front window then stops and won't even close I had a problem last year too but it just started working again but always in winter I like in the UK but not sure if its a wiring problem I have the right amount of fluid in the pump so it's not the pump
thanks so much!!!! i fixed my roof 🥳🥳
Glad the video was helpful!
Good work!
Glad it was helpful!
Front latches will open, raise a little. All fuses good, checked pinch point on top right no broken wires. Getting no power to top lid motor, do these wires in video activate the lid (top storage) Help please.
The wiring harness that you see at the pinch point is the same one that runs in the back quarter panel shown in the video. If you have no power, I have to assume that you have a break somewhere
@@AvoidStealership Thank you, I'll give it a look.
Nice job on the video, very helpful. You must be British - I've never heard "solder" pronounced that way, always as "sodder", with a silent "L". Apparently that's an American thing...
I am from and located in the US but I spent some time in the UK and I picked up a few words and phrases!
Thanks for great clip
Glad that it helped!
Hello can you provide a link for the pa soft 1.4 you used ? I don’t want to spend money on one that might not be compatible thank you
I bought mine from the link below:
www.xcar360.com/bmw-scanner-1-4-0-car-diagnostic-interface-tool-code-reader.html
www.bimmerfest.com/threads/release-bmw-scanner-1-4-drivers-for-windows-10-dummy-friendly-installation-guide.1397475/page-2#post-13561543
So I had just swapped my pump yesterday and i went to test the top and it went up and did so pretty nicely. But then I tried to put it back down and it unlatched and then stopped. I’m hoping it’s not the pump I put in and it’s a wiring issue. Based on the position it stops which spot on the wiring harness should I check first?
Start at the bend right above the driver door. That is the most common break. Usually one of the thinner wires (green or brown) if I recall correctly
The top Dow’s go up fine, so it still could be a wiring issue?
@ must be nice - I used the PA soft 1.4 software to confirm that I had a wiring issue. The reader and software is ~30 USD.
The LEDs when I press either open or close button no longer light up and top does not go down, no noise, as if no power to top at all. Any ideas? Already checked all fuses.
Hmmm. On *some* e46s, they are able to open the top with their key fob. Often times it is press unlock once, then press and hold unlock a second time for ~30 seconds while the top unlocks and moves. Give that a shot and if it works, you know that your actual physical buttons are not operational.
I fixed the wires on the top left side of the convertible top, (2 wires broken). Then my top wouldn't work, only worked when it was inside the compartment at the back and came out 25% then stopped, I checked for other broken wires (second part at the back) removed the screws and saw no broken wires. So now I do not know whats wrong with the car and why its not closing. (Flashing red light still, does not latch or unlatch it self completely dead until I put it back inside the trunk then it comes back up 25% and freezes). I checked pump fluid level and it is topped up, I checked the motor and it spins.
It's odd that by fixing the wires it stopped working. Did you use the correct gauge wiring to carry the signal? If so, it's sadly probably time to break out the multimeter to see where the signal "stops"
Another thought: Is it possible that any of the fixed wires are exposed and touching each other? Like when you stripped the wire to solder you left a little bit exposed?
@@AvoidStealership I just but spliced the wires together, I didn’t use any other external gauge wire to connect the but splice. Simply just put one side in the splice , and the other side in the other end and crimped it.
@@Swag694 no exposures that can touch?
can you not raplce the whole loom
I believe you can but (I think) you have to remove the whole soft top to do so