Just a note, my brain wasn't working when I decided to leave the fan belt sheave on the hub. Adjusting the sheave by turning it on the hub is how the belt tension is adjusted, and I'll be removing and cleaning it so it turns freely.
I was really glad to see you decided to clean up the Adjusting Sheave and hub. I have dealt with these enough to know that you would have been sorry if you hadn't. Great videos on the MD rebuild. Of cousre I always enjoy seeing the farming videos too.
I'm lost by the term sheave. You talk about adjusting the belt tension by turning the sheave on the hub. Is this similar (but different?) to the VW system for adjusting the fan belt tension on a Beetle by having a number of washers that you either packed under the shaft end nut or packed between the two halves of the pulley to adjust its effective diameter for the belt? The angled pin you drove out at the beginning is cotter pin not a term in American English. Just got the answer to that myself. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cotter_(pin)#:~:text=A%20cotter%20is%20a%20pin%20or%20wedge%20passing,to%20a%20crosshead,%20as%20in%20a%20steam%20engine. We are two countries separated by a common language.
On our SMTA, SM, & cousins M, I take a hacksaw to the fan pulley, parallel to the fan shaft, then turn to the next notch, then for the other two notches. That way when I am tightening the fan belt, I know exactly where the notches are. If you have a tough to adjust fan pulley, I use an air hammer to tighten the fan belt. Don’t laugh, it makes quick work of a nasty job when someone did not put anti seize on the fan pulley threads!
Pete, please keep these coming! Your explanations are excellent, and it is fun working on this tractor vicariously with you via YT. You are a special farmer and your gift of sharing your time and talent with us is underappreciated. Thank you so much!
So glad you remembered the belt sheave adjustment...I’m still cussin’ 6 months later from the last hammer & punch belt adjustment on my M! For those watching who think this fan drive is nuts, the Farmall Cub holds liquid oil in a reservoir. You have to fill it in one position, then turn it to another to see what runs out to make sure it’s full...all while cramped up under the hood. There was a reason for the nutso fan drives, though. It took all the radial load from those huge belts off of the water pump shaft. In those days, using packings, it was hard enough to get a pump to seal-and hard to keep bearings alive if they had a chance of being exposed to coolant, which usually meant “plain water & rust” back then, or alcohol for anti freeze. The belt cross sections were so thick just so they’d last and handle the power load. Neither the rubber nor the reinforcing cord held up well in those days. They used the angled-head pliers to tighten the packing nuts. Until he died, my dad called all Channel-lock style pliers “water pump pliers.”
Thank you Pete for taking the time to explain everything. Miss the daily chores and adventures , but my heart is for sure into the rebuild. Been there many times , and winter sure does bring the opportunity to get a lot of shop work completed ! Been trying to get some content on my channel as well of projects. I am kinda going backwards if you will, all the rebuilds and repairs are coming now during the winter. Spring hopefully will bring more chances to get back in the overgrown fields to clear more land for planting. Farming is always repairs and chores, sometimes the order is flopped around! Thank you for bringing us along your journeys, look forward to more videos to come.
Pete, I wish you great luck on this tractor and so far I think it’s going well. I hope you and your family is in good health in this pandemic and keep up the great videos!
Another great video, who would have ever thought a waterpump could be so interesting. I have enjoyed working on American automobiles since I was a kid, early 60's, but have never rebuilt a waterpump. Keep the video's coming
No stone left unturned. It's great that you can get all the parts and not have a problem. Have you ever heated something red hot then cooled it in cold water? The nut comes off easy. Enjoyed watching thanks Pete have a good day....
Pete- I have no mechanical inclination/ability at all. I came to your site for the farming. However, I'm finding this tractor rebuild very interesting, and cannot wait to see your finished product. I look forward to every new video. Thanks for all your work in putting these out.
Hi Pete Enjoying your videos. The reason for allowing a small amount of coolant to circulate through the radiator when the thermostat is closed is to prevent thermal cycling. When the engine warms up and the thermostat opens the warm coolant in the engine block is replaced with cold coolant from the radiator. When the cold coolant reaches the thermostat, it closes and this coolant is warm up. This thermal cycling is very hard on an engine. With the bypass the radiator is slowly warming up as the engine warms up. Keep up the good work. Cheers Willy
Its interesting the design of the components on the older equipment, grease fittings that were installed to prolong the life of the equipment. Today we have sealed assemblies, that may have a miniscule amount of lube if one is lucky. These sealed maintenance free units are easy for the mechanic but cost in the long run. The bypass ports in the thermostat housing also relieve air entrapment in the system.
Thanks for the explanations on how those parts work. Side note: There is another TH-camr that is being treated at Cornell Veterinary Hospital, Crusoe the Celebrity Dachshund. He has 1.33 million subscribers .
Pete,things coming along well,it appears,I’m enjoying this build,but it’s time for me head for my shop,replacing pump and injectors on my 861 ford today,got it back from shop. See ya next vid.
These are great videos! My father still has our families original Farmall Cub that they bought in 1949 to farm in the Otis Orchards WA. area. We still use that tractor today on my Dad's Farm. I recently picked up a Farmall 560 to farm a bit of land that I brought back into the family near me. I love watching your videos and seeing how other farmers do it. I really love the info on the old tractors and harvesting hay as I'll be starting in the haying biz next year. (planing on doing a alfalfa/orchards grass mix to sell to the many goat folks in the area) A question on this video, why did IH put the bypass on the thermostat to keep water flowing in the radiator? Thanks for the great videos, I'm looking forward to seeing how things turn out on the MD. :D
Good day from Ont. Yrs ago when having farmm my dad had super W-6 gas . Now it had 2 grease fittings, but W-4 didn't I wonder why? Nice interesting video. Thanks
Your pump / thermostat description was good, just in reverse, centrifugal pumps always enters via the center. so in this case the water pump is drawing from the head, and then either pumping through the radiator, or bypassing when the thermostat is cold. What causes the issue with removing the thermostat is that when hot, the bypass is still open.
The only center entrance for coolant on this pump is via the bypass; the engine block opening is at the vanes' perimeter. Coolant is pushed by the pump into the engine block first. I am following the manufacturer's own design diagrams when explaining how the cooling system works, and I explain it correctly in the video.
I know saying 100% Pete :) also grease plus rebuild water pump allso new thermostat help engine running perfectly too and when put motor also together plus rad assembly done! Also when put rad antifreeze also water mix just before refill rad check see rad need any repairs to also added fluid before put last jug in or 3/4 full add 100ml of 80w90 it helps circulation of rad fluid plus lube water pump plus bearing grease lube up even thermostat from sticking on open or close plus trouble free water pump years ahead to ! Do 100ml of 80W90 yearly and be amazing see even keep gaskets nice fresh like new plus no over heated engine too! We had water pump just about seize on 2 of our International tractors one summer season doing hay even water pumps were grease up plus lots and got back to machinery shed we got fix again with new bearing plus stuff! Funny part rain for 2 weeks on farm and got parts did repairs need! Yes take in steps too for next 2 weeks ! But 80w90 work so good help get parts loose to even bit heat hand torch heat 🔥! Yes bolt International are excellent Pete 👌!
Pete, have you given any thought to using your media blast cabinet to clean the housings, especially the insides? I've had good results using glass beads on the cast parts and walnut shells on aluminum parts. It's pretty quick and does a great job. I spray them down with acetone or lacquer thinner and they are ready for paint.
Hi Eagle, I do sometimes. The problem I usually run into is either thick paint or grease. I've had better (quicker) success removing both with a grinder. I do use the cabinet on smaller, complicated parts where I can't clean the crevices with a grinder.
@@JustaFewAcresFarm I hate grease and oil. Most of the vintage jet fighters we restore have 40 to 60 years of grease, hydraulic oil, fuel and god knows what else caked on them. The first thing we do is hit it with a hot water pressure washer. It's a lot of fun and amazing how clean it comes out. Then starts the disassembly after which we start the media blasting process. The walnut shells work really well for removing the years of paint on the landing gear struts. Because of the power washing we are able to reuse a lot of the media after sifting it as there is no grease. Just another method. Thought I'd share.
If u ever mess up something and can’t find a replacement take it to a local tech school that has a tool and die shop and ask them to reverse engineer a component. I had my school rebuild me a shaft for my snow mobile. The kids get a need to make something with a real need. U r a history buff on old tractors .
It's a shame but places like that are a dying breed. I was fortunate to have had an amazing metal and machine shop program in my school. I give my old teacher Mr Search credit for keeping me on the right track and not ruining my life. There's a half dozen or more times when he was responsible for me not dropping out and thanks to him I joined the Navy where I eventually ended up getting into OCS and became a naval aviator.
I like bolts out of different machines like you said they are a little different sometimes those and Caterpillar I know for sure have different bolts than regular ones always better too like the bigger head what not
Just aninteresting little side note to your comment, when IH got into financial trouble, they sold off their West Pullman bearing and bolt factory, and Caterpillar bought it!
How do you tension the fan belt without moving that sheeve? I'm not familiar with m, but the one on a later bd154 diesel has a separate pulley for the generator, so you have to use those threads to tighten the belt.
People with the ability to "fix" things are becoming more and more rare. Most newer techs only think in terms of slapping a new part on and calling it good.
Hey Pete, Heres a joke. "A bear walks in to the bar and tells the bartender. Give me a beer ...... and a cola. The bartender ask, why the long pause? The bear looks and says "I don't know. I was born with them"
So by not having the thermostat in when you shut the engine down it's not cooling the engine down either so therefore you could crack the block also?perhaps I'm wrong and that's why you're going that route?
The thermostat will stay open after the engine is shut down, as long as the coolant temperature is hotter than the thermostat's set point. As the tractor cools, it will close. But the water pump is not circulating coolant after the engine is shut down, so you are relying on convection to move coolant through the engine and radiator after shutdown. That's why idling the engine to cool it down before shutting it off is important.
@@JustaFewAcresFarm Pete, I believe you are right when you said the heads probably cracked from improper engine cool down. My father worked on a farm that had a couple of Farmall diesels. I think they were an MD and a WD9. He always said if you were working one really hard, and ran out of fuel, the head would crack before you got it refueled and bled the system.
"The way [part name] on a Farm All is designed is unique." Seems like every part on a FA is unique. Sounds like they never did anything a standard way. ;)
Do yourself a favor & free up that sheave. Makes belt adjustment sooooooo much easier & you don't have to ding up the paint trying to free it up on the tractor to get the new belt on.
I second that. It's nearly impossible to break that free on the tractor, hence my 400 is running with a loose fan belt until I have time to take the water pump off.
When you tore the engine down you mentioned that the thermostat was missing because it caused the engine to overheat and that probably cracked the head. I was a Cat mechanic for 40 plus years and I think that the crack was caused the lack of antifreeze somewhere in its lifetime. I have been watching your videos for a while now.Keep up the good work.
I think the head was cracked because they were prone to it, or the tractor was not properly idled to cool down after it was worked, or you could be right it ran low on coolant some time or another. I did install a new thermostat because I think it will help the engine cool correctly.
Good morning Pete. I’m not sure you understood what I meant when I said the lack of antifreeze caused the head to crack. I meant that the cooling system was filled with water and froze up. Back in the 1950’s my Dad only ran water in some of our tractors. The John Deere B had alcohol in it because it had to run the hammer mill for feed.
It depends on the season James. Restoring this tractor is really a hobby, not a farm job. In the summer I work long days farming. In the winter, a good portion of my day is available to do other things I enjoy. It's one of the nice things about having a pasture-based farm.
@@JustaFewAcresFarm same here. In the winter it's pretty much putting out hay. In the summer putting up hay is a big deal. I do like to piddle with projects summer and winter. I'd have to live to be 200 years old to get them all done 😁💪👍
This guy does the exact definition of a nut and bolt restoration. I dont like when people just slap a coat of paint on a tractor and call it restored.just bugs me
@@STOstuff Not quite certain about the clown face? I don't mind people laughing at me, heck I laugh at myself quite a lot, but it would be nice to know what part of my statement caused you amusement? In particular, I'm fond of pressure lanterns and stoves. Not so much the gasoline ones beloved of the US but more kerosene stoves, not that I don't appreciate gasoline stoves. With the kerosene stoves and lamps there are people who do stellar films on the subject and I have learnt a lot but there are those who for want of a better term just "Polish A Turd." Beyond my purchasing power, but many classic cars and motorcycles fall into this grouping too. Sorry if you thought I might be questioning Pete that was never my intention. It was a comment on the "Slapping a coat of paint on" part of the original comment in the thread and my thoughts that I've seen far too many of those kind of films!
Just a note, my brain wasn't working when I decided to leave the fan belt sheave on the hub. Adjusting the sheave by turning it on the hub is how the belt tension is adjusted, and I'll be removing and cleaning it so it turns freely.
I was thinking that the adjustment for the belt was to spin that in/out, GREAT LUCK with the project
I was really glad to see you decided to clean up the Adjusting Sheave and hub. I have dealt with these enough to know that you would have been sorry if you hadn't. Great videos on the MD rebuild. Of cousre I always enjoy seeing the farming videos too.
I'm lost by the term sheave. You talk about adjusting the belt tension by turning the sheave on the hub. Is this similar (but different?) to the VW system for adjusting the fan belt tension on a Beetle by having a number of washers that you either packed under the shaft end nut or packed between the two halves of the pulley to adjust its effective diameter for the belt?
The angled pin you drove out at the beginning is cotter pin not a term in American English. Just got the answer to that myself. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cotter_(pin)#:~:text=A%20cotter%20is%20a%20pin%20or%20wedge%20passing,to%20a%20crosshead,%20as%20in%20a%20steam%20engine.
We are two countries separated by a common language.
On our SMTA, SM, & cousins M, I take a hacksaw to the fan pulley, parallel to the fan shaft, then turn to the next notch, then for the other two notches. That way when I am tightening the fan belt, I know exactly where the notches are.
If you have a tough to adjust fan pulley, I use an air hammer to tighten the fan belt. Don’t laugh, it makes quick work of a nasty job when someone did not put anti seize on the fan pulley threads!
I’m glad u left this comment I didn’t know that
I know this is a deviation from the usual farm videos, but I am REALLY enjoying following along on this rebuild. Good stuff.
When you said that you “go through them”, you weren’t kidding. Doing it the right way.
Pete, please keep these coming! Your explanations are excellent, and it is fun working on this tractor vicariously with you via YT. You are a special farmer and your gift of sharing your time and talent with us is underappreciated. Thank you so much!
It is great I’ve been showing my kids these videos I’m a mechanic have been for 30 years but I don’t explain things like Pete does
So glad you remembered the belt sheave adjustment...I’m still cussin’ 6 months later from the last hammer & punch belt adjustment on my M!
For those watching who think this fan drive is nuts, the Farmall Cub holds liquid oil in a reservoir. You have to fill it in one position, then turn it to another to see what runs out to make sure it’s full...all while cramped up under the hood.
There was a reason for the nutso fan drives, though. It took all the radial load from those huge belts off of the water pump shaft. In those days, using packings, it was hard enough to get a pump to seal-and hard to keep bearings alive if they had a chance of being exposed to coolant, which usually meant “plain water & rust” back then, or alcohol for anti freeze.
The belt cross sections were so thick just so they’d last and handle the power load. Neither the rubber nor the reinforcing cord held up well in those days.
They used the angled-head pliers to tighten the packing nuts. Until he died, my dad called all Channel-lock style pliers “water pump pliers.”
Good job Pete. Much appreciated. Enjoyable to watch
Was glad to See you today Pete, in my world of mass confusion, your calm helps Me.
Enjoying your MD restoration series on your channel. Thank you! 🇺🇸🚜👍
Enjoying your takedown on the MD and looking forward to the eventual start up and running of the MD.👍
Your attention to detail is amazing!
Hi Pete. Love your channel in general but the tractor rebuild series is a high point. Keep up the good work.
Thank you Pete for taking the time to explain everything. Miss the daily chores and adventures , but my heart is for sure into the rebuild. Been there many times , and winter sure does bring the opportunity to get a lot of shop work completed ! Been trying to get some content on my channel as well of projects. I am kinda going backwards if you will, all the rebuilds and repairs are coming now during the winter. Spring hopefully will bring more chances to get back in the overgrown fields to clear more land for planting. Farming is always repairs and chores, sometimes the order is flopped around! Thank you for bringing us along your journeys, look forward to more videos to come.
Pete, I wish you great luck on this tractor and so far I think it’s going well. I hope you and your family is in good health in this pandemic and keep up the great videos!
Thank you!
Peter, Thank you for your videos! The BEST channel. Hope to be your customer in 2021. NY State
Another great video, who would have ever thought a waterpump could be so interesting. I have enjoyed working on American automobiles since I was a kid, early 60's, but have never rebuilt a waterpump. Keep the video's coming
Thanks for the water pump instructions. Now I can start on Dad's 560, it leaks a little but thanks to you Pete, I can fix it. 😊
Just watching this video got me pumped to see the finished tractor.
No stone left unturned. It's great that you can get all the parts and not have a problem. Have you ever heated something red hot then cooled it in cold water? The nut comes off easy. Enjoyed watching thanks Pete have a good day....
Pete- I have no mechanical inclination/ability at all. I came to your site for the farming. However, I'm finding this tractor rebuild very interesting, and cannot wait to see your finished product. I look forward to every new video. Thanks for all your work in putting these out.
Another very educational video,you have studied your mechanics well.
Thanks Pete, great video. Great info for us Farmall letter tractor owners.
See ya next time Pete! Thanks for the show.
I’m new to your channel and enjoying it very much. One recurring theme I’ve observed, tractors, tractors, tractors... I love it!
Hi Pete
Enjoying your videos. The reason for allowing a small amount of coolant to circulate through the radiator when the thermostat is closed is to prevent thermal cycling. When the engine warms up and the thermostat opens the warm coolant in the engine block is replaced with cold coolant from the radiator. When the cold coolant reaches the thermostat, it closes and this coolant is warm up. This thermal cycling is very hard on an engine. With the bypass the radiator is slowly warming up as the engine warms up. Keep up the good work.
Cheers
Willy
Great info, thanks Willy!
As I have stated before, I loath turning wrenches but your knowledge and explanation of everything makes watching enjoyable.
Its interesting the design of the components on the older equipment, grease fittings that were installed to prolong the life of the equipment. Today we have sealed assemblies, that may have a miniscule amount of lube if one is lucky. These sealed maintenance free units are easy for the mechanic but cost in the long run. The bypass ports in the thermostat housing also relieve air entrapment in the system.
This whole rebuilding is fascinating. Thank you.
Really have enjoyed these tractor repair videos, excellent work
Extremely informative video. Never realized that water pumps wore so complicated. Great job, thank you. :-)
The threaded part of the fan belt is also how you can a just the belt when it's on the tractor, to keep the proper adjustment on the belt.
Thanks for the explanations on how those parts work. Side note: There is another TH-camr that is being treated at Cornell Veterinary Hospital, Crusoe the Celebrity Dachshund. He has 1.33 million subscribers .
After the md is finished you should do a time lapse video of start to finish
Pete,things coming along well,it appears,I’m enjoying this build,but it’s time for me head for my shop,replacing pump and injectors on my 861 ford today,got it back from shop. See ya next vid.
These are great videos! My father still has our families original Farmall Cub that they bought in 1949 to farm in the Otis Orchards WA. area. We still use that tractor today on my Dad's Farm. I recently picked up a Farmall 560 to farm a bit of land that I brought back into the family near me. I love watching your videos and seeing how other farmers do it. I really love the info on the old tractors and harvesting hay as I'll be starting in the haying biz next year. (planing on doing a alfalfa/orchards grass mix to sell to the many goat folks in the area)
A question on this video, why did IH put the bypass on the thermostat to keep water flowing in the radiator?
Thanks for the great videos, I'm looking forward to seeing how things turn out on the MD. :D
Good day from Ont. Yrs ago when having farmm my dad had super W-6 gas . Now it had 2 grease fittings, but W-4 didn't I wonder why? Nice interesting video. Thanks
Really interesting videos. keep it up!! 👍👍
I saw you touch the water pump, so it definitely has been ‘felt’.
😂
Pete ime realy enjoying watching u do this rebuild o could u tell a few more joks
Making good progress!
You might want to try some Evaporust on the rusty parts it neutralizes the rust and cleans the parts. Just let the soak overnight
Good stuff bro
Your pump / thermostat description was good, just in reverse, centrifugal pumps always enters via the center. so in this case the water pump is drawing from the head, and then either pumping through the radiator, or bypassing when the thermostat is cold. What causes the issue with removing the thermostat is that when hot, the bypass is still open.
The only center entrance for coolant on this pump is via the bypass; the engine block opening is at the vanes' perimeter. Coolant is pushed by the pump into the engine block first. I am following the manufacturer's own design diagrams when explaining how the cooling system works, and I explain it correctly in the video.
Nice haircut Pete!
Thanks Terry! Hilarie does a good job.
It’s good to see rebuilding the water pump gave you the same shits that I had 😂👍
Good to know video.
thanks for all the info. very helpfull
I know saying 100% Pete :) also grease plus rebuild water pump allso new thermostat help engine running perfectly too and when put motor also together plus rad assembly done! Also when put rad antifreeze also water mix just before refill rad check see rad need any repairs to also added fluid before put last jug in or 3/4 full add 100ml of 80w90 it helps circulation of rad fluid plus lube water pump plus bearing grease lube up even thermostat from sticking on open or close plus trouble free water pump years ahead to ! Do 100ml of 80W90 yearly and be amazing see even keep gaskets nice fresh like new plus no over heated engine too! We had water pump just about seize on 2 of our International tractors one summer season doing hay even water pumps were grease up plus lots and got back to machinery shed we got fix again with new bearing plus stuff! Funny part rain for 2 weeks on farm and got parts did repairs need! Yes take in steps too for next 2 weeks ! But 80w90 work so good help get parts loose to even bit heat hand torch heat 🔥! Yes bolt International are excellent Pete 👌!
great stuff
must have been quite the job, no time for a dad joke! lol!
Pete, have you given any thought to using your media blast cabinet to clean the housings, especially the insides? I've had good results using glass beads on the cast parts and walnut shells on aluminum parts. It's pretty quick and does a great job. I spray them down with acetone or lacquer thinner and they are ready for paint.
Hi Eagle, I do sometimes. The problem I usually run into is either thick paint or grease. I've had better (quicker) success removing both with a grinder. I do use the cabinet on smaller, complicated parts where I can't clean the crevices with a grinder.
@@JustaFewAcresFarm I hate grease and oil. Most of the vintage jet fighters we restore have 40 to 60 years of grease, hydraulic oil, fuel and god knows what else caked on them. The first thing we do is hit it with a hot water pressure washer. It's a lot of fun and amazing how clean it comes out. Then starts the disassembly after which we start the media blasting process. The walnut shells work really well for removing the years of paint on the landing gear struts. Because of the power washing we are able to reuse a lot of the media after sifting it as there is no grease. Just another method. Thought I'd share.
@@eagle2019 Hot water pressure washers are the best!
Hey Pet don't know what the heck's going on but I haven't got your last 5 videos So I guess I will just catch up CHEERS🍺 my Friend😉
If u ever mess up something and can’t find a replacement take it to a local tech school that has a tool and die shop and ask them to reverse engineer a component. I had my school rebuild me a shaft for my snow mobile. The kids get a need to make something with a real need. U r a history buff on old tractors .
It's a shame but places like that are a dying breed. I was fortunate to have had an amazing metal and machine shop program in my school. I give my old teacher Mr Search credit for keeping me on the right track and not ruining my life. There's a half dozen or more times when he was responsible for me not dropping out and thanks to him I joined the Navy where I eventually ended up getting into OCS and became a naval aviator.
Hi Pete,Ed from Vermont
I love you genius👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👍🏻👍🏻😊🇦🇷
Pet, um with you on the non organic farming. Um old school my self😂
I like bolts out of different machines like you said they are a little different sometimes those and Caterpillar I know for sure have different bolts than regular ones always better too like the bigger head what not
Just aninteresting little side note to your comment, when IH got into financial trouble, they sold off their West Pullman bearing and bolt factory, and Caterpillar bought it!
The hammer is mans oldest tool, in skilled hands its a miracle tool in hackers hands a destroyer.
How do you tension the fan belt without moving that sheeve?
I'm not familiar with m, but the one on a later bd154 diesel has a separate pulley for the generator, so you have to use those threads to tighten the belt.
It's the same way on an M. My brain was not working properly when I said I was going to leave it!
@@JustaFewAcresFarm leeetle bit of anti-seize on there and never worry!
nice haircut!
Heat 'er, and beat 'er works for me.
People with the ability to "fix" things are becoming more and more rare. Most newer techs only think in terms of slapping a new part on and calling it good.
Hey Pete, Heres a joke. "A bear walks in to the bar and tells the bartender. Give me a beer ...... and a cola. The bartender ask, why the long pause? The bear looks and says "I don't know. I was born with them"
Pete coming along well any news from the machine shop?
No, I don't expect them to start on the engine for another few weeks (at least).
Probably best to just replace the ball bearings as a matter of course. They aren't that expensive, and you have the pump apart already anyways.
Where did you buy the packing and do you know what size it was
So by not having the thermostat in when you shut the engine down it's not cooling the engine down either so therefore you could crack the block also?perhaps I'm wrong and that's why you're going that route?
The thermostat will stay open after the engine is shut down, as long as the coolant temperature is hotter than the thermostat's set point. As the tractor cools, it will close. But the water pump is not circulating coolant after the engine is shut down, so you are relying on convection to move coolant through the engine and radiator after shutdown. That's why idling the engine to cool it down before shutting it off is important.
@@JustaFewAcresFarm Pete, I believe you are right when you said the heads probably cracked from improper engine cool down. My father worked on a farm that had a couple of Farmall diesels. I think they were an MD and a WD9. He always said if you were working one really hard, and ran out of fuel, the head would crack before you got it refueled and bled the system.
You need to clean the threads on the pulley as that's how you get proper belt tension many heads over heated do to belt slipping old I H tek
Yes
Doesn't it concern you when you grab threads with vice grips? You don't want to interrupt them.
I don't pinch them tightly enough to cause a problem. I've done thousands of bolts this way.
Looks like you need a shop press.
it would be nice if you mentioned parts prices and outside shop costs as you went along.
Hi Richard, I plan on doing a "costs so far" summary when the engine comes back from the machine shop.
"The way [part name] on a Farm All is designed is unique." Seems like every part on a FA is unique. Sounds like they never did anything a standard way. ;)
I hav a old Ferguson from 1948
Do yourself a favor & free up that sheave. Makes belt adjustment sooooooo much easier & you don't have to ding up the paint trying to free it up on the tractor to get the new belt on.
Good advice and will do!
I second that. It's nearly impossible to break that free on the tractor, hence my 400 is running with a loose fan belt until I have time to take the water pump off.
I've had great luck with lots of penetrating oil and a blunt air chisel/air hammer going back and forth both ways. Easy on everything.
How are you doing on the budget?
What kind of wee wee juice ?
PB Blaster
@@JustaFewAcresFarm thanks, I wish my work bench was cleared off , oh well.
@@davidshumski4629 Workbench cleared off, I've always believed that if you can see any part of my workbench, then I don't have enough stuff on it.
A clean work bench is a sign of a week mind😆
@@chriszenker2468 I get pickup tail gate cleared off every day by gosh!
👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🗽🙏🏻 Enjoyed!
Engineers prove their manhood by using non-standard parts whenever possible.
How else can you earn the proprietary badge?!
better say american engeneers and british, at the rest you are at least able to use normal metric stuff
you really need a sandblasting cabinet
I have one. I find it quicker to use a grinder. To each his own.
When you tore the engine down you mentioned that the thermostat was missing because it caused the engine to overheat and that probably cracked the head. I was a Cat mechanic for 40 plus years and I think that the crack was caused the lack of antifreeze somewhere in its lifetime. I have been watching your videos for a while now.Keep up the good work.
I think the head was cracked because they were prone to it, or the tractor was not properly idled to cool down after it was worked, or you could be right it ran low on coolant some time or another. I did install a new thermostat because I think it will help the engine cool correctly.
Good morning Pete. I’m not sure you understood what I meant when I said the lack of antifreeze caused the head to crack. I meant that the cooling system was filled with water and froze up. Back in the 1950’s my Dad only ran water in some of our tractors. The John Deere B had alcohol in it because it had to run the hammer mill for feed.
Fixing equipment is just a part of farming. Sometimes it seems like you spend more time fixing things than you do other farming things.
It depends on the season James. Restoring this tractor is really a hobby, not a farm job. In the summer I work long days farming. In the winter, a good portion of my day is available to do other things I enjoy. It's one of the nice things about having a pasture-based farm.
@@JustaFewAcresFarm same here. In the winter it's pretty much putting out hay. In the summer putting up hay is a big deal. I do like to piddle with projects summer and winter. I'd have to live to be 200 years old to get them all done 😁💪👍
I have drive on a farmall md
It doesn't hurt to cool down the gas engines also. They can crack heads also. Less likely though.
sticky bearing no fun :(
This guy does the exact definition of a nut and bolt restoration. I dont like when people just slap a coat of paint on a tractor and call it restored.just bugs me
People doing restoration(?) videos on TH-cam where the item concerned will never function again. If it doesn't function it isn't restored.
@@COIcultist what🤡
@@STOstuff Not quite certain about the clown face? I don't mind people laughing at me, heck I laugh at myself quite a lot, but it would be nice to know what part of my statement caused you amusement?
In particular, I'm fond of pressure lanterns and stoves. Not so much the gasoline ones beloved of the US but more kerosene stoves, not that I don't appreciate gasoline stoves.
With the kerosene stoves and lamps there are people who do stellar films on the subject and I have learnt a lot but there are those who for want of a better term just "Polish A Turd." Beyond my purchasing power, but many classic cars and motorcycles fall into this grouping too.
Sorry if you thought I might be questioning Pete that was never my intention. It was a comment on the "Slapping a coat of paint on" part of the original comment in the thread and my thoughts that I've seen far too many of those kind of films!
@@COIcultist ok I understand now but jeez did you have to type that much
IHC FOREVER!