Jeremy demonstrates his 3 step process for painting a doorframe Timestamps: 0:00 Introduction 0:27 Supplies 0:51 Prep 3:36 First Coat 7:05 Second Coat & Cleanup 7:49 Outro
Key Point. Long strokes.👍 Once paint is relatively distributed evenly. Then do a couple long strokes to make it flow at an angle of direction that you want.
What’s the advantage of using Duration or Emerald trim? Not that much of a difference in price, especially with Sales all the time. Love your content by the way!
Thanks for the kind words Jonathan. Both are great paints. We didn't notice much of an improvement when we used the Emerald semi over Duration. In our opinion the Duration is easier to work with and has a good workable open time. However I would give Emerald the edge in coverage over different colors. Not by much tho :) Have a good one!
Hi Jeremy, I've painted lots of door frames in the past, but non as bad as in my present home. The frames at the top have big chips where the paint fell off, or something. Some are 2 inches wide. Is there a procedure for this repair, or do I just paint over? Thanks so much on this Tuesday morning.
I could be mistaken, but it sounds like you have a paint failure. It is likely that a latex based paint has been painted over an oil based product at some point. The latex based layer didn’t properly adhere to the oil layer and is now peeling off. This is a common issue that we run into frequently. We fix it by sanding and scraping off the loose paint. It’s not necessary to get every bit of the failing paint off, just the loose bits. Then prime the affected areas with a high adhesion primer. There are several to choose from. BIN or cover stain work well from Zinsser. Once it’s dry you can go over it with whatever trim paint you like. You may also need to wood putty some of the affected areas to smooth things out. Good luck!
@@SuperVassarBrothers Whoa, thanks for telling me the Latex on Oil. I was getting ready to paint with a premium high gloss paint, but I think I will get that primer right now. Thanks Super Vassar Brother Jeremy! Jeremy, one of my favourite names. Big Honk-Out from Canada!
It’s likely that your metal doorframe has already been painted. You don’t have to prime it if the trim paint you’ve selected is adhering to the service. If it’s a brand new metal doorframe then you may need to prime or paint it with a DTM (direct to metal) product.
You mentioned caulk in the intro. I know there are different schools of thought as to when to caulk. Say the walls and the trim need painting. Would you caulk the trim first, then paint the trim, then paint the walls? Or caulk after painting everything?
You can if there’s a lot of dirt or debris that gets in your paint as it’s drying. If you do then go with 150 or 220 and do it lightly. Obviously don’t sand after your last coat 😬
Hi. Ive got new unpainted door case- jamb/door stop with new primed doors being installed in a few days. Will i have enough gap to prime and paint jambs etc after doors go on without ruining paintwork?
You can definitely paint the jambs after the door are installed. We do it all the time. You just may want to tape the hinges to avoid getting paint on them.
Hello. Could you please give me your best advice on choosing the most durable water based for my wooden framed windows? Using 80 grit sandpaper I spent hours & days hand sanding x 4 wooden sash window frames. I sanded off old layers of yellowed gloss leaving behind a thin layer of gloss which I can now see the wood grain through. I now have trust issues finding the most durable water based paints for my interior. I want to be 100% sure I am choosing the right paint system so I don't have to re-do all my efforts ? I am new to water based paints. So how would I go about this ? Do I need to prime ? uncoat ? Please tell me the most professional trustworthy durable pants recommended with the longest lasting effect ? Regards Micheal
I'd recommend using Fresh Start primer from Benjamin Moore, then top coating with Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel from Sherwin Williams. That's one of my favorite combos currently. Emerald Urethane is a hybrid trim paint, but is technically water-based so it's relatively easy to work with.
I've never understood why all these painters don't use a roller to apply paint to door frames. I paint a door frame, front, middle and back in about 20 seconds then finish the bottoms and corners with my brush....easy pezzy.
I always love how “joe expert” knows better than the pro who does this for a living. Never cease to amaze me how they show the arrogance and ignorance at the same time. Happens in my line of work as well. Appreciate your expertise and think Steve is an ass.
@stevebeckett3319....I'm asking in the nicest way possible....how does one paint a door frame with a roller successfully considering the door frame has a door stop right in the middle of the frame? Are you using a really small roller? And if you were using a really small roller, wouldn't you need a brush to get into the edges of the center door stop molding? I would think a roller couldn't be any wider than 1 1/2 to be able to paint the frame unless you took the door off its hinges. Please explain. Thank you 😊
The amount of coats is very much dependent on the situation. If you have a significant color change then most of the time you're looking at two coats. If you're going over the same color, like recoating trim, then a lot of times you can get away with 1 coat. Most of the paint that is marketed as a "one coat" solution is nonsense. There's no way they can guarantee that result with different colors. We do two coats on just about everything because we want predictable high quality results. Also the second coat goes on significantly quicker than the first. All the hard work is done at that point.
It’s not for us, particularly when when we’re doing 10+ doors. It becomes a challenge finding a place for them all. It’s actually quite convenient to leave them hanging and do it like we did in the video. We do that 99% of the time and we’re quite fast at it.
It depends on the state of the poly. As long as it’s not super old and worn, it’s ok to use the yellow frog tape. It’s never a good idea to leave the tape on for an extended period of time. That’s when you run into issues with the tape marrying into the poly and ripping off the finish.
whites are the best. light weight, comfortable, keep you cooler. those heavy thick denim brown pants are not for painting and raise your temperature about ten degrees.
Cool story. I’ve never been a handyman, but I’ve been painting professionally for over 20 years…I suppose someone should inform my clients about your discovery
That all depends on your level of skill. You can get each door prepped in 5-10 minutes. Then a good goal to shoot for when painting (particularly if you’re new to it) is to try and paint 1 side of a door in under 10 minutes
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This is excellent material Jeremy!!!!!! Good stuff mate.
Why thank you kind sir! 🤙
Key Point. Long strokes.👍
Once paint is relatively distributed evenly. Then do a couple long strokes to make it flow at an angle of direction that you want.
This is the way
Thanks 👍
You are welcome! Thanks for watching 😃
Terrific video, as always. How do you decide whether to prime?
Thanks Rt L. We only prime when its raw wood, or going over old oil paint. Have a good one my friend.
@@SuperVassarBrothers thanks. You too!
Do you prime trim if it’s a drastic color change? Dark brown to beige? What about deglossing the old trim paint? Thanks!!
What’s the advantage of using Duration or Emerald trim? Not that much of a difference in price, especially with Sales all the time. Love your content by the way!
Thanks for the kind words Jonathan. Both are great paints. We didn't notice much of an improvement when we used the Emerald semi over Duration. In our opinion the Duration is easier to work with and has a good workable open time. However I would give Emerald the edge in coverage over different colors. Not by much tho :) Have a good one!
Hi Jeremy, I've painted lots of door frames in the past, but non as bad as in my present home.
The frames at the top have big chips where the paint fell off, or something. Some are 2 inches wide.
Is there a procedure for this repair, or do I just paint over?
Thanks so much on this Tuesday morning.
I could be mistaken, but it sounds like you have a paint failure. It is likely that a latex based paint has been painted over an oil based product at some point. The latex based layer didn’t properly adhere to the oil layer and is now peeling off.
This is a common issue that we run into frequently. We fix it by sanding and scraping off the loose paint. It’s not necessary to get every bit of the failing paint off, just the loose bits. Then prime the affected areas with a high adhesion primer. There are several to choose from. BIN or cover stain work well from Zinsser. Once it’s dry you can go over it with whatever trim paint you like. You may also need to wood putty some of the affected areas to smooth things out.
Good luck!
@@SuperVassarBrothers Whoa, thanks for telling me the Latex on Oil. I was getting ready to paint with a premium high gloss paint, but I think I will get that primer right now.
Thanks Super Vassar Brother Jeremy!
Jeremy, one of my favourite names.
Big Honk-Out from Canada!
This really helped me.💯. Thanks. Is metal paint with primer ok. Or do I still need primer for this metal door frame. Please help.
It’s likely that your metal doorframe has already been painted. You don’t have to prime it if the trim paint you’ve selected is adhering to the service. If it’s a brand new metal doorframe then you may need to prime or paint it with a DTM (direct to metal) product.
You mentioned caulk in the intro. I know there are different schools of thought as to when to caulk. Say the walls and the trim need painting. Would you caulk the trim first, then paint the trim, then paint the walls? Or caulk after painting everything?
We always caulk before we paint. That way you’re covering the caulk with paint which results in a more seamless looking finish.
Are you supposed to sand between coats? Great video thank you
You can if there’s a lot of dirt or debris that gets in your paint as it’s drying. If you do then go with 150 or 220 and do it lightly. Obviously don’t sand after your last coat 😬
Hi. Ive got new unpainted door case- jamb/door stop with new primed doors being installed in a few days. Will i have enough gap to prime and paint jambs etc after doors go on without ruining paintwork?
You can definitely paint the jambs after the door are installed. We do it all the time. You just may want to tape the hinges to avoid getting paint on them.
What grit of sandpaper should I use to use on trim and doors before painting. I’m painting over semigloss. And putting semigloss back on
150 or 220 grit
How do you know what grit to use for stuff? Is there a rule of thumb?
Hello. Could you please give me your best advice on choosing the most durable water based for my wooden framed windows? Using 80 grit sandpaper I spent hours & days hand sanding x 4 wooden sash window frames. I sanded off old layers of yellowed gloss leaving behind a thin layer of gloss which I can now see the wood grain through. I now have trust issues finding the most durable water based paints for my interior. I want to be 100% sure I am choosing the right paint system so I don't have to re-do all my efforts ? I am new to water based paints. So how would I go about this ? Do I need to prime ? uncoat ? Please tell me the most professional trustworthy durable pants recommended with the longest lasting effect ? Regards Micheal
I'd recommend using Fresh Start primer from Benjamin Moore, then top coating with Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel from Sherwin Williams. That's one of my favorite combos currently. Emerald Urethane is a hybrid trim paint, but is technically water-based so it's relatively easy to work with.
Is emerald latex semigloss good for doors/trim?
It’s decent. We’ve switched over to Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel in Semi-Gloss which is a hybrid. It’s quite durable and has a great finish.
Thanks for your reply
I've never understood why all these painters don't use a roller to apply paint to door frames. I paint a door frame, front, middle and back in about 20 seconds then finish the bottoms and corners with my brush....easy pezzy.
The reason would be to have a consistent brushed finish on a doorframe. That is common preference for many folks.
@@SuperVassarBrothers run your brush up and down it....done.
I always love how “joe expert” knows better than the pro who does this for a living. Never cease to amaze me how they show the arrogance and ignorance at the same time. Happens in my line of work as well. Appreciate your expertise and think Steve is an ass.
@stevebeckett3319....I'm asking in the nicest way possible....how does one paint a door frame with a roller successfully considering the door frame has a door stop right in the middle of the frame? Are you using a really small roller? And if you were using a really small roller, wouldn't you need a brush to get into the edges of the center door stop molding? I would think a roller couldn't be any wider than 1 1/2 to be able to paint the frame unless you took the door off its hinges. Please explain. Thank you 😊
I'm not Steve, but I'd take the door off
Isn't there like a one coat paint?
The amount of coats is very much dependent on the situation. If you have a significant color change then most of the time you're looking at two coats. If you're going over the same color, like recoating trim, then a lot of times you can get away with 1 coat. Most of the paint that is marketed as a "one coat" solution is nonsense. There's no way they can guarantee that result with different colors.
We do two coats on just about everything because we want predictable high quality results. Also the second coat goes on significantly quicker than the first. All the hard work is done at that point.
How long between coats?
Depends on the product. 2 hours is usually sufficient
Got it
why didn't you sand the door frame?
I’ll sand it if it needs it but this one was good to go.
I'm always shocked that you never take the door hinges off. Wouldn't it be quicker to just remove them?
It’s not for us, particularly when when we’re doing 10+ doors. It becomes a challenge finding a place for them all. It’s actually quite convenient to leave them hanging and do it like we did in the video. We do that 99% of the time and we’re quite fast at it.
Also might have some alignment issues. Best to pull the pins and remove door.
It’s easy to hand paint frames
Indeed it is 👍
no need for tape. by the time you put it on and cut it to size, you could have finished the frame. a super soft brush is better for that moulding.
I don’t tape hinges when I paint frames. This video is meant for DIYers / beginners so that’s why we included that part
lol why's the door still on the frame???
Hi RobotEyes. No place to put the door and usually this method is faster for us.
If it’s polyurethane over hard wood floors you’ll never want to put tape directly on the hardwood floors, fyi
It depends on the state of the poly. As long as it’s not super old and worn, it’s ok to use the yellow frog tape. It’s never a good idea to leave the tape on for an extended period of time. That’s when you run into issues with the tape marrying into the poly and ripping off the finish.
@@SuperVassarBrothers as much as it cost and the effort to restore my floors I’m not gonna risk it lol.
now if you're a professional painter why aren't you wearing white painter's pants
I refuse. I will not wear white painter's pants or drive a creepy van.
@@SuperVassarBrothershell yeah 🤙
Fu💨k the van...!! 👌🤣🎨🖌️
Millenials break all the rules....Boomers & GenX are the only ones still wearing white 😂
whites are the best. light weight, comfortable, keep you cooler. those heavy thick denim brown pants are not for painting and raise your temperature about ten degrees.
If only it were always this easy. Taping everything off is such a PITA and the worst part of painting.
You get faster with reps. Also the better you get with a brush the less you have to tape. I tape more in these videos cause most folks end up taping
Take the door off dude
You take the door off Dave :)
It's not practical and faster
How long should I wait for the second coat
You might be a good handyman but that is not how professional painters do door jambs!!!
There is a technique and you're not getting it
Cool story. I’ve never been a handyman, but I’ve been painting professionally for over 20 years…I suppose someone should inform my clients about your discovery
@@SuperVassarBrothers when people toss number of years around, I guess we're just supposed to believe them. are you red seal qualified?
How long to prep & paint one door?
I have FIVE (5) to paint
That all depends on your level of skill. You can get each door prepped in 5-10 minutes. Then a good goal to shoot for when painting (particularly if you’re new to it) is to try and paint 1 side of a door in under 10 minutes