Game Changer: Keep Multiple Animals Sharp At The Same Time
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ค. 2024
- Have you ever run into a situation where you had multiple animals in the frame and just couldn't find a way to keep them all sharp at the same time - even when you stopped down? This is actually really common for close and mid-range shots of small to medium-sized wildlife. In fact, most of the time there's no conventional way to make both animals sharp unless they are on the same focus plane.
However, there is a really cool unconventional way to do it! In this video, I'll show you a handy field / Photoshop technique that will allow you to do the impossible. Check it out!
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While Steve is worrying about getting multiple critters in focus I am still trying to get one in focus 😂
LOL, still happens to me too sometimes!!
😀😀😀😀
I'm glad to see you using the universially agreed-upon standard distance unit of a prairie dog width (pdw), the conversion I believe is 1 pdw = 1.78 cm:-)
Excellent technique Steve. The only thing I would add, to aid in manually aligning two images is to set the top layer to the " difference " blend mode. This allows you to visually see very easily the alignment of the two layers rather than trying to eyeball it with the upper layer having opacity set to low. Do give it a try 😉👍
Just did - and you're right - that's a really good way to do it!!
You know, with mirrorless cameras getting better and better, I'm surprised nobody has made a dual stage eye AF for exactly this.
Select the targets and shooting sequence, then just press the shutter release and have it shoot 1 or 2 super quick frames.
Much easier way to align manually than you suggested - overlay the one image, set the overlay mode to difference - when aligned - the parts perfectly aligned go perfectly black... done!
That is what I do too.
I've learned SO much from your videos & e-books. I'm working through your focus stacking series now and it's just awesome. Thanks Steve! 🤓📷
Thanks for this tutorial. I recently purchased the Focus Shifting class and am now getting some great, well focused images.
So good Steve! I learn so much from your videos. Keep them coming.
I've used this technique in the past, but you have some nice refinements that will make things both easier and more precise. Thanks, Steve!
Hello Steve, What a great tip/method, Keep well, keep save and be happy.
Thanks Steve. I watch all your videos and it is very informative. It is also useful to sharpen photographic skill !!!
Super video Steve. Very concise and helpful as always. Thank you.
Thanks, need to practice this field workflow, remembering to take shift focus isn't something that comes without practice.
Excellent video and technique. And your explanations are clear. Thank you!
As the saying goes, another ‘eye opener’ for me Steve. Thanks. Much appreciated.
Brilliant, and expertly explained as always. Thank you!
Totally agree with your presentation. Great post!
Wow. That's amazing Steve.
Excellent, super professional video thanks Steve
This will be good, thanks Steve.
Short, concise and to the point!!
Funny, there are plenty of YT videos on how to photograph groups of humans (and which discuss how to get them in focus) yet none I've seen suggests this. Once again, Steve proves his worth! Great job!
Excellent tip, thanks a lot! I'll try it as soon as possible...
Thanks for another great video, Steve!
Steve, I am new to your site. It is amazing. I also like your instruction techniques. Thanks for your hard work.
Fantastic video on technique and photoshop education.
Great Video!! Awesome tips!! Thank you!
Unique and to the point content as always... thanks a lot.
Top class, many thanks .
Excellent tips...thanks.
Great tip, thanks Steve.
Always is good to learn tricks, I knew this technique before ,for stacking long exposure waterfalls and getting the foreground sharp as well, then macro photography relies heavily on stacking up to hundreds of photographs... I think the post production presented in the video is the easiest part as for me, the hard part would be have the two subjects pretty well sharp captured, more over the fact I think your channel focuses on wild life... thats the real challenge. I was editing a picture with exactly this problem, was a family of 4 raccoon members... and they move fast... impossible to apply this technique... then experience teaches a lesson .... thanks for the video Steve.
Happy New Year dude, u are great!
Thanks Steve. I have tried this using Affinity Photo and it works great 👍
One little tip form macro focus stacking. When you use auto blend layers you can create a duplicate of the layers before stacking, and then use the base layers with a mask to very quickly touch up the portions which auto blend layers messed up. It would work brilliantly with a simple composition like this with two images. Or you can place one in relation to one of the blended layers and make positive or negative edits to the blend layer mask, though I tend to simply keep those as rendered by Photoshop.
You can also technically edit the masks auto blend layers creates, but that ends up being a big fuss without normal layers to reference.
Done properly this approach works quite brilliantly even for 5-20 layers of focus stacked images rendered with a simple rocking motion on a subject like a butterfly or even a snowflake.
I have a different technique that you might appreciate. I use back button focus. Position my focus point such as to frame the SECOND bird, lets say mom. Then I shift my camera to focus on the first bird (Baby), then reframe again on mom, who is now out of focus. Take the shot for baby, then quick hit the back button focus, which should be on mom, then take the second shot. Basically I'm taking the first shot with the focus point already on the second subject. Then refocus for the second shot. I have found that this is quicker than the other method you have described here, and quickness in these situations can be the difference between getting something that I can use and not.
Also when moving the photos around in Photoshop manually, I set the blend mode of the photo I'm moving and have lowered the opacity of, to "difference". Seems to help me line them up. Also I frequently use the arrow keys for fine adjustments.
Thanks for the video!
Thanks. Great stuff!
Very nice, tnx for sharing.
Great video, excellent tips.
So this is to be done .Becoming a fan of you Steve
Thanks Steve.
Excellent.
I know nothin abt photos but i love to watch your videos ❤️👌
Great tutorial as always 👌
thank you very much this tutorial
Excellent Sir❤️
Rest of the world: use the metric system
America: 1:35
LOL, I know... I actually prefer metric, but most of my viewers are in the US so....
I really do wish the US would just switch over - they teach it in schools here, not sure why we're stuck with the imperial system.
Does the rest of the world have the Internet? If so, they can - get this - Google the conversion. But I'm not sure how many TH-camrs are on the Internet.
@@gyozakeynsianism I was just making a joke lol
@@backcountrygallery I use a little bit of both. For short distance I use inches and feet, for longer distances I'll use meters, but then I switch to miles. For wrenches and ratchets I much prefer metric.
@@christophnachname3223 So was I. Mine was just snarkier. :-D
You are the BEST !!!!
Good learning brother ❤️
Toller Trick danke!
Awesome as always..
Thanks
Awesome tip 👌
As usual, thanks for great conttent.
Thank u ❤️
great tutorial!
I suppose the auto focus stack capabilities on the D850 (from a tripod) would be more cumbersome in post perhaps, and would possibly still have blending issues requiring some manual work anyways. Great video, Steve, per usual. Many thanks.
Yup, too slow. I use focus stacking for small animals like frogs, lizards, etc, but birds and mammals are too fleeting.
very useful!
I have heard that in some of the latest Nikon you have an automated focus shift mode that will help to create the photos with the different focus position. Is that true and have you try it for this purpose ? Thanks!
Edit: I saw the answer in one of the comments. Sorry 😅
In product photog we often use a tilt/shift to drop the focus where its needed.
For wildlife its probably less practical than focus stacking.
Q: Do you use the stacking function in the D850?
It's tough to tilt / shift with a. 600mm :D
The stacking feature is usually too slow by the time you get to the menu, set everything, and get the stack done. It's not impossible for some subjects, but the way I show in the video is more slickly to give you a useable set of pics.
Super video thank you so much, and a question please, what do you think about mirrorless new cameras? Do you recommend them?
Depends what you need, but I'm shooting mostly mirrorless now (although, I do give some love to my D6 from time to time).
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐thanks for the tips
When lowering the opacity on top layer change blend mode to difference then when lined up it turns black.
Great video Steve! I've never tried focus stacking but you've inspired me to try. Looking forward to the next video!
BTW really love that image of the turkeys.
Brillant!
When do you give us a review of bif with the z7ii/z6ii?
Hi Steve, I am an eager follower of your channel. As always, tremendous content. Are you planning to do the Z7ii? I would love to hear your take about the improvements you saw and how close it is now to D850?
BTW, if it not obvious, talking about the quickness of acquire and tracking autofocus only.
I have one on order and am planning a "new features" review in the coming weeks.
@@backcountrygallery look forward to that one. Thank you!
wow, it is cool!
I would like to request you to make a specific video tutorial for - 'Shooting small birds from a distance '.
Mind ....blown
As usual, one word : BRILLANT
Full stop.
You know where this works really well? Short Eared Owlets 😁
Is there a kind of “short cut” to activate the foto stacking? As it is kind of deep in the menu, it’ll take same time to select and set up?
I was hoping for something else: A control of the depth of field when you take the image, not the post process. I "cut the cord" from Adobe, as I am not willing to subscribe to software, so these recommendations in your video are merely a directive to me.
Once upon a time, behind seven hills and rivers, there was a happy company called Canon. They used to have the "depth of field automatic" in their cameras. Now we do not have it anymore. This worked in EOS-3 as follows: Focus center on close element, press shutter. Focus center of far element, press shutter. Compose the image, press shutter. The camera focused on a place between close and far element, and closed aperture so that they both were in focus. Super!
Later on the consumer grade Canons used to have something simpler: Any element in the center group of sensors was measured in their distance and aperture was closed so that they all were in focus. Great for spontaneous snaps of groups of people, sitting in a different distance from each other.
Personally I see the depth of field as the most difficult aspect to control in photography, especially when speed of composing is a factor. Such automatic would greatly support you in your quest to get a group of animals in a perfect focus.
If you want a free and almost equivalent tool for photo editing I find the combo darktable/gimp really efficient and you can do that with these tools
Digital control of manual focus would be nice to have...
THANKS A TON STEVE FOR THIS VIDEO
I was birding in eastern Himalayas and came across a pair of Hoary throated Barwings. They were not in the same plane and event with f18 (D500+200-500mm) I couldn't get both on focus. Took some 50+ shots. Luckily I saw this video and this idea came to my mind and holding the hand steady I focused male & female separately and took pictures. Bingo it came so well. Thanks & all credit goes to you. Game changer indeed. Following is the link to the post
instagram.com/p/CNzyvlng_zC/
For Nikon Z users: touch focus.
What's time now in your contry. ..? Please tell me
I have to do this for my macro shots. But not with Photoshop
Would just swapping eyes work on some shots?
I think I played with that idea years ago and it looked remarkably weird.
I recently ran into the same situation, while shooting two small birds ( scaly-breasted munia ). Both were in a very interesting posture and I wanted to get both of them to be sharp....but it was tricky...tried several shots & only two came out to be good enough. Had I known this photoshop tecnique, I would have been in a good peace of mind. Thanks Steve for such a nice & useful game changer TIP.
There's actually a slightly better way. 1st compose photo with the af point on one of the eyes. then move the CAMERA until the point is on the second eye and then activate AF on it. Recompose to the original composition with the af point over the blurry eye. take a frame WITHOUT activating AF and immediately fire another shot WITH AF activated. the result will be almost identical framing with both frames taken at around your fps apart.
That would work too - my only concern is that everything would have to be really, really still while you did it. Tripods, very stationery animals, etc. I think it would have worked for the photo of the two owls in this video, but no way for the turkeys - too easy to move slightly forward or back while recomposing with the monopod (and same would apply for hand-held). Still, I think it's a good idea under the right conditions.
@@backcountrygallery I think you may misunderstand. the method I described only has the time of a single frame apart so its actually the superior method for animals that move a bit.
@@wespeterson8265 What I worry about is after I focus the first time and move the camera, if I move slightly forward or back in the process (as can happen on a slipper hill with a monopod!), then when I take the first shot the focus would be off for the initial subject.
Stuffed animals are the way to go no move
SIR I RAMAKANT KANITKAR FROM INDIA AGE 60÷ DOING SOME WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY I WANT TO ASSIST PERSON LIKE U. SIR IS IT POSSIBLE.
Perry Mr autofocus.
LOL
Focus stacking 🤷♂️
Hi uncle. ..my name is Ahan kiran from India. ..my age is 9 years. ..always I watching your youtube video with my dad. ..I love you. ..my question is why don't we use clone toll for this. . (My dad is don't letting me to use his phone. ..I doing little bit photo shooting. That's why I always watching your video. ..thanks you Uncle. ..by Ahan kiran. .India
I use helicon for this
Its a nice idea but I doubt in reality you would get away with this very often, by the time you shifted from one animal to the other and re focused I think they would have moved. Even a tiny movement of the head would make this process impossible to achieve. Interesting though Steve, how many times have you used it succesfully? Stay well buddy :-)
I've been doing it for eight years now. As I mention in the video, there are a few things that need to happen, but I can take a set in a matter of seconds. At 2:54 in the video is a good example. This pair of fly catchers was busy working on their nest and I had all of 4 seconds to pull this off. I did it as a "just in case" shot because I thought maybe one shot would do it. However, I'm glad I grabbed 'em both. Also all the pics you see in the video after the first two (elk and B&W elephants) were done with this technique.
@@backcountrygallery Hi Steve, I don't doubt that it has its uses and I might even give it a try but unless I super glue my subjects it may prove difficult. :-) Christmas wishes to you and your loved ones. I always enjoy watching your content.
To me that is a lot of faffing around. I guess you used single point focus and single point metering. Instead in this instance use matrix with auto area or even 9 point. Use an F stop of between f11-f16 and treat several animals as if you are doing landscape where everything needs to be in focus. This is what I do when I have several animals in the frame and I get them all perfectly clear and no need to mess around on a computer editing the photos after.
Virtually none of that is accurate. Did you watch the video where I showed what happens at close range even when you stop down to F/13 (the prairie dogs)? That wasn't even close and this is very typical for medium ~ small subjects at medium ~ close range. If you're too far back and cropping like crazy, then those F/stops can work just fine, but if your field technique is good and you get close, it's a problem. It also seems you're confusing metering and AF a bit. That was matrix and it was single point - spot metering in the example photo would have results in two wildly different exposures. The reason for single point is that the other modes are apt to focus somewhere other than the eye (depends on the mode). In addition, having more AF points doesn't mean the system will somehow get both subjects sharp - that's now how it works.
@@backcountrygallery Sorry I should have mentioned using a large telephoto lens at some distance would give the desired effect. Yes close up what you said is correct. I usually use just single point with matrix in that situation too, but have found like you not everything is always in focus when many animals or birds in the frame. That is why sometimes using full frame metering while moving back from the subject with a long zoom, i use a 600mm zoom, which naturally gives a narrow depth of field even at those f stops. Otherwise closer single objects I use single point and single focus point with a low f stop number. For me what I told you has worked well in most cases, especially as I don't like spending ages on a computer editing photos. May be it is just me, but have always prefered to try to get a great shot by messing about with settings on the camera instead. Doesn't always work, certainly some failures, but it is fun to try. But I like your channel and the info you provide is great, however.
Regards
@@shizenjapan I actually agree about getting it right in the field when you can. I too have little desire to mess around on the computer if it's not necessary :)
Hi Steve, you are the best wildlife photographer in youtube but do you regret locking yourself in Nikon universe? Things are not going well for Nikon as many others suggest. Do you plan to move to Canon or Sony?
Thanks for the kind words :) For the record, I have both Nikon and Sony :) In fact, the video example would have been easier with the a9ii since I could move my AF option anywhere, but I was field testing the D6 when I made that image. We're also thinking of renting a Canon R5 to see how that goes. The thing is, right now we're in a transitional state and there's no telling who will have the best system for wildlife three to five years from now. It's tricky to guess right now based on current bodies (remember, before the R5 canon's mirrorless was about the same level as Nikon or even a notch below). Still, right now, I am starting to favor Sony a bit - although, I also remember how Nikon lagged behind with DSLRs until the D3 too.
I subscribed your chanel. ..don't tell my dady