@El-Scorcho Delta King 12. Probably the last valve amp I'll ever buy.. So now I'm aware of the disappointing corner cutting build quality, I'll be extra cautious using it, At least the blow-out sales price I paid is a more realistic value for it's less than satisfactory quality control. I doubt at my advanced age I'll ever gig again, so home project studio recording only. With careful use it might hopefully last longer than I expect to.
I had a similar issue with a DSL40CR. The PCB seems to have a centralized ground point on a screw in the middle of the board. And this screw (along with all the others) was covered in some rubbery blue stuff (loctite?) that had gotten under the head, and between the board and the standoff, and made a poor ground connection. After cleaning all the screws, the noise floor dropped considerably.
I might be snooty but I can't bring myself to buy non hand wired amps anymore. I don't want to bring my local amp repair guy something that makes him pissed off to work on.
I did have to send this amp into supro for repair (under warranty) because the mix line out wasn't working correctly (very very quiet). There was a soldering issue. Based on this vid, it seems like soldering might be a common issue.
Hi, thanks for the video. I was considering purchasing a Supro Motauk (or poss Amulet). Wondering whether this is a bad idea now. I'm looking fir a decent tube amp, ideally with spring reverb and control over distortion/breakup at lower volumes ( also liked the montauks output options). Can anyone recommend a decent alternative with simalar spec within that price range? Thanks
Shame you had to go through all that. At least now, it has become a serviceable and functional amp. Above all it should arguably be one of the most dependable Supro amps out there.
I'm gonna assume (we both know that can be dangerous LOL) that there are too many bits on the populated side for that to be practical. I'm sure there could be a way of doing it but would probably be too expensive to make en masse.
@@travismccartney I'm of the opinion that *properly designed* PCB construction is superior to hand wiring and it's certainly easier to consistently manufacture. That's a big caveat though! There is surely a shortage of competent engineers who have experience in working with high voltage tube circuits, for obvious reasons. So, companies end up hiring people better suited to designing computers and cellphones...and it shows.
True. Many 50's radios have that feature even if they are point to point handwired. So you almost never need to remove chassis from the cabinet to replace components. I have built amps like that because if you want to mod something, you just flip it over and can access most components without need to remove chassis at all.
i have a Supro Comet , i sold my Marshall, Orange and Fender cause he kills them all, no problem whatsoever . I don't know if the Comet is a different animal from this, but to me it's THE keeper (message to be the one from the loser side)
May I ask for your thoughts on a Vox AC30? I want an amp that I can control the gain from my strat volume knob eg. brian may, and that’s why i thought of an AC30.
Loctite should be re-branded as "Screwtite" followed by a big question mark and packaged with instructions that all hardware be tightened before applying product. (who am I kidding - nobody reads directions anymore.)
Your foreground/background separation is amazing.
Thanks! Skin tones and reflective surfaces have been the hardest things to get right.
These videos give me so much confidence in the brand new Supro amp I am waiting to have delivered this week...
Which one did you get?
@El-Scorcho Delta King 12. Probably the last valve amp I'll ever buy.. So now I'm aware of the disappointing corner cutting build quality, I'll be extra cautious using it, At least the blow-out sales price I paid is a more realistic value for it's less than satisfactory quality control. I doubt at my advanced age I'll ever gig again, so home project studio recording only. With careful use it might hopefully last longer than I expect to.
I had a similar issue with a DSL40CR. The PCB seems to have a centralized ground point on a screw in the middle of the board. And this screw (along with all the others) was covered in some rubbery blue stuff (loctite?) that had gotten under the head, and between the board and the standoff, and made a poor ground connection. After cleaning all the screws, the noise floor dropped considerably.
So glad 3 of my 4 amps are hand wired.
I might be snooty but I can't bring myself to buy non hand wired amps anymore. I don't want to bring my local amp repair guy something that makes him pissed off to work on.
Mahalo Lyle! Too bad the Supro fall short.
I have this amp and these vids are scaring me a bit. Haha!
I did have to send this amp into supro for repair (under warranty) because the mix line out wasn't working correctly (very very quiet). There was a soldering issue. Based on this vid, it seems like soldering might be a common issue.
Good amp vid for Halloween. I’m scared to death. Giving mesa a run for their money
Hey Teach, it may not've been "some valuable amp from '67",
But it is NOW (Mwah ha ha)
Hi, thanks for the video. I was considering purchasing a Supro Motauk (or poss Amulet). Wondering whether this is a bad idea now. I'm looking fir a decent tube amp, ideally with spring reverb and control over distortion/breakup at lower volumes ( also liked the montauks output options). Can anyone recommend a decent alternative with simalar spec within that price range? Thanks
You are awesome. Do you have any experience with the 80.s original versions of the Dean Markley CD series combos? What do you think?
If I DO like the sounds, think it's worth getting a used one for 450???
Nice catch
Although I fully understand why you took the trouble to sort out the possible board flex , would it have been noticeable under normal use?
Yes, the amp made weird sounds and cut out when playing bass notes.
Shame you had to go through all that. At least now, it has become a serviceable and functional amp. Above all it should arguably be one of the most dependable Supro amps out there.
Damn pcbs lol ... they should start making chassis with trap doors to access the other side of the board...
I'm gonna assume (we both know that can be dangerous LOL) that there are too many bits on the populated side for that to be practical. I'm sure there could be a way of doing it but would probably be too expensive to make en masse.
There is nothing wrong with PCBs. There is plenty wrong with poor design choices though.
@@travismccartney I'm of the opinion that *properly designed* PCB construction is superior to hand wiring and it's certainly easier to consistently manufacture. That's a big caveat though! There is surely a shortage of competent engineers who have experience in working with high voltage tube circuits, for obvious reasons. So, companies end up hiring people better suited to designing computers and cellphones...and it shows.
True. Many 50's radios have that feature even if they are point to point handwired. So you almost never need to remove chassis from the cabinet to replace components. I have built amps like that because if you want to mod something, you just flip it over and can access most components without need to remove chassis at all.
@@travismccartney agreed
i have a Supro Comet , i sold my Marshall, Orange and Fender cause he kills them all, no problem whatsoever . I don't know if the Comet is a different animal from this, but to me it's THE keeper (message to be the one from the loser side)
I thought the new Supros were decent amps, this surprised me. It would seem to have a build equal to Bugera, not great.
May I ask for your thoughts on a Vox AC30? I want an amp that I can control the gain from my strat volume knob eg. brian may, and that’s why i thought of an AC30.
I’ve got tons of various AC30 series on here. I really like the AC30C2X.
@@PsionicAudio Thanks for replying :) I’m concerned about build quality too. I’ll check out the C2x
Bean counters...!!!
You're always right
Loctite should be re-branded as "Screwtite" followed by a big question mark and packaged with instructions that all hardware be tightened before applying product. (who am I kidding - nobody reads directions anymore.)
just dosnt make sense to buy a single ended amp these days
Red Loc Tite? I hope it was violet Loc Tite and not red.
Those pots are awful. I've had it replace a few.
Damn ....