Great vid bud. Little tip I learned from my miniature painting days to get yellow to pop and go down easy. Do a base coat of pink then apply the yellow. Super vibrant and pops
@The Model Guy Great Mustang build - I’ve got 2 Eduard Mustangs that I plan to do as F-51’s. Here’s a tip for filling panel lines: mix some superglue & baby powder/talcum powder to make a paste. The powder slows the drying time of the superglue & when it’s dry makes it easier & quicker to sand smooth. Tip #2: pastel chalks rubbed on sandpaper creates a fine powder. It’s possible to mix them to create custom colours. Dip the point of your brush into dishwash liquid & apply to the area you want streaks or exhaust stains & leave it to dry. This will leave the surface tacky without interfering with the metal lustre then just brush the pastel chalks over the area, building it up in layers till your happy. I’ve used both these techniques on a previous Mustang build , kind of a practice before starting the Eduard kits.
I like the video of your P-51 D mustang as well. Yes, I agree that the tutorials can give you such excellent advises as well. One of these helped me to do the Yugoslav Stuka in scale such as 1/72. You can as well see it if you are interested. I used a pencil to do the panel lines, and it turned out nicely as well.
Looks 👍 I found a few bottles of Testers metallic sealer. It works great to seal the AK metal colors without changing their sheen. Hard to find now. Aqua Gloss works pretty good to seal it in as well....
Very nice build, great job. That scheme is really vibrant and contrasting, using oils really helps detail to pop. Have you tried using a buff colour under yellow? Your tip with the newer Eduard decals looks worth trying although I'm less convinced with removing carrier film with tape. A definite pucker moment!
One of my favourite modelling channels and I just discovered it a couple days ago. Of course I love the models and all the infos you provide, but also your whole... philosophy? on modelling. Keep pushing yourself, think about what you are doing and why you are doing it and keep progressing and developing. Reminds me of Doog's Models' approach. I would never talk smack about other peoples models, but sometimes I see models from people who are building for years and the models pretty much look like the ones from years ago because they always build it like they learned it when they started. And I think thats kinda sad. Anyway, great content.
Thanks for your comment Farce :) I don't think it's a secret that I take a lot of my inspiration from Doog. But you are right, there are people who are happy with the process and that's fine. But to me, if I am not trying new or different approaches I am not going to improve my skills. Or even worse, get bored :S
@@TheModelGuy I refer to Doogs channel often too - some great tips & techniques. There are a few others like Flory, Plasmo etc. I’ve added a comment on 2 techniques that I picked up from TH-cam that may be useful for future builds.
It's a great kit, minus slightly too thin legs and too thin sliding canopy frame, but it took me 2 days to get the wings smooth, and then the rest of the detail was soft, so I had a full wing strip down for a third or fourth day of work. This wing thing is a race between getting it consistent before the rest of the detail softens from the multiple resprays... This is the ideal kit to make multiple builds, but not with these wings. Why can't they use some common sense, and provide two set of wings, one smooth? Doing this panel line filling even marginally neat and consistent, over such long stretches, is a pure nightmare, especially because of the gun bays right in the middle of it all, as you experienced. This P-51 would otherwise be one of the more pleasant builds out there.
The thing I've been experimenting with and found a new way that I like better is airbrush pressure. I started off airbrushing in the 25-30psi range pretty much all the time. These days I'm mostly in the 15-20psi range with much thinner paint, and it's a very good experience.
A thought about fuel stains. I love your videos, but why make a fuel stain look like an oil leak? I was a US Air Force Crew Chief so this bugs. A leak from an overfilled fuel cap would have a wet look, almost clear. On flat camouflage it's somewhat shiny, but not brown. AV gas or JP-4 or JP-7 are almost clear. Dust might stick in a dusty environment. Thank you again for so many great tips to try.
Thanks Robert. I wanted to try something different on this build and truth be told I'm not happy with it. It's Plasmo's style and although artistic, in hindsight I'm not a fan. My Corsair I used the Mig fuel stains for the clear look.
Amazing work! I’m just getting into models, I see a lot of different tools used but am having a difficult time finding where I can order them, where is a great place to find all the tools needed? Also what model stand are you using for painting?
Awesome build! I recently picked up a silhouette machine for making masks. Could you do a quick how to on how you get the raf roundels to line up when applying masks and painting the 3 or 4 different colours? I am struggling with getting them lined up
RAF roundels are very difficult. I see other people draw an X over them before peeling from the backing to help with alignment. I just struggle until it looks right :) Let me know if this helps at all: th-cam.com/video/d2z45-4b7k8/w-d-xo.html
Wow, what a challenging build in terms of puttying the wings and painting all the markings and keeping the lines parallel. For OPR on gloss, would a thicker oil be easier to work with?
Hey Woody! What affects the oils is the type of gloss. A flat coat holds the oil where as glossy gloss just lets oils slide around. Semi-gloss lets you do both. But as soon as a flat or semi flat hits the aluminum it loses the luster
Have you thought about using a semi-gloss cote? It's what I use for my NMF when I use oils for weathering. It's not so glossy that they'll run off and not so flat that it sticks in place. You also still have a shine as well. I'd post a picture of my P-51 and MiG 17 to show you how it turns out.
Another place in Canada for Mr Hobby is Sunward Hobbies located in Toronto. They have a great selection of paint/products form several manufacturers and free shipping over $60 CDN (at least in Ontario). Their prices on paint is competitive and I usually get my orders the next day, two max living in the Niagara region. I've ordered from them several times and they provide great service.
@@Maddog-nb9vu I don't qualify for their free shipping..I'm too rural. Panda Hobby is $15 flat so that works for me. But when I was in a town I abused that free shipping from Sunward all the time
A little off topic but th-cam.com/video/6eYOZNjUqp4/w-d-xo.html is an excellent short 14 minute movie set in Scotland during the Battle of Britain. Great spitfire flying sequence and in the notes is a link to how they made it. A lot of models involved. Great site Rob.
I can’t get this NMF right ! You did a fantastic job .
Really nice build. One of your best. Here's something to try: put down a layer of pink under yellow. The yellow top coat comes out Really vibrant.
Thanks Stephen! I'll definitely try that.
Great vid bud. Little tip I learned from my miniature painting days to get yellow to pop and go down easy. Do a base coat of pink then apply the yellow. Super vibrant and pops
Pretty cool! I wasn’t aware of your channel until today. Lots of nice tips shared here and lots of good content to add to my library 🙌🏼👍🏼💪🏼
Be sure to tell your friends :)
@The Model Guy
Great Mustang build - I’ve got 2 Eduard Mustangs that I plan to do as F-51’s.
Here’s a tip for filling panel lines: mix some superglue & baby powder/talcum powder to make a paste. The powder slows the drying time of the superglue & when it’s dry makes it easier & quicker to sand smooth.
Tip #2: pastel chalks rubbed on sandpaper creates a fine powder. It’s possible to mix them to create custom colours. Dip the point of your brush into dishwash liquid & apply to the area you want streaks or exhaust stains & leave it to dry. This will leave the surface tacky without interfering with the metal lustre then just brush the pastel chalks over the area, building it up in layers till your happy.
I’ve used both these techniques on a previous Mustang build , kind of a practice before starting the Eduard kits.
*P-51 is a major aircraft subject of WW2, 👏👏for your beautiful model!*
I like the video of your P-51 D mustang as well.
Yes, I agree that the tutorials can give you such excellent advises as well. One of these helped me to do the Yugoslav Stuka in scale such as 1/72. You can as well see it if you are interested. I used a pencil to do the panel lines, and it turned out nicely as well.
Looks 👍
I found a few bottles of Testers metallic sealer. It works great to seal the AK metal colors without changing their sheen. Hard to find now.
Aqua Gloss works pretty good to seal it in as well....
Painting yellow is always a challenge for me.
Outstanding!
Very nice build, great job. That scheme is really vibrant and contrasting, using oils really helps detail to pop. Have you tried using a buff colour under yellow?
Your tip with the newer Eduard decals looks worth trying although I'm less convinced with removing carrier film with tape. A definite pucker moment!
One of my favourite modelling channels and I just discovered it a couple days ago. Of course I love the models and all the infos you provide, but also your whole... philosophy? on modelling. Keep pushing yourself, think about what you are doing and why you are doing it and keep progressing and developing. Reminds me of Doog's Models' approach. I would never talk smack about other peoples models, but sometimes I see models from people who are building for years and the models pretty much look like the ones from years ago because they always build it like they learned it when they started. And I think thats kinda sad. Anyway, great content.
Thanks for your comment Farce :)
I don't think it's a secret that I take a lot of my inspiration from Doog. But you are right, there are people who are happy with the process and that's fine. But to me, if I am not trying new or different approaches I am not going to improve my skills. Or even worse, get bored :S
@@TheModelGuy Same here. Imagine spending hundreds of Dollars (or in my case Euros), and making modelling a chore that needs to get done or something.
@@TheModelGuy I refer to Doogs channel often too - some great tips & techniques. There are a few others like Flory, Plasmo etc. I’ve added a comment on 2 techniques that I picked up from TH-cam that may be useful for future builds.
If you are having trouble with yellow you can try a pink undercoat like Mr.Finishing Surfacer 1500 Pink
It's a great kit, minus slightly too thin legs and too thin sliding canopy frame, but it took me 2 days to get the wings smooth, and then the rest of the detail was soft, so I had a full wing strip down for a third or fourth day of work. This wing thing is a race between getting it consistent before the rest of the detail softens from the multiple resprays... This is the ideal kit to make multiple builds, but not with these wings. Why can't they use some common sense, and provide two set of wings, one smooth? Doing this panel line filling even marginally neat and consistent, over such long stretches, is a pure nightmare, especially because of the gun bays right in the middle of it all, as you experienced. This P-51 would otherwise be one of the more pleasant builds out there.
The thing I've been experimenting with and found a new way that I like better is airbrush pressure. I started off airbrushing in the 25-30psi range pretty much all the time. These days I'm mostly in the 15-20psi range with much thinner paint, and it's a very good experience.
What type of paint are you using? Acrylics? Lacquers?
@@TheModelGuy primarily acrylics, with lacquers added recently. Vallejo, ProAcryl, Tamiya mostly.
A thought about fuel stains. I love your videos, but why make a fuel stain look like an oil leak? I was a US Air Force Crew Chief so this bugs. A leak from an overfilled fuel cap would have a wet look, almost clear. On flat camouflage it's somewhat shiny, but not brown. AV gas or JP-4 or JP-7 are almost clear. Dust might stick in a dusty environment. Thank you again for so many great tips to try.
Thanks Robert. I wanted to try something different on this build and truth be told I'm not happy with it. It's Plasmo's style and although artistic, in hindsight I'm not a fan. My Corsair I used the Mig fuel stains for the clear look.
Very nice 👍
Amazing work! I’m just getting into models, I see a lot of different tools used but am having a difficult time finding where I can order them, where is a great place to find all the tools needed? Also what model stand are you using for painting?
Awesome build! I recently picked up a silhouette machine for making masks. Could you do a quick how to on how you get the raf roundels to line up when applying masks and painting the 3 or 4 different colours? I am struggling with getting them lined up
RAF roundels are very difficult. I see other people draw an X over them before peeling from the backing to help with alignment. I just struggle until it looks right :)
Let me know if this helps at all:
th-cam.com/video/d2z45-4b7k8/w-d-xo.html
Wow, what a challenging build in terms of puttying the wings and painting all the markings and keeping the lines parallel. For OPR on gloss, would a thicker oil be easier to work with?
Hey Woody!
What affects the oils is the type of gloss. A flat coat holds the oil where as glossy gloss just lets oils slide around. Semi-gloss lets you do both. But as soon as a flat or semi flat hits the aluminum it loses the luster
Fantastic build! I need to get one of these silouete machines. What make and model do you use?
Mine is a cameo 3.
Have you thought about using a semi-gloss cote? It's what I use for my NMF when I use oils for weathering. It's not so glossy that they'll run off and not so flat that it sticks in place. You also still have a shine as well. I'd post a picture of my P-51 and MiG 17 to show you how it turns out.
Let me know where you post that, I'd like to see it. That's my biggest jam up doing NMF
@@TheModelGuy I see that you have an IG account...I can send them there.
Beautiful job, looks like some amazing paint. Where do you get your Mr Color from. Your corsair was outta the park. Great work as always.
Thanks Will. In Canada I order my Mr Color paints from PandaHobby. This was definitely a quick build compared to the Corsair
Another place in Canada for Mr Hobby is Sunward Hobbies located in Toronto. They have a great selection of paint/products form several manufacturers and free shipping over $60 CDN (at least in Ontario). Their prices on paint is competitive and I usually get my orders the next day, two max living in the Niagara region. I've ordered from them several times and they provide great service.
@@Maddog-nb9vu I don't qualify for their free shipping..I'm too rural. Panda Hobby is $15 flat so that works for me. But when I was in a town I abused that free shipping from Sunward all the time
@@Maddog-nb9vu thanks so much.
@@TheModelGuy I'm Rural too. I would just have them sent to my daughters place in town.
I am trying to finish something….
Check out Will Pattison's OPR.
I have and heavily used it on my Corsair build. But the glossy clear presents issues he didn’t address.
Siwek Kazimierz Mustang P-51D III FX 878. Google.
...крааасивоооо....
A little off topic but th-cam.com/video/6eYOZNjUqp4/w-d-xo.html is an excellent short 14 minute movie set in Scotland during the Battle of Britain. Great spitfire flying sequence and in the notes is a link to how they made it. A lot of models involved. Great site Rob.
That was awesome thank-you
Just a comment for the algorithm