Excellent discussion. Just refoamed my D7s and enjoy them just as much as I did back in college ~40 years ago. You have a great balance between tech detail and pragmatics. Thanks for your videos.
Had them both. The D7S tight perfect bass is the real deal. Power them with right amp and you have the best bass for rock I've ever head. I've had many speakers some costing 10 times the price of these two. But the perfect tight punchy bass of the D7S is what I remeber.
@jedhatcher252 It really depends on location. In my area in Canada, a set of D-9s in good condition will sell for around $600 to $800CAN, maybe even more if in mint condition. The D-7s I don't see come up for sale very often. Again, depending on the condition, I would think $400 to $500CAN.
I was given (yes, given) a pair of D7s about 3 years ago and they only needed refoamed around the woofers, all else seemed to be pristine, I didn't even hook them up until refoam was complete. These were to be played along with the Pioneer HPM700s I bought with my Sansui G7700 receiver in Germany 40 years ago. I was absolutely amazed at the response and performance of the D7s, they absolutely blow the HPMs away, the HPMs are excellent speakers but again the D7s put them to shame. I play all four with the D7s enhancing the top end while the HPMs cover the lower frequencies
Two things I'd do on a rebuild/restore is coat the paper cones with some clear acrylic gel coat, you can get either gloss or matte finish. I'd add in a Zobel Network across the midrange in parallel which is a simple LC (Non-Inductive Resistor & Non-Polarized Capacitor) this circuit basically keeps the impedance flat with frequency rise. Simple circuit with good results. Good Video!!!😁👍🏻
DX-7/DX-9 are the ones you want, they are the improved models over d7/d9 Better matched drivers with less complicated crossover Higher efficiency = Better performance
They sure are. I don't know if you've watched any of my videos on restoring these D-9s but they turned out great! I have been using them in my shop for over a year now and they've been awesome considering they get beat on pretty hard almost everyday. I will be pulling them off the big corner shelves they sit on very soon to take some acoustical measurements and possibly upgrading some more of the xover parts to bring them to the next level. I will be making a video on the process sometime in the near future.
Original D9 woofers had exact same texture paper cone as the D7 you show. Recently put fresh ferro fluid into the tweeters (higher power version) as the original fluid was completely dried out. Applied fresh glue to all the inside seams and added some extra dampening inside. Wow they sound as great as they did when new. Great video on these iconic models from the 80's.
They actually had different types of cones right from the factory. Texture is the same yes but colors were slightly different. Some were slightly tinted a blueish color some green and most a darker grey or black color. My guess is the year they were made but I found a lot of minor inconsistencies like that with CV stuff. They basically just used whatever it was they had for parts. Sound wise the specs all the same but different types of builds. Like the midranges on my D7s are an older version usually found in older models like the HED series. My D9s are newer and slightly different but only in the style of baskets. The actual sound specs are the same or close enough. I was going to cover the differences in the midranges in this video but I am going to do another video on these on replacing midrange grills and I decided to cover that in that video instade of this one because the difference in the mids doesn't depend on wether they are D7s or D9s if the mids were different. Being this was just a comparison on the differences of the 2 models it is irrelevant.
@@SavingVegas i have factory schematics for the D9's in PDF format. i can send if interested. also literature for the entire D series in 1984 when i bought my D9s. You are correct on them using parts available, the 1984 literature midranges look similar to the mid's on your D7's and my D9 mid's match your D9 mid's. Love the videos, thanks for making them.
@@alwillis4255 What information might you have on the D8's? I bought a set new back when the came out but the cabinets didn't make it. I pulled all the parts and drew up a small sketch with dimensions in anticipation of rebuilding. Looking for any information known since CV never kept any tech specs.
Hi Saving Vega I'm A Professional Dj Since 1978 And I Remember When Cerwin 1st Came Out In 1954 I've Always Been A Fan But I Favored Peavey When It came To Djing Hugh House parties In 1980 & Disco B4 That In The 70's I Actually Started Djing In 1978 Up To Present Date In 1982 Was When I Got More Interested All Because It Was Advertised That They Where Louder Speakers With A Low Watt Receiver What They Didn't Say Was That They Where 4 Ohm Speakers So I had To Check These Out At A Place Called (Tech Hi-Fi) In Detroit I Forget The Series Possibly S1 Or Something Like That. But Anyway I Recently Bought A Pair At A Re-Sale Shop For 20 Bucks For The Pair VS-100 They Needed Re-Foaming So I Used That To Talk Them Down To 20 Bucks They Wanted 100.00 Bucks And The Cabinets Are Beautiful & Solid No Rattle Tweeter & Mid Are Fine So Now I'm Interested In Getting The One's With The 15Inch Woofer's And Since Your The Man I was Wondering Where You Could Lead Me Or You May Possibly Have A Pair I Can Get As A Project To Work On ?
Great video, I tend to do the same.. Take in gear I like and dont like & some I keep and some I resell.. Sometimes I make a buck and other times I break even. My big joy is saving the gear and giving it a new lease on life while continuing to hone in my skills and play with more gear.. Whatever I make goes to find more projects or towards a piece of gear I really want.. Keep up the good content, Just picked up a pair of DX-7s that I have to re-foam.
Hello I now own a beautiful pair of D7s in great overall condition. Re-foamed about 15yrs ago. Powering them with a Marantz 2275. They sound great but not consistent. My question to you and other on this thread.. should I have the crossovers inspected or updated? The Marantz has been cleaned and inspected a few years ago. Thank you all so much and love this channel 👍
What inconsistencies are you hearing? Usually when a crossover has bad parts it is consistent issue. Do the potentiometers operate properly with no crackling sound when adjusting them? Do the issues change depending on the volume level? If so vibrations could possibly be affecting something, just a thought.
i have a set of pd-9's from 1987 , they do not have the foam surround. a red edge but seems more like a continuation of the speaker material and where can i get a mid replacement? do you update crossovers?
Sorry my friend, I need to ask you one more question. I have been researching the D7 and D9, I just like the idea of a 15" woofer but really need a receiver with a powerful enough amp to handle them. I have a Yamaha 992 putting out 80 watts rms/ channel but back of receiver gives total output of 300 watts. With those #'s would I be better off with the D7's? I'm currently running Pioneer CS-D7001's with 12" woofers @150 watts max each. I had both speakers updated for cross overs, new dust covers and speaker foam. They are in good shape for what they are and sound good but the Cerwin Vega's would be an improvement.
Your hear lots of people always saying that CVs need lots of power, that's actually not the case. The majority of their models have sensitivity ratings in the mid 90dB and some even over 100dB. Sensitivity ratings are found by measuring the SPL from 1 meter away with 1 watt of power. Most speakers today measure high 80s to low or mid 90dB so for this reason CVs are known to be quite sensitive which is not to be confused with efficiency as some models can be quite demanding on some amplifiers. With that said lots of the bigger models can take lots of power and sound great doing so. If you like listening to you music loud and love cranking on the volume knob that's when it becomes necessary to have an amp with bigger power numbers. As for your power amp that's rated 80 watts rms that has 300 watts listed on the back of the unit, the 300 watts is it's power consumption not output. To be honest 80 watts is more then enough to run D-7s or D-9s as long as you don't overdrive your amp no damage will be done. If it's loud you want then I would suggest a high current power amp rated around 200 watts @ 8 ohms.
hi I have a pair D-9 speakers and have refoamed the two times in the last five the keeps falling apart is there a better foam I have purchased them from simply speaker please help!
Enjoy all your vids......another big CV fan here too. Wondering if you might have any 316R's. I see lots of vids about the D series speakers but virtually nothing on the 316's. Wondering what you might think about them....if you're familiar with them......and how they might compare to D series speakers and others? I searched for these 316's for nearly 30 years after seeing my buddy's in Winnipeg back in the mid '80's. Finally found mine on Kijiji in Belleville Ontario some years back now.......and I love them. The original owner paid $1800.00 for them back in 1982.....I got them from him for $450.00. I feel like I stole them. :-) And the best part is.....they are virtually pristine....flawless.....and sound great. Just refoamed the woofers 2 weeks ago....should now be good for another 20 years. Love to hear your thoughts on these bad boys....if you have any. :-) Keep up the good work and thanks again for your vids.
Ah the Hard Rocker Series. I missed out on a set of 316r's about a year and a half ago. This is one of a few speakers I would over pay for if I had to just to own them. Beautiful sounding midrange and just the build quality and size of the cabinet makes it not just a speaker but a piece of furniture lol. I have some 417r's coming in soon. Second owner speakers that the owner says they just don't sound as good as they did the day he got them. Probably going to get some upgraded caps and inductors for the crossover and clean up the potentiometers and so on. I will most definitely be doing some videos or at least one on that project. Those 316r's are gem for sure and I would never let them go. I'm glad you enjoy the videos and I appreciate the support.
@@SavingVegas If I ever decide to sell these bad boys I'll give you first crack at them. :-) I'd give you a heck of a deal on them knowing they'd be in good hands. :-) All though it's likely that the only way they'll leave my possession is if I "will" them to someone when I'm "done". LOL Seems these are pretty darn rare given all the years I searched for a pair. As for pieces of furniture......these were used as end tables for a while at the ends of the previous owner's couch........which resulted in a purplish color wine glass ring stain on top of one. Thankfully I have a wood restoration product that completely removed that wine stain returning these babies back to pristine condition. :-) I'm now considering the possibility of upgrading my receiver/amp to drive these guys. Just not sure yet what kind of amp....what kind of power I need to get these guys performing at their peak.
I'm a little jealous not going to lie. Hopefully I come across some one day. For amps people always seem to recommend pro amps for the dollar per watt. Giving the sensitivity rating 103dB and 150 watt powered rating I would shoot for hifi power amp pre amp combo that is in your price range. For wattage I usually try to get something that exceeds the speakers rating for rms output power or and amp that has really good dynamic power. You have to take in consideration that nobody sits and listens to a single sinewave, you listen to music which is dynamic. Having big power on tap is a good way to not wreck speakers if you know their limitations. Underpowering speakers is the number one cause of speaker failure. An amp with a 200 watt rating would be a good match. I'm always looking for deals on used amps/pre amps and buying and selling to try different setups out, not all equipment sounds the same. Pro amps are nice but most that I have tried seem to sound a little lifeless but that's just my opinion. So far my favorite amp is my Adcom GFA-555. 200 watts per channel at 8 ohms and 600 watts at 8 ohms mono. Dynamically it will do 350 watts per channel before clipping.
@@SavingVegas Unfortunately I just don't know enough about all the technicalities of this stuff........appears I've got lots of reading and head scratching and learning to do. Reading through all the specs of various equipment can be rather confusing sometime. I'm using these 316's as my front speakers of my home theatre system....connected to a denon avr s750h.....in a 5.0 configuration I guess. I'm not using a subwoofer since I get so much base out of these speakers. The specs for it that I've seen so far are conflicting.....and confusing.....I've seen 165 watts per channel....then 75 watts per channel...then 85 watts per channel......then 110 watts per channel somewhere.......so what exactly is it???? Do I have enough power? Do I need more power to get optimal performance out of these speakers? Or am I good with what I've got? Not entirely sure. But not really being a hard core "audiophile" I'm not likely to start getting into the pre-amp and power amp business any time soon I don't think. Not being a sound engineer by any stretch of the imagination...it's sometimes difficult to understand all the ins and outs of this stuff.....for me anyway. :-) Rather than getting too deeply into all the technicalities and specs....what I've relied on mostly over the years has simply been....yup....MY EARS! LOL If I like what I'm hearing...then I don't get too wrapped around the axle worrying about this wattage per channel...or that wattage per channel. Ultimately that's all that really matters isn't it? Liking what you're hearing????? But.....I would like to know more and have a better understanding of the subject......so I'll keep reading....keep watching youtube vids....and listening to guys like you who know more than I about all this stuff........and then crank the volume and rock on with these bad boys rattling my windows and causing my ears to bleed. LOL
They do rate the frequency response lower on the D7 than the D9. That is for the whole speaker itself so it doesn't mean that the woofer itself necessarily measures lower but would have more to do with the size and design of the enclosure.
In spec sheets they rated them as an 8 ohm but yet on the front plate it says 4 - 8 ohms impedance. I don't know for certain about the D-7's but I would bet they would dip down to 4 ohms or even lower depending on the frequencies being played.
I told someone selling a few midrange speakers that he’s wrong! I told him D8’a and D9’s have high power tweeters with 3 screws . He posted the from D1 to D9 all have the some mids. Am I wrong?
Yes and no. First off the obvious is that the D1s and D2s are only a 2 way with no mids and the lower power C5G or CS tweeters. Both models are the same only difference is the finish of the wave guide. From D3 to D9 they all used the same mids (FM-6 or CM-6) although there are 2 different styles of mids used only difference is the frame style. The dual mid models (D7 and D9) used the FM-6 or CM-6 for the mid on the top and for the bottom mid they used the FM-6H or CM-6H. The difference is just top one has closed basket and bottom has an open basket and usually are fixed to an internal enclosure. And yes for the tweeters the D8 and D9 use the CS5 larger magnet and higher power handling tweeter.
If you paid 300 to have 2 d-9 woofers refoamed and reconed and the center caps came out tilted like 30° off. What would you do? Should i deemand the shop fix it, or am I overreacting?
It is frustrating when you pay a professional and end up with results like you mentioned. I'm not sure where you are from, but for me, my cost on 2 15" re-cone kits would be roughly $200CAN. Even if you look at it like that, you paid $50 a woofer to be re-coned which isn't terrible but I would still expect everything to come out as good as it did from factory. If the issue is just the dust cap logo that is turned but still centered on the cone I would just mount them in the cabinet so they are straight and make new hole for the fasteners. If all you did was bring the woofers in without the cabinets it's pretty easy for them to not know which way is straight if they didn't take note of how the originals were. This is why I like to have the entire speaker to work on so I can mount the woofers and then install the dust cap, also to test when completed.
@SavingVegas sadly the shop had the complete speaker set, boxes and all with them during the whole repair, because I specifically asked for them to rebuild the crossovers but it seems like all the did was rebuild the 15's and sprayed some D5 on the crossover plate. Unfortunately, the repair did take longer than the shops estimate, so I was out of town for work and had to send someone in my stead to pick them up (due to the shop demanding I do, despite their original assurances of them storing the speakers for a few weeks being fine) and my mom ended up going for me and she just really doesn't know what to lookout for. I finally managed to get someone on the phone again, and they offered new center caps, but I decided to just clock the woofers so the logo is straight. The shop also shorted half of my woofer screws so there are only 4 in each 15 now. Im just disappointed because I expected a higher caliber of craftsmanship coming from a guy who built HiFi jbl speakers. I think i will just do this sort of work on my own from now on.
I'm sorry to hear that. Unfortunately this happens quite a bit from what I hear. Most shops get to the point where they think people will either not notice or not care and the quicker they can get a job done with little effort the better. I myself do restorations for people but I am not a full time shop and I really take my time and like to pay attention to every detail. With that said I don't take on a lot of work and most of what I am doing is more costly but also above average work. It would probably be difficult for most shops to do what I do and stay in business, to be honest I usually don't end up making a lot on each restoration. It also takes me a lot longer then most shops but it's about the final results and the customer loving the end results.
I have never had them no. They get ok reviews but they only have a 95dB efficiency rating. For a 15 inch 3 way Cerwin Vega thats not very good. Most of their 15 inch speakers have efficiency ratings that are over 100dB. They would not sound as good as others and definitely not on smaller amplifiers.
Upper mid will be either M-6 or FM-6 and the lower mid will be M-6H or FM-6H. Some may marked CM-6 upper and CM-6H lower. Either way top has a sealed basket and lower has open basket with its own internal enclosure.
I scored a pair of CW D7`s from the original owner and will be changing the foam surround because they are dried out and falling apart. What`s the easiest way to know if everything else is working as it should regarding mids and highs?
If tweeter and mids are working you are good there but sometimes I find they sound muddy or just bad in general the crossover would be the next place to look. Not so much for the tweeter but the mids, the mids have electrolytic capacitors in their signal path and they go bad with age. Sometimes you can tell just by looking at them, they will be bulged, leaking and sometimes even the plastic coating on them will melt if they have got too hot. This degrades the sound quality and in most cases causes them to filter too much low frequencies or not enough. Bad or not when I am working on crossovers I remove any electrolytic cap that is in the signal path of a tweeter or mid and replace it with an audio grade polypropylene cap with the same or as close to the same values. Matching the uF as close as possible is important and for voltage the new cap can be rated higher than the original not lower.
@@SavingVegas I ended up replacing the foam surrounds. That's all they needed. They were in excellent condition all around. I purchased them from the original owners who bought them in 1988 and they were in a nice home and well taken care of. I already have nice speakers so I sold them and the person who bought them is very happy with them. Another pair of D7's that will be enjoyed for many more years. Thanks for posting.
I'm glad you found a solution that worked out for you. This is a perfect reason there are many different kinds of speakers out there, our preferences for audio equipment is subjective. I will say I know what you mean by the D-7's sounding muddy. My D-9's were the same way, was one of the reasons I chose to rebuild the crossovers with much better quality parts and I couldn't be happier with the results.
Yes I sure do. D9s are louder, more bass and a better build quality overall. If you look at the sensitivity rating, the D9 is rated at 101dB at 1 Watt/1 meter. The XLS215 is 95.3dB 1 watt/1 meter. Frequency response of the D9 29Hz to 20kHz and the XLS215 38Hz to 20kHz.
That receiver would run either of these speakers just fine. Cerwin Vega is known for their high sensitivity ratings. Sensitivity ratings are measured in decibels and usually measured at 1 watt from 1 meter away. Depending on the model they measure in at anywhere from 94dB up to over 100dB, so they will play louder than most with lower wattage amps. With that said, the more power you have on hand means more headroom and more control of the drivers in the speaker. You would be surprised at how well these speakers sound, even at lower volume levels the bass is very present. As long as you don't overdrive the amplifier by turning it up too loud. This causes clipping and will take out tweeters in a hurry and even midrange drivers sometimes. For this reason power meters, distortion or clip light indicators are nice to have. Unfortunately your receiver does not have any of these so you have to let your ears be the judge. I good rule of thumb is to not set the volume up past 70% ish and you should be safe. I will add that these speakers really come to life with a good quality power amp. But like I said they are still very enjoyable with lower wattage units. I hope this answers your question.
@@SavingVegas thank you for the full info response much appreciated, I’ve found a pair of u123 locally I may go check out this weekend price is right so I’m hoping for a similar outcome. Can’t seem to find as much info on that model any words of wisdom on that model?
I might be selling these when they are done but I am in Saskatchewan Canada, so not really near anybody lol. I guess it depends on where you are located but shipping these big suckers probably isn't cheap.
Had a pair of d-7's back in the 80's thought they were decent till a so called friend blew the one channel out by being ignorant and putting the bass on full while also doing the same with the volume while i stepped out of the room, got a pair of at-15's after that since the store i got them from couldnt get a replacement woofer to replace my one blown d-7woofer with.
I have yet to own any of the xls series Vega's yet. Judging by specs of the largest model in the series, the XLS215, they don't appear to be as efficient as older models. I have also read some reviews that mentioned issues with the cheap construction of the cabinets. If I ever come across a set for a decent price I will definitely buy them tonsee for myself.
I am well aware. If you go to the 12:00 point of the video I talk about the CS5 being the larger magnet version that should be in there. Also at around the 9:35 mark I mention that the smaller magnet version tweeter belongs to the D-1 to the D-7. It would be nice if people would at least pay attention before trying to call me out 🤦♂️
Yup it sure does. I ran into this alot with CV stuff. If you go to cerwinvega.com and look up the D9 in there Legacy models under service and part numbers it will show you that the D9 tweeter is a C-5G. But the schematics I have for the D9 says CS5. The CS5 is the larger higher power handling version and the C5G is the smaller one even though they are marked C5. Just like the midranges that are usually marked M6 or not marked at all but there are actually 2 different part numbers CM6HP and CM6P.
@@SavingVegas i know there is a lot of difrrenses. but you say C5G but you holding up a C5 tweeter. ???? i just pointed out the mistake. but cerwin vega made changes a lot all the time. just in denmark i have seen 4 difrend D5-E if you look up D9 where you live. there is a lot of difrend ones to. and here i only talk about the cabinets. not the drivers.
I see now lol oops. This had me very confused at first. So I went ahead and pulled a bunch of tweeters out of my D series speakers and I see what you are saying. So both are smaller magnets it just appears to be a difference in the plastic. C5 has a smooth gloss finish and C5G is more of a dull black rougher finish. One must have been replaced in the D7s I picked up because one is stamped C5 and the other is the C5G like all my other ones. I never even noticed the C5 tell I watched my video over again. Do you know if there are any differences in specs?
Excellent discussion. Just refoamed my D7s and enjoy them just as much as I did back in college ~40 years ago. You have a great balance between tech detail and pragmatics. Thanks for your videos.
Had them both. The D7S tight perfect bass is the real deal. Power them with right amp and you have the best bass for rock I've ever head. I've had many speakers some costing 10 times the price of these two. But the perfect tight punchy bass of the D7S is what I remeber.
we still got our d9's parents had em since they were new in the 80's had to refoam em years ago still use em for stereo and they still sound good
Hi, I own the Cerwin Vega D15EE bought in 1991, today I would not exchange them for any loudspeaker on the market.
Amazing channel Bro🤙
Thanks and yes the D15EE is one heck of a speaker!
How much do these go for now? These might possibly go well as an extra two with my HPMS? Just ran across this speaker style and this channel?
@jedhatcher252 It really depends on location. In my area in Canada, a set of D-9s in good condition will sell for around $600 to $800CAN, maybe even more if in mint condition.
The D-7s I don't see come up for sale very often. Again, depending on the condition, I would think $400 to $500CAN.
I was given (yes, given) a pair of D7s about 3 years ago and they only needed refoamed around the woofers, all else seemed to be pristine, I didn't even hook them up until refoam was complete. These were to be played along with the Pioneer HPM700s I bought with my Sansui G7700 receiver in Germany 40 years ago. I was absolutely amazed at the response and performance of the D7s, they absolutely blow the HPMs away, the HPMs are excellent speakers but again the D7s put them to shame. I play all four with the D7s enhancing the top end while the HPMs cover the lower frequencies
Two things I'd do on a rebuild/restore is coat the paper cones with some clear acrylic gel coat, you can get either gloss or matte finish. I'd add in a Zobel Network across the midrange in parallel which is a simple LC (Non-Inductive Resistor & Non-Polarized Capacitor) this circuit basically keeps the impedance flat with frequency rise. Simple circuit with good results. Good Video!!!😁👍🏻
Why coat the paper cone theres no reason to.
@@grindfreakmike5754 UV & Moisture Resistance!!! DERP! 🤪
DX-7/DX-9 are the ones you want, they are the improved models over d7/d9
Better matched drivers with less complicated crossover
Higher efficiency =
Better performance
Good example of how to totally restore CV. GREAT TUTORIAL
These speakers where power houses always liked the Vegas for heavy loud sound
They sure are. I don't know if you've watched any of my videos on restoring these D-9s but they turned out great! I have been using them in my shop for over a year now and they've been awesome considering they get beat on pretty hard almost everyday.
I will be pulling them off the big corner shelves they sit on very soon to take some acoustical measurements and possibly upgrading some more of the xover parts to bring them to the next level. I will be making a video on the process sometime in the near future.
Original D9 woofers had exact same texture paper cone as the D7 you show. Recently put fresh ferro fluid into the tweeters (higher power version) as the original fluid was completely dried out. Applied fresh glue to all the inside seams and added some extra dampening inside. Wow they sound as great as they did when new. Great video on these iconic models from the 80's.
They actually had different types of cones right from the factory. Texture is the same yes but colors were slightly different. Some were slightly tinted a blueish color some green and most a darker grey or black color. My guess is the year they were made but I found a lot of minor inconsistencies like that with CV stuff. They basically just used whatever it was they had for parts. Sound wise the specs all the same but different types of builds. Like the midranges on my D7s are an older version usually found in older models like the HED series. My D9s are newer and slightly different but only in the style of baskets. The actual sound specs are the same or close enough. I was going to cover the differences in the midranges in this video but I am going to do another video on these on replacing midrange grills and I decided to cover that in that video instade of this one because the difference in the mids doesn't depend on wether they are D7s or D9s if the mids were different. Being this was just a comparison on the differences of the 2 models it is irrelevant.
@@SavingVegas i have factory schematics for the D9's in PDF format. i can send if interested. also literature for the entire D series in 1984 when i bought my D9s.
You are correct on them using parts available, the 1984 literature midranges look similar to the mid's on your D7's and my D9 mid's match your D9 mid's. Love the videos, thanks for making them.
@@alwillis4255 What information might you have on the D8's? I bought a set new back when the came out but the cabinets didn't make it. I pulled all the parts and drew up a small sketch with dimensions in anticipation of rebuilding.
Looking for any information known since CV never kept any tech specs.
@@1rewd133 Only for D9, nothing on D8
@@alwillis4255 thank you anyway.
It was an obscure model, a D9 with only one mid or D7 with a 15", depending on how you look at it.
Hi Saving Vega I'm A Professional Dj Since 1978 And I Remember When Cerwin 1st Came Out In 1954 I've Always Been A Fan But I Favored Peavey When It came To Djing Hugh House parties In 1980 & Disco B4 That In The 70's I Actually Started Djing In 1978 Up To Present Date In 1982 Was When I Got More Interested All Because It Was Advertised That They Where Louder Speakers With A Low Watt Receiver What They Didn't Say Was That They Where 4 Ohm Speakers So I had To Check These Out At A Place Called (Tech Hi-Fi) In Detroit I Forget The Series Possibly S1 Or Something Like That. But Anyway I Recently Bought A Pair At A Re-Sale Shop For 20 Bucks For The Pair VS-100 They Needed Re-Foaming So I Used That To Talk Them Down To 20 Bucks They Wanted 100.00 Bucks And The Cabinets Are Beautiful & Solid No Rattle Tweeter & Mid Are Fine So Now I'm Interested In Getting The One's With The 15Inch Woofer's And Since Your The Man I was Wondering Where You Could Lead Me Or You May Possibly Have A Pair I Can Get As A Project To Work On ?
Great video, I tend to do the same.. Take in gear I like and dont like & some I keep and some I resell.. Sometimes I make a buck and other times I break even. My big joy is saving the gear and giving it a new lease on life while continuing to hone in my skills and play with more gear.. Whatever I make goes to find more projects or towards a piece of gear I really want.. Keep up the good content, Just picked up a pair of DX-7s that I have to re-foam.
Man i really miss my AT-15s and i had 4 of them.😉😎
Hello I now own a beautiful pair of D7s in great overall condition. Re-foamed about 15yrs ago. Powering them with a Marantz 2275. They sound great but not consistent. My question to you and other on this thread.. should I have the crossovers inspected or updated? The Marantz has been cleaned and inspected a few years ago. Thank you all so much and love this channel 👍
What inconsistencies are you hearing? Usually when a crossover has bad parts it is consistent issue. Do the potentiometers operate properly with no crackling sound when adjusting them? Do the issues change depending on the volume level? If so vibrations could possibly be affecting something, just a thought.
I thought they made the D series with the 18 inch sub because I think I remember seeing them when I bought my d9s
i have a set of pd-9's from 1987 , they do not have the foam surround. a red edge but seems more like a continuation of the speaker material and where can i get a mid replacement? do you update crossovers?
Sorry my friend, I need to ask you one more question. I have been researching the D7 and D9, I just like the idea of a 15" woofer but really need a receiver with a powerful enough amp to handle them. I have a Yamaha 992 putting out 80 watts rms/ channel but back of receiver gives total output of 300 watts. With those #'s would I be better off with the D7's? I'm currently running Pioneer CS-D7001's with 12" woofers @150 watts max each. I had both speakers updated for cross overs, new dust covers and speaker foam. They are in good shape for what they are and sound good but the Cerwin Vega's would be an improvement.
Your hear lots of people always saying that CVs need lots of power, that's actually not the case. The majority of their models have sensitivity ratings in the mid 90dB and some even over 100dB. Sensitivity ratings are found by measuring the SPL from 1 meter away with 1 watt of power. Most speakers today measure high 80s to low or mid 90dB so for this reason CVs are known to be quite sensitive which is not to be confused with efficiency as some models can be quite demanding on some amplifiers.
With that said lots of the bigger models can take lots of power and sound great doing so. If you like listening to you music loud and love cranking on the volume knob that's when it becomes necessary to have an amp with bigger power numbers.
As for your power amp that's rated 80 watts rms that has 300 watts listed on the back of the unit, the 300 watts is it's power consumption not output. To be honest 80 watts is more then enough to run D-7s or D-9s as long as you don't overdrive your amp no damage will be done. If it's loud you want then I would suggest a high current power amp rated around 200 watts @ 8 ohms.
hi I have a pair D-9 speakers and have refoamed the two times in the last five the keeps falling apart is there a better foam I have purchased them from simply speaker please help!
Would you happen to have a pair of really nice shape AT-15s that i coukd make a deal with you on?? Or maybe some 18inch cerwin vega speakers??
Enjoy all your vids......another big CV fan here too. Wondering if you might have any 316R's. I see lots of vids about the D series speakers but virtually nothing on the 316's. Wondering what you might think about them....if you're familiar with them......and how they might compare to D series speakers and others? I searched for these 316's for nearly 30 years after seeing my buddy's in Winnipeg back in the mid '80's. Finally found mine on Kijiji in Belleville Ontario some years back now.......and I love them. The original owner paid $1800.00 for them back in 1982.....I got them from him for $450.00. I feel like I stole them. :-) And the best part is.....they are virtually pristine....flawless.....and sound great. Just refoamed the woofers 2 weeks ago....should now be good for another 20 years. Love to hear your thoughts on these bad boys....if you have any. :-) Keep up the good work and thanks again for your vids.
Ah the Hard Rocker Series. I missed out on a set of 316r's about a year and a half ago. This is one of a few speakers I would over pay for if I had to just to own them. Beautiful sounding midrange and just the build quality and size of the cabinet makes it not just a speaker but a piece of furniture lol. I have some 417r's coming in soon. Second owner speakers that the owner says they just don't sound as good as they did the day he got them. Probably going to get some upgraded caps and inductors for the crossover and clean up the potentiometers and so on. I will most definitely be doing some videos or at least one on that project. Those 316r's are gem for sure and I would never let them go. I'm glad you enjoy the videos and I appreciate the support.
@@SavingVegas If I ever decide to sell these bad boys I'll give you first crack at them. :-) I'd give you a heck of a deal on them knowing they'd be in good hands. :-) All though it's likely that the only way they'll leave my possession is if I "will" them to someone when I'm "done". LOL Seems these are pretty darn rare given all the years I searched for a pair. As for pieces of furniture......these were used as end tables for a while at the ends of the previous owner's couch........which resulted in a purplish color wine glass ring stain on top of one. Thankfully I have a wood restoration product that completely removed that wine stain returning these babies back to pristine condition. :-) I'm now considering the possibility of upgrading my receiver/amp to drive these guys. Just not sure yet what kind of amp....what kind of power I need to get these guys performing at their peak.
I'm a little jealous not going to lie. Hopefully I come across some one day. For amps people always seem to recommend pro amps for the dollar per watt. Giving the sensitivity rating 103dB and 150 watt powered rating I would shoot for hifi power amp pre amp combo that is in your price range. For wattage I usually try to get something that exceeds the speakers rating for rms output power or and amp that has really good dynamic power. You have to take in consideration that nobody sits and listens to a single sinewave, you listen to music which is dynamic. Having big power on tap is a good way to not wreck speakers if you know their limitations. Underpowering speakers is the number one cause of speaker failure. An amp with a 200 watt rating would be a good match. I'm always looking for deals on used amps/pre amps and buying and selling to try different setups out, not all equipment sounds the same. Pro amps are nice but most that I have tried seem to sound a little lifeless but that's just my opinion. So far my favorite amp is my Adcom GFA-555. 200 watts per channel at 8 ohms and 600 watts at 8 ohms mono. Dynamically it will do 350 watts per channel before clipping.
@@SavingVegas Unfortunately I just don't know enough about all the technicalities of this stuff........appears I've got lots of reading and head scratching and learning to do. Reading through all the specs of various equipment can be rather confusing sometime. I'm using these 316's as my front speakers of my home theatre system....connected to a denon avr s750h.....in a 5.0 configuration I guess. I'm not using a subwoofer since I get so much base out of these speakers. The specs for it that I've seen so far are conflicting.....and confusing.....I've seen 165 watts per channel....then 75 watts per channel...then 85 watts per channel......then 110 watts per channel somewhere.......so what exactly is it???? Do I have enough power? Do I need more power to get optimal performance out of these speakers? Or am I good with what I've got? Not entirely sure. But not really being a hard core "audiophile" I'm not likely to start getting into the pre-amp and power amp business any time soon I don't think. Not being a sound engineer by any stretch of the imagination...it's sometimes difficult to understand all the ins and outs of this stuff.....for me anyway. :-)
Rather than getting too deeply into all the technicalities and specs....what I've relied on mostly over the years has simply been....yup....MY EARS! LOL If I like what I'm hearing...then I don't get too wrapped around the axle worrying about this wattage per channel...or that wattage per channel. Ultimately that's all that really matters isn't it? Liking what you're hearing????? But.....I would like to know more and have a better understanding of the subject......so I'll keep reading....keep watching youtube vids....and listening to guys like you who know more than I about all this stuff........and then crank the volume and rock on with these bad boys rattling my windows and causing my ears to bleed. LOL
nice channel!!❤ i know EVERYTHING about cerwin vega and thier speakers, just let me know what you need to know/figure out!!
I just read that the D7 woofer will pick up a lower frequency than the D9, which doesn't make sense to me. Your thoughts?
They do rate the frequency response lower on the D7 than the D9. That is for the whole speaker itself so it doesn't mean that the woofer itself necessarily measures lower but would have more to do with the size and design of the enclosure.
So...where do I find the follow up video on these?
On the D9s?
help please. are D7s a 8 ohm speaker? or considered a 6 ohm?
In spec sheets they rated them as an 8 ohm but yet on the front plate it says 4 - 8 ohms impedance. I don't know for certain about the D-7's but I would bet they would dip down to 4 ohms or even lower depending on the frequencies being played.
Have you heard of the S2 ? what can you tell me about them
just found your channel....subscribed :)
Right on I hope you enjoy the vids, many more to come!
I told someone selling a few midrange speakers that he’s wrong! I told him D8’a and D9’s have high power tweeters with 3 screws . He posted the from D1 to D9 all have the some mids. Am I wrong?
Yes and no. First off the obvious is that the D1s and D2s are only a 2 way with no mids and the lower power C5G or CS tweeters. Both models are the same only difference is the finish of the wave guide. From D3 to D9 they all used the same mids (FM-6 or CM-6) although there are 2 different styles of mids used only difference is the frame style. The dual mid models (D7 and D9) used the FM-6 or CM-6 for the mid on the top and for the bottom mid they used the FM-6H or CM-6H. The difference is just top one has closed basket and bottom has an open basket and usually are fixed to an internal enclosure. And yes for the tweeters the D8 and D9 use the CS5 larger magnet and higher power handling tweeter.
Very nice! Keep up the good work!
I really like the D7 they look bad ass
If you paid 300 to have 2 d-9 woofers refoamed and reconed and the center caps came out tilted like 30° off. What would you do? Should i deemand the shop fix it, or am I overreacting?
It is frustrating when you pay a professional and end up with results like you mentioned. I'm not sure where you are from, but for me, my cost on 2 15" re-cone kits would be roughly $200CAN. Even if you look at it like that, you paid $50 a woofer to be re-coned which isn't terrible but I would still expect everything to come out as good as it did from factory.
If the issue is just the dust cap logo that is turned but still centered on the cone I would just mount them in the cabinet so they are straight and make new hole for the fasteners.
If all you did was bring the woofers in without the cabinets it's pretty easy for them to not know which way is straight if they didn't take note of how the originals were. This is why I like to have the entire speaker to work on so I can mount the woofers and then install the dust cap, also to test when completed.
@SavingVegas sadly the shop had the complete speaker set, boxes and all with them during the whole repair, because I specifically asked for them to rebuild the crossovers but it seems like all the did was rebuild the 15's and sprayed some D5 on the crossover plate. Unfortunately, the repair did take longer than the shops estimate, so I was out of town for work and had to send someone in my stead to pick them up (due to the shop demanding I do, despite their original assurances of them storing the speakers for a few weeks being fine) and my mom ended up going for me and she just really doesn't know what to lookout for.
I finally managed to get someone on the phone again, and they offered new center caps, but I decided to just clock the woofers so the logo is straight. The shop also shorted half of my woofer screws so there are only 4 in each 15 now. Im just disappointed because I expected a higher caliber of craftsmanship coming from a guy who built HiFi jbl speakers. I think i will just do this sort of work on my own from now on.
I'm sorry to hear that. Unfortunately this happens quite a bit from what I hear. Most shops get to the point where they think people will either not notice or not care and the quicker they can get a job done with little effort the better.
I myself do restorations for people but I am not a full time shop and I really take my time and like to pay attention to every detail. With that said I don't take on a lot of work and most of what I am doing is more costly but also above average work. It would probably be difficult for most shops to do what I do and stay in business, to be honest I usually don't end up making a lot on each restoration. It also takes me a lot longer then most shops but it's about the final results and the customer loving the end results.
Never heard of "Foster" but I've heard of "Fostex"!!!
Great video as always :). Did you ever had the AL-1000?
I have never had them no. They get ok reviews but they only have a 95dB efficiency rating. For a 15 inch 3 way Cerwin Vega thats not very good. Most of their 15 inch speakers have efficiency ratings that are over 100dB. They would not sound as good as others and definitely not on smaller amplifiers.
The D9 tweeter have 3 screws. High power
Can you please help me. I wanna make sure my D9’s are all correct. What model numbers are on the mids?
Upper mid will be either M-6 or FM-6 and the lower mid will be M-6H or FM-6H. Some may marked CM-6 upper and CM-6H lower. Either way top has a sealed basket and lower has open basket with its own internal enclosure.
I scored a pair of CW D7`s from the original owner and will be changing the foam surround because they are dried out and falling apart. What`s the easiest way to know if everything else is working as it should regarding mids and highs?
If tweeter and mids are working you are good there but sometimes I find they sound muddy or just bad in general the crossover would be the next place to look. Not so much for the tweeter but the mids, the mids have electrolytic capacitors in their signal path and they go bad with age. Sometimes you can tell just by looking at them, they will be bulged, leaking and sometimes even the plastic coating on them will melt if they have got too hot. This degrades the sound quality and in most cases causes them to filter too much low frequencies or not enough. Bad or not when I am working on crossovers I remove any electrolytic cap that is in the signal path of a tweeter or mid and replace it with an audio grade polypropylene cap with the same or as close to the same values. Matching the uF as close as possible is important and for voltage the new cap can be rated higher than the original not lower.
@@SavingVegas I ended up replacing the foam surrounds. That's all they needed. They were in excellent condition all around. I purchased them from the original owners who bought them in 1988 and they were in a nice home and well taken care of. I already have nice speakers so I sold them and the person who bought them is very happy with them. Another pair of D7's that will be enjoyed for many more years. Thanks for posting.
I'm glad you found a solution that worked out for you. This is a perfect reason there are many different kinds of speakers out there, our preferences for audio equipment is subjective. I will say I know what you mean by the D-7's sounding muddy. My D-9's were the same way, was one of the reasons I chose to rebuild the crossovers with much better quality parts and I couldn't be happier with the results.
Anyone know where to get T3 tweeters for vs150? Or a substitute for one?
Cual es el modelo del fusible
I love my D7s Good video
These ones do not sound as they should. I am hoping for a big improvement after I re cap the crossovers and re cone the woofers.
Do you think the D9's sounds better than the XLS15 ?
Yes I sure do. D9s are louder, more bass and a better build quality overall. If you look at the sensitivity rating, the D9 is rated at 101dB at 1 Watt/1 meter. The XLS215 is 95.3dB 1 watt/1 meter. Frequency response of the D9 29Hz to 20kHz and the XLS215 38Hz to 20kHz.
@@SavingVegas my next pair of speakers too
This is a newb question but will these thump w my sx750?
That receiver would run either of these speakers just fine. Cerwin Vega is known for their high sensitivity ratings. Sensitivity ratings are measured in decibels and usually measured at 1 watt from 1 meter away. Depending on the model they measure in at anywhere from 94dB up to over 100dB, so they will play louder than most with lower wattage amps.
With that said, the more power you have on hand means more headroom and more control of the drivers in the speaker. You would be surprised at how well these speakers sound, even at lower volume levels the bass is very present. As long as you don't overdrive the amplifier by turning it up too loud. This causes clipping and will take out tweeters in a hurry and even midrange drivers sometimes. For this reason power meters, distortion or clip light indicators are nice to have. Unfortunately your receiver does not have any of these so you have to let your ears be the judge. I good rule of thumb is to not set the volume up past 70% ish and you should be safe.
I will add that these speakers really come to life with a good quality power amp. But like I said they are still very enjoyable with lower wattage units. I hope this answers your question.
@@SavingVegas thank you for the full info response much appreciated, I’ve found a pair of u123 locally I may go check out this weekend price is right so I’m hoping for a similar outcome. Can’t seem to find as much info on that model any words of wisdom on that model?
I have had a set of those before and I was impressed with them. They will work well with lower power amplifiers.
@@SavingVegas thanks they sounded great at the sellers house hope they sound equally as good at mine
I would like to buy some D 9s
Any for sale ?
Thanks
I might be selling these when they are done but I am in Saskatchewan Canada, so not really near anybody lol. I guess it depends on where you are located but shipping these big suckers probably isn't cheap.
I have a pair of D9 and 380SE that have been in storage for 20years. D9 need reconing In Los Angeles, Ventura County area.
Why?
Had a pair of d-7's back in the 80's thought they were decent till a so called friend blew the one channel out by being ignorant and putting the bass on full while also doing the same with the volume while i stepped out of the room, got a pair of at-15's after that since the store i got them from couldnt get a replacement woofer to replace my one blown d-7woofer with.
What is your opinion of the xls series of cerwin vega? Thanks in advance
I have yet to own any of the xls series Vega's yet. Judging by specs of the largest model in the series, the XLS215, they don't appear to be as efficient as older models. I have also read some reviews that mentioned issues with the cheap construction of the cabinets. If I ever come across a set for a decent price I will definitely buy them tonsee for myself.
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No the tweeters (horns ) are not the same !!! O e has 2 screws and tbe D8 and D9 take a high power horn with 3 screws
I am well aware. If you go to the 12:00 point of the video I talk about the CS5 being the larger magnet version that should be in there. Also at around the 9:35 mark I mention that the smaller magnet version tweeter belongs to the D-1 to the D-7. It would be nice if people would at least pay attention before trying to call me out 🤦♂️
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09:28 C5G???? its say C 5
Yup it sure does. I ran into this alot with CV stuff. If you go to cerwinvega.com and look up the D9 in there Legacy models under service and part numbers it will show you that the D9 tweeter is a C-5G. But the schematics I have for the D9 says CS5. The CS5 is the larger higher power handling version and the C5G is the smaller one even though they are marked C5. Just like the midranges that are usually marked M6 or not marked at all but there are actually 2 different part numbers CM6HP and CM6P.
@@SavingVegas i know there is a lot of difrrenses. but you say C5G but you holding up a C5 tweeter. ???? i just pointed out the mistake. but cerwin vega made changes a lot all the time. just in denmark i have seen 4 difrend D5-E if you look up D9 where you live. there is a lot of difrend ones to. and here i only talk about the cabinets. not the drivers.
I say C5G because thats what it is.
@@SavingVegas the C5G has the C5G stamped on the magnet. the tweeter you have in your hand is C5. difrrend model number :) i have both tweeters.
I see now lol oops. This had me very confused at first. So I went ahead and pulled a bunch of tweeters out of my D series speakers and I see what you are saying. So both are smaller magnets it just appears to be a difference in the plastic. C5 has a smooth gloss finish and C5G is more of a dull black rougher finish. One must have been replaced in the D7s I picked up because one is stamped C5 and the other is the C5G like all my other ones. I never even noticed the C5 tell I watched my video over again. Do you know if there are any differences in specs?
D7 has better misbass efficiency