Unboxing a Victorian Lady's Riding Habit 🤩 || Antique Clothing Haul...but make it Equestrian
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.พ. 2021
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It has been a minute since I've done an unboxing video on this channel (this is what happens when you start aggressively acquiring pieces and you don't have enough time to unbox them all on camera...), but I felt that this piece deserved a proper unboxing. Not only is this a complete riding habit, but it has amazing provenance both for the wearer (Josephine Pomeroy-Herrick) as well as the maker (Burgess Ladies Tailor and Habit Maker). I don't have anything else close to this in my collection. The tailoring is outstanding. The condition is incredible - some of the thread is dry rotted, but the fabric is sound.
Riding habits are a fascinating example of fuzzy gender barriers in historic dress. Sporting clothes have always had a masculine appearance to them, giving an "acceptable" way for women to break out of socially expected feminine styles and dress during their time. The masculinity of the habit carries over to the maker, with riding habits being made by tailors - which was (and is) a male-dominated trade.
This more masculine English aesthetic in sporting clothes began in the last quarter of the 18th century, where there was an Anglo-mania in France for English sporting clothing. Known for wools and tailoring, the English have always been the leader in the well-made, well-tailored sporting dress. It is clear that this trend has continued for almost three hundred years, through Victorian and Edwardian riding habits - with their soutache, braid, and padding, up through the mid-20th century to today. The sartorial traditions in the modern horse-back riding have a clear trail to their origins (pun intended.)
This habit would have been worn for side-saddle, which was the most common way for women to ride in the 19th century (or maybe the most socially acceptable..case you know they also rode astride too...). The patterning of the skirt is a clear indicator of the use of this garment and shows how complicated these garments could actually be. I know a little bit about riding side-saddle, and I am excited to see that it is starting to come back in popularity in the US (a few years ago, it was all but impossible to find someone with a saddle, a horse, and in driving distance from my mother and I.)
A couple of other notes on the construction - the fabric that is lining the seat of the riding pants is a fabric chamois- and it did have a fiber backing to it to create a cushioned seat in the pants, to help protect the legs and keep the rider comfortable. At the end of the 1880s and into the early 1900s we see a switch over towards riding breeches underneath the skirts for women, so the patterning books I have cited down below include both options.
I hope you all enjoy this unboxing. :)
References:
1889 Map of New Burlington Street: www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/online...
The Cutter’s Practical Guide to the cutting of ladies’ garments, William D.F. Vincent, 1892, archive.org archive.org/details/cutterspr...
Handbook on dress and cloak cutting, Charles Hecklinger, 1884, archive.org archive.org/details/handbooko...
New Superlative system of cutting ladies’ garments, based upon a scientific sure and simple method giving the correct proportions for each type of form of every size with variations [...], Charles Stone, 1901, archive.org archive.org/details/newsuperl...
Portrait of Theodore Pomeroy, c. 1850, George L. Clough, US House of Representatives, history.house.gov/Collection/...
No. 1 New Burlington Street: patrickbaty.co.uk/2013/09/23/1...
Historic England, 1 and 2 New Burlington Street: historicengland.org.uk/listin...
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I wonder if there was a coat factory on New Burlington St?
LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL
🤣🤣🤣
Omfg lmao
Underrated comment
Sharing a historic riding habit is cool enough but to be able to share about who owned it and the tailor is a real treat that rounds out the experience. Nice one!
thank you! I was so happy to be able to tell a story with this piece!
Agreed. It’s just a whole nother level of cool.
I would imagine having to unbutton part of the skirt to access the pocket would have been more of a feature than a bug given the purpose of the garment. So if you go riding your coin purse and/or keys wouldn’t go flying out of your pocket somewhere in the countryside.
that's what i was thinking too! there are those buttons on the back to help keep stuff secure so it wouldn't be too much of a task to get to.
Tiny historical snippet re "New Burlington St, W" - rather than being like the designations on long US streets, that "W" for West is a super early postcode (zip code). Postal districts were added to London addresses in 1857 and 1858. The modern postcode for that address is W1S 3BE, retaining that W postal district.
High pitched excited Abby (and Nicole) is just the most uplifting content
made me imagine her as a little mouse forgaging in autumn leaves talking to itself while looking for food
Can you imagine the good that this woman could do in the world today with the resources that woman have available now? She was a kick ass woman - especially in the area she grew up in. I’m familiar with that area of NY, intimately, because my mother grew up 40 miles from Auburn, NY and it’s nothing but a mining area with very little to do in regards to society.
As an equestrian I am so here for this!
(Hold my horse while I make one myself!!!)
Pants: Predecessor to full seat breeches? I wonder if the reason behind the pocket location was intentional so things in the pocket wouldn't fly out while riding.
I agree on all of this!
"They tailored the :: squeaky :: out of this".
Yes, they sure did. The seaming on the bodice(?) at 15:30 is amazing.
It's wild that the house is still there!
That lining is straight 🔥, so many Victorian pieces either don't have lining or have really poorly cared for lining. That's a really nice piece!
I wonder if any of our everyday clothes will even make it to the next 10 years, not even 100. This is gorgeous!
Learning more about the women who wore the clothing is just awesome! I am grateful that you’re sharing your knowledge and excitement!! Thank you!
Me shouting at the screen when it is being unboxed: "Breathe! Abbey Breathe!"
Oh, WOW!! That’s just so stinking cool!! Nicole’s squee was too cute. The history behind it is wonderful...and to know the building where it was made is still standing? So special! She’s simple, yes, but she’s so elegant with those clean lines. What a treasure you have, there. Thank you so much for sharing her.
So...how goes your Tarot adventure? I hope you’re finding it interesting and enlightening, or at least entertaining! I don’t claim to be an expert, by any means, but if you have any questions, I’m happy to share my experience, if you like. I’m quite interested in Astrology, do you have any book recommendations for beginners? Just a general nudge in the right direction would be most welcome, if you have a moment. If not, I completely understand. You’re a very busy person! 🙂 Wishing you and yours the best, and have a beautiful two weeks!!
Tarot is kinda ... not on hold...just...comes in waves...lol but as for astrology - I think Chani Nicholas's book - You Were Born for This is *amazing*, and I do have a podcast/youtube channel - The Astrology Podcast - Chris does fantastic work and really pushes to bring *quality* astrology content to the masses. So when you first start listening it's a bit overwhelming, but the more you listen, the more you understand. I also 10/10 recommend the Chani App. It's amazing for getting to understand your chart better. :)
I understand. Tarot can be a lot of just rote memorization, and ain’t nobody got time for that! Keziah Gibbons has a lovely audio course on Insight Timer (best Meditation + app on the market, imho) that I recommend, if you’re interested.Thank you so so much for your recommendations!!! I am on it like Blue Bonnet. I’ve always been kinda daunted by the sheer amount of information out there and never knew where to start. Give those fur babies some scritches for me!!
I haven’t slept in 24 hours. I came out to my family as bisexual. Either they don’t believe me or they feel bad for my fiancé. Yay happy coming out birthday to me. It’s a beautiful day to bisexual and sleep deprived.🌈😴 these videos help me so much❤️❤️
oof, I'm sending warm hugs your way. sounds like you need some. stay strong, they'll come around
@@matildas3177 Thank you. I just wanted to give an update I’m going back home today.When people talk this much about their personal life on the Internet it’s because they need help and I’m really grateful to the people who have commented back and responded to me. Because when people don’t listen to you things happen.
Good luck!! My coming-out birthday is almost two years ago now. Here are some virtual hugs if you need them: 🤗🤗
No matter who you love, if you’re bisexual your bisexual ❤️
I am a bisexual woman married to a man for 18 years. We point out the hotties to each other, lol!
Congrats on being yourself, and very brave. Hugs.
I would DIE if you patterned this....... 1890's riding habits have always been my favorite of all the styles in dress history
maybe it's just me but sometimes on the close-up shots I lose track a bit of what seam/hem part of the garment you're talking about & I wish you would point to it or explain things a little clearer for peeps with very little tailoring/dress history knowledge
But these videos are some of my favourite content on YT right now!! they're so interesting, I don't think I would ever get the chance to look so closely at antique clothes if I hadn't found this channel, so I'm really glad I did
also made me laugh so much when you got to the busted crotch of the pants and were like 'relateable' cause I was thinking exactly the same 😂
Re: Postscript
I would think she’d have her own key by now. LOLOL
I was waiting the whole video for Abby to get Nicole lmao 😂 I was not disappointed
That drawn out "Yesss" when you asked Nichole if she wanted to come see it! I really hope that one of you makes it!
And the little excited sqeaks 🧡
My ADHD: "stop watching the God damn video with all the audio glitches, I cant take it"
The abby fan inside me: oh shut it and deal with it, were watching the whole thing, you have no choice 🤣
PANTS?! Frickin' *scandalous.
*awesome
What a treat! I too have a deep fondness for riding habits, I remember much dismay as a very young girl learning they were no longer worn ie I would never get to wear one much less have one.
Also remember having a hard time imagining how one rode side-saddle. Eventually in my late 30s I had the opportunity. Having just really learned how to ride (versus sit on a horse when it moved) and sitting the trot still barely natural) I was a wee bit timid.
That was before I first faced how on Earth to mount!? Somehow my instructor more confident than I assured me simply pretend you're wearing a long skirt. Shocking how easy it was not only to mount but actually jump fences 😆 even replacing leg aids with whip was a breeze.
Needless to say I have yearned ever since for a riding habit every bit as much as I had as a child after that.
So this un-boxing a particular joy for me and I am so glad for you too. 😋
Either my computer is on its last leg, or Abbys mic is. It sounds almost as if she censors her self every now and then.
It's not just you. It does it on my phone as well so it's definitely on her end.
Same here, came to the comments to see if it was just me or if somebody else was having the same issue.
Same. I think someone messed up during editing but glad to hear it's not my phone. 🤣
@@Jocrooms I think it's a bad connection. It gets worse when she moves around.
So glad its not just me who's hearing this!
That is so very amazing. The style of the pants hasn’t really changed over time which is really surprising. It’s been taken care of which is amazing but there’s a tiny part of me that wishes it wasn’t. Just so that we could see inside. The fact that you have the history of the owner and found out about the maker makes it just that much more amazing!
I love Riding Habits. I'm so glad that you made that wonderful video about the dress of my name sake, it was fantastic to watch^^
I think a riding habit with trousers has become my first Dream Project! I have a bad IT band & a loose gender identity, so ankle/floor-length skirts have always been unappealing... but the tailoring on this lady. THE TAILORING!
I think the construction of the skirt might be the most fascinating garment I’ve seen! I hope someone in the costube community takes on trying to recreate it or something, as I have little to none sewing ability (trying to improve little by little though!)
P.s. I LOVE the white flower shaped buttons on your dress!💕
I appreciate the extra detail (and work) that went into showing the broader history behind the garment. I liked how you showed a bit of the paths you have to go down to get the information so people understand it's not as simple as a quick google. Great addition to these garment videos!
This video has some wonderful out of context moments.
The research into the tailor and where the clothing came from was fascinating. Thanks for sharing with us.
Wow! I love looking at historical clothing and thinking about who wore it and about it’s history. This garment really brings that history into the light and it makes my heart happy!
I have always wanted a 1890's riding habit with the corset. thanks so much for sharing.
Abby, you're not just a great historian. You also have an instinct for presenting facts visually so you keep the audience engaged. A lot of documentary film makers would give an arm and a leg to have that talent.
So beautifully tailored! I will never be able to visit a public rest room now without dreaming about victorian riding habits!
I was also a equestrian and I loved wearing my grand parents breeches from the 20's/30's. They were more comfortable than the tight modern breeches. The wool were better looking but way to warm and if you needed the bathroom you better plan ahead. I wore cotton marine breeches from ww2 so comfy.
I always wanted to learn side saddle. Mom & Dad had safety concerns with the jumping. Also the saddle was EXPENSIVE!
Fascinating - LOVE that you found the current No 1 is still there - sweet
Aww! Cute pictures of mini Abby with horses! Thank you for sharing this amazing garment!
Horses + Victorian clothing = (Julie Andrews singing) These are a few of my favorite things!
I love Abby reacting to vintage garments, the enthusiasm and love she shows is just so wholesome.
15 and a half minutes before a "sweet jingle jangles!" I'm impressed!
It is amazing to have you go through the construction, these garments are not just beautiful to look at but beautifully constructed as well. Thank you for sharing.
Anyone else get super excited when we get an Abby video and we not only get gorgeous clothes but we get to learn something new.
I grew up near Auburn NY and I had a guidance counselor named Ms. Pomeroy.
Ooh and Burgess Clothing! You can still see big black wooden signs with Burgess Clothing in white block letters all around Auburn on the sides of buildings, houses, barns
I got excited when I saw the offset seams (because clothes today dont have them) I learned they are called 'inlays' so the garment can be taken out. I learned this back in 1996 though when tailoring was a part of my fashion design course, could be called something else by now. I love old school tailoring and can totally relate to Abbys fangirling!
Now I want to see her wear this in public.
Seeing you two so excited about this is all the serotonin
She is in such good condition! I love that she's found such a good home now, she'll be loved and cared for like she deserves
As a lifelong Horse Girl and a recent enthusiast of historic fashion (thanks to channels like yours), I ADORE THIS.
Abby fan-girling is giving me the serotonin I definitely needed! Thank you for your content!!
There's so many things I love about your videos, but one of the things that bring me so much joy is all of your historical research, and a little story about Burgesses company and its location just warmed my heart. I just moved to Maine and a lot of the historical buildings still have their old names on the top with their current occupants underneath them so it's really neat to see that history surviving
I will never get tired of watching Abby geek out over vintage/historical clothes. Loved the background of this riding habit. Honestly, I'd never thought about the mechanics of keeping your skirt down while riding side saddle. Lovely video Abby, thank you.
oh my gosh!!!! Abby!!!! the part about the history of the building is SO AMAZING
::swoons:: I was not prepared but my heart is a flutter from this dazzling find.😳🤯😲🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰 Abby is out here discovering and sharing magical past fashion goodness and giving us wonderful history lesson of interesting persons. She was amazing!!!😍Need me one of these awesome riding habits.
I so enjoy your unboxings. Your excitement translates so very well. I get excited just watching you. Thank you so much for sharing!
This was awesome - connecting the garment to the women and to their legacies. 🙌
Riding sidesaddle is fantastically fun to do! I especially enjoy how people riding toward me in the ring startle as they come close enough to notice that I'm aside! And the older man on the fence who warned me how dangerous it is and how his grandma got hurt. If you want a laugh, read horse show rules for what you are still required to wear under your habit and what exactly what you need to have in your sandwich case. The judge is allowed to check your clothing and wine if she wants 😂
Okay, I'm from Texas, and have only done a tiny teeny bit of riding, but.. I'm like "padded pants? Y'all do padding on your pants?" And pants outside your boots?
I learned "Western style" riding. Our pants were tucked inside the boots. I used a bit of elastic on the inside of my jeans, to keep them under my heel, as my pant leg kept riding up. One hand only on the reins, and DO NOT loop the reins around your hand/ fingers / thumb, because if a snake spooks your horse, you can't disengage from the reins quickly, if needed.
And in class I got to ride an NDN style of horse. They have a sort of roundy horse body, with fatty backs. I discovered that I LOVED riding bareback on such a horse. It was easier than riding saddle. (Our saddles were rented, and were made for the average to tall person. I'm short, so getting on the horse was not fun, and it was hard to keep my feet in the stirrups.)
If I ever get the opportunity again, I am definitely riding. Horses are a bit expensive though.
Amazing! And thank you for the history of both the maker and the owner; it adds a really nice touch and rounds out the story of a garment when one is able to do so. Also, Nicole's reactions at the end were priceless!
If you watch Flambards episode 1 you can see how a habit fits over a side saddle. While walking you keep the skirt buttoned up. In the saddle you unbutton the skirt so you can drape it over your legs.
OMG! I love the history you put here. That's the kind of detail I love...it will also help me in adding real information to a book I am writing.
Okay, I'm a few months late to the parade, but as an equestrian, a former saddle seat rider, and a Pomeroy (Saint Mary-of-the-Woods Alumna) I MUST make a riding habit! I'd guess this would make incredibly warm riding gear this winter!
You really excelled in explaining the details of the pieces. The added history of Josephine, her family and learning more about you is greatly appreciated. Thank you for the way you brought the garment to life. Sending well wishes to everyone xo
love this so much ❤️❤️ the tailoring is exquisite & for it to have lasted this long in such good condition is incredible. as a horsey girl this makes me so happy!!
Love your enthusiasm and passion for these clothes. Love watching your videos they always make me smile 💛💛
The only thing we’re missing now is for you to recreate it and show us in real life how riding would look like back then. Please 😍
I bought a sidesaddle at my maternal grandfather's estate sale - it was the western style with corn and peaches down the fender - naturally died - I donated it to a Salisbury Township ( Lancaster County Pa ) Historical Society 2 years ago - it was a great grandmother's wedding present - there was a saddle for her husband also
The history of the shop that made this added to the extremely well made suit omg I literally had tears in my eyes wondering if this is the only thing left of that amazing shop besides the building
This video was so amazing! I loved the look at the riding habit and the history of the place where it was made!
YOU MADE ME CRY & GAVE me COLD CHILLS with your eloquent tale of josephine's day out on regent street
Fantastic! How lovely to know the full history of the garment! 🐎💕
This was very cool. How you get your hands on these items is just amazing. Thank you for sharing and do all this research!
This!!! This was a great video and needs to become a series!! It was so cool hearing about the person who wore it but where it came from as well. I hope you try and do more like this because I really liked it!
Best. Unboxing. Video. Ever. So much history. So much passion. So much amazingness!!!!!
I’m learning to ride now and eeeeep this is so exciting!! I’ve been planning to recreate a riding habit for ages
Hooray! I hope you're enjoying the process! Learning how to ride is such a great skill and a wonderful experience!
There is a horse pattern company called Suitability that has a side saddle habit.
@@MrsFitzDarcy1 My sidesaddle apron is from the Suitability pattern. It’s a crazy pattern because of the zillions of darts for the knee, but it looks great completed.
I had been trawling for one of your unboxing videos as a pick me up, then I saw the notification! Spoils!! Fashion & a history lesson.
What an incredible acquisition! I truly enjoyed the added history of the owner and the establishment where it was made.
I love love these episodes! I can’t wait to see more!
Those tailored garments are very intimidating, they were built more like a house than a piece of clothing I would love to make a jacket but I think it's beyond me
Weird to think that maybe one day (in a hundred years or so) people will be looking at our clothes with this much excitement. 😂
The little band of red white detailing is to die for...so perfectly proportioned and sophisticated. Anything more and it would verge on overdone or tacky. And the shaping of the trousers is amazeballs...I bet she looked stunning in them and I imagine her walking with a strut knowing that under the slightly odd shaped skirt she was rocking amazing trousers. Back in the 80s there was a stirrup pant craze...they did not look as good.
So cool. Having ridden English saddle, this is fascinating!!
Wow amazing! Those seam lines all meeting in the back of the jacket are OCD heaven! I call her invention "a** gaskets" 🤣🤣🤣
Wow! Your enthusiasm is ssoooo contagious! Thank you for sharing
I thoroughly enjoy the unboxing of the riding habit! She must have had an interview life with many adventures. I was struck that house was still there. If it were here it would have been torn down after 50 years to make room for an apartment complex.
I loved the investigation into #1 new Burling Street a lovely little love story to discovery and history 💕
E. Butterick & CO.!!! that street map!!!
I rode side saddle once. Those women have serious skills!!! Folks it is NOT easy. And jumping in one 😳, wow!!! Amazing women. However, I did not consider the fashion while I was doing my very best to stay on the horse. I'm kinda of in love with the riding habits. Thanks for the introduction to this piece of history ❤️
Can always tell when you are impressed with a dress. "You want to come see it?"...and Nicole comes over.
I can barely darn a sock, but get all geeked out when I watch any of the historical clothing/fashion/costume/recreation channels.
Thank you
This is fascinating. I had a similar experience with the vintage skiwear trousers of my parents which I made over and used when I worked in the ski industry.
That history moment was *chefs kiss* just right and very much made me invested
in the garment and all the work!
I'm not ashamed to say I gave an excited "oh!" When I saw this video on my notifications. And I was not disappointed!
That habit sure is beautiful. I am so glad it came into your collection!
I forgot it was Sunday and then I saw your video. Sundays are going to be awesome this year!
I just love your unboxing videos ❤️❤️❤️
I come for the historical info.
I stay to hear Abby say things like "They tailored the f* out of this."
I love your research, it's a gift and a delight to listen to the outcome.
What a FANTASTIC piece to add to your collection, the tailoring is amazing! Probably why they're so intimidating to make. Congratulations on this one-of-a-kind find and the delightfully fun and informative video.
Sidebar: I'm a horse-person too and would love to ride aside. I think my little reined cow horse mare would tolerate learning (my jumper def. would not!) but, alas, no trainers nearby!
Another cool video on antique garments. Thanks Abby.
Like Christmas all over again for Abby.
Congratulations! 🌻thank you sharing your beautiful collection and knowledge.