I've built all kind of instruments over the years. Built my first metal bodied National style ukes back in the 80's--didn't know that they had ever really existed before, but spun my own cones and everything. Anyway, your fearless style of building and willingness to take problems in stride and deal with them is extremely inspiring! If I had been as fearless as you back when I was doing metal bodied instruments, I'm sure I would have done better. Or maybe not--at any rate, I like your style.
6:32 Hey, you've got the same kind of forehead bumps I do. The dermatologist wouldn't touch them, said it would just make them spread. Sun damage from 6 years treeplanting. I grind them down with my dremel every couple of years. No spreading. "I am insufferably proud of that" - that is gold, gonna steal that one. I like how the bead rolling gives you that ledge, which lends itself to all kinds of ornation.
I curved my metal arch top on the garage floor and putting all my weight on a furniture dolly and moving the caster wheel back and forward and side ways. Curved in pretty good. Lol
You might try staring the bead rolling from the centerline working both sides a section at a time . The idea being to create symmetrical stresses and hopefully any distortion is also symetrical but in a neutral axis.
The best way to form a curve like that in steel sheet is to use an 'English Wheel', refer to Ron Covell or Wray Schelin to see how. The English Wheel method is WAY faster than trying to press a curve into the sheet.
Great vwork, Great outcome! You sure are on a steep learning curve there buddy, but I love what you're doing. I make amps and have seriously thought about making metal cabinets for them because i make some really radical wooden ones, but after watching this I might just send you thr drawings and let you do it.
Nice, I made a wood cabinet for my 5 watt amp that I gig with. Turned out good but now you have me wondering what a metal cabinet would sound like... hmmmmm
maybe two rounds on the bead roller will even out the initial wonkiness - and then afterwards dish it with a form that only accepts the raised surface from the roll.
The raised corners is too much metal in those areas, you need to shrink them slightly. You can buy a cheap stretcher shrinker. A worthwhile investment for the shop
Thanks, I've been watching make it kustom a lot since I started this build. He makes the english wheel and hammer forming look easy but I can tell it's not. I do want to try an english wheel though.
This guitar was 20 gauge mild steel. 20 gauge produces about a 9.5 pound guitar. I have switched to 22 gauge mild steel which brings the weight down to just over 8.5 pounds. Thank you.
That's a good question and one worth answering. It's less than 1/16 of an inch. My tabs that bend over are larger than needed so I wasn't worried about the difference. I should be able to get a specific number in the next few days as I'm about to bead roll another back, although I bought new dies that are different but it will still give us a good idea of the shrinkage.
i just watched you build a steel resonator .....this is one of mine th-cam.com/video/YEG1jrv8zhk/w-d-xo.html........i made a set of steel dies for folding the edges of the top back and sound well ...and a mould for bending the covers too ....I have also discovered a couple new ideas.the first since these were invented .....all my tools are operated with bolts ....I have been negotiating with Rickard banjos to make them for me but that is not working out ....the new idas need explaining but they do make a huge difference to resonators ........my guitar moulds do not use english wheel or bead roller . ....if you are interested we can talk oh i made 5 bodies in 5 hrs to finished.....Paul Jones
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I've built all kind of instruments over the years. Built my first metal bodied National style ukes back in the 80's--didn't know that they had ever really existed before, but spun my own cones and everything. Anyway, your fearless style of building and willingness to take problems in stride and deal with them is extremely inspiring! If I had been as fearless as you back when I was doing metal bodied instruments, I'm sure I would have done better. Or maybe not--at any rate, I like your style.
Thank you.
6:32 Hey, you've got the same kind of forehead bumps I do. The dermatologist wouldn't touch them, said it would just make them spread.
Sun damage from 6 years treeplanting. I grind them down with my dremel every couple of years. No spreading.
"I am insufferably proud of that" - that is gold, gonna steal that one.
I like how the bead rolling gives you that ledge, which lends itself to all kinds of ornation.
I curved my metal arch top on the garage floor and putting all my weight on a furniture dolly and moving the caster wheel back and forward and side ways. Curved in pretty good. Lol
I like that approach, that's something I would do for sure :)
This series has been fantastic. Totally love the bead rolling.
Thank you, I'm having a good time with it.
Really enjoying this build
Looking fantastic!
Awesome I just love that back!! this time I didn't get deaf with the music's volume! yay! also I'm glad you're taking care of your eyes.
It takes a village... lol. Thanks for the feedback.
You might try staring the bead rolling from the centerline working both sides a section at a time . The idea being to create symmetrical stresses and hopefully any distortion is also symetrical but in a neutral axis.
I like that thinking. Thanks.
Very cool
Really great, loving it!
Nice !
Really great video , you got a new fan. Great honesty in there too that we all need to learn new skills. Thanks for sharing .
Thank you!
Very cool. Now I want a bead roller. Also would like to see more of that other shop.
Back be lookin good bro. Excellent good. Dam I need a bead roller now.
I used a flat back, the mushroom posts put a slight radius in it and stop any oil canning.
👍
Great video series! If you haven't considered an English wheel and planishing hammer, you should. With your skill level, you absolutely love them.
hydroforming! awesome... I mean,.. not sure if it would work for you, but I am totally going to try it on the bear boxes..
Looking great.
Thank you! Cheers!
The best way to form a curve like that in steel sheet is to use an 'English Wheel', refer to Ron Covell or Wray Schelin to see how. The English Wheel method is WAY faster than trying to press a curve into the sheet.
Great vwork, Great outcome! You sure are on a steep learning curve there buddy, but I love what you're doing. I make amps and have seriously thought about making metal cabinets for them because i make some really radical wooden ones, but after watching this I might just send you thr drawings and let you do it.
Nice, I made a wood cabinet for my 5 watt amp that I gig with. Turned out good but now you have me wondering what a metal cabinet would sound like... hmmmmm
maybe two rounds on the bead roller will even out the initial wonkiness - and then afterwards dish it with a form that only accepts the raised surface from the roll.
I'm by no means an expert, but I've seen armorers use something called an English wheel that might be useful in getting dents out of curved surfaces.
The raised corners is too much metal in those areas, you need to shrink them slightly. You can buy a cheap stretcher shrinker. A worthwhile investment for the shop
There's a lot of car guys on Utube making panels by hammer forming, English wheel, etc. They might be able to help you with the learning curve.
Thanks, I've been watching make it kustom a lot since I started this build. He makes the english wheel and hammer forming look easy but I can tell it's not. I do want to try an english wheel though.
Just wondering how you got to the aactual guitar with sides and neck.
Great job ,what gauge /thickness steel sheet did you use 🤔
I'm using 20 gauge steel. I started with much thinner stuff but it failed... miserably.
Hi great build. which grade of steel sheet you are used? sheet gauge and grade code number?
This guitar was 20 gauge mild steel. 20 gauge produces about a 9.5 pound guitar. I have switched to 22 gauge mild steel which brings the weight down to just over 8.5 pounds. Thank you.
How much do you loose when you bead roll and press the dom into the back?
That's a good question and one worth answering. It's less than 1/16 of an inch. My tabs that bend over are larger than needed so I wasn't worried about the difference. I should be able to get a specific number in the next few days as I'm about to bead roll another back, although I bought new dies that are different but it will still give us a good idea of the shrinkage.
Can anyone say English Wheel? Find someone with 1 and make them ur best friend, hell buy them a 12 pack lol. 😂
i just watched you build a steel resonator .....this is one of mine th-cam.com/video/YEG1jrv8zhk/w-d-xo.html........i made a set of steel dies for folding the edges of the top back and sound well ...and a mould for bending the covers too ....I have also discovered a couple new ideas.the first since these were invented .....all my tools are operated with bolts ....I have been negotiating with Rickard banjos to make them for me but that is not working out ....the new idas need explaining but they do make a huge difference to resonators ........my guitar moulds do not use english wheel or bead roller . ....if you are interested we can talk oh i made 5 bodies in 5 hrs to finished.....Paul Jones
could try hydroforming :
th-cam.com/video/kMz8JmDNVyw/w-d-xo.html
Whoa! That's really wild, I've never seen that before. I could see me blowing up my guitar and removing my head. Wild.