UPDATE!!! Since posting this I have found the 10Amp charger to be insufficient due to constant loads from our refrigerator and other items on our boat. As suspected, I need to install a larger battery charger. I will update after I've purchased, installed and tested the new charger. As usual, I'd love to know if anyone has any suggestions!!!
I have had so much fun with your video because we seem a lot alike and I am doing almost the same thing. My suggestion on your new charger, if it's not too late, would be to get an inverter charger, preferably one that is pure sine wave in the 2000 watt or better range. Thank you so much for putting all the headaches online, you might save me a few and I really, really appreciate that.
Peter Nickless You have no idea how great that is to hear today Peter! 🤣 We did already move to a different charger but thank you for the suggestion anyway. We went with a Mastervolt Powercharger 12/40-3. It's done really well for us. I have the new diagram up on our blog now. What do you think the advantaged or maybe any disadvantages with the combo are?
Tight Little Tribe Sailing just put 4 6v batteries in my rv, I went with a go power ic2000 its a 2000w pure sine wave inverter that when plugged into shore power is a 100amp charger and also has 50amp automatic transfer switch built in.
Thanks for the reply Brenton Freeman. We decided to go with a Mastervolt Powercharger 12/40-3. It's worked out very well for us, however, I like your suggestion as well!
JD!! This is AWESOME!!! Great job! And hey, just so you know, we rewired our batteries and installed an inverter with a certified marine electrician and we STILL found it frustrating. You're not alone. Love your videos.
+Ashley Wallace Haaa! Thank you Ashley! Yeh, when I would try to talk people through what I was doing, there was always some other way to do it, or an issue left unresolved. I seriously thought it was never going to end. I remember at one point, when I was finally installing the battery charger and I couldn't get the old wires pulled out or the new ones pulled through all the twists and turns they had to weave through, I just sat there looking at it for a LONG time. :) Then, another idea popped into my head and it worked out! I did discover that Trader Joe's Coconut Oil works GREAT for easing wires through tight spots! Thanks for the nice comment and feel free to share it around! The less frustration on boat projects, the more fun sailing!!
I done the same with the exception of the parallel connection on A and B, I left them as 2 independent banks with there own selector switch...reason for going this way was to protect each bank, so if something goes South I only loose 2 batteries as apposed to all 4.
Ah, good idea @Daniel Edelman. I'm all about having back-ups in my systems! I've seen plenty of boats with multiple switches but haven't really gone down the path of wiring for something like that. Do you also have an inverter, solar, wind or anything else wired into your system?
I have 2 40 Watt Solar panels, and a Xantrax 30 AMP 3 bank charger. My house bank switch is bank 1 , bank 2 and "All". I ran the "All" line to the Blue Seas add a battery switch. Therefor if I get to the point where I need the back up it would pull from both house banks and when the alternator is charging it can charge both house banks and the start battery. My plan is to add a smaller solar panel just to maintain the Start battery.
Just watched your video and I’d have to say, for a non-electrician, it looks like you did a good job! Best advice is to never rush, always research and think it thru BEFORE turning anything on. A few bits of advice and/or questions. First is wire size. Biggest problems I run into and the hardest to try and convince people to fix is UNDERSIZED wiring! I go with the bigger is best theory and thats based on my 45 yrs of electrical industrial construction experience, marine wiring, and lastly as an Electrical Safety Officer. 12 volt DC systems I wire all have a calculated voltage drop on all feeders and circuits of a MAXIMUM of 3% based on the load ampacity, wire length (there AND back). Yes, bigger wire = more money... whats your boat worth to you AND your families safety??? The next issue is with overcurrent protection (fuses or circuit breakers) There are prescribed locations where thy are required to be installed but basically its anywhere a wire receives a connection to power and at any point where that wire is downsized (ie: circuits leaving a panel) The only one that is exempt is the conductor to the starter... but even then, I’ve been known to fuse them too, depending on the type of engine/starter. The negative return wires are NEVER fused, but with an exception and that is the negative connection to the ACR needs a fuse. The Blue Seas Systems equipment is the most convenient and very well made (no, I don’t work for them, but I do buy from them!) I use their MRBF for protection of the ACR leads and also for feeders to panels from a dedicated 12 volt positive buss bar terminal with only the minimum of connections made onto the battery terminals themselves. I was glad to see that someone in the comments had mentioned the battery terminal wing nuts and you had said you where changing them out, smart guy! The ‘dilemma’ of making one big 12 volt battery bank from the 4 - 6 volt golf cart batteries vs 2 smaller 12 volt banks that remain isolated except under ‘emergency’ type conditions will drag on longer than any of ever care to hear... the bottom line is, its your boat, you know what loads you have, how often you want (need?) to run the engine to recharge them when away from shore power and, I like it the way you did it with the one battery switch for simplicity. Remember, there may be a time when someone other than you needs to run the boat and its not easy to explain, “turn switch #1 to position #2 but only when the moon is high and the tide is low...” (hopefully that makes sense? Just know that I’m a powerboater, so you’ll have to excuse me!!! 🤔😖🤨😱🤯😎 If theres anything else I can help you with let me know... I’m only a 3-4 hr flight north of you!!! Rick
Whoa! Thank you for the compliment and for such a thoroughly written response! I'm traveling at the moment but looking forward to digesting everything you've pointed out. Love it!
Good man Mr. Wyrguy2. As a tradesman myself and Journeyman in the Flooring Industry District 16 Local 12 (With most Membwers being Back stabbers and 2 face). Your Comment and reply is Awesome. Perfectly written. I agree with you about the Gauge size on the Wire. It plays a Huge Factor in Voltge Drop, Equipment Protection, Life Protection as well as SAFETY. To Mr. Tight Little Tribe Sailing. You are Awesome with a cool Wife and young Child. I also run the Blue System Relay and OnBoard Charger System (I have the 2 bank charger ProSport 2000amp. unit. I have a huge Stereo System on my Sanger V210. Anyways, You did great to your System . Be Proud cause you are helping a lot of people in the Boating World. anyways, look into 0/1 02 2/0 Guage Welding Wire for your Cables. That does play a big part that helps your voltage and the Equipment you have invested (your Sailboat, equipment and family). MrWyrGuy2 mentioned it in his Comment. Only you know what you have and what you Run on your Boat. You are Awesome.!anyways, go to AMAZON UNDER tMCO WIRES. May I add a tip about your Batteries and Location. Put some type of Vent inside that compartment with a fan to keep Air gases bulding up that can cause Dangerous Gases that can Lead to a posible "Divorce". Trust me, Those Golf Batteries do Gas up. That is what I Suggest. Again, you are Awesome.... Enjoy and have a Blessed Upcoming Boating Season...
Thank you so much for this. I have decided to try and do this change myself with my brother and we are clueless on what to do.. but instead of paying someone to do it we want to learn more about our boat. So the diagrams were a big help in the learning process. If I remember once we finish I will let you know how it went... wish us luck
Yes, these projects take about 10 times longer than planned! I just finished moving 3 start batteries from my houseboat’s engine compartment to the adjacent storage room, so as to gain more ease and access to engine maintenance work. I upgraded to AGM batteries from lead, this way I don’t have to worry about venting in a livable space nor battery fluid levels (extra maintenance). Not only moving the batteries reduces the engine compartment clutter (sorry sailboat operators who don’t have the space options of a houseboat), but now my batteries avoid hot summer engine compartments or being left in the cold during winter. I also upgraded to a ProMarine digital charger. I like your video! Good content, humor, and sound effects!
Hey thanks captaingordon! It just never stops, eh?! That's alright, it's a big part of why we got into boating anyway. Man, all that room in your houseboat does sound nice. Did you end up having to do some long runs with heavy gauge wire?
I think you presentation is excellent, probably one of the most down to earth I've seen. It makes me so happy to see all the positive leads to and from the positive terminal of the starting battery and switch, lol. It would seem one could run the main alternator lead to the starting battery, and a second lead to the common post on a 3 way switch, but that would require a 3rd lead back to the main starting battery...or the couldn't combine in a 1+2 config. maybe;) Yamaha told me to forget switches and sent me a small red lead for accessory battery charging. Whatever, I use the Blue Sea system, with the ACR. Thank you so much. You did a great job, and it is appreciated. It does take awhile to get it right.
Hi Richard, thanks so much for taking the time to write such a nice comment. I was honestly a bit worried when I put this video out as I had seen so many other videos on the subject just get trashed in the comments. Ha! I love our tight little tribe of subscribers though! Really positive crew here. Cheers. JD
Hi. Thank you for this informative video. Now when I get home and have switched the ACR to Off. The green light flashes every 15 seconds standby mode. Will this drain either battery if the boat is not run for a few weeks?? How can I overcome this parasitic draw?? How did you wire the on off switch to completely turn off the ACR when away from the boat???
I bought the ACR model that has the yellow manual switch on top 6 months ago. I finally installed it last night. I must have went to West Marine and Homedepot 5 times because everytime I thought I had everything I needed to install it, I didn't. I tried my best to make it work with my existing red switch that had 3 lugs on the back but it wasn't meant to be so I had to buy the 5511e switch. I upgraded wire size for the house circuit and breaker while I was at it.
great video man. I started having electrical issues so it getting time to scrap my old battery setup and start from scratch. I also had a hard time finding what I needed online. This looks like it could work for me but I have two engines...from what I have read I can start both engines from one battery and if needed they should pull from the house bank if needed.
Well done! I must have missed something. The diagram does not show any fuses between the Marinco charger and either house bank or the starting battery. Guessing that they are installed on the boat, and got left off the diagram. Blue Sea Marine Battery Terminal Fuses (MTBF) are a good way to address this. MTBFs mount directly on the battery positive terminal so that all connections to the battery are fused. For my 55A alternator on the Yanmar 2GM20F with 6AWG wiring the Blue Sea iPhone app suggests 60A or 70A fuses.
Sometimes it takes a village to get it done, the only thing I see in the the diagram that I don't like is the leed from your alternator is always hot. I would like to see a switch or a big ass note on the alternator to disconnect the lead from the battery when working on engine wiring. When I added a starting battery it was on a seperate switch it went to the starter, the alternator was isolated and went to a diode isolator it's like a one way valve. I have three leads coming from the isolator 2 house batteries and engine starting battery. This way I can switch house batteries when the engine is running ( I like a reserve battery so I can judge power usage easy) and not fry my diodes in the alternator. Granted with the engine running there is no need to change batteries but its a fail safe and it's a habit I conserve half my house bank when sailing I might add I do a lot of solo sailing but when I have friends along they can switch any switch and not kill the alternator. Thanks for your films!
Did that charge all the 6 V batteries cause I have 312 V batteries hooked up for 36 V and I have to put a charger on every battery separately I cannot just put the charger on one battery and have them all charge so I don't see how you were charging all those batteries just by going to one terminal
Hey thanks for the video, was useful for me getting ready to make this upgrade. One question, what is the permantly on positive wire from the starting battery to the engine? You have two positives going to the engine, one switched, one not. What are those two? Thanks
Looking at the diagram I don't understand why you have red wire going to the engine two times. Once thru the big red switch, once straight from battery which looks as tho you will be pushing voltage to (alternator, rectifier?) when onboard charger is on. Is one of the red wires going to engine just a small wire going to alternator or both of them big cranking sized wire? Looks like engine will have power going to it when big red switch is turned off. The only wire i can see needing to bypass being switched off is an automatic bilge pump.
I installed this system in the spring......the toughest part for me was the very poor wiring schematic on the box. What they need to do in include a CLEAR instruction to go to their website with the link CLEARLY indicated on the box or instructions. By the time you get right down to it....the wiring and fuses/holders cost as much as the unit itself. But I have found that with all things boat electrical. Just a suggestion...you seem to have a lot of head space in the cabinet . I would for sure install L16 to get more reserve next battery replacement. Admire your perseverance!!!! Cheers
We learned a lot on this project! Hope the diagrams help some folks. If you have experience with wiring, is there anything in here you would set up differently?
are you manually closing the ground to power the ACR? I see u have a switch in the diagram. otherwise If ACR monitors 24 hr, the battery charger will fool the ACR and make it combine, doing away with the two bank feature of the charger. Im sure you have figured this out by now. Do you have a remote pilot hooked to it? If so, did you find that only an LED indicator will work?
Great Tribe u have there....u guys seem like really great folks. As for your scenarios.....meeeeee toooo man. If it is supposed to take an hour to assemble it takes me 3. If they say its just down the road u cant miss it....I miss it. I like things to be tight and right...I want to completely understand what the heck I am doing and why. Usually videos are my best source of learning. I am about to install my second add a battery kit from blue seas systems and I am in much better shape going in for round 2. I must say if u have ever called Blue Seas directly their tech support is fantastic. My only question about your set up from one novice to another is why did you use a bus bar prior to the ACR vs just connection to the ACR? Was this in case u might want to use future connections to said bus bar for power???
Thanks redwood1957. I'm sure I could get something over to you. Email me so I can send it to you that way. We're tightlittletribe@gmail.com Thanks for the comment and for liking our video!
In case someone else needs it and they can't figure out the screen shot, you can also do a "snip". Search "snip" in a Microsoft computer and click "new" when it opens, then just click and drag the screen area you want to select. File > print is an option in the newer version. The older version you have to click copy then paste it to ms word to print. (Open MS Word first, then click copy in the snipping software). Nice clean diagram
Adventures of the Tight Little Tribe I’m just trying to figure out how it all works because I find marine wiring fascinating lol. I’m looking at the leads wired to that switch and I’m trying to figure out how that switch works. I saw two positive wires going to the engine. I was curious why two positive leads are needed to the engine but then it dawned on me that one must be the alternator lead for recharging. That lead me to my next question. I’m assuming that switch connects the left side contacts in one position and the right side contacts in the other position. The ACR sits in between the bank and the starter battery which isolates the two when the bank is under load. Does the ACR also work the other direction allowing the starter battery and bank batteries to be charged in parallel?
Adventures of the Tight Little Tribe I myself am trying to figure out how I can wire up a buddies boat with 3 batteries which is what lead me here. He has a 24V trolling motor (two 12V batteries run in series) and a dedicated starter battery. I’m trying to figure out how they can be wired to provide 24V to the trolling motor AND somehow charge the batteries in parallel using the alternator from the engine. The series connection from the positive lead of one battery to the negative lead of another battery would need to be broken for charging and the positive lead to the starter battery would need to be broken while the trolling motor is in use. I’m trying to do it using as few switches as possible.
I believe that is the case, however it's been quite some time since I did the project and I find it to be like learning a new language; if I'm out of practice I forget a lot of it! 😀
Great video ! Ever think of installing 12 volt lithium battery's instead of 6 volt lead acid filled battery's? Lithium has a quicker charge time, longer run time , plus safer than lead battery's, especially when enclosed in a cabin under the stairs... lithium are more expensive but way more cost effective in the long run...
Thanks David. I have drooled over such things before, yes! But at the time I was needing to take care of the problem of my old batteries quickly and cheaply as possible. As you could see it was a bit frustrating and the first time I'd taken on such a project. I learned a TON though and will carry that on to the next project. We've definitely kicked around the idea of a different set up. I think SV Delos has some videos on their upgrades to lithium right? Have you seen that one? They also have a sweet alternative to their stove too. We have CNG right now and are looking either to convert to propane or some other alternative. Any experience with that? Anyway, glad you liked the video and thanks for commenting and subscribing! JD
Did I miss something? You explain wiring your 6 volt batteries in series but the why didn't you explain the whole diagram? Where were the fuses? What guage wire did you use? How did you water tight seal the wire? Why did you have acr connected that way?
Hey there Ken! Yeh, I think you did ‘miss something’. Ya know, that whole part where I was like, ‘I have no f’ing idea what I’m doing here.’ But hey, those are all dern good questions. You should go on TH-cam, research all those things then build us all a video explaining what you come up with! 🤣 Thanks for watching!
Hi Tight Little Tribe, I Really enjoyed Your Video, it's the best I have found on the Blue Sea Add a Battery. I am not an electrion but I'm intending on using this system on my Van Conversion to add a Aux Battery. (with a single12 volt 200Amp hour Battery ) I do Have a couple questions. On The Swtich itself.. does that wire going to engine, mean to the alternator positive ?.. and what guage of wire do you think that should be, it needs to travel about 10 feet. On the ACR, the wire going to the starter, guage of that wire. appox. 10 ft. as well. and DO I need Fuses on those wires as well. This Doesn't seem to be that Difficult, but I do have my concerns.. Thank You for taking the time to Do Your Video, the Directions on this product are not as good as they should be. Sincerely CGM 469
I'm checking over my van install this morning before starting it up for the first time. I definitely agree, the install instructions for the switches are a waste of paper. The selector position doesn't match to the post positions in the back, which I find unhelpful (given the poor instructions provided). They don't say anything about running power backwards through the switch either. Have you had any issues with your setup yet?
I'm glad to finally find a video on this setup - good job! I'm trying to understand the purpose of the dual circuit switch and what "On" and "Off" mean. Does "On" mean the two batteries groups (starter, house) are fully operational and working normally as separate groups? Does "Off" mean they are disconnected and not operational to save on battery drain? Is the switch even needed for the ACR to function or how do the compliment each other?
Hi Guys, It all looks good, great video. If you need anymore advice or help, or just want someone to check your work, the best electrical guy is right there at Berkeley Marine center. His name is Howard Keiper, and he is by far the most fun and knowledgeable guy that I have ever had the pleasure of working with. He is from the old think, plan and do it right, generation. He works on everything electrical for boats. If you talk to Howard tell him I said hi!, he is like family to me now. Take care, Blair
Hey thanks Blair! Howard is great. We were just over at BMC tonight but didn't see much of the crew around. We definitely like the 'think, plan and do it right' mentality...but sometimes the 'do' just doesn't go like we thought or planned. Haaa! Cheers buddy!
Hi JD. Just an observation from your circuit diagram that you may want to check over; There appears to be an unfused line that goes from house-bank B2 (-ve) to House-bank A1 (+ve) via two switches in series. I assume that these switches actually isolate the charger from the house bank and that you have deviated from your red/black drawing from earlier in the vid. Otherwise, if these two switches are inadvertently simultaneously closed you may end up with an unexpected BBQ opportunity. I'm sure its a drawing thing and not an actual wiring thing but having spotted it I thought it best to "speak up". Hey, well done on giving this a go and on keeping it simple! It is almost six months down the line since you posted this vid now, I'd love to hear how it has all worked out...
Hey there Waughthog Waugh. Thanks for the comment and the concern. You have my attention, yet not my understanding. :( I don't see which line you could be talking about. Is this from the final drawing that is the Thumbnail for the video? Did you see the thumbnail I posted in Facebook today? Would love to get to a point of understanding on this one! Yeh, you're right though, we're several months into this and the batteries and the new charger are working out really well. We've spent several nights out on the hook and find that we have plenty of power to suit our needs at anchor. Solar power will be the next electrical project!
Hey guys, I know you have completed you install but I would highly recommend Pacific Yacht Stystems' You Tube channel. Jeff has a bunch of exceptional videos on boat electrical systems.
Ha! Of all people, you should know that 'completed' doesn't mean finished. Dude, I watched what you're working on and sub'd. Can't wait to see more. I also went and checked Pacific Yacht Systems. Looks like that's going to be a really helpful resource in the future as well! Thanks for pointing me in that direction and for the comment!
Good luck with the rest of your project, also subd. I like Jeff because he is fanatical about 12 volt electrical. A ton of good info in his videos. I am actually putting in a 24 volt Tesla battery bank in my rig.
Three year old video. Get rid of the wing nuts and replace with split lock washers flat washers and regular nuts made for batteries if you haven't already. And all of the wires look to small if your powering any thing more then just lights. I'm not a boat electrician but I think your off and on switch needs to be in a area that can very quickly be gotten to if a short or electrical fire were to happen and your not around to move the stairs? One more very BIG thing is I didn't see a Catastrophe fuse in place at either of the house batteries Positive post before the battery switch or the starter battery POS post and I don't mean the two fuses that belong between the ACR and the batteries. Size the Catastrophic fuse to handle the load but protect the wires, those smaller gauge wires need to be protected if a short were to happen any where in your system. Normally you don't fuse a starter battery. But there are systems where it would be beneficial. I was surprised that your start battery isn't closer to the engine. Lots of voltage loss in long wire runs. Boat electrician would clear that up.
Man, until now this is the best diagram i ve seen. Was looking for it for 3 days. THank you soo much. can you send me some more details about it i ll send PM on instagram to you "tightlittletribe ". Thanks in advance. Greetings from Malta.
th-cam.com/video/t1NFYandm_4/w-d-xo.html Zbuduj stały prąd elektryczny 14v Z wyłącznikiem Start stop dla pojazdów elektrycznych, rowery, skutery i samochód.
UPDATE!!! Since posting this I have found the 10Amp charger to be insufficient due to constant loads from our refrigerator and other items on our boat. As suspected, I need to install a larger battery charger. I will update after I've purchased, installed and tested the new charger. As usual, I'd love to know if anyone has any suggestions!!!
I have had so much fun with your video because we seem a lot alike and I am doing almost the same thing. My suggestion on your new charger, if it's not too late, would be to get an inverter charger, preferably one that is pure sine wave in the 2000 watt or better range. Thank you so much for putting all the headaches online, you might save me a few and I really, really appreciate that.
Peter Nickless You have no idea how great that is to hear today Peter! 🤣 We did already move to a different charger but thank you for the suggestion anyway. We went with a Mastervolt Powercharger 12/40-3. It's done really well for us. I have the new diagram up on our blog now. What do you think the advantaged or maybe any disadvantages with the combo are?
Tight Little Tribe Sailing just put 4 6v batteries in my rv, I went with a go power ic2000 its a 2000w pure sine wave inverter that when plugged into shore power is a 100amp charger and also has 50amp automatic transfer switch built in.
Thanks for the reply Brenton Freeman. We decided to go with a Mastervolt Powercharger 12/40-3. It's worked out very well for us, however, I like your suggestion as well!
JD!! This is AWESOME!!! Great job! And hey, just so you know, we rewired our batteries and installed an inverter with a certified marine electrician and we STILL found it frustrating. You're not alone.
Love your videos.
+Ashley Wallace Haaa! Thank you Ashley! Yeh, when I would try to talk people through what I was doing, there was always some other way to do it, or an issue left unresolved. I seriously thought it was never going to end. I remember at one point, when I was finally installing the battery charger and I couldn't get the old wires pulled out or the new ones pulled through all the twists and turns they had to weave through, I just sat there looking at it for a LONG time. :) Then, another idea popped into my head and it worked out! I did discover that Trader Joe's Coconut Oil works GREAT for easing wires through tight spots! Thanks for the nice comment and feel free to share it around! The less frustration on boat projects, the more fun sailing!!
I done the same with the exception of the parallel connection on A and B, I left them as 2 independent banks with there own selector switch...reason for going this way was to protect each bank, so if something goes South I only loose 2 batteries as apposed to all 4.
Ah, good idea @Daniel Edelman. I'm all about having back-ups in my systems! I've seen plenty of boats with multiple switches but haven't really gone down the path of wiring for something like that. Do you also have an inverter, solar, wind or anything else wired into your system?
I have 2 40 Watt Solar panels, and a Xantrax 30 AMP 3 bank charger. My house bank switch is bank 1 , bank 2 and "All". I ran the "All" line to the Blue Seas add a battery switch. Therefor if I get to the point where I need the back up it would pull from both house banks and when the alternator is charging it can charge both house banks and the start battery. My plan is to add a smaller solar panel just to maintain the Start battery.
Fantastic!
Just watched your video and I’d have to say, for a non-electrician, it looks like you did a good job! Best advice is to never rush, always research and think it thru BEFORE turning anything on. A few bits of advice and/or questions. First is wire size. Biggest problems I run into and the hardest to try and convince people to fix is UNDERSIZED wiring! I go with the bigger is best theory and thats based on my 45 yrs of electrical industrial construction experience, marine wiring, and lastly as an Electrical Safety Officer. 12 volt DC systems I wire all have a calculated voltage drop on all feeders and circuits of a MAXIMUM of 3% based on the load ampacity, wire length (there AND back). Yes, bigger wire = more money... whats your boat worth to you AND your families safety??? The next issue is with overcurrent protection (fuses or circuit breakers) There are prescribed locations where thy are required to be installed but basically its anywhere a wire receives a connection to power and at any point where that wire is downsized (ie: circuits leaving a panel) The only one that is exempt is the conductor to the starter... but even then, I’ve been known to fuse them too, depending on the type of engine/starter. The negative return wires are NEVER fused, but with an exception and that is the negative connection to the ACR needs a fuse. The Blue Seas Systems equipment is the most convenient and very well made (no, I don’t work for them, but I do buy from them!) I use their MRBF for protection of the ACR leads and also for feeders to panels from a dedicated 12 volt positive buss bar terminal with only the minimum of connections made onto the battery terminals themselves. I was glad to see that someone in the comments had mentioned the battery terminal wing nuts and you had said you where changing them out, smart guy! The ‘dilemma’ of making one big 12 volt battery bank from the 4 - 6 volt golf cart batteries vs 2 smaller 12 volt banks that remain isolated except under ‘emergency’ type conditions will drag on longer than any of ever care to hear... the bottom line is, its your boat, you know what loads you have, how often you want (need?) to run the engine to recharge them when away from shore power and, I like it the way you did it with the one battery switch for simplicity. Remember, there may be a time when someone other than you needs to run the boat and its not easy to explain, “turn switch #1 to position #2 but only when the moon is high and the tide is low...” (hopefully that makes sense? Just know that I’m a powerboater, so you’ll have to excuse me!!! 🤔😖🤨😱🤯😎 If theres anything else I can help you with let me know... I’m only a 3-4 hr flight north of you!!! Rick
Whoa! Thank you for the compliment and for such a thoroughly written response! I'm traveling at the moment but looking forward to digesting everything you've pointed out. Love it!
Good man Mr. Wyrguy2. As a tradesman myself and Journeyman in the Flooring Industry District 16 Local 12 (With most Membwers being Back stabbers and 2 face). Your Comment and reply is Awesome. Perfectly written. I agree with you about the Gauge size on the Wire. It plays a Huge Factor in Voltge Drop, Equipment Protection, Life Protection as well as SAFETY. To Mr. Tight Little Tribe Sailing. You are Awesome with a cool Wife and young Child. I also run the Blue System Relay and OnBoard Charger System (I have the 2 bank charger ProSport 2000amp. unit. I have a huge Stereo System on my Sanger V210. Anyways, You did great to your System . Be Proud cause you are helping a lot of people in the Boating World. anyways, look into 0/1 02 2/0 Guage Welding Wire for your Cables. That does play a big part that helps your voltage and the Equipment you have invested (your Sailboat, equipment and family). MrWyrGuy2 mentioned it in his Comment. Only you know what you have and what you Run on your Boat. You are Awesome.!anyways, go to AMAZON UNDER tMCO WIRES. May I add a tip about your Batteries and Location. Put some type of Vent inside that compartment with a fan to keep Air gases bulding up that can cause Dangerous Gases that can Lead to a posible "Divorce". Trust me, Those Golf Batteries do Gas up. That is what I Suggest.
Again, you are Awesome....
Enjoy and have a Blessed Upcoming Boating Season...
Thank you so much for this. I have decided to try and do this change myself with my brother and we are clueless on what to do.. but instead of paying someone to do it we want to learn more about our boat. So the diagrams were a big help in the learning process. If I remember once we finish I will let you know how it went... wish us luck
Thanks bro and good luck with the project. Do you think you'll do a video of it or document it somehow?
Yes, these projects take about 10 times longer than planned!
I just finished moving 3 start batteries from my houseboat’s engine compartment to the adjacent storage room, so as to gain more ease and access to engine maintenance work. I upgraded to AGM batteries from lead, this way I don’t have to worry about venting in a livable space nor battery fluid levels (extra maintenance).
Not only moving the batteries reduces the engine compartment clutter (sorry sailboat operators who don’t have the space options of a houseboat), but now my batteries avoid hot summer engine compartments or being left in the cold during winter.
I also upgraded to a ProMarine digital charger.
I like your video! Good content, humor, and sound effects!
Hey thanks captaingordon! It just never stops, eh?! That's alright, it's a big part of why we got into boating anyway. Man, all that room in your houseboat does sound nice. Did you end up having to do some long runs with heavy gauge wire?
Really enjoyed the video I got mine like 4 years ago and still have not installed it but you motivated me to do it.
I just binge watched all your videos love how you make the bay seem so calm. Keep up the good work and please make more videos
I need to do my 50ft sailboat this summer, I feel just like you.
I think you presentation is excellent, probably one of the most down to earth I've seen. It makes me so happy to see all the positive leads to and from the positive terminal of the starting battery and switch, lol. It would seem one could run the main alternator lead to the starting battery, and a second lead to the common post on a 3 way switch, but that would require a 3rd lead back to the main starting battery...or the couldn't combine in a 1+2 config. maybe;) Yamaha told me to forget switches and sent me a small red lead for accessory battery charging. Whatever, I use the Blue Sea system, with the ACR. Thank you so much. You did a great job, and it is appreciated. It does take awhile to get it right.
Hi Richard, thanks so much for taking the time to write such a nice comment. I was honestly a bit worried when I put this video out as I had seen so many other videos on the subject just get trashed in the comments. Ha! I love our tight little tribe of subscribers though! Really positive crew here. Cheers. JD
Hi. Thank you for this informative video. Now when I get home and have switched the ACR to Off. The green light flashes every 15 seconds standby mode. Will this drain either battery if the boat is not run for a few weeks?? How can I overcome this parasitic draw??
How did you wire the on off switch to completely turn off the ACR when away from the boat???
I bought the ACR model that has the yellow manual switch on top 6 months ago. I finally installed it last night. I must have went to West Marine and Homedepot 5 times because everytime I thought I had everything I needed to install it, I didn't. I tried my best to make it work with my existing red switch that had 3 lugs on the back but it wasn't meant to be so I had to buy the 5511e switch. I upgraded wire size for the house circuit and breaker while I was at it.
Thank you I have to start from scratch as the boat we bought only had one big old lead acid I believe. I well be learning much.
great video man. I started having electrical issues so it getting time to scrap my old battery setup and start from scratch. I also had a hard time finding what I needed online. This looks like it could work for me but I have two engines...from what I have read I can start both engines from one battery and if needed they should pull from the house bank if needed.
Hey Russell Taylor, glad you found it helpful! Thank you for the comment!
You did it!!!
Well done! I must have missed something. The diagram does not show any fuses between the Marinco charger and either house bank or the starting battery. Guessing that they are installed on the boat, and got left off the diagram. Blue Sea Marine Battery Terminal Fuses (MTBF) are a good way to address this. MTBFs mount directly on the battery positive terminal so that all connections to the battery are fused. For my 55A alternator on the Yanmar 2GM20F with 6AWG wiring the Blue Sea iPhone app suggests 60A or 70A fuses.
Amazing job JD!!
Thanks Lara!
Sometimes it takes a village to get it done, the only thing I see in the the diagram that I don't like is the leed from your alternator is always hot. I would like to see a switch or a big ass note on the alternator to disconnect the lead from the battery when working on engine wiring.
When I added a starting battery it was on a seperate switch it went to the starter, the alternator was isolated and went to a diode isolator it's like a one way valve. I have three leads coming from the isolator 2 house batteries and engine starting battery. This way I can switch house batteries when the engine is running ( I like a reserve battery so I can judge power usage easy) and not fry my diodes in the alternator. Granted with the engine running there is no need to change batteries but its a fail safe and it's a habit I conserve half my house bank when sailing I might add I do a lot of solo sailing but when I have friends along they can switch any switch and not kill the alternator.
Thanks for your films!
Didn't notice any inline fuse by your battery. Something easy to put in even after the fact.
Wondering if you upgrade or have solar panels to charge the batteries?
Did that charge all the 6 V batteries cause I have 312 V batteries hooked up for 36 V and I have to put a charger on every battery separately I cannot just put the charger on one battery and have them all charge so I don't see how you were charging all those batteries just by going to one terminal
On the left of the switch you have cable going to the panel is the a fuse or open switch.?
on the acr is that a switch or a fuse as it should be a fuse
Hey thanks for the video, was useful for me getting ready to make this upgrade. One question, what is the permantly on positive wire from the starting battery to the engine? You have two positives going to the engine, one switched, one not. What are those two? Thanks
Looking at the diagram I don't understand why you have red wire going to the engine two times. Once thru the big red switch, once straight from battery which looks as tho you will be pushing voltage to (alternator, rectifier?) when onboard charger is on. Is one of the red wires going to engine just a small wire going to alternator or both of them big cranking sized wire? Looks like engine will have power going to it when big red switch is turned off.
The only wire i can see needing to bypass being switched off is an automatic bilge pump.
I installed this system in the spring......the toughest part for me was the very poor wiring schematic on the box. What they need to do in include a CLEAR instruction to go to their website with the link CLEARLY indicated on the box or instructions. By the time you get right down to it....the wiring and fuses/holders cost as much as the unit itself. But I have found that with all things boat electrical. Just a suggestion...you seem to have a lot of head space in the cabinet . I would for sure install L16 to get more reserve next battery replacement. Admire your perseverance!!!! Cheers
We learned a lot on this project! Hope the diagrams help some folks. If you have experience with wiring, is there anything in here you would set up differently?
are you manually closing the ground to power the ACR? I see u have a switch in the diagram. otherwise If ACR monitors 24 hr, the battery charger will fool the ACR and make it combine, doing away with the two bank feature of the charger. Im sure you have figured this out by now.
Do you have a remote pilot hooked to it? If so, did you find that only an LED indicator will work?
Great Tribe u have there....u guys seem like really great folks. As for your scenarios.....meeeeee toooo man. If it is supposed to take an hour to assemble it takes me 3. If they say its just down the road u cant miss it....I miss it. I like things to be tight and right...I want to completely understand what the heck I am doing and why. Usually videos are my best source of learning. I am about to install my second add a battery kit from blue seas systems and I am in much better shape going in for round 2. I must say if u have ever called Blue Seas directly their tech support is fantastic. My only question about your set up from one novice to another is why did you use a bus bar prior to the ACR vs just connection to the ACR? Was this in case u might want to use future connections to said bus bar for power???
A fine job looks good.Works thats the bonus. Do you have this in a drawing that one could copy paste and print?
Thank you
Thanks redwood1957. I'm sure I could get something over to you. Email me so I can send it to you that way. We're tightlittletribe@gmail.com
Thanks for the comment and for liking our video!
pause the video and screen shoot it
In case someone else needs it and they can't figure out the screen shot, you can also do a "snip". Search "snip" in a Microsoft computer and click "new"
when it opens, then just click and drag the screen area you want to select. File > print is an option in the newer version. The older version you have to click copy then paste it to ms word to print. (Open MS Word first, then click copy in the snipping software).
Nice clean diagram
Nice work! I stumbled across this video and just found your wiring diagram intriguing. Question: what’s the battery switch for?
Right. Well it is suposed to isolate the house bank from the starter battery. Why do you ask?
Adventures of the Tight Little Tribe I’m just trying to figure out how it all works because I find marine wiring fascinating lol. I’m looking at the leads wired to that switch and I’m trying to figure out how that switch works. I saw two positive wires going to the engine. I was curious why two positive leads are needed to the engine but then it dawned on me that one must be the alternator lead for recharging. That lead me to my next question. I’m assuming that switch connects the left side contacts in one position and the right side contacts in the other position. The ACR sits in between the bank and the starter battery which isolates the two when the bank is under load. Does the ACR also work the other direction allowing the starter battery and bank batteries to be charged in parallel?
Adventures of the Tight Little Tribe I myself am trying to figure out how I can wire up a buddies boat with 3 batteries which is what lead me here. He has a 24V trolling motor (two 12V batteries run in series) and a dedicated starter battery. I’m trying to figure out how they can be wired to provide 24V to the trolling motor AND somehow charge the batteries in parallel using the alternator from the engine. The series connection from the positive lead of one battery to the negative lead of another battery would need to be broken for charging and the positive lead to the starter battery would need to be broken while the trolling motor is in use. I’m trying to do it using as few switches as possible.
I believe that is the case, however it's been quite some time since I did the project and I find it to be like learning a new language; if I'm out of practice I forget a lot of it! 😀
Great video ! Ever think of installing 12 volt lithium battery's instead of 6 volt lead acid filled battery's?
Lithium has a quicker charge time, longer run time , plus safer than lead battery's, especially when enclosed in a cabin under the stairs... lithium are more expensive but way more cost effective in the long run...
Thanks David. I have drooled over such things before, yes! But at the time I was needing to take care of the problem of my old batteries quickly and cheaply as possible. As you could see it was a bit frustrating and the first time I'd taken on such a project. I learned a TON though and will carry that on to the next project. We've definitely kicked around the idea of a different set up. I think SV Delos has some videos on their upgrades to lithium right? Have you seen that one? They also have a sweet alternative to their stove too. We have CNG right now and are looking either to convert to propane or some other alternative. Any experience with that?
Anyway, glad you liked the video and thanks for commenting and subscribing!
JD
Did I miss something? You explain wiring your 6 volt batteries in series but the why didn't you explain the whole diagram? Where were the fuses? What guage wire did you use? How did you water tight seal the wire? Why did you have acr connected that way?
Hey there Ken! Yeh, I think you did ‘miss something’. Ya know, that whole part where I was like, ‘I have no f’ing idea what I’m doing here.’ But hey, those are all dern good questions. You should go on TH-cam, research all those things then build us all a video explaining what you come up with! 🤣 Thanks for watching!
Hi Tight Little Tribe, I Really enjoyed Your Video, it's the best I have found on the Blue Sea Add a Battery. I am not an electrion but I'm intending on using this system on my Van Conversion to add a Aux Battery. (with a single12 volt 200Amp hour Battery ) I do Have a couple questions. On The Swtich itself.. does that wire going to engine, mean to the alternator positive ?.. and what guage of wire do you think that should be, it needs to travel about 10 feet. On the ACR, the wire going to the starter, guage of that wire. appox. 10 ft. as well. and DO I need Fuses on those wires as well. This Doesn't seem to be that Difficult, but I do have my concerns.. Thank You for taking the time to Do Your Video, the Directions on this product are not as good as they should be. Sincerely CGM 469
I'm checking over my van install this morning before starting it up for the first time. I definitely agree, the install instructions for the switches are a waste of paper. The selector position doesn't match to the post positions in the back, which I find unhelpful (given the poor instructions provided). They don't say anything about running power backwards through the switch either. Have you had any issues with your setup yet?
I'm glad to finally find a video on this setup - good job! I'm trying to understand the purpose of the dual circuit switch and what "On" and "Off" mean. Does "On" mean the two batteries groups (starter, house) are fully operational and working normally as separate groups? Does "Off" mean they are disconnected and not operational to save on battery drain? Is the switch even needed for the ACR to function or how do the compliment each other?
This is the best explaination I have seen on how it works : th-cam.com/video/vPhD7fgYq3w/w-d-xo.html
How much cranking amps can that switch take?
The big red switch I believe is rated for 350amps and the ACR is rated I believe 500amps (for a certain length of time) but I may be wrong.
Hi Guys, It all looks good, great video. If you need anymore advice or help, or just want someone to check your work, the best electrical guy is right there at Berkeley Marine center. His name is Howard Keiper, and he is by far the most fun and knowledgeable guy that I have ever had the pleasure of working with. He is from the old think, plan and do it right, generation. He works on everything electrical for boats. If you talk to Howard tell him I said hi!, he is like family to me now. Take care, Blair
Hey thanks Blair! Howard is great. We were just over at BMC tonight but didn't see much of the crew around. We definitely like the 'think, plan and do it right' mentality...but sometimes the 'do' just doesn't go like we thought or planned. Haaa! Cheers buddy!
Hi JD. Just an observation from your circuit diagram that you may want to check over; There appears to be an unfused line that goes from house-bank B2 (-ve) to House-bank A1 (+ve) via two switches in series. I assume that these switches actually isolate the charger from the house bank and that you have deviated from your red/black drawing from earlier in the vid. Otherwise, if these two switches are inadvertently simultaneously closed you may end up with an unexpected BBQ opportunity. I'm sure its a drawing thing and not an actual wiring thing but having spotted it I thought it best to "speak up". Hey, well done on giving this a go and on keeping it simple! It is almost six months down the line since you posted this vid now, I'd love to hear how it has all worked out...
Hey there Waughthog Waugh. Thanks for the comment and the concern. You have my attention, yet not my understanding. :( I don't see which line you could be talking about. Is this from the final drawing that is the Thumbnail for the video? Did you see the thumbnail I posted in Facebook today? Would love to get to a point of understanding on this one!
Yeh, you're right though, we're several months into this and the batteries and the new charger are working out really well. We've spent several nights out on the hook and find that we have plenty of power to suit our needs at anchor. Solar power will be the next electrical project!
Hey guys, I know you have completed you install but I would highly recommend Pacific Yacht Stystems' You Tube channel. Jeff has a bunch of exceptional videos on boat electrical systems.
Ha! Of all people, you should know that 'completed' doesn't mean finished. Dude, I watched what you're working on and sub'd. Can't wait to see more.
I also went and checked Pacific Yacht Systems. Looks like that's going to be a really helpful resource in the future as well! Thanks for pointing me in that direction and for the comment!
Good luck with the rest of your project, also subd. I like Jeff because he is fanatical about 12 volt electrical. A ton of good info in his videos. I am actually putting in a 24 volt Tesla battery bank in my rig.
I'll second PYS... been really helpful during my rehab of my project boat.
Yeh man I checked him out. Amazing and definately subscribed! Thanks Mark!
Tight Little Tribe Sailing Jeff will tell you to remove those wing nuts and use regular nuts with lock washers
Three year old video. Get rid of the wing nuts and replace with split lock washers flat washers and regular nuts made for batteries if you haven't already. And all of the wires look to small if your powering any thing more then just lights. I'm not a boat electrician but I think your off and on switch needs to be in a area that can very quickly be gotten to if a short or electrical fire were to happen and your not around to move the stairs? One more very BIG thing is I didn't see a Catastrophe fuse in place at either of the house batteries Positive post before the battery switch or the starter battery POS post and I don't mean the two fuses that belong between the ACR and the batteries. Size the Catastrophic fuse to handle the load but protect the wires, those smaller gauge wires need to be protected if a short were to happen any where in your system. Normally you don't fuse a starter battery. But there are systems where it would be beneficial. I was surprised that your start battery isn't closer to the engine. Lots of voltage loss in long wire runs. Boat electrician would clear that up.
Man, until now this is the best diagram i ve seen. Was looking for it for 3 days. THank you soo much. can you send me some more details about it i ll send PM on instagram to you "tightlittletribe
".
Thanks in advance. Greetings from Malta.
Thank you so much for the feedback. I responded to your Instagram message!
@@moosepassyachtclub Thank you so much...
24 v to 12v 40 amp and 5 amp for H1 HUMMER
th-cam.com/video/t1NFYandm_4/w-d-xo.html
Zbuduj stały prąd elektryczny 14v
Z wyłącznikiem Start stop dla pojazdów elektrycznych, rowery, skutery i samochód.