Thanks a lot mate, I've only worked on Harley forks (Showa) and some custom ones so this helped a lot despite having the same manual as you. Everything in my son's recently purchased 535 had been in place since the factory for 32 years so they were so stuck I broke a Bacho tool trying to loosen the nightmare bottom bolt 😮 but a regular rounded broomstick was enough to hold it in place after I got it loose. Thanks and greetings from Finland, Henkka from Brüdern MC
Thanks for the help. The little clip at the top was a bummer to get out, then I used a sash clamp (cramp) and compressed the forks. This allowed me to concentrate on the clip. The added advantage of the clamp was that when you slowly unscrew to take it off, it controls the spacer and stopped it firing across the room or into your face, as seen in another video on here,
Nice one, is good to see a fellow biker with the same nickname (Doc), and the same bike (1995xv535s) need to just change the fork oil in mine. Not been changed for over 25 years.
Love your methods and seeing you do this just made me come.up with other alternate ways as i didnt have your wizard tools 😂 good video dude.. just saved me time and money
P.s. if ur doing the nightmare of the top circlip and by chance have an audi tt jack (or small, similar to it) then use it to prior it down, i clamped the fork to the yoke and applied the jack between the top and bottom yoke to apply pressure, u could say that the jack method was more than an extra hand's worth of work worth doing :)
There are two ways to move the bolt, one to force the upper part of the tube to the one on the boot - the other over a wide part - so the bolt is depressed - the other does not move because the spring presses it. The second variant is easier and You do not buy the original and expensive tool. You go and buy a stud and two nuts, one of the longer - the length is 4cm (1'5.8) at the other end screw two nuts and with the help of the key you develop. I had a stud and I did what I said, but it turned out that I can not add a photo in the comment-I hope I have correctly explained that a guge has correctly translated ...
Of all the bits you did, the most important bit was how to remove that bloody clip at the top! Is there nobody on the planet that's going to share how to get it out!!!
I did the same on my XV535 th-cam.com/video/ySQrYMK-KOk/w-d-xo.html and used a drift to drive the bucket down to allow access to the circlip and the a puller to then get the bucket out as it was so corroded in. Quite easy that was.
Thanks for the vid! I just picked up a 535 that has been sitting since 2013. Your video helped a lot as I'm getting ready to rebuild the forks !
Awesome glad it helped
Thanks for that. Was trying to find out what fork oil to use so thanks for pointing out where it was in the manual!
Thanks a lot mate, I've only worked on Harley forks (Showa) and some custom ones so this helped a lot despite having the same manual as you.
Everything in my son's recently purchased 535 had been in place since the factory for 32 years so they were so stuck I broke a Bacho tool trying to loosen the nightmare bottom bolt 😮 but a regular rounded broomstick was enough to hold it in place after I got it loose.
Thanks and greetings from Finland, Henkka from Brüdern MC
Thanks brother much appreciated. Glad it could help a fellow rider. Respect brother
Thanks for the help. The little clip at the top was a bummer to get out, then I used a sash clamp (cramp) and compressed the forks. This allowed me to concentrate on the clip. The added advantage of the clamp was that when you slowly unscrew to take it off, it controls the spacer and stopped it firing across the room or into your face, as seen in another video on here,
been nice to see how you dismantled the forks.
Thank you very much for your helpful video.
Nice one, is good to see a fellow biker with the same nickname (Doc), and the same bike (1995xv535s) need to just change the fork oil in mine. Not been changed for over 25 years.
Thanks doc... wow think it needed changing bud..
Love your methods and seeing you do this just made me come.up with other alternate ways as i didnt have your wizard tools 😂 good video dude.. just saved me time and money
Thanks just trying to help..
Great video thanks!! I'm getting ready to do mine soon
A great video, thank you.
P.s. if ur doing the nightmare of the top circlip and by chance have an audi tt jack (or small, similar to it) then use it to prior it down, i clamped the fork to the yoke and applied the jack between the top and bottom yoke to apply pressure, u could say that the jack method was more than an extra hand's worth of work worth doing :)
Keep it up n mind for next time
thanks for the video. but the most important part (disassembly) you didn't record :( I guess i'll have to try it out myself
Others have shown a special tool made from a bolt to hold a socket on the nut at bottom inside the fork for disassembly.
Yeh there are different tools you can use, most are expensive
I love the accent, I have one just like yours
Good job mate. Going to do my 750 when the seals come in. Mine leaking on the same side as yours.
Glad it helps..
Hi there good video but can you tell me where you jacked the bike up from. Thanks.
I jacked it up under the front section on a block of wood.
@@docsworld9707 Thanks for the reply, the 535 is a bit annoying to get off the ground.
@@aidanleonard9085 yeh it is. If you have a beam or joist hover head u could rope it up with the handlebars..
@@docsworld9707 unfortunately I have to make do with the great outdoors, not even a dodgy old shed!
I love the accent, I have one just like it.
I appreciate the video !
Hoped it helped
good day, a query to remove the plug from above, I see that it has a sure what is the correct way to remove the plug that part is not in the video
Luis Corcelles the cover plug just prys off.
There are two ways to move the bolt, one to force the upper part of the tube to the one on the boot - the other over a wide part - so the bolt is depressed - the other does not move because the spring presses it. The second variant is easier and You do not buy the original and expensive tool. You go and buy a stud and two nuts, one of the longer - the length is 4cm (1'5.8) at the other end screw two nuts and with the help of the key you develop.
I had a stud and I did what I said, but it turned out that I can not add a photo in the comment-I hope I have correctly explained that a guge has correctly translated ...
i just used my snapon impact. zipped it right out.
Great video! But, how did you remove the upper seal? Thank you!
Thanks bud. The upper cap is held in with a circlip once it's out the cap is pushed out by the internal spring
@@docsworld9707 Thank you very much!! take care!
it's all the same work with Virago 125 (1998) ?
Cherry Owner hi as far as I am aware it is
What size PVC pipe to get in there?
40mm I think.
@@docsworld9707 ok thanks! Do you think it's the same size for 1997 virago 750 forks?
@@Thumperwrestler it coyod be. Check on Google to make sure
you left out the most important part. disassembly !
was very easy.
Of all the bits you did, the most important bit was how to remove that bloody clip at the top! Is there nobody on the planet that's going to share how to get it out!!!
Toohumanoid sorry but as I stated it's a two handed job. I describe in detail how it is done.
Docs world lucky 13 I got really frustrated trying to get that clip out earlier so ignore me and my comment lol all sorted now
Toohumanoid no problem it can be a bitch . Glad you got there in the end though
a pick works.
I did the same on my XV535 th-cam.com/video/ySQrYMK-KOk/w-d-xo.html and used a drift to drive the bucket down to allow access to the circlip and the a puller to then get the bucket out as it was so corroded in. Quite easy that was.
A piece of 3/4 inch hexagon steel 30 inches long will get to that nightmare bolt in the bottom.
Awesome tip thanks bud