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Excellent! Thank you! Best video about this, most complete.video I found. One slight point. On my ML350 six-cylinder, the driver's side top front/left T12 did require me to move the AC compressor out of the way. I think on the eight-cylinder model as you showed, the engine mount bracket is longer and there is more room to do the job without moving the compressor. Next time here is how I would go, passenger no brainer, drivers side problematic. 1) On jackstands, both wheels off, both wheel well shields off. Keep the airbox in. Don't move the coolant tank. 2) With the engine still down, remove the little 10mm engine fan shield bolts, lift the serpentine belt off the top idler pully. 3) With the engine still down, remove all three AC compressor t12s - one of these is the lower left engine bracket. 4) With the engine still down, remove the three 10mm on the heat shield. 4) With the engine still down, remove the four bottom 16mm engine mount bolts. The rear driver's side nut is a bitch, I had to chain three universals to short 16. 5) Lift the engine with the floor jack. A 2*6 or 2*8 cut lumber at about a foot long. 2*4 is not tall enough 6) Use the 18mm offset spanner to remove the top engine mount bolt. 7) Ok here is important: get yourself a real deal 1/4 by 12Torx. It will be hard to find. (3/8 by 12Torx will not do.) Add 1/4 universal and get the top front engine bracket bolt 8) The other three 12T engine brackets are no prob. 9) Swap out the mount, and reverse the steps above. 10) But here is the frustration. The rear bottom 16mm, is almost impossible to get back on and tight because it is blocked by the top of the CV axle. I have a ratcheting 16mm crowfoot on order, it's the only sane way I can see to tighten that nut. Or the ML can live without it by maybe double-nutting the front stud? Cheers.
I have a 2004 ml350 and recently changed the spark plugs and I have zero mechanical experience. It was just to save money, but some jobs like this mount job is just too much work and better to have mechanic do it. I will stick to the more easy access jobs where I dont have to remove half the engine 😂. Great video.
great vid, well done. LOL reminds me of my friend when I was younger working on our cars. We were going to start a shop and it was going to be called "He holds the light, I do the work"
Great Great video. THANK YOU. I have been fixing my ML500 and your video will give me the direction and the confidence. My engine has a lot of vibration and it will rotate and shift when I hit the gas. These are very important to replace. And painful Thank you again. You make really good videos.
heh just bought one. It has a .. shake or ?movment on first step on gas every time Im suspecting it is a mount. This video gives me confididence it is not to exspensive to repair Thank you so much!
+Terry Lee We are glad that the video was helpful. If you ever need help with your vehicle let us know you can also find us on Our Official Facebook Page here: facebook.com/worldmechanicsofficialpage/?fref=ts
Excellent video. Just finished the job on my 2003 ML350. Due to shorter engine block of ML350 vs ML430, I found 1. Passenger side bracket: alternator must be removed to access the lower right bolt on the bracket. Alternator can be removed by removing 2 bolts. 2. Driver side bracket has 4 bolts instead of 5. Also the AC compressor must be removed to access the left most bolt. AC compressor can be removed by removing 3 bolts. Again, thanks for posting this video.
Great Video and nice shortcut. I was told that you need to loosen the exhaust or it could be damaged, also loosen the rear transmission bolts too. But removing the (5) E12 bolts you are able to slide the Drivers side mount out without raising the motor to high. Thank You! Mine was 2004 ML350
Good information; in case I have to change out my mounts on 1999 Mercedes ml320. Still sound, but in future they will probably need replacing. Doesn't look too difficult. Thanks for the upload.
I just did this on a 2003 ml350 and didn't even have to take the bracket out on the driver's side just remove motor mount bolts on both sides jack engine up and it comes right out
Thanks for the video, that gave me the courage to DIY this job. However, I got stuck trying to undo the forward-most bolt of the LH support bracket. There was not enough clearance to get the E12 Torx socket on due to the A/C compressor obstructing it. Do you have to loosen the other 2 bolts of the A/C compressor and move it?
At the time I did the job, I couldn't see the other A/C compressor bolts, and I didn't want to remove the serpentine belt, so I gave up on detaching the support bracket and used a straight lift instead.
Unless you show people how to remove that front bolt this video is useless it's the only difficult thing to do on the whole job and you just leave it out!
awesome bro. I need to do mine. I have 1999 ml320, should be the same. I was a bit worried about moving ac compressor. but this is so much easier. Thank :)
+Shohan Pervaze We are glad that the video was helpful. It is definitely possible to do it without remove the a/c compressor but this bolt will take you some time since it is very limited space. If you ever need help with your vehicle let us know you can also find us on Our Official Facebook Page here: facebook.com/worldmechanicsofficialpage/?fref=ts
MAKE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTER NEGATIVE TERMINAL. THE ALTERNATOR AND STARTER WIRE ON THE PASSENGER SIDE IS PRETTY CLOSE TO THE ENIGNE MOUNT OF THE PASSENGER SIDE. ALSO WHEN REINSTALLING THE PASSENGER SIDE ENGINE MOUNT, MAKE SURE THE STARTER WIRE GOES OVER THE MOUNT.
Hi, question: so the first 2 bolts on the bottom on both sides gets put on last after the 18mm bolts and metal shield? Just wanna be thorough before attempting motor mount replacement. Thanks been watching your videos for long enough I remember it as world mechanics
do bad engine mounts cause problems with shifting from park to reverse? my shifter gets jammed after turning on the car, i need to pull with force to put it into reverse
I really enjoy watching your W163 how to videos. They're very informative. I bought a 2005 ML500 that will need some mounts replaced. Not 100% sure if all need done or just transmission mount. No other symptoms other than shifter lever movement under hard acceleration. Would you recommend doing all mounts at the same time or just the ones needing replacement at the time? Also, I don't have the proper place to do them myself. What should I expect to pay a mechanic to do them for me? Thanks for all the tips!
How did you remove the screw for the engine bracket on the driver side the screw next to the AC compressor. The compressors in the way the E 12 socket won’t fit exactly how can I get that screw out?
You have to move the AC compressor To get the driver side mount out the no other way to get a round it took me 3 days to finally get it out because I moved the AC compressor
I have a 430 ML as well how did you get past the AC compressor screw that’s right above it for the engine bracket how did you get the screw out because my AC compressors in the way and my ETA 12 socket won’t fit exactly
Double check the correct side of the mounts. Be careful with wrong "front" marks! Could you believe that I got a pair of mounts recently and one of these was marked "front" at the WRONG side! A friend of mine got similar mounts where the manufacturer obviously had corrected wrong markings just scraping these "front" marks at the wrong side and stamping new marks at the the correct side. Well, to make this short, I have changed engine mounts for a long time and I know the smaller side is always the front side, for sure. So, depending on where you get your mounts, do not believe blindly on the marks. Installing it incorrectly will reduce the life span of the mounts and will put stress on the transmission mount and even on the driveshafts. Best regards!
⛐ Check out our Garage to see what tools we use and recommend:
www.amazon.com/shop/worldmechanics
⛐ Subscribe and hit the notification bell by the subscribe button for new videos: th-cam.com/channels/J9xpq0qUZevSEdBSFqO2ow.html
⛐ Our GoFundme Page: www.gofundme.com/auto-repair-guys
World Mechanics where is your shop located
Nicely done! Your video should make my job much easier tomorrow when I change out my motor mounts on my ML 320
Your videos are always good. Well explained and easy to follow. Thanks!
Excellent! Thank you! Best video about this, most complete.video I found. One slight point. On my ML350 six-cylinder, the driver's side top front/left T12 did require me to move the AC compressor out of the way. I think on the eight-cylinder model as you showed, the engine mount bracket is longer and there is more room to do the job without moving the compressor.
Next time here is how I would go, passenger no brainer, drivers side problematic.
1) On jackstands, both wheels off, both wheel well shields off. Keep the airbox in. Don't move the coolant tank.
2) With the engine still down, remove the little 10mm engine fan shield bolts, lift the serpentine belt off the top idler pully.
3) With the engine still down, remove all three AC compressor t12s - one of these is the lower left engine bracket.
4) With the engine still down, remove the three 10mm on the heat shield.
4) With the engine still down, remove the four bottom 16mm engine mount bolts. The rear driver's side nut is a bitch, I had to chain three universals to short 16.
5) Lift the engine with the floor jack. A 2*6 or 2*8 cut lumber at about a foot long. 2*4 is not tall enough
6) Use the 18mm offset spanner to remove the top engine mount bolt.
7) Ok here is important: get yourself a real deal 1/4 by 12Torx. It will be hard to find. (3/8 by 12Torx will not do.) Add 1/4 universal and get the top front engine bracket bolt
8) The other three 12T engine brackets are no prob.
9) Swap out the mount, and reverse the steps above.
10) But here is the frustration. The rear bottom 16mm, is almost impossible to get back on and tight because it is blocked by the top of the CV axle.
I have a ratcheting 16mm crowfoot on order, it's the only sane way I can see to tighten that nut. Or the ML can live without it by maybe double-nutting the front stud?
Cheers.
I have a 2004 ml350 and recently changed the spark plugs and I have zero mechanical experience. It was just to save money, but some jobs like this mount job is just too much work and better to have mechanic do it. I will stick to the more easy access jobs where I dont have to remove half the engine 😂. Great video.
No bullshit. Good stuff.
Zdrasti ! That's the same cordless drill my brother-in-law bought me for christmas, and he's Bulgarian too! :)
+Naumy Akhavan Zdrasti :) that's great :) How do you like the tool?
Great demonstration thanks!!!
Absolutely great job! I very much appreciate your work, if I could personally shake your hands I would!
great vid, well done. LOL reminds me of my friend when I was younger working on our cars. We were going to start a shop and it was going to be called "He holds the light, I do the work"
Great Great video. THANK YOU. I have been fixing my ML500 and your video will give me the direction and the confidence. My engine has a lot of vibration and it will rotate and shift when I hit the gas. These are very important to replace. And painful Thank you again.
You make really good videos.
heh just bought one. It has a .. shake or ?movment on first step on gas every time Im suspecting it is a mount. This video gives me confididence it is not to exspensive to repair Thank you so much!
Excellent job. Follow all your videos on Mercedes Benz . Possible to make video how to remove AC Compressor Pump on a 2005 Mercedes C180 Compressor ?
Great instructions. I need to change my motor mount on my ML and this video will help me a lot.
+Terry Lee We are glad that the video was helpful. If you ever need help with your vehicle let us know you can also find us on Our Official Facebook Page here: facebook.com/worldmechanicsofficialpage/?fref=ts
Thanks for the video instructions. Going to attempt it on an ML55 AMG.
My 430 ML the AC compressor is kind of in the way and the E 12 socket won’t fit exactly for the screw how did you get yours out?
Excellent video. Just finished the job on my 2003 ML350. Due to shorter engine block of ML350 vs ML430, I found
1. Passenger side bracket: alternator must be removed to access the lower right bolt on the bracket. Alternator can be removed by removing 2 bolts.
2. Driver side bracket has 4 bolts instead of 5. Also the AC compressor must be removed to access the left most bolt. AC compressor can be removed by removing 3 bolts.
Again, thanks for posting this video.
Great Video and nice shortcut. I was told that you need to loosen the exhaust or it could be damaged, also loosen the rear transmission bolts too. But removing the (5) E12 bolts you are able to slide the Drivers side mount out without raising the motor to high. Thank You! Mine was 2004 ML350
+atucompany we are glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching us. If you ever have any questions let us know!
How do you take the (5)E12 bolt off? I’m stuck trying to take the one off by the AC and the one under ti the right. Help please!
Good information; in case I have to change out my mounts on 1999 Mercedes ml320. Still sound, but in future they will probably need replacing. Doesn't look too difficult. Thanks for the upload.
Gave me the info I needed you guys are the best
I really liked the video. It was clearly presented, appreciated seeing the needed tools, and will truly guide my changing of engine mounts.
Great work, now I can plan my job with the full knowledge of what I need to do and in what order, thank you!
Excellent job guys
Good and perfect explanation
wow amazing this is very well explained thank you for all the help , you make it look so easy , keep up the great videos..
max out one side at a time...with the floor jack engine lift ,and u can clear the mount bracket..one mount at a time..
Great job! can ou list the tools needed to do this job? And an estimated time for a beginner. Thanks
I just did this on a 2003 ml350 and didn't even have to take the bracket out on the driver's side just remove motor mount bolts on both sides jack engine up and it comes right out
Wonderful work
How you get bolt out that's behind compressor yall skipped that part
Thanks for the video, that gave me the courage to DIY this job. However, I got stuck trying to undo the forward-most bolt of the LH support bracket. There was not enough clearance to get the E12 Torx socket on due to the A/C compressor obstructing it. Do you have to loosen the other 2 bolts of the A/C compressor and move it?
+DrX163 If you cannot get to it loosening the 2 a/c bolts will help. Did it work for you?
At the time I did the job, I couldn't see the other A/C compressor bolts, and I didn't want to remove the serpentine belt, so I gave up on detaching the support bracket and used a straight lift instead.
Unless you show people how to remove that front bolt this video is useless it's the only difficult thing to do on the whole job and you just leave it out!
agreed
@@WorldMechanics I am having the same issue with that front boat next to the AC compressor the E 12 socket won’t fit exactly how can I fix the issue
awesome bro. I need to do mine. I have 1999 ml320, should be the same. I was a bit worried about moving ac compressor. but this is so much easier. Thank :)
+Shohan Pervaze We are glad that the video was helpful. It is definitely possible to do it without remove the a/c compressor but this bolt will take you some time since it is very limited space. If you ever need help with your vehicle let us know you can also find us on Our Official Facebook Page here: facebook.com/worldmechanicsofficialpage/?fref=ts
MAKE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTER NEGATIVE TERMINAL. THE ALTERNATOR AND STARTER WIRE ON THE PASSENGER SIDE IS PRETTY CLOSE TO THE ENIGNE MOUNT OF THE PASSENGER SIDE. ALSO WHEN REINSTALLING THE PASSENGER SIDE ENGINE MOUNT, MAKE SURE THE STARTER WIRE GOES OVER THE MOUNT.
+Shohan Pervaze great clarification. Thank you!
Hi, question: so the first 2 bolts on the bottom on both sides gets put on last after the 18mm bolts and metal shield? Just wanna be thorough before attempting motor mount replacement. Thanks been watching your videos for long enough I remember it as world mechanics
how did you get that engine mount bolt behind the ac compressor out, i completely stripped mine
do bad engine mounts cause problems with shifting from park to reverse? my shifter gets jammed after turning on the car, i need to pull with force to put it into reverse
I really enjoy watching your W163 how to videos. They're very informative. I bought a 2005 ML500 that will need some mounts replaced. Not 100% sure if all need done or just transmission mount. No other symptoms other than shifter lever movement under hard acceleration. Would you recommend doing all mounts at the same time or just the ones needing replacement at the time? Also, I don't have the proper place to do them myself. What should I expect to pay a mechanic to do them for me? Thanks for all the tips!
Hi have exactly the same problem on hard acceleration I can feel some light movement in the gear lever.
What mount was I?
How did you remove the screw for the engine bracket on the driver side the screw next to the AC compressor. The compressors in the way the E 12 socket won’t fit exactly how can I get that screw out?
PERFECT
You have to move the AC compressor
To get the driver side mount out the no other way to get a round it took me 3 days to finally get it out because I moved the AC compressor
Great job, thank you!
Hi great video!!!!....do you have video on how to remove EGR? for 1999 ML320 & 1999 C280 V6? do they share the same platform? engine-wise? thanks
Great video ! Made my job much easier ! 2000 ML430......
+MicrochipIDSolutions We are glad that it was helpful. If you ever have any questions let us know.
I have a 430 ML as well how did you get past the AC compressor screw that’s right above it for the engine bracket how did you get the screw out because my AC compressors in the way and my ETA 12 socket won’t fit exactly
What are the torque specs for the mounts?
Amazing Video Top *
How much is the labor?
What's the labor?
How long did this process take?
oh expect to spend a lil
Double check the correct side of the mounts. Be careful with wrong "front" marks!
Could you believe that I got a pair of mounts recently and one of these was marked "front" at the WRONG side!
A friend of mine got similar mounts where the manufacturer obviously had corrected wrong markings just scraping these "front" marks at the wrong side and stamping new marks at the the correct side.
Well, to make this short, I have changed engine mounts for a long time and I know the smaller side is always the front side, for sure.
So, depending on where you get your mounts, do not believe blindly on the marks.
Installing it incorrectly will reduce the life span of the mounts and will put stress on the transmission mount and even on the driveshafts.
Best regards!
Is this the same for the ml270 too?
@@richardclynes I'm not quite sure. Probably not, since ML270 uses a very different engine than ML360 (V6) and ML420 (V8).
As you can see this looks like a PITA
this will not work on a right hand drive car you have to loosing the belt to move air conditioner pump to one side
unwire2410 yep you are correct . I tried to do it this way but air con has to be moved on a right hand drive car
Video unnecessarily long.