Yet another great helpful and informative video! I was aware there a difference in these harnesses, but I never knew what that difference was, or what years it applied to.
You saved me on this one i thought I had correct harness from foxresto but this is definitely a 91-93 plug. Edit I repositioned the black pin to correct location but looked back at cart and it did say 90 harness so just gunna send it
If you had an auto and swapped over you also have to cut the wire going to the safety neutral clutch, and ground it to pin 46. Because it sends a 5v reference and that will also fry pin 46.
This video was a great help. So just to confirm, I have an 1987 Car. I was an AOD swapped to a T-5. For me to do a MAF conversion with an A9L, I would not use the jumper on the O2 harness? I actually have done the conversion, but didn't know about the O2 harness issue. Fried my A9L. Also, what is the name of the company you use to repair ECUs? Thank you!
I am building a '49 Ford F1. I have a 5.0 EFI swap. I was given an EEC IV computer, and he said it was an A9P. However, the label is gone. Is their a way to know it's an A9P?
Yes we do remote tuning for stock computer setup and Holley efi. Send an email to me at matt@leechmotorsports.com with details about your combo and your contact info, and I will give you a call sometime to discuss options.
Your videos are very informative. I wish I knew how to tune. I'm 50 years old and a foxbody man. I need a tune done for my new 331 and it's a a9l. But I do not have any info on the built except the total. 9400.00. It's a real beast but not up to par. Do you do chips tunes and if so how would we go about doing this. I'm in georgia. But have no info on motor it's up and running and I was a Ford tech for 20 years so I know the grunt side of things, just my afr gage go completely lean after about 3 mind ofidle. Seems like a vacuum leak but nowhere to be found . Real aggressive cm a . Ported and polished Windsor jrs. On a dss block. 7 get pan and all arp head studs. Has IBT rollers.1.6 AND THIS THING HITS A LICK. I JUST PULLED THE 331 TURBO OUT AND WENT BACK NA. THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR ANY HELP
We do remote tunes all the time. Shoot an email to me at matt@leechmotorsports.com With your contact info and I will walk you through the price and what all is involved.
So what determines the year of car as far as pinout is concerned? Is it the engine harness, dash harness, or computer? I ask bc I bought an 89 4 cyl. I am converting to v8. I have the correct 89 engine harness and a9l for manual trans. The t5 is from an 86. I assume Im good to go with the 89-90 pinout?
Can I use that Ron Francis 87-93 Manual o2 harness on my 88 foxbody that was originally equipped with an AOD? I need to install an A9L but I do not want to fry my trace being that my car has AOD o2 harness
So I think my car was swapped from auto to manual who knows how long ago. When I got it it had a C3W1 in it. Swapped it out for an A9L. It still has an auto trans harness in it though and the 02 harness is pinned out for an auto but my ecu isn’t fried. The car starts and runs fine and all the voltages are fine and the codes dump just fine. I’m not sure why it’s not fried if it’s pinned out for an auto? I also checked if there was any voltage going to pin 46 with on or starting and no bolts.
What if you t-5 swapped and never changed the computer? Mine has been running for years but it seems like it's not 100%. Not my daily so I haven't dug in too deep.
Question? Recently swapping the A9P for a A9L computer to complete my T5 Swap. Is re pinning the O2 sensor is the only thing required to complete the computer Swap? Thanks!
@@LeechMotorsports not sure what you mean by clutch and neutral switch. The car is been running with the A9P. Is been giving me problems when decelerating ans engaging the clutch, it dies some times.
I have a 93 manual car with a manual O2 harness, I'm in the processes of getting my car ready to tune with a quarter horse. I pull out the computer and at some point someone has put in a C3W1 (auto) computer. When I pull the A9L base calibration into binary editor and use that for my tune will that effectively convert my computer into an A9L where I wont have to worry about hardware matching issues like this or do I need to source a real A9L and use that? Thanks!
You are correct. You can load the GUFB strategy and A9L calibration into this ecu, and it should behave as though an A9L was on the car. Then tune from there.
Thanks, this will be good to know when I start dicking around with my '82 Capri 5.0RS. I just went through bloody hell with pin46 on a '93 Aerostar 3.0. My original PCM got stuck and had no Comm so I sourced a 'rebuilt' PCM from Blue Streak that turned out to be a core in a new box with 4.8v on the 46 wire and the throttle closed. Boxed it back up and shoved it up Rock Autos ass never to buy anything again from those do-nothing crooks. The solution was to buy a used PCM off a wrecker on eBay with 75k. That's a pretty bad commentary on the auto parts business in this country when a used part is better than fukn Blue Streak or Cardone. I plugged it in just a couple of days ago, ran perfectly and my van exhibited the same symptoms as your Mustang did (ran shitty, backfire out throttle body, no power/acceleration and prior to PCM meltdown was dropping outta OD back to 3rd intermittent). I hope my rant helps somebody cause I wasted a month firing off the parts cannon and $500-$600 for nothing. Did I mention that along with my no Comm PCM I discovered that Rock Auto is a no Comm business model you should stay the fuck away from?
Hey guys i had a question , on my 91 i am looking for some new oxygen sensors,LMR has the DY605 Motorcraft for 70 bucks each or so and so do several other Mustang specialty shops however in Ford places that sell original Ford parts there is a myriad of sensors for wildly diferent prices, im not going to lie, id rather pay 30 dollars for one than 70 dollars,here s a example of one part number DY-792, F4DZ-9F472-A and this they claim is stock sensor for my car for only 22 dollars so which one is it? there's several more part numbers,all good quality stuff, no junk, do you know what the answer to this might be? thank you for your time
Hey I have an 89 gt that’s originally auto has stock ecu, harness and auto 02 harness. Currently doing a t-5 swap, can I just leave the stock auto ecu with the stock auto o2 sensor harness with out having to touch it
Yes and no. You won’t have issues with the computer frying. But without a custom tune, you won’t have the critical idle air valve control that keeps the car from wanting to stall on deceleration. But with custom tuning, either ecu can be tuned to do what you need.
So I have a3m1, having a high idle issue it stays at 1k even after messing with tps etc. And the pcm has a bad tracer, I found this out when I suspected the ecu was at fault and decided to take the cover of ecm off and found what I found. That said, the car still starts and idles and goes, but it is an 87 car with 89 engine harness, but since I had this set in an 86, I kept the 86 o2 harness and am just wondering what I did wrong and what can I do to fix it
With the A3M1 and an 89 harness, you ultimately just need to make sure the jumper is pinned like Ron Francis shows on their instructions for a Manual transmission. If that is done, there is no reason that tracer should burn out again.
So... I've been chasing this same issue for a week now with my 91. It was originally an AOD car but has a manual now. Still has the A9P ecu so I'm not sure what O2 sensor harness I should get.
@@LeechMotorsports I appreciate it my man,I thought you might know. I've seen people speak on this here on the channel. I think my computer went bad,the fuel pump keeps running. 1987 GT,5 spd,no cruise ,added mass air from Fiveolagy.A guy who sells mass air kits.6 yrs ago.Just installed it,30 psi injectors, air meter adjusted for injectors. Also added vss kit since car did not have cruise. But it's not an a9l or a9p.It had different numbers than all the popular stuff. Should I get an a9l or convert over to the holy system. All bolt on car,4.10,head ,cam,intake, car,r.r, 3 bar heads,b-cam,t.f. track heat,255 fp,full , exhaust..
Does your computer have a chip on it or just running straight off the computer with no tune? When chips are plugged into ECU that are corrupt or have lost their tune, the fuel pump will endlessly prime with key on and the car will not run. But I have seen this happen without a chip on computers that have failed.
@@LeechMotorsports No I don't have a chip,the computer was supposedly rebuilt and freshened up,lol.But it has set for 6 yrs. It was running fine,and I went to restart it and I noticed the fuel pump keeps running. I replaced the fp relay,eec relay and it continues to do the same thing.Im out here now,going to pull the computer and check it out. Correct no tune,straight off computer.
Computer is most likely needing to be repaired then. I’ve never seen a faulty relay cause this issue. When ECU relay dies, you’ll lose key on power to all sensors and the fuel pump. Fuel pump relay does and will have reference voltage to sensors like TPS but no power to pump.
It takes two incoming wires and loops them around to each other. Advice that Ron Francis support gave me was if you are unsure of what combo you have, start off by NOT installing the loop at all.
Matt - What happens if you have the proper harness for lets say an A9P and are still using the A9P ecu, but have loaded a A9L(cal) and GUFB(strat) to the ecu. Does it cause the same issue and should you swap to a manual harness or is it in the board configuration itself?
You should be fine to just keep the A9P computer AND the A9P harness. The only thing that you have to ensure is that you either have a neutral safety switch hooked up and functioning, or that you bypass the NSS with a loop. Otherwise the car will not be able to enter idle speed control mode. This will be evidenced by the iscflag always reading -1 at idle unless you push the clutch in, at which point it will show 1 and your spark and ipsibr values should start fluctuating as a way to maintain target idle.
@@LeechMotorsports Hi Matt, similar situation. Have a 91 Foxbody that was converted from AOD to T5, looks like the T5 is from an SN95 as it doesn't have an Neutral Gear Switch on the transmission top plate, or the port for one. It was running an A9P and I swapped it for an A9L and changed out the O2 Harness with the proper harness to avoid burning out the trace. Anyway, since I have no NGS on the T5 I just bypassed it with a fuse under the Dash, I take it this does not affect any sort of Under Throttle performance if the computer always senses the car is in neutral?
Correct. And here is one thing you can do to easily verify if you are good to go. Start the car up and while it’s idling, check the timing. But don’t remove the spout connector like you would when you’re actually setting the timing. If the timing is jumping around, you are good to go. If it is static, then you still have an issue.
Honestly not sure. But my gut instinct is that because the cobra X3Z was always used for stick shift applications, and the X3Z and A9L run off the same GUFB strategy, it seems likely they would suffer from the same issues.
What do you recommend I run a auto engine harness with the auto 02 harness,aswell with a a9p,and trying to put a A9L ecu in the car,do I repin the auto 02 harness,or buy a new o2 harness for manual transmission and pin it to match the 1989 auto engine harness ,can that work ??
You can repin the existing o2 harness that you have to make it work with a A9L. But it critical that it is pinned correctly or you will immediately fry the A9L. If you do not already have the A9L, I would strongly encourage you to consider just buying a moates quarterhorse and a license of binary editor instead. You can run the GUFB/A9L setup on your existing computer. But then of course you have the ability to change the tune as you see fit. No wiring changes necessary. Message us on Facebook if interested in going that route instead.
I removed my post and going to replace it I have an F-150 1991 manual transmission 5.0 l my question and also pondering any other issues and you've done said some that really pick my attention like the length that the O2 sensor wires have to be before I can bridge the second one incorrectly without it frying my ECM I am taking an A9L ECM from a stang and I am installing it on the truck now I know I'm going to have to change it to MAF and as particular as I am if it doesn't look just so as I said meaning if I don't look exactly what i think it's supposed to.... Nope and also a very important question very important an plenum... F150 would do you think that it would still work okay because I know the flow dynamics aren't as good I'm worried too damn death that if I pull the trigger and I go through all this that the truck is going to be popping and skipping and running like s h t and that A9L ECM I also saw on the back side of the ECM there is a slot to plug a chip in that is meant to buy like a performance step afterwards and upgrade it like+hp and other things????? Please man if you can give me any suggestions or input or say something to me that I may not have thought of I'm pretty smart but I'm no dad gum genius LOL small background on the truck constantly would fry the ECM ICM or rarely the coil it did this a lot I went through the harness oh my god have I went through it think I finally got that took care of but before I got it they made it a true dual exhaust no crossover pipe or anything by the way 1 02 sensor WTF lol eventually first I'll do the first half of what I wrote just now later I want to find mustang heads and intake and stuff and convert it over pretty much fully and I'll probably get a i call um a hotter cam to also pep it up more if it doesn't take me off and I find a way to kick a ride outside of it so I can start over correctly I'm kidding I'm kidding it's hard as hell to kill these engines anyways they're tuff as hell
I wouldn’t stress too much about doing the mass air swap and it it being something that can be tuned well, regardless of the intake configuration. The port you speak of on the ECU is called a J3 port. In order to apply a custom tune with these eec-IV processors, you would cut the case open a little Bit around that port and install a chip there. Moates, SCT, and Tweecer are pretty much the only chip options. But out of those, the Moates is the only one I would recommend. However, you must understand that it isn’t something that you just plug in and gain horsepower. It simply gives you a complete window into all tuning parameters of the stock computer. There are many hundreds of things that you can change. The learning curve is very steep for this setup and tuning is not for everyone. I would recommend starting by reading the write ups at efidynotuning.com. I probably spent 2-3 months reading and rereading those articles before I purchased a moates quarterhorse and learned to tune.
Holy shit this happens to my car exactly, I bought a car that was swapped from auto to 5 speed. Engine was trashed so I bought a new crate engine. Shit wouldn’t fire up whatsoever, went over timing over and over and finally i did troubleshooting and I ended up grounding my tps sensor and huala, it started. So I figured pin 46 was fried. Another way to find out is if you test the ground wire you will see 5v. Repaired my ecu myself and fixed the issue. Replaced the o2 harness as well because it was wrong
The in between year models this is a serious thing what about those same my truck is listed at 91 well the VIN number spells out 90 will and it's probably right there at the page I'm going to rewatch it again but how would you tell exactly I guess by the wires I've been under there and or go to the VIN number figure it out best you can and then close your eyes and play pin the tail on the donkey and a manner speaking God I wish your shop was close to where I live in South Carolina I will drive it up there just so you could see it and give more of a visual on what should be done... I'm a very visual learner LOL. Ur input and making me feel foolish is IS very important to sort this out. Maybe one-day I'll see the truck in a form of glory... Thanks Sir. again any input I'll soak like a sponge. Mad respect... LOL 😂. please🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏 Also God bless you for what you have shown
Yet another great helpful and informative video! I was aware there a difference in these harnesses, but I never knew what that difference was, or what years it applied to.
Thank you for Sharing your time and knowledge with us !! Really enjoy your teaching !!
Awesome Vid. Cant wait till we get started!!
Party time! You free this weekend?
You saved me on this one i thought I had correct harness from foxresto but this is definitely a 91-93 plug. Edit I repositioned the black pin to correct location but looked back at cart and it did say 90 harness so just gunna send it
Thank you, it's hard to find current info on this
Thanks for checking out what we are doing. If you ever need any help at all, shoot us a message on our Facebook or instagram pages.
If you had an auto and swapped over you also have to cut the wire going to the safety neutral clutch, and ground it to pin 46. Because it sends a 5v reference and that will also fry pin 46.
This video was a great help. So just to confirm, I have an 1987 Car. I was an AOD swapped to a T-5. For me to do a MAF conversion with an A9L, I would not use the jumper on the O2 harness? I actually have done the conversion, but didn't know about the O2 harness issue. Fried my A9L. Also, what is the name of the company you use to repair ECUs? Thank you!
I am building a '49 Ford F1. I have a 5.0 EFI swap. I was given an EEC IV computer, and he said it was an A9P. However, the label is gone. Is their a way to know it's an A9P?
Best. Content. Ever. Do you do remote tuning? Looking to buy QH for my first build..
Yes we do remote tuning for stock computer setup and Holley efi. Send an email to me at matt@leechmotorsports.com with details about your combo and your contact info, and I will give you a call sometime to discuss options.
@@LeechMotorsports perfect, thanks Matt!
Your videos are very informative. I wish I knew how to tune. I'm 50 years old and a foxbody man. I need a tune done for my new 331 and it's a a9l. But I do not have any info on the built except the total. 9400.00. It's a real beast but not up to par. Do you do chips tunes and if so how would we go about doing this. I'm in georgia. But have no info on motor it's up and running and I was a Ford tech for 20 years so I know the grunt side of things, just my afr gage go completely lean after about 3 mind ofidle. Seems like a vacuum leak but nowhere to be found . Real aggressive cm a . Ported and polished Windsor jrs. On a dss block. 7 get pan and all arp head studs. Has IBT rollers.1.6 AND THIS THING HITS A LICK. I JUST PULLED THE 331 TURBO OUT AND WENT BACK NA. THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR ANY HELP
We do remote tunes all the time. Shoot an email to me at matt@leechmotorsports.com With your contact info and I will walk you through the price and what all is involved.
So what determines the year of car as far as pinout is concerned? Is it the engine harness, dash harness, or computer? I ask bc I bought an 89 4 cyl. I am converting to v8. I have the correct 89 engine harness and a9l for manual trans. The t5 is from an 86. I assume Im good to go with the 89-90 pinout?
Awesome info. Thanks
Can I use that Ron Francis 87-93 Manual o2 harness on my 88 foxbody that was originally equipped with an AOD?
I need to install an A9L but I do not want to fry my trace being that my car has AOD o2 harness
So I think my car was swapped from auto to manual who knows how long ago. When I got it it had a C3W1 in it. Swapped it out for an A9L. It still has an auto trans harness in it though and the 02 harness is pinned out for an auto but my ecu isn’t fried. The car starts and runs fine and all the voltages are fine and the codes dump just fine. I’m not sure why it’s not fried if it’s pinned out for an auto? I also checked if there was any voltage going to pin 46 with on or starting and no bolts.
What if you t-5 swapped and never changed the computer? Mine has been running for years but it seems like it's not 100%. Not my daily so I haven't dug in too deep.
Question? Recently swapping the A9P for a A9L computer to complete my T5 Swap. Is re pinning the O2 sensor is the only thing required to complete the computer Swap? Thanks!
What are your plans on the clutch and neutral safety switches?
@@LeechMotorsports not sure what you mean by clutch and neutral switch. The car is been running with the A9P. Is been giving me problems when decelerating ans engaging the clutch, it dies some times.
Hey, shoot me an email at Matt@LeechMotorsports.com with your phone number. I can give you a call in a bit.
Leech Motorsports email send. Thanks!
I have a 93 manual car with a manual O2 harness, I'm in the processes of getting my car ready to tune with a quarter horse. I pull out the computer and at some point someone has put in a C3W1 (auto) computer.
When I pull the A9L base calibration into binary editor and use that for my tune will that effectively convert my computer into an A9L where I wont have to worry about hardware matching issues like this or do I need to source a real A9L and use that?
Thanks!
You are correct. You can load the GUFB strategy and A9L calibration into this ecu, and it should behave as though an A9L was on the car. Then tune from there.
Thanks, this will be good to know when I start dicking around with my '82 Capri 5.0RS. I just went through bloody hell with pin46 on a '93 Aerostar 3.0. My original PCM got stuck and had no Comm so I sourced a 'rebuilt' PCM from Blue Streak that turned out to be a core in a new box with 4.8v on the 46 wire and the throttle closed. Boxed it back up and shoved it up Rock Autos ass never to buy anything again from those do-nothing crooks. The solution was to buy a used PCM off a wrecker on eBay with 75k. That's a pretty bad commentary on the auto parts business in this country when a used part is better than fukn Blue Streak or Cardone. I plugged it in just a couple of days ago, ran perfectly and my van exhibited the same symptoms as your Mustang did (ran shitty, backfire out throttle body, no power/acceleration and prior to PCM meltdown was dropping outta OD back to 3rd intermittent). I hope my rant helps somebody cause I wasted a month firing off the parts cannon and $500-$600 for nothing. Did I mention that along with my no Comm PCM I discovered that Rock Auto is a no Comm business model you should stay the fuck away from?
Hey guys i had a question , on my 91 i am looking for some new oxygen sensors,LMR has the DY605 Motorcraft for 70 bucks each or so and so do several other Mustang specialty shops however in Ford places that sell original Ford parts there is a myriad of sensors for wildly diferent prices, im not going to lie, id rather pay 30 dollars for one than 70 dollars,here s a example of one part number DY-792, F4DZ-9F472-A and this they claim is stock sensor for my car for only 22 dollars so which one is it? there's several more part numbers,all good quality stuff, no junk, do you know what the answer to this might be? thank you for your time
I wouldn’t spend the money for motorcraft on this specific sensor. Just get a matched pair from the parts store. Bosch, ntk, etc
Hey I have an 89 gt that’s originally auto has stock ecu, harness and auto 02 harness. Currently doing a t-5 swap, can I just leave the stock auto ecu with the stock auto o2 sensor harness with out having to touch it
Yes and no. You won’t have issues with the computer frying. But without a custom tune, you won’t have the critical idle air valve control that keeps the car from wanting to stall on deceleration. But with custom tuning, either ecu can be tuned to do what you need.
So I have a3m1, having a high idle issue it stays at 1k even after messing with tps etc. And the pcm has a bad tracer, I found this out when I suspected the ecu was at fault and decided to take the cover of ecm off and found what I found. That said, the car still starts and idles and goes, but it is an 87 car with 89 engine harness, but since I had this set in an 86, I kept the 86 o2 harness and am just wondering what I did wrong and what can I do to fix it
With the A3M1 and an 89 harness, you ultimately just need to make sure the jumper is pinned like Ron Francis shows on their instructions for a Manual transmission. If that is done, there is no reason that tracer should burn out again.
So... I've been chasing this same issue for a week now with my 91. It was originally an AOD car but has a manual now. Still has the A9P ecu so I'm not sure what O2 sensor harness I should get.
If the ecu is for an auto, the. You need to make sure the jumper is installed in the correct spot for the auto trans.
What does GFBU stand for? Sorry for not knowing any response would be appreciated.
That’s a good question. No clue. Lol. I’m going to reach out to my contacts.
@@LeechMotorsports I appreciate it my man,I thought you might know. I've seen people speak on this here on the channel. I think my computer went bad,the fuel pump keeps running. 1987 GT,5 spd,no cruise ,added mass air from Fiveolagy.A guy who sells mass air kits.6 yrs ago.Just installed it,30 psi injectors, air meter adjusted for injectors. Also added vss kit since car did not have cruise. But it's not an a9l or a9p.It had different numbers than all the popular stuff. Should I get an a9l or convert over to the holy system. All bolt on car,4.10,head ,cam,intake, car,r.r, 3 bar heads,b-cam,t.f. track heat,255 fp,full , exhaust..
Does your computer have a chip on it or just running straight off the computer with no tune? When chips are plugged into ECU that are corrupt or have lost their tune, the fuel pump will endlessly prime with key on and the car will not run. But I have seen this happen without a chip on computers that have failed.
@@LeechMotorsports No I don't have a chip,the computer was supposedly rebuilt and freshened up,lol.But it has set for 6 yrs. It was running fine,and I went to restart it and I noticed the fuel pump keeps running. I replaced the fp relay,eec relay and it continues to do the same thing.Im out here now,going to pull the computer and check it out. Correct no tune,straight off computer.
Computer is most likely needing to be repaired then. I’ve never seen a faulty relay cause this issue. When ECU relay dies, you’ll lose key on power to all sensors and the fuel pump. Fuel pump relay does and will have reference voltage to sensors like TPS but no power to pump.
Awesome info. Really.
Thank you!
So I'm getting a new O2 sensor from LMR. So that black wire is just a loop? It's just connected to itself basically?
It takes two incoming wires and loops them around to each other. Advice that Ron Francis support gave me was if you are unsure of what combo you have, start off by NOT installing the loop at all.
Matt - What happens if you have the proper harness for lets say an A9P and are still using the A9P ecu, but have loaded a A9L(cal) and GUFB(strat) to the ecu. Does it cause the same issue and should you swap to a manual harness or is it in the board configuration itself?
You should be fine to just keep the A9P computer AND the A9P harness. The only thing that you have to ensure is that you either have a neutral safety switch hooked up and functioning, or that you bypass the NSS with a loop. Otherwise the car will not be able to enter idle speed control mode. This will be evidenced by the iscflag always reading -1 at idle unless you push the clutch in, at which point it will show 1 and your spark and ipsibr values should start fluctuating as a way to maintain target idle.
@@LeechMotorsports Hi Matt, similar situation. Have a 91 Foxbody that was converted from AOD to T5, looks like the T5 is from an SN95 as it doesn't have an Neutral Gear Switch on the transmission top plate, or the port for one. It was running an A9P and I swapped it for an A9L and changed out the O2 Harness with the proper harness to avoid burning out the trace. Anyway, since I have no NGS on the T5 I just bypassed it with a fuse under the Dash, I take it this does not affect any sort of Under Throttle performance if the computer always senses the car is in neutral?
Correct. And here is one thing you can do to easily verify if you are good to go. Start the car up and while it’s idling, check the timing. But don’t remove the spout connector like you would when you’re actually setting the timing. If the timing is jumping around, you are good to go. If it is static, then you still have an issue.
86 GT 5 speed. Converted from Speed Density to Mass Air. Do I need to check that plug? Thanks
Probably a good idea to check prior to installing the new computer.
Question. Do you know if that also pertains to the x3z ecm?
Honestly not sure. But my gut instinct is that because the cobra X3Z was always used for stick shift applications, and the X3Z and A9L run off the same GUFB strategy, it seems likely they would suffer from the same issues.
What do you recommend I run a auto engine harness with the auto 02 harness,aswell with a a9p,and trying to put a A9L ecu in the car,do I repin the auto 02 harness,or buy a new o2 harness for manual transmission and pin it to match the 1989 auto engine harness ,can that work ??
You can repin the existing o2 harness that you have to make it work with a A9L. But it critical that it is pinned correctly or you will immediately fry the A9L. If you do not already have the A9L, I would strongly encourage you to consider just buying a moates quarterhorse and a license of binary editor instead. You can run the GUFB/A9L setup on your existing computer. But then of course you have the ability to change the tune as you see fit. No wiring changes necessary. Message us on Facebook if interested in going that route instead.
@@LeechMotorsports sounds good thank you for the advice,do ya do tunes on the ecu ??
@@josecervantes5431 absolutely. Every day.
@@LeechMotorsports ok Iam a reach to ya on face book
I removed my post and going to replace it I have an F-150 1991 manual transmission 5.0 l my question and also pondering any other issues and you've done said some that really pick my attention like the length that the O2 sensor wires have to be before I can bridge the second one incorrectly without it frying my ECM I am taking an A9L ECM from a stang and I am installing it on the truck now I know I'm going to have to change it to MAF and as particular as I am if it doesn't look just so as I said meaning if I don't look exactly what i think it's supposed to.... Nope and also a very important question very important an plenum... F150 would do you think that it would still work okay because I know the flow dynamics aren't as good I'm worried too damn death that if I pull the trigger and I go through all this that the truck is going to be popping and skipping and running like s h t and that A9L ECM I also saw on the back side of the ECM there is a slot to plug a chip in that is meant to buy like a performance step afterwards and upgrade it like+hp and other things????? Please man if you can give me any suggestions or input or say something to me that I may not have thought of I'm pretty smart but I'm no dad gum genius LOL small background on the truck constantly would fry the ECM ICM or rarely the coil it did this a lot I went through the harness oh my god have I went through it think I finally got that took care of but before I got it they made it a true dual exhaust no crossover pipe or anything by the way 1 02 sensor WTF lol eventually first I'll do the first half of what I wrote just now later I want to find mustang heads and intake and stuff and convert it over pretty much fully and I'll probably get a i call um a hotter cam to also pep it up more if it doesn't take me off and I find a way to kick a ride outside of it so I can start over correctly I'm kidding I'm kidding it's hard as hell to kill these engines anyways they're tuff as hell
I wouldn’t stress too much about doing the mass air swap and it it being something that can be tuned well, regardless of the intake configuration. The port you speak of on the ECU is called a J3 port. In order to apply a custom tune with these eec-IV processors, you would cut the case open a little
Bit around that port and install a chip there. Moates, SCT, and Tweecer are pretty much the only chip options. But out of those, the Moates is the only one I would recommend. However, you must understand that it isn’t something that you just plug in and gain horsepower. It simply gives you a complete window into all tuning parameters of the stock computer. There are many hundreds of things that you can change. The learning curve is very steep for this setup and tuning is not for everyone. I would recommend starting by reading the write ups at efidynotuning.com. I probably spent 2-3 months reading and rereading those articles before I purchased a moates quarterhorse and learned to tune.
Holy shit this happens to my car exactly, I bought a car that was swapped from auto to 5 speed. Engine was trashed so I bought a new crate engine. Shit wouldn’t fire up whatsoever, went over timing over and over and finally i did troubleshooting and I ended up grounding my tps sensor and huala, it started. So I figured pin 46 was fried. Another way to find out is if you test the ground wire you will see 5v. Repaired my ecu myself and fixed the issue. Replaced the o2 harness as well because it was wrong
The in between year models this is a serious thing what about those same my truck is listed at 91 well the VIN number spells out 90 will and it's probably right there at the page I'm going to rewatch it again but how would you tell exactly I guess by the wires I've been under there and or go to the VIN number figure it out best you can and then close your eyes and play pin the tail on the donkey and a manner speaking God I wish your shop was close to where I live in South Carolina I will drive it up there just so you could see it and give more of a visual on what should be done... I'm a very visual learner LOL. Ur input and making me feel foolish is IS very important to sort this out. Maybe one-day I'll see the truck in a form of glory... Thanks Sir.
again any input I'll soak like a sponge. Mad respect... LOL 😂. please🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Also God bless you for what you have shown
What would I knew need to tune my 1990 25th anniversary GT automatic car
Shawn, please send me an email at matt@leechmotorsports.com with more info about your combo and I’ll be able to make some recommendations.