I was watching some german journalists yesterday, they were comparing a Tommy Hilfiger jacket, one from the official store, one from TK Maxx, they had a textile specialist helping them. They noticed the sewing on the TK Maxx version had worse sewing and worse fabric. It was the same model of jacket, the colour was slightly different. It's crazy, it's almost as if the company done their own fake version.
I’m American and I design clothing for babies and toddlers. The company I work for sells to discount retailers so it’s no where near the high end merchandise you’ve based your channel on but I think I can offer a unique perspective. Most of the garments designed at my job are produced in China & Bangladesh. One of the issues I run into the most is a factory taking the order but not following what’s listed in the specs or tech packs. This includes everything from the fabric quality to the garment construction & the artwork (prints, etc.). Once the order has been placed if we cancel it we won’t have those goods to sell for the upcoming season. Less goods to sell means less profit for the company so we are encouraged to do our best to approve things at each stage of production. The result is garments that are quite different from the designer’s original intention. I mention all this to say that I wouldn’t be surprised if other brands are also struggling to maintain a level of quality. So much of the work is fragmented & outsourced to other countries (as you mentioned in this video). The quality control is lost and the factories don’t care anymore. They are overbooked & the workers are underpaid. They will make excuses for why you’re not receiving what you ask for and what they agreed to produce when they took the order. It’s so frustrating but at the end of the day the company has to have something to sell to the buyers or we will lose them and the company will go under. It’s a race to bottom. 😔
Thanks for your comment! This is definitely a huge issue with production that I’ve seen happen at many brands. I think the reason why I’m especially critical of big luxury brands is for the following reasons: 1.) A big part of their marketing is the lie of perceived quality that doesn’t exist because a lot of these brands don’t use highly skilled artisans to make their clothes unless it’s a haute couture collection. (In this video there was a part where they mentioned workers who learnt from a TV on a screen were making clothes for luxury brands - so of course the quality will be bad). 2.) They constantly hike prices while simultaneously searching for cheaper labour at every turn which is usually a move to more unskilled workers making the clothes + the human rights issues with how these workers are treated. 3.) Unlike small brands who I always give a pass on quality because I know how many things can go wrong behind the scenes - conglomerates like LVMH & Kering are completely vertically integrated so they control every aspect of their production process and they own every aspect of it too which is why most of their brands are manufactured in the same places. This leaves little room for them to have excuses of bad quality because they literally run their own tailor-made manufacturing processes.
There is also a huge problem with sub-contracting. They get your order (that they know they can't fulfil on their own) and hire contractors or other manufacturers to do some of the work. Obviously, those subcontractors get paid less, the quality can't be tracked because they are on the other side of the world, and by the time it gets to you the job has already been completed and you just hope that whoever you are selling your product to won't notice any of the defects or inconsistencies. I work in a small, local manufacture in the states and still have to deal with this. Everyone is just doing everything they can to reduce the cost even if it cost them heavily half a year later, and it's frustrating.
I've been in the industry for 35+ years, working in 4 continents helping businesses improve their development and manufacture operations... I see a return to an appreciation for craftsmanship in the future, but unless emerging designers can experiment and learn basic construction skills we'll be stuck in a vicious cycle of over-production of disposable garments that nobody wants to pay full price for. Rick Owens is the best example of a designer who understands (and owns) manufacture in order to keep a tight control on quality and allow him the right environment to experiment.
@@amiraxx4801 Technology is used as a TOOL to enhance craftsmanship, but it is the individual using the technology who gets to decide what techniques to apply to get the best results...
I read that Dana Thomas book. Quite explosive and revelatory. I want to become a conscious consumer by supporting an industry that prioritizes eco-consciousness and social responsibility. Which is why I support the Made In Portugal moniker along with the country’s garment and footwear factories that are geared towards small batch production. Here are the five main areas of commitment and focus by the Portuguese government: 1) Local Production 2) Ethical Labor Practices 3) Sustainable Materials 4) Circular Economy Initiatives 5) Natural Dyeing and Low-Impact Processes But at what cost to the environment and labor market? Will migrant workers be recruited from overseas to fill demand, and at what cost to the housing requirements of average Portuguese workers? I will be keeping my eye on this space. Thank you for your good work.🙌
I was in Kadewe Berlin earlier this week and it was the very first time I could touch and see the luxury/more expensive stuff myself and I was so...suprised lets say...how mediocre or bad the quality was. It felt like in Peek and Cloppenburg no matter if it was Armani, Loewe, Ann D or Rick Owens...
This book is published in 2007, here is an update of Chinese Textile Industry today: 1) Moving towards fabric, textile, material R&D and automated production, where more profits are. 2) Outsourcing labor intense part of the manufacturing with low profit margin (sewing and assembly lines) to Vietnam and Cambodia. 3) Using Shein and Temu's design & distribution platform, big data and algorithm to keep the majority of the profit within China. 4) There are 10+ countries in Textile Industry offer much cheaper labor than China today, the fact that Chinese Textile Industry is still thriving is most certainly not because of the "low labor cost" anymore.
100% agree, I actually talk about this in the Patreon episode (full version). The chinese businessmen at the time could see where the industry was going and they very intelligently invested in R&D + factories worldwide in addition to buying up successful western brands so they can vertically integrate them. They already predicted parts of the production process would move to even cheaper labour markets like Cambodia & Vietnam (also mentioned in the book).
The only times I shop for clothes are when I want something really special or unique that stands out, like a pair of Rick Kiss heels or something in that style, otherwise I just buy from thrifts or secondhand. I kid you not, i've found so many golden pieces at just random thrifts and saved so much. I found my favorite leather jacket there (an ysl one) But again, I am a fashion geek so I usally check fabric and quality before I buy. This video really went into great detail, love to see it man. 👌
Unless sustainability is part of the company’s core values or is introducing it, they don’t and shouldn’t be talking about out sustainability. We should however keep forcing all companies to be more sustainable through govt regulations since it’s one of the most unsustainable industries. The only company that can think of that gives a crap about sustainability is Patagonia. Through it production, education efforts of sustainability as well as putting a self imposed tax to give away to any sustainability efforts. Also the fact that they will repair years old garments for you. Their customer service is beyond anything these big luxury houses will offer you. I love fashion but I don’t like the major players in the industry.
I don’t think I’m the only one that noticed the contradiction in the book where previously Valentino people rips the “made in Egypt” label because “in Europe you don’t need to demonstrate where you manufacture your products”, with the part in the book where it talks about China and says that several Italian brands produce the pieces there to then be assembled in Italy to carry the “Made In Italy” label…
I noticed this too when I initially read it. The conclusion I came to is that Valentino was playing more by the book whereas the other italian brands were illegally misrepresenting where their clothing is manufactured. (It seems as though when specific brand names are not mentioned it's because Dana didn't want to implicate the brands or because of the journalistic integrity of the information she received off record). Also, in this specific case - there is no contradiction because EU laws on labelling are very muddy so wherever clothing is made whether Egypt, China, Bangladesh etc most brands can finish the garments off in a european country and switch the labels.
@@FashionRoadman interesting, I came to the opposite conclusion because I thought in the second citation the book was describing companies making the components of a certain garment in China to then assembly it in the West while Valentino was basically committing a fraud. Tbh tho I could only briefly find about producers in Italy (where I’m from) decided to create a certification to protect and differentiate themselves from others but no strict rule about what’s allowed and what’s not. I often check labels just out of curiosity and see a whole bunch of different countries represented but I guess where the fun begins is really under that “Made in Italy” little portion.
@@OpinionatedMatt it’s a crazy world tbh, even if something is 100% made in Italy if you don’t know the origin it could still be problematic. It’s widely covered that brands used factories full of undocumented workers in Italy who are exploited and paid way less than the legal minimum wage.
@@FashionRoadman oh absolutely and it’s a phenomenon that has increased greatly in the last 20 years or so, cities like Prato right beside Florence being filled with workshops by Chinese immigrants and the working conditions there for example. In general I would say that working conditions in the West that seemed acquired rights in the West have been progressively eroded by greed at an increasingly alarming rate…
but, just because it is made in china doesn't mean textile quality needs to diminish houses these days cut WAAAYYYY to many corners. production/labour costs are already lowered. luxury companies are not only losing quality, they are capitalizing on their brand names and are also just getting greedier.
I bought a Marni x Carhartt piece i’ve bought dress shirts from them before and I’ve liked the quality but as soon as I got in the T-shirt from the Collab. It felt like sandpaper, terrible T-shirt. I still wear it, but the neckline stretches so easy and deforms
i think we have to be realistic, fashion is an industry, not just an art form. surely you want clothing made at the least cost (without compromising the quality) to get the most profit.
Japan clothing are very well designed no doubt I purchased a t shirt and the cotton was very comfortable and high quality not cheap cotton there’s a difference
Especially TJ Maxx be selling name brand stuff I was shopping and I purchased a Ralph L hoodie in green pullover the price tag was $159.00 I paid $89 dollars and the stitch work was perfect no mistakes sometimes I get lucky and I was Dsq2 underwear for $20 three white in the package originally priced at $65.00 dollars they were perfect no damage
I saw a Versace t shirt very expensive $650 it was trash 100 percent cotton not even the high end cotton yes there’s a Difference there’s expensive cotton and cheap cotton it’s all about the fabrications
I was watching some german journalists yesterday, they were comparing a Tommy Hilfiger jacket, one from the official store, one from TK Maxx, they had a textile specialist helping them. They noticed the sewing on the TK Maxx version had worse sewing and worse fabric. It was the same model of jacket, the colour was slightly different. It's crazy, it's almost as if the company done their own fake version.
Where were you watching that ?
There’s a lot of talk that brands make product specifically for discount sale.
@@juancastro9747 there are quite a few shows in Germany that compare brands, stores etc, in order to educate consumers.
@@5naf6Do you mind sharing some I’ve never heard about this
Classic Outlet vs retail store tactics.
I’m American and I design clothing for babies and toddlers. The company I work for sells to discount retailers so it’s no where near the high end merchandise you’ve based your channel on but I think I can offer a unique perspective.
Most of the garments designed at my job are produced in China & Bangladesh. One of the issues I run into the most is a factory taking the order but not following what’s listed in the specs or tech packs. This includes everything from the fabric quality to the garment construction & the artwork (prints, etc.). Once the order has been placed if we cancel it we won’t have those goods to sell for the upcoming season. Less goods to sell means less profit for the company so we are encouraged to do our best to approve things at each stage of production. The result is garments that are quite different from the designer’s original intention.
I mention all this to say that I wouldn’t be surprised if other brands are also struggling to maintain a level of quality. So much of the work is fragmented & outsourced to other countries (as you mentioned in this video). The quality control is lost and the factories don’t care anymore. They are overbooked & the workers are underpaid. They will make excuses for why you’re not receiving what you ask for and what they agreed to produce when they took the order. It’s so frustrating but at the end of the day the company has to have something to sell to the buyers or we will lose them and the company will go under. It’s a race to bottom. 😔
Thanks for your comment! This is definitely a huge issue with production that I’ve seen happen at many brands. I think the reason why I’m especially critical of big luxury brands is for the following reasons:
1.) A big part of their marketing is the lie of perceived quality that doesn’t exist because a lot of these brands don’t use highly skilled artisans to make their clothes unless it’s a haute couture collection. (In this video there was a part where they mentioned workers who learnt from a TV on a screen were making clothes for luxury brands - so of course the quality will be bad).
2.) They constantly hike prices while simultaneously searching for cheaper labour at every turn which is usually a move to more unskilled workers making the clothes + the human rights issues with how these workers are treated.
3.) Unlike small brands who I always give a pass on quality because I know how many things can go wrong behind the scenes - conglomerates like LVMH & Kering are completely vertically integrated so they control every aspect of their production process and they own every aspect of it too which is why most of their brands are manufactured in the same places. This leaves little room for them to have excuses of bad quality because they literally run their own tailor-made manufacturing processes.
There is also a huge problem with sub-contracting. They get your order (that they know they can't fulfil on their own) and hire contractors or other manufacturers to do some of the work. Obviously, those subcontractors get paid less, the quality can't be tracked because they are on the other side of the world, and by the time it gets to you the job has already been completed and you just hope that whoever you are selling your product to won't notice any of the defects or inconsistencies. I work in a small, local manufacture in the states and still have to deal with this. Everyone is just doing everything they can to reduce the cost even if it cost them heavily half a year later, and it's frustrating.
I've been in the industry for 35+ years, working in 4 continents helping businesses improve their development and manufacture operations...
I see a return to an appreciation for craftsmanship in the future, but unless emerging designers can experiment and learn basic construction skills we'll be stuck in a vicious cycle of over-production of disposable garments that nobody wants to pay full price for.
Rick Owens is the best example of a designer who understands (and owns) manufacture in order to keep a tight control on quality and allow him the right environment to experiment.
ChatGPT
How can there be an appreciation for craftsmanship be maintained in the future if we adopt more technological clothing production processes?
@@amiraxx4801 It takes craftsmanship to utilise technology correctly. Plus you'd still have to blend traditional with modern techniques somewhat
@@amiraxx4801 Technology is used as a TOOL to enhance craftsmanship, but it is the individual using the technology who gets to decide what techniques to apply to get the best results...
I read that Dana Thomas book. Quite explosive and revelatory. I want to become a conscious consumer by supporting an industry that prioritizes eco-consciousness and social responsibility. Which is why I support the Made In Portugal moniker along with the country’s garment and footwear factories that are geared towards small batch production. Here are the five main areas of commitment and focus by the Portuguese government:
1) Local Production
2) Ethical Labor Practices
3) Sustainable Materials
4) Circular Economy Initiatives
5) Natural Dyeing and Low-Impact Processes
But at what cost to the environment and labor market? Will migrant workers be recruited from overseas to fill demand, and at what cost to the housing requirements of average Portuguese workers? I will be keeping my eye on this space. Thank you for your good work.🙌
Not Temu being the advert below this post 😂
lool
This series is SO good!!! 🙌🙌❤️❤️
💯 even at average stores, shopping is Paris is much better than the USA!
I was in Kadewe Berlin earlier this week and it was the very first time I could touch and see the luxury/more expensive stuff myself and I was so...suprised lets say...how mediocre or bad the quality was. It felt like in Peek and Cloppenburg no matter if it was Armani, Loewe, Ann D or Rick Owens...
This book is published in 2007, here is an update of Chinese Textile Industry today: 1) Moving towards fabric, textile, material R&D and automated production, where more profits are. 2) Outsourcing labor intense part of the manufacturing with low profit margin (sewing and assembly lines) to Vietnam and Cambodia. 3) Using Shein and Temu's design & distribution platform, big data and algorithm to keep the majority of the profit within China. 4) There are 10+ countries in Textile Industry offer much cheaper labor than China today, the fact that Chinese Textile Industry is still thriving is most certainly not because of the "low labor cost" anymore.
100% agree, I actually talk about this in the Patreon episode (full version). The chinese businessmen at the time could see where the industry was going and they very intelligently invested in R&D + factories worldwide in addition to buying up successful western brands so they can vertically integrate them. They already predicted parts of the production process would move to even cheaper labour markets like Cambodia & Vietnam (also mentioned in the book).
The only times I shop for clothes are when I want something really special or unique that stands out, like a pair of Rick Kiss heels or something in that style, otherwise I just buy from thrifts or secondhand.
I kid you not, i've found so many golden pieces at just random thrifts and saved so much. I found my favorite leather jacket there (an ysl one)
But again, I am a fashion geek so I usally check fabric and quality before I buy.
This video really went into great detail, love to see it man. 👌
Unless sustainability is part of the company’s core values or is introducing it, they don’t and shouldn’t be talking about out sustainability. We should however keep forcing all companies to be more sustainable through govt regulations since it’s one of the most unsustainable industries. The only company that can think of that gives a crap about sustainability is Patagonia. Through it production, education efforts of sustainability as well as putting a self imposed tax to give away to any sustainability efforts. Also the fact that they will repair years old garments for you. Their customer service is beyond anything these big luxury houses will offer you. I love fashion but I don’t like the major players in the industry.
u have such an insight on any fashion topic love ur channel honestlh
ANOTHER ONE THANK YOUU 😤🙂↕️
I don’t think I’m the only one that noticed the contradiction in the book where previously Valentino people rips the “made in Egypt” label because “in Europe you don’t need to demonstrate where you manufacture your products”, with the part in the book where it talks about China and says that several Italian brands produce the pieces there to then be assembled in Italy to carry the “Made In Italy” label…
I noticed this too when I initially read it. The conclusion I came to is that Valentino was playing more by the book whereas the other italian brands were illegally misrepresenting where their clothing is manufactured. (It seems as though when specific brand names are not mentioned it's because Dana didn't want to implicate the brands or because of the journalistic integrity of the information she received off record). Also, in this specific case - there is no contradiction because EU laws on labelling are very muddy so wherever clothing is made whether Egypt, China, Bangladesh etc most brands can finish the garments off in a european country and switch the labels.
@@FashionRoadman interesting, I came to the opposite conclusion because I thought in the second citation the book was describing companies making the components of a certain garment in China to then assembly it in the West while Valentino was basically committing a fraud. Tbh tho I could only briefly find about producers in Italy (where I’m from) decided to create a certification to protect and differentiate themselves from others but no strict rule about what’s allowed and what’s not. I often check labels just out of curiosity and see a whole bunch of different countries represented but I guess where the fun begins is really under that “Made in Italy” little portion.
@@OpinionatedMatt it’s a crazy world tbh, even if something is 100% made in Italy if you don’t know the origin it could still be problematic. It’s widely covered that brands used factories full of undocumented workers in Italy who are exploited and paid way less than the legal minimum wage.
@@FashionRoadman oh absolutely and it’s a phenomenon that has increased greatly in the last 20 years or so, cities like Prato right beside Florence being filled with workshops by Chinese immigrants and the working conditions there for example. In general I would say that working conditions in the West that seemed acquired rights in the West have been progressively eroded by greed at an increasingly alarming rate…
I have this book and I plan to continue reading it this summer
Love this topic! 🫡
Really insightful, thank you.
but, just because it is made in china doesn't mean textile quality needs to diminish houses these days cut WAAAYYYY to many corners. production/labour costs are already lowered. luxury companies are not only losing quality, they are capitalizing on their brand names and are also just getting greedier.
I bought a Marni x Carhartt piece i’ve bought dress shirts from them before and I’ve liked the quality but as soon as I got in the T-shirt from the Collab. It felt like sandpaper, terrible T-shirt. I still wear it, but the neckline stretches so easy and deforms
The most disturbing part of this video was learning that Valentino had been operating at a loss for years until they started to produce offshore.
Fashion quality is becoming a farce.
Then make it to YOOX.
i think we have to be realistic, fashion is an industry, not just an art form. surely you want clothing made at the least cost (without compromising the quality) to get the most profit.
The issue is, these brands compromise quality
Japan clothing are very well designed no doubt I purchased a t shirt and the cotton was very comfortable and high quality not cheap cotton there’s a difference
Finally not a live stream video
Cotton on Hong Kong is boss😮.But in South Africa,it is so tacky😂
Especially TJ Maxx be selling name brand stuff I was shopping and I purchased a Ralph L hoodie in green pullover the price tag was $159.00 I paid $89 dollars and the stitch work was perfect no mistakes sometimes I get lucky and I was Dsq2 underwear for $20 three white in the package originally priced at $65.00 dollars they were perfect no damage
I saw a Versace t shirt very expensive $650 it was trash 100 percent cotton not even the high end cotton yes there’s a Difference there’s expensive cotton and cheap cotton it’s all about the fabrications
Dont get me started on Ralph.
1:12 read me a bedtime story bb
Just stick to Boohoo man