added this vid to my favs! istant game changer for me. Been killing myslef in the garage trying to get this to work right for me. Timing has been off and the hight on my flash unit has been to low cooking my ink making it brittle. I was using about 12 seconds to cure but kept burning them. I also was leaving the shirts on the board and not creating space. Thank you for taking time out to put such a good quality video out.
You can use a flash when working with water based inks but there are a few things that you will want to keep in mind. Water based inks cure in two ways. The first step is to evaporate the water component of the ink and the second step is to heat set the dye component of the ink. Because you are trying to cause rapid evaporation a forced air flash will work better than a standard flash. As long as you keep this in mind you should be fine.
If your print is larger then your flash it would be best to flash the print in sections and then touch the whole print with your finger to make sure no ink comes off.
Hi With the forced air flash dryer how long would you need to cure a water based inks & discharge inks and how far does the forced air flash dryer need to be away from the actual garment if printing on 100% Cotton or 50/50 or polyester spandex garments and also fleece garments ? Thank you for your channel very helpful for people who are starting out
+print allday thanks for asking! Great questions. Water based ink, depending on how much ink has been printed on the shirt, will need about 60-120 seconds to cure. A forced air flash keeps this around 60-90 in most cases. Always use a temp gun when you're starting a new water based print in order to measure how much time it will need. Generally when curing most garments, so long as you aren't doing crazy special effects, you'll keep the flash about 3-5 fingers away from the shirt. I've got small hands so I do 5 haha Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any other questions!!
Hi there I have 2 flash dryers and they both emit the same odor when heating, is that normal and is there something that can be done to remove that odor, is that odor harmful? Thank you,
Hey Ryan ... A friend send me a message because he has exactly this problem .... and I use your video to avoid a long explication by email :) then ...thanks again for your great videos !!! Appreciated !
After washing I don't get the classic thick plastisol look and feel, it looks more in the fabric then on top. I didn't know about the second coat of ink, is that what I'm missing?
Hi, Thanks for the video!!! Question: Is this the same with multi color printing? Would it be ok to run all the shirts, flash dry them and cure them individually afterwards? Thanks.
That depends on the exposure unit and inks being used! We often recommend the hybrid emulsion WBP for basic exposure units and it can be used with waterbased and plastisol! www.screenprinting.com/products/ryonet-wbp-water-base-plastisol-hybrid-emulsion
I been using the green galaxy pitch black ink. sometimes I see cracks like there wasn't enough ink. So I do another run and there's too much ink. I also use a flash unit but how do I know if it's cured if I don't have a temp gun? I tried stretching even tho it's water based and sometimes the print cracks even more and I see the shirt underneath.
One thing to remember is that water based lives inside the shirt as opposed to on top like plastisol. so when you stretch a shirt with WB ink, you will always see the fibers. This is not bad at all and means the stretch test doesn't apply to water based inks unless you're printing on poly with a catalyst. Do your best to get through the exact amount of ink you want on the first pass. Perfecting this will help many of your issues. Curing water based ink can be a little more difficult without a tip gun. I would recommend putting a fan next to your heating element to help blow away the water that is evaporating. This will help speed up your cure time. A temp gun can be purchased rather cheap at a local hardware store as well :)
+Ryonet thanks for the info!! Btw, I'm going to do some live screenprinting and was wondering if using the flash unit would be okay. maybe the wind can suffice as the fan?
If i have a design, say? 17inchs and my flash dryer is a 16x16 will i be able to still cure it correctly moving it around to uncured spot? just asking cuz i miss calculated a print im going to do and i only have the 16x16 flash dryer .. for now... thanks!
Jhonattan Bonilla-Ramirez you need nylon ink you can't use cotton ink cotton ink cures at higher temps nylon is lower heat curing specially for more delicate materials ... buy the right ink for the fabrics your using
what about a final cure on a 3 color print with an underbase? i know you have to dry flash every single color so it wont stick to the other frames but with the final cure will that change the amount of heat needed?
If you're printing with plastisol ink, all of the inks need to hit 320-340 degrees for a full cure. If it is water based ink, it needs to stay at this temperature for 90-120 seconds to allow the water to evaporate out. Also! You DON'T need to flash after every color. This actually provides a less soft, thicker end product, and slows down production. you can get through your jobs much faster by printing wet on wet, you just have to ensure that the artwork is created and lined up properly so that colors don't overlap. But so long as they fall right next to each other, butt to butt, then you can print wet on wet no problem. Here's a video to help :) th-cam.com/video/WuYc73z43U4/w-d-xo.html
hello ryonet...can i cure plastisol ink using a coil flash dryer? my flash dryer doesnt have a temp control...only a switch that looks like a mini circuit breaker...thanks and more power ryonet!!!
Hey there! You can cure your prints that way. We would suggest grabbing a laser temp gun, and you could use that to keep track of the temperature of your ink! For plastisol, you're looking to get it to 320 for about 20 seconds!
I had some shirts printed were lint from the shirts were rising from the prints peeling tiny spots of paint completely off, could this be because a thin layer of paint was only applied or they weren't cured correctly or both?
It sounds like you are getting what's called 'fibrillation' this is when the ink and fibers get pulled up when doing a pass or lifting the screens. Keep an eye on the mesh when printing, we don't want the mesh to ever sit on the shirt, we want it to release right as we do a pass. Try adjusting your off contact a bit higher, and play around with your squeegee pressure and angle.
@@Ryonet i actually had these shirts printed by a screenprinting company, is it possible to flattened the prints and fibers down myself with teflon paper and an iron?
Hmm.. you should be able to. If you heat press a plastisol print and use a Teflon sheet, this will flatten your print, so using an iron is the same idea :)
hey screen printer! sorry to hear that it faded. with out knowing all the details, could be a little hard to diagnose. if you want to reach out to me directly at jwells@ryonet.com i can help!
No... It will not cure unless it reaches the appropriate temp... 320 degrees F... If you don't have a flash dryer, look into speedball ink... Speedballart . com
(Sometimes) my plastosil ink comes off with strong scratches of my fingernails. What can that be due too. Im curing at 320F for 15+ secs with a flash dryer.
Vlad Pierre the entire thickness of the ink must reach 320* for the 15-20 seconds. You are only curing the outside layer of ink at that temperature for that duration
Sounds like a few things could be wrong: - Might need to print > flash > print > flash as he did in the video - Also, on the last flash go a little longer just to be safe - even hit it with a heat press on light/medium pressure and that should do - If you're using a coil flash that could be your problem - OR the flash dryer you're using isn't reaching the correct temp
I do own doner kebab machine which its burners are infrared burners. I was wondering if can turn it to flashing machine to cure plastisol and water based ink t-shirt. any ideas guys?? ryonet ????
does the t-shirt need constant heat temperature ie.320 F for certain time in seconds or minutes to cure the plastisol? I am afraid of overheating and not under-heating them. another thing would you do me a favor and give me the plastisol pantones codes(PMS) of the ultramix 7400 plastisols so i try to figure them from the local market and match them with pantone coated book colors???? thankx for your replay
so do you mean if my infrared burner transmit heat over 350, by that I have to place the T-shirt and watch its temp till it reach 320 and direct take it out without giving it chance to gain more than the 320 ? I mean not must to stay for 2 minutes under 320 to be cured ???
Ink needs to reach 320-340 degrees of direct heat in order to cure and dryers will not provide that. Plus you probably don't want to put wet ink in a dryer :)
added this vid to my favs! istant game changer for me. Been killing myslef in the garage trying to get this to work right for me. Timing has been off and the hight on my flash unit has been to low cooking my ink making it brittle. I was using about 12 seconds to cure but kept burning them. I also was leaving the shirts on the board and not creating space. Thank you for taking time out to put such a good quality video out.
TY for the tip about the top layer of ink. so far no one has mentioned that. I would have thought I was over-curring.
Question: if the shirt is not fully cured, can you flash dry the shirt again after the ink has cooled down?
You can use a flash when working with water based inks but there are a few things that you will want to keep in mind. Water based inks cure in two ways. The first step is to evaporate the water component of the ink and the second step is to heat set the dye component of the ink. Because you are trying to cause rapid evaporation a forced air flash will work better than a standard flash. As long as you keep this in mind you should be fine.
Hi Ryan, What would the difference in technique be when using a flash dryer to cure water-based inks?
Always cure them prior to printing so that the wet ink on the shirt doesn't ruin your garment.
If your print is larger then your flash it would be best to flash the print in sections and then touch the whole print with your finger to make sure no ink comes off.
Hi
With the forced air flash dryer how long would you need to cure a water based inks & discharge inks and how far does the forced air flash dryer need to be away from the actual garment if printing on 100% Cotton or 50/50 or polyester spandex garments and also fleece garments ?
Thank you for your channel very helpful for people who are starting out
+print allday thanks for asking! Great questions. Water based ink, depending on how much ink has been printed on the shirt, will need about 60-120 seconds to cure. A forced air flash keeps this around 60-90 in most cases. Always use a temp gun when you're starting a new water based print in order to measure how much time it will need. Generally when curing most garments, so long as you aren't doing crazy special effects, you'll keep the flash about 3-5 fingers away from the shirt. I've got small hands so I do 5 haha
Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any other questions!!
Thank you for the prompt reply
Hi there I have 2 flash dryers and they both emit the same odor when heating, is that normal and is there something that can be done to remove that odor, is that odor harmful? Thank you,
Hi @Tom Warden! Is the flash newer? New flashes will for sure emit a smell for the first handful of uses.
If you do the stretch test and the ink does crack do you do next? Do you put it back under heat to completely cure it?
Hey Ryan ... A friend send me a message because he has exactly this problem .... and I use your video to avoid a long explication by email :) then ...thanks again for your great videos !!! Appreciated !
Christophe Delhougne awesome, glad you found this video helpful!
After washing I don't get the classic thick plastisol look and feel, it looks more in the fabric then on top. I didn't know about the second coat of ink, is that what I'm missing?
Hi, Thanks for the video!!! Question: Is this the same with multi color printing? Would it be ok to run all the shirts, flash dry them and cure them individually afterwards? Thanks.
can you cure with a heat press?
You guys are AWESOME!!! Thank you for putting out so much valuable information. It has helped me a great deal.
Thank you!! Keep rockin it!
nice Video Ryan !
What kind of emulsion do you guys use ??
That depends on the exposure unit and inks being used! We often recommend the hybrid emulsion WBP for basic exposure units and it can be used with waterbased and plastisol! www.screenprinting.com/products/ryonet-wbp-water-base-plastisol-hybrid-emulsion
what about a knight heat press? will that work
I been using the green galaxy pitch black ink. sometimes I see cracks like there wasn't enough ink. So I do another run and there's too much ink. I also use a flash unit but how do I know if it's cured if I don't have a temp gun? I tried stretching even tho it's water based and sometimes the print cracks even more and I see the shirt underneath.
One thing to remember is that water based lives inside the shirt as opposed to on top like plastisol. so when you stretch a shirt with WB ink, you will always see the fibers. This is not bad at all and means the stretch test doesn't apply to water based inks unless you're printing on poly with a catalyst. Do your best to get through the exact amount of ink you want on the first pass. Perfecting this will help many of your issues. Curing water based ink can be a little more difficult without a tip gun. I would recommend putting a fan next to your heating element to help blow away the water that is evaporating. This will help speed up your cure time. A temp gun can be purchased rather cheap at a local hardware store as well :)
+Ryonet thanks for the info!! Btw, I'm going to do some live screenprinting and was wondering if using the flash unit would be okay. maybe the wind can suffice as the fan?
+Ryonet oh and how long would you think I need to Flash it for? I'll be purchasing a temp gun before this event.
If i have a design, say? 17inchs and my flash dryer is a 16x16 will i be able to still cure it correctly moving it around to uncured spot? just asking cuz i miss calculated a print im going to do and i only have the 16x16 flash dryer .. for now... thanks!
How many washes (on average) does this cured garmet withstand until it starts to fade off? Thank you
Thanks for the comment! If you give our success team a call at 800-314-6390 or email them at success@ryonet.com they can help you out!
can you use a flash dryer for water based inks, to flash and cure??
Yes but, be careful that the whole ink area is covered by the element and that it reaches 320º. It's a slow process but, it works well.
Ryonet can you use the flash dryer to do the full cure on 50/50 poly cotton blends as well as 100% cotton?
Yeah Buddy
What's happening when garment is smoking and burning but the ink is not?
It could be a heat sensitive fabric like rayon or nylon, but generally it can smoke for a second before it becomes a big risk.
Jhonattan Bonilla-Ramirez you need nylon ink you can't use cotton ink cotton ink cures at higher temps nylon is lower heat curing specially for more delicate materials ... buy the right ink for the fabrics your using
Are you sure it's actually burning? Its most likely the water evaporating from the ink...
what about a final cure on a 3 color print with an underbase? i know you have to dry flash every single color so it wont stick to the other frames but with the final cure will that change the amount of heat needed?
If you're printing with plastisol ink, all of the inks need to hit 320-340 degrees for a full cure. If it is water based ink, it needs to stay at this temperature for 90-120 seconds to allow the water to evaporate out. Also! You DON'T need to flash after every color. This actually provides a less soft, thicker end product, and slows down production. you can get through your jobs much faster by printing wet on wet, you just have to ensure that the artwork is created and lined up properly so that colors don't overlap. But so long as they fall right next to each other, butt to butt, then you can print wet on wet no problem. Here's a video to help :)
th-cam.com/video/WuYc73z43U4/w-d-xo.html
hello ryonet...can i cure plastisol ink using a coil flash dryer? my flash dryer doesnt have a temp control...only a switch that looks like a mini circuit breaker...thanks and more power ryonet!!!
Hey there! You can cure your prints that way. We would suggest grabbing a laser temp gun, and you could use that to keep track of the temperature of your ink! For plastisol, you're looking to get it to 320 for about 20 seconds!
Ryonet thanks for the reply sir!!! God Bless you!!!
My flash is only reaching 130c...how can i work with that temp?? Flash 20 seconds ?
Sounds like you need a new flash! Check these out... www.screenprinting.com/pages/search-results-page?q=flash+dryer
I had some shirts printed were lint from the shirts were rising from the prints peeling tiny spots of paint completely off, could this be because a thin layer of paint was only applied or they weren't cured correctly or both?
It sounds like you are getting what's called 'fibrillation' this is when the ink and fibers get pulled up when doing a pass or lifting the screens.
Keep an eye on the mesh when printing, we don't want the mesh to ever sit on the shirt, we want it to release right as we do a pass. Try adjusting your off contact a bit higher, and play around with your squeegee pressure and angle.
@@Ryonet i actually had these shirts printed by a screenprinting company, is it possible to flattened the prints and fibers down myself with teflon paper and an iron?
Hmm.. you should be able to. If you heat press a plastisol print and use a Teflon sheet, this will flatten your print, so using an iron is the same idea :)
can you use the heat press to cure
how long. and at what temperature.
Hey there! You can use a heat press to cure, definitely. Check out this video we made about it: th-cam.com/video/GiKP_9Slcp0/w-d-xo.html
I did this and then did a wash test. My color faded so much it didn’t look good at all :( any advice ?
hey screen printer! sorry to hear that it faded. with out knowing all the details, could be a little hard to diagnose. if you want to reach out to me directly at jwells@ryonet.com i can help!
@@Ryonet thank you, will shoot over an email!
hi idol, after priting, can i leave plastisol ink on shirt for a day or 2 to cure. if i dont have flash dryer! just hair dryer only. ty...
No... It will not cure unless it reaches the appropriate temp... 320 degrees F... If you don't have a flash dryer, look into speedball ink... Speedballart . com
is the Temperature 320f or 320c to cure plastisol ink
Great question! It's 320 Fahrenheit
(Sometimes) my plastosil ink comes off with strong scratches of my fingernails. What can that be due too. Im curing at 320F for 15+ secs with a flash dryer.
Vlad Pierre the entire thickness of the ink must reach 320* for the 15-20 seconds. You are only curing the outside layer of ink at that temperature for that duration
Sounds like a few things could be wrong:
- Might need to print > flash > print > flash as he did in the video
- Also, on the last flash go a little longer just to be safe - even hit it with a heat press on light/medium pressure and that should do
- If you're using a coil flash that could be your problem
- OR the flash dryer you're using isn't reaching the correct temp
Thanx.
Would like to see this technique in action.
Do the current Ryo flash dryers have coil or plate heating elements?
noveltycross1 they are infared panels(plates) =)
Hello, is that 320 degrees fahrenheit?
Yes, we do all of our temperatures in fahrenheit.
What time need to cure a t_shirt?
jesus team So far, 5 years.
I do own doner kebab machine which its burners are infrared burners.
I was wondering if can turn it to flashing machine to cure plastisol and water based ink t-shirt.
any ideas guys?? ryonet ????
If you are going to do that, get a temp gun, to make sure that you are not overheating/underheating.
does the t-shirt need constant heat temperature ie.320 F for certain time in seconds or minutes to cure the plastisol? I am afraid of overheating and not under-heating them. another thing would you do me a favor and give me the plastisol pantones codes(PMS) of the ultramix 7400 plastisols so i try to figure them from the local market and match them with pantone coated book colors????
thankx for your replay
Once it heats to 320 its cured.
so do you mean if my infrared burner transmit heat over 350, by that I have to place the T-shirt and watch its temp till it reach 320 and direct take it out without giving it chance to gain more than the 320 ? I mean not must to stay for 2 minutes under 320 to be cured ???
Why cant i just use a regular clothing dryer? thank you!!!
Ink needs to reach 320-340 degrees of direct heat in order to cure and dryers will not provide that. Plus you probably don't want to put wet ink in a dryer :)
You can cure shirts with a heat press, allthough it is not the best long term solution.
What about curing discharge inks can you use a flash dryer or a heat press