Hey grew up in the bush here, test soak a piece of sinew to see and feel how hydrated it can be, also time it. Then partially hydrate your sinew about 85-90%, then finish hydrating in the glue (you don't want to soak up too much glue in the fibers of the sinew, it may have a likelihood of wear as the bow ages, but a final soak in the glue will help with the bonding). When applying use a heavy water colour paint brush, to lay flat the sinew and work the glue. Also a ruffing technique I've seen is, a short piece of hacksaw blade with the teeth filed square, to make grooves lengthwise from nock to nock, very shallow so the sinew can line up and have a larger surface area to adhere to, BUT it was a very hard wood... *also get a stiff coamb to work sinew fibers into an even mat, before the glue soak. The glue soak should be thick but workable, maybe have watered down glue on standby to help smooth things along. GL, and nice video.
Kramer Ammons - That attitude right there, one of a humble student of all things is why I subscribed to your channel, Kramer. This is a quality lacking in many these days. All the best to you during this lockdown idiocy.
@@selahschumpelt6302 yes, partly hydrate then soak in glue, work smooth, also trying to slow dry as slow as possible until the glue sets then you can move it to a proper drying place.
Hello, to prepare the raw back of the bow it can be necessary to degrease it. With Osage Orange I had good success to scrub it with soap and warm (not boiling) water and rinse it clean. Osage contents an oily substance that makes it difficult to glue. Other non oily woods like Yew or Maple just need to be sanded and the dust wiped off with a wet cloth. Then the back is smeared with a thin coat of glue like Krames Ammons showed in the video. It's better to keep the outer year ring on the back uncut. Also bumpy knots and undulations should be left as they are - just smooth them slightly with sandpaper. Put the soft sinew over it that they are covered as thickly as the other areas of the back. The sinew bundles must overlap a little at the transitions to make a strong bond. You can put on also three or more layers of sinew and it doesn't make much difference if it's done on the same day or with several days or weeks in between. The drying time for the sinew layers can vary much depending on the air humidity and temperature. At about 20degrees Celsius normal room temperature and 60% air humidity it's enough to let it dry for two weeks. As the sinew layer feels hard and doesn't give dents after hard pressure with the thumbnail it's well enough seasoned to tiller the bow further. Finally the surface can be smoothed with sandpaper and rubbed with a finger full of glue before painting it or put on a finish with oil or fat. Have fun while making and shooting these pieces of art!
Dry sinew sucks up moisture. It's best to soak the sinew strands in water, then squeeze the surplus water out of bundles and soak them into the glue, squeeze the glued strands and apply them on the wood. While drying the before stretched sinew pulls the bow into some reflex which helps to increase the bow's performace. It reduces the set the bow takes while tillering, keeps it from breaking and adds to arrow acceleration. Some experts comb the moist strands on a board to make the fibers more parallel and make for a much more even and flat sinew surface. I have wrapped the entire length of the bow with cordage after the glued sinew jellies to press it more to the wood and press out excess glue. Good success to your project!
Christian Bowyer I haven't done it yet, but thanks for answering questions on the drying, or purging of excess water before glue, and then wrap after completely covered, but does this also help if you have one sorta soft limb (not hinge point),but simply softer..will this help with draw semitry to each limb (balance)? Am in? None? See I've got pretty far on some long bow limbs for also home made riser, and would reall hate to just hang it up, and buy some as I made the riser (ilf) ready...just want to keep it all from scratch ki a thing.. Cause it's either fiber glass and apoxy or this (sinew way)...!which is the way I'd much rather! But thought please?
Dear cavern plans, sure it is possible to make a limb stronger with a sinew layer. Just make the layer nice and equal all along the limb. You can also string the limb a little backwards while you put sinew on and as it drys it will keep more reflex. There are plenty of tutorials for this kind of work on TH-cam. Follow those who show a good result with a nice reflex on the unstrung bow. Good success to your three piece longbow! By the way I've never seen anybody to put sinew backed limbs on an ilf riser. Cool idea!
Right on! Guys I have made a 15" riser from oak, it's beefy! And laminated capable of ilf, now I know this from studying the dimensions and I also bout 2 months ago bought a 68" by samick(ilf), but no string! No arrows! I've never actually shot one before, but I know I will love it, and reach proficient quickly. The point of my backwards approach is that I needed a winter project, and always had in mind to purchase long bow ilf limbs later, keep the samick it's own recurve set up, Then have both....☺ yeah, So these limbs I'm gonna give this advice a try. Thank you!
Kramer Ammons cool! Yeah I really hope this works! Don't wanta put boiling water to it, though that would clean the hell outta any waxi residual or oil, but I think I will use acetone to prep? Hey I haven't done it yet! So if anyone on here would strongly warn AGAINST that? feel free to let me know!🙂the boiling water might make it remember it's old shape.
Best glue for sinew is Fish Bladder glue! You must cook a bladder so long ,bladder turn a sticky ,thick cream! Later you can add water to change density.After glue set will be water proof,very flexible!
I agree with the previous comment. Also, use a bit more sinew and layer it so as it cures and sucks in on itself you still have the entire back of the bow covered.
I use warm knox gelatin to glue sinew, wet it, apply and smooth it out, and you need to do multiple layers to fill in voids where it contracts. after you finished applying 2-3 layers than wrap the ends . keep up the videos
Rip the sinew finer, soak it in water, and comb it to straighten it. Also score the back of the bow with a fine tooth saw.That's what works the best for me.
I also use home made glue though 9 out of 10 times. Went as far as saving walleye air bladders for 2 years till i had enough to make fish air bladder glue and it was way tackier than any glue i have used or seen being used.
@@kramerammonsarchery it worked very well smoothed out the sinew like glass and helped press down the sinew fibers tighter together with less glue needed. Made for a much stronger sinew bond in my oppinion.
Kramer Ammons In composites we do something called “de bulking” and what he’s telling you is basically to “de bulk” the layers. That forces the air out from in between the strands and keeps your project from ribbing like it did. Using something called peel ply to cover the surface (and hold most of the fibers in place) helps especially if you wrap the entire “layup” with an ace bandage or anything similarly elastic as that (even leg wraps for horses). Just a suggestion, applying pressure does help but takes practice and form setups to prevent fiber migration away from the back of the bow to the sides and belly.
I love the videos Remember Failure is the catalyst to greatness. Not success We tend to stop then never improving nor learning. Iv never used Hide glue from them. The sinew wasn't hydrated enough is why the glue vanished This left voids in the sinew to wood surfaces as well Iv used with success Knor pectin from any grocery store It is real hide glue just processed to food grade but its still Animal based hide colognes. I like it because you can control the thickness. Sinew must be applied heated verging on almost uncomfortable to handle for longer working time and helping to open the woods grain to accept the glue. Heated in the hide glue not just water. This let's them absorb the colognes not water that becomes sticky as it cools . Making a cohesive adhesive lol. I think the sinew needed more separation to the point of fine hair. Again for better glue to surface continuity. I still use the smooth river rock on flat rock method to do this. If one has local deer process shops better still Butcher shops that process cattle. Even some modern grocery stores that have a Real Butcher and still break down quarter cut cows will have some lower tendon they toss. Just call or better yet buy some steaks and You never need buy or hunt sinew. Just be ready to harvest the sinew from the lower leg and spinal collum they toss out.Then hang them like a wing chime in a dry place Best done in summer. But eventually it will become ready to use.I make traditional arrows and bows. Natives used to chew the sinew to separate and get the sinew ready but many used pine pitch as a final glue. On the arrow heads and fletching. One can make a bow string as well. Make sure to put the sinew on the bow with the sinew ends over lapping at least a quarter inch. You want it to become one continuous piece of fiber. Natural backed bows should never be exposed to water. The fat of the same animal was often used to thinly coat the bow. Today some type of spray on water proofing will help keep the bow going. As even high humidity in the summer can affect the bows performance. Looking forward to more videos.
without failure there is no succses. people that are afraid to fail, never set goals so they dont fail. what happens is they fail all the time, and just dont now it. leading them nowhere.
I'm no expert, only know what I've read, but I have heard that Knox gelatin boiled down to the consistency of syrup makes a very good hide glue. Bow should be cleaned and before applying snow it should be soaked then soaked a little in hide glue then squeezed between fingers to get rid of excess. Also, back of bow should be sized by applying a coating of hide glue before applying the soaked and squeezed senew. The whole senew should then be wrapped. Also hear that it is good to string the bow backwards before applying the senew. It helps to put more reflex into the bow. More reflex equals more stored energy in the bow which, in turn, equals more arrow speed. After the senew is dry, unstring and unwrap it then tiller the bow as you would regularly.
Should have applied glue to thw bow first and let it soak in over night. Then did your sinew backing ontop. Basically what most people end up with is a dry wood sucking up most of the glue. And you end up with a dry glue seam. I have made bows that should not therietically be possible. Due to thier short height and a long draw. And still end up with a 60 pound plains indian replica that is usuable and have never had glue line issues.
I think you may have the wrong idea about wrapping the bow. I’m no expert but I believe you need to wrap the whole bow compressing the sinew against the wood, making a mechanical bond between the two materials. You should look up clay hayes channel. Clay does a good job explaining the process.
@@kramerammonsarchery Definitely don't wrap the whole bow. Maybe put a few bands around the circumference to hold the backing down but if you sinew the entire belly all thats gonna do is add mass which is gonna slow the bow down. Imagine folding a rubber band. Thats basically what you're doing when you apply sinew to the belly of a bow
Dude I'm having fun watching you learn as I learn lol. I'm getting ready to sinew my first bow. Hopefully it works or at least I learn something from it.
This is my personal experience with Titebond hide glue. I used it to attach fletching to my fletching with additional wraps one on each end and in the middle of each feather. I was hunting a fall morning in Texas and there was a heavy fog. Enough so that water would drip from my arrow occasionally. I looked down once and the sinew wraps on my fletching were slowly unwinding. When it got wet, the hide glue let go. Anyway, that’s just my experience.
I think you have to put a thin coat of glue on the back of the bow first, let that set and then put the sinew( hydrated and soaked with glue) on so the wood dose not soak up as much.
hey brother. check into using fish glue and sizing the back of the bow before applying sinew. think on a microscopic level. the glue has gotta penetrate the wood fiber to make a collagen matrix, part wood part collagen. im no expert but i look to trying to sinew back soon. watch some korean bow maker vids!
FOR SURE what happened is the bow soaked up some of the glue and the sinew may have contracted as well. Once I had a VERY seasoned piece of wood that i artificially dehydrated...I had to size the back (I kid you not) 3 times before being able to sinew it. Every morning when i came to check on it the bow had soaked up so much. What you are looking for is a THIN, smooth, glossy surface. If it doesnt look like that then size it again. If you think it is too thick then you can damp a rag or paper towel with very warm or hot water and run it along the length of the bow to smooth the glue and take some off.
If you haven't read the 3 issues of The Bowyers Bible get them and review them. There's a wealth of information, everything from bow design and the best profiles to arrow and hunting point manufacture.
So. I've been watching everything I can on bowmaking. I love your videos. Thank you Kramer. I'll be looking for a shatterproof bowstring, for sure. Here I y question about Sinew. All my research seems to suggest that Sinew bow 'backing' was primarily used as 'belly backing', due to the properties of Sinew to resist compression. The opinion from those bowyers goes, that the reasons that you would add Sinew to the bow back, to improve tension resistance, actually are even more effective on the belly, to resist compression. Is this true? I'm imagining, the same reason that a bow with fiberglass on back and belly, uses the wood core, similarly the Sinew on back and belly, would do a majority of the resistance work... And allow the wood to be more of a internal core. Let me know, let us know...
Generally the sinew is pounded and freyed to thinner string and layed on in thinner layers. I assume this would work and may come out nice if wrapped in parchment and gauze tilll dry
Okay, first you need to size the back of the bow with hide glue and you need to pre-soak the sinew in it (here's a good substitute that will get the traditionalists goat... Knox Gelatin.. I've been using it for years) before applying it to the back of the bow, the sinew will also cover more evenly if you use a fine tooth comb.
I'm new to your channel, catching up on old videos. I am wondering if you have tried or considered using the hide glue with the drywall tape. Is Titebond the best glue for that application? Epoxy? Hide glue? Thanks for these instructive videos. I am working with 4-H, and these are a great resource.
Hi just asking if there is a seller of sinew also for backing a bow? il be paying via paypal. Im from Philippines and trying to make one. Thanks in advance.
i been making bows for 30 + years and don't feel alone.. i make more bows u can't believe and i use American elm,, i have one bow still alive for 6 years yet,, 55 lbs , 60 inches long.. this is what i know. there is a 4% shrinkage in the tendons so at times , even if u covered your bow with deer tendon,, the gaps will appear because its suppose to do this .. you know.. hide glue and tendon is the only way i know how to build a backing for a bow. rabbit glue boiled up ,, stinks like hell .. put a sec. layer of tendon over the first one. problems solved pal richard
let me try to help fellow bowman , 1 , use true hide glue it has to be warm and thick (ONE PART GLUE ONE PART WATER ) 2 after you rough up the limbs apply the glue and let it dry , repeat the process 3 times for a period of one week 3 mix your sinew ,small ,medium ,large , in to small bundles and soak them in luck worm water for 30 minutes 4 comb the sinew flat , while still wet dip each bundle in the hot glue and remove exes glue, apply on limbs with an even pressure , the bundles should over lap as if you were building a brick wall , the whole process should be finish within 10 minutes for each limb 5 Let the bow dry in room temperature for a period of 6 months , preferably one year Good luck
I like your videos, but please, please, please stop making your bows with arrow rest/cut or what ever it is called. Its fairly modern invention none of historical bows had ever any kind of arrow rest, they were all shot from hand. Arrow rests/cuts does not have a place in primitive bows (primitive bows include all bows used only natural materials, eaven the glue should be natural, but cus they are so hard to get nowadays i personally accept modern glues, but that isn't all the way accepted by all primitive archers and bowyers, but modern desing aspects is where i draw the line, arrow cut does not have a place in a real bow)
dont be a snob. while i appreciate a purist approach, dont act like its the only way cause it isnt. this is supposed to be fun and experimental. were not making replicas here. no one likes the fun police
Talking... Talking... Talking...do it, or, do not! BUT!!!!!!!!! Stop talking n Do It! Thank you, I'll just show myself out now!! PTSD from the service is taking over.... sorry!
... I wish you’d tell us what the point of this is... it looks like crap and your bow isn’t even straight... I’m more confused after watching this video... you’re usually so good at explaining yourself... why is the bow shaped like an ‘S’? What is the purpose of this sinew? I really don’t understand.
Hey grew up in the bush here, test soak a piece of sinew to see and feel how hydrated it can be, also time it.
Then partially hydrate your sinew about 85-90%, then finish hydrating in the glue (you don't want to soak up too much glue in the fibers of the sinew, it may have a likelihood of wear as the bow ages, but a final soak in the glue will help with the bonding).
When applying use a heavy water colour paint brush, to lay flat the sinew and work the glue.
Also a ruffing technique I've seen is, a short piece of hacksaw blade with the teeth filed square, to make grooves lengthwise from nock to nock, very shallow so the sinew can line up and have a larger surface area to adhere to, BUT it was a very hard wood...
*also get a stiff coamb to work sinew fibers into an even mat, before the glue soak.
The glue soak should be thick but workable, maybe have watered down glue on standby to help smooth things along.
GL, and nice video.
Kramer Ammons - That attitude right there, one of a humble student of all things is why I subscribed to your channel, Kramer. This is a quality lacking in many these days. All the best to you during this lockdown idiocy.
So just to make sure I understand you, you want to make sure that the sinew is mostly hydrated?
@@selahschumpelt6302 yes, partly hydrate then soak in glue, work smooth, also trying to slow dry as slow as possible until the glue sets then you can move it to a proper drying place.
Hello, to prepare the raw back of the bow it can be necessary to degrease it. With Osage Orange I had good success to scrub it with soap and warm (not boiling) water and rinse it clean. Osage contents an oily substance that makes it difficult to glue. Other non oily woods like Yew or Maple just need to be sanded and the dust wiped off with a wet cloth. Then the back is smeared with a thin coat of glue like Krames Ammons showed in the video. It's better to keep the outer year ring on the back uncut. Also bumpy knots and undulations should be left as they are - just smooth them slightly with sandpaper. Put the soft sinew over it that they are covered as thickly as the other areas of the back. The sinew bundles must overlap a little at the transitions to make a strong bond. You can put on also three or more layers of sinew and it doesn't make much difference if it's done on the same day or with several days or weeks in between. The drying time for the sinew layers can vary much depending on the air humidity and temperature. At about 20degrees Celsius normal room temperature and 60% air humidity it's enough to let it dry for two weeks. As the sinew layer feels hard and doesn't give dents after hard pressure with the thumbnail it's well enough seasoned to tiller the bow further. Finally the surface can be smoothed with sandpaper and rubbed with a finger full of glue before painting it or put on a finish with oil or fat.
Have fun while making and shooting these pieces of art!
I'm always caught off guard when you say you have a problem because you seem so happy and cheerful when you say it.
Dry sinew sucks up moisture. It's best to soak the sinew strands in water, then squeeze the surplus water out of bundles and soak them into the glue, squeeze the glued strands and apply them on the wood. While drying the before stretched sinew pulls the bow into some reflex which helps to increase the bow's performace. It reduces the set the bow takes while tillering, keeps it from breaking and adds to arrow acceleration. Some experts comb the moist strands on a board to make the fibers more parallel and make for a much more even and flat sinew surface. I have wrapped the entire length of the bow with cordage after the glued sinew jellies to press it more to the wood and press out excess glue. Good success to your project!
Christian Bowyer I haven't done it yet, but thanks for answering questions on the drying, or purging of excess water before glue, and then wrap after completely covered, but does this also help if you have one sorta soft limb (not hinge point),but simply softer..will this help with draw semitry to each limb (balance)? Am in? None? See I've got pretty far on some long bow limbs for also home made riser, and would reall hate to just hang it up, and buy some as I made the riser (ilf) ready...just want to keep it all from scratch ki a thing.. Cause it's either fiber glass and apoxy or this (sinew way)...!which is the way I'd much rather! But thought please?
Dear cavern plans, sure it is possible to make a limb stronger with a sinew layer. Just make the layer nice and equal all along the limb. You can also string the limb a little backwards while you put sinew on and as it drys it will keep more reflex. There are plenty of tutorials for this kind of work on TH-cam. Follow those who show a good result with a nice reflex on the unstrung bow. Good success to your three piece longbow! By the way I've never seen anybody to put sinew backed limbs on an ilf riser. Cool idea!
Right on! Guys I have made a 15" riser from oak, it's beefy! And laminated capable of ilf, now I know this from studying the dimensions and I also bout 2 months ago bought a 68" by samick(ilf), but no string! No arrows! I've never actually shot one before, but I know I will love it, and reach proficient quickly. The point of my backwards approach is that I needed a winter project, and always had in mind to purchase long bow ilf limbs later, keep the samick it's own recurve set up, Then have both....☺ yeah, So these limbs I'm gonna give this advice a try. Thank you!
Kramer Ammons cool! Yeah I really hope this works! Don't wanta put boiling water to it, though that would clean the hell outta any waxi residual or oil, but I think I will use acetone to prep? Hey I haven't done it yet! So if anyone on here would strongly warn AGAINST that? feel free to let me know!🙂the boiling water might make it remember it's old shape.
Best glue for sinew is Fish Bladder glue! You must cook a bladder so long ,bladder turn a sticky ,thick cream! Later you can add water to change density.After glue set will be water proof,very flexible!
I agree with the previous comment. Also, use a bit more sinew and layer it so as it cures and sucks in on itself you still have the entire back of the bow covered.
I use warm knox gelatin to glue sinew, wet it, apply and smooth it out, and you need to do multiple layers to fill in voids where it contracts. after you finished applying 2-3 layers than wrap the ends . keep up the videos
Rip the sinew finer, soak it in water, and comb it to straighten it. Also score the back of the bow with a fine tooth saw.That's what works the best for me.
How long should I soak it?
Use a deer antler tine to burnish the sinew also periotically during the curing process. Or a smooth bone or a smooth river cobble.
Best comments I have seen on sinew backing a now.
I also use home made glue though 9 out of 10 times. Went as far as saving walleye air bladders for 2 years till i had enough to make fish air bladder glue and it was way tackier than any glue i have used or seen being used.
@@kramerammonsarchery it worked very well smoothed out the sinew like glass and helped press down the sinew fibers tighter together with less glue needed. Made for a much stronger sinew bond in my oppinion.
Kramer Ammons
In composites we do something called “de bulking” and what he’s telling you is basically to “de bulk” the layers. That forces the air out from in between the strands and keeps your project from ribbing like it did. Using something called peel ply to cover the surface (and hold most of the fibers in place) helps especially if you wrap the entire “layup” with an ace bandage or anything similarly elastic as that (even leg wraps for horses). Just a suggestion, applying pressure does help but takes practice and form setups to prevent fiber migration away from the back of the bow to the sides and belly.
Kramer when someone is watching: "Be bewwy bewwy quiet, we're making wabbit hunting bows."
I love the videos Remember Failure is the catalyst to greatness. Not success We tend to stop then never improving nor learning. Iv never used Hide glue from them. The sinew wasn't hydrated enough is why the glue vanished This left voids in the sinew to wood surfaces as well Iv used with success Knor pectin from any grocery store It is real hide glue just processed to food grade but its still Animal based hide colognes. I like it because you can control the thickness. Sinew must be applied heated verging on almost uncomfortable to handle for longer working time and helping to open the woods grain to accept the glue. Heated in the hide glue not just water. This let's them absorb the colognes not water that becomes sticky as it cools . Making a cohesive adhesive lol. I think the sinew needed more separation to the point of fine hair. Again for better glue to surface continuity. I still use the smooth river rock on flat rock method to do this. If one has local deer process shops better still Butcher shops that process cattle. Even some modern grocery stores that have a Real Butcher and still break down quarter cut cows will have some lower tendon they toss. Just call or better yet buy some steaks and You never need buy or hunt sinew. Just be ready to harvest the sinew from the lower leg and spinal collum they toss out.Then hang them like a wing chime in a dry place Best done in summer. But eventually it will become ready to use.I make traditional arrows and bows. Natives used to chew the sinew to separate and get the sinew ready but many used pine pitch as a final glue. On the arrow heads and fletching. One can make a bow string as well. Make sure to put the sinew on the bow with the sinew ends over lapping at least a quarter inch. You want it to become one continuous piece of fiber. Natural backed bows should never be exposed to water. The fat of the same animal was often used to thinly coat the bow. Today some type of spray on water proofing will help keep the bow going. As even high humidity in the summer can affect the bows performance. Looking forward to more videos.
without failure there is no succses. people that are afraid to fail, never set goals so they dont fail. what happens is they fail all the time, and just dont now it. leading them nowhere.
I'm no expert, only know what I've read, but I have heard that Knox gelatin boiled down to the consistency of syrup makes a very good hide glue. Bow should be cleaned and before applying snow it should be soaked then soaked a little in hide glue then squeezed between fingers to get rid of excess. Also, back of bow should be sized by applying a coating of hide glue before applying the soaked and squeezed senew. The whole senew should then be wrapped. Also hear that it is good to string the bow backwards before applying the senew. It helps to put more reflex into the bow. More reflex equals more stored energy in the bow which, in turn, equals more arrow speed. After the senew is dry, unstring and unwrap it then tiller the bow as you would regularly.
Should have applied glue to thw bow first and let it soak in over night. Then did your sinew backing ontop. Basically what most people end up with is a dry wood sucking up most of the glue. And you end up with a dry glue seam. I have made bows that should not therietically be possible. Due to thier short height and a long draw. And still end up with a 60 pound plains indian replica that is usuable and have never had glue line issues.
I think you may have the wrong idea about wrapping the bow. I’m no expert but I believe you need to wrap the whole bow compressing the sinew against the wood, making a mechanical bond between the two materials. You should look up clay hayes channel. Clay does a good job explaining the process.
@@kramerammonsarchery Definitely don't wrap the whole bow. Maybe put a few bands around the circumference to hold the backing down but if you sinew the entire belly all thats gonna do is add mass which is gonna slow the bow down. Imagine folding a rubber band. Thats basically what you're doing when you apply sinew to the belly of a bow
Dude I'm having fun watching you learn as I learn lol. I'm getting ready to sinew my first bow. Hopefully it works or at least I learn something from it.
This is my personal experience with Titebond hide glue. I used it to attach fletching to my fletching with additional wraps one on each end and in the middle of each feather. I was hunting a fall morning in Texas and there was a heavy fog. Enough so that water would drip from my arrow occasionally. I looked down once and the sinew wraps on my fletching were slowly unwinding. When it got wet, the hide glue let go. Anyway, that’s just my experience.
Get Jim Ham book:Bow and arrow of the native americans.Paul Boudreau
I think you have to put a thin coat of glue on the back of the bow first, let that set and then put the sinew( hydrated and soaked with glue) on so the wood dose not soak up as much.
hey brother. check into using fish glue and sizing the back of the bow before applying sinew. think on a microscopic level. the glue has gotta penetrate the wood fiber to make a collagen matrix, part wood part collagen. im no expert but i look to trying to sinew back soon. watch some korean bow maker vids!
FOR SURE what happened is the bow soaked up some of the glue and the sinew may have contracted as well. Once I had a VERY seasoned piece of wood that i artificially dehydrated...I had to size the back (I kid you not) 3 times before being able to sinew it. Every morning when i came to check on it the bow had soaked up so much. What you are looking for is a THIN, smooth, glossy surface. If it doesnt look like that then size it again. If you think it is too thick then you can damp a rag or paper towel with very warm or hot water and run it along the length of the bow to smooth the glue and take some off.
If you haven't read the 3 issues of The Bowyers Bible get them and review them. There's a wealth of information, everything from bow design and the best profiles to arrow and hunting point manufacture.
Dawn dish soap and water. Clean it more than once .
So. I've been watching everything I can on bowmaking. I love your videos. Thank you Kramer. I'll be looking for a shatterproof bowstring, for sure.
Here I y question about Sinew.
All my research seems to suggest that Sinew bow 'backing' was primarily used as 'belly backing', due to the properties of Sinew to resist compression.
The opinion from those bowyers goes, that the reasons that you would add Sinew to the bow back, to improve tension resistance, actually are even more effective on the belly, to resist compression.
Is this true? I'm imagining, the same reason that a bow with fiberglass on back and belly, uses the wood core, similarly the Sinew on back and belly, would do a majority of the resistance work... And allow the wood to be more of a internal core.
Let me know, let us know...
Generally the sinew is pounded and freyed to thinner string and layed on in thinner layers. I assume this would work and may come out nice if wrapped in parchment and gauze tilll dry
Use backstrap strips of sinew long ways not single strands pre wet sinew add then wrap under fiberglass
Hi god bless have a good one
Okay, first you need to size the back of the bow with hide glue and you need to pre-soak the sinew in it (here's a good substitute that will get the traditionalists goat... Knox Gelatin.. I've been using it for years) before applying it to the back of the bow, the sinew will also cover more evenly if you use a fine tooth comb.
Can you sinew back a 3 piece bow?
I'm new to your channel, catching up on old videos. I am wondering if you have tried or considered using the hide glue with the drywall tape. Is Titebond the best glue for that application? Epoxy? Hide glue? Thanks for these instructive videos. I am working with 4-H, and these are a great resource.
That's something a have heard before sure the is a video on TH-cam of someone doing just that as you mentioned using the dry wall tape.
I would like to know also
Too funny!!! New sub here and I am having a blast going back through your videos!!!
fish glue the only one to sinew - from cod bladder
Kramer did u coat the back of the bow first
You need to put a layer down so wood will absorb like when u do fibreglass n it soaks it up.
Can i sinew back in ashwood fiberglass laminated horse bow to customize
Hi just asking if there is a seller of sinew also for backing a bow? il be paying via paypal. Im from Philippines and trying to make one. Thanks in advance.
Jose Gonzalez
Tandy’s leather has sinew from time to time on their website.
Can anyone please say me which wood should I use for making a bow in south-east Asia.
Is artificial sinew any good do you still chew on it first or should I try to find the real deal
Artificial sinew is nylon i wouldnt use it. Just my two cents.
You sound a bit like you could be a character from rick and morty
matthew pluke interdemensional cable!
Add each layer of sinew when the previous layer is tacky.
The wood will soak up Alot of glue if you don't coat the back of the bow before you put the sinew on
Jr's place has good videos on rawhide and sinew backing
i been making bows for 30 + years and don't feel alone.. i make more bows u can't believe and i use American elm,, i have one bow still alive for 6 years yet,, 55 lbs , 60 inches long.. this is what i know. there is a 4% shrinkage in the tendons so at times , even if u covered your bow with deer tendon,, the gaps will appear because its suppose to do this .. you know.. hide glue and tendon is the only way i know how to build a backing for a bow. rabbit glue boiled up ,, stinks like hell .. put a sec. layer of tendon over the first one. problems solved pal richard
this is a glue bow.
You did not sized the bow !
Your music choices leave a lot to be desired.
let me try to help fellow bowman ,
1 , use true hide glue it has to be warm and thick (ONE PART GLUE ONE PART WATER )
2 after you rough up the limbs apply the glue and let it dry , repeat the process 3 times for a period of one week
3 mix your sinew ,small ,medium ,large , in to small bundles and soak them in luck worm water for 30 minutes
4 comb the sinew flat , while still wet dip each bundle in the hot glue and remove exes glue,
apply on limbs with an even pressure , the bundles should over lap as if you were building a brick wall , the whole process should be finish within 10 minutes for each limb
5 Let the bow dry in room temperature for a period of 6 months , preferably one year
Good luck
I was taught to chew it before using
music is kind of weird !!
I like your videos, but please, please, please stop making your bows with arrow rest/cut or what ever it is called. Its fairly modern invention none of historical bows had ever any kind of arrow rest, they were all shot from hand. Arrow rests/cuts does not have a place in primitive bows (primitive bows include all bows used only natural materials, eaven the glue should be natural, but cus they are so hard to get nowadays i personally accept modern glues, but that isn't all the way accepted by all primitive archers and bowyers, but modern desing aspects is where i draw the line, arrow cut does not have a place in a real bow)
dont be a snob. while i appreciate a purist approach, dont act like its the only way cause it isnt. this is supposed to be fun and experimental. were not making replicas here. no one likes the fun police
Talking... Talking... Talking...do it, or, do not!
BUT!!!!!!!!!
Stop talking n Do It!
Thank you, I'll just show myself out now!! PTSD from the service is taking over.... sorry!
... I wish you’d tell us what the point of this is... it looks like crap and your bow isn’t even straight... I’m more confused after watching this video... you’re usually so good at explaining yourself... why is the bow shaped like an ‘S’? What is the purpose of this sinew? I really don’t understand.