Hi Frank, nice video. I have the 1400 and 1000 (precursor of the 1010) for several years. I purchased the 1000 from the German rep who sold it to me as a demo. As I was a PC 630 /690 user I was concerned with the handle and pushing it. He indicated the design of the 1000 and for the 1400 was to turn the machine on and use the “always on” button. The front plunge knob should be loosened which means the machine is running and available for a plunge. Right hand goes to the top of the machine and the left on to the guide knob. Right hand is directly in line with the bit and can control the plunge and pushing it while the left uses slight pressure to keep it against the work. Complete control and no awkwardness. Try it
Two things to try, 1: add a second fence ( Festool or shop made) to contain the cut and stabilize the router. 2: set depth of plunge cut, set speed of cut, turn on and lock router in the on position, start at one end of your mortise, grip the top of the machine and palm push to full depth of cut and repeat in a drilling motion until you reach the other end of your mortise, then do a cleanup cut back and forth. The drilling action is easier on the bits and clears the chips easier ( spiral bits only, straight and shear cutters have to be cut as you were showing in your video). Hope it helps. B
Thanks Brent. Interesting idea to add a second fence - makes it like a mortising jig. And Festool has enough length on those rails to slide another one on.
@@frankvucolo6249 One more idea (not mine - I think Half Inch Shy's, but I have watched/read so much stuff on Festool recently that I can't track it) is to use one of the handles for the track guide. It sits flush on the surface when fitted to the guide rails and it provides a comfortable and stable low grip for the hand not on the trigger. Thank you for the video - it's refreshing to see someone with a lot of expertise, yet open to learning and experimenting, rather than expounding on theirs being the only way.
@@dlevi67 Thanks. I don’t have the track guide, but that sounds like a good idea, too. There are usually many ways to get something done. Open to change and figuring it out!
I've just taken delivery of a OF1400 and my biggest concern was the handle grip - after a day of use it actually feels quite natural for me, but then again I've never been much of a router user in the past. It's my experience that Festool look quite closely into their ergonomics - a few of their tools that I own have unconventional handles/grips which place the users hand over the tools centre of gravity and line of cut. I suppose this means that the user is not placing lateral/perpendicular force on the tools cutting line, allowing the tool to work more accurately, whilst giving the user an intuition of where the tool is going; something akin to aiming. Plus, there are clearly cultural differences when it comes to tool handling. Notice how German carpenters will scribe a piece of wood with a jigsaw - they hold the jigsaw around the barrel and cut from the underside of the workpiece, allowing them to slightly undercut along the line. And of course, Japanese carpenters traditionally pulled their planes towards them, whilst working on the floor, without a bench - you couldn't get more different than that! The physicality of western woodworking often looks slightly clumsy when we observe how some other cultures use far more dexterity to carry out the same task. That's not to say either is any better or worse however...
Hi Otis. Thanks for watching and for the comment. You make some great observations. I am starting to settle in on the idea that Festool’s ergonomics and engineering take into consideration a broader range of operation than traditional midsize routers did in the past. For example, track system, pattern/template routing accessories and the trammel unit. And as you point out, there is a direct correlation to how much experience you have with traditional router grips and how quickly you adapt to the horizontal grip. But either way, that adaptation should not be a boundary to considering and purchasing this router. It is a very fine tool. Now... if I could only figure out why you guys drive on the wrong side of the road 😀
It's interesting that the D handle Porter Cable you have in the back ground is the router i was using, but now I have the Festool OF1010 with the guide rail, and it's very precise, and I love the ratcheting collet as well as the awesome dust removal with vac system, I've acclimated to the handle on the festool. Good video bro
Have you tried putting your right hand on the fence or the router base itself to add low gravity pressure? You can lock the turn on button and then you can let that handle go. You basically do that with your old router as well. You don’t leave your finger on the turn on/off button. I always have one of my hand on the base to add pressure to where I need it so it doesn’t tip on me.
Hi Leslie. Thanks for watching. Appreciate the comment. She’s a complicated one, but well worth it (gee, that sounds familiar.) that primary, horizontal handle is the trigger switch and the point where you can push down to plunge. So, if you lock the trigger and move that grip to a low position, you would not be able to plunge down. You would have to lock the trigger, plunge, use the other hand to lock the plunge, then move your trigger hand to the lower position. You would be in what I think is an unsafe scenario of a locked plunge and no access to the shut off. On the Porter Cable, the power switch is on your left thumb as you hold the knob. So if you had a mishap, you could release the plunge, turn off the router and move it away to a safe point all while firmly holding the router with both hands.
Try palming the top of the router like you would a basketball. Also when you stand at the right end of the work you are making two motions, a pushing motion and a pulling motion. Instead of using the pushing motion to make the cut, make the cut pulling the router towards you and use the push stroke to return the router back to the starting position.
Alan, thanks for watching and for the feedback. Not sure about that palm grip though. Seems it would be a high, tippy hold, you would lose trigger contact and block the cooling vents. But if you or anyone has tried this, I would like to hear how it worked out.
The palm grip is what I was going to suggest as well. You will obviously cover a few vents with your hand but I'm sure it won't kill your router unless you have them covered for a long periods of time. A lot of people use the palm grip while locking the trigger.
@@Richardsumilang thanks for the feedback Richard. I’m sure you can get good results with that grip, especially if you have gotten comfortable with it. For me, however I want at least one, solid, death grip on this powerful 10Lb. tool while it’s running and quick access to kill the power. I’m probably an overly cautious whimp about stuff like this, but it kinda sounds to me like on of those “Hey, guys! Watch this!” moments that happens just before you go to the ER. :)
What if...you were to purchase another fence and have both installed - one on each side of the board? I think (other than the cost) that would be a good solution.
Have you checked your OF1400 with a centering mandrel. If you never use guide bushings there's no need, but if you do it's a good idea to check. The festool centering mandrel is a good choice. Mine wasn't centered and I had to fix it myself.
Frank, I have this OF 1400 router and if I were to do this routing operation, I'd give my base more support, routing shouldn't be this precarious, but that's the nature of it.
Thanks! I considered this stock to be wide enough. However, if you see my Mortise and Tenon video that preceded this one, I was using narrower stock and did double it up for support. But if in doubt, always go for more support.
I am new to woodworking and shopping for my first router and router table. Do you think that the Festool OF 1400 router is good for a beginner and worth the high price tag? Also what router table would you recommend for it?
Hi RM and thanks for watching. Personally I would not use the Festool OF 1400 on a router table. You could do it, but since its value is in its superb abilities as a handheld router, you would be paying for a lot of functionality that would not be realized under the table. Get yourself a good fixed base router to mount under the router table. I have a 2-1/4 Porter Cable under mine and find it plenty adequate. Then for your handheld router the 1400 is as good as it gets in a mid size. But you have to make that dollar value decision as you build your shop and figure your budget for gear. If you are considering having only one router and switching it between the router table and handheld, stop thinking that!!! You will need a dedicated table router because the idea of swapping back and forth will get old faster than a fruit fly. As for the router table, I can make no specific recommendation. Get a quality one. Price will primarily depend on lift mechanism and fence. If you have a router under the table that can make an easy “reach under” adjustment, you can do without a router table lift. I find a standard fence to be fine. But if you want a fancy micro adjust fence, expect to pay more. See my mortiser video to see how you can adjust even a crude fence with exact precision. Hope that helps. Good luck as you get into the craft!
Frank, what you did (at 11:25) by mounting the fence on the reverse side of the router is exactly what the German speaking Frank of Festool International showed in his TH-cam demo titled "The OF 1400 and Its Accessories." If Frank of Festool International thinks it's OK, then I suspect it's probably OK, too. (Of course, you may notice that German Frank never powered his OF 1400 on in that configuration.) The major downside I see of reversing the router that way is that the plunge limit stop is on the side away from the operator. When I am making dadoes and rabbets with the router, I generally make them a bit more shallow and in multiple passes to avoid overheating the bit and burning the wood. Also, after starting the router, I like to lock the ON switch in the On position and plunge down for that pass and lock the router down so that each pass is at a consistent depth. If I don't lock it down after plunging, the up-spring may want to push the router back up unless you keep constant downward pressure. That's both tiring and tends to induce drag as you move the router across the work surface. By the way, I have 4 Porter Cable routers but only a single OF 1400 Festool router. The first few times using my Festool, I thought it was really awkward. Now I will probably put all my Porter Cables for sale on Craig's List or Ebay and buy at least one an additional Festool. I absolutely LOVE it. And I'm no longer covered in chips and sawdust. Even with the Porter Cable 8931 "plunge base with dust collection port", the Porter Cable 891 2-1/2 hp dust collection is pathetic compared to the Festool. And of course, as you noted, for the 690 series, P-C's dust collection is non-existent. As Festool Sedge would say, "I hope this helps."
Thanks, Welsh Rabbit. Good comments! I guess there are just not enough hands to manage the trigger, the plunge lock and still get a happy grip. But it is easy enough to work around that and get comfortable and safe. I have a big Porter Cable under my router table with a through the handle dust port that does a great job with the chips. But I never used it handheld. I doubt it could come close to the Festool when handheld.
If right handed place right hand on the trigger stand infront of the machine start it. Plunge it. Lock the plunge and move your hand onto the knob on the guide and pull the machine toward you and walk backward.
: here it shows how to setup the router edge-guide (492636) 'pushing' the handle of the router with the left hand and holding with the right hand the 'knob' of the edge-guide. For me the perfect balance ... the perfect router.
Thanks Eric. A lot of good feedback here. That does seem to be the best approach. Just gotta get over the “hey, I’m a righty” thing. Easy enough to get over.
Frank, I've made a big uh oh! on a nearly finished piece.. I'm sick.. I've got about a 1/16th gap that runs about 2 1/2 inches... router moved while routing.. I'm going to try and fill it. I always use saw dust from a sander and yellow glue. Usually looks ok, and doesn't draw attention but is never the same color.. Would mixing dust with white(elmers) glue be better than yellow wood glue. Or something even better in your vast knowledge arsenal I should try? Thanks.
Greg. Sorry to hear. Ouch. The least conspicuous glue to use would be hide glue. You can get it in a bottle. Problem with yellow or white glue is that when you get the finish on it, the light refracts differently than it does on the wood so you get that color difference - same as when you accidentally leave a glue spot and put finish on it. They hide glue is much more friendly that way. Hide glue will shrink as it cures, though. So you would mix your dust, fill it, wait 24 hours, sand it and do it again. Or you could use a good wood filler. I like Timber Mate. Finish will take to it more like it takes to wood, so the difference in refraction is minimal. You may have to tint the filler first to get the color match. But there may be other ways to solve this one. What is the species? What are you making? Where is the flaw? Tell me more.
@@frankvucolo6249 Thank you Frank! It's a 44 inch picture frame made of flat sawn white oak.. It will have an inlay of tigerwood bordered with 1/8 of walnut.. The frame is already assembled.. I know, i know.. but I wanted the banding to run off the frame at the edges.. I've done this several times but with smaller frames.. fail today! So the gap happened along the channel.. will be between edge of banding and the frame, at least it running with the grain. At first I started to scrap it then thought maybe I can save it.. aka hide it. I will be using Rubio Monocoat pure to finish.. So not traditional oils or lacquer..
@@gregh3947 hmmm... what if you widened the whole inlay channel by 1/16 to remove the error. You could then put 1/32 stringing on either side of the banding. No one would be the wiser and everything is tight. In fact I think that was the design plan right? Yeah, that’s it, design plan. That’s the ticket, stringing could either contrast or match the banding. Holly, satinwood, rosewood, Ebony might make a good contrast. (Did I say Ebony... black dyed. Who can afford Ebony these days.)
@@frankvucolo6249 I'm gonna be honest Frank. thoughts of widening the channel gives me an ulcer thinking about it. I've never worked with a frame this long and some of the things I take for granted on smaller projects don't apply here. Like how i normally keep things from moving(G). I'm go back out there today and study some.. Afraid I'm going to do something worse chasing this error. "Why do want to hire some with experience? So they won't make stupide mistakes. How do you get experience? By making stupid mistakes."
@@gregh3947 I can understand that you want to stay in your comfort zone. Just remember that we start getting better when we push outside that comfort zone. What if you took a piece of scrap and made a channel in it that fits your banding. Next think through how you could widen that gap 1/16. Try it on the scrap. Develop your technique. Don’t worry about mistakes - it’s scrap. Do it 5 times. When I create a channel for inlay banding like that I never do it in one pass. The odds that your router bit and the banding are the same width are small. Instead I route a narrower channel on my piece and on some scrap. Then I adjust my router on the scrap until the second pass gives me exactly the width I need. Then I do the second pass on the piece. Tight fit.
I think the 1400 is a powerhouse and best used for plunge routing large work using patterns with a bushing or the like. I totally understand what you are demonstrating - but to me you're using a tool that is complete overkill for the demonstration you give. I'd use a little battery power Makita for what you're showing. Also, no mention of the rail? Use the rail - that's what it is designed for - you won't have any stability issues with the rail.
Are you seeing it? He's plunging the router with ONE HAND. Try that with any other router and it's just not comfortable, doable but clumsy. The 1400 is the smoothing plunging 2+ hp router in the world. You can plunge the 1400 with your pinky. Some people get two edge guides and put one on each side of the workpiece and then they can cut in any direction they choose. The handle is designed for use on the guide rail. That's not for mortises of course but it works well for dados and rabbits. Doesn't matter which way you go when running it on the guide.
I do a lot of work tops , due to the handle being so high I have to be very careful that it does not tip . The best way I’ve found is push with one hand on the base plate which I do not like doing . To my mind it’s a poor design in sad to say
![อยู่ได้แล้ว - LIPTA feat. Mirrr [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-9-hpntNym4/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi Frank, nice video. I have the 1400 and 1000 (precursor of the 1010) for several years. I purchased the 1000 from the German rep who sold it to me as a demo. As I was a PC 630 /690 user I was concerned with the handle and pushing it. He indicated the design of the 1000 and for the 1400 was to turn the machine on and use the “always on” button. The front plunge knob should be loosened which means the machine is running and available for a plunge. Right hand goes to the top of the machine and the left on to the guide knob. Right hand is directly in line with the bit and can control the plunge and pushing it while the left uses slight pressure to keep it against the work. Complete control and no awkwardness. Try it
Excellent presentation. Thank you.
Two things to try, 1: add a second fence ( Festool or shop made) to contain the cut and stabilize the router. 2: set depth of plunge cut, set speed of cut, turn on and lock router in the on position, start at one end of your mortise, grip the top of the machine and palm push to full depth of cut and repeat in a drilling motion until you reach the other end of your mortise, then do a cleanup cut back and forth. The drilling action is easier on the bits and clears the chips easier ( spiral bits only, straight and shear cutters have to be cut as you were showing in your video). Hope it helps. B
Thanks Brent. Interesting idea to add a second fence - makes it like a mortising jig. And Festool has enough length on those rails to slide another one on.
@@frankvucolo6249 One more idea (not mine - I think Half Inch Shy's, but I have watched/read so much stuff on Festool recently that I can't track it) is to use one of the handles for the track guide. It sits flush on the surface when fitted to the guide rails and it provides a comfortable and stable low grip for the hand not on the trigger.
Thank you for the video - it's refreshing to see someone with a lot of expertise, yet open to learning and experimenting, rather than expounding on theirs being the only way.
@@dlevi67 Thanks. I don’t have the track guide, but that sounds like a good idea, too. There are usually many ways to get something done. Open to change and figuring it out!
Perhaps you should look at the router attachment by M Power Tools called the CRB7. I love that thing.
I've just taken delivery of a OF1400 and my biggest concern was the handle grip - after a day of use it actually feels quite natural for me, but then again I've never been much of a router user in the past.
It's my experience that Festool look quite closely into their ergonomics - a few of their tools that I own have unconventional handles/grips which place the users hand over the tools centre of gravity and line of cut. I suppose this means that the user is not placing lateral/perpendicular force on the tools cutting line, allowing the tool to work more accurately, whilst giving the user an intuition of where the tool is going; something akin to aiming.
Plus, there are clearly cultural differences when it comes to tool handling. Notice how German carpenters will scribe a piece of wood with a jigsaw - they hold the jigsaw around the barrel and cut from the underside of the workpiece, allowing them to slightly undercut along the line. And of course, Japanese carpenters traditionally pulled their planes towards them, whilst working on the floor, without a bench - you couldn't get more different than that! The physicality of western woodworking often looks slightly clumsy when we observe how some other cultures use far more dexterity to carry out the same task. That's not to say either is any better or worse however...
Hi Otis. Thanks for watching and for the comment. You make some great observations. I am starting to settle in on the idea that Festool’s ergonomics and engineering take into consideration a broader range of operation than traditional midsize routers did in the past. For example, track system, pattern/template routing accessories and the trammel unit. And as you point out, there is a direct correlation to how much experience you have with traditional router grips and how quickly you adapt to the horizontal grip. But either way, that adaptation should not be a boundary to considering and purchasing this router. It is a very fine tool.
Now... if I could only figure out why you guys drive on the wrong side of the road 😀
It's interesting that the D handle Porter Cable you have in the back ground is the router i was using, but now I have the Festool OF1010 with the guide rail, and it's very precise, and I love the ratcheting collet as well as the awesome dust removal with vac system, I've acclimated to the handle on the festool. Good video bro
Walk backwards with it following you, pulling the handle like it's a rope 8:50
Have you tried putting your right hand on the fence or the router base itself to add low gravity pressure? You can lock the turn on button and then you can let that handle go. You basically do that with your old router as well. You don’t leave your finger on the turn on/off button.
I always have one of my hand on the base to add pressure to where I need it so it doesn’t tip on me.
Hi Leslie. Thanks for watching. Appreciate the comment. She’s a complicated one, but well worth it (gee, that sounds familiar.) that primary, horizontal handle is the trigger switch and the point where you can push down to plunge. So, if you lock the trigger and move that grip to a low position, you would not be able to plunge down. You would have to lock the trigger, plunge, use the other hand to lock the plunge, then move your trigger hand to the lower position. You would be in what I think is an unsafe scenario of a locked plunge and no access to the shut off. On the Porter Cable, the power switch is on your left thumb as you hold the knob. So if you had a mishap, you could release the plunge, turn off the router and move it away to a safe point all while firmly holding the router with both hands.
Try palming the top of the router like you would a basketball. Also when you stand at the right end of the work you are making two motions, a pushing motion and a pulling motion. Instead of using the pushing motion to make the cut, make the cut pulling the router towards you and use the push stroke to return the router back to the starting position.
Alan, thanks for watching and for the feedback. Not sure about that palm grip though. Seems it would be a high, tippy hold, you would lose trigger contact and block the cooling vents. But if you or anyone has tried this, I would like to hear how it worked out.
The palm grip is what I was going to suggest as well. You will obviously cover a few vents with your hand but I'm sure it won't kill your router unless you have them covered for a long periods of time. A lot of people use the palm grip while locking the trigger.
@@Richardsumilang thanks for the feedback Richard. I’m sure you can get good results with that grip, especially if you have gotten comfortable with it. For me, however I want at least one, solid, death grip on this powerful 10Lb. tool while it’s running and quick access to kill the power. I’m probably an overly cautious whimp about stuff like this, but it kinda sounds to me like on of those “Hey, guys! Watch this!” moments that happens just before you go to the ER. :)
@@frankvucolo6249 it's a solid method. Trust me I have 8 fingers left
@@Richardsumilang dang! That’s 2 more than me
What if...you were to purchase another fence and have both installed - one on each side of the board? I think (other than the cost) that would be a good solution.
Have you checked your OF1400 with a centering mandrel. If you never use guide bushings there's no need, but if you do it's a good idea to check. The festool centering mandrel is a good choice. Mine wasn't centered and I had to fix it myself.
Hi Boran. I have not. I have never used it for template routing.
Frank, I have this OF 1400 router and if I were to do this routing operation, I'd give my base more support, routing shouldn't be this precarious, but that's the nature of it.
Thanks! I considered this stock to be wide enough. However, if you see my Mortise and Tenon video that preceded this one, I was using narrower stock and did double it up for support. But if in doubt, always go for more support.
I use two fences when I do what your doing, I bought the extra fence it was a good investment
Yup. That would work too.
I am new to woodworking and shopping for my first router and router table. Do you think that the Festool OF 1400 router is good for a beginner and worth the high price tag? Also what router table would you recommend for it?
Hi RM and thanks for watching. Personally I would not use the Festool OF 1400 on a router table. You could do it, but since its value is in its superb abilities as a handheld router, you would be paying for a lot of functionality that would not be realized under the table. Get yourself a good fixed base router to mount under the router table. I have a 2-1/4 Porter Cable under mine and find it plenty adequate. Then for your handheld router the 1400 is as good as it gets in a mid size. But you have to make that dollar value decision as you build your shop and figure your budget for gear. If you are considering having only one router and switching it between the router table and handheld, stop thinking that!!! You will need a dedicated table router because the idea of swapping back and forth will get old faster than a fruit fly. As for the router table, I can make no specific recommendation. Get a quality one. Price will primarily depend on lift mechanism and fence. If you have a router under the table that can make an easy “reach under” adjustment, you can do without a router table lift. I find a standard fence to be fine. But if you want a fancy micro adjust fence, expect to pay more. See my mortiser video to see how you can adjust even a crude fence with exact precision. Hope that helps. Good luck as you get into the craft!
Frank, what you did (at 11:25) by mounting the fence on the reverse side of the router is exactly what the German speaking Frank of Festool International showed in his TH-cam demo titled "The OF 1400 and Its Accessories." If Frank of Festool International thinks it's OK, then I suspect it's probably OK, too. (Of course, you may notice that German Frank never powered his OF 1400 on in that configuration.)
The major downside I see of reversing the router that way is that the plunge limit stop is on the side away from the operator. When I am making dadoes and rabbets with the router, I generally make them a bit more shallow and in multiple passes to avoid overheating the bit and burning the wood.
Also, after starting the router, I like to lock the ON switch in the On position and plunge down for that pass and lock the router down so that each pass is at a consistent depth. If I don't lock it down after plunging, the up-spring may want to push the router back up unless you keep constant downward pressure. That's both tiring and tends to induce drag as you move the router across the work surface.
By the way, I have 4 Porter Cable routers but only a single OF 1400 Festool router. The first few times using my Festool, I thought it was really awkward. Now I will probably put all my Porter Cables for sale on Craig's List or Ebay and buy at least one an additional Festool. I absolutely LOVE it. And I'm no longer covered in chips and sawdust. Even with the Porter Cable 8931 "plunge base with dust collection port", the Porter Cable 891 2-1/2 hp dust collection is pathetic compared to the Festool. And of course, as you noted, for the 690 series, P-C's dust collection is non-existent.
As Festool Sedge would say, "I hope this helps."
Thanks, Welsh Rabbit. Good comments!
I guess there are just not enough hands to manage the trigger, the plunge lock and still get a happy grip. But it is easy enough to work around that and get comfortable and safe. I have a big Porter Cable under my router table with a through the handle dust port that does a great job with the chips. But I never used it handheld. I doubt it could come close to the Festool when handheld.
If right handed place right hand on the trigger stand infront of the machine start it. Plunge it. Lock the plunge and move your hand onto the knob on the guide and pull the machine toward you and walk backward.
:
here it shows how to setup the router edge-guide (492636) 'pushing' the handle of the router with the left hand and holding with the right hand the 'knob' of the edge-guide. For me the perfect balance ... the perfect router.
the link to the video: th-cam.com/video/CMY1Bk3-V_g/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Eric. A lot of good feedback here. That does seem to be the best approach. Just gotta get over the “hey, I’m a righty” thing. Easy enough to get over.
Frank, I've made a big uh oh! on a nearly finished piece.. I'm sick.. I've got about a 1/16th gap that runs about 2 1/2 inches... router moved while routing.. I'm going to try and fill it. I always use saw dust from a sander and yellow glue. Usually looks ok, and doesn't draw attention but is never the same color.. Would mixing dust with white(elmers) glue be better than yellow wood glue. Or something even better in your vast knowledge arsenal I should try?
Thanks.
Greg. Sorry to hear. Ouch.
The least conspicuous glue to use would be hide glue. You can get it in a bottle. Problem with yellow or white glue is that when you get the finish on it, the light refracts differently than it does on the wood so you get that color difference - same as when you accidentally leave a glue spot and put finish on it. They hide glue is much more friendly that way. Hide glue will shrink as it cures, though. So you would mix your dust, fill it, wait 24 hours, sand it and do it again. Or you could use a good wood filler. I like Timber Mate. Finish will take to it more like it takes to wood, so the difference in refraction is minimal. You may have to tint the filler first to get the color match. But there may be other ways to solve this one. What is the species? What are you making? Where is the flaw? Tell me more.
@@frankvucolo6249 Thank you Frank! It's a 44 inch picture frame made of flat sawn white oak.. It will have an inlay of tigerwood bordered with 1/8 of walnut.. The frame is already assembled.. I know, i know.. but I wanted the banding to run off the frame at the edges.. I've done this several times but with smaller frames.. fail today!
So the gap happened along the channel.. will be between edge of banding and the frame, at least it running with the grain. At first I started to scrap it then thought maybe I can save it.. aka hide it.
I will be using Rubio Monocoat pure to finish.. So not traditional oils or lacquer..
@@gregh3947 hmmm... what if you widened the whole inlay channel by 1/16 to remove the error. You could then put 1/32 stringing on either side of the banding. No one would be the wiser and everything is tight. In fact I think that was the design plan right? Yeah, that’s it, design plan. That’s the ticket, stringing could either contrast or match the banding. Holly, satinwood, rosewood, Ebony might make a good contrast. (Did I say Ebony... black dyed. Who can afford Ebony these days.)
@@frankvucolo6249 I'm gonna be honest Frank. thoughts of widening the channel gives me an ulcer thinking about it. I've never worked with a frame this long and some of the things I take for granted on smaller projects don't apply here. Like how i normally keep things from moving(G). I'm go back out there today and study some.. Afraid I'm going to do something worse chasing this error.
"Why do want to hire some with experience? So they won't make stupide mistakes. How do you get experience? By making stupid mistakes."
@@gregh3947 I can understand that you want to stay in your comfort zone. Just remember that we start getting better when we push outside that comfort zone. What if you took a piece of scrap and made a channel in it that fits your banding. Next think through how you could widen that gap 1/16. Try it on the scrap. Develop your technique. Don’t worry about mistakes - it’s scrap. Do it 5 times. When I create a channel for inlay banding like that I never do it in one pass. The odds that your router bit and the banding are the same width are small. Instead I route a narrower channel on my piece and on some scrap. Then I adjust my router on the scrap until the second pass gives me exactly the width I need. Then I do the second pass on the piece. Tight fit.
I think the 1400 is a powerhouse and best used for plunge routing large work using patterns with a bushing or the like.
I totally understand what you are demonstrating - but to me you're using a tool that is complete overkill for the demonstration you give. I'd use a little battery power Makita for what you're showing.
Also, no mention of the rail? Use the rail - that's what it is designed for - you won't have any stability issues with the rail.
Thanks for watching and for the feedback!
Have you checked your OF1400 with a centering mandrel? Mine was totally not centered.
if you pull the router back slowly it will suck up the shavings...after the cut
I use a 36mm hose and rarely have an issue. Same goes for my track saw which results in basically zero chips.
Are you seeing it? He's plunging the router with ONE HAND. Try that with any other router and it's just not comfortable, doable but clumsy. The 1400 is the smoothing plunging 2+ hp router in the world. You can plunge the 1400 with your pinky.
Some people get two edge guides and put one on each side of the workpiece and then they can cut in any direction they choose. The handle is designed for use on the guide rail. That's not for mortises of course but it works well for dados and rabbits. Doesn't matter which way you go when running it on the guide.
Yup. Clearly the best mid size router out there.
I do a lot of work tops , due to the handle being so high I have to be very careful that it does not tip . The best way I’ve found is push with one hand on the base plate which I do not like doing . To my mind it’s a poor design in sad to say
Definitely takes some getting used to.
You also need a light module th-cam.com/users/shorts1Cih0GhS1AA