Kind of unrelated but what would happen if you ran the pump with it not engaged or engaged but the transmission left in neutral? We have some really hot hydrants in our area and i have spoken with a number of people and am very experienced myself and havent found a way to reduce the pressure with a number of different methods but still havent found a real solution. One person had suggested leaving it in neutral and letting the impellers act as brakes but I dont think it really makes a lot of sense operationally but the bigger question is fluid pumps in the transmission or transfer case. Concerned that it would be like towing without pulling the drive shafts. Basically cook something because the transmission pump isnt spinnining or that the same might be an issue in tne transfer case.
I would like hear a comment from Hale on the pump packing adjustment, I worked on a lot of Hale pumps and adjusted a lot of packing and never used an air hammer with a steel flat punch on a brass adjustment ring unless I intended to replace the adjustment ring. The packing is likely full of scale like the bottom of the pump. My tech were suppose put the pump in gear, with the truck not running and make an adjustment while turning the adjustment nut. The reason for this was the pump shaft can float a bit and I have seen older packing that was tighten like this move the impeller into the clearance ring and end up cutting through it. You can feel it if you are turning by hand but you won't if you just run the pump off the engine. Eight drops per minute at 150 I find is a little tight but you can check the shaft and gland temperature with a laser temp tester. The3 reason you want to change the packing every 2 to 3 years is so you change them before thy scale up and get this hard, Hardly ever happens. I believe by the looks of it just changing the packing on the outside of the lantern ring would only be a short solution. I believe to do a proper job you need to drop the pump and check the shaft for grooving and install a new packing and lantern ring. Thanks for your video, just a comment from a old master EVT.
The code is because fuel pressure is taking too long to build while cranking. Does the fuel rail pressure drop out after shutting the engine off? It should hold the pressure with the engine off. If it drops rapidly, you have an internal fuel system leak to the fuel return. Could be injector, hp pump, rail pressure relief or a combination of components. Quickserve has an extensive process to diagnose fuel pressure codes.
Kind of unrelated but what would happen if you ran the pump with it not engaged or engaged but the transmission left in neutral? We have some really hot hydrants in our area and i have spoken with a number of people and am very experienced myself and havent found a way to reduce the pressure with a number of different methods but still havent found a real solution. One person had suggested leaving it in neutral and letting the impellers act as brakes but I dont think it really makes a lot of sense operationally but the bigger question is fluid pumps in the transmission or transfer case. Concerned that it would be like towing without pulling the drive shafts. Basically cook something because the transmission pump isnt spinnining or that the same might be an issue in tne transfer case.
I would like hear a comment from Hale on the pump packing adjustment, I worked on a lot of Hale pumps and adjusted a lot of packing and never used an air hammer with a steel flat punch on a brass adjustment ring unless I intended to replace the adjustment ring. The packing is likely full of scale like the bottom of the pump. My tech were suppose put the pump in gear, with the truck not running and make an adjustment while turning the adjustment nut. The reason for this was the pump shaft can float a bit and I have seen older packing that was tighten like this move the impeller into the clearance ring and end up cutting through it. You can feel it if you are turning by hand but you won't if you just run the pump off the engine. Eight drops per minute at 150 I find is a little tight but you can check the shaft and gland temperature with a laser temp tester. The3 reason you want to change the packing every 2 to 3 years is so you change them before thy scale up and get this hard, Hardly ever happens.
I believe by the looks of it just changing the packing on the outside of the lantern ring would only be a short solution. I believe to do a proper job you need to drop the pump and check the shaft for grooving and install a new packing and lantern ring.
Thanks for your video, just a comment from a old master EVT.
Yeah I really appreciate the comment. Good info. I actually ended up replacing the packaging and adjuster on this very unit.in a later video.
The code is because fuel pressure is taking too long to build while cranking. Does the fuel rail pressure drop out after shutting the engine off? It should hold the pressure with the engine off. If it drops rapidly, you have an internal fuel system leak to the fuel return. Could be injector, hp pump, rail pressure relief or a combination of components. Quickserve has an extensive process to diagnose fuel pressure codes.
its dropping out after about 2hours
Thanks junkpile I'll look through quickserve for some more troubleshooting tests.
I would check for air in the fuel next.
@@scottyzevtThank you for the unique Fire Apparatus content!