TUTORIAL: How to wire up and flash the ESP8266 12E properly! It works! (Arduino - Getting Started)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ธ.ค. 2016
- My website link for downloads (if any are present), etc:
youtube.accbs.co.uk/Video.aspx...
Just a tutorial on how to get the ESP8266 12E to work properly. It's the most difficult module I've worked with to date and I finally feel as though I've cracked it. So I thought I'd share this with everyone so that they don't have to spend countless hours the way I did! :-)
NB:
The capacitors are used to reduce noise and also for stability - I'd say they are necessary! The resistors are pull up and pull down resistors, these are to prevent ambiguous signals from being read into the ESP8266. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Thanks Antony! I had a couple of these and was staring at them and wondering what to do with them...then i saw your video! Cool...thanks!
Not all heroes wear capes.. I've must have put in 40+ hours in getting this thing to work before coming across your video. Thanks for uploading this!
TheTuyp thanks! :)
Thanks, the hole pull up / down resistor thing is become more clear now. Using the resistors in place of "just" a jumper wire on the pins that need to go high or low makes sense, ie, just need a small amount of current to set the pin high/low, not the FULL amount.
Nice vid, it really worked !! Thanks a lot!
Great post and clear wiring instructions. Thank you.
It just occurred to me that life might be better if you wired the ESP6266 into connector wires upside down. The top side of the ESP8266 does not have much to say for itself, being short on length and weak on plot, but the bottom has pin labels. Woot! Being able to see the pin functions is likely to reduce wiring errors.
Thanks John! Yes, you're right. I did it this way just for aesthetic reasons...
Ah yes but....if you turn it the other way up, you cant see the LED flashing. Yours is a good point, but i think i would rather just use a cheat sheet for the pins and then also be able to see the LED. Then, as Antony said, there's the aesthetics to consider! lol!......
Thanks. That was great; both technical and teaching aspects... After following all your tips, would the ESP8266 work reliably?
Thank you so much for your video, it worked perfectly for me!!!
can you provide me circuit diagram,
Thanks Antony, one question, it works well but I do not need to change the state of GPIO0 or RST to put my ESP12E into "run code" mode, my wiring is the same as the initial setup, do you have any idea why this is?
Thanks a lot antony for this video. Every beginner should watch this :).
Thanks Kaushik! :-)
22 guage hookup wire, or ask for breadboard wire in local electronics shops. got 90 meters for 200rs in India, chennai
actually it's a very well done video. keep up the good work. i am no newbie, to esp at least, but i enjoyed nonetheless.
Thanks for your comment. I'm still learning to be honest, I'm far from an expert.
Best demo I've found so far. What exactly do I search to find the type of blue wire you're using? The stuff I get has multiple stringy strands instead of the nice solid core on yours.
Hi, thanks very much for your comment. The wire is solid single core, 0.6mm² "bell wire". Antony... Buy it in large quantities because it's way cheaper! If you need 10m for example, buy 100m or 50m...You'll see that the price will not be hugely different. Antony...
I am just using single core 22awg wire and it works fine, if anyone else is looking. Get it on Amazon smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008L3QJAS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
0.6mm^2 looks like around AWG20. I'm surprised that thickness of wire could fit in those tiny holes. But I like the end result.
Thanks i have been looking to go to super minimal for deep sleep and long use battery life for a sensor. Are the gpio pull-ups on the soc or the dev boards? I want to use a temp/ humidity sensor that wake every hour poles send home to esphome the back to deep sleep
Hey Anthony thanks for your great video, there's definitely a need for esp8266 instruction so thank you.
I've been battling with trying to get micropython on my lolin esp8266 12e board. It flashed no prob and even worked for a while but not anymore so I might follow your instructions with a bare 12e board and see how it goes. I think my problem is stability. The micropython language is a cool development in the microcontroller hobbyist world, did you try it yet?
Also does your uart board actually have an FTDI chip or is it ch340 or cp2102. I've had trouble with finding a reliable uart when working in Windows 7. Anyhow thanks for your efforts :)
Hi Jimbob! Thankyou for your comments!
I agree about the ESP8266, I'd battled with it for some time myself! Most online resources seemed to conflict in some areas too, so I thought it would be a good idea to present a working method and actually show people the unit working!
If your problem is stability, have you made sure that wires are as short as possible, you're using a good power source and that you are using decoupling capacitors where necessary? If you really want a stable unit, I highly recommend the NodeMCU. I have a video about it on here.
I've used Python, but not heard of MicroPython, but I assume it is Python for microprocessors?
I have several UARTs, but the red ones which I use in my videos are real FTDI chips.
Thanks again, Antony...
You're killing me with those blue wires
So Clean..your desk and everything😆
Hey! Quick question on soldering tiny components like these: do these handle a little bit of rigour? I found that these easily come off. I am wondering if stencil + solder paste + heat gun is a reliable way to soldering these. Thanks for making a video by the way. :) hope to see more like these.
Hi! Thanks for your comment! About soldering tiny components, I've found that they are quite delicate. If you heat them up too much, the pads can melt off the PCB. You can actually get an SMT breakout board for these though, and they are very easy to solder up and also give you the regular pin pitch. The way they are designed is in such a way whereby the pads are soldered downwards, so its a lot harder to damage the pads using this breakout board, and ofcourse, there are no awkward wires to have to grip either... Thanks again, I like making these videos. I hope to do one on the STM32 at some point, and also I'm going to be working on a Solar Control Computer too..
Great video. I've struggled to find anything about programming this module. I keep getting NodeMCU flashing guides. I actually used an 8pin UART programmer with a button between GPIO0 and ground that I'd been using with ESP01s modules but it wasn't working. Then saw your vid and learned I needed to ground GPIO15 (still not sure why). Now successfully uploading sketches through Arduino IDE.
But I'm still not having success booting the module up. I've been installing Tasmota and it seems like the 3.3v I'm giving it isn't enough or something. The led is barely lighting up. Any ideas Anthony or anyone else reading?
thank you very much.. it worked
Great Video ..Can you tell me what gauge wire you use to solder to the ESP12E :)
meir rotfleisch Thanks, it's not overly important, but this is most likely 24awg.
22awg works fine also
Nice. How to extend pin out circuit.
Do you have the code for the Arduino?, and in board is it generic ESP8266?
Why are you using a .1µF cap between Vcc and GND (Wondering about the value, not the cap itself)
Thank you very much.
I absolutely loved the video. I didn't know much before I watched your video, and actually I may now know less, but I had an excellent laugh. I've often wondered what the hell purpose did the manufacturers have in mind when they soldered a bunch of this shit together? It is often pure snake oil, with no directions, but many baseless claims. I have no idea about this particular board, but I certainly wouldn't be in the least surprised if it was similar. Absolutely fabulous video. If you could have made it twitch randomly, it would have better resembled a very colorful dying centipede/cockroach or whatever.
Haha! Thanks Robert! Yes, I know where you're coming from! I spent a long time scavenging for documentation for this module. I also spent hours trying to understand it and try to get this thing working. It's easier to just use the NodeMCU. Antony...
Ok, I want to make clear some discussion topics in this comment section. He said, this is the most reliable way and he's right. You can use esp8266's for every single application with this setup. But he didn't tell why you need this bulky parts. I am gonna start with capacitors. You will need capacitors only if you're gonna use relays or motors in your projects, these type of electrical components will have voltage fluctuations, and the spikes can potentially damage your esp. But ams1117 is a linear voltage regulator, you can use a buck converter instead without having to use capacitors. The resistors are only needed when you are gonna use those pins as i/o's. So you should use resistors where you need more i/o pins. Besides you can just use cables to make the proper connections. And again I highly recommend using a buck converter instead of a linear voltage regulator. They are more efficient and they are tiny. So you should use these components on purpose.
is there any reason this doesn't need an external crystal? I've inherited a project based on one of these modules and between the different data sheets I've found I can't find one with a pin out that matches and shows where an external crystal would connect, but each data sheet does mention the need for at least a 26mhz crystal yet can handle up to 40hz and from what I understand it is recommended. Do you know if there is a crystal internally? is that the 26 mhm one?
According to the schematic for the module, it already has an external crystal on the PCB.
If you're looking at the datasheet for the esp8266ex, cross reference that with the schematic for the esp-12f (or 12e) module to see what it already taken care of
I think this is a really cool way to do it....and it's still the only video (i think) that i have seen do it this way! Of course, there are now breakout boards that simplify this, but i still think this is the coolest method ....and looks great when it's finished! It's kinda like those videos that solder an entire blink circuit on one op-amp (th-cam.com/video/ymcoy4K87e8/w-d-xo.html}.....absolute minimalist.....and almost an art form! Hats off to you, Antony! This video never gets old!
Thanks! This video was extremely well timed too. It was well respected at the time! Ha.
Could you post the Arduino code used in the video? Thanks!
This is not working in my case
Wdt reset shows in serial monitor
What should I used.
Change in my ckt I have use h1117 regulator
have you ever work on android broker such as moquette or something like that ?
when we have one esp8266 and we want to connet to it with 20 mobile phone what happen?
each esp8266 or esp 12e can just have 8 TCP/ UDP connection
what's your idea if we have 20 mobile phones and simultaneous they want to connect to one esp publisher?
if we run an android broker on one of mobile phones and other connect to it we can connect to esp by one TCP/UDP from broker to esp, is it true?
have you ever work on android broker such as moquette or something like that ?
and we don't have any cloud on the net!!!!
why dont u connect the 3.3v from UART? doesn't have one?
one question, when you talk about the RST, what does mean the "GND via tact."?? because i understand that is different of the GND directly connection. and other one, why do we need a capacitor between vcc and gnd?that's for all. kind regards
Eva Mc My first female comment! Welcome to my channel. Gnd via tact means ground but switched ground. In other words, there is a switch between the pin and gnd. when you press the switch, it connects to ground, otherwise it doesn't. About the capacitor, it is for stability. I think there are two in this video. Antony.
Antony Cartwright yes, but it is a need to be switched in order to work with the esp8266? my uart ttl does not have RST.
Antony Cartwright thanks for your welcome and for your video and obiusly for answering so quick
Eva Mc Hi again. Yes it must be switched because RST is the reset pin. You wouldn't be able to reset the device if there wasn't some sort of way to momentarily ground the rst pin. Antony
Can you please share the codes, the website link is not working
So was the ESP flashed with a program? What program? Thanks.
KM6VV Just Arduino.
DL8VKO which arduino sketch?
This is a good video. However, you do not explain WHY each of the components are needed. Just saying, "you need X" without telling "why", actually does not teach anything. Why not explain that the capacitors are used to stabilize the voltage etc? Why are the resistors needed.. and so on. Just my 50 cents.
Daniele Testa Thanks for your comment. Some people don't want to know why, they just want to know how. But yes, I suppose I agree with you.
Like Daniele Teste, I'd also like to have a "why" and not "just cuz".
You've held your own on some of the other comments in explaining why you've added components, but I guess it's that eternal struggle of time. Less videos but more indepth, or more videos but not going into some of the details...
Still think you've got some great content tho, have learnt a lot.
I actually like to know why too, but videos with more depth are simply not watched unfortunately. Most people seem to want quick "How to" videos.
Where to draw the line? That is the question. :)
@@AntonyCartwright I could do with why and how, I have just received my arduino and no nothing about it, want to learn and would appreciate more info and small projects to do, unfortunately my brain is slow so need it spelled out to me.
It's an ESP8266 Monster! :D
A 16 legged monster with a ceramic head! Lol.
Really Thanks a lot, really.
GR8 video.. :)
Thankyou! More videos to come soon...
Heyy Antony, do you know if this will work with Arduino Mega instead of FTDI UART ?
Hi Anay, I don't fully understand the question. Could you ellaborate?
he wants to use his mega to program the esp instead of the ftdi. pretty simple question.
That's not a simple question I'm afraid! The UART is a serial transmitter and receiver. The Arduino Mega is a microcontroller. A microcontroller can be programmed to do many many things. If someone wanted to, they could make an Arduino into a UART. So, theoretically, yes, it's possible. Antony...
Antony Cartwright yes but the mega has 4 UARTs. he could forward the communication from the PC UART to the esp UART.
Then it seems that it is possible. :-)
What gauge wire did you solder to the esp8266?
Hi! Thanks for your comment. The exact gauge of the wire isn't really that important here because the device consumes around 200ma max and the wires are extremely short. However, to answer your question, I probably used AWG24 or so. Antony..
22awg works fine also
Should we leave resistor as it is after code is uploaded
Reply fast
Leave EN pull-up resistor after flash
Remove other two resistors
Wonder why not using male pin header.
Do u have a reasonably stable bootloader to program it via wifi?
it has a 2mm pitch. the breadboards are 2.54mm pitch. plus the pins don't fit for some reason
Reckon slightly bending long pin headers might be easier. anywayz, thanks for the video.
Aliexpress sells 2mm pin header, and 2mm to 2.54mm dupont cable too.
Your uart has 5v logic level- it can destroy the esp. You need to use a resistive divider on the TX by uart.
Thanks for your comment, however, it's not correct. In this example, the UART was set to 3.3v. These UARTs which I'm using are dual mode ones. Thanks, Antony...
never mind, it has a jumper that switched to 3.3 volt. :D
Good Video but in my case i'm getting this error
warning: espcomm_sync failed
error: espcomm_open failed
error: espcomm_upload_mem failed
error: espcomm_upload_mem failed
how to over come from this
Are you sure you've selected the correct (virtual) COM port in the IDE?
The COM port (e.g. /dev/ttyACM0) maybe in use (i.e., opened) by some other software, if so you should close that software first. Another possibility is that the previous software that used the COM port did not release it properly, in which case rebooting and retrying should work.
what gauge wire is that?
22awg
Use in a bread board is fuckinv genius lol deff gonna steal that
Lol, thanks.
You need to remake this video, explaining why you did what you did at each step. Most people wont magicall get why there is capasitor there, why are you connecting all these resistors, why have that smaller cap between VCC and GND.
Hi rcatank, thanks for your comment. Unfortunately, the reasons 'why' I did certain things is intentionally out of the scope of the video. The reason for this is because I feel that the majority of my audience do not want to know 'why', they just want to know 'how'. The video is meant to be concise, basic and quick. I didn't want to bog viewers down with too much detail. If I get a few more comments similar to yours though, I will make a video to accompany this one, explaining 'why'. Thanks, Antony...
Antony Cartwright Could you explain the small cap being used?
Never did it with my teeth before, but I might give it a try
I can do it really fast now! :-D
nice video :)
can arduino uno flash the esp8266 12e like yours ? how teach me senpai thanks alot! please reply
3:24 Looks like a spider
Thanks for your video. Can you explain what is the purpose of the small capacitor soldered on the esp? Regarding GPIO2, I'm surprised as I did not manage to flash it without wiring it to ground if I remember correctly.
Also, you might be interested in this 3D printable adapter found on thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1333056
The small capacitor is a decoupling/filtering capacitor. It's to protect the ESP from unwanted signals apparently. I have tested it with and without and it does seem to increase reliability substantially. I'd say it is absolutely necessary.
The adapter is very interesting by the way! I'll look at that in more depth later! Thanks...
What are you doing?
Dylan Hamer Just putting kids to bed. You? Lol
Antony Cartwright Haha, but seriously, why are you using wires for headers and why are you using the capacitors? The ESP8266 doesn't need all this circuitry.
Hey Mr Hamer! Have you tried to use it without? Lol. If you use a breakout board, you don't need all this, that is true, but that's because the breakout board already contains this stuff! If you don't have the breakout board, and don't use wires, you can't get the ESP to work at all! If you miss the caps, then it browns out every few seconds! :-)
Antony Cartwright The ESP works fine on its own just with the correct pins connected to make it run in my experience but if it works for you
Maybe I just had a few bad batches! ;-) Lol.
Where is the circuit diagram,
I've never seen it, but I imagine you can get it from espressif.
I mean circuit diagram of your connections Of your circuit you ate doing in video
spider esp
This is actually a tutorial of how to take a little neat cheap device and transform it to big pricey ugly something without any real need. Unreliable? Who told you that BS? My house full of esp8266 devices working 24/7 for at least 1 year without any capacitors, resistors, voltage regulators and other BS. I didn't have even single issue with their work.
Hey! Thanks for your comment, although I strongly disagree. Adding 2 capacitors, a regulator and resistors does not at all make it into a "big pricey ugly something", well certainly not for me anyway as the components cost pennies. I told myself the ESP8266 were unreliable, this was from experience. Even now, I still believe they can be very temperamental! About your statement regarding having a family of ESP8266s "working" for a year without capacitors, resistors, voltage regulators - I'm afraid I don't believe that for one second! Is it possible that you're actually using something called a NodeMCU? If you are, this module already contains the components.
Maybe if you have time, you could show us your family of them working without extra components? That would be very interesting!
Antony...
No, it's not NodeMCU. Most of them are good old ESP-01. Working without single issue as I said, and even receiving sometimes an OTA updates. As for capacitors, voltage regulators and other useless stuff - you really don't need them because your power supply already has all this. If you need them - it's a sign that you should throw away your power supply because it's not doing its job properly. If you don't know - it's a power supply's job to produce stable voltage without any fluctuations. All you did in this video - is just duplicated your power supply's circuit for no reason.
Ahhh, the old ESPs - I see. I've not worked with the older ones, so I wouldn't know.
About the regulators though, I disagree, the main reason for this is that a lot of IOT applications are mobile and there may not be a proper power supply unit - so it's common place to put a reg in. There were also three reasons why I'd regulated it twice though; The first reason was that this is a simple tutorial and viewers may not have a PSU like mine, they may be using a 5v supply or another supply... So throwing in the reg gives them more chance of success and makes it easier! The second reason is that my PSU was not stable enough for the ESP. The third reason is that my PSU wasn't designed to be used like this, it's a testing unit and that a simple touch of the dial would shoot the voltage up to 9 or 10v... It is too sensitive! So if I didn't use a reg, I'd be risking the ESP! (I actually blew an ESP by doing this lol) Antony...
The screen was too fuzzy.
You can buy a dedicated programmer