Last Chance Fall Mite Control / Oxalic Acid Dribble Method
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ค. 2024
- With Fall growing closer, I decided to try the dribble method. This is an oxalic acid/ syrup mixture that is applied over the bees with a syringe when they are broodless. Studies show this method to drop mites very well when applied at the correct time and mixture. Watch to see how it'e done.
Randy Oliver Links (Must Read): scientificbeekeeping.com/oxali...
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Well, varroa hit Australia two years ago, it is still spreading slowly, its time I did this treatment this coming winter, have bought the essentials and I am studying up, glad I found this video, it is very helpful information.
Cheers .
A commercial beekeeper recommended I use this method on new swarm captures. I think I will keep it premixed ready to use. Start the bees off mite free. Thanks for the videos. Randy Oliver is good at doing thorough research.
Please dont keep it premixed. The sugar make HMF and can kill the bees.
Use it only fresh.
08/2023
Good morning!
We have been using the dribble straws method for 3 years... mite counts are low.
This weekend we will try this dribble method... I have just enough OA left over to make the syrup!
These methods are MUCH easier than the fogger method! ❤
Like your vids alot Jason. Ive used the dribble method for the last 5 or 6 years. Ive found if hive is healthy this time of year and I treat with drbble they always survive winter. I treat 2 weeks after first hard frost. I use a graduated equine syringe from Tractor supply. 5 ml per seam of bees. No more than 50ml per hive total. This method works people.
Great info. Thanks!
This is valuable info! I assume that in the two years since you first posted this video, that you still feel positive about using this technique. And thanks for the pointer to Randy Oliver's site. Everyone needs to avail themselves of his material. BTW while I'm at it, I'm not I'm trying to hand out flattery, but thank you for the information that you continuously provide. I kept bees during the 70s and 80s but my work started taking me all over the place which forced me to give up my bees. Now that I'm retired, I'm relearning beekeeping because boy, has beekeeping changed. Thanks to you and people like David at Barnyard Bees, new beekeepers and "retreads" like me now have a level of coaching that I didn't have in the old days. So thank you for what you're doing!
No problem, glad the videos are so helpful. It's nice to hear all the hard work is paying off. Also glad to hear you've returned to keep bees. As far as the dribble method, it works best when the hives are broodless. Best of luck to you and your bees!
really like the custom stir stick
great video
What an excellent presentation. It was superb. Keep on making them. Well done.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks
Glad I found your channel. I will try it this year. Thanks 👍
oWorks good used it last winter with low hive loses. Have also used on nucs on the 19th day after makeup works great on them too in spring.
Thank you for this... exactly what I needed right now!
thank you for the vid, and the link to R. Oliver
Thank you for sharing I will be trying this !!
I did an OA dribble treatment on all of my hives this past Friday. I have used the fogger method. IT SUCKS! I built my Provap a couple of weeks ago but have not finished testing on it yet. This is my first time doing the dribble method. I can not believe how fast this method takes. I like the fact that I don't have to wear a respirator when doing a dribble. Nobody wants to get OA crystals in their lungs for sure. I will be using this method next year as part of an ongoing IPM strategy.
It was very fast process. Probably faster than the Pro Vap even.
Thanks for the info will be using your method
No problem 👍
Thank you Jason . i am now comfortable and confident to use OA . i ordered OA from Amazon tonight . i would have ordered it in the U.S but its not available. im inCanada and did find it there . thank you again. Love your videos.
Awesome! I NEEDED THIS! I'm going to do this tomorrow. The brood is pretty much NULL. Prolly my last hive check this year. 😭
Good luck!
Thank you for this. Very easy to understand!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the video.
Thanks for your video it's helped me treat my bee's. Cheers 🍻
Glad to help
Randy Oliver smart common sense type bee keeper... love his take on bio hazards bringing in swarms and cut outs.. I use to raise rare game birds and when eggs are selling at 10.00 up to 150.00 each your very careful with bio hazards... someone comes by they must go thru boot wash .. no cages boxes ect ill supply you a box ... bird swaps wash tires before going home ect ... any new stock must go thru quartine... hobby be keeper love free bees but they should have a yard setup .. just for that ... really easy to expand were pretty much limited to equipment..
I raise chickens and tried to get a part time job at the local chicken farm. She asked if I had chickens and when I said yes, she turned me down. So I know all about the process to get livestock quarantined. I never gave it much thought in the bee world though until now. What you said, makes complete sense. I also raise cattle and when new cattle come on the farm they are kept in the corral for a week or so to make sure they are not carrying anything that could make the herd sick. I can't believe I never thought about this until now. Thanks for opening my eyes.
I bought a fogger but have not used it yet and after watching this video I don't think that I will use it. Thanks for these videos.
I've never used a fogger. Have you seen studies it's effective?
I saw a presentation from professor what I think was university of Florida. Showed that legal limit of 2g wasn’t effective as 4g and weekly use was safe for bees.
VERY, VERY thankful to be living in Aus where Varroa destructor and Varroa jacobsoni are yet to become a pest/problem. Yes, we have had incursions, but so far we have been lucky.
Jacqueline Donoghue You guys are very lucky not to have varroa, big problem for us in NZ chemical treatments becoming less effective.
@@lindsayharper6592 As a beekeeper I worry about that day when Varroa becomes a problem in Aus.
It will happen here too
@@claire2430 I have no doubt that it shall... just hopefully after I have gone and cannot see it.
Think I’ll try it this year
Nice! Best of luck!
Really appreciate all you're videos. On a double deep colony you would split and treat both the top and bottom boxes correct ?
Jason, to answer 'why I do it different'- to use the dribble method you have to remove the top deep or tilt it back full of honey at this broodless time of year to dribble on the cluster that's in the bottom deep. Did that the first year and never again. To heavy. I have use Oxalic acid vaporized, one treatment for the past two Novembers and have 0 winter loss for 13 hives. I'm in NH where we leave a full deep of honey for winter.
I am not a fan of breaking the seal between the boxes that's why I never removed the top box. Plus I was able to see the cluster from the top. Best of luck this winter.
Haven't had much for mites this year here in Michigan....last year different story they were bad ... still treat once a month... noticed 13 dead mites treating a double stacked nuc box 3 days ago.. went ahead treated again across my 3 yards ... before that 3 was the largest kill .. ether these expensive strains I've invested in have higher mite resistance or just less mites around .. ether way the varrola destroyer is in my cross hairs ... thanks for the vid I've never used that method always OAV
I am gonna guess you must have Purdue Ankle biter queens? They are pretty decent at controlling mites from what I hear. I have yet to try them because I hear they have a little temper. I'm not a fan of mean bees. lol
I have itailian and carnie queens from olavaris great product.. there sacktraz queens failed for me most were killed after two weeks rest just didnt produce much brood .. also have northern strain queens from joe z in northeast pa all super stars great stock ..... i dont wear any protective gear bees are very friendly when there not covered in mites
The prices on the Sacktraz queens was insane. At first I was gonna try a couple then I decided not to thank goodness. I have heard great things about the Olivaris queen though. Even from beekeepers that overwinter them here in Ohio. Glad to hear you have some good genetics. Best of luck with wintering them.
Thank you for posting this ..I’m new beekeeper and coming out of my first winter going into spring ...not a OA vapor fan but really like to try this dribble method on my 2 hives this spring. Guess above 50 temps ok to apply ? Like to keep it Simple ! Thank you Jason .
Actually you can do the dribble with temps as low as 40F. It's a great way to treat too.
Thank you mr... it's very good for me
You are most welcome
Thank you again..i am from iran and i am always watching your video
got all the stuff ready to go it will be warm this week in nerk
Newark, huh? Hello neighbor! It's actually still warm enough to OAV if you have that option. I recently learned you can vaporizer down to 37°F but you should smoke them a little first to make them leave cluster before treating with OAV.
I wish I could find info using the imperial vs the metric system in measuring ingredients.
Jason- this is a great video. I'm a newbie- have a couple of questions:
- there is no harm in just using distilled water, correct?
-And is there a temperature range you should be using be using oxalic acid in, i.e. you shouldn't apply it if it's too hot or too cold outside?
-Finally, do you treat with oxalic acid both in spring and late fall? If so, what months?
thank you!
Hey Jason, Is the OA Dribble one of the safest mite control methods? Like compared to Formic Pro and Mite stripes, is it safer for the bees?
What if your doing a double brood set of hives?
Thank tou gor all you do Jason. How often can this be done? Is it more along the lines of vaporization method ? Every 4 to 6 days.....for about 21 days or so to capture an entire brood cycle?
I have used before on packages about 5 days after installation and saw low mite counts through the summer. Not sure theres much difference than with OAV since neither will kill mites under cappings. I have a pro vap at work and have disassembled and took photos of the parts and locations- have ordered and hope to assemble one this winter
The difference is the dribble is applied once and vaporizing is applied 3 times 5-7 days apart. So there is far less work with the dribble.
Jason Chrisman , I think that when there is not any brood, vaporizing (OAV) needs only one time just like dribble but when we have brood both systems needs 2-3 rounds. Maybe I’m wrong. Please comment it.
I am not sure on OAV when broodless but I do know dribbling only works if broodless. Read Randy Oliver site in the video description.
Jason, do you have any experience working with Formic acid? Wonder if using this same method would work. I am now spraying it in the entrance of the hive.
My experience is limited to Mite Away Quick strips when it comes to formic acid. I have never heard of spraying it though, sounds interesting. With that said, I have no clue to rather it could be dribbled.
Late seeing this method but looks easy enough. Do you think it would also work earlier in the Fall while still warm by using a spray bottle to spritz each frame of bees? Thanks for the videos.
It may not be to late depending where you are located but you need to follow the instructions very closely. This mean a spray bottle will not work. Also this method is only used after the colonies go brood-less (In the Fall). Usually this method is done when temps are in the 40-50's (F).
Great Video :)
Question: Could you reapply until the brood has been born, like you do the vapor method?
To be honest, I am not sure. Do a search on Randy Oliver and the dribble method and see if his blog mentions it.
I have read that it is only recommended to use the dribble method once per year.
Do you use this dribble method on only the nucs or do you use it on 10 frames singles or 10 frame two story hives? Thank you Ron
Size doesn't matter. What matters is there is very little capped brood.
So do you harvest the honey that you just put the dribble on? Thank you Jason 🇺🇸
Great question but I can't say for sure. I would say "no" and play it safe. Usually in the Fall the surplus honey is already removed when you dribble.
As you mentioned, a comment reply, vaporizing requires retreatment 3 times each 7 days apart. Are you saying this treatment technique does not require retreatment? Why do you recommend when broodless?
With the dribble, you only apply it once and your done. They have to be broodless to be effective as mites in capped cells would not be killed.
After watching this video, I have decided to try this method. I lost all of my hives last year and am starting new. Coincidentally, I installed 2 3lb packages yesterday while simultaneously catching a swarm in a nearby empty hive. So there is no brood , yet. Do I go ahead and treat now or wait until fall?
Thanks
Sounds like your numbers are growing fast. I would treat now to lower the current mite level then again in the Fall.
New to Beekeeping and my first package of bees is coming the first week of May. Is this something I should think about this first winter and should I think about treating them before or soon after I get them to start with a clean colony?
Congrats on your new adventure! Great question too! Yes, it is a great idea to treat for mites as soon as you get them installed into their new home and the dribble method would work very well because they would be brood-less. With such a great question before you even have your bees I can tell your on your way to success. 😊
I read below that this can be used on package bees. How about swarms? Do you think it would help when you catch a swarm to spray the swarm before placing it in a hive body?
I see no issues treating swarms, good idea!
I was wondering the same thing...put it in a fine mist spray bottle?
Jason, I too enjoy your videos.
I've actually been thinking of substituting the sugar with glycerin, like Randy Olliver tried this January. However, I haven't been able to find anything he's written on its effectiveness... He states in his site he believes it's easier on the bees because they don't ingest it like sugar syrup.
What are your thoughts after reading what he wrote on his site?
Thanks!
Neil in Missouri.
Like you, I am not sure what to think about using glycerin as the article doesn't go into enough detail on it. I guess if I were to try it, I would start small and only treat a couple that way at most to see the reaction. Better safe than sorry, right? Best of luck and keep me posted if you try on how it goes.
Jason Chrisman tried the glycerin mix on two. Seems like a good mite drop, but it's been too cold and rainy here to check on the bees... 🤔
Seems reducing molecular size of water a benefit. How would Murphys Oil soap work?
I don’t think he”s published data yet. All I saw was his comment “we treated 1500 hives and were happy with it”. Guess the problem is that if you treat once, in late autumn/early winter, it’s too cold to do an alcohol wash after. I treated 8 hives last winter, all came thru. Treated 8 hives and 5 nucs this December. All I can say is anecdotal: it’s quick, easy, doesn’t agitate the bees AT ALL if you warm the mix (gently) before application, saw significant mite drops on OBB sheets 2 days later, and so far all hives appear healthy. Saw no bee kill. Hopefully, Randy will do one of his studies where he treats and then sacrifices entire hives, does meticulous counts, etc. Would settle the issue. For now, I plan to stick with it based on my own experience. Theoretically it should be easier on the bees as they should not be ingesting it, unlike the sugar mixtures.
If you store it in refrigerator or enywgere with the access be aware this solution might harm the one who drinks it. So I would always store it somewhere without the access of others or just use it all.
What size tubing are you using and where do you get it? I've been using the oxalic acid and alcohol in a fogger this season, but I feel like I might have scorched a queen or two doing it. In order to vaporize the alcohol oxalic mix gets to steam temps. not too mention if you spend too much time gassing an entrance the alcohol vapors can come back out of the hive an ignite on you.... and while it actually pops and sounds awesome I'm sure the bees do not appreciate you literally "blowin up there spot"
So I went to the scientific beekeeping link but couldn't find the answer to my question. Are the bees eating this sugar/OA solution?
Yes. That's why it's very important that it's mixed correctly. I recommend scales to be accurate.
I've often wondered something. Birds will pick up ants after a dustbath and wipe the ants under their wings etc. You see the ants spray Formica acid when threatened. So curious if spraying a bit of soft hair attached to the entrance would get rid of them or possibly harm the bees?
That would be formic acid from ants. Interesting idea though.
Would you consider spraying this on a swarm when captured?
Sure would! That would be the perfect time as they would be broodless.
Great idea!
Jason on another note whats your opinion of the Buckfast and Carniolia bee.
To be honest, I am not one to believe in breeds. I thinks all bees are cross bred in today's world How could they not be with different feral colonies everywhere.
well i have a wild hive of bee's and they are defiantly different from my Italian hives ,looks and work ability, i replace the wild queen with a Italian bread Queen, i am already seeing Italian works appearing from hatching out, eventually as all the wild bee,s die or cycle out the entire hive should be all Italians. Or at least thats my theory.
@@newbeebeekeepersguy1207 The queen has bred with local drones. Therefore, not pure Italians.
Jason, can you verify the shelf life recommendation? Others are saying dispose after one day. Did Randy's articles recommend refrigeration?
To be honest, You'd have to read Randy's article. I don't remember and maybe the requirements changed and I don't want to tell you wrong. I believe I linked the article in the video description. Good luck!
I want to do the dribble method but have never done it and I have some 3D hives I really need to do, but I'm scared to do with it being so cold and the moisture Factor,what do you think about that?. I think not doing nothing and letting it die is worse than tearing it all apart an losing a few bees ,but it's taking everything I got to tear apart my hives in this weather,any advice? My homeade 12 volt vaporizer sooooooo slow I don't use it,need pro vape like ur doing
I believe your right! It's far too cold now to dribble but at the same time, I don't have much experience using the dribble method. I am not even 100% sure you could vaporize them with it being so cold. I would start by reaching that though. Maybe pull your car/truck close enough that you could sit inside while it vaps. Otherwise I am not sure there is any treatment that can be used this late. In the future, I would start treating in the early fall. ( you probably know that now)
Yes, my ProVap is coming together nicely. I can't wait to finish it and share a video.
You’re really not tearing it all apart, just popping the lid, dribble; if two boxes, tilt the upper, dribble the lower. 2 minutes max. Easily done in the 40sF, haven’t needed/tried any lower but would if I thought there was a significant mite load.
When feeding my bees sugar water I add apple viniger. About 1/2 teaspoon per gallon.
This contains acetic acid. What affects ,if any, dose this have on mites.
I use it to control mold because I am in the mountains of Western Washington.
Even of more concern is it harmful to my winter bees.
I know several people that add vinegar to the syrup so I don't think it's of any harm to the bees and to be honest, I don't know if it affects the mites.
How many ml for an 8 frame colony?
The powder of oxalic acid is of course very strong and dangerous, but the fiisched mix how strong is it on skin or in eyes.? Im a bit scared of acids and want to know ;)
The big issue is eye contact; definitely must ensure no exposure there. Pretty easy to avoid splatter when applying. I’m more concerned with making sure everything (mixing bowls, stirrers, syringe) is completely rinsed off after use, so I don’t get some on a finger and rub an eye. Rinsing in the sink should be GENTLE; don’t grab the spritzer and blast with it. I put a big bowl in the sink, fill with water, add a few tbsp of baking soda. Then slip anything with OA on it into the bowl. Gently rinse after. OA on the skin is no big deal; if you wash it off in a few minutes you’ll never know it was there. Again, the IMPORTANT thing is to make sure you don’t leave any on your skin and later rub your eyes.
Do you use the sumac with the oxalic acid trement
No. Only oxalic acid
Interesting. Just to clarify... This is a replacement method for vaporizing, not in addition to vaporizing (in early spring and very end of the year), correct?
Treating two deeps might be a stressful/heavy problem come fall is my only concern. I love options though! Thanks for sharing J.C! I'll have to read up on some of Randy's papers when I get some more free time!
No, this can be done in addition to vaporizing. You see all bee hives have mites. When we treat them we are just dropping the mite load. Never will we kill 100% of them. So after vaporizing a month or so ago, the mites have started to gain population again by now. This dribble method is a last chance of insurance that you'll have a low mite count for winter. Keep in mind they are now going broodless so with no brood, there is no more mites being raised.
Hope that helps man!
Thanks J.C that cleared the confusion! However, if you are running two deeps that are packed full of honey I personally cannot lift that 10 frame top box off to treat both boxes, and I really don't think the bees would like that either at this time of year. I presume treating the top box would suffice? I'm sure all of this is covered in Randy's studies, just short on time. Thanks again!
@@alexpaulson4597 why are you lifting boxes? I was reading it as 50 (total) 5 millimeters per "slot" between the frames for a 10 frame hive. It sounds to me you just drip it from the top and that's it. Can someone clarify this? 10 frame box or whatever ever size hive you have is never over 50 millimeters. I'm going to do this..please help. Thx
@Artist 555
I believe you are correct, 50 ml would only do one 10 frame box regardless if your colony is 2 deep tall. However the dribble must land on the bees not the frames. So there could be a case where if the cluster is in the bottom, you would have to remove the top. For that, I suggest doing as Randy shows and get a helper to tilt the top box back. It only takes 45 seconds to dribble all 50ml.
I am not lifting boxes. Best of luck to you!
Hi Jason, one question - i understood before you do the dribble, you should be sure your bees are heavily fed. is this your understanding? at the 42 degree mark, i doubt they are taking on much sugar syrup any longer. what is your thoughts with this?
At the time of Fall dribbling the hive should be pretty much ready for winter, so yes it should be well fed. Dribbling is also used in the Spring to packages of splits, so in that case they would not be fed well. It kinda sounds like your trying to feed and they stopped taking it, is that right? Bees have a harder times taking syrup once temps drop, I'd make a note to start feeding sooner next Fall.
@@JCsBees yes, thank you. I was thinking more on the lines that the bees will ingest the oxalic acid syrup vs if they are full. But you remind me that if its less then 50 they wont be inclinde to eat the syrup. I have been feeding my bees since supers were removed, so they should be good there. thanks much - great info
You actually want the bees to consume the OA syrup, at least that is my understanding to why it has to be mixed correctly.
You actually want the bees to consume the OA syrup, at least that is my understanding to why it has to be mixed correctly.
You actually want the bees to consume the OA syrup, at least that is my understanding to why it has to be mixed correctly.
I just attended a meeting in Oakland Calif. The guy suggested the dribble method as soon as you get your nukes to zero out the mite population. With the concern of a broodless hive , I assume I will have some capped brood. Still OK to do it?
Your not gonna harm the capped brood if that what your worried about. It's just not gonna kill any mites in the capped cells so the least amount of brood is best.
Hello how are you can you explain why the bees are coming up on top of the frame instand staying in the cluster on the end of November lack of food or....?
Hello. There are many reason they could be coming to top of frame and one is lack of food down where bees are clustered. They could also be at top to see why top cover is removed. I would lift the rear of hive slightly to feel how heavy it is. This should tell you if they have food, at least if it's heavy.
@@JCsBees hey Jason thank you it's honor to talk with you listen I have a nine frame of medium size of honey and top because I have one deep one medium the reason why I have this is because I didn't shake them down and September the reason why I don't shake down in the September because they don't have any food in the bottom the Deep ones so this is my third year being a beekeeper so maybe next year I will learn how to have honey into the deep ones instead of medium super but I appreciate your help and like I say no problem with the honey they do have enough food nine frames and also this colony was from the tree was a swarm last year this year was a colony become a big one and they have lots and lots of varroa mite like three hundred and a bottom board where I have those white plastic where I can count them other than that I don't know maybe they have too much of infestation like you say maybe a lack of food but I'm repeating myself they do have nine frames and I don't know what what else? Maybe too much of varroa or like you say after the food but wonder why they go through the center of the frames and gathering under the top of the Vivaldi board I have a Vivaldi soars on
Anytime it’s warm enough to break cluster they will go up and suck up moisture that condenses on the inner cover or from the fabric under a mattress box. They will go up and consume sugar cake even when there’s plenty of honey stores.
Could you used spray bottle instead of drops?
Not sure. You'd have to read Randy Oliver's website.
Got to burp it are we making some prison wine lol jk😆🐝🐝
So you can use this instead of the vaporizer? It seems much easier
The dribble method is best when the colony is brood-less so I prefer to start with a vapoizer then dribble when we get to November.
ooh
If I only have 6 seams of bees in a full hive, should I only use half the amount?
No. I would use the full dose.
5ml per seam is the recommendation. Interestingly, though there is the “50 ml max” rule, Randy Oliver says he routinely ignores it and goes with “5ml per seam”, ignoring if the total exceeds 50. Makes sense. If you have two boxes, with a lot of bees in each, you’d need a larger dose. Also, if you find a weaker hive, say an 8 framer with 4 frames of bees, 50ml might be an OD.
What's your thoughts on using the fogger method?
I haven't seen any studies that show it works, have you? If so, I'd love to see them.
@@JCsBees I haven't seen studies but have seen results in my own colonies. But I still have lost colonies last winter. I believe it was do to lack of pollen though.
Interesting! I may have to look into it. Thanks Rod
Please use caution if using everclear alcohol for your liquid! I have a video about how it can actually blow up your hive, I had it happen. I now use the provape, with great results, 3 weeks in a row.
Jason according to Better Bee and Bee Culture Studies the fogging system kills between 90 and 99% of mites the only down flaw is it usually takes a little longer to do.
How would you treat a double box with this method?
It's 5ml per seam totaling 50ml per 10 frame colony, it's not per box.
Cool thanks!
Like I said in the video, I strongly suggest reading Randy Oliver's site in the video description.
Oct 22, 2021--hey Jason....what is the bottom line on the OA dribble? is the towel method better? or vap?
@natserog The dribble method is a great option after you have already previously treated, it's offers extra insurance that the mite count is low going into winter. I usually vap in August then again in October then at the end of November I dribble.
@@JCsBees thanks....i never have dribbled. I usually do mite counts in Aug...if over tolerance i treat 5 times every 4 days...and i do another mite wash in mid Dec. spell my name backwards.
@natserog It's Stan! lol I had no idea it was you buddy! Good to know. You should try the dribble method it does a great job.
@@JCsBees will do!! Thanks Jason!
@@JCsBees you apply just like Oliver does it?
Just a side note: NEVER EXCEED 50ml per colony! PERIOD!!!
You can also mix this up and spray it on new packages while they are still in the package instead of just spraying them with straight sugar water. You never know what you are getting when you get a package in the mail no matter how "reputable" the seller is.
Great suggestion!
How do you calibrate the dosage on a shook package?
@@2SpritOne I treat a 3# package to the dosage that I would use for a 5 Frame NUC.
Jason, do you still use this method?
I do but not very often. It does work though.
I am worried about using this method in cold temperatures, doesn't the water give the bees a hard time in winter?
No. If you go to the video description you will find a link where Randy Oliver did a lot of testing on this method.
@@JCsBees Thanks, I'll take a look :)
Do you like that more than doing the vap
The actual treatment was a lot faster. I am not even sure a pro vap could beat the speed. I guess for that reason, I do.
I under stand that I'm getting one next year hope the price comes down by then
I plan to make one but because I like to have options when it comes to treating. With the vaporizer you treat 5-7 days apart to get good results with capped brood as where with dribble, it's a one time treatment and they should be broodless or really close to.
@@JCsBees so in case they are not broodless the treatment might fail or won't be effective, right ? Tks for your great vids.
Looks cold up there lol
Chilly maybe but nowhere near cold just yet. lol
Lol it's hot here keep us informed on how you like this way thanks
howdy neighbor i am doing a oav in the am if it aint raining and gets over 50 degrees
Good luck with the rain. lol
Just a question, wouldn't oav work as well and be less intrusive and not get bees wet? Thanks Great video
You shouldn't vaporizer a colony when it's less than 37°F outside. For this reason Randy Oliver discovered this treatment and has done many test on it. Do a search for his website and read it. I may have linked it in this video. This is just another way to lower the mite count before winter strikes.
@@JCsBees I agree scientific beekeeping is a great site. I did missed the part in the video where this was fro low temps sorry.
How does that work do they eat it or just rub it off on each other
They eat it. That's why it important is mixed accurately. I highly recommend scale to weigh out acid.
I fog no bee gets away
Was this method successful for you?
why would you use the dribble method when the vapor works so much better???
Here's why.....You will NEVER be 100% mite free, even after 3 vaporizer treatments. Sure it drops the mite population greatly but even on the last of the 3 treatments, the capped brood still hold live mites. So once that brood emerges, so will the mites. The dribble method is just a way to lower the mite count right as they go broodless due to cold weather. So you see one method is not better than the other, they work together to get the lowest count possible before winter.
that was my understanding as to why you did the fogging 3 times spread out over several weeks so that eventually you would get not only the bees that are out forging but also the new brood as it hatches out by the end of the cycle everything should have been dosed by that time. But Jason let me say i am new and i certainly dont even have close to all the answers. I just figuring it out as i go here and listening to people that have done it a lot longer than me.
Asking questions is a great way to learn my friend. Keep them coming as needed.
Hello Jeson in Ukraine! Like !!!
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Howdy!
كيمياء
You should always wear gloves and eye protection when handling oxalis acid.
Please bee careful doing acid without gloves. A guy in our bee club had skin peeling off his hands. Took a couple weeks to heal.