I have that same engine on my 2012 Gravley stander crazy how much they are so alike ! Wow lol .. anyways I replaced my coils yesterday because i was having a missfire when under load with the PTO on .. so I bought new coils cheap enough these days .. I ran the mower again seems like it’s running. A little better with the flywheel magnet cleaned lol and not all rusty .. but I’m still getting a slight popping not as much though .. if I go slow it’s fine but when I’m trying to cut fast that’s when I hear it .. Im leaning more maybe an electrical issues maybe .. I adjusted the valves the other week they where definitely not in spec so I gapped them to what my gravley manual recommended. .10 - . 15 I went .12 in the middle The the other week i pulled the plugs out and cycled 2 what all wet and carbon build up and cylinder 1 was white and wet so that’s when I said yeah it’s loading up with fuel and not burning that’s why I ordered new coils I check the piston no hole on the top so it’s making compression I think .. I’m going to slap the compression tester on it today .. probably stuff I should of done way before but I was just in a hurry to get it going .. uhh drives me nuts when a engine is not running like it supposed to lol … I will post a update when I find the issue. At this point I have to check everything. It was used but taken care of pretty good though it’s in really nice shape!! Still looks almost brand new ! Only has 1006.3 hrs !! And it’s a 2012! Not bad
Mine has just been doing the same. Bogs down with blades engaged. Adjusted valves with no change. Next will be to put air in cylinders to check for leaks though valves or piston rings. May have run to hot because of the manifold gasket leak. Might need new heads. Will know more soon
Kill switch wire on FJ180v is cRaZy. Easy like yours at the coil end - slip off, slip on -- but it's bolted to a plate near the engine: the bolt passes through an insulation block up top, and underneath it goes through a short thin copper strip bent at one end and cut into a V at the other. I shouldn't have removed that end just left it on and now I have no idea which way round the bend on the strip goes. The PDF is no help. Anyone any ideas?
@@EverydayJourney Great, thanks for getting back to me. I found the method in a Kawasaki shop manual for my engine. It's similar to your method. On my FS600v engine, you line up the left magnet with the left side of the module, and the right side of the magnet with the *center* of the module. I was kind of surprised but it worked out well. My gap is 0.25 mm. Thanks again for the great video!
FLY WHEEL IS RUSTY It would help to sand the flywheel so that the coil can get a good connection. I wish my coils were that easy to get to. I need to drain the coolant , remove radiator.
@@EverydayJourney ... Yes, but the big problem is these companies don't support their products after time goes by. Example... Kawasaki FD791D engine on a Scag mower. Tool # 57001-1500 is no longer available , it plugs in between the ECU and the wiring harness . You can check the whole engine sensors and ECU ( brain) problems but they don't offer it anymore. My opinion is all mowers should come with it . If I can't repair it what good is it ?
Your part about the gap on the ignition coils was what I needed. Thanks dude!
You’re welcome
Thank you for the cardboard gap trick, it saved my day!
It’s not perfect but it works most of the time
Thank you !! My Kawasaki 17hp JD stops after 20 min then cools off and starts. CARB seems fine , gas cap good etc.. so I’m thinking coil ??
Does it seem to run differently before it stops?
I have that same engine on my 2012 Gravley stander crazy how much they are so alike ! Wow lol .. anyways I replaced my coils yesterday because i was having a missfire when under load with the PTO on .. so I bought new coils cheap enough these days .. I ran the mower again seems like it’s running. A little better with the flywheel magnet cleaned lol and not all rusty .. but I’m still getting a slight popping not as much though .. if I go slow it’s fine but when I’m trying to cut fast that’s when I hear it .. Im leaning more maybe an electrical issues maybe .. I adjusted the valves the other week they where definitely not in spec so I gapped them to what my gravley manual recommended. .10 - . 15 I went .12 in the middle
The the other week i pulled the plugs out and cycled 2 what all wet and carbon build up and cylinder 1 was white and wet so that’s when I said yeah it’s loading up with fuel and not burning that’s why I ordered new coils I check the piston no hole on the top so it’s making compression I think .. I’m going to slap the compression tester on it today .. probably stuff I should of done way before but I was just in a hurry to get it going .. uhh drives me nuts when a engine is not running like it supposed to lol … I will post a update when I find the issue. At this point I have to check everything. It was used but taken care of pretty good though it’s in really nice shape!! Still looks almost brand new ! Only has 1006.3 hrs !! And it’s a 2012! Not bad
Mine has just been doing the same. Bogs down with blades engaged. Adjusted valves with no change. Next will be to put air in cylinders to check for leaks though valves or piston rings. May have run to hot because of the manifold gasket leak. Might need new heads. Will know more soon
My Kawasaki is cutting out after it gets hot, do you think it might be the couls
While it could be good to make sure it’s in working order, I don’t think that’s the problem. It could be many things.
Kill switch wire on FJ180v is cRaZy. Easy like yours at the coil end - slip off, slip on -- but it's bolted to a plate near the engine: the bolt passes through an insulation block up top, and underneath it goes through a short thin copper strip bent at one end and cut into a V at the other. I shouldn't have removed that end just left it on and now I have no idea which way round the bend on the strip goes. The PDF is no help. Anyone any ideas?
I guess the air gap is not critical? You used cardboard against the flywheel and not the magnetic spots? Thanks.
Normally I gap it at the magnet and then lock it down.
@@EverydayJourney Great, thanks for getting back to me. I found the method in a Kawasaki shop manual for my engine. It's similar to your method. On my FS600v engine, you line up the left magnet with the left side of the module, and the right side of the magnet with the *center* of the module. I was kind of surprised but it worked out well. My gap is 0.25 mm. Thanks again for the great video!
FLY WHEEL IS RUSTY It would help to sand the flywheel so that the coil can get a good connection.
I wish my coils were that easy to get to. I need to drain the coolant , remove radiator.
The nicer the mower/equipment, the harder and more expensive it is to work on them
@@EverydayJourney ... Yes, but the big problem is these companies don't support their products after time goes by. Example... Kawasaki FD791D engine on a Scag mower. Tool # 57001-1500 is no longer available , it plugs in between the ECU and the wiring harness . You can check the whole engine sensors and ECU ( brain) problems but they don't offer it anymore. My opinion is all mowers should come with it . If I can't repair it what good is it ?
I always change both coils and sand the magnet. Problem solved.
Too thick use a business card