Good video Jahan. If I may add a tip for you. A lot of times alternators fail when the battery is bad. The battery can have good voltage, crank the car over fine but can still be bad. One last check is to monitor the recharge current of the battery. After the car is cranked, the alternator will supply current to the battery to keep it charged while running along with supplying current to the car's load. If you notice, you have two cables going to your negative side of the battery. One is going to the engine block where the alternator is grounded and the other cable is going to the chassis/body ground of the car for the car's load. The total current, (recharge current and car's load current) will come down the engine block ground and part of the current will go through the battery to charge it. The remaining current will go down the chassis/body ground for the car's load. If you clamp an ammeter around both of these negative cables, you'll be reading the recharge current for the battery. Since the currents are going in opposite directions, you'll get the subtraction of the two currents. After starting the car and monitoring the current which will be high to start with, the current will come down as the battery is being recharged. After five minutes, your recharge current should be less than 10 amps. If not, then the battery is bad. So, with a bad battery where it's recharge current is too high, the alternator could fail in a couple of weeks because of supplying too high a recharge current continuously. Take care Jahan and keep up the good work...
Good tips there- must be a time delay I have yet had this vid show up as a new download . I was wondering why the alternator was so hot, the bearings were not seized .
That's a nice, clean example. I remember the older designs, which were a little more complicated, with separate voltage regulators that could be independently swapped. Anyway in this case with overheating it's pretty clearly the device. I suppose if there was a really high drain (with engine on) not protected by a fuse the alternator might have trouble keeping up. When I'm not sure, sometimes I ask the store to test it for me on the bench. Good video!
It would be a great video if you were to pull this one apart. I'd like to see how these are rebuilt, and how to test and replace bad diodes. We throw away too many things....
Good job. Should probably have mentioned the first thing you want to do is check the wiring to ensure there isn't a break between the alternator to battery cable. Alternator had an obvious whine though. Replacement alternator sounds much better, no more whining! Good repair.
***** Yes dear friend you are correct. I checked those parameters off camera before. I was in a little hurry to fix that because the owner of the car, my friend was sick and he was about to make a hospital trip on the same car after fix. Thanks for liking video. Regards,
Smashing job jahan :-)) I would imagine the diode pack on the dead alternator was the reason it gave up, perhaps lol. The replacement alternator looks great for voltage, the old Uni-t multimeter is a handy tool, i have an assortment of really cheap types, they all work well for the minimum components used :-).
zx8401ztv Thank you very much dear friend for liking video. I would dis-mental and will see for possible fault. Seemed burnt winding as I felt smell there. Let us see, I will try to repair and shoot videos on that for knowledge purpose. Uni-t is my somewhat ten years old multimeter and always I am using it for my work. Always worked well for me.
Good job Jahan
Good video Jahan. If I may add a tip for you. A lot of times alternators fail when the battery is bad. The battery can have good voltage, crank the car over fine but can still be bad. One last check is to monitor the recharge current of the battery. After the car is cranked, the alternator will supply current to the battery to keep it charged while running along with supplying current to the car's load. If you notice, you have two cables going to your negative side of the battery. One is going to the engine block where the alternator is grounded and the other cable is going to the chassis/body ground of the car for the car's load. The total current, (recharge current and car's load current) will come down the engine block ground and part of the current will go through the battery to charge it. The remaining current will go down the chassis/body ground for the car's load. If you clamp an ammeter around both of these negative cables, you'll be reading the recharge current for the battery. Since the currents are going in opposite directions, you'll get the subtraction of the two currents. After starting the car and monitoring the current which will be high to start with, the current will come down as the battery is being recharged. After five minutes, your recharge current should be less than 10 amps. If not, then the battery is bad. So, with a bad battery where it's recharge current is too high, the alternator could fail in a couple of weeks because of supplying too high a recharge current continuously. Take care Jahan and keep up the good work...
Good tips there- must be a time delay I have yet had this vid show up as a new download . I was wondering why the alternator was so hot, the bearings were not seized .
That's a nice, clean example. I remember the older designs, which were a little more complicated, with separate voltage regulators that could be independently swapped. Anyway in this case with overheating it's pretty clearly the device. I suppose if there was a really high drain (with engine on) not protected by a fuse the alternator might have trouble keeping up. When I'm not sure, sometimes I ask the store to test it for me on the bench. Good video!
spelunkerd Yes sir, I would disassemble and then will see what is bad inside? Thank you for watching and nice comment. Regards,
It would be a great video if you were to pull this one apart. I'd like to see how these are rebuilt, and how to test and replace bad diodes. We throw away too many things....
+LearningZone what is your opinion on v6 3.8l engine is it practical and good engine ? and can you tell me about the car generally.?
Good job. Should probably have mentioned the first thing you want to do is check the wiring to ensure there isn't a break between the alternator to battery cable. Alternator had an obvious whine though. Replacement alternator sounds much better, no more whining! Good repair.
***** Yes dear friend you are correct. I checked those parameters off camera before. I was in a little hurry to fix that because the owner of the car, my friend was sick and he was about to make a hospital trip on the same car after fix. Thanks for liking video. Regards,
Smashing job jahan :-))
I would imagine the diode pack on the dead alternator was the reason it gave up, perhaps lol.
The replacement alternator looks great for voltage, the old Uni-t multimeter is a handy tool, i have an assortment of really cheap types, they all work well for the minimum components used :-).
zx8401ztv Thank you very much dear friend for liking video. I would dis-mental and will see for possible fault. Seemed burnt winding as I felt smell there. Let us see, I will try to repair and shoot videos on that for knowledge purpose.
Uni-t is my somewhat ten years old multimeter and always I am using it for my work. Always worked well for me.
dear sir wonderful lecture thank you so much
dear sir please guide me For alternator tester how many HP motor use how many rpm thanks for your help
класс!