Hi, do you still need to leave a 2mm gap when installing the motors with the newer revision? or do you just fit it onto the orange plastic spacer with no gaps. Thanks
@@tronicgr Thanks. I have left a gap, but was worried since the new spacer leaves a 2mm gap anyway, I had too big a gap. Have emailed eracing but no reply yet.
Sorry @Thanos Motion Electronics if you have answered me I haven’t seen the reply How do we change settings in the Thanos4u controller? As there is no screen how do we set what we’re changing and is it possible for me to limit the travel from 150mm to say 50mm and how is this done as I don’t need 150mm I’m happy with 50mm Also is it possible to add a display to the Thanos4u?
Hi, I'm wondering why I'm get jittering when my fps drop just tiny bit using MSFS with SRS and e racing rig ? why the motion data connected to FPS, is there a way to minimize or eliminate the issue ? Thanks
With this aasd how much noise difference is there compared to older black ones? Also, are there any sellers who sell those white ones separately? I am thinking of swapping from older to newer.
Night and day difference. The white ones have switching frequency of 16Khz which is virtually really hard to hear. Eracing-lab offers just the white drives if you need to swap the black ones you have: eracing-lab.com/collections/diy-projects/products/aasd-15a-pack
I got my 4 E racing actuators today and for some reason while testing it with RSR studio software, one leg was up in the air while testing hive, roll and pitch. I'm not sure if it's software issue or something else. Thanks
I connected everything based on the instructions. Are the instructions based on seated positions when they talk about Left, right, rear and front ? Thanks@@tronicgr
@@tronicgr I'm considering this, yeah. Just don't have any experience with this so far. Apparently there are a bunch of FTDI drivers available for my Linux PC 🤔
Are you wiring Neutral to ground on the 240v connection? I am wiring my servo drives now. It is my understanding this that 3rd wire(grey) is ground when 120v but becomes neutral when wired for 240v?
I would get a power converter so you can use truly single phase 220v, with Live/Neutral/Ground. When wiring 220v from grid in USA, you essentially wiring two 120v phases through the device, with the Neutral taking the place of ground. But in this case, even if the Neutral doesn't carry current, it still imposes 60v phase difference in perspective to true local ground... complicated but yeah. Just get a power converter from Amazon... a 2000 watt or 3000 watt should be plenty.
@tronicgr thank you for the response. My plan was to leave neutral disconnected and run a separate wire from the drives to my closet track which has screws into the concrete(ground). Am I crazy? Should I stick with the converter as you say?
hi there do you consider these as good as the scorpions other than the scorpion has greater speed at peak and greater load lift i was looking at pt actuators but wondered if these are worth getting instead as they are cheaper
@@dominicrobertdillonbrown9938 both have same speed, same lift loads ability. Just get the eracing-lab ones, half the price and 3 years warranty 🤷♂️ , plus easier to mount. See here a comparison video : th-cam.com/video/xRP77k0-DfQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=LwHjGVrxr1cjviK2
@@tronicgr thanks for replying buddy much appreciated, according to PT they can up speeds to 500mm / s given it looks exactly the same motor i assume the same is likely for these ones aswell given its software controlled yes my bad on weights you are right they are the same i was quoted £16k including vat and shipping for 300mm variants (x7) seemed steep to me given 150mm costs, and if as you say these are cheaper seems a better bet, is 150mm length only ones they do cant see others on website maybe you know
Can you please make a video how to lube E racing lab actuators ? I removed the rubber feet but I'm not sure what to do next. which type of oil, quantity, and where to put it exactly ? Thanks
OH wow... the speed and response seems to be identical to the Scorpion which cost double?! And eRacing Lab sounds a bit better to my ears even with these unfiltered movement!
@@tronicgr So I just have to use the transformer (110v -> 220v)? That is the only thing preventing me from buying these motion systems. Nobody talks about the 110v in America
@@Dronetothetop you don't need transformer. These AASD servos are rated to run on both 110v/220v. I run them on 110v here directly from mains, without problem.
There are several step up converters on Amazon, depending on your system usage, a 2000VA to 3000VA should be enough. Just make sure it has fuse switch, just in case.
@@vikingcat794not much of a problem, there is trade off of lower Amperage using higher voltage. In short there is less power loss on the motors and work to their full spec
@@tronicgr so plugging my drivers into a 110v ups plugged into the output of the step-up doesn't present a problem? And I would leave the drivers set to 220v?
Love your walk through. I installed this a month back and it’s been nothing but a game changer
I have their kit and it's great. Use it every day, almost plug and play and rugged :)
same here. It's been 2 years and has not missed a beat!
Hi, do you still need to leave a 2mm gap when installing the motors with the newer revision? or do you just fit it onto the orange plastic spacer with no gaps. Thanks
@SimVRRacing better to have the gap, but if you are not sure perhaps you can ask eracing lab about it..
@@tronicgr Thanks. I have left a gap, but was worried since the new spacer leaves a 2mm gap anyway, I had too big a gap. Have emailed eracing but no reply yet.
Sorry @Thanos Motion Electronics if you have answered me I haven’t seen the reply
How do we change settings in the Thanos4u controller? As there is no screen how do we set what we’re changing and is it possible for me to limit the travel from 150mm to say 50mm and how is this done as I don’t need 150mm I’m happy with 50mm
Also is it possible to add a display to the Thanos4u?
Hi, I'm wondering why I'm get jittering when my fps drop just tiny bit using MSFS with SRS and e racing rig ? why the motion data connected to FPS, is there a way to minimize or eliminate the issue ? Thanks
With this aasd how much noise difference is there compared to older black ones? Also, are there any sellers who sell those white ones separately? I am thinking of swapping from older to newer.
Night and day difference. The white ones have switching frequency of 16Khz which is virtually really hard to hear. Eracing-lab offers just the white drives if you need to swap the black ones you have: eracing-lab.com/collections/diy-projects/products/aasd-15a-pack
I got my 4 E racing actuators today and for some reason while testing it with RSR studio software, one leg was up in the air while testing hive, roll and pitch. I'm not sure if it's software issue or something else. Thanks
Probably connected actuators in wrong order... Did you check with eracing-lab for instructions?
I connected everything based on the instructions. Are the instructions based on seated positions when they talk about Left, right, rear and front ? Thanks@@tronicgr
Is there a description for the USB protocol used by the Thanos motion controller? Asking because the Windows driver is kinda useless for me :-/
@@BekoPharm it uses FTDI driver for the USB. Are you trying to use it on non windows computer?
@@tronicgr I'm considering this, yeah. Just don't have any experience with this so far. Apparently there are a bunch of FTDI drivers available for my Linux PC 🤔
Are you wiring Neutral to ground on the 240v connection?
I am wiring my servo drives now.
It is my understanding this that 3rd wire(grey) is ground when 120v but becomes neutral when wired for 240v?
I would get a power converter so you can use truly single phase 220v, with Live/Neutral/Ground.
When wiring 220v from grid in USA, you essentially wiring two 120v phases through the device, with the Neutral taking the place of ground. But in this case, even if the Neutral doesn't carry current, it still imposes 60v phase difference in perspective to true local ground... complicated but yeah. Just get a power converter from Amazon... a 2000 watt or 3000 watt should be plenty.
@tronicgr thank you for the response.
My plan was to leave neutral disconnected and run a separate wire from the drives to my closet track which has screws into the concrete(ground).
Am I crazy? Should I stick with the converter as you say?
hi there do you consider these as good as the scorpions other than the scorpion has greater speed at peak and greater load lift i was looking at pt actuators but wondered if these are worth getting instead as they are cheaper
@@dominicrobertdillonbrown9938 both have same speed, same lift loads ability. Just get the eracing-lab ones, half the price and 3 years warranty 🤷♂️ , plus easier to mount. See here a comparison video : th-cam.com/video/xRP77k0-DfQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=LwHjGVrxr1cjviK2
@@tronicgr thanks for replying buddy much appreciated, according to PT they can up speeds to 500mm / s given it looks exactly the same motor i assume the same is likely for these ones aswell given its software controlled yes my bad on weights you are right they are the same i was quoted £16k including vat and shipping for 300mm variants (x7) seemed steep to me given 150mm costs, and if as you say these are cheaper seems a better bet, is 150mm length only ones they do cant see others on website maybe you know
I also can't change any of the settings on the Thanos screen. Maybe I have a bad unit ? Thanks
I’m waiting for my Mega+ with belt tensioner next week 🙃
I run the Eracing system with Thanos controller, it's amazing 😊
How about the cable management any issues there? Looks like it's messier than other options
What module is that from the wiring part
they seem to be much louder then the black one next to each other? How the noise with4 of them?
I'll be making a full review on a rig soon, so we will find out 😁
They are actually much quieter during in-game
th-cam.com/video/DGlWd-c3f0Y/w-d-xo.htmlsi=7kPYJ4tDbQK3i5Wd
Can you please make a video how to lube E racing lab actuators ? I removed the rubber feet but I'm not sure what to do next. which type of oil, quantity, and where to put it exactly ? Thanks
I think the most qualified person to answer that, would be Alex from eRacing Lab. Have you tried to contact them about it?
@evanphotography5149 so do we have to Grease things our selves I thought this was a plug and play kit. Sounds a little more than that
How do you lube/grease the actuator after a while ?
Just need to remove the rubber feet
OH wow... the speed and response seems to be identical to the Scorpion which cost double?! And eRacing Lab sounds a bit better to my ears even with these unfiltered movement!
I prefer raw unfiltered telemetry especially on laser scan tracks
What about 120v in America? What do we do?
@@Dronetothetop works great on 120v (or 110v) doesn't matter, can operate down to 100v
@@tronicgr So I just have to use the transformer (110v -> 220v)? That is the only thing preventing me from buying these motion systems. Nobody talks about the 110v in America
@@Dronetothetop you don't need transformer. These AASD servos are rated to run on both 110v/220v. I run them on 110v here directly from mains, without problem.
What step up converter do you recommend?
There are several step up converters on Amazon, depending on your system usage, a 2000VA to 3000VA should be enough. Just make sure it has fuse switch, just in case.
@@tronicgr my only problem is my UPS is 110v I believe.
@@vikingcat794not much of a problem, there is trade off of lower Amperage using higher voltage. In short there is less power loss on the motors and work to their full spec
@@vikingcat794also helps that many of these power converters have soft start to avoid overloading your UPS.
@@tronicgr so plugging my drivers into a 110v ups plugged into the output of the step-up doesn't present a problem? And I would leave the drivers set to 220v?
Delivery on Brazil?
Shouldn't be a problem. Did you contact eracing-lab about it? eracing-lab.com/collections/rs-series
@@tronicgr Ineed just thanos controller..
5:06 HAVA NAGILA HAVA NAGILA VE NISMAHA