Sr20de hydraulic lifter / hydraulic lash adjuster - service flushing and bleeding - explained
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2024
- Sr20de hydraulic lifter servicing and explanation. How to clean old lifters (lash adjusters), flushing, and bleeding. Often times it is very easy to confuse chain clunk with lifter tap on older Sr20de engines. This video is specific to the majority of these motors that came with a hydraulic lifter assembly. Before installing serviced lifters, be sure to bleed ALL of the air out of them before reinstalling.
I would also recommend that in the process of bleeding extremely dirty lifters/lash adjusters, that you start off using Kerosene instead of clean motor oil for servicing. This will ensure carbon deposits are cleaned out even better inside the assembly. You should drain all Kerosene before bleeding the lifters with clean oil, then reinstalling into the engine.
I recommend this service between every 75,000 through 100,000 mile intervals and depending upon how frequently the engine oil is changed on your vehicle. The Nissan FSM's recommend reinstalling the lifters full of clean engine oil and free from any internal air.
Parts you may need:
SR20DE FWD Valve Cover Gasket : www.amazon.com...
SR20DE FWD Replacement Lash Adjusters : www.amazon.com...
Thanks for the video. I am going to clean my lifters this weekend I have sounds like one ticking. So I will do them all. One at a time though. I don’t have. Micro to check the shim. So one out with one shim so I do t get them mixed up. 1991 Silvia.
Yep, stay organized, put everything back on exactly as it came off, you'll be fine. Good luck.
Nissan says that max movement is 1mm for a good lifter, also you need to store them vertically for the det
Spent half the day looking for a video that really describe these lifters. Yours is the only one I found so far. The one question I still have is why Kawasaki wants the lifter soaked in kerosene instead of oil. I would think a good cleaner better than kerosene and then oil would be the best option Thank you very much.
+Zane's Vids Appreciate the comment and the question, if using any type of cleaner other than clean oil, make sure you flush the lash adjuster/lifter enough, so that the only thing left in it when you install it back into the motor is oil. The tolerance of the lifter is designed not to collapse when it is full of oil, if there is any cleaner of a viscosity or thickness less than the oil recommended by the manufacturer, you may find the lash adjuster/lifter will fail. That's why I recommend to clean/flush using clean oil. Hope that answers your question.
Thanks for this video I'm not doing this on sr20 but I did have an old 2s motor for my Toyota camry and I'm sure this is the same info can be used towards it. (It has valve lash adjustors to) Haynes manual for it didn't go into much detail for this and it was nice you did a little walk through. Ty
James Collins Sorry for the late response, hope servicing the hydraulic lash on your Toyota went well.
Hi Tony - I was told that ultrasonic cleaning was a good method - have you ever tried it or is it worth the extra effort?
Yes, if you have access to a unit that can perform the service properly, these are built quite strong, so the vibrations shouldn't cause any issues with the adjusters mechanically.
If you're looking to do this on the cheap, cleaning these out as I've shown will get the job done for the next 100k along with regular oil changes.
Thank you for the video. I heard about the process, but this is the first time that I've seen it. I'm troubleshooting an issue that may be a sticky lifter in a SR20DET. Have you worked with Sea Foam? I was thinking about giving it a try before pulling the lifters.
+D Puorro , sure seafoam is a good product, when you use it correctly. Make sure the engine is warm before you use it for best results right before an oil change. Let the engine run for about 10 minutes hot with the seafoam in the oil, then drain it right away. Replace with new oil and filter. It may take a few oil changes for this process to effectively wash out all of the gum/sludge in the lifters.
On a side note, some SR20DET heads came with solid lash adjusters (lifters), so this process described may not apply to some SR20DET engines. I'm more familiar with the FWD SR20 heads, and I know for a fact, the Gtir head off the Pulsar uses solid lash adjusters. In that case, you may need to get a shim kit to eliminate the valve tap you might be experiencing.
Thanks Anthony. I'll double check, but I'm pretty sure that the RWD S13 version of the Blacktop SR20DET is hydraulic. The Sea Foam seemed to fix the sticking, but after pulling the oil pan, I think the motor may need a full inspection and rebuild.
Would a sticking lifter cause a reduction in oil pressure or is it a symptom?
+D Puorro , not really sure how you are determining low oil pressure, are you using an aftermarket gauge, if so, where is it hooked up? If you are running the gauge off the turbo feed line, keep in mind there are usually reducers that will ease the oil pressure so you don't blow your turbo seals. So pressure may appear to be low depending on how the car (gauge) has been set up.
Pull your oil pan and check the pickup, a clogged or bent pickup (caused by a dented oil pan) will cause low oil pressure, a poor seal between the pickup and the pump assembly itself will also cause poor pressure.
If you use thicker oil in the car and noticed increased oil pressure, there is a good chance the pump assembly itself could be worn out. If there is no difference between heavier weight oil and the standard stuff, I would say the problem is somewhere between the pickup and pump assembly itself.
Most likely, poor oil pressure is not caused by a sticking lifter/lash adjuster.
Thanks for the info! Thicker oil definitely increases the pressure with the motor. It's an AEM gauge attached to the stock sender point by the filter. Pulled the pan and the pickup looks good. Gasket looks good, but I'm not sure how to tell for sure. Due to the age of the motor and some metal shavings, I'm going to pull the motor, replace all the gaskets and go through everything before the end of the year.
Hey bud, love the Video. As everyone else is saying; I'm troubleshooting a bad lifter in my sr20det head. Rattles under load from 1000-3500rpm and its horrible. From the same place the noise is coming from It also reads 50psi lower compression. In the leakdown it showed leakout from the intake valves on cylinder4
Basically my question is: do faulty/ sticky lifters cause a loss in compression? My compression reads:
Cyl 1: 150
Cyl 2: 150
Cyl 3: 150
Cyl 4: 100
It misfires on idle, and the spark plug is always fowled in cylinder 4.
If you need anymore info please tell me, cheers.
Ps: engine runs beautifully except for misfire
Looks like your comment accidentally got caught up in my potential "spam" comments. So first off sorry for the late response. The short answer to your question is that faulty/sticky lifters will NOT cause a loss in compression. Lost compression is typically from bent valves, valves that do not set properly in the head, or poor piston rings no longer within spec tolerance.
How do you know if loss of compression is due to the valves or the pistons, the best way to do this without opening the engine is to run a dry versus wet compression test. Any significant improvement in the wet test over the dry test typically will point your compression issue to the piston. Negligible/no significant difference from the wet test usually means you have something going on with the valves.
Good luck, and hopefully this helps.
toekneefurareoh Better late than never :) turns out my lifters seized on the intake side, and my rings went aswell. Unsure what happend but im guessing something oil related failed, due to my turbo blowing aswell :/
Long story short ive replaced the drivetrain completely with fresh parts and a fresh motor. Not long now till its back on the road :) cheers
Hello , yes 2019!! what if none of the ones that are mounted move at all i even hit them with a hammer and no movement like they are solid rock.
Im also have not been able to open the lock on the inside to clean them ...
Regards.
Not sure if I understand completely, but please do NOT go hitting your lash adjusters with a hammer.
You will need to find something slim and long enough that slides through the top (upward) facing pinhole of the lash adjuster. Center that pin and push down, you will feel something internally move. The lash adjuster is then unlocked, and you will be able to compress or move it to suck new fluid in and to push the old fluid out. I know that all Nissan, Mitsubishi (or DSM) early 90's - 2000's work this way.
@@toekneefurareoh Assuming you didn't destroy it with the god damn hammer.... Use a bench vice, with rubber jaws, to slowly compress it and it will bleed out the oil.
How can I tell between needing a cleaning or a failed lifter? I was told to replace all 8.
tmaxjesse , rare for a hydraulic lash adjuster to “fail” but not impossible. I would say any visible damage to the lash adjuster/lifter due to excessive tapping between top of the lifter and inner portion of the rocker = replace the lifter and potentially the rocker. If when the lifter is pulled and examined, and it has lost its ability to “lock out” like I’ve shown in the video there is probably some internal failure of the lifter itself. Otherwise the main goal is to keep consistent lash (or tolerance) between the cam lobe and the rocker, if that clearance or lash is out of spec and the rocker is just floating around in the engine then both the rocker and lash adjuster should be further inspected. It is typically rare for something like this to happen without a car constantly running on low oil or a complete oil pump failure. And in most of those cases rod or main bearings will fail before the lifter/lash adjuster does.
Just a quickie, didn`t catch it in the video: Did you put these back on the engine full of oil? I completed my sr20det rebuild some months ago and I installed them full of oil (cleaned them the same way you did, though). But some people put them in empty?
Always reinstall hydraulic lash/lifters on an SR20 engine full of oil, the objective is to remove all of the air in the process above. Some SR20DET engines use solid lifters and do not require this service after long periods of time, but should be inspected, and replaced as necessary with a correct shim kit. All SR20DE engines use hydraulic lifters (even the roller rocker style engines).
The factory service manual should reinforce what I said above. Good luck!
Anthony F Okay, good to hear. Thank you.
Hi
I got a SR20DE with roller rockers but my lifters don't move at all! I assume I got solid lifters. would that be possible?
Thanks a lot a great video
So when i'm reinstalling the lifters is there an orientation that the little hole has to go in?
No there is not, the heads and lash adjusters are machined to accept positive oil pressure regardless of the orientation.
I did this the other way on a Chevy LS1 in my car over 2 years as I have been living on unemployment benefits over here in Australia and the engines valves are pushrod operated,the hydraulic lifters are also underneath the cylinder heads which means if you have no money for cylinder head gaskets,an inlet manifold seal kit,exhaust manifold gaskets & cylinder head bolts there is no option to do it the other way , either flush the engine out with 1 litre of diesel or kerosene by idling the engine for 15 minutes before dumping the oil out of the sump with that in it or add a product such as the Wynns engine tune up & oil stabilizer to an engine with clean oil (recently changed) or both as I did.
That was a pain in the backside for me as every 3000 or so kilometres after an oil & filter change the lifters would start to "clack" (due to the sludge breaking up & entering the hydraulic lifters), I also looked at the possible cause of the lifters having varnish inside of them,sure enough , it took 2 bottles of the Wynns product to notice a change in engine smoothness at idle & an increase in performance,I ended up using 5 bottles of the Wynns product.
I noticed when driving up a hill slowly,the exhaust lifter on number 8 cylinder would start to "clack" , this was caused by sludge trapped inside the oil gallery so what I did a fortnight ago is add about 900 mLs of diesel to the old engine oil whilst the car was parked up on a hill sideways so all of the sludge would gravitate down into the oil filter, I had previously removed the oil drain plug and pulled out a whole lot of dirt particles which was trapped inside the oil gallery & in the oil.
So I started off on a clean slate with a very clean motor & a new oil filter,there was an issue with the lifter still "clacking" but a few big revs cleaned most of the lifter out (oil hole was still restricted),so in an engine with very clean engine oil,the lifter would like the lifter in the right container ,all the rubbish would be coming out of the lifter like that.
How did the noise start? , Well , I replaced the oil pan gasket in 2013 as it was leaking oil,the main oil feed is sealed off by this gasket so the top end must've lost oil flow through the lifters till it became a mere dribble,once the oil pressure increased a chunks of sludge must've been disturbed, some of the fine grains of dust probably got past the lifters & entered the oil galleries thus blocking the lifters up, the lifters may have been running as solids rather than hydraulic roller cam lifters for a lot of years and the increased oil pressure actually disturbed that.
The engine probably also missed a few oil changes before I bought the car in 2008,I didn't add any more of that Wynns product as I am confident the engine no longer needs is,there is only a lifter tick there sometimes on that lifter on startup which goes away in a second or two so I am just going to let that sort itself out as I don't think the engine has any more of that sludge left in it as do a few people locally.
As far as lifter servicing goes, I am not aware of any service procedure for them as the lifters should remain clean as will the whole engine if the oil is changed regularly,I normally change mine at 5000 - 6000 kilometres but have done more regularly as the oil has come out really dirty,my dads car has the 2000 model 3.8 litre Buick V6 fitted and still looks like a brand new engine at over 346,000 kilometres when looking into the oil filler hole,it however needs another cylinder head as it has suffered valve recession on number 2 cylinders exhaust valve from the use of LPG (liquified petroluem gas),the LS1 engine is approaching 313,000 kilometres and looks clean under around the valve springs but underneath the cylinder head where the lifters are is where all of the sludge was.
+Russell Booth Thanks for the comment, yes on different engines, sludge buildup can occur even in instances where the engine is well maintained and when the oil is changed during recommended intervals. Luckily the Nissan SR20 engines were built really well, and its pretty rare to have this problem.
In the instance of the motor I was working on in this video, sludge wasn't a problem due to poor engine design, just the previous owner not staying on top of the oil changes. Unfortunately, even flushing the engine with cleaners still wasn't fixing the issues of valve tick I was experiencing.
So by pulling off the valve cover, locking the cams gears to the timing chain with some zip ties, and removing the cams, I had very easy access to my lash adjusters/lifters in about 30 minutes, about another 30-40 minutes to flush them like I explain in the video, about another 30 minutes to reinstall everything, and the motor was much more quiet.
But I do recommend if you can find a cleaner to flush your engine oil on the next oil change before taking it apart, give that a try first, you might get lucky.
Maybe a stupid question but an sr20 has 8 lifters right?
Generally speaking, yes. 4 on the intake side, 4 on the exhaust side. Most non-turbo DE variations of the motor use hydraulic lash adjusters/lifters. These are removed by pulling the camshafts, taking off the rockers, and the pulling the adjusters/lifters out of the head.
@@toekneefurareoh Would a special tool work to remove the SR20 lash adjusters without pulling the camshafts? th-cam.com/video/2GnPt_xK3-g/w-d-xo.html
@@soundhill1 no, in a traditional SR20DE or SR20DET head, you must pull the cams to get access to the lash adjusters/lifters. No other way around it.
In the neo/vvl heads, its much different, but I won't go into detail here on how those heads work (no lash adjusters/lifters).