Your regular reminder that Rowan needs our help if this channel is to continue. Please become a Velocipedian to thank him and allow him to continue sharing his knowledge and passion with us.
Thank you, I appreciate you taking the time to show the chaincase removal and difference between the superbe frame and cameo etc. Kindest regards Martin
Thanks a lot, Watched the whole vid, very interesting & happy to see you remove the enclosed chain case. This has always scared me to remove but feel bit more comfortable to dismantle it, thanks to you. Amazed at your knowledge, & expertise ;you spotted immediately that the little nut is not original & telling exactly what the original should have looked like.am impressed.
Another splendid video, thank you. Didn't know about replacing the 'caged' bearing with loose balls (top tip). I assume the cotter cranks are the same internally? You briefly mentioned wheel maintenance .... a decent video on wheels/spokes would be nice; have you done one? Stay well and thanks for sharing.
It must be bottom bracket season :) I've just done my Pashley "path cruiser", though I cheated and fitted a sealed bearing cartridge (a bit easier to get for mine than a Raleigh). Great tip about getting rid of the caged bearings for loose balls and sticky grease (but not as sticky as the dried stuff in the second bike lol); much less load on each bearing and much less wear. I do appreciate full chaincases but when you need to do any work it adds so much time to remove and refit.
Chain cases make maintenance more difficult and time comsuming, sure. The alternative however is doing more maintenance on the chain (the dirtiest of jobs usually).
My Raleigh DL-1's chaincase is very fiddly to fit and remove. It doesn't part at all at its rear; it's solid. One must remove the bolt-on seatstay to slip the chaincase on and off.
Being that the bike was ŕidden with a broken ball race on the drive side it's likely the cup wear bearing track would be worn therefore it it's advisable to replace the entire cups axle and bearings the old missing ball will be located in the drive chain stay and could rattle around post repair. Chain adjustment done at rear ďropouts whilst the chaincase is removed
Hello sir and thanks for the video! I just found a similar model and I'd like to repair it. It seems they abandoned it for an issue with the bottom bracket. Now, I don't have the experience to go through all the steps of the procedure you show and I'm afraid mechanics won't try to repair it because "it's too old". Would you be so kind to suggest a pre-made new bracket that could be easily installed in sostitution? Thank you so much in advance!
Hello again, just a feedback. I discovered a metal ring screwed in the frame, where the crankset was installed. Then I also found the hexagonal part (supposed closing the bracket) loose in the chaincase. Obviously the ring prevents me from installing the new bracket set and I don't have an instrument to rub away the ring. It's also impossible to rebuild the original bracket because I can't close the frame. Hope local workshops will provide a solution.
I buy standard greaae from car parts shops. The tub in the video is nearly empty and is so old I can’t tell you the specs or brand! I also have a jar of white lithium grease and a small cartridge gun of Weldtite bicycle grease for when I want to squirt some in somewhere. You will see that in the next Superbe overhaul video in a few days
I use kluber grease on all the bearings as it has a lower dampening resistance on the feel of the bearings so it makes everything spin easier. It's on Amazon sold in tubes. Expensive but worth it.
I suspect our host uses the same as me, Castrol LM2 high melting point Lithium Grease, or unbranded equivalent, as sold for car wheel bearings & filling grease guns, 500g for less than the silly tube of grease sold in bike shops. My oil can gets filled with inexpensive (non synthetic) car engine oil. There's almost nothing on an old single or 3 speed bike that automotive lubricants don't work well for at a fraction of the cost of things labelled for bicycles. The chain on a modern derailleur setup is about the only thing I'd consider buying anything specialist for, & that's more about mess reduction than any actual better lubricating properties.
@@Velocipedium actually 'ওঁ' or 'OM' is a very Holy word among Hindu religion in india. Every Hindu people first say 'OM' then started their prayer for God 🙏. It is also a sign of good luck also.
Exactly. It is also used in Buddhist meditation, which is my connection to it. The three symbols AUM joined, symbolising the whole universe in one word.
And easy way to cheat and probably not the best idea but it works is poor a bit of thick oil down the seat tube. It will work its way down to the bearings.
@@Velocipedium Thanks for the video, I had to regrind the spindle on mine to get the galling out. I shaped the radius on the wheel to match the spindle. It worked good.
That little thread of white towel in the 2nd bottom bracket was getting to me - was almost yelling at the screen to give it another wipe!
Your regular reminder that Rowan needs our help if this channel is to continue.
Please become a Velocipedian to thank him and allow him to continue sharing his knowledge and passion with us.
love watching you fettle those wonderful vintage bikes. Very informative & enjoyable, thanks!
Go ahead,, make my day. Another Velocipedium video, another thumbs up. All the best.
Thank you, I appreciate you taking the time to show the chaincase removal and difference between the superbe frame and cameo etc.
Kindest regards Martin
For metric machanics: the left cup needs a 24mm (= 15/16") spanner.
Good video I’ve been working on an awkward Raleigh loop frame bottom bracket ,
Thanks a lot, Watched the whole vid, very interesting & happy to see you remove the enclosed chain case. This has always scared me to remove but feel bit more comfortable to dismantle it, thanks to you. Amazed at your knowledge, & expertise ;you spotted immediately that the little nut is not original & telling exactly what the original should have looked like.am impressed.
Another splendid video, thank you. Didn't know about replacing the 'caged' bearing with loose balls (top tip). I assume the cotter cranks are the same internally? You briefly mentioned wheel maintenance .... a decent video on wheels/spokes would be nice; have you done one? Stay well and thanks for sharing.
It must be bottom bracket season :) I've just done my Pashley "path cruiser", though I cheated and fitted a sealed bearing cartridge (a bit easier to get for mine than a Raleigh). Great tip about getting rid of the caged bearings for loose balls and sticky grease (but not as sticky as the dried stuff in the second bike lol); much less load on each bearing and much less wear. I do appreciate full chaincases but when you need to do any work it adds so much time to remove and refit.
Chain cases make maintenance more difficult and time comsuming, sure. The alternative however is doing more maintenance on the chain (the dirtiest of jobs usually).
very interesting film !!!
My Raleigh DL-1's chaincase is very fiddly to fit and remove. It doesn't part at all at its rear; it's solid. One must remove the bolt-on seatstay to slip the chaincase on and off.
Being that the bike was ŕidden with a broken ball race on the drive side it's likely the cup wear bearing track would be worn therefore it it's advisable to replace the entire cups axle and bearings the old missing ball will be located in the drive chain stay and could rattle around post repair. Chain adjustment done at rear ďropouts whilst the chaincase is removed
@@davidbutler8574 I think you may have replied to the wrong comment.
How can you do the chain adjustment with the he chaincase removed? How would you refit the chaincase with the chain on and wheel in?
Replace chaincase reverse of removal, correct chain tension should have been done when you added larger sprocket
It was, but I had to calculate the extra link, then the fact that the wheel
Was too far forward. I explained in the video. The bike is perfect now
Just started watching your videos thanks
Are you on Facebook
Yes. My page is The Velocipedium
@@Velocipedium thanks
i took my 68 year old bike to bike shop took me 3 hours to walk home i hope they can get the chainset off its called a glockentretlager
All the riding in the dirt- you need a bigger tire!! I love the trails BTW. Very nice.
I always wanted to tell whenever I see your superbe. From where did you get the mud flap?. Just curious to see the bicycle store mentioned on it
It’s from a bicycle shop in Kerala, India. I have a top tube protector to match, and another mudflap waiting for a bike
Hello sir and thanks for the video! I just found a similar model and I'd like to repair it. It seems they abandoned it for an issue with the bottom bracket. Now, I don't have the experience to go through all the steps of the procedure you show and I'm afraid mechanics won't try to repair it because "it's too old". Would you be so kind to suggest a pre-made new bracket that could be easily installed in sostitution? Thank you so much in advance!
Any standard cartridge bottom bracket will do.
You need Square Taper, 115mm axle length.
But you will need a tool to install it, which one depends on the make of the bb.
Hello again, just a feedback. I discovered a metal ring screwed in the frame, where the crankset was installed. Then I also found the hexagonal part (supposed closing the bracket) loose in the chaincase. Obviously the ring prevents me from installing the new bracket set and I don't have an instrument to rub away the ring. It's also impossible to rebuild the original bracket because I can't close the frame. Hope local workshops will provide a solution.
I thought you had found the missing ball from the other bike.
Out of interest what grease do you use? Everything I find online seems to come in very small tubs or tubes no good for a job like this.
Thanks
I buy standard greaae from car parts shops. The tub in the video is nearly empty and is so old I can’t tell you the specs or brand! I also have a jar of white lithium grease and a small cartridge gun of Weldtite bicycle grease for when I want to squirt some in somewhere. You will see that in the next Superbe overhaul video in a few days
I use kluber grease on all the bearings as it has a lower dampening resistance on the feel of the bearings so it makes everything spin easier. It's on Amazon sold in tubes. Expensive but worth it.
I suspect our host uses the same as me, Castrol LM2 high melting point Lithium Grease, or unbranded equivalent, as sold for car wheel bearings & filling grease guns, 500g for less than the silly tube of grease sold in bike shops. My oil can gets filled with inexpensive (non synthetic) car engine oil. There's almost nothing on an old single or 3 speed bike that automotive lubricants don't work well for at a fraction of the cost of things labelled for bicycles. The chain on a modern derailleur setup is about the only thing I'd consider buying anything specialist for, & that's more about mess reduction than any actual better lubricating properties.
What about ওঁ in background ?
That is a sticker on my Gazelle Toer Populair. You will see it soon
@@Velocipedium actually 'ওঁ' or 'OM' is a very Holy word among Hindu religion in india. Every Hindu people first say 'OM' then started their prayer for God 🙏. It is also a sign of good luck also.
Exactly. It is also used in Buddhist meditation, which is my connection to it. The three symbols AUM joined, symbolising the whole universe in one word.
@@Velocipedium yes Buddhism and Hinduism are very deeply concerned to each other .And there is many similarities in ther rituals and festivals.
And easy way to cheat and probably not the best idea but it works is poor a bit of thick oil down the seat tube. It will work its way down to the bearings.
Yes it’s an old school hack. You need to be sure that you have a hole in the lug though. Welded frames don’t work!
@@Velocipedium Thanks for the video, I had to regrind the spindle on mine to get the galling out. I shaped the radius on the wheel to match the spindle. It worked good.
You are more patient than i am, with a drawer full of spares, I’m lazy!