Believe it or not, when I was in the Navy, I was stationed on the USS Nimitz. At that time, the "Jolly Rodgers" (VF-84) were also assigned to the Nimitz. Nice job as always!!!
I make this model .... with all the Walkaround necessary ! First , the nose is wrong , must be shorter with a "Greek nose" . So I cut the intake , filled the gap , sand all the putty.... what a job ! next replace the guns ports with aluminium micro tube from Albion ( perfect stuff ! ) must be 3° downward .... I cut the leading edges to the open position ( FJ2 and 3 version) . Scratch build all landing gears with Albion tube and chrome piston ! The résult is stuning but a lot of sweat and nervous breakdown .....!!! However , many thanks to Sword team for this kit . I own about their entire production , as they are the only to produce those models !!!
The GSB Furys were NOT IFR capable. The refueling probe was on the latter Gray over White scheme FJ-3 and 3M. His corogard leading edges are absurdly big. It was a really thin strip along the leading edge. And yes, the nose is bad. Not the builder's fault but the guy who designed the kit. I would get an Emhar FJ-4 kit and graft their nose on the Sword kit. Much more accurate. I work in 1/48 and the Kitty Hawk/ZIMI FJ-2 and 3/3M kits are the best to build an accurate 2/3 Fury.
Wow, that is a good looking Fury! One of my favorite Cold War era Navy jets. I was curious about this kit, so it's good to know that it goes together well. Great build and happy modeling!
Great build and video: I love the no-nonsense approach. I have built a few Sword kits and really like them. One characteristic they have is a very glossy, shiny surface. I usually rough it up a little with #2000 abrasive paper to give the paint something to grip. There are some early Sword kits... Helldiver, Fw190A-1... that are a bit more crude and need extra care building. But always the end result is superb. I can't abide the trench panel lines on Airfix kits after Sword. Thanks!
Yeah, I've added a few more sword kits to my stash and have recently added some Special Hobby kits, which have a similar feel to them. Quite pleased with the experiences I've had with them. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
@@HammerheadModelMaking Oh, you will love them. One thing with many of these kits is triple checking the fuselage will close. The stuff in it... cockpits, bulkheads etc... can push the halves apart. I have a theory the fuselage halves end up too thick due to moulding process. But as you point out, its all about just checking alignment, flattening the mating surfaces, removing pin marks etc. Y'know... MODELLING! In almost all cases you can trust the engineering of the kit parts to fit once you remove the plastic not needed. And in return you get superb surface detail, top quality decals, first class cockpits and wheel wells... and interesting subjects. Keep up the good work.
Nice one! I'm decalling up my Sword Lightning right now, and can only echo your findings. I will say, compared to the Airfix Lightning the Sword requires (probably) a bit more modelling to make but the results are so much less heavy handed, plus in the UK the kit is about 30% cheaper inc resin/Eduard PE/masks. I too will be exploring more of their catalogue.
Wow really nice clean build on your Fury and a Sword kit no less. I enjoy your narratives and the way you do your videos as well as the final results, just subscribed! 👍
watching the Jolly Rogers collection videos with the complete decal set with great envy (I plan on doing a 1:48 Golden Dragons lineage at some point and I'm gonna have to learn how to make my own decals for the F6F-5, F9F-8, and FJ-4B because nobody makes any sets I can find for that squadron on those specific planes, let alone complete sets for the entire lineage)
Damn! Beautiful build Hammerhead. Until now I never knew I needed a Fury 😂 Lovely job, they aren't the easiest kits to work with but this is a fantastic result. Subbed too.
Beautiful work. I think your assumption about the painted silver is accurate, my logic is that as a Navy aircraft, and the constant battle against seawater corrosion, bare metal surfaces would be a high risk
Thanks for the video, another great learning experience for me. I struggle with decals and getting them to "embed". Is the Walthers prodcut effective? Looks like it from your final reveal. I need to learn more about gloss painting, then apply the decal, then embddeding and, then another coat of flat? or gloss depending on the project? Cheers
The Walthers Solvaset is really strong, much stronger than Tamiya or Micro Sol/Set. So I usually do a small test on a decal that wont be used when I'm using it on a new kit, just to be sure. I've had times when I've applied too much and it melted the decal. But when it works it works great, most of the time I only need one application and the decals just snuggle down. Two at the most for stubborn decals, including Tamiya decals. As for the other part of your question, my normal order of operations is: *All your paint work Gloss Decals Gloss Panel Wash Final coat (Matte/satin/gloss depending on the project) Final weathering (oils and such) Hope that helps. It works for me, may not be everyone's cup of tea though.
I'm really impressed with your close ups, especially the seat belts with the masking tape. There's a great amount of detail considering he zoom. Do you mind me asking which camera you use? I'm using a kiyo Razer presently but I'm finding it's limiting my ability to capture detail and light properly. - Jeff
Thank you very much! I just use my iPhone for all of my filming. I have an iPhone SE and film it at 1080p. I find that the iPhone handles close up stuff better than other cameras I've tried. Additionally, I have a few LED light panels that I use for lighting.
I really like your aircraft and whatnot choose to do. One thing with a blue is that the base or primer should be a lighter color than black. It's just too dark. Especially in 72nd scale. Just my 2 cents. Either way. It's enjoyable.
Just rewatching this build, great job as always. Can i ask what sort of thinning ratios you are using for your tamiya paints? yours just seemed to go on so effortlessly and quick. Also do the Vallejo metal colours need any thinning to get then to flow well? i can never seem to get a consistent 'good' ratio with their standard air metallics, so ive been thinking about get some of the metal colours as they just seem to work well in everything ive seen them used in
With Tamiya paints I usually start around 15-20% thinner and adjust as needed, and Make sure you are using the X-20 thinner, that stuff does wonders, in fact, I've started using that to thin all of my acrylic paints and its great. As for the Vallejo metal colors I've generally found them to be airbrush ready and don't need any thinning, and usually spray them around 15-20 psi.
@@HammerheadModelMaking Thank you for the info, i will try this wheni m airbrushing next. Currently making up a Hobbyboss 1/72 SU-47 Berkut so i will definitely try these ratio's when putting the black main body colour down. Thanks again, really enjoy your videos
Very nice build. I too am a Jolly Roger builder collector. Which Squadron flew the Jolly Roger with the Fury? Was it VF-61? I would l ask because I would like to find some 1/48 scale Jolly Roger decals for a 1/48 FJ-3.
Yes, it was VF-61. The only real information I have is that they were attached to USS Lake Champlain, June 1955. However, I cannot verify this 100%, although I do not have any reason to doubt this is inaccurate.
Another very nice build, my favourite so far was the f8f. PS how did you manage to get through not one but two Tamiya extra thin cement 40ml bottles 😮?
Because I am usually working on more than one project at once, and there was actually a significant pause about halfway through this build where I worked on a commission project. So, that would explain the glue!
I am watching you spray, and because i have the same airbrush, only gravity feed...with how much pressure do you paint vallejos?? (i can't paint these colors with the same skill as i paint tamiya and gunze)..i mean the airbrush needle is way back...like clogging colors??
@@HammerheadModelMaking great thanks! maybe that is the secret, that is why i asked. If you want, try to dilute them with the Vallejo airbrush cleaner, maybe they will be sprayed better, you can let us know in the next video if it worked better
I'm new at model building, and I have been watching your channel for a couple of weeks now. I have mostly been doing model cars and trucks but after watching you I want to do a plane, out of the box are all plane models tail sitters? I'm in my 60s and I did do a A10 Warthog way back in my 20s and I can't remember if it was a tail sitter.
So, not all planes will be tail sitters, obviously the tail draggers don't have this issue, but aircraft with conventional landing gear are prone to being tail sitters. I've found that if you are doing a modern jet, they typically don't have any balance issues, but earlier jets and many multi engine ww2 aircraft can suffer from this problem, the trouble is, its hard to tell which ones will be tail sitters until you get it put together, so I've just gotten in the habit of adding weight "just in case".
Time isn't the issue, its where to put a 1/32 aircraft when its done. Although, that being said, HK models just released a 1/32 A-20 and I'm REALLY tempted to get it.
Thanks for the like, I've definitely learned to turn the volume down on my intro in my more recent videos, but I'm kind of fond of the music and will probably keep it.
Thanks! I have an M-60 build and an M1A1 build planned, but I need to work through some commissions that all happen to be aircraft, but they are coming! Oh, and also a US T34 Heavy tank in a "What If" diorama.
The later swept wing FJ Furies looked much like the F-86, but the F-86 in fact had its origin as an Air Force-adapted development of the Navy's Fury, rather than the FJ being a navalised F-86. The silvery stuff on the leading edges was a corrosion control agent called Corogard (tailspintopics.blogspot.com/2012/01/corogard.html ). Tailspin Topics is a great site to check before embarking on any historic U.S. Navy modelling project if you're striving for accuracy.
Believe it or not, when I was in the Navy, I was stationed on the USS Nimitz. At that time, the "Jolly Rodgers" (VF-84) were also assigned to the Nimitz. Nice job as always!!!
I do believe it! And thats really cool, I have a few more VF-84 Tomcats I want to build!
I was in the Navy, and I was on an Oiler and in 1987 and we were in the Nimitz battle group and we pumped a lot of JP-5 to the Nimitz.
I make this model .... with all the Walkaround necessary ! First , the nose is wrong , must be shorter with a "Greek nose" . So I cut the intake , filled the gap , sand all the putty.... what a job ! next replace the guns ports with aluminium micro tube from Albion ( perfect stuff ! ) must be 3° downward .... I cut the leading edges to the open position ( FJ2 and 3 version) . Scratch build all landing gears with Albion tube and chrome piston ! The résult is stuning but a lot of sweat and nervous breakdown .....!!! However , many thanks to Sword team for this kit . I own about their entire production , as they are the only to produce those models !!!
Wow, sounds like you really put a lot of work in your build, I bet it looks great!
The GSB Furys were NOT IFR capable. The refueling probe was on the latter Gray over White scheme FJ-3 and 3M. His corogard leading edges are absurdly big. It was a really thin strip along the leading edge. And yes, the nose is bad. Not the builder's fault but the guy who designed the kit. I would get an Emhar FJ-4 kit and graft their nose on the Sword kit. Much more accurate. I work in 1/48 and the Kitty Hawk/ZIMI FJ-2 and 3/3M kits are the best to build an accurate 2/3 Fury.
1/72 scale! If I hadn't just watched you build it and you'd told me it was 1/48 I would have believed you.
Very nice, thanks.
Thanks man, I appreciate that! I would love to build one of these in 1/48 scale!
Absolutely beautiful job! Thank you so much for not overdoing the panel lines! this looks realistic!!!
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching!
Oh Mate... Thanks for use my "Cut then Add" decal 😊
If those decals are yours, I love them! I've used them on 6 different projects now, and have a few more down the line!
can you do more VF/VFA-102 please 😬
@@fishnchips5826 maybe
Wow, that is a good looking Fury! One of my favorite Cold War era Navy jets. I was curious about this kit, so it's good to know that it goes together well. Great build and happy modeling!
Great! Thanks for watching!
Great build and video: I love the no-nonsense approach. I have built a few Sword kits and really like them. One characteristic they have is a very glossy, shiny surface. I usually rough it up a little with #2000 abrasive paper to give the paint something to grip. There are some early Sword kits... Helldiver, Fw190A-1... that are a bit more crude and need extra care building. But always the end result is superb.
I can't abide the trench panel lines on Airfix kits after Sword. Thanks!
Yeah, I've added a few more sword kits to my stash and have recently added some Special Hobby kits, which have a similar feel to them. Quite pleased with the experiences I've had with them. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
@@HammerheadModelMaking Oh, you will love them. One thing with many of these kits is triple checking the fuselage will close. The stuff in it... cockpits, bulkheads etc... can push the halves apart. I have a theory the fuselage halves end up too thick due to moulding process. But as you point out, its all about just checking alignment, flattening the mating surfaces, removing pin marks etc. Y'know... MODELLING! In almost all cases you can trust the engineering of the kit parts to fit once you remove the plastic not needed.
And in return you get superb surface detail, top quality decals, first class cockpits and wheel wells... and interesting subjects.
Keep up the good work.
Nice plane good work. Love the Navy planes in blue.
Thanks for watching!
Very smart......thats a nice little 'Sea Sabre' 👏🏻👍🏻👌🏻
Thanks! Thank you for watching!
Nice one!
I'm decalling up my Sword Lightning right now, and can only echo your findings. I will say, compared to the Airfix Lightning the Sword requires (probably) a bit more modelling to make but the results are so much less heavy handed, plus in the UK the kit is about 30% cheaper inc resin/Eduard PE/masks.
I too will be exploring more of their catalogue.
Awesome! I need to add a lightning to my collection!
Good work on this. Love the color and detail work!
Thank you! Cheers!
Wow really nice clean build on your Fury and a Sword kit no less. I enjoy your narratives and the way you do your videos as well as the final results, just subscribed! 👍
Thank you for watching and I appreciate the sub, this was a fun build and I think I’ll do it again with the included decals!
Just found the channel. Love the subject (1/72 is my fave scale too) and subscribed. Gonna go thru and watch a bunch more of your vids... great stuff!
Very glad to have you! Thanks for the sub!
Lovely looking finished result 👌🏻 and another great video 🎉
Thank you my friend!
watching the Jolly Rogers collection videos with the complete decal set with great envy (I plan on doing a 1:48 Golden Dragons lineage at some point and I'm gonna have to learn how to make my own decals for the F6F-5, F9F-8, and FJ-4B because nobody makes any sets I can find for that squadron on those specific planes, let alone complete sets for the entire lineage)
That sounds like a cool project! I wish you luck!
That looks amazing. 🤘
Thank you!
Now I know what to look out for when I build mine.
I've got no doubt in your skill for this kit Joe!
Hey Brett, Another great build, and an enjoyable video.
Thank you for watching!
Really smart looking build!
Much appreciated!
Fantastic build, never seen a sword kit
Thanks for watching!
fantastic build !!!!
Thank you!
Nice Brett. I've got one of these kits on order for my Sundowners project (when I finally get around to starting the builds!).
Ohh, that will look so good! Can't wait for you to get started on those!
I love this build. I tried a Sword Skynight and made a total hash of it; I might just have another go; this time with thier 1/48 Meteor NF 14
That Meteor sounds like it would be interesting!
Nice build, Congrats
Thanks for watching!
Wonderful model !, Great !
Thank you!
Damn! Beautiful build Hammerhead. Until now I never knew I needed a Fury 😂
Lovely job, they aren't the easiest kits to work with but this is a fantastic result.
Subbed too.
Thanks for watching and I appreciate the Sub! I didn't know until after building this that I want to build more!
Looks great 🏆
Thank you!
Very impressive👍👍
Thanks!
Very nice job
Thank you!
Nice work on a tiny kit! I can't imagine working with parts that small...
It does strain the eyes somewhat. Fortunately I am blessed with good vision, just praying it stays that way!
Beautiful work. I think your assumption about the painted silver is accurate, my logic is that as a Navy aircraft, and the constant battle against seawater corrosion, bare metal surfaces would be a high risk
Thank you, yeah that would make sense about the corrosion prevention!
❤ Very nice,love it.
Thank you!
Thanks for the video, another great learning experience for me. I struggle with decals and getting them to "embed". Is the Walthers prodcut effective? Looks like it from your final reveal. I need to learn more about gloss painting, then apply the decal, then embddeding and, then another coat of flat? or gloss depending on the project?
Cheers
The Walthers Solvaset is really strong, much stronger than Tamiya or Micro Sol/Set. So I usually do a small test on a decal that wont be used when I'm using it on a new kit, just to be sure. I've had times when I've applied too much and it melted the decal. But when it works it works great, most of the time I only need one application and the decals just snuggle down. Two at the most for stubborn decals, including Tamiya decals.
As for the other part of your question, my normal order of operations is:
*All your paint work
Gloss
Decals
Gloss
Panel Wash
Final coat (Matte/satin/gloss depending on the project)
Final weathering (oils and such)
Hope that helps. It works for me, may not be everyone's cup of tea though.
I'm really impressed with your close ups, especially the seat belts with the masking tape. There's a great amount of detail considering he zoom. Do you mind me asking which camera you use? I'm using a kiyo Razer presently but I'm finding it's limiting my ability to capture detail and light properly. - Jeff
Thank you very much! I just use my iPhone for all of my filming. I have an iPhone SE and film it at 1080p. I find that the iPhone handles close up stuff better than other cameras I've tried. Additionally, I have a few LED light panels that I use for lighting.
@@HammerheadModelMaking awesome thank you for taking the time to reply. I might need an iPhone??? 😎
@@modelglue Yeah, no problem! If you can find a used one, it might not be a bad idea if you're just going to use it for filming.
Very nice build 👌🏻
Thank you!
Awesome!👌
Thank you!
Ficou perfeito! Parabéns! 😀💯💢👍
Thank you!
I really like your aircraft and whatnot choose to do. One thing with a blue is that the base or primer should be a lighter color than black. It's just too dark. Especially in 72nd scale. Just my 2 cents. Either way. It's enjoyable.
Good time, I will give that try some time! Thanks for watching!
Bravo! as usually
Thank you, much appreciated!
Just rewatching this build, great job as always. Can i ask what sort of thinning ratios you are using for your tamiya paints? yours just seemed to go on so effortlessly and quick. Also do the Vallejo metal colours need any thinning to get then to flow well? i can never seem to get a consistent 'good' ratio with their standard air metallics, so ive been thinking about get some of the metal colours as they just seem to work well in everything ive seen them used in
With Tamiya paints I usually start around 15-20% thinner and adjust as needed, and Make sure you are using the X-20 thinner, that stuff does wonders, in fact, I've started using that to thin all of my acrylic paints and its great.
As for the Vallejo metal colors I've generally found them to be airbrush ready and don't need any thinning, and usually spray them around 15-20 psi.
@@HammerheadModelMaking Thank you for the info, i will try this wheni m airbrushing next. Currently making up a Hobbyboss 1/72 SU-47 Berkut so i will definitely try these ratio's when putting the black main body colour down. Thanks again, really enjoy your videos
@@CYPRUS008044 You're welcome!
As always very nice build. Is your Iwata Eclipse 0.35 or 0.5?
Much appreciated, my Eclipse has a .5 needle.
Very nice build. I too am a Jolly Roger builder collector. Which Squadron flew the Jolly Roger with the Fury? Was it VF-61? I would l ask because I would like to find some 1/48 scale Jolly Roger decals for a 1/48 FJ-3.
Yes, it was VF-61. The only real information I have is that they were attached to USS Lake Champlain, June 1955. However, I cannot verify this 100%, although I do not have any reason to doubt this is inaccurate.
@@HammerheadModelMaking thanks buddy!
Another very nice build, my favourite so far was the f8f.
PS how did you manage to get through not one but two Tamiya extra thin cement 40ml bottles 😮?
Because I am usually working on more than one project at once, and there was actually a significant pause about halfway through this build where I worked on a commission project. So, that would explain the glue!
I am watching you spray, and because i have the same airbrush, only gravity feed...with how much pressure do you paint vallejos?? (i can't paint these colors with the same skill as i paint tamiya and gunze)..i mean the airbrush needle is way back...like clogging colors??
I tend to spray the Vallejo paints around 20-25 PSI. I know thats usually pretty high, but I find that they work pretty well.
@@HammerheadModelMaking great thanks! maybe that is the secret, that is why i asked. If you want, try to dilute them with the Vallejo airbrush cleaner, maybe they will be sprayed better, you can let us know in the next video if it worked better
I'm new at model building, and I have been watching your channel for a couple of weeks now. I have mostly been doing model cars and trucks but after watching you I want to do a plane, out of the box are all plane models tail sitters? I'm in my 60s and I did do a A10 Warthog way back in my 20s and I can't remember if it was a tail sitter.
So, not all planes will be tail sitters, obviously the tail draggers don't have this issue, but aircraft with conventional landing gear are prone to being tail sitters. I've found that if you are doing a modern jet, they typically don't have any balance issues, but earlier jets and many multi engine ww2 aircraft can suffer from this problem, the trouble is, its hard to tell which ones will be tail sitters until you get it put together, so I've just gotten in the habit of adding weight "just in case".
Thank you, I just wanted to try my hand at building a plane and I love the wwii planes.
Nice but I'd like you to do bigger scales. 1/32 or is that a time restrain too far ?
Time isn't the issue, its where to put a 1/32 aircraft when its done. Although, that being said, HK models just released a 1/32 A-20 and I'm REALLY tempted to get it.
👍👍👍
Thanks!
I liked everything about this video except the Intro music. Lose that, and I'd probably subscribe. But you got a "like" anyway.
Thanks for the like, I've definitely learned to turn the volume down on my intro in my more recent videos, but I'm kind of fond of the music and will probably keep it.
Uncle hammerhead modeling that is a nice looking f-86 when are you going to build more 1/35 armor?
Thanks! I have an M-60 build and an M1A1 build planned, but I need to work through some commissions that all happen to be aircraft, but they are coming! Oh, and also a US T34 Heavy tank in a "What If" diorama.
The later swept wing FJ Furies looked much like the F-86, but the F-86 in fact had its origin as an Air Force-adapted development of the Navy's Fury, rather than the FJ being a navalised F-86. The silvery stuff on the leading edges was a corrosion control agent called Corogard (tailspintopics.blogspot.com/2012/01/corogard.html ). Tailspin Topics is a great site to check before embarking on any historic U.S. Navy modelling project if you're striving for accuracy.
Wow, I had no clue that the Fury came before the Saber, thats really interesting! I'll be sure to check out that website, thank you for sharing!