Thanks! This video was the exact issue I was having. After putting it back together it started overheating and shutting off with 3 blinking red light and I was just going to give up but I realized the filter grates were literally blocked with dust that was hard to see. I washed it under water with soap and was able to see right through it again. It’s now working perfectly fine for the cost of a thermal fuse. Thanks!!
I have the same problem. changed fuse, put it back together but it keeps shutting off and 3 red lights are blinking. I don't put on the filter when I test the dryer. what do you think? what went wrong?
@ThriftyToolShed do you know where I can buy the thermistor. I broken the wire accidentally when I took out the parts. I tried to reconnect both wires but it deems not working properly.
Hello..thanks for your video. Ive replaced the thermal fuses and it seems that the bi-metallic thermal switch is broken. Can these be replaced as they seem to be rivetted on..
I have not seen these available at this time. One of the only options may be buying another one for parts or broken, and hopefully, it's got a good heating element and bimetallic strip. The only other option is an aftermarket head for these on eBay, but I don't know how good of quality they are.
Thanks for taking the time to show the process. I just replaced a thermofuse that was blown re assembled, worked for about 1 minute i feel like overheat and it blow the older thermofuse . What do you think that can cause that? No air restrictions since I cleaned everything
I have mostly seen the air flow restriction being an issue which you mentioned has been checked. I would have to lean towards the heater control circuit. I have not seen the triac short that controls the heater, but I guess it's a possiblity and maybe even the thermistor reading incorrectly? I have had the thermistor come unplugged, but that causes an error and shuts down. That is all I would know to check if you have already made sure that the housing is together correctly and the back cover is properly in place to make sure all air flow is directed across the element. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks again. I think you nailed. I tested without the back cover and the whole housing/filter. After putting a new thermal fuse and assembled all the parts together it seems to work fine. THANK YOU
Great videos! Is there a definitive way to tell if the motor is faulty? When I turn on the hair dryer, 2 white lights and one red light come on for 3 seconds and then all turn off. Nothing else is happening. Not sure where to start diagnosing the issue. Please help if you can. Thanks
It is really hard to tell without another motor to plug in to see really. I have not had one go bad myself to know definitively. I have seen one act similar and it was a bad diode on the power supply on the board. I fixed it in the HD01 repair #2 video. That is as close to this issue that I have seen.
HS01 similar schematic.. now gfci doesn’t give me the neutral side but I do have hot side, can I cut gfci board and plug in straight with a normal plug then just replace with a Gfci plug ??
Typically the thermal fuse stops all the hair dryer functions. Most likely a board issue. I do share the basic wiring for the HD01 on the repair video the best I could detail it that can help with the element, high temp switch and thermal fuses wiring if needed. Power getting to board etc. The board itself I have done some troubleshooting like on my Dyson HD01 repair #2 video, but I have no schematics for that.
Hi there. I found the problem on my dyson hair dryer. the fuse is damaged. I changed a new one by following your instructions. I damaged the NTC wires and I put them back together. Before The dryer was shut off completely and It could not be turned on. After I changed the thermal fuse, it can be turned on but it only last for a second, then it is shut off and the 3 red lights are blinking. what went wrong?
Hi, I saw your videos, very interesting, can I ask something? I have a Dyson HD 01 that no longer produces hot air, can you tell me what the problem could be and if there is a video that shows me how to fix it, thank you, have a good evening.
I have shared the 3 repair videos of ones I have worked on and even share a basic detail wiring diagram that I have put together with my little bit of experience. I have not worked on any other than shared on video. I have helped all I possibly can at this time. Best of luck to ya!
I bought the crimps connectors from the posted link to Amazon, but they were too small in diameter to fit both leads in them. Still great video though.
Great videos, very informative and worth a subscribe. I've been thinking about trying to repair one just cause it's interesting! Would a blown thermal fuse be a cause for no power at all or would it power on, but not power the heating element?
Typically no power at all when the thermal fuses are blown. I shared a wiring drawing in the video to show the power going in and through the thermal and back to the board for power. Hope it helps!
Thanks for your comment. I only have links for the items I replaced in the video like the thermal fuse. They are in the video description. I don't know exactly which thermistor it is, but I believe I shared the value of it at room temp.to get an idea of the range.
I had this same issue and replacing the first thermal fuse fixed the issue, however it immediately blew the replacement fuse after running for about 30 seconds. What should I check next to prevent this from happening?
Make sure the replacements are rated for at least 16A. Some are only 10A rated. Next I would check and make sure nothing is impeding air flow through the screen area. The other thing I can think of is that the thermistor is bad and reading is lower in temperature so the heat is getting hotter than expected. Other than that the triac in the heater control could possibly be shorted.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks a ton for your help! It was a 15A fuse and it was running partially assembled without the screen in place, so I will check the thermistor next. Cheers!
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair as we learn together. I don't have a lot of time left. I hope you can find someone you know that likes to tinker and hopefully after watching the video can help you out. I wish you the best of luck with yours and God Bless!
The most basic test is if it measures around 100K ohms at around room temp. I showed that reading on the schematic shared in the video as well. That is the only test I have ever had to do myself and simply make sure when you warm it up the reading goes down and when you cool it back off it goes back up while doing this test.
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you for quick reply, so I have checked the thermistor and it turned out just fine and I’m thinking I’m about to ran out of solutions here. Basically my machine turn on for half a second then turn off with 3 red lights blinking. I have checked the thermistor, 2 fuses on the heating element and the fan, all of them are fine. Do you think I missed something while diagnosing the problem ? Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.
@@daveh4121 The one thing is to make sure the thermistor is making a connection in that super tiny connector on the board. It is also easy to turn and slightly unplug it while reassembly assuming it was reassembled while testing so just make sure the NTC is not coming unplugged from the board.
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks for the advice. Turn out, you are right about the connector it was loose the whole time. Now do you have any advice to secure the connection between the thermistor connector and the board ?
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair as we learn together. I don't have a lot of time left. I hope you can find someone you know that likes to tinker and hopefully after watching the video can help you out. I wish you the best of luck with yours.
Wow, hard to say. It could be as simple as a fuse blown to everything blew! It could even possibly even blown the microcontroller and it would be non-repairable.
Hello my friend, I got the exact same model (but 230V) for repair in today. I checked the thermal fuses, and one of them is blown. I just bridged it (for testing) and it worked again. So I saw in the description 184C 16A, is this right?
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair as we learn together. I wish you the best of luck with yours.
@@dwstudiosguitarbassanddrum6419 Yes it's in the black ring on the front. I mentioned the Thermistor in a couple videos. Most likely the disassembly video if not in this one.
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Your first video saved me on a dead motor. Now the thermal fuse went and you saved me again! THANKS!
Thanks! This video was the exact issue I was having. After putting it back together it started overheating and shutting off with 3 blinking red light and I was just going to give up but I realized the filter grates were literally blocked with dust that was hard to see. I washed it under water with soap and was able to see right through it again. It’s now working perfectly fine for the cost of a thermal fuse. Thanks!!
I have the same problem. changed fuse, put it back together but it keeps shutting off and 3 red lights are blinking. I don't put on the filter when I test the dryer. what do you think? what went wrong?
I would check the thermistor where it plugs into the board.
@ThriftyToolShed do you know where I can buy the thermistor. I broken the wire accidentally when I took out the parts. I tried to reconnect both wires but it deems not working properly.
I have not had to buy one myself. The one time I needed one I had a donor dryer to use parts from.
My wife’s had a bad thermal fears too. Thanks a lot for the help.
Glad it helped! Excellent work!
Awesome content, my dude. Thank you!
Hi, thanks for the quick response, have a good evening
You as well!
Hello..thanks for your video. Ive replaced the thermal fuses and it seems that the bi-metallic thermal switch is broken. Can these be replaced as they seem to be rivetted on..
I have not seen these available at this time. One of the only options may be buying another one for parts or broken, and hopefully, it's got a good heating element and bimetallic strip. The only other option is an aftermarket head for these on eBay, but I don't know how good of quality they are.
@ThriftyToolShed thanks, mate. Good suggestion..
Thanks for taking the time to show the process. I just replaced a thermofuse that was blown re assembled, worked for about 1 minute i feel like overheat and it blow the older thermofuse . What do you think that can cause that? No air restrictions since I cleaned everything
I have mostly seen the air flow restriction being an issue which you mentioned has been checked. I would have to lean towards the heater control circuit. I have not seen the triac short that controls the heater, but I guess it's a possiblity and maybe even the thermistor reading incorrectly? I have had the thermistor come unplugged, but that causes an error and shuts down. That is all I would know to check if you have already made sure that the housing is together correctly and the back cover is properly in place to make sure all air flow is directed across the element. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks again. I think you nailed. I tested without the back cover and the whole housing/filter. After putting a new thermal fuse and assembled all the parts together it seems to work fine. THANK YOU
Great videos! Is there a definitive way to tell if the motor is faulty? When I turn on the hair dryer, 2 white lights and one red light come on for 3 seconds and then all turn off. Nothing else is happening.
Not sure where to start diagnosing the issue. Please help if you can.
Thanks
It is really hard to tell without another motor to plug in to see really. I have not had one go bad myself to know definitively. I have seen one act similar and it was a bad diode on the power supply on the board. I fixed it in the HD01 repair #2 video. That is as close to this issue that I have seen.
HS01 similar schematic.. now gfci doesn’t give me the neutral side but I do have hot side, can I cut gfci board and plug in straight with a normal plug then just replace with a Gfci plug ??
Hi, I managed to find out a fuse was broken, are they soldered? Do you think I could just slip it out of the thing holding it?
It needs to be crimped. Soldering iron is hot and will make it open up.
i got the same model
of hair dry but recently got issue like no hot air and all other function as normal maybe because the thermal fuse broken?
Typically the thermal fuse stops all the hair dryer functions. Most likely a board issue. I do share the basic wiring for the HD01 on the repair video the best I could detail it that can help with the element, high temp switch and thermal fuses wiring if needed. Power getting to board etc. The board itself I have done some troubleshooting like on my Dyson HD01 repair #2 video, but I have no schematics for that.
Hi there. I found the problem on my dyson hair dryer. the fuse is damaged. I changed a new one by following your instructions. I damaged the NTC wires and I put them back together. Before The dryer was shut off completely and It could not be turned on. After I changed the thermal fuse, it can be turned on but it only last for a second, then it is shut off and the 3 red lights are blinking. what went wrong?
I would double check the NTC and it's connection still. That would be my first thought.
Hi, I saw your videos, very interesting, can I ask something? I have a Dyson HD 01 that no longer produces hot air, can you tell me what the problem could be and if there is a video that shows me how to fix it, thank you, have a good evening.
I have shared the 3 repair videos of ones I have worked on and even share a basic detail wiring diagram that I have put together with my little bit of experience. I have not worked on any other than shared on video. I have helped all I possibly can at this time. Best of luck to ya!
i love your channel. Thank you for sharing with us.
Thanks so much for your kind comment!
I accidentally popped off resistor R15 while servicing this hair dryer. Do you know what value it is?
I don't happen to have one apart at this time. Hopefully someone on here will see this and have one apart to look at it. Best of luck to ya!
I bought the crimps connectors from the posted link to Amazon, but they were too small in diameter to fit both leads in them. Still great video though.
Thanks for the feedback. I will double check that the product has not changed from the one I purchased!
Great videos, very informative and worth a subscribe. I've been thinking about trying to repair one just cause it's interesting! Would a blown thermal fuse be a cause for no power at all or would it power on, but not power the heating element?
Typically no power at all when the thermal fuses are blown. I shared a wiring drawing in the video to show the power going in and through the thermal and back to the board for power.
Hope it helps!
Hey perfect video. Any idea where to get buy that thermistor?
Thanks for your comment. I only have links for the items I replaced in the video like the thermal fuse. They are in the video description. I don't know exactly which thermistor it is, but I believe I shared the value of it at room temp.to get an idea of the range.
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks!
I had this same issue and replacing the first thermal fuse fixed the issue, however it immediately blew the replacement fuse after running for about 30 seconds. What should I check next to prevent this from happening?
Make sure the replacements are rated for at least 16A. Some are only 10A rated. Next I would check and make sure nothing is impeding air flow through the screen area. The other thing I can think of is that the thermistor is bad and reading is lower in temperature so the heat is getting hotter than expected. Other than that the triac in the heater control could possibly be shorted.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks a ton for your help! It was a 15A fuse and it was running partially assembled without the screen in place, so I will check the thermistor next. Cheers!
I have my wife Dyson hair blower is not working. Can I send to you to fix and tell me the cost? Please advise. Thanks and God Bless!
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair as we learn together. I don't have a lot of time left. I hope you can find someone you know that likes to tinker and hopefully after watching the video can help you out. I wish you the best of luck with yours and God Bless!
Hi, can you tell me how can I check for the thermistor if it is bad or not ? I already have the machine apart.
The most basic test is if it measures around 100K ohms at around room temp. I showed that reading on the schematic shared in the video as well. That is the only test I have ever had to do myself and simply make sure when you warm it up the reading goes down and when you cool it back off it goes back up while doing this test.
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you for quick reply, so I have checked the thermistor and it turned out just fine and I’m thinking I’m about to ran out of solutions here. Basically my machine turn on for half a second then turn off with 3 red lights blinking. I have checked the thermistor, 2 fuses on the heating element and the fan, all of them are fine. Do you think I missed something while diagnosing the problem ? Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.
@@daveh4121
The one thing is to make sure the thermistor is making a connection in that super tiny connector on the board. It is also easy to turn and slightly unplug it while reassembly assuming it was reassembled while testing so just make sure the NTC is
not coming unplugged from the board.
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks for the advice. Turn out, you are right about the connector it was loose the whole time. Now do you have any advice to secure the connection between the thermistor connector and the board ?
Really the only thing I know to work is a small drop of super glue once it's fully seated which will be permanent unfortunately.
Hi! We tried to fix my Dyson blow dryer but no luck and my husband also doesn’t have all the tools to do so.
Do you do repairs if I mailed it to you?
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair as we learn together. I don't have a lot of time left. I hope you can find someone you know that likes to tinker and hopefully after watching the video can help you out. I wish you the best of luck with yours.
I plugged the hair dryer to 220VAC. Turned on for 2s and died. Can you guess what happened? Thank you
Wow, hard to say. It could be as simple as a fuse blown to everything blew! It could even possibly even blown the microcontroller and it would be non-repairable.
can I install the thermal fuse either way or has to be the same direction as the original?
Either way should be fine with thermal fuses.
Thank you for your reply
@@ThriftyToolShed
@@ThriftyToolShed I used 184 c 10A , is it ok?
@@leonzhao7919 I believe I mentioned in the video that they should be 16A rated. Similar to the ones I shared in the video description.
@ThriftyToolShed yes. You did. So the 10A is not compatible to the dyson. I should change it,right?
Hello my friend, I got the exact same model (but 230V) for repair in today. I checked the thermal fuses, and one of them is blown. I just bridged it (for testing) and it worked again. So I saw in the description 184C 16A, is this right?
I just searched and, and it seems like many are just 250V/10A. Is 10A still suitable?
That is what was in the 120V version. I would think the thermal fuse would still be the same for both.
@@ThriftyToolShed I am going to try some 16A fuse, thank you.
@@-rc-racergermany2394 184C
@@ThriftyToolShed 👍 Mine is G5A 01, (hard to read) i cant find the specific one, but G5A is 16 or 20Amps. So you are right. 184C 250V 16A
both the red and white lights flash once then I just hear a slight humming noise but no heat or air what could that be?
Not sure what that fault is exactly. Have you checked the inlet filter and even the fan to make sure that hair has not got in it?
@@ThriftyToolShed yeah i have would you be willing to look at it for me if i mail it to you?
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair as we learn together. I wish you the best of luck with yours.
Mine turns on and the motor spins up but slow for about 1 second then stops. Any idea what could cause this? Thanks
Most likely either hair in the motor or possibly the thermistor is unplugged or not reading temperature for feedback to the board.
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks! It's not hair in the motor so will look at the thermistor. Is this located in front of the heating element?
@@dwstudiosguitarbassanddrum6419
Yes it's in the black ring on the front. I mentioned the Thermistor in a couple videos. Most likely the disassembly video if not in this one.
@@ThriftyToolShed interestingly the HD03 model doesn't have one at the front. They've obviously changed the design :/