Ahumm!! So could you please explain how moving a specific volume of air from a pressure vessel that can be flexibly mounted to the top of a cylinder is "saving space"? Also, why don't you explain the structure of the baffle (that mysteriously did not get described in the sales details when I purchased mine) and how it fails. What, for example, is the baffle filled with? Could it be that green goo that is now clogging all my taps and showers? Who, exactly, will be expected to pay for all of this flushing etc?
Can the baffle get stuck on older models? I have had several that will not suck in air when trying to replenish. The only way I have found to get round this is to fit an external vessel.
Hi Andy, in that situation we would advise to drain some water off via the bottom drain point and check that there is no possibility that the water could be mixing, back feeding and the bubble being blown out. Hope that helps. Thanks, Sarah
@@BaxiBoilersUK would u advise draining ALL or SOME of the water out of the cylinder??? i presume that the water level in the cylinder needs to be lower than the TPRV (so air can be drawn in). my lowest hot water tap is HIGHER than the TPRV - so almost no air gets sucked in when i try to replenish the air gap!!! any advice please???
On the Megaflo the D2 from the tundish to the first bend does not look to be 300mm. Is that pipe supposed to be on a continuous fall, because after the first elbow it looks horizontal.
Hi Wayne, because the cylinder is located in a training centre, it can be used for fault finding, due to this there may be some things that are not to standard. You are correct, there should be a minimum of 300mm before the first bend on the D2 pipework and the D2 should have a continuous fall. Thanks, Sarah
Ahumm!!
So could you please explain how moving a specific volume of air from a pressure vessel that can be flexibly mounted to the top of a cylinder is "saving space"?
Also, why don't you explain the structure of the baffle (that mysteriously did not get described in the sales details when I purchased mine) and how it fails. What, for example, is the baffle filled with? Could it be that green goo that is now clogging all my taps and showers?
Who, exactly, will be expected to pay for all of this flushing etc?
How do you explain the baffles disintegrating?
Great video
I've had 3 megaflow baffles disintegrate to just a ring of plastic like a hoop. Can anyone explain why?
I know because I too cut mine open.
I've had3 megaflo floating baffles completely disintegrate to little more than a hula hoop!
Can the baffle get stuck on older models? I have had several that will not suck in air when trying to replenish. The only way I have found to get round this is to fit an external vessel.
Hi Andy, in that situation we would advise to drain some water off via the bottom drain point and check that there is no possibility that the water could be mixing, back feeding and the bubble being blown out. Hope that helps. Thanks, Sarah
@@BaxiBoilersUK would u advise draining ALL or SOME of the water out of the cylinder??? i presume that the water level in the cylinder needs to be lower than the TPRV (so air can be drawn in). my lowest hot water tap is HIGHER than the TPRV - so almost no air gets sucked in when i try to replenish the air gap!!! any advice please???
On the Megaflo the D2 from the tundish to the first bend does not look to be 300mm. Is that pipe supposed to be on a continuous fall, because after the first elbow it looks horizontal.
It’s in a training centre so the regs don’t apply mate
Hi Wayne, because the cylinder is located in a training centre, it can be used for fault finding, due to this there may be some things that are not to standard. You are correct, there should be a minimum of 300mm before the first bend on the D2 pipework and the D2 should have a continuous fall. Thanks, Sarah
Tun dish piped wrong