Fluke OneTouch Network Tester Battery Restoration Attempt
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2024
- Fluke OneTouch Network Tester Battery Restoration Attempt
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I'd say 10/100 tester is still relevant (at the right price). If the cable can't pass 10/100, it sure isn't going to pass 1G. I'd image a lot of problems can be found at the 10/100 level. Not all, but it beats a simple continuity tester.
Sure. Obviously quite useless for professional work but for a lot of fault finding in homes or less important places it really is enough to just find that one broken wire or loose connection.
@@benbaselet2026 I don't know as I'd call it useless for the professional. At the right price it's cheap enough for an assistant to have. They can do a "first run" test before the big expensive 1G tester checks things for final acceptance.
@@russellhltn1396 I don't where you are from but over here doing the work twice costs more than buying the right tool for the job you will need in the end anyways.
0:39 Setting center pin as negative should be considered as criminal action !
Was common back in the 80s and 90s, sadly...
Mega Drive 1, Super Famicom had that as well as a lot of other stuff...
Nearly all guitar effects pedals are center negative. In that world, the opposite is taboo...
All phone equipment (cordless phones) was center negative.
My Resmed CPAP device (S8 Autoset Spirit) has a 12v bog-standard dc barrel input jack (as well as 100-240v ac which is how I normally power it).
Being an esoteric (expensive) medical device and me being cautious (i.e. a pessimist) I checked continuity between the dc input jack against the diagnostic port. This indicated that the dc socket CENTER PIN is connected to 'GROUND' of diagnostic port !
Cautiously powering up confirmed center negative.
Wonder what would have happened if I had tried center positive without checking.
@@leybraith3561 I run things like this on a variable supply and set the current limit way down to see if it draws excessive current.
Try individually charging at say 12v and zap them briefly but multiple times if the current draw is high. This will usually breakdown any dendrite formation in the cells which causes high self discharge in older NiCd cells, be careful as it will consume the water inside the cell and most likely vent a little, that's why the short bursts of zapping higher voltage through the cell is best. 👍 😊
You can't NOT rebuild it after this much teasing! 🙂
I have one exactly the same model and it is a pretty handy tool to diagnose network issues even when is not a 1Gb level tool. You can do a lot of tests with it. In the past it was a high end tool. I think it will be a good idea to repack the battery and give it a second life.
NiMh that old (this 1200mAh type is from mid 90s i think) are very likely to be completely rotten. It is not so much about voltage, it is the inner resistance rising up and up. Personally i use a ESR Meter, a good AA Nimh should be below 50mOhm, premium types like eneloop are below 25mOhm. If the ESR rises above 100mOhm it is time for recycling bin...
A drop of isopropyl alcohol will instantly de-bond hot glue from the surface of whatever you out it on.
This is an incredibly useful feature… no more digging it out.
It is useful ! proper 'life hack' :)
Now how to deal with the spider-web strands it leaves after you glue something?
You could probably just replace the cells in pack. You could “upgrade” it to NiMH instead of NiCD. NiMH batteries are so cheap these days it’s probably worth it. You could probably also jam 3 18650s in there with a BMS and a buck converter
6S Ni-Cd or Ni-Mh pack is worth replacing with 2S Li-ion pack (or 2S rectangular Li-pol depending on what exactly physically fits). BMS - required, boost/buck converters - not needed.
@@volodumurkalunyak4651 I thought the same. 2S with a chinese TP4056 module and diodes to drop output voltage if needed.
@@jameswest848 no. TP4056 - 1S ONLY.
Here: keep original Ni-Cd charging circutry, 2S Li-ion (or Li-pol rectangular), let BMS terminate the charging.
Replacing charging circutry with something like CN3302 (5V input) board or TP5100 (9 to 18V input) - also a valid option.
It's not worth the trouble to convert to lithium. Just put some low self discharge NiMH cells in there.
@@volodumurkalunyak4651 Yes to the TP5100.
My Resmed CPAP device (S8 Autoset Spirit manufactured in 2007) has a 12v bog-standard dc barrel input jack (as well as 100-240v ac which is how it is normally powered).
Wanted to go camping / have mains power outage backup ability.
Expensive 12v cables / adaptors available for those with deep pockets.
No markings anywhere as to dc polarity. Thought this was a bit Sus!
Nothing in instructions or on-line as to polarity. Alarm bells began ringing quietly.
Being an esoteric (expensive) medical device and me being cautious (i.e. a pessimist), I checked continuity between the dc input jack against the diagnostic port. This indicated that the dc socket CENTER PIN is connected to 'GROUND' of diagnostic port !
Cautiously hooked up big 12v Gellcell (lightly fused) with CENTER NEGATIVE and it works happily.
No diode voltage drops seen while looking for continuity so assume no bridge rectifier correcting / protecting input polarity.
Manufacturer common sense would be not to use a VERY common 12v barrel socket. Possibly backwards compatibility hassles with much older products?
Scary stuff.
NiCD batteries are a unique bunch. Their optimal storing voltage is between 0.6v - 0v flat, so leaving them empty won't kill it as it's kinda being preserved instead. Anyway what's probably happened is that there are too many crystals in the NiCD battery, causing a minor internal short or just blocking the electrical path within. To solve this, is kind of funny actually. You zap the battery with a high voltage. Yes absurd as this is, it does work and doesn't really damage the battery and actually increases it's resting voltage when fully charged. On battery university take a look at article BU-807 and BU-807a
Perhaps you could experiment and see whether it actually brings that battery pack back!
Video about how to measure the ESR of a cell. Not sure that topic has ever been covered.
11-15V Center Negative?
That looks like a SEGA Mega Drive Power Supply :D :D
So many fried regulators😂😂
Bought a bunch of broken ones and all had the same issue, used a centre positive power brick.
Cheap part, little bit of work and profit.
Always worth, with a Fluke...!!!
Just put two lipo in series. It works!
Center negative as if it was some effect pedal, eh? Not Fran-tastic at all. Hope you'll get the thing going someday.
The question is: does it test all pairs? 10/100 only uses half the cable pairs...
For old NimH batteries I usually hit them with high current (around C) for about 5-10 minutes first, keeping an eye on temperature. Then charge them at 0.25C until charged.
Time to build and use my spot welder kit to make a nice refurbish?😊
it tests all 8 pins so yes it do test gigabit even if it only says 10/100, i would say that it still worth a few hundred $$, in other words send it to me instead of throwing it in the trash.
All these NiMH packs die eventually. I just buy an after market replacement and start again. Much better if you can replace the cells but replace all at once as even if only one has gone, the others tend to follow not long after. The centre negative is a pain, it arose originally from the switch build into the socket that breaks the outer. Centre negative is dangerous when it comes to working on equipment that is grounded or in a car. It should be banned, as should those jacks that can short while being plugged in.
It would make an informative video on the correct way to rebuild a pack like that.
And also gives a chance to rewire the power input socket to centre positive.
Time to try out one of those new USB-C Decoy modules.
could always use the batteriser. :)
Replace the batteries, as its a handy meeter to keep on the shelf
Had acces to one of them back in 2003. Back then 10G was only fiber from switch to switch.
Was there a video about the centre negative pin showing where it can be of benefit in rare circumstances?
I did one once.
I'd replace the Batteries with a 2S Li-Po that would fit into the space
I mean, already 1 GBit has become too slow. Just 2 years ago i replaced everything with 10 Gbit over copper because my NAS felt slow as hell. 20 years ago that would have been an insane thought.
You could repurpose with lithium and sort that centre pin nonsense i suppose ( am guessing it don't have the original charger here ) otherwise store in the bin. 😅
I would first ensure that the device could be powered by connecting directly to a power supply and then consider wiring it for external power.
Didn't he say it powered up just on external power in the beginning of the vid?
@@Steve_Just_Stevewatched the first part again, and yes he does say that it powers up. I still look for the alternate supply.
can you switch to lithium battery
Convert to usb with a boost circuit?
Cycling the batteries sometimes worx .,.,🤪👍👍👍
That is my thought. Especially with nicd. They are extremely durable and can be brought back with under 10 cycles probably.
Just whack a 9 volt battery with a diode in series. Just to get it up and running.
Let it do CC/CV 10mA 9v for 24h
It’s pointless to try to fix old cells that have gone high internal resistance. New cells are like a buck each; just get new cells.
no way that can't be original battery
Definitely a repack
hum ??? US Price ????? $ 12,789.45 wtf ? another quality F product....
Not worth, bin it.
not on rumble
No idea why...
Nah bin it, you probably have enough dust magnets as it is...cheers.