ps. appreciate the shout out. happy to help anyone on the dust effects. I use dak dust effects and dust effects. also earth effects. sometimes mix them to alter colour. generally thin them also. can be used for rain streaks and also nice with pigments to do deposit washes and splatters
This is such a great video. Now i have a general idea of what to use for different stuff and even more importantly WHY. Since i only have tons acrylics so far there is great potential for money spending! But what i might actually do is take it slow and once my next model (last model Stug 3 was ruined just last week) reaches weathering phase i´ll buy some fitting oil paints from the store and try some filtering and pinwashing with it. And even some chipping i guess.
Thank you! You can use thinned down oils for the filter and pinwash too. Really all you need are acrylics to paint and chip and then oils for everything else. As for mud... You can use oils to help simulate built up dirt or dust with a thick wash.
Im a little late to the show but great video. The Gotrck solvent that you used was I believe at one time recalled by the Canadian government because it did not meet the packaging standards. There was no child prok cap. Did you find some more or do yiu use another product. If so what do you use instead.
So I built a old tamiya stug 3 from 1995, fixed all the gaps and have it kursk yellow, with tamiya xf60, xf88 dark yellow & dark yellow2, and xf64 red brown. Anyways, how do I make a great filter for it. Got plenty of , oils for it. But dont know how. Do I apply it in a Heavy sense?
Odorless thinner, as is used for oils, will not effect acrylic paint made for plastics. As long as the painted surface is completely you will have no issues what so ever. Stay away from turpentine, it's too strong, both in odor and effect.
Yes. Most products like enamel thinners are some kind of spirit much like turpentine, so they can cause problems. What I was taking about was a oil thinner that doesn't thin enamels, which seems odd to me.
I plan to buy a small set of oil colors for basic weathering. I can´t buy the wilder oils here somehow so i must use artist colors. What colors do you suggest for starting out? I already looked at weathering sets but the obviously have their own names.
Well depending on what colour of tank you're doing you would need different colours. But in general if you're going to be doing panel fading like this then Naples Yellow, Yellow Ochre, and Raw Umber are good for a yellow tank. Emerald Green is good for green tanks, so I would get that along with a darker green and maybe a black. For a grey tank, a light grey and light blue and dark blue would be good. I'd you're going for a dot filter technique, then you don't need as much; maybe just a white, yellow, blue, dark red, green, and a brown. That technique is a little different from this though.
Sweet, thanks! I found this assortment of 18 small oil colors which contain almost exactly what you mention. It´s only about 18€ so i gonna get this and see how i get along. Woohoo!
That's what I thought. And once I get the hang of it I can get bigger tubes or even more expensive paint. But es far as I understand, quality in oil paints has a lot to do with the amount of pigments in the paint. And since we dilute the paint so much or just du faint shades I guess that number of pigments hardly even matters.
Thank you for your fast respons. I have made a 1:72 Jagdpanzer IV recently and painted it with Vallejo acrylics, just trying to get back into modelling after a couple of years and was looking for ways to give more character to my model when I stumbled upon your videos. Great job, they're really informative.
It doesn't really matter to be honest, but usually I filter first to get a better feel of the final colour before I pick the oil paint colour to use for the pin wash.
@@Panzermeister36 thanks for quick reply! Do you usually spray varnish over base colour before applying filter? I haven't done modelling for a long time and just trying to remember. Thanks again
I was shy at first, still kind of am. I find it helps to talk to the camera as if it were a good friend, and even gesture and stuff (even if it's off camera) if that's how you talk to people.
You didn't do anything wrong, I was just giving an answer. It's okay to disagree with how I do things and its okay ti want to do things your own way; we all have our own reasons and preferences.
Because I don't buy those Mig Pigments anymore (they're way overpriced) and they do last a while. Pastels don't bind to the model as well as these products do.
ty panzerguy 36 your videos are awesome I was just saying I dnt have lots of money but this wut I do..im model cheap but get by. you can see some of my work on facebook to knw :(
Before the models get weathered, I have to say that you do some of the cleanest work I have ever seen.
ps. appreciate the shout out. happy to help anyone on the dust effects. I use dak dust effects and dust effects. also earth effects. sometimes mix them to alter colour. generally thin them also. can be used for rain streaks and also nice with pigments to do deposit washes and splatters
Thanks for the information :) I'm excited to give them a try. You do a superb job with them!
Appreciate the info. Thanks for sharing what you use to achieve those great looking kits.
No problem! After all, I make these videos to help others out!
Well done Evan. Really useful video Impartial and unbiased.
Thanks Mark :) That's what I aim for
Awesome video!!! Thanks for sharing!!! This should get someone started and a general idea of what's needed.
Thank you very much!
Thanks for the info Evan! I will definitely give those wilder weathering oils a try.
Thank you for watching :)
This is such a great video. Now i have a general idea of what to use for different stuff and even more importantly WHY. Since i only have tons acrylics so far there is great potential for money spending! But what i might actually do is take it slow and once my next model (last model Stug 3 was ruined just last week) reaches weathering phase i´ll buy some fitting oil paints from the store and try some filtering and pinwashing with it. And even some chipping i guess.
Thank you! You can use thinned down oils for the filter and pinwash too. Really all you need are acrylics to paint and chip and then oils for everything else. As for mud... You can use oils to help simulate built up dirt or dust with a thick wash.
Thanks for sharing!I received an interesting and good tips!Thanks Buddy!
Thank you :)
great video, thanks for the useful information and recommendations ;)
Thanks for another very helpful video!
Thank you :)
nice little video.... lots of good info being offered. thx for shout out....
Great video and great tips will try the oils thanks
Thanks so much. I just recently finished a StuG IV yesterday and I am very proud of hospital it came out.
That sounds great! StuGs of any kind are my favourite tanks of all :)
lol auto correct, not hospital how* They are a very versatile model!
Im a little late to the show but great video. The Gotrck solvent that you used was I believe at one time recalled by the Canadian government because it did not meet the packaging standards. There was no child prok cap. Did you find some more or do yiu use another product. If so what do you use instead.
Hey thanks! Do you have a more up to date for 2021 or are they basically still the same?
So I built a old tamiya stug 3 from 1995, fixed all the gaps and have it kursk yellow, with tamiya xf60, xf88 dark yellow & dark yellow2, and xf64 red brown. Anyways, how do I make a great filter for it. Got plenty of , oils for it. But dont know how. Do I apply it in a Heavy sense?
Odorless thinner, as is used for oils, will not effect acrylic paint made for plastics. As long as the painted surface is completely you will have no issues what so ever. Stay away from turpentine, it's too strong, both in odor and effect.
Yes. Most products like enamel thinners are some kind of spirit much like turpentine, so they can cause problems. What I was taking about was a oil thinner that doesn't thin enamels, which seems odd to me.
I plan to buy a small set of oil colors for basic weathering. I can´t buy the wilder oils here somehow so i must use artist colors. What colors do you suggest for starting out? I already looked at weathering sets but the obviously have their own names.
Well depending on what colour of tank you're doing you would need different colours. But in general if you're going to be doing panel fading like this then Naples Yellow, Yellow Ochre, and Raw Umber are good for a yellow tank. Emerald Green is good for green tanks, so I would get that along with a darker green and maybe a black. For a grey tank, a light grey and light blue and dark blue would be good. I'd you're going for a dot filter technique, then you don't need as much; maybe just a white, yellow, blue, dark red, green, and a brown. That technique is a little different from this though.
Sweet, thanks! I found this assortment of 18 small oil colors which contain almost exactly what you mention. It´s only about 18€ so i gonna get this and see how i get along. Woohoo!
That's great. Oils are usually very expensive since the tubes are so big, so a smaller set would be perfect!
That's what I thought. And once I get the hang of it I can get bigger tubes or even more expensive paint. But es far as I understand, quality in oil paints has a lot to do with the amount of pigments in the paint. And since we dilute the paint so much or just du faint shades I guess that number of pigments hardly even matters.
As long as it's a decent brand and not meant for 5-year-olds then it should work out just fine :)
What makes pigments so much better than DIY dry chalk pigments?
+Chris, better static adhesion, finer powder, nicer colours, less work to make, etc.
Can these washes and filters be used over acrylic paints?
Yes I use then over unsealed acrylics all the time and never have any issue.
Thank you for your fast respons. I have made a 1:72 Jagdpanzer IV recently and painted it with Vallejo acrylics, just trying to get back into modelling after a couple of years and was looking for ways to give more character to my model when I stumbled upon your videos. Great job, they're really informative.
Thank you very much Thomas! I'm glad they're helpful!
You should come to hornet hobbies to get you weathering supplies😄
I've been there before and I like all the products they sell. I live in Ottawa but I usually come down to Toronto once or twice a year.
hey! what goes on first filter or pin wash?
It doesn't really matter to be honest, but usually I filter first to get a better feel of the final colour before I pick the oil paint colour to use for the pin wash.
@@Panzermeister36 thanks for quick reply! Do you usually spray varnish over base colour before applying filter? I haven't done modelling for a long time and just trying to remember. Thanks again
+Mantas Kvedaras I would recommend a satin or gloss varnish yes :)
any tips for a shy guy doing videos ?
I was shy at first, still kind of am. I find it helps to talk to the camera as if it were a good friend, and even gesture and stuff (even if it's off camera) if that's how you talk to people.
Kool beans I'll try it ty for the advice ps keep them videos coming
I'm sorry if I did you wrong by making a comment..ill leave your channel sorry again :(
You didn't do anything wrong, I was just giving an answer. It's okay to disagree with how I do things and its okay ti want to do things your own way; we all have our own reasons and preferences.
make your pigments why pay so much for the same thing you can make for less
Because I don't buy those Mig Pigments anymore (they're way overpriced) and they do last a while. Pastels don't bind to the model as well as these products do.
ty panzerguy 36 your videos are awesome I was just saying I dnt have lots of money but this wut I do..im model cheap but get by. you can see some of my work on facebook to knw :(