Pants Fitting: How to Lengthen Rise on Ready-to-Wear Pants
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- This week on Fit Tip Tuesday, I'm answering a question from a subscriber who needs to add to the rise of her ready-to-wear pants. In this video tutorial I'll show you two ways to add to the length of the rise. The first method involves changing the shape of the crotch curves. The second is a little more invasive because we'll be taking the inseams apart to add a gusset.
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Thanks for an excellent demonstration of both the scoop and the gusset method. If the pants have 2 pockets (ideally) or even just one pocket in the same fabric as the outside, the gusset fabric can sometimes be "stolen" from the part of the pocket that is out of sight, for a perfect fabric match. Then the pocket or pockets can be patched with some other fabric.
That's a great idea... And, you got me thinking... If you have patch pockets in the back, you can cut a piece of fabric from the actual pants under the pocket to use to make your gusset... Then patch the back leg under the patch pocket ...No one will ever know! Thanks for watching
Grea❤t technique! I found fabric by removing a cargo pocket that I never used. It works just fine. Thanks for the lesson.
That's a great idea to get fabric from an unused pocket... I just brought my daughter to my friend's tailor shop so she can have her suit tailored into perfection for an upcoming job interview... She is going to take the fabric she cuts off the legs when she hems them to make small gussets at the side seams to let out the waist and high hip through the slash pocket area. (I was so happy that she came up with that idea to relax the fit of the pants.) ...Technically, I could have adjusted my daughter's suit myself, but I didn't have the "strength" to take off the sleeves to shorten them because the wrist end had a vent and buttons. I decided it would be a good idea to let the Master do it!! Thanks for watching
That's what I wanted to know! A gusset!
Happy this helps!
Your explanation makes sense. I was about to place the gusset 90 degrees off.
Happy to hear... Thanks for watching
Been trying to figure out how to lengthen my favorite jeans’ rise without making it tighter. This was veryyy much needed thank you!!
Glad it was helpful! and I'm so sorry for the delayed response! Thanks for sewing along with me
So timely, I just came across pants that needs this. Your knowledge of sewing is unmatched! Stay safe;)
Glad I could help! Thank you for the kind words and for watching :)
This is perfect for me... scoliosis and spinal fusion have left me with a huge waist and rise but I don't want to throw away all my pants,! Thank you for such a clear tutorial!
My pleasure, thanks for fitting along with me!
Thank you so much for your most explicit tutorial. This helped me so much to alter my jumper cause I have a big butt and needed more crotch. Keep up the good work
I'm so happy that this helped! Thanks for sewing along with me
This is one of the best examples of showing how the scoop affects the width at the side seam, great video! I hope you are well and have plenty of power, I'm looking forward to the new series.
Thank you very much! ..and thanks for watching
@J Stern Designs can you please help me with my question on inserting a gusset on ready made pants? I'm only slightly lost. Do you put the gusset across from thigh to thigh or front to back? I couldn't really tell, but it LOOKS thigh to thigh to me! Thank you SO much!
This video was clear, concise and very helpful. I am but an "accidental" seamstress, so got more serious and bought a cutting board and a wheel fabric cutter and got down to work. Luckily, I already had a curved ruler, and used it on the wedge. Following your instructions carefully, I did a beautiful job! However, I may undo it and redo it with a fabric that matches, if I ever find it. If I don't, then I'll just sit with "decorum" the way ladies used to sit in my mother's day LOL. Thank you so much for a great lesson. I am looking forward to venturing into adjusting pant patterns in future.
You're welcome!! I'm so happy to hear you had good results!
Omg! I think you have just changed my life! I used to live in jeans. Every day. Now I have an illness that causes scarring in my connective tissues which makes my err, um, crotch very irritable and sore. Using the added gusset would mean that not only would I have more room for movement, but it would also take the seam away from the most painful area!!!!!!! Thank you soooo much. #scleroderma
Oh! And I could thrift shop one pair of stretch denim jeans to fix all my others 🙏🥰👍
So happy this helps!! ...Sending you prayer for comfort!
Thank you so much. Your tutorials are very clear and I love learning sewing techniques from you! ❤️
You are so welcome! Thank you for sewing along with me!
I needed this fix for an onesie jumpsuit that I made, and the crotch turned out shorter than what I expected, so this was perfect since I still have plenty of left over fabric to use. Your videos are great, thanks.
:) Yay! So happy this helped, thanks for fitting along with me
I ALWAYS learn exactly what I need on your channel. You are a real treasure. Thank you so much for sharing your vast knowledge so we can become better garment makers and menders. ❤
:) I'm so happy to hear that!! Thank you for following along with me
Wonderful clear instructions! I really appreciated the pace at which you covered each step. Thank you. Exactly what I was looking for.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for fitting along with me
Thank you so much! Your instruction showed me how to add a gusset to my expensive jeans that I couldn't wear while riding horseback because the rise was too short.
It was easy!
Glad it helped!
Thank you soooo much!!!! Pants that are too short in the rise have always been a problem for me!!! I have a long body, short legs and slim hips, and all the waistbands end up sitting on my belly button or below and I have to keep hitching pants up as they slide down AND it looks really ugly and accentuates my long body and short legs!!! THANK YOU A THOUSAND TIMES 💖 I am now subscribed 😊😍
I'm so happy to hear that this helps you!! Thank you for joining me here on my channel!
Thank you for this clear demonstration. You're a great teacher. Glad to have discovered you. I will be tackling a gusset in some pajama pants!
I'm so happy you discovered me too... Welcome to my Channel! Good Luck with your gusset!
Thank you I was having such a hard time fixing my son's pants you were just want I needed ❤🎉
So happy this helped you! Thanks for fitting along with me :)
I have added gusset to under arm seems to loosen arm holes. That worked very well as usually we don't lift arms often in public. I never thought about doing this to the crotch. This is very smart. You are right, the tricky part is to have the fabric exactly like the pants. Otherwise the gusset will be visible when we sit down and it will look strange.
:) Yessss this works great for tight sleeve/armholes too. Somethings you can harvest fabric from the hem allowance to make a gusset that matches your pants! Thanks for watching
Ty!!! This is exactly what I was looking for!!!
So happy this helps you! Thanks for watching
Appreciate your teaching. Thank you for the instruction regarding gussets.
Thank you and thanks for following along with me!
Thank you for that. I self drafted my trousers, and I don't know where I went wrong. I definitely need to look at that again. All part of the very high learning curve. Thanks again. I find I can follow your tutorials easily.
Drafting is my favorite thing to do! I'm excited that you're tackling a pants pattern! Good Luck!!!
I've been hoarding so many pants that I love but don't quite fit right. This is awesome!
Yay Happy to Help, Sorry for the delayed response.
Brilliant tutorial! I just finished a pantsuit for my plus size kid, but was devastated to see the crotch was too snug. With your help, I can fix it with a gusset!❤ It's a Christmas present so it'll be fixed in time. Appreciate your clear instructions, thanks!
So happy to hear! Merry Christmas! & thanks for watching
So helpful!! ♥️ I shall try to add a gusset !!
So happy to hear this it helpful! Thanks for watching
Thank you for this excellent video. You explain and drmonstrate the technique exceptionally well. You are a true instructor. I feel I can actually do this.
Thank you for the kind words... and I'm so happy that this helped you! Thanks for watching
Very helpful info! Sorry I didn't watch live, but caught it this evening.
Thanks Dixie!
Thank you sooooooo much!!! You explained this PERFECTLY for me to innerstand!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me!
# replay Hi, making some jeans with “vintage style patchwork denim fabric” and made a boo boo. Gusset worked perfect finished them tonight! Thanks for your video!😉
That sounds like a very cool project!! I'm guessing the gusset blended in with the vintage style patchwork :)) Thank you for sharing and I'm so happy this helped you!!
Thank you! I love watching your videos, I learn so much ❤️
So happy to hear... Thanks for watching!
Wow! This is a great tutorial. Thank you, your instructions are very clear and helpful.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching
Thank you, this video is one I will use for a linen pant I love...if I can find the right "wedge" fabric. Hope you and your family are all safe from the storms.
Thanks! (we are safe from the storm... sending prayers down to Louisiana)
Great video….saved my linen pants. Thanks.
Great to hear! Thanks for sewing along with me!
You are a friggin life saver, lady
Happy this helped you! Thanks for watching!
I am also a tailor I like that stitching on the groin area I need to enlarge stitching more I suppose 1 inch larger so that I can feel more strechable and feel at ease when I move about sincerely I think I should buy another machine for multiple stitching thanks for your advice.
Happy this helps you! Thanks for watching
THANKS!!! This was exactly what I needed and So Clear -
So happy this helped! Thank you for fitting along with me!
perfect....thank you so much....I do alterations and often have gentlemen ask me to give them more room in the rise......thank you again!! I will certainly follow your instructions...
So glad this helps! Thank you for fitting along with me!
Thank you. 😊 Easy to follow.. I can adjust and resurrect a couple of my good shirts 👕...
You are so welcome!
Very clear and detailed explanation.
Thanks Diane!
This was SO helpful! Thank you!
Thanks so much ...and thank you for fitting along with me
Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge
My pleasure, So happy this helped you, thanks for watching
I am short and have large buttocks, so the back rise is always too short. I have been able to use the 5 inches or more of fabric that I cut off the legs, to make my gussets.
That's perfect, your gussets will be practically invisible!
I have the same problem... short, with short legs and big booty🍑
My but is also the thing that makes finding pants that fit a real challenge. This is so helpful.
Good idea, I usually need to remove up to 7 inches from length.
Thank you for a great tutorial
Glad it was helpful!
May God bless you
Thank you! and thanks for watching
Wow this was incredibly helpful. I am plus size and when the pants fit elsewhere the rise is too low and I get ugly cameltoe. I bought these very comfy black bermuda jean shorts but same problem. Now its practically gone, thank you so much I will definitely try rhis with more pants I own that dont fit perfectly!
So happy to hear this helps you!! Thank you for sharing your win!! & for watching!
Google this technique and this was what I needed. Should I measure my
Crouch length to know inches to add?
I'm so happy you found me! Yes, measure how much you need to add. If your pants slide down when you sit, you can also stitch along the back crotch curve a little deeper to make "a bigger hole" to sit in! This will also add a little length to your rise. Hope this helps. Thanks for fitting along with me
KILLED IT!! THANK YOU!!!!
So happy this helps you! Thanks for fitting along with me
Great video! Thank you!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you for showing.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you from England!
You're very welcome! Thanks for fitting along with me!
Gusset is perfect.
Thanks! and thank you for fitting along with me!
Very helpful thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for fitting along with me!
I have some rtw pants that I need to cut about 6” off of the (wide) pant legs and I would really, really like to add 3-4” in the rise (I’m large - size 4X - with a large front/lower tummy). What do you think the limit would be or how much you could add with a gusset without being seen? Bonus that I get to use the exact fabric that the pants are made of! 😂
:) Because you can use the exact fabric, I think you can safely make a gusset that is 3" wide at the center. Plus, I've seen many rtw pants that have gussets built into their original design :) Extend the points of the gusset that run down the inseams as long as you need to gradually blend them to 0.. (so you'll have to take out the inseams longer to allow room to ease the inseams back together. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
Great great tutorial.
Thanks! and thank for watching
This is so helpful! Thank you. What kind of scissors do you have-they look super sharp!
Thanks! I'm using my 10" Gingher Dress Shears.... Bigger is better!
you are brilliant!!!
Thanks so much!
Great example
Thanks so much! and thanks for watching
I have a client who is very tall. I really like what you did and the video. I have a question. His waistline pulls down in the back when he sits down, and the front (zipper area) rises. Bothe move about 2” each front , and 2” in the back. Will this help adjust any of his ready made slacks? Also, when constructing new slacks, how would I make these adjustments on a pattern? Ty for your wonderful instructions! 01.13.2023
Thanks so much! Pulling down when you sit is caused by not having enough room to sit down in... Try basting in a deeper scoop in the back crotch. I also have found that I feel like my pants slide back when the inseam is too far backward in the inner thigh. Shifting the seam forward as much as you can may help too. Thanks for fitting along with me
Luckily, the linen shorts I needed more rise in had self pockets.
I took out all the crotch seams and put the pocket there and pinned to fit. The front and back seams overlapped and between the front and back needed more room. They were a size too small but only a dollar at the thrift store.
Now they are my favorite shorts.
Probably easier if I had used your way. - Next time.
I love it that you figured out a way to make your linen shorts fit!
Hi, I've just been watching this and your crotch pattern adjustment episodes. I'm about to make myself some climbing trousers (pants) which will need more room to flex hips etc. I have a pants pattern that I like.. Would I be better adding in this gusset or using your 'rotate the wedge' front and back to give more crotch room? Then I think I would need to trim the pieces above the crotch to keep the legs to size? Basically, do what you say on the other video! It woould seem easier to add a gusset but... And for high knee climbing what actual seam to seam increase should I be thinking of?
Thanks
How about a hybrid pant?? Cut a gusset out of a stable knit that matches the woven fabric of the pants... That would offer even more movement because of the stretch :)
Great tutorial video! You are very thorough and layperson friendly! Regarding the least invasive method (creating more sitting room), will the slight increase in rise also appear on the front of the pants? I have several pairs of dress pants that have an 8.5 inch rise and I'd like to get them to a minimum of 9 inch rise so that the front of my waistcoats completely cover any shirt showing. Thanks!
Meant to write: Will the increase in rise in the front of the pants be equal to what is increased in the back? You mentioned that the front will add a bit of rise so I wasn't sure whether you meant a total a bit more than 1/2 inches back AND front, or 1/2 inches on the back, and slightly less on the front. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful! If you scoop the base of the crotch back to front, this will allow the entire waistline to rise higher (because you're digging a deeper hole!)... Hope this helps, thanks for watching
@@JSternDesigns Thank you so much!
I need to use a gusset on some capris. The rise and waist are fine. The bum and hips are just a bit too snug. I can get the fabric from shortening them. I'm trying to figure out what measurements i need for the gusset. Any suggestions?
If you take out the inseam and put your capris on, you can gauge the size of the gusset by how much the inseam spreads open. ... Try using masking tape to control the spread... when you can sit and the fabric doesn't rip off the scotch tape, that's a good amount to start with. It may be a little too much... use a long basting stitch to insert the gusset, if it feels too loose, you can take it apart and trim some of the width off...Then sew it in permanently! Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesignsthank you so much!
Fabric may be scavenged from the hem
Thank is a GREAT Tip!!! Thanks for sharing & watching!
This is great. My daughter is an Little Person and so has thick thighs along with larger bottom and nothing fits properly.
:) This will definitely help her! You can make the gusset longer so it extends past the fullness of her inner thighs to make those scrubs nice and comfy!! Thanks for watching
So I have a black and silver gray striped pair of men's morning suit pants that is cut way too high in the crotch and around to my butt. (The pants want to go inside my crack) Is this the technique I would need to give me more room? I would need to take it to a Tailor since I don't do sew myself. Would they be able to match that material with the black and silver gray stripes? Would the newly added material be obvious?
This would add length front to back... Some men's pants have very wide seam allowances up closer to the top of the back crotch seam. Maybe a tailor could use that fabric to create a gusset that would blend in very well! Good Luck and thanks for watching
Thank you!!
You're welcome!
Thank you, this is very clear! But I am wondering how to best handle this situation: I have a pair of pants where the rise is too high in the front AND too low in the back: the front digs into my stomach but the back is too low, even when standing/walking but especially when sitting. I measured and compared to pants that fit me well it is indeed the case that the front rise is longer and the back rise is shorter. It seems like with a gusset it is going to add length to both the front and back equally. Is it possible to make an asymmetrical gusset that only increases the back? Or would it be best to do the gusset and then separately decrease the front like one of your other videos?
Yes... add a gusset to lengthen the back... then try them on again... you may need to shorten the front from the waistline edge... Here's a tutorial showing how to take off the waistband and shorten the zipper to make the front rise shorter. Hope this helps! th-cam.com/video/I8iD5ekvBsg/w-d-xo.html
@@JSternDesigns Thanks! The zipper is already quite short but there is a lot of material between the bottom of the zipper and the crotch, so that's why I thought shortening on that end might be better. But regardless, I will try adding the gusset first and see what else is needed after.
Can I lengthen the rise only in the back by adding a gusset that is only half a diamond? My jeans are high enough in the front...
Yes you can :) (also great idea, thank for asking about this!)
Finding your tips and tutorials so helpful but I have a problem I never see addressed. I am a plus size, around a size 20 pant. I have very little abdominal protrusion and very round buttocks. But my hips are not wide. Pants where ready to wear or patterns always have inches too much rise in the front and inches too little rise in the back. So how do I decrease the front and increase the back on my pattern? Thanks for any help.
:) Thank you so much! I just started a new series "Body Specific Pants Fitting Adjustments"... The first one was how to adjust for a tilted waistline. I'm not sure if you're waistline also dips lower in the front or not... but you can use this method to shorten the front rise and lengthen the back rise. In your case, do not straighten the CB seam after adjusting the back leg. The more angled CB seam that results from the tilted waist adjustment will also give you more room in the back! Hope this helps & thanks for fitting along with me. th-cam.com/video/QvhocHFRPGU/w-d-xo.html
Another thing I do not understand is the first less invasive option where you are cutting it the scoop how would you do it without cutting open the seam and how would you "test the fit " before actually cutting it. Could you please to a step by step tutorial showing how this is done for less experienced sewers?
You can easily test fit the first less invasive option by sewing along the "scooped" line using the longest stitch length your sewing machine has (I usually refer to this as "basting" because it's easy to take out if it doesn't work.) Start by taking out the original seam using a seam ripper. The baste along the longer scooped line. Try your pants on and "feel" if it's better. If it is better, trim the excess fabric away from the basted line... leaving a 1/2" seam allowance. That will make it feel even better. Then permanently sew the scooped seam. :) Please let me know if this helps, Thanks!
My jeans has a back rise short and tight on my butt but the front rise is all good, can I fix that without adding fabric?
I can't think of a way to increase the rise in the back without adding fabric... If you don't tuck in your shirt, you could take off the waistband in the back and add fabric to the top of the back yoke, blending to 0 at the side seams...Then put the waistband back on. If you have a pair of jeans that you can salvage to get some similar denim it would not be super noticeable. Hope this helps!
Great video, but I have a dire question...Are the long points of the gusset going from thigh to thigh? Or front to back? The pants didn't seem to be held up by the waist front to back so I could tell. My sons uniform pants are causing him pain in the inseam from being too tight. He cant get replacements and its killing him. The scoop just isn't enough to make it deep enough!
The longer points are running down the inseam... The shorter points are front to back lengthening the crotch. If the crotch length is ok, you can create a shape that has less "short points" at the crotch .... more like a strip of fabric with straight sides in the middle and then blend to a point on either end along the inseam. Let me know if this makes sense! Thanks Jen
Just wanted to know how to increase d fork in a pant with zip
:) If you're referring to increasing the crotch points, this effectively does that!
Can the crotch be let out in Levis? A gusset would look awful, since the seams have topstitching, but I don't think think there's any extra fabric to let out... I do have some matching denim pieces if you can think of a creative solution. I'd be taking them to a tailor, not trying to do it myself, but I want to go prepared (or forget it if it just can't be done).
That's tricky!... Obviously, if you add fabric to lengthen the rise, it will be noticeable. If I were working on my own jeans, I might try cutting along the flat fell seam (the double topstitched inseam)... then create a small gusset that I would Patch to the cut edges... Instead of sewing a traditional seam to attach the gusset, I would overlap the edges and zig zag them together. This would put the gusset behind the inseam in the front, "hiding it" from view in the front... That's the result of my week long brainstorm to try to figure it out!
On the scoop image is the other leg inside the other leg?
Yes, when you scoop the seam, one leg is inside the other to make it easy to get to the seam. Thanks for fitting along with me
Good morning, I need to replace a pants zipper
That's an excellent topic! I'll add it to my list of upcoming tutorials, thanks for watching
This seems like the solution to my problem with having wide hips and long legs. Pants never seem to have the right amount of length and room overall through the butt area and then the crotch sits at about 2 inches beneath my actual crotch so it's like a bridge of fabric that gets in the way of proper movement and sitting or bending always makes pants pull down in the back right about where the waistband of the underwear start unless they are loose and baggy or very high waisted and I don't want to have to always wear such a restricted range of pants styles. It's a structural problem with most pants I have come across and I have had this problem as long as I have been wearing pants. I appreciate it when I occasionally find a pair with a significant gusset but this seems to be rare.
If pants with gussets fit you better... I would definitely add them to all your pants! Thanks for watching
How to measure the length/width of the gusset to match the crotch length needed?
That's a great question, This width is determined by how much extra vertical length you need. The length is determined by how wide you make the gusset. From the Center of the gusset you want to gradually taper to zero... so the wider the gusset, the longer the gusset. Hope this helps Thanks for fitting along with me
Could someone please explain how CUTTING AWAY fabric out of the crotch raises the rise and gives more room but then ADDING MORE fabric to Crotch also raises the rise and gives even more room. Trying to wrap my head around this. I understand hoe adding more fabric would give more room but it seems to me that cutting fabric away would give less room. 😕
That's a great question. In this example, I'm adding to the crotch points and the top of the inseams to lengthen the rise and add a little ease to the top of the inseams. Here's a tutorial showing the exact opposite, trimming away crotch points and inseam to shorten the rise. th-cam.com/video/0j4IeCDgKgg/w-d-xo.html ...It gets a little crazy when you talk about scooping the crotch curve... Trimming away from the edge of the curves actually digs a deeper hole to sit in... and lengthening the rise. (because the new scooped edge is longer than the original edge). You are right trimming does make less room somewhere else... around your body. You may need to let out the side seams to keep the hip/upper thigh area from becoming too snug. That's why I've always recommending adding a safety seam allowance along the side seam so you have room to let out if you need to. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Hey mam if stich the exatra clothe in middle of pants is it look weird
Yes, it may not work for every style of pants... or if you can't find fabric that matches closely enough, it will look a little weird... You can take out the inseams through the crotch seam and sew it back as close to the edges of the fabric as you can. This can add up to 3/4" (if you leave a 1/8" seam allowance. Just be sure they are not snug fitting... an 1/8" is not super strong, it could pull out of the pants are tight.
Can you use a gusset in inseam to increase waist size and to increase rise at the same time?
Increasing the waist and the rise are two separate adjustments ...You can insert a gusset into the side seam to increase the waist measurement... but this creates a horizontal increase. When you add a gusset to the inseam/crotch, that's a vertical increase to the rise with a little bit of a horizontal increase around your upper thigh. ..Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Would this help with stretch lines in the back of thighs.
It could... if you need more room on the back of your leg, adding a gusset will add to the ease to the top of the back leg as well as more length in the rise... Good luck!
❤
Thanks for watching!!
Would this work on men's jeans with a six inch increase thank you
You can make a wide gusset to lengthen the rise 6"... but you'll need to make it long enough to create a smooth transition back into the inseam. This will add some width to the leg along the inseam. Good Luck!
Excelente👏👏👏
Thank you!
Thanks for your video
This helped me so much 😀
You’re welcome 😊 Thank you for fitting along with me!
@@JSternDesigns you wouldn’t believe it , I have been working on scrubs for a customer
Really baggy in crotch area but too short in the back
When she squats they are down
I have done different adjustments for her
What I thought was simple adjustment has turned into bigger than Ben Hur ……
Craziest thing… I do a lot of bridal
But these scrubs hmmm 🤔
Hi thank you for gusset
How can you remove excess material from front of pants 👖 especially as a plus size person.
Hi Louise, sometimes you can get rid of excess fabric by shortening the front rise. Here's a tutorial for this th-cam.com/video/0j4IeCDgKgg/w-d-xo.html
@@JSternDesigns hey that looks quite easy will report to you as soon as I am finished with it. Thank you
I have another question as soon as I fix this one 🙏🏾😊
Is there a way to adjust a swayback in a ready to wear blazer? The buttocks are large so there is extra fabric at the lower back. It is horrible
If you have a CB seam, take it out from the waist down to the hem. Then you can create a horizontal seam at the back waistline by cutting from CB to side seams in both directions. Pin up the excess length at center back by pinning the cut edges together and creating a dart. Sew from CB taking out the excess length and gradually blend back to ) when you get to the side seam. Make sure to take out an equal amount on the left and right sides. Then sew the CB seam back up. Let me know if this helps! Thanks Jen
Doesn't this then add length to front crotch...my situation is that the front needs shortening (ca. 2") and back needs an addition(ca 1")
You can trim off 2" from the front and add a 1" wedge to the back to lengthen it. Draft the shape shown in the video and cut in down the middle so you have a triangle shape... sew peaked triangle shape to the back inseam and the straight part to the front inseams. Does that make sense?
What is "rise"?
Rise refers to the vertical length of the front and back crotch seams. So for example, if the front of your pants pull or dip at CF, chances are you need to add length to let it relax and fit properly. Hope that helps, thanks for watching
Problem is that when you do this, you wind up with jodhpurs as the pants are raised up and guaranteed you will not be happy with the new look. Yes, you get the waist up higher, but the puffy sides you get at the hips is not attractive looking at all! It happens even if you do just a little bit of a rise, although that is better than doing a more dramatic rise.
Yes Mary, It's true that if you add to the rise, the larger width of the pant will be a little higher. Good News, the jodhpurs look is really easy to fix... just take in the side seams where it's "puffy". Thanks for pointing this out, I should have included this info in the tutorial.