Great video thanks. Couldn't have done it without you. The 'hidden' bolt was M10 not M12; at least on mine it was. If they all break in the same place through work hardening, ther's no point in painting. Thanks again.
Mine has just snapped so thanks for this. I've not got anywhere level or a trolley jack to support the door so not taking the risk of damaging the door - off to the garage (sadly) with a part purchased from the internet! Great tips and tricks though.
Finally got around to fitting my door hinge thanks to your video..my door gaps are good all the way around but the door is stiff to open, it seems to be pushing in at the top of the door (near the pillar) and pulling out at the bottom..is there any adjustment for this do you know? Cheers
I have not had the need to move the top hinge so cannot comment, but believe the door is adjustable in all directions by loosening pairs of bolts either on the body or the door.
Hi Geoffrey, great vid thanks very much. One question, what did you do to lift the door at the end there? Is the room for adjustment on the hinge? Cheers
Just done mine but when I lock the door I struggle to open it the central locking is working. The door is in a slightly different position. Should I adjust the striker plate.
Really helpful video thanks. At 5:50 you mention the metal door stop/block, do you/anyone know what that's called or have the part number? Thank you :)
I disconnected the earth inside while the battery was connected. When I closed the door the central locking activated which means things got confused in the ECU. I discovered that instrumentation also became confused. The fuel gauge had got stuck at the level it was at when the job was done. What I did to remedy this situation was the old " turn it off and reboot" Disconnect one cable from the vehicle battery (key turned off, wait a few seconds and touch the the loose cable to the other cable this will reset everything. Beware if you have a radio, it may require a code. When you reconnect the loose cable to the battery there may be a spark, dont let this worry you, but be prepared for it. After the initial connection it will not spark any more. All your clocks, trip meter, windows etc will also be reset. This does not effect settings in the ECU set by VSCD Auto windows settings can be reset by rolling the window down, roll it back up but keep the button depressd in the up position when it reaches the top. Release the switch and again depress it to go UP and hold for 4 seconds. Your auto windows should now work. Another trick with the key fob. when locking the vehicle with windows open, hold the lock button on your key fob, all windows close. Unlock the vehicle with key fob, release, then press and hold the unlock button, windows will open.
Great vid mate there is not a lot on here about transporter hinges, if my door has dropped does this mean the hinge has gone or can I adjust it? many thanks
Best thing to do is get a strong chap to lift and release the door at the catch end while you look for play in the hinge. You could adjust the hinge even with a little play by loosening the 2 bolts that enter the pillar( inside and outside) If play is at top hinge you could still adjust but observe door gaps. I cannot comment on replacing or adjusting the top hinge yet.
Front doors? 1st get hold of the door while it is open wide, and lift. Get someone to look and see if there is play in the hinge. If it is bad, you may want to consider a new one. There is potential for setting the door higher, loosen the lower hinge bolts as shown and then gently nip up one bolt, lift the door with a jack as shown (with door nearly closed position as pos. The idea of the gently nipped bolt is to allow the hinge to move but not be loose. Find a position you are happy with door gaps and tighten fully. Be sure to put something soft between the door and the jack. Be sure the door and NOT the whole van is jacking up.
I used a blank rubber grommet inside the remains of the plastic grommet. I save all my old grommets and a visit to a breakers may work, tell them that’s what you want’, just get as many as you can along with stuff like hose clips, screws’ clips etc.
The hinge it self is a forged item which means it is hammered or compressed while yellow to red hot. Most likely fails are the detent and spring, as well as wear on the pin. It is unlikely for the hinge itself to break, even in an accident. Fails are rectified by replacement of the complete unit as the spring is crimped in during the forging process. You are more likely to bend the body or door before you break the hinge.
Great video thanks. Couldn't have done it without you. The 'hidden' bolt was M10 not M12; at least on mine it was. If they all break in the same place through work hardening, ther's no point in painting. Thanks again.
My hinge is making that horrible clunking sound after being forced forward by the wind Great video Thanks
Mine has just snapped so thanks for this. I've not got anywhere level or a trolley jack to support the door so not taking the risk of damaging the door - off to the garage (sadly) with a part purchased from the internet! Great tips and tricks though.
Great video, plan to replace mine tomorrow. Useful info on that flimsy bonnet release handle, glad I watched this 👍
Good video, nice to see the fixing locations before doing a job. Broke mine today.
Thanks for the video. I'm about to start replacing it and found the clip very useful
Great tip with the blue tac
Good video, m8. Nice to see you putting the size of spanners on there 👍
your a legend ! mine snapped yesterday in the same place, your guide looks perfect i will follow this when i get the part
Great video. Just had mine snap in the same place. I bought a replacement part from a breaker though which I might live to regret!
Great Vid. That explained the process and tools required, fiddly job but successful ..... Thanks
Great tips, your advice made the job really simple - thank you very much 👍
Very helpful video! Thanks so much for taking the time to make it, Top man.
Very helpful just done mine perfect thanks 😊
top job was going to pay some one to do this but will do myself now
Finally got around to fitting my door hinge thanks to your video..my door gaps are good all the way around but the door is stiff to open, it seems to be pushing in at the top of the door (near the pillar) and pulling out at the bottom..is there any adjustment for this do you know? Cheers
There should be adjustment if you loosen the door bolts on the hinge.
Loosen but not too much and only do one at a time or the door may drop.
I have not had the need to move the top hinge so cannot comment, but believe the door is adjustable in all directions by loosening pairs of bolts either on the body or the door.
Which bolts do you loosen off to adjust the line up of the door
Fantastic I did the job video is very
Hi Geoffrey, great vid thanks very much. One question, what did you do to lift the door at the end there? Is the room for adjustment on the hinge?
Cheers
Great video thanks for the info.
Just done mine but when I lock the door I struggle to open it the central locking is working. The door is in a slightly different position.
Should I adjust the striker plate.
Really helpful video thanks. At 5:50 you mention the metal door stop/block, do you/anyone know what that's called or have the part number? Thank you :)
Sorry
Very informative, did you replace it because of your door dropping?
No the spring that holds the door open broke. I give all hinges, rollers, catches a good squirt of lube once or twice a year. No sagging doors.
I disconnected the earth inside while the battery was connected. When I closed the door the central locking activated which means things got confused in the ECU. I discovered that instrumentation also became confused. The fuel gauge had got stuck at the level it was at when the job was done. What I did to remedy this situation was the old " turn it off and reboot" Disconnect one cable from the vehicle battery (key turned off, wait a few seconds and touch the the loose cable to the other cable this will reset everything. Beware if you have a radio, it may require a code. When you reconnect the loose cable to the battery there may be a spark, dont let this worry you, but be prepared for it. After the initial connection it will not spark any more.
All your clocks, trip meter, windows etc will also be reset. This does not effect settings in the ECU set by VSCD
Auto windows settings can be reset by rolling the window down, roll it back up but keep the button depressd in the up position when it reaches the top. Release the switch and again depress it to go UP and hold for 4 seconds. Your auto windows should now work.
Another trick with the key fob. when locking the vehicle with windows open, hold the lock button on your key fob, all windows close. Unlock the vehicle with key fob, release, then press and hold the unlock button, windows will open.
Great vid mate there is not a lot on here about transporter hinges, if my door has dropped does this mean the hinge has gone or can I adjust it? many thanks
Best thing to do is get a strong chap to lift and release the door at the catch end while you look for play in the hinge. You could adjust the hinge even with a little play by loosening the 2 bolts that enter the pillar( inside and outside) If play is at top hinge you could still adjust but observe door gaps. I cannot comment on replacing or adjusting the top hinge yet.
Ok thanks Geoffrey I will have a shot at it later 👍
@@TheOne-dc8bo how did it go? My driver door rubs the front arch at the bottom.
Oh I just added two more door rubbers and it stops it hitting the sill and doesn’t slam anymore 👍
Thanks man.
have you a y videos on lifting a T5 door about 4mm? or is there play in the holes for lifting
Front doors? 1st get hold of the door while it is open wide, and lift. Get someone to look and see if there is play in the hinge. If it is bad, you may want to consider a new one. There is potential for setting the door higher, loosen the lower hinge bolts as shown and then gently nip up one bolt, lift the door with a jack as shown (with door nearly closed position as pos. The idea of the gently nipped bolt is to allow the hinge to move but not be loose. Find a position you are happy with door gaps and tighten fully. Be sure to put something soft between the door and the jack. Be sure the door and NOT the whole van is jacking up.
Thanks, very informative video. What did you end up replacing the sealing Grommet with for access to internal torx screw? Thank you
I used a blank rubber grommet inside the remains of the plastic grommet. I save all my old grommets and a visit to a breakers may work, tell them that’s what you want’, just get as many as you can along with stuff like hose clips, screws’ clips etc.
Is it a m12 spine bit that’s used ? Or a torq bit ? Thanks
Yes I think US call it a spline, which it is. So M 12 spline. My set is called a torx set 6 point and 12 point.
@@fingimygig thanks bud 👍
My t5 needs M10 not M12
What do you need to remove hinge bolts, I tried a T50 and it was loose and T55 to big, cheers.
The Spline fitting is M10, NOT M12!!!
Very helpful
Much easier if you remove the door
My left door has no hole for the inner bolt!! Omg
In the van, or the hinge part?
In the hinge part or the van.
Use baby oil to stop rust!!!
I will certainly give that a go
Geoffrey Whellams smells good in the summer also!!
12mm spline not 12mm torx
why oh why is this part cast !!!! cast don't bend !!
The hinge it self is a forged item which means it is hammered or compressed while yellow to red hot. Most likely fails are the detent and spring, as well as wear on the pin. It is unlikely for the hinge itself to break, even in an accident. Fails are rectified by replacement of the complete unit as the spring is crimped in during the forging process. You are more likely to bend the body or door before you break the hinge.